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TH Congress, > SENATE. ( Ex. Doc. 

3d Session. j \ No. 27. 



NARRATIVE 



SECOND AECTIC EXPEDITION 



JLADE BY 



CHARLES R HALL: 

HIS VOYAGE TO REPULSE BAY, SLEDGE JOURNEYS TO THE STRAITS OF FURY 
AND HECLA AND TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. 

AND 

RESIDENCE AMONG THE ESKIMOS DURING THE YEARS 1864-'69. 



EDITED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE HON. SECRETARY OF THE NAVY, 

BY 

Prop. J. E. NOUKSE, U. S. K 



U. S. Naval Observatory, 

1879. 



WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
1879. 



APR 1"^ is:^ 

D. Ota 






v^ 



V 



LETTEE FEOM THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVT, COMMUNICATING, 
IN ANSWER TO A SENATE RESOLUTION OF FEBRUARY 0, 
1877, THE NARRATIVE OF THE SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE 
ARCTIC REGIONS, MADE BY THE LATE CAPT. C. F. HALL, 
DURING THE YEARS 18G4 TO 18G9. 



January 14, 1879. — Ordered to lie on the table aud bo printed. 



Navy Department, 
Washington, January 14, 1879. 
Sir: On the 6tli of February, 1877, the following resolution was 
adopted by the Senate, on motion of Mr. Sargent : 

Bcsolvcd, That the Secretary of the Navy fiiriiisb, throngli the Superintendent of the 
Naval Observatory, a narrative of the second expedition to the Arctic Regions, made by the late 
Capt. C. F. Hall, during the years 18G4 to 1869, said narrative to be compiled from the manuscripts 
purchased from the widow of said Hall by act of Congress approved Jainiary 23, 1874. 

The Narrative has been prepared in accordance with the resolu- 
tion, and I have the honor to transmit the same herewith, accompanied 
by a letter from Rear-Admiral John Rodgers, Superintendent of the 
Naval Observatory, dated the 11th instant, and a communication from 
Prof. J. E. Nourse, who was directed to prepare the Narrative. 
I am, very respectfully, 

R. W. THOMPSON, 

Secretary of the Navy. 
Hon. William A. Wheeler, 

Vice-President of the United States. 



U. S. Naval Observatoky, 

January 10, 1879. 

Admiral : I have the honor to submit herewith the Narrative of 
the residence of the late Capt. C. F. Hall among the Eskimos, whicli 
has been prepared for the Senate, by the orders of the Department, 
under your superintendence and advice. 

The Manuscripts of Captain Hall's explorations, purchased by 
Congress, have been found to present a mass of writing in the fonn of 
journals, note-books, and even scattered leaves, exhibiting a large 
.amount of close observation, the results of which the lamented ex- 
plorer more than once expressed his desire to arrange with his own 
hand and publish. 

In preparing the Narrative the aim has been to exercise a close 
discrimination in the selection of the material which seemed the most 
valuable chiefly in its geographical and ethnological bearings. The 
astronomical and meteorological observations, reduced from Hall's 
journal entries, are given in Appendixes I and II. Mr. R. W. D. 
Bryan, late of the Polaris Expedition, assisting in the preparation of 
the Narrative, under the orders of the Department, has rendered very 
valuable services in arrano-ino- and condensing the material found in 
the journals and in superintending the astronomical and meteorolog- 
ical reductions. Prof. C. Abbe will kindly re-examine the last 



Letter. 

named. Through the courtesy of Professor Baird, Secretary of the 
Smithsonian Institution, and of Professor White, United States Geolo- 
gist, a valuable paper on the geological collections brought by Hall 
to the United States has been furnished from the pen of Prof. B. K. 
Emerson, of Amherst College. 

The two years preceding this expedition being years of severe 
labor spent by Captain Hall in preparing for the renewal of his earlier 
work which had the same objects in view, the Narrative commences 
with this period of preparation, and is thus legitimately linked to the 
objects of Sir John Franklin's Expedition of 1845 and to the expedi- 
tions sent out for his relief. In a Preliminary Chapter the results of 
these are given in tabulated form, with maps illustrative of the general 
progress of geographical exploration secured by these expeditions. 

I have to acknowledge the courtesy shown by Sir Leopold 
McClintock and by Admiral R Collinson, R. N., in the communica- 
tions received from them ; the kindness of Miss Sophia Cracroft in 
returning two of Hall's journals which had been sent by him to Lady 
Franklin, and in the loan of a portrait of Sir John which has been repro- 
duced by the Bureau -of Engraving and Printing ; and the receipt 
through the State Department of valued statistical information col- 
lated by United States Consul McDougal, of Dundee. The assistance 
rendered to Hall by his numerous friends is named within the text, 
from his own acknowledgments. 

I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

J. E. NOURSE, 

Prof., U. S. N. 

Rear-Admiral John Rodgers, 

Superintendent. 



CONTENTS 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



OFFICIAL LETTERS. 

Letter of Hon. R. W. Tliompson, Secretary of the Navy, to tlie Vice-President U. S. 
Letter of Rear- Admiral Rodgers, Superintendent of the Naval Observatory, to the Secre- 
tary of the Navy, forwarding the Narrative. 

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. 



Page. 



Hall's three expeditions — Purchase of his manuscripts by Congress — Resolution of the 
Senate of February 6, 1877 — The three expeditions comj)ared — Connection of the 
first and of the second with the Franklin Expedition — Correspondence with Lady 
Franklin — Hall's " appeal " and lecture in 1860 — Tables of English and of Ameri- 
can explorations for the Northwest Passage and for the relief of Franklin — Bene- 
ficial results and estimated costs of these expeditious, public and private, stated in 
a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold McCliutock, R. N. — The small percentage of 
deaths — Arctic authorities, 1818-1860 XI-L 

CHAPTER I. 

PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE EXPEDITION. 

September to December, 1862. 

Hall returns from his First Expedition — Telegrai>h8 from St. John's, Newfoundland, ex- 
pressing his piu-pose of a second voyage — Writes to ilr. Griunell from Cincinnati, 
desiring to present the Frobisher relics to the English peojile — His abstract Of 
Captain DOlon's discovery of the rehcs of La Perouse's Expedition — Studies Hak- 
luyt, Purchas, and other authorities, and finds proof of the genuiueness of his 
discoveries — Reads a paper before the American Geographical Society, avowing his 
purpose of returning North in the following year — Ackuowleilgmcnt by the Royal 
Geographical Society of the receipt of the relics — Correspondence with Mr. John 
Barrow and with Captain Becher, R. N., resulting in the preparation of a new 
Arctic volume by Admiral Colliasou, R. N., for the Hakluyt Society— Hall's account 
of his discoveries read before the Royal Geographical Society, London — Their gen- 
uineness confirmed by Rac, Barrow, Markham, and Young — His abstract of the 
three expeditions of Sii- Martin Frobisher — Addenda 3-10 



" CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER 11. 

PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE VOYAGE— HALL SAILS FEOM NEW LONDON. 

December, 1862, to July, 1864. 

Hall lectures for liis personal support and that of the two Eskimos — His care of these 
people— Death of Tuk-ee-li-kee-ta — Friends gained for the Second Expedition — 
Plan of an expedition submitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grinnell and E. H. 
Chapell, of New London, Conn. — Hall's preference for a plan which would not 
include whaling — Financial difliculties — Embarrassments in forming new friend- 
ships — Determination to go out a second time, even for an absence of ten years — 
Expectation of finding new whaling-grounds — Con-espondence on this subject with 
Mr. E. H. Chapell and Professor Bache, Superintendent United States Coast Sur- 
vey — Disappointment as to assistance from the Legislature and from the New York 
Chamber of Commerce— Failure to obtain a loan of instniments from the Gov- 
ernment — Card to the public, postponing the expedition to another year — Hall 
resumes work on the "Arctic Eesearches" — Lectures before the Long Island His- 
torical Society — May, 1864, renews his appeal, indorsed by leading citizens — Loans 
of instruments— Free passage tendered by Mr. Chapell— Hospitable reception at 
New London — Sails for St. John's 23-44 

CHAPTER III. 

FEOM ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND, TO WINTER QUAETEES ON THE WELCOME. 

July 18 to October 1, 1864. 
Arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland — Departure for Hudson's Bay — Passage tlirough the 
Straits — Exciting capture of two Polar bears — The Monticello lands Hall at Depot 
Island and cruises for whales — A white man hired from the whalers — The Helen F. 
takes Hall's party toward the Wager River — Mistakes the latitude, landing them 
forty miles south— Tents set up and cache made — First meeting with the Innuits 
from Eepulse Bay— Inquiries made of them as to Franklin's Expedition— Change of 
the season— Removal of tupiks— The Innuits collect their fur di-esses- Their fre- 
quent visits to Hall's tupiks— Snow-cMfts— Wolf-tracks-Snow-partridges-Con- 
structiou of an igloo — Winter (juarters 47-76 

CHAPTER IV. 

I>;TER('0URSE with the innuits— their feasts AND HUNTS. 

October to December 31, 1864. 

Hall's ministrations to the snifering- Tlu'ir gratitude- Feasts described— Ebierbing 

ankooted — An aurora — Magnetic oljservalory erected— Sledge journey down the 

Welcome — Musk-ox hunt — A fox caught in his own trap— Customs in making 

reindeer deposits — A ))eiir shiin — Prcpiiradon of sl<ins— Hall's seal liuut--Pla.ving 



CONTENTS. Ill 

the key-low-tik — Removal to the walrns-gronuds — Ou-e-la's Innnit stories — Visit 
by tlio uativcs to the -whale-ships at Depot Island — Alleged reasons for advice 
given by the Innnits to Dr. Rae in 1854 — Discovery that a day had been lost in 
the reckoning — Presents recei ved from the whalers — Successful walrus-hunt 79-123 

CHAPTER V. 

WINTER LIFE AND JOURNEY TO THE WAGER. 

January to May, 1865. 

New Year's Day — Hall's speech — Feasting — Erilliant auroras — He visits, with the Innnits, 
the whalers at Dejiot Island — Hospitalities and amusemcuts on board — Return to 
Noo-wook — Shoo-she-ark-nook persuades some of the lunuits to abandon HaU — 
Su^iposed earthquake — New orders of the An-ge-ko — Meteorological observations 
— Want of confidence in the instruments — Experiments as to the freezing-i)oint of 
mercury — Severity of the cold — Difficulty in making records — Hall's brass tablets — 
Supplies nearly exhausted — Ebierbiug comes to the rescue — Flocks of eider-ducks 
in the Welcome — Native customs in sealing — Nu-ker-zhoo's and Ebierbing's ill- 
success — Supplies of provision, fuel, and light nearly gone — Plenty restored — The 
season moderating — Plan for survey of the Welcome — Hall's broken health — The 
tides in the river — Removal to the Wager 127-1(54 

CHAPTER VI. 

FROM THE WAGER TO FORT HOPE. 

May' to September, 18fi5. 

The thirteenth encampment made upon the Wager River — A successful sealing season — 
Hall's own x>rize — Rejoicings at the first success of a young Innnit — Customs at the 
birth of an infant — Moving from kom-mongs into tupiks — Appearance of the 
deserted village — Aurora — Journey to Repulse Bay — Refraction — Encamjiment on 
Oog-la-ri-your Island — Ou-e-la's dexterity in hunting — Game secured — The making 
of ook-gook lines — Clearing out of the ice— Appearance of the whalers in the 
Welcome — Refraction — Storm — Treatment of the dogs — The tides — Death of Shoo- 
.she-ark-nook — Mourning custo^— »Eeuewed appearance of whalers in Repulse 
Bay — Capture of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats — Encampment near Fort 
Hoi)e of Dr. Rae — Hall's notes of the rocks, stones, and sand found on the ice, com- 
pared with Parry's observations 1G7-198 



iv CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII. 

A SECOND WINTEE LIFE— PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE FIEST SLEDGE JOUENEY TO 

KING WILLIAM'S LAND. 

September, 1865, to April, 1866. 

rians for a sledge journey in the spring — Separation from the Innuits — Ebierbiug, Too- 
koo-U-too, and Ar-mou's family remain witli Hall — His interest in the deer-hnnts — 
Danger to life experienced — An aurora described by Hall as seen from his bed on 
the rocks — Largo number of deer slain — Hall's reindeer deposits — Severe gale — 
Too-koo-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her to dress like 
civilized people — Exposures on visiting the deposits — Failure to catch salmon — 
Hall's daily subsistence — He prepares skin garments — Eemoval toNow-yarn — News 
of the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts and amusements at Now-yarn — Visit to Oog-la- 
ri-your Island— Troubles with the natives— Eeconciliation and encouragements — 
Temi)erature of the winter months — Frequent axiroras — Eeadiness for a forward 
move to King William's Land 201-23.3 

CHAPTER VIII. 

FIEST ADVANCE TOWAED KING WILLIAM'S LAND— SLEDGE JOUENEY TO COL VILE 

BAY AND EETUEN. 

March 31 to May 25, 1866. 

Start for King William's Land March 31 — Hall's companions — His exposure — Walks 
behind the sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit legends of the wolf and the bear — An-koo- 
ting for Too-koo-li-too's sick infant — Uncertainty of the guides — Dr. Eae's chart 
followed — Letters sent back to the whalers — Tardiness of the natives — Eenowed 
an-koo-ting for the child — Further delays — Icing of the sleds renewed — The Sea of 
Ak-koo-lee reached on the twenty-eighth day of a journey once made by Eae in 
five days — Meeting with natives from Pelly Bay — Their accounts of Franklin's 
ships — Eelics obtained from them — Intimidation of Hall's men by these natives — 
Hall compelled to return from Colvile Bay — Leaves a deposit at Capo Wcyntou for 
his next journey — Buries Too-koo-li-too's child, '* Little King William"— Arrives at 
Beacon Hill May 23 — The Innuits agree to go back the next year 237-269 

CHAPTER IX. 

JOURNEYS AEOUND EEPULSE BAY, SUMMEE LIFE, AND THIED WINTEE. 

June, 18G6, to February, 1867. 

Conditions necessary for a new journey — Experience with the natives of Pelly Bay — 
Arrival of the tribe at E-nook-shoo-lik — Hall goes out to meet them — Eeception of 
their au-ge-ko — Their story of the white man's monument at Shar-too — The tin cup 
with paper in it which was thrown away— The skeletons by the monument — The 



CONTENTS. y 

superstitions of these people — Hall accused of bringing sickness among them — 
The hanging of the old chief and his wife by their son "to take them to the 
happy land" — Hall keeps the peace between the Pelly Bay and the Repulse Bay 
natives — Settles som« old feuds in his tupik — His sledge journeys for survey of 
the bay — Embarrassments in his work — Death of Ou-e-la's wife — Ill-treatment 
of women — Arrival of the whalers — Hall requests them to spare men from their 
crews for his next journey — His assistance to the captains — The ships decide to 
winter in the bay — Hall encamps near them iu November — Intercourse through 
the winter — The captains will not let the Innnits furnish him with dogs 273-290 

CHAPTER X. 

SLEDGE JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOGS. 

February 7 to April 1, 18(')7. 

Counter-claims on the Innnits for their dogs — Hall determines to make a sledge jonrney 
to Ig-loo-lik to purchase his own team — Leaves Ships' Harbor Islands February 7 — 
First delays — Ou-e-la loses his way — Provisions become scarce — The mouths of the 
dogs tied up to prevent their eating the harness — Am-i-toke reached, but no natives 
found — Ou-e-la accuses Hall of bringing him to starvation — Ig-loo-lik reached on 
the 27th — Purchase of dogs — Visit to Tern Island, to Parry's flag-staff^Ou-e-la puts 
a widow and her household goods on the return sled — Hall puts her off on the ice — 
Starts back with another native as driver — Ou-e-la's bad conduct on the return — 
Hall again sights the ships on the 30th of March — The captains now refuse to let 
him have the men for his journey 293-310 

CHAPTER XL 

JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON. 

Summer of 1867 and winter of 1868, 

Anxiety for the safety of the cache made iu 1866 — Hall's party sets out to vist it May 
1 — Route by Gibson's Cove, Walrus Island, and Iwillik to Christie Lake — Sails 
raised on the sleds — Snow-blindness — Miles Lake reached — Strange Inuuits seen — 
The Sea of Ak-koo-lee and Point Hargrave reached — Expedients to hurry up the 
dogs — Cape Weynton reached — The cache changed — Retiu-n to Beacon Hill — A 
week's musk-ox hunt — Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands — Native superstition — Hall's 
purchase of supplies — Capture of a walrus — The hiring of five white men — Winter 
quarters 313-327 



VI CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XII. 

JOURNEY TO THE STRAIT OF FURY AND HECLA AND TO LYON'S INLET, AND 

FOURTH WINTER. 

February, 1868, to March, 1869. 

Hall purposes to visit the uortliem part of Mellville Peninsula — Reasons for this journey 
in place of one to King William's Land — The information from the natives of 
monument and places of white men seen there since 1863 — Purchases the few 
dogs still alive among the natives — His provision-list for the journey and articles 
of barter — Loses some of his notes by the gale — Encamps on the ice near the Ooglit 
Islands — Converses with the natives — Visits Parry Bay with Koo-loo-a — Finds a 
monument — Digs in vain for the cache — Finds the remains of a tenting-place once 
occupied by white men — Discovers Grinnell Lake and Brevoort River — Visits 
Amherst Island — Returns to Tern Island — Holds further conversations with the 
natives — Receives several maps drawn by the Eskimos — ^Visits Gifford River to 
find another tenting-place — Returns to Repulse Bay — Salmon-tishing and deer- 
hunts — Mutiny of one of the five white men — Loss of life — Cajiture of a second 
whale — Journey to Lyon's Inlet — Survey — Discharge of the four white men — Hall 
dries venison and prepares pemmican in his own igloo — Plans for a new sledge 
journey to King WiUiam's Land 331-374 

CHAPTER Xni. 

FINAL JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND RETURN TO THE UNITED STATES. 
March 23, 1869, to September 26, 1869. 

Hall begins his final journey to King William's Laud — Route toward Pelly Bay the same 
with that followed in 1866 and 1867 — The cache made in 1867 reached — Safety of the 
stores — Deposit made for the return journey — Encamps on Lake Tep-suk-ju-a 
April 8 — On Augusta Isl.and, April 11 — Meets Pelly Bay natives — Peculiarities of 
the ice formation — Flying sledge trip to the igloos — Franklin relics — Hall's natives 
alarmed — Their fears (juieted — Muslc-ox hunt near Simpson's Lake — Neitchille na- 
tives met— Conversations with In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — More Franklin relics — En- 
camps on Todd's Island — Graves of Franklin's men visited near Pefier River — 
Graves on Todd's Island — Deep snow prevents further search — Unwillingness of 
the natives to remain — Return to Repulse Bay — Information from In-uook-poo-zhe- 
jook on the rout(! — Abundance of game from King William's Land to Rej)ulse 
Bay — Miisk-ox hunts — Hall's letter giving the results of this journey — Arrives at 
Repulse Bay — Plans of return to the United States — Occupations during June 
and July — Places the bone of his third whale and his musk-ox skins on the An- 
sell Gibbs — Sails for the United States — Hunts the bear and the deer at Whale 
Point — Arrives at New Bedford, September 26, 1869 — Tributes of respect — Visit to 
liis grave by the English Arctic Expedition of 1875 377-438 



CONTENTS. Vll 

CHAPTER XIV. 

ADDITIONAL NOTES— HALL'S TWO ESKIMO FEIENDS. 

Hall's two Eskimo friends — Ebierbing (Joe) and Too-koo-li-too (Hannah) — Their chil- 
dren — Joe's cousins — The inscriptions in the cemetery at Groton, Connecticut 441-448 

APPENDIXES 

I. Hall's Astronomical Observations 451-47.5 

II. Hall's Meteorological Observations 479-550 

III. Hall's Geological Collections discussed by Prof. Benj. K. Emerson, of Amherst Col- 

lege, Massachusetts 553-583 

IV. Conversations with the Innuits, 1864, 1868, and 1869 587-611 

V. Statistics furnished by U. S. Consul McDougall as to the whale fishery, and the 

manufacture of jute at Dundee, by the use of whale and seal oil 615-633 



ERRATA. 



Page 35, for (Appendix) VIII read V. 
Page 37, for (Messrs.) Poillou read Poillon. 
Page 42, for whaling brig read barque. 
P.Tge 176, for Eggers read Eggert'a. 
Pasre 297, for 80° below zero read 50. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



STEEL ENGEAVINGS. 
(Executed at the U. S. Treasury Department.) 

Portrait of Hall (1870) Frontispiece. 

Page. 
Portrait of Sir John Franklin (from an engraving loaned by Miss Cracroft, of London) .... xxviii 

WOOD ENGRAVINGS, PHOTOENGRAVINGS, AND HELIOTYPES. 

Spoon belonging to Sir John Franklin xxiii 

Miniature of Franklin xxiv 

Sii' Martin Frobisher 7 

Mr. Henry Grinnell, with autograph 26 

Mr. J. C. Breevoort, with autograph 41 

Harbor of New London 42 

Harbor of St. John's 48 

Polar Bear of Hudson's Strait 52 

Moving the Tupiks 68 

Snow-partridges 71 

Snow-knife 73 

Hall's First Igloo and Ground-plan 74 

Innuit Lamp 75 

Eskimo Sled 8.'-) 

Sek-koons (fur-scrapers) 91 

Eskimo Games (ball and cu])) 9.') 

Playing tbo Key-low-tik 96 

Key-low-tik and Kentoon 97 

Dog-skin Mittens 107 

Innuit Lance and Parts of the Same 119 

A Walrus-Hunt 121 

Walrus Head 122 

Ground-plan of Village Igloo 126 

(iiound-j)lan of Igloo of Sledge Journey I'M 

Arrowtar 13.S 



ILLUSTRATIONS. ix 

Page. 

Seal-skin Boots and Bear-skin Mittens 136 

Ebierbing going ont Sealing 154 

Innnit Harpoon-heads 169 

Ivory and Bone Combs 177 

Eskimo Dog 185 

Too-koo-li-too going out into the Storm 206 

Deer-skin Gloves 213 

Eepulse Bay Kia, and Kia Ornament 216 

Ar-too-a Drowned from his Kia 217 

Tnnuit Tight-ropes 218 

Seal-tooth Ornament for the Head 219 

Ground plan of Feasting-igloo 220 

Eskimo Sled 221 

Hall's Sketch of Now-yam Harbor 222 

The Rent Cliff 223 

Aurora Sketched by Hall 230 

Franklin Relics 258 

Franklin Relics — Spoons and Forks 259 

Bear-tooth Toggle 295 

Hall's Lamp 297 

Innuit Arrows 302 

Bono Charm, Needle-case, Knife, Saw, and Bone Fork 304 

Hall's Boat-log 324 

Snow-goggles 343 

Monument Built by White Men 344 

Sketch of Monumental Inlet 345 

Sketch of Tenting-place of White Men 352 

Scraper to Deceive the Seal 352 

Hall's Capture of a Whale 363 

Snow Village 368 

Setting out for King William's Land 378 

Seal and Deer Skin Foot-gear , 380 

Sabres. 390 

Snow-shovel 392 

Innuit Ivory Knives, Fork, and Spoon 397 

Desk from Franklin's Ship, Needle-case from King William's Land 399 

Innuit Stone Pot ; 408 

Leaf from Hall's Note-book 409 

Tablet for Covers 410 

Musk-ox Horns and Ladle made from them 412 

Horns of a Deer shot by Hall 413 

Musk-ox Hunt 414 

Hall's Grave 438 



X ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Page. 

EBkimo Joe 443 

Grotou, Connecticut 44(5 

Ou-se-goug ( Jeannie) and Kud-lup-pa-nu-ne (cousins of Joe) 4 46, 447 

Hanuali , 448 

MAPS. 

Circumpolar Map, with explorers' names in the pocket of the volume. 

Part of the Chart furnished to Franklin xxvii 

Supposed Track of Franklin xxxii 

The Eecord found by McClintock in the Cairn xxxiii 

Circumpolar Map No. II — Geographical Discoveries since 1818 xxxviii 

Frobisher's Map 15 

Hall's Voyages to Repulse Bay and return 55 

Hall's Boat Journey, 1865 179 

Hall's Boat Journey, 1836 279 

Hall's Survey of Ships' Harbor Islands 321 

Hall's Journey to Straits of Fury aud Hecla, 1868 346 

Hall's Journey to Lyon's Inlet, 1868 367 

Hall's Journey to King William's Land, 1869 386 

SKETCHES OF COAST-LINE, DRAWN BY INNUITS. 

Armou's Sketch of Coast from Fort Churchill to Lancaster Sound 225 

Ou-e-la'fi Sketch of Eepulso Bay 278 

Nood-loo's Sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet 351 

Oon-ger- Ink's Sketch of Fox Channel 354 

Oon-ger-luk's Sketch of Admiralty Inlet 3.56 

Pa-pa-tew-a's Sketch of Lyon's Inlet 364 

Papa-tew-a's Sketch of Pond's Bay. 370 

In-uook-poo-zhce-jook's Sketch of King William's Laud 398 



PRELIMINARY CHAPTER 



PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. 



ILlll's three Expeditions— Purchase of his Manuscripts by Congress — Resolution of 
THE Senate of February 6, 1877 — The three Expeditions compared — Connection 
OF THE First and of the Second with the Franklin Expedition — Correspondence 
WITH Lady Franklin — Hall's "Appeal" and Lecture in 1860 — Tables of English 
AND OF American explorations for the Northwest Passage and for the relief 
OF Franklin — Beneficial Results and estimated costs of these Expeditions, 
public and private, stated in a letter from Admiral Sir Leopold McClintock, 
R. N. — The small percentage of deaths — Arctii' Authoritiks, 1818-1860. 

The late Capt. Charles Francis Hall, commander of the North 
Polar Expedition of 187 J, United States steamship Polaris, had pre- 
viously made two voyages, or, as he has called them, "Expeditions," 
to the northern shores of America. 

The first of these embraced a period of two years and three 
months, from May 29, 1860, to September 13, 1862, furnishing the 
material for his " Arctic Researches," which he published in 1864 

The second voyage and residence among the Eskimos occupied 
the longer period of five years and three months, from June 30, 1864, 
to September 26, 1869 ; but of this he left no narrative, becoming 
absorbed immediately on his return in preparing for his third voyage, 
that of the Polaris. On board of this vessel his sudden death occurred 
November 8, 1871. 

Under the act of Congress approved June *23, 1874, the Navy 



xii Preliminary Chapter. 

Department purchased from his family, for the sum of $15,000, the 
manuscripts of his several explorations, some of which were made use 
of by the late Admiral Davis in preparing for the Department the 
widely-appreciated " Narrative of the North Polar Expedition."* The 
larger number of the manuscripts, however, have been found to belong 
to the Second Expedition, and form the basis of the Narrative now 
prepared by the orders of the Department, to meet the call of the 
Senate in the resolution adopted, on the motion of Hon. A. A. Sargent, 
February 6, 1877. 

Hall's journals and notes of the years 1864 to 1869, kept gen- 
erally with much care, present a few blanks; chiefly because an un- 
broken diary was made impossible by the privations of an ill-furnished 
Arctic life His private correspondence, courteously loaned by his 
steadfast friend, Mr. J. C. Brevoort, and by the family of the late 
Mr. Henry Grinnell, supplements in part these deficiencies. It dis- 
closes also repulses experienced while seeking assistance for this sec- 
ond voyage which must have severely schooled his energies. 

His three enterprises had a common object in geographical dis- 
covery. The Polaris voyage, however, finds its distinctive separation 
from his earlier objects in its aiming at solving the problem of the 
Pole. In this point, and in its being in the fullest sense an expedition, 
and not the itinerary of a traveler with a few native attendants, it 
claims a much higher place than the Narrative now presented. 

But the journals of the years 1864-'6U exhibit a longer experience 
by Mr. Hall in Arctic life, and consequently with the customs, traditions, 
and superstitions of the Innuits than has fallen to the lot of other Arctic 

* The third edition of this Narrative was ordered hy Congress June 7, 1878, to be on sale 
under the provisions of the act of that date. This edition is exhausted. 



Preliminary Chapter. xiii 

travelers. His Second Expedition, as distinguished from the Third, will 
also be found to be closely connected with the First and with the 
course of American and English Arctic exploration during the pre- 
ceding twenty years ; for the two voyages of 186()-'62 and of 1864-69 
were alike "Franklin Relief" Expeditions, in which Hall endeav- 
ored to complete the work begun by Lieutenant De Haven, Dr. E. K. 
Kane, of the United States Navy, and their associates, and by more 
than thirty English relief parties which had preceded them. 

Sympathy for the mysterious fate of Franklin's Expedition was 
universal. In Hall it kindled a spirit of enthusiasm which failed him 
only with his life It early became his controling idea. Through the 
nine years from May, 1850 when Secretary Preston's Instructions for 
the First Grinnell Expedition issued to Lieutenant De Haven, to the 
return of the English steamer Fox, he was steadily increasing his 
Arctic library, and devoting every spare hour to Arctic study ; and his 
notes and comments show his interest in all such returns from the 
searched region as Dr. Kae, in 1854, brought from Boothia, De Haven 
and Kane from Beechy Island, or McClintock from King William's 
Land. 

On the return of the officer last named, Hall urged that the explo- 
rations made by him and his junior officers, Hobson and Young, 
though eminently successful, still left much of value to be secured ; 
that they had been made, by necessity, in the month of May when 
the land was still covered with snow, and that interviews with the 
Eskimos had been found practicable with detached parties only. 
Hoping for further success in a more favorable season of the year, and 
believing that "as England had left the field of search, the Stars and 
Stripes should enter," he sailed from New London, Conn., in May, 



xiv Preliminary Chapter. 

1860, for the most favorable northwestern point he could reach in a 
whaler, from which point he would make his way westward with such 
Eskimo companions as he could secure. To the American Geograph- 
ical Society he had avowed his chief object to be "to determine more 
satisfactorily the fate of the one hundred and five companions of 
Franklin known to be alive at the date of the ' Record ' brought back 
by McClintock." 

Nothing seems to prove more fully the sincerity and depth of con- 
victions — at times insecurely based — than this expectation of finding ofii- 
cers or men of that party still alive. The paper found at Point Victory 
in 1 859 showed that Captain Crozier had left the ships on their aban- 
donment, with a weakened party and with the remnant of perhaps origi- 
nally ill-supplied* provisions, to find his way toward the desolate region 
of Back's or Great Fish River. The presumption in the minds of most 
men was entirely against the probability of extended life in any one of 
the survivors named in that Record. 

But all difficulties in the case were overcome or lost sight of in 
Hall's reasonings, and in his impulse to bear relief. From inquiries 
of the whalers who visited Cumberland Sound, Repulse Bay, and other 
northern localities, he learned that the experience of some who had 
lived for months a^ Eskimos with the Eskimos, had not been severe; 
and from one of Dr. Kane's party, Mr. William Hickey, he received 
assurance that when he and others of that party had so lived, they had 
recovered from all sicknesses and maintained their health. Hall con- 
cluded that some of Franklin's survivors might be still enjoying a lease 

"See Sir John Richardson's "Polar Regions," p. 1G2; Admiral Sherard Osbom's "Career of 
Franklin," pp. 76, 105, 108 ; and D. Murray Smith's "Arctic Explorations," 1877, especially for the 
quality of Goldner's provisions. The want of pemmican itself, of which Osbom speaks, would 
make the support of Crozier's party almost hopeless, compelling them to drag loads too heavy 
for their strength. 



Preliminary Chapter. xv 

of life among that not inhospitable people, and he hoped that by his 
going out and living patiently among them, he could draw out through 
faithful interpreters, the final clue to the fate of the ships, the men, and 
the records of the expedition Other reasonings leading him to believe 
that some of Franklin's party still survived were substantially these: 
that no Arctic explorer had ever understood better the necessities of a 
good supply of fresh provisions for his men than did Sir John Franklin, 
and that he made provision for such necessities. In proof of this, Hall 
had found in the official papers that a full complement of fresh provis- 
ions, preserved meats, soups, and vegetables, and ten live oxen were on 
board the Erebus and the Terror. Further, that Franklin had told Cap- 
tain Martin, of the whaler Enterprise, when o& the coast of Greenland, 
July 22, 1845, that he had provisions for five years, and, if necessary, 
could make them spin out seven; and he would lose no opportunity of 
killing game, having already organized shooting parties. There was 
every reason to believe, too, that animal life was found in abundance 
by his men on the shores of Wellington Channel, especially in the 
neighborhood of Baillie Hamilton Island, and that Franklin had sent 
hunting parties to great distances with sledges; for the tracks of these 
sledges were seen six years after by Kane, De Haven, and Ommaney 
and Osborn. Hall could say with truth that his expectations of ren- 
dering relief were based on years of careful study and examination of 
what had been written on this subject; and his appeal was plain and 
strong, " Why should not attempts be renewed again and again until 
all the facts are known?" 

These and other references to the First Voyage are here made the 
more full, because, as has been already intimated, the same idea of 



xvi Preliminary Chapter. 

"rescue" is the key to the Second also, geographical discovery being 
but a subordinate motive. Hall's first voyage had been rewarded by 
discovery, and he was thus stimulated to return to the North. But up 
to the time of his preparations for the North Polar Expedition in 1870, 
there was probably no day in which his thoughts were not upon 
Franklin's men and King William's Land ; and even then his expecta- 
tion was to resume the search on his return from the Pole. For this 
problem only he declined Lady Franklin's proposal that he should go 
out a third time for the Records of the Expedition. 

The following Letter on this subject, written on her receiving in 
1869 a newspaper account of some of Hall's Arctic work, shows her 
impartial judgment and her confidence also in his character and plans. 
In this connection it will be remembered that Lady Franklin, after 
being compelled on McClintock's return to abandon the lingering hope 
of her husband's safety, still held her thoughts on the recovery of the 
Records as the clue to the history of his last years and as establishing 
the claim that he was the discoverer of the Northwest Passage. The 
inquiries which she here makes of Hall were answered by his letter 
of a later date, and are met in full by the statements in Chapter XIH 
of this Narrative. 



[LETTER FROM LADY JANE FRANKLIN.] 



Upper Gove Lodge 

Kensington Gove, 

Ocf. 30'" 69. 
My dear Mr. Grinnell, 

I had not i-eceived. Mr Hall's report wheu I wrote to you last 
by Denis, or I should have had much more to say to you. This 
I have delayed, however, because I felt it was a moment when 
your mind must be fully occujjied not only with Mr Hall, but with 
the still nearer and more heartfelt business of overlooking all your 
dear son's relics and papers. — I wished also to hear the opinions of my 
Arctic friends on W. Hall's report ; but in this 1 have had but partial 
success, as at this season friends are disi^ersed, and very few at hand 
with whom details can be discussed. — My own impresssion is that Mr 
Hall has done his best with the means he had at his command ; but 
his statement is full of omissions and so devoid of order and dates as 
to leave much confusion and perijlexity in the mind. He makes no 
distinction between the places he visited himself, and what he saw him- 
self — and what he only heard of. What are the places he reallj' set foot 
on in K. AV. Land and the dates on which he did so ? Did he merely 
touch the Eastern shore, or did he go along the Southern coast by Cape 
Herschel, and visit the other places, where he says they finally perished ? 
I jiresume he did not visit Monti'eal Island, but his assertion (derived 
no doubt from certain Esquimaxix) is at variance with what other 
Esquimaux told D' Eae and afterwards McClintock, and with the con- 



S. Ex. 27 II 



XVlll 



Preliminary Chapter. 



elusions formed by Anderson, the Hudson Bay officer, previous to that 
period. 

1 am now supposing tliat two sets of Esquimaux gave contradic- 
tory evidence on this point, but I j)erceive it was the same man whose 
name was given by Mr Hall, who gave the contradictory information 
to the two parties. — Is this the case, or has Df Eae misunderstood him 
or Hall? 

Who was his authority for saying that the records are buried in a 
vault (that is, I suppose, a hole dug for the purpose) near Point Vic- 
tory '? Could the Esquimaux point out the exact si)ot, and, if so, can 
we believe they have not opened or rifled it? Was this question put 
to them ? — and is there reason to suppose that these documents may 
exist in part in their possession ? — Most people are of opinion that they 
took their journals with them on their march, and that even at the last 
extremity, they did not throw them away, but tried to hide them ; and 
this may have taken place all along the march. It seem s strange, if they 
were buried near Pt. Victory, that the Eecord found there and brought 
home by McOlintock, did not notice this; — especially as it was well un- 
derstood, I believe, among the officers, although not openly talked about 
(lest the information should be betrayed to the natives) that these doc- 
uments were to be buried so many yards magnetic north of the cairns 
erected. — Again it is supposed, and I believe McClintock is of that 
opinion, that these vaults" may be conjectural things, by which the 
Esquimaux explained some leveled or paved spot which had been the 
site of a magnetic Observatory or shooting station. Have the Esqui- 
maux ever been asked if they found tin cylinders, or any other con- 
trivance for holding nothing but a sheet of paper, under the cairns, and 
what they did with them, and whether they could procure any, if hand- 
somely rewarded ? If another search were instituted, it should be held 
out to them that the production of paper or books would be more hand- 
somely rewarded than anything else. 

Does not M^ Hall believe that, if the natives had found what he 
calls "the vault," they would have removed everything out of it; would 
he have given up the search had he felt convinced that anything was to 



Preliminary Chapter. xix 



be gained by pursuing it ? — This is a question tluit has been jiut to me ; 
but I think Mr Hall had not the means of supporting himself in the 
barren island, and could get no one to accoiui)any him, or not enougli 
of men ; and then the new idea of the Noith Pole took possession 
of him and seemed to him a more worthy object of ambition. — Yet, 
though lie abandoned, whether from necessity or clioice, the object he 
had held out to himself from the beginning, he is too conscientious to 
say that nothing more can be done, or that he did all that man can 
even do ; and his declaration is, in my view of things, creditable to his 
candor and truthfulness ; he almost invites others to do that in which 
he has failed himself, — and this leads me to ask (and many are asking 
the same question) wlietlier anything would induce him to go again ? 
and, if so, whether he would consent to accompany one of the bravest 
and ablest of our Arctic officers, as his Second. — 

I would ask you to ascertain from him whether he would 'postpone 
his efforts to reach the Pole, for one season (he may be quite sure there 
is no danger of any body getting there before him) and devote a whole 
summer to the recovery of the jtrecious documents on King William 
Island, and the several adjoining places on the main-land, where he 
believes the last of our poor i)eople perished. 

The emoluments or remuneration must be such as to make it worth 
his while to undertake another voyage, and should be suggested by 
himself, so that he might start with a willing mind and be able to see 
that his further movements northward would be facilitated rather than 
checked, by joining in this final Arctic search. — In fact, he and his 
two Esquimaux, if he takes them with him towards the Pole, would be 
so far forwarded on their way when the King W? search was over. 
I do not enter at present into more detail, except that such an Exi^e- 
dition would be on a manageable but sufficient scale, composed of well- 
tried, trustworthy men, whether English, American, or Canadian, i. e. 
Hudson Bay people j and, that the funds are provided and are ample 
for the purpose. To apply again for Government aid seems totally out 
of the question. Such an appeal would not be listened to for a moment, 
and it is quite certain that whatever has been hitherto effected has been 



XX 



Preliminary Chapter. 



by private means ; viz, by your Expeditions on the one band, and my 
bumble efforts on the other. 

What I have now said about engaging Mr. Hall in a last effort will 
show him that I judge of him as you do yourself; viz, that he is an able, 
fearless, trustworthy and conscientious man ; Dear Cornelius always 
maintained that he was so. It remains to be seen whether in so holy 
and noble a cause as the rescue of those precious documents from eternal 
sepulture in oblivion, Mr Hall would be willing to forego the chief com- 
mand, in order to act as a coadjutor with all that natural influence which 
his experience and zeal must give him ; sharing the dangers of his com- 
panion and sharing his glory also. 

Having said this much, I must add my request that the suggestions 
I now make through you to Mr Hall he not made public, nor find their 
way into the neicspapers, as it is a part of the plan here in England to 
keep the contemplated Expedition a secret until fully determined on and 
organized, in order to avoid all obstruction, discussions and difficulty 
making. 

I am most anxious to see Mr. Hall at this moment ; how many diffi- 
culties could be cleared, how much increased confidence inspired, if one 
could but see and talk to him ! — but how is this to be effected, for I sup- 
pose he is too busy with his book to come to England till the iniblisher's 
work is done ; — otherwise I would gladly pay all his expenses to and 
from and during his stay here. 

I am sorry to hear rumors of his having got into some trouble about 
the man whom he sacrificed. I presume he deemed it necessary, how- 
ever, for the safety of himself and others. It is an awful thing to take 
a man's life, but it has been found justifiable upon occasions Avhen the 
lives of others were endangered. Witness that act of Sir John Eichard- 
son's, which is always quoted to his honor, when, without a moment's 
warning, he shot down the half-breed hunter, who was advancing quickly 
in his strength toward himself and Hepburn, both enfeebled by starva- 
tion, in order to sacrifice and feed upon them. 

Sir Leopold McClintock is home preparing a third edition, (which 
has been called for by his publishers) of the Fox Voyage. He thinks 



Preliminary Chapter. xxi 



himself most fortunate iu anticipating the discovery by the Esquimaux 
of the traces, as he succeeded iu doing in seven distinct localities in King 
William Land. — McClintock thinks the leading article in the Tribune 
gives a fair estimate of what he has done ; in general, Hall's researches 
quite confirm those made by himself, i have come to the end of my 
second sheet, and dare not take a third. 

Tour faithful & affectionate friend 

JAKE FEANKLIN 



REPLY. 

\_Confidential, with the exception that Lady Frankliu can be informed of the substance of thi; 

letter.— C. F. H.] 

Cincinnati, Dec 14'" 18G9. 
Mr. Grinnell 

Dear Sir: 

Time and again have I taken in hand the subject matter of Lady Franklin's 
Letter, for the object of giving full answer to it ; but in vain. I can say in truth 
that ever since my arrival in the country from my return fi'om my late five years 
voyage and travels in the Arctic Eegions, 1 have not had two hours to myself in 
Avhich I could sit down and not be interrupted many times. I despair, at present, 
of getting the time to answer (as I would like) the letter referred to; for I am 
bufcily flying here and there on Lecture tours. Lecturing is a curse to my soul, 
for I am far from being that way inclined, and yet I have had to pursue it and 
am still head and ears engaged in it. Just as soon as I can get out of the uncon- 
genial business, I shall do so ; and then I do hope I can get at least suflBcient 
time to apologize to j-ou and other friends for the apparent long neglect. 

This much I must say, that, for years, I have determined to undertake an Ex- 
pedition to the North Pole so soon as I should become satisfied that there could 
be no siu:vivor of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. I expect soon toapply to Con- 
gress for aid in my purposed North Pole Expedition. In case of not securing the 
necessary aid from Congress or otherwise for that Expedition (to commence next 
spring,) I should then feel to do whatever I could to favor personally the noble 
asph-ations of Lady Franklin: parenthetically let it be said, that no one should 
ask of me to accept a subordinate position in an Arctic Expedition. If McClin- 
tock and myself be Lady Franklin's chosen ones, we could be Co-Commanders and 
nothing less. 



xxii Preliminary Chapter. 

As for pay I should ask iiotbiDg. My faithful Frank Lailer, I know, wonld 

be glad to accompany us. He will go wherever I desire, and certainly I will feel 

glad to have him with me whenever I may go to the Arctic Eegions. Joe and 

Hannah, my Esquimaux Interpreters, I tJiink, would accompany us also. They 

send love to you & family. 

Yours ever 

C. F. HALL. 

P. S. Whether I go or not on the proposed English Expedition to King W""s 
Land, I feel to do all I can in facilitating its purposes; and will, therefore, communi- 
cate such important matter as I have Required in the North, so soon as I can be 
relieved from the pressure upon my time. 

The promise involved in the last of the preceding lines was ful- 
filled at as early a date as was found practicable. On the lOtli of 
January, 1871, he forwarded to Lady Franklin two MSS., titled "Sir 
John Franklin, with notes of my voyage of 1864 to '69." The extracts 
which follow from letters accompanying this packet, will confirm what 
has been said as to his desire to go out even a third time for the 

Records : 

* * * My special respects to Miss Cracroft. I trust I shall be able to send 
you other matter relating to my King William's Land Sledge Journey, and sucli 
information as will be of use to any one who may make a Journey to King W. 
Land. * * * Why is it that I am not still following up that subject? Is it 
finished ? Can more be done in gaining intelligence of that most important of all 
Arctic Expeditions? To the first question the answer cannot be satisfactory, for 
I hardly know, myself, why I was led off from that almost holy mission to which I 
have devoted about twelve years of my life, and w^ell on to eight of these in the 
icy regions of the North. What burned within mj^ soul like a living fire all the 
time, was the full faith that I should find some survivors of Sir John's memorable 
Expedition living among the natives, and that I Avould be the instrument in the 
hand of heaven, of their salvation. But when I heard the sad tale from living wit- 
nesses in the spring of 18G9, how wickedly many survivors in the fall of 1S4S had 
been abandoned and suffered to die, my faith, till then so strong, was shaken, and 
idtimately was extinguished. As to the Eecords, I believed they had been care- 
fully buried on King William's Land before the Erebus and Terror were aban- 
doned; and, that if no survivor was found, at least those Records might be recov- 
ered. 

* * * God willing, I will nuike two more voyages to the North, — one for 



Preliminary Chapter. 



XXlll 



the discovery of the regions to and about the Pole, and the other to obtain the 
records of Sir Johti's JExpedition, and to obtain other information than what I 
already possess relating to it. Had I failed in getting my Country interested in 
fitting out an Expedition for making Polar discoveries, as I told you. I would have 
most certainly (Z>. V.) been ready for the King Win's Land Voyage. As the matter 
now stands, I have much reason to hope that the North Polar Expedition I have 
the honor to command, will accomplish its object and be back to the States in 30 
months from the time of leaving say from 1st of June next.* 

* The search for the Records has not been wholly abandoned even at this late date. The 
cruises of the Pandora (now the Jeanette, of the Polar Expedition of 1879, under command of 
Lieutenant De Long, IT. S. N.) made by Capt. Allen Young in 1875 and 1876 had this search for 
one of their objects. 

June 19, 1878, an expedition under Lieutenant Schwatka, U. S. A., was sent out firom New 
York by Morison & Brown for the same object. This expedition proposed to remain on the field 
of search later in the summer following than Hall found himself able to do in 1869. Taking with 
them Eskimo Joe as guide and interpreter, and a force of armed white men, they may possibly 
secure something of value of those Records, the recovery of which has been so long desired by 
England and by the world. Captain Barry, who took oiit Lieutenant Schwatka in the Eothen, 
had received on a previous voyage information from the Neitchille natives which jprompted the 
present expedition. He had brought home with him also a Franklin relic, the history of which is 
marked under the annexed drawing. Messrs. Morison & Brown presented it to Miss Cracroft, 
through the U. S. Naval Observatory. 




SPOON BELONGING TO SIR JOHN FRANKLIN BROUGHT FROM REPULSE BAY BY CAPT. BARRY, OF 
THE WHALER A. HOUGHTON, IN 1877, FORWARDED TO MISS SOPHIA CRACROFT, LONDON. 
THE MENDING DONE BY THE ESQUIMAUX. 



xxiv Preliminary Cliapter. 

Full evidence is thus found in Hall's papers, especially in that 
private correspondence which best discloses impulses and purposes, 
that his "Rescue and Research" was the impulse not of a humane 
feeling only, but of such feeling exercised towards those whom he con- 
sidered heroes in their objects as well as in their sufferings. It grew 
out of his thoughts of men who had been fighting nature for objects 
which had enlisted very noble minds; — enticing fiom his home a 
Franklin for the fourth time, and even in his sixtieth year. Hall's own 
desire for participation in the work of search was quickened by the 
fact that every Relief Expedition except McClintock's had erred in its 
line of search, until "the pursuit was now ended," as John Barrow 
and others wrote him, " where it should have been begun." It does 
not seem so strange, then, that he should at times have spoken of him- 
self as " called " to do something in the work of relief on which no one 
else was entering. 

To go back to his first appeal, issued for him to the citizens of 
Cincinnati in 1860, is to cite what in one form or another disclosed his 
feelings throughout the whole remainder of his life. 

The appeal read as follows : 

This is to memorialize all lovers of Man aud of Geogra- 
raphy, History, and Science to co-operate by all methods and 
means in their poAver, to facilitate and assist our fellow country- 
man, Charles Francis Hall of Cincinnati, Ohio, in the formation 
of, and fitting- out an American Expedition, in search of survivors 
of Sir John Franlvlin's Exploring party, consisting of l.JS per- 
sons, only 27 of whom are known to be dead. Secondly, for 
satisfactorily settling and comi)leting the history of the last 

Franklin Plxpcdition ; and thirdly, to promote and benefit the cause of Geogra- 

l)hy, Navigation, Natural History and Science. 




Preliminary Chapter. xxv 

Such an Expedition with proper vessels, with competent and experienced 
Commander, OiTicers and Crew, with a complete outfit and provision for from two 
to three years, cruise, to embark from an Eastern port of the United States of 
America, and proceed via. Davis Straits, Baffin's Bay, Lancaster Sound, and Bar- 
rows Strait; thence from the North coast of Boothia to commence the Search, ex- 
tending it to King William's Land, and the adjacent regions, until a thorough and 
satisfactory investigation shall have been made of all that portion of the Arctic 
World ; and the humanitarian object attained of discovering some survivor of the 
lost companions of Sir John Franklin, or of ascertaining the ultimate fate of the 
Members of that Expedition, who, uj) to this day remain unaccounted for; being- 
no less than one hundred and eleven souls, whose history, the loud voice of 
mankind, from all generous natures, demands shall not remain forever shrouded 
in oblivion, while energetic intelligence and American enterprise can hoi^e to 
rescue a single survivor, or furnish the solution of their ultimate histor3^ 

This appeal w^as indorsed by a number of the public men of Ohio, 
among whom were Hon. E. B. Hayes, the present Executive of the 
United States ; the Governor of the State, Hon. William Dennison ; 
Hon. S. P. Chase ; and the Mayor of Cincinnati, now Gov. R. M. 
Bishop. At the meeting which it secured. Hall exhibited maps and 
charts of the Arctic, discoveries made by Sir John Franklin, Dr. Kane, 
De Haven, and McClintock ; with those of Ross, Parry, Back, Dease 
and Simpson, Richardson, Rae, McClure, Kellet, Collinson, Belcher, 
and others — names which carry us back to the revival, under Sir John 
Barrow, of English exploration for the Northwest Passage to Asia. 
The study of such explorations from even a much earlier date had made 
Hall intelhgent in this field ; it now maintained his enthusiasm. 

As introductory, therefore, to the history of his purposes, and of 
his work in this Second Expedition, some Tabular Statements and 
historical Maps have been prepared, in order to present, in con- 
nection with the now renewed public interest in Arctic Exploration, 



XXVI 



Preliminary Chapter. 



The Record in brief; — 

I. Of English and American* explorations for the Northwest 
Passage from the year 1818 to 1845, when Sir John Frankhn's Expedi- 
tion left England. 

II. Of the Franklin Relief Expeditions, Enghsh and American, 
from 1848 to 1860, the year of Hall's First Expedition. 

TABLE No. I. 
1. Naval expeditions for discovering the Northwest Passage, 1818 to 1845. 



Commanders. 



Vessels. 



Positions reached north and west. 



Year. 



I. Capt. D. Buchan 

Lieut. John Franklin 



II. Commander John Ross. 
Lieut. W. E. Parry 



III. Lieut. W. E. Pany 
Lieut. M. Liddon .. 



IV. Capt. W. E. Parry. 
Capt. G. F. Lyon.. 



V. Capt. W. E. Parry 

Commander H. P. Hoppner . . 

VI. Capt. G. F. Lyon 

VII. Capt. F. W. Beechy 



VIII. Cai)t. John Ross 

Lieut. James C. Ross. 



Dorothea . 
Trent .... 



Isabella . . . 
Alexander . 

Hecla 

Griper 



Fury . 
Hecla 



Hecla . 
Fury . . . 



IX. Capt. George Back. 



Griper 



Blossom . . . 



Victory 



Terror. 



>Long. 11° W. ; lat. 80° 37' N. 



\ Lancaster Sound; long. 84 W.; ( 
^ lat. 76° 54' N. ( 

rWest coast of Melville Island;"] 
i long. 113° 48' 22" W. ; lat. } 

[ 74° 47' 19" N. J 

Whyte Inlet, Fury and Hecla ^ 

Strait; long. 84° 52' W. ; lat. }> 

i. 70° 12' N. j 

) Prince Regent's Inlet; long. 92' ) 
) 18' W. ; lat. 74° 28' 13" N. I 

) Rowe's Welcome ; long. 89° 1' ) 
I 44" W. ; lat. 65° 20' N. ( 

Bering's Straits to Point Bar- } 
row, 126 miles east of Icy Cape. C 

West coast of Prince Regent's" 
Inlet and of Boothia and north 
coast of King Willi.im's Land ; 
long. 99° W. ; lat. 70° 5' 
17" N. 



Frozen 
lat. 6i 






I Strait; long. 83°40'W. ; ) 
w° 47' N. ( 



1818 



1818-'19 



1819-'20 



18?.l-'23 



1824-'25 



1824 



1825-'28 



1829-'33 



1830-'37 



* For some curious notices of American voyages for the Passage, made in 1753, 1754, 1772, 
and possibly as early as 1639, see the close of this chajiter. 



\ 



iJTT. 



ARCTIC REGIOHS 

1845, 

'ting a ayy t^t/u Ouir* lufipUmd to Va 

Fgaa kli a. E^ptdidcm . 



-ev- 



+--^v {;M 




— 1 — ?^ 



"^^ 



^ 
■««, 



\ °'"'' 

^ 




[(•KOM' rW. NW PASSAGE AND THE SEAKCH fOH SIR JOHN KH-AM- 



Preliminary Chapter. xxvii 



(2.) EXPLORATIONS BY LAND. 

1819-1822. — Capt. John Franklin, with Dr. ,1. Eichardson, Lieutenants Back and 
Hood; land journey from York Factory, west side of Hudsou's Bay, to the 
Coppermine Eiver, and from its mouth east to Point Turnagaiu, hit. 08° 19' 
N., long. 109° 25', a distance of 550 miles. Whole journey 5,500 miles (see 
for this route Circumpolar Pocket Map). 

1825-1827. — Sir J. Franklin explored, the coast from the mouth of Mackenzie's 
Eiver westward to Eeturn Eeef, long. 148° 52', lat. 70° 20' N. ; Dr. Eich- 
ardson, of the same expedition, coasting from the mouth of the Mackenzie 
east to the mouth of the Coppermine. (Pocket Map.) 

1833. — Capt. George Back, in search of Sir John Eoss, discovered the Great Fish 
Eiver, descended it, and explored the coast eastwardly as far as long. 94° 
58' W., lat. 68° 13' N. 

1837-1839. — Messrs. Dease and Simpson, in the service of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany, explored the coast from Mackenzie Eiver westward to Point Barrow, 
and eastward from the Coppermine to Castor and Pollux Eiver, long. 93° 7' 
W. This exploration supplemented Beechey's, Franklin's, and Eichardson's 
coastings, and thus completed the examination of the coast line from 
Bering's Strait to long. 93° 7' W. 

What remained, therefore, in the problem of the Northwest Pas- 
sage was to connect Parry's furthest Westing of 113° 48' 22", made 
in 18 If^, either with Bering's Strait or southward with Simpson's 
Strait. To seek tlie passage westward to Bering's Strait from Mel- 
ville Island seemed to the Admiralty at that day a loss of time in con- 
sequence of the unusual magnitude and apparently fixed state of the 
ice which had been observed by Parry off Cape Dundas. 

But of the western entrance to Simpson's Strait, Sir John Franklin 
was accustomed to say, "If I could only get down there my Avork is 
done ; it is all plain sailing to the westward." In this buoyant hope 
he left England May 19, 1845, commanding the last expedition which 



XXVUl 



Preliminary Chapter. 



has had the discovery of the Northwest Passage as its direct object 
His latest dispatch was dated, "Whale Fish Islands, west Coast of 
Greenland, July 12, 1845." His ships were last seen July 26, of 
that year, by the whaler Prince of Wales — moored to an iceberg, lat. 
74° 48' N., long. QQ"" 13' W. 

THE EXPEDITION. 



Officers. 


Vessels. 


Positions reached North and West. 


Year. 


Capt. Sir J. Franklin, Com- 
mander J. Fitzjames, Lieut. 
G. Gore. 

Capt. F. E. M. Crozier, Lieut. 
E. Little. 


Erebus, 370 
tons, screw. 

Terror, 340 
tons, screw. 


I. Up Wellington Channel, 150 miles, ~ 

to lat. 77° N., long. 990 W. 
II. Wintered at Beochey Island, lat. 

74^ 43' 28" N., long. 91° 39' W. 
III. Thence west, and probably through ) 
Peel Souud, tolat. 70° 05' N., long. 
98° 23' W., where the ships were 
abandoned April 22, 1848 ; one of 
them drifting south. 


1845 
to 

1848 



No tidings having been received from Franklin at the close of 
nearly three years, Eelief expeditions began to be sent out from 
England. The chief of these are stated in the following tables. The 
lines of search and the chief localities examined in the hope of find- 
ing the lost expedition may be traced on Circumpolar Map No. I. 
(Pocket.) The tables have been arranged to show that the search for 
Franklin was carried on by expeditions whicli, within about the same 
periods, visited the Northern coasts, some from Bering Straits and 
others from Baffin's Bay; — supplemented by land explorations chiefly 
along the middle section of the Continent. The Private Expeditions 
closed the search (Table 4) by McClintock's voyage of the Fox. 









■*T^A^yA^t/n^ /€&€e/n^iC^^y. 



~^€e,*>t<;^'^lZ^vt€d^*J? 



IIiinMui, Kiitinninu \- rrinliuii. 



Preliminary Chapter. 



XXIX 



TABLE No. II. 

English and American Expeditions for the Relief of Sir John Franklin, 1848-1859. 

1. FEOM THE "WEST THROUGH BERING'S STRAITS. 



Years. 


Vessels. 


Commanders. 


Line of search and coasts 
examined. 








' Through Bering's Strait, be- 
yond Point Barrow, to lat. 
73° 51' N., long. 163° 48' W., 


1848-'52 


Plover 


c Commander Moore 

) Captain Mao"uire 


■with a boat expedition from 

< the Plover up the Mackenzie 

River and east to Cape Ba- 












thurst; Mr. R. Sheddon, in 








his yacht " Nancy Dawson," 








^ rendering assistance. 








' Discovered Herald Island, and 


1848-'49 


Herald 


Captain Kellett 


visited and named a part of 




the land reported by Wran- 








I gell. 








' Coast of North America from 








Bering's Strait to Dease 








Strait and coast of Banks 








Land. Investigator aban- 








doned June 3, 1853, in the 








bay of Mercy on the north 


1850-'55 


( Enterprise 

^ luvestigator 


Captain Collinson 

Commander McClure 


; coast of Banks Land. Com- 
mander McClure crossed on 
the ice to Dealy Island to the 












Resolute and Intrepid, and 








returned across the Atlan- 








tic to England. Parliament 








gave £10,000 to him and his 








officers. 




Supply-ships : 






1851-'52 


Doedalus ..... 


Captain Wellesley 




1853 


Amphi trite 

Rattlesnake 


Captain Frederick 




1853 


Commander Trollope 




1853 
1854 


Diligence 

Trincomalee 


Lieutenant Elliott ........ 




Captain Houston . . .... 





XXX 



Preliminary Chapter. 



2. FEOM TIIE EAST THROUGH BAFFIN'S BAT. 




Preliminary Chapter. 



XXXI 



Years. 


Vessels. 


^ „ -, Line of search and coasts 
Commanders. examined. 






1 


' Shores of Wellington Channel ; 








landed stores at Cape Eiley ; 








retiirned with part of Mc- 


1853 


\ PhcEiiix 


Commander Inglefield 


Chire's command ; Lieuten- 


i Breadalbane 


Lieutenant Fawckner 


ant Bellot, of France, per- 
ished in the ice August 17, 


1 






1 


1853 ; the ship lost at Cape 








L Riley August 21, 1853. 


1853-'55 


Advance 


Dr. Kane, IT. S. N 


^ Second Grinnell Expedition, 
J Smith's Sound. Lat.82027'N. 










f Returned to England from 


1854 


\ Phoenix 

^ Talbot 


Commander Inglefield 

Commander Jenkins 


J Beechey Island with part of 
1 Belcher's and McClure's com- 
l mands. 


1855 


\ Release 


Lieutenant Hartsteno, U. S. N.. 
Lieutenant Simms, U. S. N 


' Ships sent out for the relief of 
Dr. Kane; found him on his 
return at Lievely or God- 


f Arctic 










havn, Greenland. 



(3) LAND EXPEDITIONS. 



1848-'49. — Sir John Richardson and Dr. Rae searched the coasts of North America between the 

Mackenzie and the Coppermine Rivers. 
(Dr. Rae, under the Hudson Bay Company in 1846-'47, made a voyage of discovery from Fort 

Churchill to the Gulf of Boothia, surveying the Gulf to Fury and Hecla Strait on the east 

and Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir James Ross on the west, determining there an isthmus.) 
1849. — Dr. Rae reached Cape Krusenstern. 

1849-'51.— Lieut. W. J. S. PuUen, from the Plover. (See table No. II for Boat Expedition.) 
1851. — Dr. Rae: coasts of WoUaston Island and east coast of Victoria Land to lat. 70° N., long. 

101° W. 
1853-'54. — Dr. Rae: coasts of Boothia Isthmus; obtained relics of Franklin's Expedition ('rewarded 

by vote of Parliament). 
1855. — J. Anderson and J. G. Stewart : west coast of Adelaide Peninsula. 



XXXll 



Preliminary CJtapter. 



(1.) PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS ORGANIZED UNDER SUBSCRIPTIONS BY SOCIETIES, BT LADY FRANK- 
LIN, CAPTAIN ROSS, LIEUTENANTS McCLINTOCK, YOUNG, AND OTHERS. 



Years. 


Vessels. 


Commanders. 


Line of search and coasts 
examined. 








' A portion of Cornwallis Island. 








[Dr. E. A. Goodsir, brother of 


1850-'5l 


{ Felix 


Sir Jolm Eoss 

Commander Pliillips . .-..-. .-.. 


the surgeon of the Erebus, 
in the m haler Advice, in 1849, 


J Marv ... 




f *-'^ "'^j .•-••• -.•«« 




also searched Bafiflu's Bay 








, and Lancaster Sound.] 








Found Barrow Strait and 
Prince Eegent's Inlet blocked 
with ice; coasts of Prince of 
Wales Island and North 








1850 


Prince Albert 


Commander Forsyth . 


1 






1 
1 


Somerset. 








' Shores of Prince Eegent's Inlet 


1851-'52 


Prince Albert 


y Captain Kennedy 


and Bellot Straits. Lieuten- 
ant Bellot, of France, was 


J Lieutenant Bellot 






\ 


^ second in command. 








' Wostenholme, Whale, Smith's, 








Jones, and Lancaster 








Sounds, and Bafidn's Bay. 


1852 


Isabel 


CoinniandtT In^'^lelield .... .. 


< [Captain Kennedy, in 1653, 
sailed in the Isabel for Be- 














rings Straits ; voyage aban- 






. 


doned at Valparaiso.] 








Completed survey of North 








Somerset, Prince of Wales 








Island, Boothia-Felix Pen- 








insula, and King William's 


1857-'59 


Fox 


Captain McClintook 


< Laud, finding many relics of 
Franklin's Expedition, and 














obtaining at Point Victory 








the only Eecord as yet recov- 








l, ered. 



This last expedition, under McClintock, brought from the cairn at 
Point Victory, on King WilHam's Land, a tin cyhnder containing the 



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Preliminary Chapter. xxxiii 

Record, of which a fac simile is here given. It is the only official paper 
as yet found recording the fate of the Franklin Expedition.* 

CHIEF BENEFICIAX, RESULTS. 

The explorations for the discovery of the Northwest Passage, and those sent 
out for the relief of Sir John Franklin or other absent explorers, resulted in the 
discovery of that great region lying within the Arctic Circle between 60° and 13(P 
west longitude up to Cape Parry, 71° 23' west longitude and 77° 6' north latitude ; 
or from Davis Strait to Cape Bathurst; embracing Banks, Prince Albert, and 
Prince Patrick's Lands, Melville Island and Sound, McClintock's Channel, Ba- 
thurst Island, Victoria, Prince of Wales and King William's Land, Boothia and 
Gulf of Boothia, North Somerset, North Devon, Melville Peninsula, Cockburn 
Island, Grinnell, Ellesmere, and Washington Lands, Lancaster, Eclipse, and Jones 

* lu 1859 McCliiatock learned that the ships made the passage to the waters leading into 
Simpson's Strait. Franklin's expedition, therefore, discovered what he sought. He had died on 
board the Erebus June 11, 1847. 

The Eoyal Geographical Society, in awarding in 1860 the Founder's gold medal to Lady 
Franklin, affirmed that in placing the Erebus and the Terror in the position of lat. 70° 05', long 98" 
23', "the Franklin Expedition had fiimly established the existence of a Northwest Passage." 
Lieutenant Gore's party, sent out by Franklin from his ship May 24, 1847, had, in fact, in all proba- 
bility, reported to him before his death that the waters of the North and the South were united 
by a passage between his ships and Dease and Simpson's Strait. The discovery was unknown 
iintil the return of the Fox, six years after the award to Sir R. McClure and his officers, as the 
first to cross from the Pacific to the Atlantic. 

A Monument costing £2,000, erected in 1860 in Waterloo Place, bears the inscription : 

FRANKLIN. 

TO THE GREAT NAVIGATOR 

AND HIS BRAVE COMPANIONS 

WHO SACRIFICED THEIR LIVES 

COMPLETING THE DISCOVERY OF 

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 

A. D. 1847^8. 

ERECTED BY THE UNANIMOUS VOTE 

OF PARLIAMENT. 

This statue, voted by the nation, was unveiled in the presence of the First Lord of the 

Admiralty, Sir J. Pakington, and of the distinguished Arctic explorers and geographers, Collin- 

ein, Ommaney, Sabine, Murchison, Osborn, and Rawlinson, Mr. John Barrow, Mr. Arrowsmith, 

and of others, with Lady Franklin. She declared the likeness of her husband excellent and 

S. Ex. 27 III 



xxxiv Preliminary Chapter. 

Sounds, Wellington Channel, Kellett, Barrow Straits, Franklin Straits, Peel, Sir 
James Eoss, and the Fury and Hecla Straits, Regent's Inlet, and the discovery in 
1833, by Sir James Eoss, of the north magnetic pole. (Judge Daly, pres. of Am. 
Geog. Soc, in Johnston's Cyclopedia, 1876.) See Circumi)olar Pocket Map and 
Map No. II. 

In a very courteous letter received since the preparation of this 
Narrative was begun, Admiral Sir F. L McClintock, R. N., estimates 
the aggregate amount of moneys expended by England in these North- 
west Passage explorations at £272,000, and of those expended in the re- 
lief expeditions, at £h 75,000; with the additions made by private parties 
of £35,000. Of this last sum a large proportion was from Lady Frank- 
lin's purse. 

The aggregate of moneys expended by American exploring and 
relief expeditions, chiefly from private subscriptions, exceeds the sum 
of $250,000. The amount appropriated by the United States Con- 
gress for Dr. Kane's Expedition was $150,000. 

Admiral McClintock further writes that the number of miles 

traversed by sledge expeditions only, over ice or land, is about 43,000. 

In answer to the request that he would express his views in regard 

characteristic. He is represented as iuforming his officers and crew that the Northwest Passage 
has been discovered. A panel rei)resents Crozier reading the funeral service over Franklin in 1847. 

In 1875 a beautiful Monument, ordered by Lady Franklin, was inspected before her 
death, and placed in the same year in Westminster Abbey. It is of Carrara marble, having in 
has relief an ice-bound ship, and the inscription : 

"0 yo frost, and cold ! O yo ice and snow, 
Bless yo tUo Lord ! 

Followed by Tennyson's lines : 

Not here: the while Nortli lias thy bones, and thou 

Ueroic Sailor Siml I 
Art passiuf; on thy happier voyage now 

Toward no Eaithly I'ole. 

Erected by his widow, who, after long waiting, and sending many in search of him, hei"self de- 
parted to find liim in the reahn.s of life." 



Preliminary Chapter. xxxv 

to the gain to commerce, to science, or to naval impulse by England's 
work for the Northwest Passage and the Relief expeditions, he says : 

This doubtless has been very great ; to whaling commerce it has opened up 
all to the north and west of Davis Strait and Hudson Strait ; also to the north 
of Behring's Strait. The value of these fisheries alone amounts to very many 
millions sterling into the pockets of English and American traders. The scien- 
tific results are very varied and ample in almost every department, and peculiarly 
so in magnetism, meteorology, the tides, geographical discoveries, geology, botany, 
and zoology, as shown by the general advance in each branch. Upon naval im- 
pulse the influence has been truly great ; we could man an expedition with En- 
glish naval officers ; and abroad we have seen Germans, Austrians, Swedes, Nor- 
wegians, and this year Dutchmen, induced to take part in the work of Arctic 
exploration. 

The problem of the Northwest Passage is no longer one of prac- 
tical utility. Science has ceased to expect from its discovery the ad- 
vantages for commerce and navigation the hope of which stimulated 
the explorers. The northeast passage around Asia, successfully prose- 
cuted in the years 1878-79, by Professor Nordenskiold, promises large 
rewards in the interests of science and of commerce. The cereals, the 
graphite, ivory, and other products of the Asiatic Arctic seaboard are 
already coming into the European markets. Lieutenant Payer, of the 
German North Polar Expedition of 1869, has justly said of the whole 
Polar question that "as a problem of science it aims at determining 
limits of land and water, at perfecting that network of lines with which 
comparative science seeks to surround our planet even to the Pole, the 
discovery of the physical laws which regulate climates, the currents of 
the atmosphere and the sea, and the analogies of geology with the earth 
as we see it." 



xxxvi Preliminary Chapter. 

The language of Sir John Barrow, Secretary of the Admiralty, 
whose labors were the means of reviving the explorations towards the 
north and west, is worth recalling : 

But it may be asked, cui bono are these northern voyages undertaken ? If 
they were merely to be prosecuted for the sake of making a passage from En- 
gland to China, and for no other purpose, their utility might fairly be questioned. 
But when the acquisition of knowledge is the groundwork of all the instructions 
under which they are sent forth ; when the commanding officer is directed to 
cause constant observations to be made for the advancement of every branch of 
science — astronomy, navigation, hydrography, meteorology, including electricity 
and magnetism, and to make collections of subjects of natural history — in short, 
to lose no opportunity of acquiring new and important information and discovery ; 
and when it is considered that these voyages give employment to ofl&cers and men 
in time of peace, and produce officers and men not to be surpassed, perhaps not 
equaled, in any other branch of the ser^'ice; the question cui bono is readily an- 
swered in the words of Queen Elizabeth's minister, ^' Knowledge is power." 

At a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, in 1865, Capt. 
Sherard Osborn said : 

In the year 1818 Baffin's discoveries uiion the one hand, and those of Be- 
ring upon the other, with dots for the mouths of the Mackenzie and Hearue Elvers, 
were all we knew of the strange labyrinth of lands and waters now accm-ately 
delineated uiiou our charts of the Arctic zone. Sailors and travelers, in thii'ty- 
six years, have accomi)lished all this ; not always, be it remembered, in well-stored 
ships, sailing rapidly from point to point, but for the most part by patiently toil- 
ing on foot, or coasting in o])en boats round every bay and fiord. Sir Leopold 
McClintock tells the Royal Dublin Society that he estimates the foot explorations 
accomplished in the search for Franklin alone at about forty thousand miles. Yet 
during those thirty-six years of glorious enterprise by ship, by boat, and by sledge, 
England only fairly lost one expedition and 128 souls out of forty -two successive 
expeditions, and has never lost a sledge party out of about one hundred that 
have toiled within the Arctic Circle. Show me upon the globe's surface an equal 
amount of geographical discovery, or in history as arduous an achievement, with 
a suialler amount of human sacrifice, and then I will concede that Arctic explora- 
ratiou has entailed more than its due proportion of suffering. 



Preliminary Chapter. xxxvii 

Those who assert that our labors and researches have merely added so many 
miles of unprofitable coast-line to our charts had better compare our knowledge 
of Arctic phenomena to-day with the theories enunciated by men of learning and 
repute a century ago. They should confront our knowledge of 1SG4 with that 
of 1800 upon the natural history, meteorology, climate, and winds of the Arctic 
Eegions. They must remember that it was there we obtained the clue, still un- 
raveled, of the laws of those mysterious currents which tiow through the wastes 
of the ocean like two mighty rivers— the Gulf Stream and the Ice Stream ; must 
remember that it was there — in Boothia — that the two Bosses first reached the 
Magnetic Pole, that mysterious point round which i-evolves the mariner's compass 
over one-half of the Northern hemisphere; and let the world say whether the mass 
of observations collected by our explorers on all sides of that Magnetic Pole have 
added nothing to the knowledge of the laws of magnetic declination and dip. They 
should remember how a few years ago it was gravely debated whether man could 
exist through the rigors and darkness of a Polar winter, and how we have only re- 
cently discovered that Providence has peopled that region to the extreme latitude 
yet reached, and that the animals upon which they subsist are there likewise, in 
winter as well as in summer. All this, and much more, should be borne in mind by 
those cynics who would have you believe we have toiled in vain ; and I hold, with 
the late Admiral Beechey, " that every voyage to the North has tended to remove 
that veil of obscurity which previously hung over the geography and all the phe- 
nomena of the Arctic Eegions. Before those voyages all was darkness and terror, 
all beyond the North Cape a blank ; but, since then, each successive voyage has 
swept away some gloomy superstition, has brought to light some new phenome- 
non, and tended to the advancement of human knowledge. 

At one of the meetings of the American Geographical Society, of 
New York, Mr. Henry Grinnell replied to questions of like character 
by stating some of the results in the extension of commerce and trade 
which have flowed from Arctic researches : 

1. Sir H. Gilbert's discovery of the cod-fisheries of Newfoundland. 

2. From Davis' discoveries, the great whale-fisheries of West Greenland. 

3. From the discoveries of Hudson (who also discovered and sailed into our 
North Eiver, which now bears his name, while on an Arctic voyage), Hudson's 
Bay, and the operations of the great fur companies. 



xxxviii Prelimmary Chapter. 

4. Sir John Ross : the whale-flsliery of tlie North, aud northwest of Buffiu's 
Bay.* 

5. Captain Parry : whale-fishery of Lancaster Sound, Barrow Strait, and 
Prince Eegent's Inlet. 

6. Admiral Beechey : whale-fishery of Bering's Straits, in which in the 
space of two years the whalers of Nantucket and New Bedford obtained cargoes 
from which it is said they have realized eight miUions of dollars. 

To these statements of results may be added with interest the fact 
that the loss of life has been remarkably small. The number of deaths 
occurring- on board of all the sliips of all the public and private expedi- 
tions sent for the relief of Franklin and on those engaged in later Arctic 
explorations up to the year 1873 has not exceeded one and seven-tenths 
per cent, of the officers and men employed. At the meeting of the 
Royal Geographical Society in 1865, Lieutenant Maury remarked that 
the wreck-charts of the British Isles for the previous year showed greater 
loss than did the forty years of Arctic exploration, 1819—59. 

The accompanying map, No. II, shows the unexplored regions at 
the date of 1818, geographical discoveries subsequent to that date 
being inclosed within the red lines. Circumpolar Map No. I (to be 
found in the pocket of the volume) has been prepared to show the chief 
localities visited by the officers named in the preceding tables. A few 

*0ii the map .accompauyiug Hon. Daiucs Barrington's "Possibility of Approacliiug tbo 
Nortli Pole," published in Loudon in 1818, " Baffin's Bay" will be found to have upon it the words 
"according to the relation of W. Baffin in 1616, bnt not now believed." The facts of this case are 
that Purchas unpardonably omitted publishing the map brought back by the truthful old nav- 
igator, saying that " the Tables of his Journal aud sayling were too costly to insert." As the con- 
sequence of thus discrediting Baffin, no whaler ever visited the "North Water "of his bay for two 
liundred years. The Dutch opened a whale-tishery in Davis Strait in 1719, making not prolita 
during the period of 1719-1778 of nearly £900,000. 

In 1818 Capt. .John Ross found Baffin's relations to be accurate aud his skeleton chart the 
safe guide of a worthy and altle navigator. Ross found the whales large, numerous, and easily 
ai)i)roached. He reported that the lishcrics might bcj pursued with great success. This was the 
fruit of the lirst expedition for the Northwest Passage. 



.•jjTl 






-Sr 




T ,^ ^r-nohiea' Discoveries made since 
Circumpolar Map No. 11 (Geograpi 



1818 in Red. 



Preliminary Chapter. xxxix 

other localities and names have also been marked on the Eastern and 
the Western hemispheres, and the Northern Asiatic coast-line is noted 
as corrected by Nordenskiold, 1878-79. 



EARLY AMERICAN VOYAGES FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE. 

It is of interest to note at what early dates in our colonial history 
citizens of Pennsylvania, New York, and Virginia shared in these 
explorations. The following letter from Dr. Franklin is in proof. The 
original was presented by Hon. George Bancroft to Mr. Grinnell. Mr. 
Bancroft refers to it in his History of the United States, vol. iv, p. 141. 
The extracts which follow the letter have been taken from the files of 
" The Pennsylvania Gazette, found in the Mercantile Library, Phila- 
delphia. The letter of William Allen is from the Penn Papers of the 

Pennsylvania Historical Society. 

Philadelphia Fe¥ 28"^, 1753. 
* * * I believe I have not before told you, that I have provided a 
subscription here of £1.500 to fit out a vessel in search of a North West j»assage. 
She sails in a few days, and is called the Argo, commanded by M'. Swaine, who 
was in the last Expedition in the California and author of a Journal of that voy- 
age in 2 Volumes. We think the attempt laudable, whatever may be the success. 
If she fails, " magnis tamen excidit ausis." 
With great esteem, 

BENJ. FEANKLIN. 

Mr. Cadwaladeb Golden, N. Y. 

Of this voyage the Pennsylvania Gazette, " printed for Benjamin 
Franklin, postmaster, and D. Hall," November 15, 1753, says: 

Sunday last, arrived here the Schooner Argo, Captaui Charles Swaine, who 
sailed from this Port last Spring on the Discovery of a North West Passage. She 
fell in with the Ice of Cape Farewell ; left the Eastern Ice, and fell in with the 
Western Ice, in Lat. 58°, and cruised to the Northward to Lat. 63°, to clear it, but 



xl Preliminary Chapter. • 

could not ; it then extending to the Eastward. On her return to the Southward, 
she met with two Danish Ships bound to Ball Eiver and Disco, up Davis' Straits, 
who had been in the Ice fourteen Days off Farewell, and had then stood to West- 
ward, and assured the Commander that the Ice was fast to the Shore, all above 
Hudson's Straits to the distance of forty Degrees out; and that there had not been 
such a severe Winter as the last these 24 Years that they had used that Trade ; 
they had been nine Weeks from Copenhagen. The Argo, finding she could not 
get round the Ice, pressed through it and got into the Strait's Mouth the 26th of 
June, and made the Island Resolution, but was forced out by vast quantities of 
driving Ice, and got into a clear Sea the 1st of July. On the 14th, cruising the 
Ice for an opening to get in again, she met 4 Sail of Hudson's Bay Ships, endeav- 
oring to get in, and continued with them till the 19th, when they parted in thick 
Weather, in Lat, 62 and a half, which thick Weather continued to the 7th of August. 
The Hudson's Bay Men supposed themselves 40 Leagues from the Western Land. 
The Argo ran down the Ice from 63° to 57° 30', and, after repeated attempts to 
enter the Straits in vain, as the Season for discovery on the Western Side of the 
Bay was over, she went on the Labrador Coast, and discovered it perfectly from 
56° to 55°, finding no less than six Inlets, to the Heads of all of which they went, 
and of Avhich we hear they have made a very good Chart, and have a better 
Account of the Country, its Soil, Produce, &c., than has hitherto been i)ubhshed. 
The Captain says 'tis much like Norway, and that there is no communication 
with Hudson's Bay through Labrador where one has been heretofore imagined, a 
high Eidge of Mountains running North and South about 50 Leagues within the 
Coast. In one of the Harbors they found a deserted wooden House with a brick 
Chimney which had been built by some English, as appeared by Sundry Things 
they left behind : and afterwards in another Harbor they met with Captain Goff 
in a Snow* from London, who informed them that the same Snow had been there 
last Year, and landed some of the Moravian Brethren who had built that House ; 
but the Natives having decoyed the then Captain of the Snow, and five or six of 
his Hands, in their Boat round a Point of Laud at a Distance from the Snow, 
under pretence of Trade, and carried them all off (they having gone imprudently 
Avithout Arms), the Snow after waiting sixteen Days, without hearing of them, 
went Home and was obliged to take away the IMoravians to help to work the 
Vessel. Part of the Business this Year was to Enquire after those Men. Cap- 
tain Swaine discovered a fine fishing Bank, which lies but six Leagues off the 



*A three-maBtcd vessel, the third mast, abaft the mainmast, carrying a trysail. 



Preliminary Chapter. xli 

Coast, and extends from Lat. 57° to 54°, supposed to be the same hinted at in 
Captain Davis's Second Voyage, No bad Accident happened to the Vessel, and 
the men kept in perfect health during the whole Voyage and returned all well. 

II. Not satisfied with the results of this attempt, Captain Swaine 
again sailed in the Argo, the following spring, and the Pennsylvania 
Journal and Weekly Advertiser of Thursday, October 24, 1754, pub- 
lished in Philadelphia, says : 

On Sunday last arrived here the Schooner Argo, Capt. Swaine, who was 
fitted out in the Spring, on the discovery of a N. W. Passage, but having three of 
his Men killed on the Labrador Coast, returned without success. 

The Gazette also says : 

On Sunday last arrived here the schooner Argo from a second Attempt of 
a Discovery of the Northwest Passage, but without success. 

A full "Extract from a Journal of this voyage of 1753" will be 
found in the quarto volume on "The Great Probability of the North- 
west Passage," edited by Thomas Jefferys, Geographer to the King, 
London, 1768. It embraces 22 pages of Jefferys' Quarto Treatise. 
In the extract will be found also the statement that a Captain Taylor, 
in a sloop of about thirty-five tons, was met with July 9, 1 75i5, in 
the same waters somewhere in about lat. 56° and long. 56° 42', which 
sloop had been fitted out from JRhode Island to go in pursuit of a North- 
west Passage, and if not successful to come down on the coast of 
Labrador. 

In Jeiferys' volume, p. xi, will also be found the following : 
The voyage of 1752 was made from Philadelphia in a schooner of about sixty 
tons, and fifteen persons aboard, fitted out on a subscription of the merchants of 
Maryland, Pennsylvania, New York, and Boston, on a generous plan, agreeable to 
proposals made them, with no viewof any monopoly which they opposed, not to inter- 
fere with the Hudson's Bay trade, or to carry on a clandestine trade with the natives 
of Greenland, but to discover a Northwest Passage and explore the Labrador 
coast, at that time supposed to be locked up under a pretended right, and not 



xlii Preliminary Chapter. 

frequeutecl by the subjects of England, but a successful trade carried on by the 
French ; to open a trade there, to improve the fishery and the whaling on these 
coasts, cultivate a friendship with the natives, and make them serviceable in a 
political way, which design of theirs of a publick nature, open and generous, was 
in a great measure defeated by private persons interfering, whose views were 
more contracted. 

They did not succeed the first year as to their attempt in discovering a 
Northwest Passage, as it was a great year for ice ; that it would be late in the 
year before the western part of Hudson's Bay could be attained to, and then im- 
possible to explore the Labrador that year, therefore the first part of the design 
Avas dropped, and the Labrador was explored. The next year a second attempt 
was made as to a passage ; but three of the people who went beyond the place 
appointed by their orders, and inadvertently to look for a mine, [samples of which 
had been carried home the year before, and this at the instigation of a private 
person before they set out from home, without the privity of the commander,] 
were killed by Eskimaux, and the boat taken from them. After which accident, 
with some disagreeable circumstances consequent thereon amongst the schooner's 
company, and after an experiment made of their disinchnation to proceed on any 
further discovery, it was thought most prudent to return. This short account 
is given by the person who commanded in this affair to prevent any misrepre- 
sentation hereafter of what was done on these voyages. . 

The last three lines of this paragraph point probably to an item 
in the following curious letter from the chief merchant of Philadelphia 
of that day, and the chief "undertaker" of the voyage of 1752. 

Letter from Will. Allen, merchant, and, at a later date, Chief Justice of the Province 
of Pennsylvania, to the proprietary Thomas Penn. 

Philadelphia, ¥or. ISth, 1753. 
Sib : As I am quite assured that everything that regards the interest and 
reputation of the Province of Pennsylvania will ever be regarded b.>' you, I there- 
fore beg leave to solicite your favor in behalf of myself and many other merchants 
of this place. Notwithstanding the repeated attempts of Gentlemen in England 
to discover the Northwest Passage without success, yet there has appeared 
among us a spirit to luidertake that noble design, which if effected Avill redound 
to the honour of your province and to the advantage of us the undertakers. 



Preliminary Chapter. xliii 

By the inclosed papers, over which you will be pleased to cast your eye, 
you will iierceive that last year we had intended to pnt our design in execution, 
but by the extremity of the winter and other accidents it was postponed to the 
next year, at which time, as we have bought a vessel and all other material, and 
engaged a navigator and mariners here, we shall proceed in the affair, and des- 
patch the vessel from here the latter end of March, and are in great hopes, by 
avoiding mistakes of former attempts, and pursuing, as we think, more i^roper 
measures, to be able to effect the discovery of the passage, or, at least, put it out 
of doubt whether there is one or no. We have been the more encouraged in this 
attempt by the consideration that, in case our search for the passage should be 
fruitless, we might strike out a lucrative trade with the coast of Labrador; but 
we, to our great surprise, are informed we are like to be deprived of the proposed 
trade by means of a scoundrel of a parson, one James Sterling, who last sum- 
mer took his passage to London, and there represented the advantage of the 
trade to the Labrador coast in such a light to Messrs. Hanbury, Buchanan, and 
others, that it is said they have applied to the Crown for an exclusive patent. 
This same Sterling, who is a Church of England minister at Newtown, Md., 
was concerned with us in the original undertaking, and subscribed to bear part 
of the expense ; but after he had by frequent conversations extracted from the 
person we chiefly depend upon for executing the design, all or chief part of the 
intelligence that he could give, he has been base enough to endeavour to circum- 
vent us. As a proof of that I assert, I here enclose his original letter, wrote with 
his own hand, to Mr. Benjamin Franklin. We have also here our paper of sub- 
scription for the carrying on of the undertaking, signed by the said Sterling; 
notwithstanding which, as I said before, he made a voyage to London, and for 
his discovery and the proposals he laid before the above Gentlemen, he has, 
though a parson, been rewarded with a collectorship of the customs at the head of 
the bay. We conceive ourselves very ill used by this false brother ; have there- 
fore presented a petition to His Majesty, which comes herewith, praying that 
no patent for an exclusive trade be granted, which is humbly submitted to your 
consideration, and I am desired to request that you will please to get it presented 
if you judge it will answer any good end. The expense attending the sollicitation, 
&c., I will take care of, with thanks to discharge. Your kind interposition in our 
behalf will confer a favor on many of the most considerable merchants of this 
place, and parcicularly on 

Your most obedient humble servant, 

WILL. ALLEN. 



xliv Preliminary Chapter, 

A VOYAGE FROM VIRGINIA 1772. 

The Gentlemen's Magazine, published in London, November, 

1772, says: 

By a letter from James Wilder, captain of the Diligence, fitted out by sub- 
scription in Virginia Avitli a view to the discovery of the long sought for North- 
west Passage, it appears by the course of the tides there is a passage, but that 
it is seldom or never open, and he believes impassable. He sailed as high as 69° 
11' and discovered a large bay before unknown. 

The American Quarterly Review of 1828 refers to this voyage; 

also, Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, and Macpherson, 

in his Annals of Commerce, vol. iii. Contributions in sums of £5 

and upAvard were made for it in New York. 

A VOYAGE REPORTED TO HAVE BEEN MADE IN 1639 FROM BOSTON. 

Hall had notes of a strangely-reported expedition from Boston 

in 1639, against which the Viceroys of New Spain and Peru were said 

to have dispatched Admiral de Fonte. These notes will be found in 

Jefferys' work already referred to. Snow's History of Boston treats 

the story of the Admiral as a myth, made up by the Magnalia. But 

Ellis, in his Voyage of the Dobbs and California, says : 

It is not at all impossible that either to this, or some other Exiiedition un- 
dertaken from Boston, the present Hudson's Bay Company owe that Discovery 
which produced their Charter, and put them in Possession of those Places in that 
Bay, in which they have Settlements at present. Mr Jeremie, who was Governor 
at I'ort Nelson while it was in the Hands of the French, and who without doubt, 
had better Opportunities of knowing the Matters of which he writes than most 
other People, gives us this account of the Matter. He says, that one M: de Groise- 
leiz, an inhabitant of Canada, a bold and enteri)rising man and one who had trav- 
elled much in those parts, pushed his Discoveries at length so far, tliat ho readied 
the Coasts of Hudson's Bay, from the French Settlements by Land. Upon his 
Eeturn, he prevailed upon some of his Countrymen at Quebeck to fit out a Bark 
for perfecting this Discovery by Sea ; which being done, and he landing uj)on 



Preliminary Chapter. xlv 

the Coast where he apprehended uo European had been before, was amazed in 
the very Depth of Wiutei, lo hear that some of his Oomiiany had discovered an 
English settlement, as they were i^leased to call it near Port Nelson. He went 
thither with a Design to attack it ; but at his Arrival found it a poor miserable 
Cottage covered with Tiu-f, in which were half a Dozen half starved Wretches, 
without Arms, and v.'ithout Strength to use them if they had had any. These 
People told him that they were Part of a Ship's Crew from Boston, that they vrere 
set on Shore to look for a Place, where the Shii) to which they belonged might 
Winter ; and that the next Morning the Ice drove the Ship out of the Port, Avhich 
they never saw more. As we have no Date to this Eelation, it is imi)ossible to 
say whether it was that Ship from Boston mentioned in de Fonte's Account or 
not; but if it was, and the Crew perished as very probably they might in this 
Inhospitable Country, it affords a clear and easy Solution of that, otherwise un- 
answerable Difficulty, as to Captain Shai)ley's making such a Voyage, and so 
considerable a Discovery, without its coming to be known either in N. England, 
or in Old. But if we should be wrong in this" Conjectui'e, it would still remain an 
incontestible Proof that some Attempts were made from Boston, when they were 
laid aside and forgot at London & Bristol. 

[The voyage was probably for trading purposes only.] 



PRINCIPAL ENGLISH ARCTIC PUBLICATIONS BETWEEN THE YEARS 1818 

AND 1860. 

Hall's journals and correspondence show that he had access to 
the larger number of the following-named authorities. It appears 
also, in his notes and by a letter from Mrs. Hall, that his library — a 
total loss on his Polaris voyage — included many of them ; some pre- 
sented and others loaned to him by his New York friends. He had 
specially noted the " Record of Auroral Phenomena" observed by Arc- 
tic voyagers from 1746 to 1856, compiled by the late Peter Force, of 
Washington. [Smithsonian Contributions, vol. viii, 1856.] 

The list of authorities which follows includes Hall's volumes and 
others consulted in preparing this chapter. 



xlvi Preliminary Chapter. 

I. Chief Arctic Anthorities from the revival of Arctic exploration, 1818 to 1845. 

Barrow, Sir John. *'A Chronological history of voyages undertaken chiefly for 
the purpose of discovering a jST. E., N. W., or Polar Passage between the 
Atlantic and the Pacific. 8°. London, 1818." [This volume contains a 
synopsis of the voyages made from the early periods of Scandinavian na\"i- 
gation to the revival of the search for the passage under Buchan and Boss, 
1818. The chief voyages of modern dates summarized are those of Colum- 
bus (1492), the Cabots (1497), the Cortereals (1502), Cartier (1534), WU- 
loughby (1553), Burroughs (155G), Frobisher (1576-'78), Pet and Jackman 
(1580), Gilbert (1583), Davis (1585), Barents (1594-'97), Jas. Hall (IGll) 
Hudson (1607-'10), Bylot and Baffln (1016), Luke Fox (1031), James (1631) 
Middleton (1741), Hearne (1769-'72), Phipps (1773), Cook (1779), Mackenzie 
(1789), Kotzebue (1815-'18), John Boss (1818), Buchan (1818).] 

Barrington, Hon. D. The possibility of approaching the North Pole asserted 
with an Appendix by Col. Beaufoy. 8°. London, 1818. 

Buchan, Capt. D. Voyage of discovery towards the N. Pole performed in H. M, 
Ships Dorothea and Trent in 1818; edited in 1843 by Captain Beechey 
R. N. (Lieut, on the Trent in 1818). 

Boss, Capt. John, E. N. A A'oyage of discovery made under orders of the Ad 
miralty in her Majesty's Ships Isabella and Alexander for the purpose of 
exploring Baffin's Bay and enquiring into the ]irobability of a N. W. passage 
1818. 40. Loudon, 1819. 

Fisher, A. Journal of a voyage to the Arctic Eegions in 1818, in H. M. S. Alex 
ander. 8°. London, 1819. 

Scoresby, W., jun. An account of the Arctic Eegions, with a history and descrij) 
tion of the Northern Whale Fishery. 2 vols. 8°. London, 1820. 

Parry, Capt. W. E. Journal of a voyage for the discoverj^ of a N. W. Passage 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, 1819-'21, in her Majesty's Ships Hecla and 
Griper. 4°. London, 1821. 

Von Wrangell, Baron F. Narrative of an Expedition to the Polar Sea in 1820. 
Translated by Col. Sabine. 

Fisher, A. Journal of a voyage of discovery to the Arctic Eegions in H. M. S. 
Hecla and Griper in the years 1819-'20. 8°. London, 1821. 

Journal of a second voyage for the discovery of a North West passage 

from the Atlantic to the Pacific in his Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla, 
1821-'23. 40. London, 1824. 



Preliminary Chapter. xlvii 

Lyon, G. F. The private Journal of Capt. G. F, Lyon of H. M. S. Ilecla during 
the recent voyage of discovery under Capt. Parry, 1821-'23. 12°. Lon- 
don, 1824. [Contains much of ethuological interest.] 

Franklin, Sir John. Narrative of a Journey to the shore of the Polar Sea in the 
years 1819-'22. 4°. London, 1823. 

Parry, Capt. W. E. Journal of a third voyage for the discovery of a N. W. pas- 
sage, 1824-'25 : H. M. Ships Hecla and Fury. 4°. London, 1826. 

Lyon, Capt. G. F. A brief Narrative of an unsuccessful attempt to reach Eepulse 
Bay through Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome in H. M. S. Griper in 1824. 8°. 
London, 1825. 

Franklin, Capt. John. Narrative of a 2d Expedition to the shores of the Polar 
Sea, including an account of a detachment to the Eastward by John Eich- 
ardson, 1825-'27. 4°. London, 1828. 

Beechey, Capt. W. F., E. N. Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific and Bering's 
Strait to cooiierate with the Polar expedition (Franklin's 2d land journey) 
in H. M. Ship Blossom, 1825-'28. 8°. London, 1831. 

Eoss, Cai^t. John. Narrative of a second voyage in search of a N. W. Passage, 
and of a residence in the Arctic regions during the years 1829-'33, includ- 
ing the Eeports of James C. Eoss and the discovery of the N. Magnetic Pole. 
4°. London, 1835. 

Parry, W. E. Narrative of an attempt to reach the N. Pole in boats fitted for the 
purpose and attached to H. M. S. Hecla in the year 1827. 4°. London, 
1828. Lat. reached, 82° 43'. (The Spitzbergen route.) 

Back, Capt. Geo. Narrative of the Arctic Land Expedition to the Mouth of the 
Great Fish Eiver and along the shores of the Arctic Ocean in the years 
1833-'35. 4°. London, 1836. 

King, E., M. D. Narrative of a journey to the shores of the Arctic Ocean under 
Capt. Back in 1833-'35. 

Back, G. Narrative of an Expedition in H. M. S. Terror; undertaken witli 
a view to Geographical discoveries on the Arctic shores, 1836-'37. 8°. 
London, 1838. 

Simpson, Thomas. Narrative of the Discoveries on the N. Coast of America 
effected by the Officers of the Hudson's Bay Comi^any during the years 
1836-'39. 8o. London, 1843. 
[An account of these, communicated to E. Geog. Soc'y by Governor PeUy, of the 
Hudson Bay Co., in E. Geog. Soc'y Journal, vol. viii, 1838.] 



xlviii Preliminary Chapter. 



II. Chief Englisli and French Arctic piihlications issued between the years 1845 

and 18C0. 

Barrow, Sir John. Voyages of Discovery aud research within the Arctic regions 

from the year 1818 to 1845. 8°. London, 184C. 
Eae, Dr. John. Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 

and 1847. 8°. London, 1850. 
Kichardson and Eae. Journal of a Boat Voyage in search of Sir J. Franklin in 

1848. 2 V. 8°. London, 1851. 
Goodsir, E. A. An Arctic Voyage to Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound in search 

of friends with Sir J. Franklin, in 1849. 8°. Loudon, 1850. 
The Franklin Expedition. Considerations on Measures for the discovery and 

Belief of our absent adventurers in the Arctic regions. Londou, 1850. 
Snow, W. P. Voyage of the Prince Albert in search of Sir J. Franklin in 1850. 

8°. London, 1851. 
Kennedy ,*Wm. A short Narrative of the second Voyage of the Prince Albert, 

1851. 8°. 
Sutherland, P. C, M. D. Journal of a Voyage in Baffin's Bay and Barrow Straits 

performed in the years 1850-'51 by H. M. S. Lady Franldin and Sophia under 

Capt. AV. Penny in search of the Missing Ships Erebus and Terrcr. 2 vols. 

8°. London, 1852. 
Bellot, J. E. Journal d'uu Voyage aux mers polaires execute par Lieut, de Vais- 

seau de la Marine Fran§aise, J. E. Bellot, a la recherche de Sir J. Franklin 

en 1851-'52. 8°. Paris, par M. Julien Lemer. 
Memoirs of, with Journal. 2 v. 8°. London, 1855. Eevised by M. de 

la Eoquette : Soc. de Geograi)hi6 de Paris. 
Belcher, Capt., Sir E. Tlie last of the Arctic Voyages : the Expedition in H. M. 

S. Assistance, 1852-'54. 2 v. 8°. London, 1855. 
Seeman, Berthold. Narrative of the Voyage of H. M. S. Herald, 1845-'51, under 

Capt. H. Kellett. 8°. London, 1853. 
Inglefleld, Commander E. A. A Summer Search for Sir John Franklin. 8°. 

London, 1853. 
Kane, Elisha Kent, IT. S. N. Access to an Open Polar Sea. 8°. New York, 1853. 
\j. S. Grinnell Expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. 8°. New 

York, 1853. 
Arctic Explorations. The Second Grinnell Expedition in search of Sir 



John Franklin, 1855. 2 v. 8°. Philadelphia, 1850. 



Preliminary Chapter. xlix 

Kane, Elisha Kent, U. S. IsT. Eeport to Hon. Sec'y Navy of the Voyage of the 

Advance ; Sec'y Dobbin's Eeport to Congress, 1853. 
Astronomical Observations in the Arctic Eegions. 4°. 1860. Smith- 
sonian Contributions, vol. 12. 
IMeteorological Observations in the Arctic Eegions. 4°. 1860. Smith- 
sonian Contributions, vols. 11 and 12. 
De Haven, Lieut. Edwin J. Instructions to, from Hon. W. B. Preston, Sec'y Navy, 

for his command of the Advance and Eescue, in Eeport of Sec'y Navy for 

1850-'51. 

His report to Hon. W. A. Graham in Sec. Navy's Eeport for 1851-'52. 

Hartstene, Lieut. H. J., U. S. N. Eeport of the cruise of the Eelease and the 

Arctic in search of Dr. Kane ; in Eeport of Hon. Sec'y Navy for 1855-'56, 
Markham, C. E., Sec. E. G. Socy, Franklin's footsteps ; a sketch of Greenland 

along the shores of which his Expedition passed and of the Parry Islands. 

1853. 
McDougall, F. The Eventful Voyage of H. M. S. Eesolute in the Arctic regions 

in search of Sir J. Franklin, 1852-'54. 8°. London, 1854. 
Osborn, Capt. S., E. N. Discovery of the N. W. passage by Capt. McClure in H. 

M. S. Investigator, 1850-'54. 8°. London, 1857. 
Stray leaves from an Arctic Journal, or 18 mos. Service in the Arctic 

regions. 
Armstrong, A. (M. D.). Personal Narrative of the discovery of the N. W. pas- 
sage while in search of the Expedition under Sir John FrankUn, 1850-'54. 

8°. London, 1857. 
Malte Brun, V. A., Vice Pres. Geog. Society of Paris. Coup d'oeil d'ensemble sur 

les differentes expeditions entreprises ^ la recherche de Sir J. Franklin et 

sur ses decouvertes g^ograpliiques. 8°. Paris, 1855. 
Eoquette, M. de la. Des dernieres Expeditions faites a la recherche de Sir John 

Franklin et de la D^couverte d'un passage par mer de I'Ocean Atlantique 

a I'Ocean Paciflque. Paris, 1856. 

Notice biographique sur I'Admiral Sir J. Franklm. 4°. 1856. 

Eichardson, Sir John. The Polar Eegions (from the Encyclopoedia Britannica). 

1856. 

Life of Sir John Franklin in the Britannica. 

McClintock, Capt. F. Leopold, E. N. The discovery of the fate of Franklin and 

his Companions, 1859. 8°. 
Yoiing, Capt. Allen. The Search for Franklin. In CornhiU Magazine for 1860. 
S. Ex. 27 IV 



1 Preliminary Chapter. 

Hiiyes, I. I. The Open Polar Sea. Narrative of a Voyage of discovery in tlie 

Scliooner United States. 8°. New York, 1860. 
Osborn, Admiral Slierard, R. N. The Career, last voyage, and fate of Franklin. 

8o. Loudon, 1860. 
Malte Brun, V. A. La destiu6e de Franklin devoile^. 8°. Paris, 1860. 
Brown, J. The N. W. Passage and the plans for the Search for Sir J. Franklin. 

8°. London, 1860. This work contains a satisfactory- review of both snb- 

jects, inclnding the results of McOlintock's voyage. 

Offlcial reports of the English expeditions, including such as those made by 
Dr. Eae and by Anderson who brought the first news of Franklin's exi)edition, and 
other returns which have not appeared in the form of narratives, will be found in 
the Parliamentary Papers,begiiining with the Instructions to Franklin, in the Bine 
Books, and in the papers issued by the Admiralty Hydrographic OfBce. The re- 
ports and discussions of most value outside of these, will be found in the Journals 
and Bulletins of the European and American geographical societies ; especially in 
those of the Eoyal Geographical Society, Loudon; the Bulletins de la Soci6t6 de 
Geographic, Paris ; the Annales de Voyage edited by Malte Bruii, and the Jour- 
nal of the American Geographical Society, New York ; and in Petermaun's Geo- 
graphische Mittheilungen. Copious references to aU of these are given in "Die 
Literatur iiber der Polar Eegionen," edited for the K. K. Geograi)hische Gesell- 
schaft, of Viemia, by Chavaune, Karpff, and Le Monnier. 8°. Vienna, 1878. 



Lhapter 



J- 



PREPARATORY WORK FOR THE SECOND EXPEDITION. 

SEPTEMBliR, mi, TO DKCIMBEK, Lli62 



S. Ex. 27 1 



CHAPTER I. 



PEEPAEATORY WOEK. 

Hall hioturns fuom his First Expedition — Telegraphs from St. John's, Newfoundland, 

EXPRESSING HIS PURPOSE OF A SECOND VOTAGE — WRITES TO MR. GRINNELL FROJI CIN- 
CINNATI, DESIRING TO PRESENT THE FROBISHER EeLICS TO THE ENGLISH PEOPLE — HiS 
ABSTRACT OF DiLLON'S DISCOVERY OF THE EeLICS OF La PEROUSE'S EXPEDITION — STUDIES 
HaKLUYT, PuRCHAS, and other AUTHORITIES, AND FINDS PROOF OF THE GENUINENESS 
OF HIS DISCOVERIES — EeADS A PAPER BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 
AVOWING HIS PURPOSE OF RETURNING NORTH THE FOLLOWING SPRING — ACKNOWLEDG- 
MENT BY THE EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF THE RECEIPT OF THE EeLICS — COR- 
RESPONDENCE WITH Mr. John Barrow and ^vith Captain Becher, E. N.. resulting 

IN THE preparation OF A NEW ARCTIC VOLUME BY ADMIRAL COLLINSON, E. N., FOR 

THE Hakluyt Society — Hall's account of his discoveries read before the Eoyal 
Geographical Society, London— Their genuineness confirmed by Eae, Barrow, 
Markham, and Young — His abstract of the three Expeditions of Sir Martin 
Frobisher — Addenda. 

Hall's preparations for his Second Expedition, which this Narra- 
tive is now to record, occupied a period of nearly two j^ears. The 
labors of those years, by demonstrating the successful results of his 
first voyage, and by the interest created through the publication of his 
"Arctic Researches", secured his second outfit. 

The purpose of the first voyage — to find the records of the Frank- 
lin Expedition, and, if possible, some of the survivors — was entirely 
defeated by the loss of his sole dependence — his boat. The purpose 



4 The Franklin Boat -Crews. 

was but strengthened by defeat. He gave proof of this before his 
arrival in the United States by a telegram from St. John's, Newfound- 
land, to his friends, Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Field, of New York, and Mr. 
Greenwood and Mr. Bishop, of Cincinnati; a dispatch which began 
with the words, "I am bound for the States to renew voyage'', and which 
reads throughout more like news from an excursionist than from one 
who had been fighting his way through two Arctic winters. The forti- 
tude into which those severe experiences had disciplined him, seems to 
have shown itself steadily throughout the succeeding two years of 
working and waiting which are now to be traced. 

Arriving in New London September 13, 1862, and placing under 
the care of Capt. S. 0. Budington the Eskimos, Ebierbing (Joe) and Too- 
koo-li-too {Hannah), who had joined their fortunes with his own, two 
years before, Hall made a short visit to his family and to his earliest 
Arctic friends in Cincinnati. While there, his letters evinced much 
concern as to the opinions which the English people might form from 
the reports by the press of his late voyage, a hasty impression having 
been received from him that he had probably determined the fate of 
two boats' crews of Franklin's Expedition. He had been led into this 
error by a party of Sekoselar Innuits, but promptly corrected it in the 
columns of the New York press, and, afterward, more fully in a i)aper 
read before the American Geogra])hical Society and in the "Arctic Re- 
searches" His apprehensions were that before the first correction could 
reach P^ngland tlie error would prejudice the English against the gen- 
uineness of the discoveries he had been making in the region visited 
by Sir Martin Frobisher three centuries before. 

The appreliension proved to have been groundless. It had, how- 



The Proposed Visit to England. 5 

ever induced Hall to decline lecturing in Cincinnati, and to entertain 
a new idea in regard to his discoveries and to the proper disposition of 
the valuable relics of Frobisher's Expedition, which he had found on this 
first voyage. Writing to Mr. Grinnell, he expressed his belief that he 
ought to go over immediately to England and present these to the 
English sovereign and people, as Captain Dillon in 1829 had presented 
the remains of La Perouse's Expedition to Charles X and to the French 
nation.* 

He naturally set a value on his late explorations, and had reason 
to suppose they would interest the English people. He believed that 
the account given by Frobisher himself of the country he had visited, 
was so indefinite that for nearly three hundred years the civilized world 
had been in doubt of the precise localities. Beste's Narrative to be 
found at that time only in Hakluyt's collection, and Barrow's history 
which Hall had in hand while traveling over the land, were proof 
enough of the indefiniteness of the geographical positions named by 
Frobisher. Up to the time of Hall's visit in 1861, no opportunity had 
been embraced for identifying these localities, orforconfirming the record 
of what Frobisher's three expeditions had reported as accomplished on 

* This he had found fully noted in the "Narrative and Successful Eesult of a Voyage in the 
South, performed by order of the Government of British India to ascertain the actual fate of La 
Perouse's Expedition of 1785 ; made by Chevalier Capt. P. Dillon in 1828." His attention hav- 
ing been closely drawn to this history, he had made the following abstract, the italicized parts of 
which are those underscored in his manuscript, as arguments for his yet finding survivors of 
Franklin's party. 

"Louis XVI and the French nation ha'sdng determined to contribute their share in enlarging 
our acquaintance with the globe and its inhabitants, ordered an expedition to be iitted out in 
1785, consistiug of two of the finest Frencli frigates, La Boussole and L'Astrolabe. Neither labor 
nor expense was spared in completing the expedition, to which were attached some of the ablest 
and most scientific men of Europe. 

"To secure the success of this enterprise the ships' companies of which numbered 240 souls, 
it was deemed necessary to select a man of the highest professional talent to conunaud the expe- 
dition. La Perouse was chcseu ; his distinguished naval exploits, scientific acquirements, and 
enterprising character having pointed him out as the fittest person to be thus honored. 

"The expedition sailed from Brest, August, 1785, and, after making discoveries in variou.s 



6 The Survival of La Perouse's Men. 

tliose shores. The Admiralty chart of 1 853 and that furnished for the 
volume of De Haven's Expedition, still had upon them the so-called 
"Strait" as reported by Frobisher, which was supposed to be a passage 
westward to the further part of Hudson's Bay; but navigators have 
always chosen Hudson's Straits in passing to and from that bay. Had 
any one attempted the passage through what Avas laid down on their 
charts as Frobisher's Strait, they might have anticipated Hall's dis- 
covery, correcting Frobisher and proving this to be a Bay. But the 
language of nearly all of the geographical writers on Frobisher's vo}'- 
ages was obscure, and the charts of the first half of the century, inaccu- 
rate. Hall had reason for desiring to prove the genuineness of his dis- 
coveries, and he expressed a wish to place his proofs before a committee 
that might be appointed in London to examine his notes, his rehcs, and 

himself. 

Sir Martin's name was that of one of the first of Englishmen 



(luartcrs, authored in Botany Bay January 26, 1788. Here La Perouse met witli the British 
squadron under Governor Phillips, and committed to him what proved to ho his last dispatches 
for France. At the close of Fehruary the French set sail for further discovery, hut nothing more 
was heard of La Perouse for thirty-eight years, when Captain Dillon, commanding a vessel sent in 
search of the remains of the lost expedition, ascertained the fate of the long lost navigator. On 
the island of Tucopla (Barnwell Island), lat. 12^ If,' S., long. 169° W., Dillon, in 182G-'27, ohtained 
information that, many years hefore, two vessels had been wrecked near the island of Manicolo, 
within less than one day's sail of Tucopia. Through^ Mai-tin Burhart, a Prussian who had resided 
there fourteen years, Captain Dillon learned that many from the shipwrecked crews had escaped 
to the islands. He hastened to Manicolo and there procured many relics from the natives ; and, 
from the depths of the seas in which the vessel had been wrecked, incontrovertible proofs of their 
destruction forty years before; and at length ho learned that many of the white men were saved, 
but that the last remnant of them had died only throe years before, after surviving thirty-seven years 
from the time of the wreck. On the island of Manicolo had lived some of these survivors of the 
ill-fated expedition long after the world had given them up as dead. The expedition sent out by 
France, under Admiral Entrecasteau, in 1791, had visited La Croix, a few leagues only from INIani- 
colo, where survivors of the lost expe<Ution were then living, and the inhabitants of both islands 
had kept up constant intercourse with each other. Yet this expedition, which was out six years, 
gained no intelligence whatever of La Peroiise, while by that fearful scourge scurvy, it lost one 
hundred and twenty officers and men, though its voyage was mostly in the warm zone. 

"Dillon's men numbered 87 souls, and, at one time, nearly every one was prostrated by the 
diseases of the tropical region. Still, in that clime— more inhospitable than that, surely, of King 
miUani's /.anrf— did some of I-a Perouse's companions survive for nearly forty years." 



Sir Mnrt'tn Frnhisher. 



to sail in quest of the Northwest Passage, and it was one of no less 
fame under Drake and Howard, for in 1588 he was knighted for service 
under the High Admiral against the Armada. Hall's enthusiasm 




Martinus FnoBisHERL's, Eques Aukatus. 
(From "The Three Voyages of Martin Frobisher," edited by Admiral CollinsoD, R. N.) 

prompted him to say that the age of his Frobisher relics and the 
remarkable circumstances attending them stamped them as worthy 
gifts for Queen Victoria. Barrow had shown him that the expeditions 



8 Hall before the American Geographical Society. 

of Sir Martin were among the favorite objects of Elizabeth. She had 
shown her favor by her throwing around Sir Martin's neck a chain of 
gold, and by her letters of praise written to him. 

Conferring, however, with Mr. Grinnell after returning from 
Cincinnati, he decided to send the relics out to England, to the care of 
Mr. Cornelius Grinnell, in place of exhausting his own means and de- 
laying his plans by a visit to London. In the mean time, applying 
himself closely at the rooms of the American Geographical Society 
and of the Astor Library to the old authorities Hakluyt, Purchas, and 
others, he had the satisfaction of further confirming his discoveries. 
After a study of some weeks previously to meeting the Geographical 
Society, he wrote to Budington: 

I find much that is vahiable in proving that the reUcs are, beyond all ques- 
tion, Frobisher's. It will perhaps startle you to hear that one of his vessels went 
into the bay I call Ward's bay, through Beare Sound. It may be the English 
will dispute my discoveries, but I covet the opportunity to show the facts. 

Opportunity for this was early afforded. At the meeting of the 
American Geographical Society, held, as at that time was usual, in tlie 
hall of the Historical Society, of New York, he was introduced by Mr. 
Grinnell and made a report which will be found noted in "the Pro- 
ceedings", under the title of "An abstract of a Paper on some Arctic 
Discoveries." 

In this paper, after referring to his statements before the society 
made two years previously. Hall re-stated in full that the original pur- 
pose of his late voyage was to visit King William's Land and Boothia, 
and there spend two years, if needed, in gathering materials for con- 
cluding in a more satisfactory way the history of P^ranklin's Expedi- 
tion ; to recover the logs of the ships Erebus and Terror, with all other 
manuscripts belonging to that expedition; and, especially, to rescue 



TJie Frohisher Colony. 9 

some lone survivor or survivors that peradventure might be found hving 
with the Eskimos. He then gave an account of Messrs. Williams and 
Haven's generously free conveyance to Northumberland Inlet of him- 
self and his Eskimo companion, Kud-lar-go, with his boat, provisions, 
and stores ; of his boat being wrecked the September following; and 
of his long residence with the natives, during which he had ingratiated 
himself with them, adopting their style of dress, living in their sno\y 
]mts, and feeding on their raw whale-skin, walrus and seal meat. 

With some exultation, he said that in September, 1861, he had 
landed on an island which the Innuits and their ancestors from time 
immemorial had called Kodlunarn, or White Man's Island, from the 
tradition that strangers had lived there and tried to escape from it; — on 
which island he had found remains of stone houses, coal, iron, and 
glass, all covered with the moss of ages; and that he had visited every 
accessible place named by the Eskimos as connected with the fate of 
the strangers living there, as they said, "many, many years ago." He 
added his convictions that he had thus been the first to revisit the pre- 
cise localities of Frobisher's three expeditions of 1576, '77, and '78, 
and quoted from Hakluyt and other works in which the materials 
taken out by Frobisher for the erection of stone houses and every thing- 
necessary for the colony of one hundred men are detailed; and he 
exhibited the specimens which he had brought from the ruins, asking 
the Geographical Society to inspect them rigidly in evidence for or 
against his statements. 

He then showed that during his two years' northern residence, he 
had explored over one thousand miles of coast, making as careful a 
survey as his means and instruments permitted, and proving that the 
water which had for three centuries been called Frobisher's Strait was 



10 The Relics Indorsed as Genuine. 

a wide bay. He added, '' Inasmuch as I have failed in the great object 
for which I went out, it is my intention to try again in the following 
spring." 

The Eskimo family, Ebierbing, Too-koo-li-too, and their child, 
Tu-Jcer-li-Jce-ta (the Butterfly), who had come down from Groton in 
their full arctic dresses of deer and seal skin, Avere introduced to the 
audience. They exhibited a variety of costumes and implements, and 
with their young child were the objects of much interest, and were 
called on for many replies to questions interpreted to them by Hall. 
Valuable donations of relics were sent to the Smithsonian Institution. 
A part of the geological collections was presented to the New York 
Lyceum of Natural History, and was the subject of brief reports to 
the lyceum by Mr. R. P Stevens and Mr. Thomas Egleston. [An 
account of this, and a discussion of another part of his collections, 
afterward presented to Amherst College by J. J. Copp, Esq., of Groton, 
Conn., will be found in Appendix III, illustrated by drawings of some 
of the fossils. This discussion, by Prof B. K. Emerson, of Amherst 
College, is indorsed by Prof C A. White, of the United States Geolog- 
ical Survey of the Territories, as a desirable addition to our knowledge 
of the mineralogical and geological character of the Arctic Regions.] 

A number of other relics were exhibited at the residence of Mr. 
Henry Grinnell for some time before their transmission to England. At 
the close of the year they were presented to the English people, through 
the Royal Geographical Society, London, whose acknowledgment of 
their receipt names: 3 cases and 1 cask of relics; and I piece of iron 
weighing 20 pounds. Hall sent with them a carefully prepared out- 
line sketch of Frobisher's Bay, and three diagram maps, one being that 
of the Countess of Warwicke Sound of Frobisher. In connection 



Correspondence with Barroiv and others. 11 

v/itli this donation, he entered into a correspondence with ]\Ir. John 
Barrow, son of Sir John Barrow who has been so justly styled the 
Father of Modern Arctic Enterprise, with Commander A. B. Becher, 
R N., of the Admiralty, and with Mr. C. R. Markham, then, as now, 
one of the Secretaries of the Royal Geographical Society, making 
close inquiries in regard to such points in Frobisher's history as were 
inaccessible to him, the manuscripts to be consulted being found onl}- 
in the British Museum. 

His letters are in evidence of his earnest desire to possess him- 
self of every fact in the history. The correspondence contains geo- 
graphical notes of intrinsic value, and shows that his claims as a 
discoverer were promptly admitted on the transparent consistency of 
the details given in his letter before the reception of his charts and 
relics. 

Commander Becher had published the results of his own investi- 
gations of Frobisher's voyages in an elaborate paper in the Journal of 
the Royal Geographical Society (vol. 12, 1842). On receiving Hall's 
letter to Barrow, he wrote to Hall : "I have no doubt of your relics 
being those left by Frobisher's party. Warwicke Island and Sound 
were the principal resort of the voyagers. I perceive that your lati- 
tude and mine of Queen Elizabeth's Foreland are pretty near each 
other " 

This correspondence produced an incidental result which lias 
proved valuable to geography and to the libraries of our day. Cap- 
tain Becher's purpose expressed in his letter to Hall, to urge upon the 
Hakluyt Society the issuing of a worthy reprint of Frobisher's jour- 
nals, accorded with the general sentiment expressed by the editor of the 



12 Collinson's Volume PuUished. 

Geographical Society's Journal, Avlien publishing, in 1842, the paper to 
which reference has been made : "That it was not creditable to England 
to have done so little for preserving and rendering available the records 
of the navigation of Frobisher's age." The explorations of Hall and 
the correspondence now referred to resulted in the preparation by 
Admiral Collinson, R. N., for the Hakluyt Society, of a new and valu- 
able volume of Frobisher's voyages. Admiral Collinson, C. B. — now 
I'^.lder Brother of Trinity House, London — well known as himself an 
eminent Arctic explorer, has given in this volume a reprint from the 
first rare edition of Hakluyt's voyages, with selections from manu- 
scripts and documents in the British Museum and in the State Paper 
Office, accompanied by two rare old maps and a picture of Sir Martin, 
The work, issued in 1867, was cordially dedicated "to Henry Grin- 
nell, of New York, as a tribute of respect and admiration not only 
for his conduct and generous co-operation in the search for Sir John 
Franklin and his companions, but for the interest he had shown in, and 
the aid he had afforded to, Polar exploration in the present day." 
In the introduction to this work. Admiral Collinson said : 

In tbe appendix will be found a list of the relics of the Frobisher Expedi- 
tion brought home by Mr. C. F. Hall in 1863, which are now deposited at the 
Koyal Geographical Society ; and I am one of those that believe that his exer- 
tions in exploring King William's Land for the journals and records of the Frank- 
lin Expedition will be attended with success. When this island was visited by 
Sir L. McOlintock and Captain Hobson the ground was covered with snow. Mr. 
Hall intends passing the summer upon it, and the knowledge he has obtained of 
the Eskimo language and character during his two years' residence in Frobisher 
Bay will enable him to gain their confidence. 

The catalogue of relics referred to by Admiral Collinson occupies, 
with its brief accompanying note, eight pages of this new Frobisher 
volume. It is signed by C. F. Hall, and dated from New York, Febru- 



IlaJVs Paper Bead before the Royal Geographical Soviet //, London. 13 

aiy 7, 1863. At the tenth meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society 
for that year, held April 1'-, a paper prepared by liim to be read on 
the receipt of the relics was presented from Mr. H. Grinnell, and read 
by the Secretary of the societ}', Dr. Norton Shaw. This paper and 
the discoveries reported in it elicited the commendations of Sir R. 
Murcliison, President of the society, and of the Arctic explorers, Sir 
George Back, Capt. Sherard Osborn, and Dr. Rae, and occasioned 
the following letter from Mr. John Barrow : 

17 Hanover Terrace, 

Begenfs Park, A2rril 16th, 1863. 
To C. F. Hall: 

Sir : I should soouer have answered your letter of 25th of February, but 
there has been a longer delay than I expected in the reading of your pai)er 
owing to the Easter holidays. It was read on Monday evening at the Eoyal 
GeogTaphical Society in a very crowded meeting, many being unable to get 
seats. 

In consequence of a weakness in my throat I was compelled to give up all 
idea of reading it myself, as the room is ill adapted for hearing, being long and 
narrow, and the speaker fronting his audience in the centre; consequently at the 
ends of the room it is not easy to command attention. However, our secretarj', 
Dr. Norton ShaAv, read it right well. He took great pains, and I assure you you 
might have heard a pin drop during the whole time. The paper was very well 
received, but as it was rather long and another paper to come on, the discussion 
was limited. 

Dr. Eae fully corroborated your statement of reliance to be i)laced on 
Eskimo statements and traditions. I have sent you a report of the ]iroceedings 
given in the Times.* Of course, it is very abridged. Cornelius Grinnell was 
IJresent, and will doubtless write to you fully. 

* [Extract from a letter to Mr. Henry Grrinnell.] 

* * * I send yoii the Times of the 15th instant, which gives a longer account than 
is usual for them to j)ublish of the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society. I wish you had 
been there to hear the eulogy pronounced upon you by Sir Roderick Muxchisou and Captain 
Osborn, and tlio manner in which it was received by the audience. 

The report in the Times gives but a faint idea of what was said. It was enough to make 
any of your family feel proud. It seemed as if Osboru could not say too much of the obligation 



1 4 En couragement. 

As regards the final disposal of the Frobisher relics, I think they should 
either be placed in Greenwich Hall or in the Eoyal United Service Institution 
with the Franklin reUcs. Although your letter has been unanswered it has not 
been neglected. 

Mr, Major, of the British Museum, whom I met at the Geographical Society, 
is getting all the extracts you require made for you, and they will shortly be 
ready. 

Believe me, my dear sir, with best wishes for your success in jour next 
enterprise, yours very truly and with great respect, 

JOHN BARROW. 

The action of the Royal Geographical Society and the courteous 
and encouraging letters received from such officers as have been named, 
proved further incentives to Hall to prepare for a return to the fields of 
exploration. His disappointment in not receiving a single volume of 
the Hakluyt series, for which he asked in the correspondence with the 
secretary of the Hakluyt Society, was compensated for by a loan of 
the whole, at a later date, from the library of Mr. J Carson Brevoort, 
of Brooklyn, L. I. The charts which he needed were courteously 
forwarded by Captain Becher, of the Admiralty, during the ensuing 
season, through the British consul at New York. 

and indebtedness of every Englishman to yoii and of the admir.ation of yonr liberaltyand philan- 
thropy. The whole affair passed off most satisfactorily. Sir George Back spoke in high terms of 
Mr. Hall's perseverance and energy, and had no doubt that the relics were those of Frobisher. 
Rac, Barrow, Young, Markham, and several others also expressed the same opinion. It waa 
thought best to strike out that portion of the paper relating to the supposed rem.ains of Sir John 
Franklin's expedition, as it would be painful to the feelings of their rel.ations. Rac strongly 
corroborated the rcmjirks of Mr. Hall regarding the truthfulness of the traditions of the natives. 

The relics will be for the present exhibited in the society's rooms, for inspect ion of scion! ific 
men, luitil their final disposition, which is in the hands of Sir R. Murchison and Mr. Brown. 

It was delightful to witness the respect and kind feeling exhibited by the eminent discov- 
erers present for the labors of a brother explorer. 

If Mr. Hall could only reach King William's Land and find the Records of Franklin what a 
name he could make for himself! I am afraid it can only be accomplished by a vessel to Prince 
Regent's Inlet or overland by Rae's or Anderson's route through the Hudson Bay Company's 
Torritory 



Hall's Historic Notes. 15 

hall's abstract of the feobisher expeditions. 

In Sir John Barrow's history Hall had before him the following account of 
Frobisher's three expeditions : * * * 

<' Whether Frobisher had collected the reports of the Northwest Passage to 
Cathaia having been actually performed, or whether alone from his knowledge of 
the sphere and aU other skilles appertaining to the arte of navigation, his hopes 
were grounded, it is quite certain that he had persuaded himself the voyage was 
not only feasible but of easy execution. His friends, however, were not so easily 
persuaded to enter into his scheme ; but as it was the only thing of the world left 
yet undone whereby a notable mind might be made famous and fortunate, he per- 
severed for fifteen years without being able to acquire the means of setting forth 
an expedition on which his mind had been so long and so resolutely bent. 

"At length, in the year 157G, by the countenance and assistance of Dudley, 
Earl of Warwick, and a few friends, he was enabled to fit out two small barks, 
the Gabriel of 35 and the Michael of 30 tons, together with a pinnace of 10 tons. 
With this little squadron he prepared to set out on his important expedition, and 
on the 8th of June passed Greenwich, where the court then was, and Queen Eliz- 
abeth bade them farewell by shaking her hand at them out of the window. 

" On the 11th July, 1576, they came in sight of Friesland, rising like pin- 
nacles of steeples, and aU covered with snow ! This island, whose position has so 
greatly puzzled geographers, could not be the Friesland of Zeno, but, being in 61° 
of latitude, was evidently the southern part of Greenland. The floating ice 
obliged Frobisher to stand to the southwest, till he got sight of Labrador, along 
the coast of which he then stood to the westward, but could neither reach the 
land nor get soundings on account of the ice. Sailing to the northward he met 
with a great island of ice which fell in pieces, making a noise as if a great clifi'e 
had fallen into the sea. After this he entered a strait in lat. 03° 8'. This strait, 
to which his name was given from his being its first discoverer, is the same which 
was afterwards named Lumley's Inlet, but Frobisher's Strait teas for a long time 
supposed by geographers to have cut off a portion from Old Greenland, till Mr. 
Dalrymple and others showed the fallacy of such a supposition. # * * 

"Frobisher set sail for England and arrived at Harwich on tie 2d of Octo- 
ber, ^ highly commended ot all men for his greate and notable attempt, but si)ecially 
famous for the great hope he brought of the passage to Cathaia.' That hope, how- 
ever, would probably have died away but for an accidental circumstance wliich 
had been disregarded during the voyage. Some of the men had brought home 
flowers, some grass, and one a piece of stone 'much like to a sea cole in color,' 



16 HaWs Historic Notes. 

merely for the sake of the place from whence tliey came. A piece of this black 
stone being given to one of tlie adventurer's wives, by chance she threw it into the 
fire, and, Avhether from accident or curiosity, having- quenched it while hot witli 
vinegar, 'it glistered with a bright marquesset of golde.' The noise of this inci- 
dent was soon spread abroad, and the stone was assayed by the ' gold finers of 
London,' who reported that it contained a considerable quantity of gold. A new 
voyage was immediately set on foot for the following year, in which we are told 
by Master George Beste, Frobisher's Lieutenant, that ' the Captaine was specially 
directed by commission for the searching more of this golde ore than for the 
searching any fiu-ther discovery of the Northwest Passage.' " 

SECOND VOYAGE, 1577. 

Frobisher was now openly countenanced by Queen Elizabeth, and on taking 
leave for his second voyage had the honor of kissing Her Majesty's hand, who dis- 
missed him "vrtth gracious countenance and comfortable words." He was besides, 
furnished with one tall ship of her Majesty's named "y'^ Ayde^^ of two hundred 
tunne or thereabouts ; and two other little barkes likewise ; the one called the 
Oahriell, whereof Master Fenton was Captaine: and the other, the Michael, 
whereof Master Yorke, a gentleman of My Lord Admirall's was Captaine:" 
these two vessels were about 30 tons each. On the 27th May (1577) having 
received the Sacrament and prepared themselves "as good Christians toward 
God, and resolute men for all fortunes," they left Gravesend, and after a long 
l)assage fell in with Friesland, in Lat. COio, on the 4th of July, the mountains 
covered with snow, and the coast almost inaccessible from the great quantity of 
drift ice. * * # 

Four days were here spent in vain endeavor to laud, after which they stood 
for the strait, discovered bj- them the preceding year. They arrived off the North 
foreland, otherwise Hall's island, so called after the man who had picked up the 
golden ore and who was now Master of the Gabiiell. They i)roceo(led some dis- 
tance up the Strait, when, on the ISth of July, tlie genei'al taking tlie gold-flners 
with him, landed near the spot where the ore had been picked up, but could not 
find in the whole island "a peece as bigge as a walnut:" But all the neighboring 
islands are stated to have good store of the ore. On the top of a high hill about 
two miles from the shore they made a columne or crosse of stones, heajjcd up of 
a good heighth togither in good sort, and solemnly sounded a trimipet & saide 
certaine prayers, kneeling about the ensigiie, and honoured the place by the name 
<jf Mount Watwkkv. * * * 



Addenda to HalVs Notes. 17 

They now stood over to the Southern shore of Frobisher's Strait, and landed 
on a small island with the gold finers to search for ore : and here all the sands 
and cliflfes did so glister, and had so bright a marquesite, that it seemed all to be 
golde, but upon tryall made, it proved no better than black lead and verified the 
proverbe; — "all is not golde that glistereth," # # # 

As the season was far advanced and the general Commission directed him 
to search for gold ore, and to defer the fiuther disco\'ery of the passage till 
another time, they set about the lading of the ships, and iu the space of twenty 
days, ^vith the help of a few gentlemen and soldiers got on board almost two 
hundred tons of ore. On the 22d of August, after making bonfires on the highest 
mount on this island, and firing a volley for a farewell "in honor of the Eight 
Hon. Lady Aune, Couutess of Warwicke, whose name it beareth" they set sail 
homewards, and after a stormy passage, they all arrived safe in different ports of 
Great Britain, with the loss only of one man by sickness, and another who was 
washed overboard. * * * 

THIBD VOYAGE (1578). 

The Queen and her court were so highly delighted "in finding that the 
matter of the gold ore had appearance and made show of great riches and profit, 
and the hope of the passage to Cathaia by this last voyage greatly increased"; 
that, after a minute examination by Commissioners specially appointed, the voyage 
was determined to be highly worthy of being followed up. The Queen gave the 
name of Meta Incognita to the newly discovered country, on which it was resolved 
to establish a colony. # * # rpj^g ^gg^ sailed from Harwich the 31st of 
May, 1578, and, on the 20th of June, discovered West Friesland, which they now 
named West England. * * * They found The Strait choked up with 
ice, and the baik Dennis received such a blow with a rock of ice that she imme- 
diately sank, but the people were all saved. "A violent storm now came on and 
the whole fleet was dispersed. * # * They all however arrived at 
various ports of England about the 1st of October, with the loss by death of about 
40 ijersons." 



ADDENDA TO HALL'S ABSTEACT. 

I. There will be found in "Geo. Beste's True Discourse of the late voyage 

of Discoverie for the finding of a Passage to Cathaya by the North Weast under 

the conduct of Martin Frobisher Generall," the statements that Frobisher, on his 

first voyage, sailed 50 miles u]) the waters which he took for a strait, and believed 

S. Ex. 27 2 



18 Addenda to HalTs Notes. 

that it extended across tbe continent tbrougli wliicb ships might reach China. 
AVith Christopher Hall, he climbed a high mountain, from which they saw to the 
southeast the two headlands which marked the entrance to their " Straits." Look- 
ing to the northwest, the^' saw the sea stUl extending to the horizon. The tides 
and currents, too, set in from that direction ; and thus e\'erything went to con- 
firm Frobisher's belief that be bad found another Magellan's Straits. On his Sec- 
ond Expedition his Instructions were not to push through tbe Strait into China 
for the present, gold being the first consideration. 

II. On bis third voyage be found "such plenty of black ore, that if the <ifoo<Z- 
ness might answer the great plenty thereof it might reasonably suffice all the gold 
gluttons in the World." It is a well known matter of history that Frobisber loaded 
his sbii^s with this ore, which, on bis return to England, jjroved to be but a black 
stone fiUed probably with iron pyrites. It was used only for filling up the London 
Docks, and for ballasting ships. The Merchant, Michael Lok, wha had pledged 
bis means and credit for tbe outfits of the first and tbe third expedition, was 
shut up in Fleet-street Prison and with bis fifteen childi'en hopelessly ruined. 

Hall brought home some of the like stone, a small quantity of which, loaned 
with other relics by the Smithsonian Institution, was included in the Arctic exhibit 
placed for the Naval Observatory in tbe Government building at the late United 
States Centennial. The ore is sometimes called Fool's Gold. 

III. The author of the latest account of Frobisher's voyages says 
of Hall : 

Nearly three centuries elapsed before the Countess's Sound and Island were 
again visited by an Anglo-Saxon, and he was an American. In 18Gl-'2 Captain 
C. F. HaU spent two years among the Eskimos. Tbe Countess's Island he found 
to be called Kodlunarn, or tbe island of the white man. The account he received 
from the natives of Frobisher's visits is a curious confirmation of the value of 
tradition among savage peoples. Captain Hall bad not then read any narrative 
of the Admiral's three voyages, and beard tbe traditions as a new and strange 
tale, which be was not then in a position to test or correct. 

He was told that the white men's ships had come, first two, then three, then 
many. The white men had taken away two of their women, who had never come 
back. j\Iany fragments of brick, tiles, iron, et cetera, were shown him. Beste's 
Bulwark was traced. The small liouse of lime and stone bad been well built, for 



Addenda to HaJTs Notes. 19 

Captain Hall found it after the three centuries, in a good state of preservation. 
They told him also how that their people had captured five of the white men ; 
that they had wintered among them. Then they showed him an excavation on 
Kodlunarn eighty-eight feet long and six feet deep, which the white men had dug, 
while on the shore was an inclined trench or slip. Here the five captive English- 
men, having dug up the buried timbers of the Fort, built a large boat, which had 
a mast in her, with sails. Their boat had proved to be a floating coffin; for, 
according to the natives, the Englishmen having finished their craft, set sail too 
early in the season ; some froze their hands in the attempt ; yet they had finally 
set out, and had never been seen afterwards. 

Such was the sequel of the story of the five Englishmen who had fallen vic- 
tims to their love of peltry during the first voyage of the ' Gabriel'; and thus were 
identified the island and long sought port of the third voj^age, where the first 
English Colony was attempted on the American Continent. (Life of Martin Fro- 
bisher, with a narrative of the Armada: Eev. F. Jones. London, 1878.) 

IV. In the excellent "Collection of Historical Tracts," made by the late Col. 
Peter Force, of Washington, to be found in the library of the State Department, 
may be seen the "Neues of Walter Raleigh"; in which tract is a very curious 
notice of Frobisher's voyages and of their influence on Thomas Cavendish, or 
"Candish," of London, in determining him, A. D. 1586, to set out on his voyage 
around the world. Cavendish was the second Englishman who made such a 
voyage. Drake, in 1578, had attempted to solve the i>roblem of the Northwest 
Passage, reaching lat. 48° N. only on the western coast of America. 



Lhapter 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE COMPLETED; HALL 
SAILS FROM NEW LONDON FOR ST. JOHNS. 

DECEMBER. 1862, TO JULY, 1864. 



CHAPTER II. 



Hali, lectures for his personal support and that of the two Eskimos — His care 
OF these people ; death of Tuk-ee-li-ivee ta — Friends gained for the Second Expe- 
dition — Plan of an Expedition submitted by Hall, March 17, 1863, to Mr. Grin- 

NELL AND E. H. CHAPELL, OF NeW LONDON, CONN. — HaLL'S PREFERENCE FOR A PLAN 

WHICH WOULD NOT INCLUDE WHALING FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES — EMBARRASSMENTS IN 

FORJDNG NEW FRIENDSHIPS— DETERMINATION TO GO OUT A SECOND TIME, EVEN FOR AN 
ABSENCE OF TEN YEARS — EXPECTATION OF FINDING NEW WHALING GROUNDS — CORRE- 
SPONDENCE ON THIS SUBJECT WITH MR. E. H. ChaPELL AND PROFESSOR BaCHE, SUPERIN- 
TENDENT United States Coast Survey — Disappointment as to assistance from thk 

LEGISLATURE AND FROM THE XeW YoRK CHAMBER OF COMMERCE— FAILURE TO OBTAIN 
A LOAN OF INSTRUMENTS FROM THE GOVERNMENT — CARD TO THE PUBLIC, POSTPONING 

THE Expedition to another year — Hall resumes work on the "Arctic Ee- 
sEARCHEs" — Lectures before the Long Island Historical Society — May, 1864. 

RENKWS his appeal, INDORSED BY LEADING CITIZENS— LOANS OF INSTRUMENTS — FliEi: 
PASSAGE TENDERED BY Mr. CHAPELL— HOSPITABLE RECEPITON AT NeW LONDON — SAILS 

FOR St. John's. 

His first expedition having secured an honorable place in history, 
Hall now entered upon a course of lectures, chiefly with the design of 
convincing the public of his probable success on renewing exploration; 
but with the additional reasons found in the necessity for securing 
support for himself and for his two Eskimo friends. He seems to have 
been carefully mindful of their welfare. "Everything," he wrote to 
Captain Budington, "must be done to protect the health of these peo- 
ple ; the assistance which I hope to receive from them on my sledge 
trip is too important for us to relax our exertions to have them com- 
fortable," For their benefit he accepted offers of compensation for 

23 



24 HalVs Lectures. 

their temporary attendance at museums in New York and Boston ; 
but, on learning their personal discomfort, incident to a close and heated 
atmosphere, he followed the advice of friends in refusing his consent 
for their presence at any other lectures than his own ; and this as more 
consistent with the character of his work. 

During the months of December, 1862, and January, 1863, lec- 
tures in Providence, Norwich, Hartford, New Haven, Hudson, Elmira, 
and other cities secured the attendance of large audiences. Among 
the prominent citizens of Providence who invited him to that city 
were Hon. H. B. Anthony, President Sears of Brown University, Hon. 
J. R. Bartlett, Prof J. B Angell, Gov. J. Y. Smith, Ex-Gov. E. Dyer, 
and Maj W. M. Rodman. 

After the Arctic lecture in Hartford, Professor Silliman indorsed 

Hall's work and his proposals for a new expedition by saying, in the 

Hartford Courant : 

Mr. Hall possesses inucU knowledge not fonnd in books, the fruits of liis 
own experience ; the discoveries he has made in the Polar Regions are regarded 
by geographers as of decided importance. Indeed, he did not himself realize 
that imi^ortance until since his return alter more than two years' exile. No civ- 
ilized man has, heretofore, been able to identify himself so completely with the 
Eskimos. Speaking their language and adoi^ting their modes of life and of 
voyaging, he is enabled to reach with safety, and even with comfort, regions 
hitherto deemed inaccessible. Old ]\Iartin Frobisher has become redivivus luider 
the very unexi)ected revelations now made. 

At these conversational lectures Hall traced on his maps of the 
localities he had visited, the tracks of the old voyagers Frobisher, 
Davis, Baffin, and others, as well as his own late explorations. The 
United States flag, loaned by Mr. Grinnell to the expediton of Dr. 
Kane, and borne by him so near to the Pole, was always saluted by 
tlie audience ; and the Eskimo family were objects of much interest as 



HaWs Lectures. 25 

among the first of their race who had domiciled in the United States. 
Too-koo-H-too showed an unexpected knowledge of the geograj^hy of 
her country, reminding Arctic students of the native woman IligUiik, 
and of her cliart drawn for Parry. The lecturer himself could not 
claim the polish or the ease of oratory, but as he handled his subject 
with tact as well as enthusiasm, he succeeded in securing close atten- 
tion on the part of the audience, and was read}^ to answer numerous 
inquiries. His friends regretted that, under a general rule against all 
pay lectures, the Smithsonian Institution could not give him the use of 
the audience room in which Kane and Hayes had lectured, for he had 
hoped to interest the officers of the Government at Washington, and 
obtain an appropriation, and had been encouraged towards this by 
prominent men. Pie seems to have been wholly unable to realize how 
small is the circle of the liberal for scientific purposes and how nar- 
rowed that circle was at the time by the war. He solicited the aid of 
the Hon. Henry Wilson, of the United States Senate, to obtain an ap- 
propriation by Congress of $25,000. 

The proceeds of the lectures were by no means encouraging. He 
had ])roof of their having secured many friends in eminent positions, 
Ijut as to the pecuniary gain "he was even worse off than when he 
started out." The necessary expenses generally devoured the pro- 
ceeds of admission fees, made low to suit the war times. Contrary to 
the general supposition, nothing at all adequate to the support of his 
Eskimos was ever realized from this source ; the contributions for them 
from Mr. Grinnell, however, exceeded six hundred dollars, and other 
generous friends not unfrequently volunteered their aid. 

In despite of discouragements. Hall still pushed forward his plans, 
publishing his first outlines of them in the columns of the New York 



26 Sanguine Hopes. 

Journal of Commerce, December 3, 1862 Very probably a sanguine 
temperament, excited sometimes by even a few strong words of sym- 
pathy from friends, prompted him to give unwarranted weight to such 
words. As a pictui^e of his feelings and of his way of recording his 
experiences, a single extract is given from a letter written at this date : 

"My heart is too full to record the happiness of a meeting to-night. 
Mr. Grinnell's whole family are so deeply devoted to my renewed 
expedition, that Mr. G. and his wife offer their son, now in the United 
States Navy, to go with me to King William's Land, and, if need be, 
he will contribute $10,000 to insure a research. 'There must be some- 
thing more done,' he said, 'in search of Franklin's Expedition."' "When 
England hears of this," Hall wrote to Budington, "I would not 
wonder if other expeditions should follow." This last expression 
wa;s made at a time when the English Government were adhering 
to their final refusal for all further search. The subject was not, 
indeed, revived in any official form until the unsuccessful proposi- 
tions of 1865 were discussed by the Royal Geographical Society, after 
Hall had asrain sailed. Had he not been sincere in his statements that 
his object was primarily the relief of Franklin's party, he would hardly 
liave laid this stress upon tlie hope that other expeditions would come 
out from England for the same object. 

His private note-books and diaries are trustworthy witnesses of 
the influences under which he brought his thoughts during this period 
of study and personal preparation. The following selections are taken 
from one of these books, which contain chiefly extracts and careful ref- 
erences to scientific authorities : 

Oiir greatest glory consists not in never falling, but in rising every time we 
fall, # * * Tiip (jucstion is not the number of fads ;i man knows, but 
how miicli of II lact he is himself. # * * Great personal activity at 




c:A4:^<-^ 



^^^C-A-^^t- 



From a photograph in the possession of Charles H. Grundy, Esq., New York. 



ndiityjie Printing Cv.. Sustun. 



Private Notes. 27 

times aud closely sedentary and severely thoughtful habits at other times, are the 
forces by Avhich men accomplish notable enterprises. They mature plans, after 
which, with energies braced to their work, they move to the easy conquest of 
difficulties accounted formidable. 

Some of these apothegms copied from a rare volume loaned to 
him by his friend Mr. J. D. Caldwell, of Cincinnati, are found em- 
phasized for his owm impress by being underscored almost word by 
word ; nor did he fail to note at length in his diary the sentiments of 
Professor Henry expressed in his communication to the Board of Re- 
gents of the Smithsonian Institution in 1857 in regard to his discoveries 
in electro-magnetism, that "he had freely given the results of his 
labors to the world,, expecting only in return to enjoy the conscious- 
ness of having added to the sum of human happiness." He noted 
down also the sentiment expressed by Smithson himself, that every 
man is a valuable member of society, who by his observations, re- 
searches, and experiments procures knowledge for men. 

To the encouragements offered by more able and influential friends 
were added those from Captain Budington and his wife, whose kindly 
messages from their humble home in Groton, Conn., were frequent, 
and were plainly effective on his spirits and on his labors. These at 
this time were very arduous. On the 27th January, 1863, he wrote 
to Budington from his quarters on Fourth street. New York, where he 
was "near the libraries and Mr. Grinnell : " 

There is sxich a vast amount of work on my hands that it becomes my duty 
to ask if it is possible for me to make arrangements by which you can again take 
the Eskimos into your family. Were it not that I iiave a book on hand, and also 
preparation for another voyage in four months from now, I would not ask this. 

At Elmira they had taken severe colds, and Hall foimd he could 
do nothing but nurse the sick, while in addition to his cares was the 



28 Conference for the Second Voyage. 

death of tlieir infant TuJi-ee-li-ke-ta, born to this Eskimo couple in 
Rescue Bay, September G, 1861. He records in liis journal his sym- 
])athy with the mother, who was herself thought to be near death, but 
who rallied and attended her child's funeral at Grotoii. The health 
of these people was excellent for some time after their arrival in the 
United States, but the chancre of food and of climate began sensibly 
to affect the '' ic}' children of the North." 

On the 17 til Maich, 1>>63, an anxiousl3'-awaited conference was 
held with Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Iv. H. Chapell, of the house of Will- 
iams ct Haven, at wliich Hall presented the following first notes for 
his second expedition: 

Proponed expedition to Boothia and King William'' a Land for the final determination 
of all the 7nii.<<tcriouN matters relative to Sir John Franlliu\s Expedition. 

I. A vessel of about LM»(» tons, to l»e fnniislied and pro\isioiie<I lor two years 
and six months, the same to be nnder my command. 

II. This vessel to be fitted out for whaling:, tlie object beinji to Iiave tlie 
whole expense of the expedition paid by the i)roceeds of whale bono and oil. 

III. This vessel to ;i"o on or before the 1st of June of tiie javsent year, to 
make direct for the north side (near the entrance of Frobisher's Hay), there to 
take aboard three or four Eskimos, with their wives, also sledges and dogs; then 
to make for Ilud.son's Strait ; thence to Hudson's Bay, west side, south of South- 
ampton Isliiiid: tlieiice ii|i llie cliininel of Sir Tlioiiiiis Howe's AVeleonie to l\e])ulse 
IJay. 

I\'. ll \\li;iles iire toiintl on the wiiy, to secure a« many as possible, yet no 
further delay to be allowed ilian will admit of getting into Kepul.se liay by or on 
the Ist of September of the same yeai" as starting. 

V. If it is jndge<l advisable unch'r certain contingencies Ibr tiic vcs.sel lo])ro- 
<eed at once to other whale grountls than that of Ivejnd.so Hay, she nuist d(» .so 
alter having lande<l me and my spe«'ial pait\ and (HiUit for land st rviee. to wit, 
for my exjx'dition from Ilepnise liay to King William's Laml. 

\'I. Tliree men from the Slates to In- my special party. li> wii : \\ alter (inn- 
nell. of New York; Frank Kogers, of New London, Conn., and \\illiam Stony, 



Plmis Submitted. 29 

of Groton, of the saDie State; also, to be of the same special party, the Eskimos 
Ebierbiug and Too-koo-li-too, whom I brought to the States, the latter to be my 
interpreter. 

VII. Sterry and a part of the natives I take from Frobisher's Bay, to be left 
at the head of Repulse Bay, in charge of a depot of provisions to be established 
there. Furtheimore, the duty of Sterry and the natives to hunt and capture 
seals and walrus, and barter with the natives around Eepulse Bay for walrus 
ivory. Polar bear, fox, wolf, and other skins, for the benefit of all concerned. 

VIII. A cheap frame house, to be constructed (portable) here in the States, 
the same to be landed at Kepulse Bay, and to be used there for storing provisions 
therein, and also as a residence and for headquarters. (Such houses are now 
used by whalers in IS^orthimiberland Inlet. 

IX. Providing such an emergency arise that I should he ohligcd to retreat from 
Boothia and King William's Land and seek provisions, and also for a place to 
recruit, I should be certain of finding the same at all times at Eepulse Bay depot. 

X. Occasionally to send an Eskimo friend, with sledge drawn by dogs, fi'om 
Boothia and King William's Land to headquarters at Eepulse Bay for anything 
that I might require. Without doiibt I shall have occasion to send to Eepulse 
Bay many packages of relics I may find of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. If I 
have the great good fortune to discover the Ships Erebus and Terror's i)apers, it 
will be my duty to accomjiany the same in their transport to Eepulse Bay. After 
seciiring these as treasures of untold value to the civilized world, I am then to return 
to King William's Land and Boothia and prosecute the search. Should I be still 
more fortunate, and should I find living among the Eskimos one or several of 
Sir John Franklin's men, my heart, overwhelming with unspeakable joy, will 
direct me then and there what is best to be done. 

XL Provisions of the most condensed character, such as pemmican, Bor- 
den meat, biscuit, desiccated meat, and vegetables, to be provided for the Eepulse 
Bay depot ; also, a proper quality of floiu', sea-bread, ammunition, guns, astronom- 
ical and other instruments, medicines, clothing, a Haklet boat, &c., &c., including 
proper articles for bartering with the natives and for compensating the services I 
may require of them ; perhaps it may be weU to atld wood and coal to these 
articles, the same to be used as fuel at Eepulse Bay headquarters. 

XII. By establishing headquarters at Eei^ulse Bay as indicated above, hav- 
ing there a whale-boat strongly constructed, and having there also Frobisher Bay 
Eskimos, there need to be no hinderance to the force employed on the vessel from prose- 
cuting to the fullest extent that branch of the expedition, to wit, whaling. 



30 Plans Submitted. 

XIII. Should such success be met with that the vessel becomes filled with 
whale oil and bone before I have completed my research for the object and at the 
point designed, the same to be reshipped by some other vessel to the States, or 

/ the vessel to be sent home, taking along my dispatches and such relics as I may 

have recovered ; said vessel to sail from the States the following spring for 
Eepulse Bay. 

XIV. The whole expenses of the expedition to be paid from the proceeds 
of the whaling branch, i^roviding the amount warrants it. 

XV. The expenses of the research department to be included in the first 
cost of the vessel, outfit, &c. 

XVI. This expedition to be known as "The Franklin Eesearch Expedition"; 
the minor details of it only to be understood by the parties most deeply interested. 

XVII. By having a boat's crew at Eepulse Bay headquarters shore-whal- 
ing could be prosecuted. One boat's crew might be made up of the natives. The 
policy of adopting this scheme could be determined on acquiring information of 
the natives at Eepulse Bay whether or not it is a good whaling ground. 

Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Chapell approved the general ideas pre- 
sented in this plan. It will be observed, however, that the returns for 
the proposed outlay were to be looked for from successful adventure 
in whaling, in which feature Hall was encouraged to place confidence 
b}^ conversations held a short time previously with his friends in New 
London. The outlay would involve the sum of $20,000, and the first 
ideas entertained at the meeting just named, limited the contributions 
for this object chiefly to the generous co-operation of Mr. Grinnell, 
Messrs. Williams & Haven, and Mr. Chapell. Notwithstanding their 
unquestionable sincerity and their mutual confidence in Hall, of whom 
Mr. Grinnell, at this meeting, said, " He is the man of all the world to 
be sent forth on the mission to solve the mysteries enshrouding the 
fate of Franklin's men," it could hardly be expected that these enthu- 
siastic hopes of immediate equipment could be realized. Mr. Grinnell 
had spent between £20,000 and £30,000 on the Franklin Relief Expe- 
ditions, and had already met with commercial reverses during the Avar, 



Hall will go Alone if he Must. 31 

amounting, at that date, it is believed, to nearly $500,'i00. It was no 
time for either of the commercial houses to take risks. 

Ten days later, Hall drew up in detail six new plans, differing in 
their estimates and in the question whether the vessel of the expedi- 
tion should be employed in whaling or in exploration only. On the 
first of these, which contemplated exclusively the search for Franklin's 
party and the object of geographical discovery, he indorsed, "If 
there were a possibility of raising the amount of $20,000 involved in 
this plan, it should be accepted and carried out "; on the second, which 
he called " The Combination Eesearch and Whaling Expedition", he 
indorsed, " Taking into consideration all the circumstances of the 
times, I believe this the most feasible.'" He strongl}^ expressed him- 
self, however, as unwillingly converted to the idea of the second plan, 
considering it distasteful to unite the object of whaling with the search 
for Sir John Franklin's party. 

Submitting the first plan to Mr. Grinnell as one to be exclusively 
in his name and at his cost. Hall received the unavoidable reply that 
he did not feel that his means would justify his investing the amount 
indicated. 

The four last propositions dispensed with the idea of providing a 
special vessel, and differed within themselves chiefly in regard to the 
numbers of the party who might go out in a whaler. Among many 
offers from those who proposed to share his voyage, was one from Mr 
Washington Peale, an artist of New York, whom Hall would gladly 
have had to accompany him. The sixth memorandum, which he 
called his "Last Alternative", provided for his going out alone in a 
whaler and being landed wherever the natives should be met -with, to 



32 HaWs Ability and Industry. 

make his way as best he could to Repulse Bay and thence to Boothia 
and King William's Land. 

His journal entry about this date, made after a series of disap- 
pointments during the day, has the significant paragraph : "Again I 
may say the want of luster on my habiliments precludes me from in- 
terviews with those from whom I would gain knowledge ; not so of 
Mr. Grinnell ; he knows I am poor, and yet he always treats me as if I 
were rich." It may here be noted that while Hall made like honorable 
exceptions in connection with the names of other generous friends, 
there is evidence that his scanty means at times produced the errone- 
ous impression on the minds of some that he was an ignorant person. 
He felt the lack of what, he says, makes men worthy of respect in the 
eyes of many. 

But although lacking in the culture that a collegiate course for 
which he had been prepared would have conferred, Hall had the 
advantages of a New England academic education, built upon the 
qualities of strong common sense, industry, and perseverance, and 
these had fitted him to grasp the subject he was pursuing. It ought 
further to be said that the ship captain with whom he sailed on his first 
voyage, unhesitatingly declared that he had made himself a fair navi- 
gator on the outward course, having availed himself of what opportu- 
nities he could command for receiving practical instruction in New 
York before sailing. On his return he had presented to Mr. J. Inger- 
soll Bowditch the corrections of a number of typographical and other 
errors in "The Navigator," which were adopted in the subsequent edi- 
tions, in regard to which corrections he had replied to an inquiry from 
Mr. G. W. Blunt by saying that " he had made them while working 
through l^owditch during a winter in the igloos." For reposing con- 



Inquiries as to Whaling. 3b 

fidence in his plans, his friends, therefore, had reasons at this time 
seemingly as solid as those which, at a later date, prompted the 
learned members of the National Academy of Sciences to say in their 
instructions for the Polaris Expedition — 

We have, however, full confidence not only in the ability of Captain Hall 
and his H^aval associates to make imi^ortant additions to the geograjihy of the 
Polar Itegions, but also in his interest in science and his determination to do all 
bi his power to assist in determining the scientific operations. 

If he was enthusiastic in the extreme, there was some method 
in his enthusiasm. It marks a strongly determined purpose that he 
should write in his private journal, in connection with his feelings as 
quoted above — 

I may record my opinion that I cannot succeed in getting the necessary co- 
operation of my countrymen to carry out my proposed exi^edition. God only 
knows my struggles. But, single handed and alone, I will yet accomplish my 
jmrpose — for I know it is a just and noble one — or die in attempting it. I will, 
if possible, get passage for myself, Ebierbing, and Too-koo-li-too in June next to 
Frobisher Bay. By degrees I will push northward and westward till I reach 
Ig-loo-lik, and thence to EepuLse Bay, and in time to Boothia and King William's 
Laud, the Meta of my aspirations. By this route it will take me three years to 
to reach King William's Land, three years to return — in all I shall expect to be 
absent ten years. 

His two cherished objects were to be as steadily pursued if he went 
alone as they could be were he fully equipped; and he was encouraged 
in the idea of securing substantial benefits to American whaling inter- 
ests by the replies received from New London, then vigorously pursu- 
ing that branch of industry. His inquiries of the whaling firms of that 
city had been in relation to the value of the whale oil and bone 
brought home in American ships from Davis Straits, Northumberland 

Inlet, and Hudson's Bay. 

S. Ex. 27 3 



34 Correspondence as to Whaling. 

Writing to Mr. R. H. Chapell, he said : 

You know tlie value of exploring expeditions, how they opened up the 
Spitzbergeu whale-fishery, and those of Davis Strait, Baffin's Bay, and Hudson's 
Bay. I am greatly in hopes of demonstrating to you on my proposed expedition 
that a channel exists north of Hudson's Strait and running eastwardly from Fox 
Channel, which will be found to abound in whales, and through this channel an 
American passage to Hudson's Bay will be found, the right to which England 
can never question. The grefxt area of our commerce should not be allowed to 
go down. 

He received the following reply : 

You ask of me some information relative to the important and growing- 
branch of the whale-fishery now prosecuted by American vessels in the waters 
west of Greenland and Baffin's Bay. Within the last six years this new ground 
has opened up a new and fruitful field for the enteriirise of our hardy seamen. 
From 184G to 1852 but one American vessel fished in these waters. She made 
six voyages, taking in all about 3,500 barrels of oil and 51,000 pounds of bone ; 
and from 1853 to 1858 five different vessels returned from these waters bringing 
75,000 barrels of oil and 115,000 pounds of bone, worth $130,000. 

Owing to the dangers of ice navigation and want of knowledge of the coun- 
try, the business on the whole had not to this time been profitable to those wlio 
prosecuted it. Since 1859 more energy has been displayed and greater risks 
inciu'red in following this trade. In 1800, two fine ships were fitted out from 
Fair Haven, Mass., at a large cost, for the exjiress purpose of pushing still far- 
ther west toward Fox's Channel or Hudson's Bay, where no American vessel had 
ever been, in search of a new and better whaling ground. 

Without accurate charts, in waters totally unknown, among much ice and 
strong currents, in short days and long nights, in fogs and gales of wind, with 
large compass variations, these adventurous navigators pushed their way and 
reached the longitude of 90° Avest, spent a winter there, when the thermom- 
eter fell to G0° below zero, obtained cargoes worth some $00,000, and returned 
to tlu; United States in 1801. 

At the present time there are fourteen American vessels engaged in whaling 
in these waters. Seven of these have passed the last winter there, and will bo 
expected home the coming fall with cargoes worth nearly $400,000. 

In the prosecution of this business we need, very much, good charts. The 



Correspondence with Professor Baclie. 35 

best I have ever seen were drawn by some of the intelligent Eskimos,* to 
whom the ships are often indebted for acts of humanity and kindness. The latest 
English charts and the reports of the Eskimos say that a new channel can be 
found leading from Baffin's Bay to "Fox's Furthest"; could this be proved by act- 
ual passage it would be of great use to our ships. I wish you every success in 
your proposed voyage, and have no doubt that it will redound to the advance- 
ment of business interest of our merchants and the enterprise of our people. 
Very truly, yours, 

E. H. CHAPELL. 

Contemplating a lengthened residence in the localities visited by 
the whalers, Hall expressed his purpose to reach all such as would 
appear to be promising for the extension of the whaling interests. 

How near at this date he sanguinely supposed himself to have 

arrived towards the maturity of his arrangements for setting out, may 

be learned from the letter which follows. It was addressed to one 

who had more than once expressed much interest in his plans, Prof 

A. D. Bache, the distinguished Superintendent of the United States 

Coast Survey : 

June 6, 1863. 

Dear Sir: Your favor of May 22d was duly received. I have tran- 
scribed a few lines from it : " If you will give a brief outline of your plan and 
state what observations you intend to make, and what instruments you have not, 
I will try as an individual to aid you, and I think that Professor Henry will do 
so too." 

In reply to this I will say : It is now arranged that I leave the port of New 
York on or about the 1st of July next, in a vessel of one hundred tons, the vessel 
specially selected and strengthened for ice navigation. On reaching the north 
side of Bay of Frobisher, lat. 62° 33' N., long. 05° 00' W., I take aboard four (4) 
additional Eskimos (I have now two (2) with me). These Eskimos are to be my 

*For some sketches of coast lino drawn by Eskimos for Hall, see chapters xii to xiv, 
1866-'69. For statistics of the whale-fishery of the region referred to, see Report of Prof. S. F. 
Baird, U. S. Fish Coniuiissiouer, for 1875-'7(), and U. S. Consul McDougall's tabular statements, 
Appendix No. VIII of tliis Narrative. 



36 Correspondence with Professor Bache. 

auxiliaries in connection with the few whites that go to make up my ship's 
comi)any. 

From Frobisher's Bay I drop down to Hudson's Strait, and sail westerly 
and northerly to the meridian of 72° west of Greenland, north side of said strait, 
and here commence explorations, getting data for filling up the now blank on the 
English and American charts between the meridian named and 75° west longitude. 
Between these meridians I shall And an extensive inlet trending north. This 
discovery will prove of great value to our commerce, as this inlet abounds with 
whales of the Mysticetus kind. I gained the information relative to this bay and 
its inhabitants from the Eskimos I met when exploring the so-called Frobisher 
Straits, which, you know, I determined to be a bay. 

This part of the coast completed, I pass to Fox Channel. On arriving to 
"Fox's Fmthest," lat. GG° 50' N., commence exploration and continue it to the 
Strait of Fury and Hecla. From Eskimo reports, I shall find a strait of great 
importance, for it is wide and abounding with some si>ecies of whales referred to. 
This strait connects Fox's Channel loith Davis' Strait. 

If I find the Strait of Fury and Hecla navigable (that is, clear of ice) shall 
push through it for Gulf of Boothia, and then turn to the north, exploring the 
west coast of Cockbui-n Island to the parallel of Bellot Strait. Having made 
the passage to and through the latter-named strait, shall turn to the south, coast- 
ing along the west side of Boothia Peninsula till I arrive to the latitude of King 
William's Land, the latter being the point of my destination. 

On completing my investigations here and on the Isthmus of Boothia Felix, 
relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, I shall make my way for Behring's 
Strait by way of the Straits of James C. Ross, Dease and Simpson, Dolphin and 
Union. If I am not able to penetrate through the Strait of Fury & Hecla, shall 
turn to the south to Eepulse Bay, drop anchor, and establish headquarters ; then 
from this point, by means of dogs and sledges, and the aid of Eskimos, shall 
make journeys to Boothia Isthmus and King William's Land. The voyage I pro- 
pose to make will extend over tliree years. 

Respectfully, 

C. F. HALL. 

The sanguine hopes expressed in this letter were, however, again to 
be disappointed. It is unnecessary to detail the continued embarrass- 
ments and rebuffs which brought this result; they had nearly culmi- 
nated when Hall made the journal entries which have been quoted. 



Disappointments. 37 

His insurmountable difficulties at the time may be referred to in brief 
as these : 

Although, at the instance of Judge Daly and of Mr. Waddell, the 
secretary of the American Geographical Society, its council had made 
two efforts to hold a conference with the Chamber of Commerce of 
New York to indorse the plans referred to, and secure pecuniary assist- 
ance for them, it was found impossible to get together a quorum of 
the Chamber for a hearing. A second disappointment was met with 
in the failure to secure, either from the Navy Department or from the 
Smithsonian Institution, the loan of instruments for the expedition. 
The Navy Department did not feel aiithorized to loan the public 
property for use by a private expedition. 'V\\q Smithsonian regretted 
that the magnetic apparatus furnished to Dr. Kane had been after- 
ward lost in Mexico; and in communicating this information added 
that "scarcely any results could be obtained, unless some one properly 
educated for the business of observation should devote his whole time 
to the instruments." The Institution inquired at considerable length 
whether Hall Avould not find it in his power to make extensive col- 
lections in natural history, as it possessed but little on that subject from 
Northeastern America. 

Hoping for assistance by a grant from the Chamber of Coumierce 
or by the City Council of New York, and encouraged by some dona- 
tions, Hall had anchored at the wharves of the city, on the same day, 
The Active, a schooner offered at a low price by his New London 
friends, and a yacht, presented by Capt IT. Robinson, of Newburg, 
N. Y., for the strengthening of which latter vessel lumber had been 
also contributed in Newburg, and a further most generous offer had 
been made for its e<piipment by ALessrs Poillou, of New York. He 



38 Card Issued. 

had also made an arrangement with Messrs. Harper, the generous pub- 
lishers of his forthcoming "Researches," by which he had leave to post- 
pone further work upon the volume until his return from his proposed 
voyage 

But the local embarrassments and the excitement growing out of 
the opposition to the enforcement of the Registration act, passed to 
secure the necessary enlistments of soldiery for the existing war, appear 
to have entirely withdrawn attention from all subjects of less moment 
than the engrossing war-topics, and to have closed off the increase of 
private contributions. Hall had met more than one citizen able and 
willing to put good wishes into the form of that practical aid for which 
New York is well noted; but they were restrained by such feelings as 
Horace Greeley expressed in strong terms when he said to him, "No 
other idea should now be entertained by any man who loves his coun- 
try except crushing the rebellion; when that is accomplished one might 
take hold of an Arctic expedition." The New London schooner was, 
therefore, returned to her owners, and the yacht Victoria, with the 
lumber contributed by Mr. John Biglow, was sold, that its proceeds 
might be invested for use during the next available season. The 
time necessary for preparing an expedition for the year 18G3 having 
now passed away. Hall, thus hopelessly hemmed in by obstacles 
as insurmountabk} as the ice-masses he had left two years before, 
devoted himself laboriously to the completion of his book, and ' issued 

the following card : 

New York, Jnhj 10, 18C3. 
To my Countrymen : 

Wliilc on my Arctic voyiioe of lS00-'r>l-'G2, I ])l;iniie(l another expedition for 

ISG.'J. On returnins to the States last September (1802) I stO]>])e(l at St. John's, 

Newfoundland, and there first learned that my country was engaged in war. At 



The Expedition Postponed ^o 18G4. 39 

once I felt there could be but slight hope of resuming my Arctic explorations at 
the time proposed. Arriving in the States, and spending a few weeks among 
friends devoted to Arctic explorations, I came to the conclusion to spare no exer- 
tions in preparing for my second expedition to the Arctic Seas. In my struggle 
to make the proper preparations I have labored long and perse veringly, the 
results ofttimes appearing hopeful of my ultimate success. I need only to refer 
to the stupendous obstacle (the American war) that has been constantly before me 
during all my labors; for the subject is absorbing the attention of the whole civil- 
ized world. I deeply regret to say that, owing to the want of sufficient means and 
the lateness of the season, I am now compelled to postpone my expedition till 
next year. In the mean time I shall i)roceed to prepare my narrative of my late 
voyage (1860-'Gl-'62) for pubbcatiou, and at the same time take such steps as will 
insure the necessary aid for my expedition to the Arctic Eegions, now postponed 
to the sirring of 1864. 

Hall's feelings in regard to the labor called for upon his book will 
be learned from a single expression in a letter of October 20, 1863: 
" I have been deeply engaged for weeks and months upon my chart, 
and yet am not done with it. I had rather make a dozen voyages to 
the regions of ice and snow than prepare one book for publication. I 
fear that months will be used up before I get through with my 
book"; — words which may recall a like saying accredited to Dr. 
Livingston, that he would rather again cross Africa than write his 
Expedition to the Zambesi. Kane, too, had said that the writing of 
his book was his coffin. Close application was, however, given to the 
" Researches." It was all that Hall could accomplish during the year. 

In the early part of the spring of 1864 direct efforts were renewed, 
but an application made to the legislature of the State of New York 
for an appropriation of S25,000 and an appeal to the Council of the 
city were alike unsuccessful. On the 5th of May, by invitation of Rev. 
Dr. R. Storrs, President of the Long Island Historical Society, Hall 



40 Appeal Renewed hy Friends. 

gave a conversational lecture on his Arctic experiences and his proposi- 
tion for a new expedition. The Eskimo family were pi-esent in their 
Arctic costume. The repetition of the invitation to lecture shows that 
the vote of thanks passed by the Society was designed to be more than 
a mere conformity to usage. 

Subscriptions soon after this began to l)e offered, and the follow- 
ing card appeared in the leading newspapers of the city : 

TO THE PUBLIC. 

Capt. C. F. Hall, who twenty months ago returned froni a two years and 
four months' exploration of the Arctic Eegion, intends to set sail on the 15th of 
June for another and more thorough voyage of discovery. During his former 
voyage he lived among the Eskimos, acquired their language, and satisfied him- 
self that he can live with these people in safety and health. He is prepared as no 
other exjilorer has been before him for making a thorough investigation of the 
important portion of Arctic land and water to which he proposes to devote 
himself. 

This region still holds an imjiortant portion of the secret of the ill-fated 
Franklin Expedition, viliich our countryman confidently expects to lay bare. It 
is, moreover, of value to our whaling and sealing' interests, and the i*eports on its 
natural history will possess scientific value. These considerations, which have led 
him to devote the best years of his life to Arctic research, induce also those whose 
names are appended to this notice to ask their fellow-citizens to join them in pro- 
curing for tlu; brave explorer such an outfit as shall set him fairly on his way, and 
enable him to iiciibrm thoroughly the task which he has set for himself. Our 
countrymen have won au honorable fame by their courage and endurance in Arc- 
tic research. It is, therefore, not fit that one who has already shown such i)ersc- 
verance, fortitude, and ingeiuiity in his previous voyage as Captain Hall has done, 
shall be permitted to leave our shores lacking anything which can further his 
laudable object. The proposed exploration has enlisted the sympathies of our 
most prominent scientific men, especially geographers, as well as enterprising 
whaling (inns. It slioiild be niuleistood (liat Captain Hall lakes with him no 
sailing-vessel, hut on arriving at the scene of liis labors will leave the ship which 
bears liim there, and trust to (he hospitality of the Eskimos. 




^$X<C< CZ^V^r^fr^^ ^^ 



/, 



<f<x 



From a photograph. 



IJHiotype Printlnff Co., Ji^jatun. 



Encouragements. 41 

He believes that the acquisition of the log, chart, and scientific documents 
of the Franklin Expedition, Avhich lie hopes to find, will be of great importance; 
that probably the most extensive series of observations on terrestrial magnetism 
had been made by the expedition before they abandoned their ships. He expects 
to return in about three years. 

In order to complete the outfit, a sum of about $3,000 is yet required, and 
while it is Captain Ilall's intention to sail at any rate, whether thoroughly fitted 
or not, it is hoped that our public-spirited citizens will not permit this intrepid 
explorer to depart from our city lacking anything which can help to preserve his 
Mfe or enable him to perfect his explorations in the inhospitable regions to which 
he is bound. 

Subscrii)tions in money, or donations in kind of supplies, or goods for the 
expedition, may be handed to any of the undersigned, who will see that they are 
properly applied in aid of this praiseworthy enterprise. 

J. CAESON BEEVOORT. 

JAMES W. BEEKMAN. 

A. W. BUEE. 

IIENEY GEINNELL. 

E. & G. W. BLUNT. 

JOHN AUSTIN STEVENS. 

The press of the city of New York in strong language indorsed 
this appeal, and public sentiment began to show itself, more cordially 
and favorably. Under the influence of the names cited, and of those 
of other citizens of high standing, such as C3a'us W. Field, Peter 
Cooper, Augustus Ward, Prof R. S. Newton^ and j\Iarshall Lefferts, 
some liberal collections of moneys were secured, sufficient to com- 
plete a moderate outfit. 

The U. S. Coast Survey Office contributed the loan of a sextant 
and a dip circle. The nautical and mathematical instrument makers, 
Messrs. Negus, Stackpole & Brother, Bliss & Co., Tagliabue, Eggert 
& Son, and Pike & Son, very cordially supplemented the list by dona- 
tions; while other merchants as readily responded, accompanying their 



42 A Free Passage Offered. 

contributions with pleasant words, and tendering to Hall the oppor- 
tunity of his own selection from their stock. 

Mr. R. H. Chapell, of New London, already quoted as Hall's firm 
friend, now cordially oifered to him a free passage in his whaling brig 
Monticello, which expected to sail for Hudson's Bay about the 15th of 
June. In ISC'O, Mr. Chapell was in the employ of Messrs. Williams & 
Haven, when that firm so generously assisted Hall by their gift of a 
free passage in the George Henry. He was now a shipping merchant 
on his own account. In forwarding his offer to Hall, he wrote, "I shall 
make no charge or receive any compensation from you for the passage 
of yourself and Eskimo friends in the Monticello, appreciating your 
zeal in a good cause, and being much interested personally in all that 
pertains to the icy regions." In this connection it is proper to state 
also, from personal testimony of the masters of the whalers belonging 
to these New London firms, that their contributions were by no means 
limited to the matter of free passage. Throughout both of Hall's expe- 
ditions these vessels, which had their fishing stations and also win- 
tered near him, frequently supplied his necessities, in accordance with 
the expressed or well-known wishes of their employers. They also 
took out, gratuitously, supplies sent by Mr. Grinnell and others. 

Hall was now ready to sail. On the 30th of June, accompanied 
by Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, he arrived at New London, and was 
cordially received by its citizens, the proprietor of its chief hotel, with 
others, extending him full hospitalities. Embarking on the Monticello 
on the following day, the party were watched by hundreds of people 
us the sliij) went down the harbor, and were cheered by the United 
States gunboats, iasco and Marblchcad, wliose riggings were manned 



w 

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o 
o 

o 

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o 

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Tlie Farewell at New London. 43 

and flags clipped. The Monticello, under the command of Capt. E. 
A. Chapel, of Hudson, N. Y., was a staunch whaler of 35() tons regis- 
ter, engaged in the whaling business from the date of her being 
launched, 1842 : she carried four large boats, besides her spare-boats 
and Hall's Expedition whale-boat. She was accompanied by the 
Tender, Helen F.,a craft of about 100 tons, carrying two boats. 

Those who bade Hall farewell at this hour of his second departure 
from home for the execution of his long-cherished purposes, when they 
left him on their return to the harbor, made this record, "He is full 
of hope, never desponding ; has firm trust in Him who doeth all things 
well, and is marked for his steady perseverance and integrity ; prompt, 
truthful, and of undoubted reliability, he readily makes friends by his 
whole-souledness, and those who meet him once are happy to renew 
the acquaintance." 

Hall's own feelings are tersely expressed in a letter written on 
board the Monticello, July 13, when nearing the port of St. John's. 
He wrote : 

I have now a work before me that might make some shudder to undertake. 
It is a great undertaking for one man, I will confess ; but, having once put myself 
in the course, I must and will persevere. I hope by the aid of Heaven to succeed, 
and at the end of three years I shall return to my friends, who may rejoice that 
they withheld not in the time of my great need. During the passage to this port 
I have felt httle Uke work, for I may say it has been the first resting spell I have 
had for years. 

His correspondence was closed by the coiTections of the last 
proof-sheets of his volume on the researches of 1 860-62, the preface 
to which was dated on board the Monticello. His acknowledgments 
were again gratefully tendered to Messrs. Harper, who at the time 
when he had supposed himself ready to return to the North, had 



44 Donations Acknowledged. 

consented to the suspension of the work, although advance payments 
had been made* Under the advice of a firm friend, Mr. C. Nordhoff, 
then one of the editors of the New York Evening Post, Rev. 0. II. 
Dutton had assisted in its comjjletion, 

* A list of tlio donations received iu New York and New London was also sent from the 
Monticello to the New York press, as follows : 

Donations from Xew York. — Peter Cooper, condensed provisions; G. C. Baker, nantical in- 
struments ; H. S. Racket & Son, transportation of powder free to New London on board the 
schooner Dr. Franklin, S. J. Geer, master; H. Dalley, pain extractors; R. Keith & Co., concen- 
trated medicines; Miles & Holmaii, hominy, samp, split pease, farina, tfec. ; Knox, hats; D. C. 
Morehead, M. D., magnetic jdasters; W. S. Moldrum, sugar; G. F. Nesbit, binding journal and 
books for the Arctic Expedition ; Reynolds, Pratt & Co., chamois skins, &c. ; T. F. Brett, seine, 
twine, &c. ; Letourncur & Co., pure liquors; Philip Dater & Co., groceries; Colgate & Co., 
soap; B. S. Osborn, sundries; G. P. Philes & Co., "Coat's Geography of Hudson's Bay," a rare 
and valuable work ; Adams Express Company, kindness of John Hoey, who sent everything 
free from New York to New London; Guiseppe Tagliabue, barometer and thermometer maker; 
The Hazard Powder Company; M. P. Brown, importer of beads; W. C. Marshall, condensed 
meats; Prof. R. S. Newton, M. D., medical stores and surgical instruments; H. W. Hunter, night 
compasses, &c. ; Thomas H. Bate & Co., fish-hooks; The New York Lead Company, Thomas Otis 
Le Roy Lead Company, and McCullough Lead Company, shot and balls ; American Desiccating 
Company; D. Eggert & Son, chronometer nuvuufacturers ; Benjamin Pike & Son, astronomical 
instrument makers ; The American Bank Note Company, journal books of bank-note paper and 
anti-freezing ink; Samuel L. Mitchell, desiccated vegetables; George C. Hubbell & Co., golden 
bitters; F. L. Kueeland, Dupont's gunpowder; Lamson & Gooduow, cutlery; J. H. Brower, 
Borden meat-biscuit ; Stackpole & Brother, nautical instrmnents ; Barton, Alexander & Waller, 
liercussiou caps, &c. ; Anniu & Co., flags; McKesson & Robbins, drugs and medicines; Tomes & 
Sons & Melvain, importers of guns; Theodore Polhemus, jr., & Co., dealers in cotton sail duck; 
John Bliss & Co., manufacturers and dealers in nautical instruments; J. & J. C. Conroy, dealers 
in nets ; A. A. Low & Brothers, importers of tea ; James M. Dietz, lamp manufacturers ; Thomas 
L. Negus & Co., chronometer and nautical instruments; Goodyear's India Rubber Comi)any, 
India-rubber goods; O. B. Gray, India-rubber goods; E. & G. W. Blunt, nautical instruments, 
charts, &c. ; Conolly & Co., wholesale tobacco dealers; Augustus H. Ward, an order on Tiffany 
& Co. for a lirst-class pocket chronometer; telegraph, express, steamboat, and railroad companies 
for the freedoTu of their lines. 

Donations from Xcw London. — F. L. Allen, drugs, «fec. ; D. B. Heuijjstead, fancy articles and 
jewelry; Shcppard A Harris, clothing; Harris, Williams &. Co., hardware; Smith &, Grace, tin- 
ware; Anson Cli.ice, gun-materials; N. D. Smith, stationery; H. P. Freeman, projirietor of the 
Metropolitan Hotel, hosintalities. 



Chapter TTT. 



FROM ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND, TO WINTER QUAR- 
TERS ON THE WELCOME. 

JULY 18 TO OCTOBER 1, 1804. . 



45 



CHAPTER Til. 



Arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland— Departure for Hudson's Bay— Passage through 
THE Straits — Exciting capture of two Polar bears — The Monticello lands Hall 
AT Depot Island, and cruises for whales — A white man hired from the whalers — 
The Helen F. takes Hall's party toward the Wager Eiver ; mistakes the lati- 
tude, LANDING them FORTY MILES SOUTH — TeNTS SET UP AND CACHE JIADE — FiRST 

meeting with the Innuits from Eepulse Bay — Inquiries made of them as to 
Franklin's Expedition — Change of the season — Eemoval of tupiks — The Innuits 

COLLECT THEIR FUR DRESSES — THEIR FREQUENT VISITS TO HaLL'S TUPIK — SNOW-DRIFTS — 

Wolf-tracks — Snow-partridges — Construction of an igloo — Winter quarters. 

Captain Chapel expected to reach St. John's on the 13th, but 
heavy fogs and a strong north by east wind, with rain following, com- 
pelled the ship to lie off the mouth of the harbor for several days ; 
further delay being occasioned by the difficulty experienced in shipping 
the complement of the crew. When the captain went ashore for this 
purpose, Hall accompanied him, and during his stay until the 1 8tli was 
the recipient of many tokens of kindness from the citizens, among 
whom were friends of his first expedition. His letters to Mr. Brevoort, 
Mr. Grinnell, and others speak with thankfulness of these attentions, 
and especially of those shown by U. S. Consul Leach, in securing for 
him further necessary additions to his outfit. They exhibit some 

47 



48 



Departure from St. John's, Newfoundland. 



[July, 1S64. 



natural restlessness under the unexpected delay of sailing. With the 
expectation of dating his next letters from Hudson's Bay, he succeeded 
in leaving St. John's on the 1 8th of the month. 



I'l ," 

^ I I 



||V 



I Nil 



'I 

I I 

I III, 







o 

Pi 



o 



3 
o 



Icebergs were first met in lat. 50° 48'. On the 28th, at 9 a. m., 
Cape Chidley and Button Islands were in sight, and later in the day 
Hudson's Straits were entered. The Monticello shaped her course for 



August, 1S64.] Passage through Hudson's /Straits. 49 

Resolution Island, known by the Eskimos as " Todjon.'" Much float- 
ing ice was passed through. Hall improved the delay in the ship's 
course by taking the bearings of the prominent headlands along the 
shores of the old ^'Meta Incognita" of Queen Elizabeth, Across the 
strait through which they were sailing lay to the north his discov- 
eries of the Frobisher relics in 1862. 

From the first of August to the 20th, the ship and her tender passed 
through the changing experiences of Arctic navigation. Her course 
was kept within fifteen to twenty miles of the land. The first days of 
the month were calm, offering opportunities for securing game on the 
ice-floes which studded the strait. Hall and Eskimo Joe shot a num- 
ber of oApfl5, the white web-footed sea-fowl so often found clustering 
on Arctic cliffs. The petuJarks, dove-kies, proved too shy. Seals were 
seen at a distance. 

Grinnell Glacier — first seen and named on Hall's visit of August 
21, 1860 — mirrored itself in the spaces of open water. It faded from 
sight on the bright morning of the 7th. The long and uniform range 
of white mountains on the north, the Terra Nievia of the old naviga- 
tors, arrested the attention of all on board the Monticello. 

The ship's log of each day, as would be expected, showed much 
the same record. For a few hours she worked onward under some- 
thing of a favorable breeze ; or else it was tack, tack, one hour on 
one course and the next upon the other, the wind dead ahead. At 
times she bored her way through the pack ice, or she met an impassa- 
ble barrier athwart her course, and then made fast to an iceberg or 
floe, tying up thus usually at night. While very slowly nearing an 

ice island on the evening of the 1st, her iron-plated bows had struck 
S. Ex. 27 4 



50 Chase of two Polars. lAugust, i8e4. 

so heavily on a hummock that her crew were in waiting to jump from 
her. On the 16th, a gale springing up from the north and veering to 
the northwest, forced the Monticello under close reef, splitting the 
topsail, the sea sweeping the decks. 

During the intervals of fair weather the American whalers had 
the pleasure of exchanging courteous visits with three of the ships be- 
longing to the Hudson's Bay Company — the Prince of Wales, with 
seventy-five passengers on board, the Prince Arthur, and the Ocean 
Nymph. These vessels had left Stromness, in the Orkneys, on the 2d 
of July. One of them had been within the straits six days. They 
had all been sighted at a short distance to the westward the evening 
before the visits, the opportunity for which was occasioned by the 
dead calm which had detained them. 

Hall's voyage was not long without the excitement incident to the 
sight and chase of the bear and the walrus. Walruses were seen at 
some distance basking, as is their custom, on the ice. As the Monti- 
cello passed near, they raised their ferocious heads to gaze a little while 
at the ship, and then rolled over into the sea. 

The chase of several Polars was of more interest. One seen by 
the crew of the Helen F., though at first close by, made a most respect- 
ful distance before the guns could be loaded ; and, although swift 
chase was given by the dingy, bruin gained a long piece of ice and 
bounded off upon it beyond all possibility of capture, leaving on the 
ice, parts of the seal on which he had been breakfasting. The Mon- 
ticello was more fortunate, securing two large Polars on the same day. 
Hall's journal of August 3 says that at 5 a. m. he was aroused from 
sweet slumbers by the voice of Chester, who had come down from his 



August, 1864.! A Bear Captured. 51 

morning watch "thundering in the companion way, 'White Bear! 
Wliite Bear!'" In a few moments the glass showed from the deck a 
huge Polar ; and the mate, with Hall and Ebierbing, started with a 
stalwart crew, who were quickly over the ship's side. Chester steered. 
Hall and Ebierbing, with loaded rifles (the gifts of Mr. Chapell, of New 
London), were in the boat, and five pairs of oars " pulled lustily as for 
dear life." Bruin was nearly a mile off, but though every effort was 
made to keep to the leeward, he showed that he scented his pursuers 
when they had passed over but a fourth of that distance, by his shuf- 
fling to and fro on the ice and by throwing up his head, shaking it at 
them, roaring furiously, and showing his tusks; with intervals of quiet 
gaze at the boat. At the outset, Eberbing pronounced the animal to 
be one of the largest of its kind, and a male; calling it an Anjujua 
Commenting in his journal on the acuteness of the Innuits in discrim- 
inating the signs and habits of the animals of their country. Hall 
notes Ebierbing's quickness in deciding the sex and character of this 
bear from its size and its yellowish-white color. He showed further 
tact by frequent lusty shoutings, in order to arrest the progress of 
Ninoo after he had dropped himself stern foremost into the water, and 
had commenced swimming at the rate of full six knots an hour. Ninoo 
by his delay in turning around nearly his whole huge body gave his 
pursuers much advantage. At the distance of 50 yards, on Ebier- 
bing's making the first shot at his head, which alone was above water. 
Polar instantly dropped, and his huge carcass floated lifeless. The 
crew, making it fast, towed it back to the Monticello within thirty 
minutes from the time they had set out on the chase, and in a few 
moments more, with pulleys and hemp, landed him safe on deck. 




POLAR NO. 1. 

Hall proceeded to sketch the animal and to note his measure- 
ments, the chief of which were : 

Weight, estimated by Chapel, Chester, and Hall 1,100 lbs. 

Length from snout to tail 8 ft. 

Length from snout to shoulder joint 3 ft. 

Length from heel of hind leg to top of rump 3 ft. 5 in. 

Circumference of the head before the eyes 3 ft. 

Circumference of the neck 3 ft. 8 in. 

Circumference of the middle 7 ft. 4 in. 

Circnmference of the fore leg below the knee and of the fore paw, each. 2 ft. 3 in. 

Length of the tail .'5.;V in. 

Length of front teeth 7 in. 

Length of molars I in. 

[Barentz, in \f)dG, killed two bears on Cherie or Beare Island, near 



I 



August, 1864.] A Second Bear Captured. 53 

Spitzbergen, the skin of one of which measured 12 feet, and of the 
other 13 feet] 

Ebierbing scarcely gave himself time to finish with the assistance 
of two of the crew, the work of skinning and cutting up this animal, 
before he was at the ship's side, glass in hand, on the sharp lookout for 
a second. At 2.30 p. m. he esj^ied one fast asleep about two miles dis- 
tant, and Captain Chapel consented to the delay of luffing and again 
sending out a crew, as he found the ice closely and heavily packed in 
the ship's way. After a pull of two miles the same party approached 
their new game — this time within thirty yards — and Ebierbing was 
again the first to fire. Ninoo No. 2, however, took to his heels and 
was soon out of sight beyond the hummocks, and, as the floe was quite 
large, it was scarcely to be exjjected he would be again seen. But the 
crew, by sharp pulling, reached an open- water space on the opposite side, 
and, on inspecting closely every piece of ice, at last espied Ninoo stand- 
ing erect facing them, pawing the snow, and fiercely roaring. Ebierbing 
again fired and again the animal bounded into the water. Heading him 
off", and following closely through the floes, the marksman fired ten more 
shots, but still without fatal eff'ect. At times springing upon the loose 
pieces of ice, and again spurning these with his feet as he plunged into 
the deep, the animal at last rested on his haunches on a hummock, his 
whole frame quivering from the effects of the shots. He struggled hard 
with death, at one moment sitting up, with head erect and quiet, and the 
next stnking it in the most terrific manner first with one paw and then 
with the other; and roaring till, as Hall says, "the very ice mountains 
seemed to quake." But Ebierbing, by a well-directed shot at the brain, 
ended this second piteous scene, and, advancing cautiously and touch- 
ing the carcass with his ramrod, pronounced the bear dead, though 



54 Bear-Meat and Bear-Oil. [August, i864. 

no sooner had he said it than Ninoo gave one more convulsive leap. 
He then fell lifeless. 

The number of shots fired is not beyond what is usually found 
necessary. Hall, recalling the experiences of his first voyage, says he 
had sometimes thought that the bear exemplifies the old saying of the 
cat's nine lives, for ball after ball is often put through the head, and the 
bear drops down as often seemingly lifeless, yet in a few moments off 

again he trots. 

Polar No. 1 was found to be immensely loaded with fat, " covered 
with a complete blanket of it, five inches thick on the rump ; the en- 
trails entirely encased with fat." The paunch was empty. This Ebier- 
bing explained by saying, ''When Ninoo get fat he no eat any more for 
two or three months; " an empty paunch is, therefore, no sign that he 
is hungry. The skin, the fat, and the meat were saved. The whole of 
the inwards, except the fat covering, was thrown into the sea The 
Innuits never eat anything from the inside of the bear. Steaks of 
juicy, red meat were welcomed by the crew, and Hall says better beef 
could not be had in the States. These last remarks accord with what 
Scoresby, in his Account of the Arctic Regions, says, viz, that he once 
treated his surgeon to a dinner of bear's ham, and he knew not for a 
month afterward but that it was beefsteak. The liver is hurtful, while 
the liver and flesh of the seal, on which the bear chiefly feeds, are 
nourishing and palatable. Sailors who have inadvertently eaten the 
liver of the bear have sickened ; some have actually died. These ill 
effects liave not, however, been always the experience of Arctic sailors. 
The amount of oil obtained from the two bears was over seventy 
gallons ; all the blubber was cut up to make it. Usually the Eskimo 
women do this part of the work, but Too-koo-li-too had never practiced 



RIL 2 7^^ TO JUNE 5^^ 1865 



loa-oo'-li't I. 

^j^^r"""^"!',,^ ' '>Ws 






'J:.7'T'^.^ 



^-^ 



^^KingsCape 

S all sbury 



V \NoUing>iaTn I. 








^fo^ThcBoatsytere left Txc-re 
^■. I -sTtso; I 




Cape Hope % 



















^C. Mercy 



"LadyTVaxililin I. 



J^.'-Hall I. 

■••■ioksLand 



-:6b° 



CBest 



-^ 



UJi'GAVA BAY 



■UandPl^ 



A B 



R 





DOR 



OutwaroL T-r€u:\ in 286i. 

Home-wa-rcL Trcuik zn. 1869. 

t'""i' '' '" ii ' I' ' I 




7 5° 



7 0° 



6 5° 



60° 



VrOUNDLAND TO WHALE POINT. 1864. 
JLSE BAY TO ST. JOHNS 1869. 



Angnst, 1864.] CouYse of (lie Skip. 55 

it. The oil was sweet and pellucid. By the light from some of it, 
Hall wrote his next journal entries. In the paunch of the second bear 
about six gallons of seal-oil had been found. 

From the entrance of the straits the course of the Monticello had 
been run between 60° 59' N. and 63° 47' N. The last-named latitude, 
made August 10, was found to be considerably north of where the ship's 
dead-reckoning placed her ; she had been swept out by the current. 
From the 7th to the 20th the log gives the longitude reckonings, 69°, 
70° 40', 72° 33', 75° 08', 84° 27', 85° 30', 88° 40', 90° 20', 89° 40' ; 
on the 20th, 89° 56' W. Compass variation, 41° W. 

On the 12th, under favor of a south-southeast wind and a strong 
current, the ship had made the most rapid advance of any part of her 
course ; Nottingham and Salisbury Islands, which had been on her 
starboard all day, being suddenly swept by and left far in the distance. 
It was now learned that the passage of the straits had been much more 
successfully accomplished by one of the ships of the Hudson's Bay 
Company, the Prince of Wales, which, according to her log, had made 
it in less than six days. 

Eight days after, the Monticello, having completed her run across 
the bay, anchored at Depot Island, in lat. 63° 47' N., long. 89° 51' W. 
The Eskimo name of this island is Pik-e-u-lar ; its English name had 
been given to it by Captain E. A. Chapel on a former voyage. 

Hall was much disappointed that the vessel did not proceed 
directly to Marble Island, her original destination. He had hopes of 
doing some good work there by carefully determining the geograph- 
ical position of the island, and had a second object in view. Remem- 
bering the fate of the expedition under Knight and Barlow, sent out 



66 Expedition of Knight and Barlow. LAugust, i864. 

in 1719, some of the wrecks of whose vessels were found fifty years 
afterwards upon this island, he wished to explore it for relics of that 
expedition* which might yet possibly be found. In Hearne's Travels 
he had seen the statement that the remains of the houses built by this 
party, as also the hulls of the ship and sloop were visible for many 
years below the waters. 

He was at first landed with Ebierbing and To-koo-li-too on Depot 
Island. Mate Chester, who accompanied them, estimated the whole 
weight of his boat and outfit at only 1,400 pounds. The boat, built 
by Rodgers of New London, was but 28 feet in length, with 5 feet 10 
inches beam, and 26 inches depth. The mate and crew returned on 
board the Monticello, and when, soon afterward, she left the harbor on 
her first cruise for whales, the party on the island began their five 
years' Arctic residence. A tent was erected on the western side, and 
some observations were made for determining the position and for 
marking out the adjacent coast line. On the 22d, the first game 
secured, footed up for the day nine petularks and one goose. 

During the week whicli followed, several vessels, and among them 
the Tender, Helen F., were sighted, apparently working their way up 
to Rowe's Welcome ; and although the fog at one time hid them from 
view. Hall was only the more delighted to find on the 23d the brig 

* Sickness aiul famine occasioned such havoc among the English that hy the setting in of 
the second winter their number was reduced to twenty ; and on the Eskimos visiting Marble 
Island again, in the summer of 1721, they found five of the English only alive, and those in such 
distress for provisions that they eagerly eat the seal's flesh and whale's blubbe)- quite raw as they 
purchased it from the natives. This disordered them so much that three of them died in a few 
days ; and the other two, though very weak, made a shift to bury them. These two survived 
many days after the i-est, and frequently went to the top of an adjacent rock and earnestly looked 
to the south and cast as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After continuing 
there a considerable time, and notliiTig appearing in sight, they sat down close together and 
wept bitterly. At length one of the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted that 
he fell down and died also ichilc atUmpliiKj to dig a (/rare for his companion. — (.Journey from Prince 
of Wales' Fort, in Hudson's 15ay, to the Northern Oc(>an, 1707-1772, by Samuel llearne. Inlrod., 
p. xxxi.) 



August, 1864.] A White Man Hired. 57 

Isabel and the bark Concordia, and on the 25th the Helen F., snugly 
anchored west of the island. The captains of these vessels went 
ashore and expressed their kindly interest in Hall's purposes, offering 
him also comfortable accommodations on their ships if he should com- 
plete his work before the expiration of their cruises. Capt. H. Y. 
Chapel, of the Tender, spent much of the day on Hall's ''flag-staff hill," 
from which he had sighted the ships while making his observations. 

He now secured his first assistant. Charles Rudolph, a German, 
one of the crew of the Isabel, having learned Hall's wish to employ 
a white man as a companion on the expedition, volunteered to go 
with him and went ashore for an interview, bearing high recommenda- 
tions from his officers. He had spent one previous winter among the 
Innuits. He was very closely questioned in regard to what he knew 
of Innuit life and what trials he supposed he would have if he went on 
this intended journey of from two and a half to three years, and his 
replies were so satisfactory that, taking them in connection with the 
recommendation of his officers (Mr. Gardner, the second mate, being 
an old acquaintance), Hall had no hesitation in accepting the proposal. 
The experience of his First Expedition had taught him that "the man 
from the land of civilization who should accompany him, must be one 
whom he well knew, and one that would face disappointments, depriva- 
tions of food without a murmur, endure with stout heart storms, cold, 
and hard labor without flinching, and be truthfully obedient and trust- 
worthy every way." Before setting out, he had refused many appli- 
cations from persons in the United States and Canada, under the feel- 
ing that unless he knew them intimately he might regret having taken 
a companion when it would be too late for a remedy. It may be 
remarked in passing that the letters containing such applications found 



68 Whalers at the Island. lAngnst, i864. 

among Hall's papers and dating within the years 1860-62, as well as 
the future history of other like cases, justify the precaution he took. 

Before taking Rudolph into his service he told him, in Mr. Gardner's 
presence, the very darkest and hardest side of the story as to the life 
he must lead if he went to King William's Land, asking him also if he 
were aware that perhaps they would starve, or be killed by the 
Innuits. But Rudolph answered that he could endure what any one 
else could, and could stand it as well as Hall ; and if they should find 
no chance of escape, a man would have to die but once, and, therefore, 
he was not afraid to go. A contract was then made for the term of 
three years, at a compensation of $25 per month, with the promise of 
a much larger sum if the objects of the expedition should be secured; 
and to complete the papers properly required in the case, Captain 
Parsons of the Isabel, received from Hall a copy of the contract, to be 
shown, if necessary, at the custom-house in New London on the 
return of the brig. 

On the 26th, Mr. Gardner recorded for Hall his observations for 
the day, which included some lunar distances. 

On the 27th, no fewer than eight whalers, the Cornelia, George and 
Mary, Concordia, Morning Star, Isabel (brig), and Isabel (schooner), 
with the Monticello, and her Tender, were all at anchor. The officers 
and men of these vessels very kindly added some useful things to 
Hall's small outfit, and promised their assistance whenever it should be 
in their power. The Morning Star, leaving her anchorage for Cyrus 
W. Field's Bay, received a copy of Hall's chart of Frobisher Bay. 
The next day the crews of the Monticello and Helen F. were engaged 
in towing the former vessel to the place selected for her winter quarters. 



Angnst, 1864.] HoU Landed at Whale Point. 59 

At 11.30 a. m. of the 29th the anchor of the Tender was catted, and 
Capt. H. Y. Chapel sailed with Hall, his two Eskimos, and his new 
employ^, Rudolph, under instructions from the captain of the Monti- 
cello, to convey them to Wager River. From this point they were to 
proceed in the boat to Repulse Bay, where Hall expected to winter 
and prepare for his sledge journey to King William's Land in the 
spring. Three of the whalers accompanied the Helen F. out of the 
harbor, one of which, the Isabel, bound homeward, took letters to the 
United States, including some from Too-koo-li-too to Miss Sylvia 
Grinnell, (now Mrs. Captain Buxton, R. N.), and to Mrs. Budington. 

The Tender left her anchorage with a light breeze from the north- 
east; but the wind soon veering to the south and freshening, she made 
from four to six knots per hour toward Cape Fullerton. While cross- 
ing an inlet which Hall named after Captain Chapel, he wrote his first 
Arctic letter to Mr. Grinnell, dating it August 29, lat. 63° 47 N., long. 
89° 58' W. 

On the 30th, he left the vessel in Mr. Chester's boat and landed 
at Whale Point, returning to the schooner at about 4.30 p. m. The 
next day they had the first sight of whales. 

The captain of the Tender now informed Hall that he had reached 
Wager River, and would, therefore, land him in order that the schooner 
might return to Marble Island to make her winter quarters. Both Hall 
and Chester dissented from the captain's judgment that he had reached 
the river. The first officer, however, insisted that they were opposite its 
southern entrance. Early in the morning of the 3 ! st, therefore, Chester 
again took charge of the Sylvia, with her Arctic outfit, and landed 
Hall with his party at a point which seemed to be, in Chester's judg- 
ment, 35 miles, but was afterward determined by Hall from a meridian 



60 An Unfortunate Mistake. (September, i864. 

altitude to be 40 miles, soiith of the point which Captain Chapel sup- 
posed he had reached. Mate Newman, with a boat's crew from the 
Tender, assisted in conveying the stores on shore. Hall gives the 
position of this first landing place as lat. 64° 35' N., long. 87° 33' W., 
" Encampment No. 1." 

This mistake of the land was a grievous disappointment. The 
remaining distance was clearly within the instructions received from 
the captain of the Monticello, and it could have been readily and safely 
made. It was more than a disappointment to Hall, for it proved to be the 
loss of a wliole year to the expedition. Had the landing been secured 
at the point proposed on Wager River, he might have gone directly to 
Repulse Bay, securing there his winter quarters, and preparing, as he 
expected, for his spring journey. It will be seen that he was com- 
pelled to pass his first winter near this first landing, and that it required 
the larger part of the opening season to push on his boat and stores to 
Repulse Bay. Whatever, however, may have been the error, and how- 
ever sore the disappointment, no complaints are found in his journal. 

The crews using both sail and oars found a fair harbor a little 
before meridian, but landed with difficulty because of the falling 
tide. Hall and Rudol})!! were in the water waist deep to haul the 
Sylvia ashore. 

A single white man \\\ a desolate region, and at the beginning of 
an Arctic winter, but a man of a brave heart and of Arctic experience ! 

The whole of the first day after landing he occupied in making 
a cache and depositing stores, in order to reduce the weight of 
the Sylvia's cargo. Such articles as were not needed for immediate 
use were carefully packed in three deposits under a ponderous pile of 



sicpicmbcr, 1S64.] CoasUfig AloYiQ the Welcome. 61 

rocks. Tlie chief objects thus cared for, besides his books and the 
other personal effects of the party, were the cans of pemmican and 
of desiccated vegetables, sugar, coffee, tea, and tobacco, a small sup- 
ply of spirits, powder, shot, and percussion caps. Several groups of 
deer were seen during the day, and Ebierbing killed five of their num- 
ber, bringing to the encampment, with Rudolph's help, the skins of 
three with part of the meat, and leaving the remainder in a cache 
three miles off. The party had thus fresh meat almost immediately 
on landing. 

On the 3d, Hall resumed his voyage to Repulse Bay by coasting 
along to the northward. Having made about five miles, he found 
himself completely headed by land which shot directly athwart his 
course, though he had supposed he should find a channel. It was 
simply a bay filled with numerous islands. The tide was running 
furiously before he got out of it, and it was only by skillful manage- 
ment that the Sylvia was free from the eddies, currents, and overfalls 
that abounded there, and was again in smooth water. 

In writing of this to Captain Chapel, he said : 

How shallow the Welcome ! Over mucli of the distance made from the 
place of my first encampment to second, in lat. C4° 50' 30" — 15 miles — our Sylvia, 
drawing only 18 inches, often touched bottom a half mile to two miles from the 
coast. The land on the west side of the Welcome, at no point between the two 
encampments named, can exceed 30 to 40 feet in height. I have no hesitation in 
saying that the American whalers who have so successfully been navigating in 
Hudson's Bay, especially in that part of it called Sir Thomas Eowe's Welcome, 
since you and your brother Christopher first opened up the whale-fishery in said 
bay, in 18G0, must be as good navigators as the world knows of. This is said 
with the full knowledge that little or no dependence can be placed on any com- 
passes on board of your ships. Although my azimuth compasses are of the most 
delicate construction, they are virtually of no use except to show how perfectly 
fickle and unreliable compasses are in this portion of the North. 



62 First Meeting with Innuits. [September, is64. 

Eskimo Joe now sighted with the telescope a place ou the laud where the 
Innuits* had had a late encampment, the marks being several tent-poles stand- 
ing erect. A few minutes later he sighted a boat which was turned over and 
lyiug above high water on the land ahead. From this we concluded that the 
natives could not be far oft", and toward this boat the Sylvia was now diiected. 
When within one mile of it we were delighted at the sight of a native near this 
boat ; and yet the joy was mingled with something that was akin to fear, for he 
appeared advancing cautiously toward us with gun in hand, and at the same 
time, as Joe thought, loading it. However, I caused my small crew of three to 
pull ahead, and soon leaped from the bow of the Sylvia into the muddy shallow 
water and waded ashore. The next moment my hand was in that of noble 
Ou-e-Ms (Albert's), as fine a specimen of an Eskimo as ever I met. I told him 
that but a few days before I had seen you, and that Captain Chapel had brought 
me and the two Innuits then in the boat in his vessel from my country, America. 
OM-e-?rt'« joy ou hearing from you seemed equal to mine on meeting him. He told 
us that his tupil; skin tent, and those of several others of his people, were just 
over a point of land from where we then were, and that if we would stop and 
make our encampment there, he and his people would the next day moA'e over 
beside us and then we all would have a long talk. 



* The aijpellations Innuits and Eskimos will bo used in this Narrative synonymously, as Hall 
uses thom. It may be as well, however, to give the probable origin of the names and their Jogit- 
imatc application. The word Esquimaux — better written Eskimo — is derived from a root judi- 
cal iug, in the language of the Northern tribes, a sorcerer. The Innuit name ii'rtjf-HsAfewf meaus 
the house where llie shamans, sorcerers, conduct their dances and incantations. The word lunuit 
means people, and is in use from Greenland to Bering Strait. It should take the place of Es- 
kimos, the etymology of which is not clear. Mr. W. N. Dall, in a paper read before the American 
Association in I8(i9, and in a number of "The Ctmtribntions to North American Ethnology" by 
!M:ijor J. D. Powell, makes the following additional valued statements: 

"The Orarians arc distinguished (I) by their language, of which the dialects, in construc- 
tion and etymology, bear a strong resemblance to one another throughout the group, and dift'er in 
their homogeneousness (as well as the foregoing characters) as strongly from their Indian dialects 
adjacent to them ; (II) by their distribution, always confined to the sea-coasts or islands, some- 
times entering the mouths of largo rivers, as the Yukon, but only ascending them for a short dis- 
tance, and as a rule avoiding tlu^ wooded country; (III) by their habits, more maritime and ad- 
venturous than the Indians, following hunting, andkiiling not only the small seal, but also the sea- 
lion and walrus. Even the great Arctic bow-head whale (and anciently the spcrm-\vlial(0 fulls a 
victim to their persevering eflbrts ; and the ])ateut harpoon, almost universally used by American 
whalers in lieu of the old-fashioned articl<^, is a co])y, in steel, of the bone and slate weapon which 
tli<! Innuits havi^ used for centuries ; lastly, they are distinguished by their physical characteris- 
tics, a light, fresh, yellow complexion, fine color, broad build, scaplioeephalic head, great cranial 
capacity, and obliquity of the arch of the zygoma. The i)atterns of their implements and 
weapons, and their myth.s, are similar in a general way throughout the group, and equally diti'cr- 
ent from the Indian types. 

"The Orarians are divided into two well marked gi'oii))s, namely, the lunuit, comprising 
all (be so-called Eskimo and Tuskis, and (ho Aleuts." 



September, 1S64.] Hall Encttnips at Noo-ivooL ,63 

To this proposition Hall readily acceded, and made with this 
chief and his people at Noo-wooh his second encampment, the position 
of which has been already given. It is to be remarked, however, that 
this position and the succeeding ones which may be named are approx- 
imate only. His astronomical observations, reduced from his rough 
notes under the superintendence of Mr. R. W. D. Brj^an, will be found 
in Appendix I. 

The tribe was one whose usual residence was at the head of Re- 
pulse Bay. They had often held intercourse there and at Depot 
Island with the American whalers ; had their English names from 
them, and had in their possession the boats and hunting implements of 
civilized life. 

Hall and his two Eskimos were soon at home among them, Ebier- 
bing and Too-koo-li-too acting from the first as his intei-preters, and 
finding but Httle difiiculty in this, as the difference between the new 
dialect and that of the Cumberland Gulf people was readily over- 
come. Hall's first notes speak of Oiiela's people as one would speak of 
old acquaintances. 

On the 7th [he says], first came into my tnpik Artooa, Frank, with his wife 
and family, with their dogs and their panniers ; in the evening, Ouela the chief, 
and Armoti. Armou slept with me, and all the natives shared my breakfast. 
Frank made me a present of six reindeer-tongues and some salmon. 

Going off in the morning on a hunt with Artooa, Nu-ker-zhoo, and 
Rudolph, Hall met with both white and black Tulc-too — reindeer — and 
Ebierbing again succeeded in killing two. Returning in the evening 
he joined heartily with his Eskimo brothers in their first AnTxOoting 
service, a superstitious ceremony more than once to be noted in these 
pages, and which occasioned many of Hall's subsequent troubles. His 



64 First Talk about Franklin. (September, is64. 

first inconvenience was the An-ge-ko's decree, this day, that no iron 
should be filed by either kob-lu-nas or Innuits till the ice formed. 

Armou the next morning, on taking leave, received presents of 
ammunition, tobacco, and deer-skin mittens ; and before the party sep- 
arated on this day Hall had begun his inquiries as to what these na- 
tives might have heard of Franklin's men and what they knew of the 
geography of the country further north. He says : 

I was not long iu arriving at the subject which led mc North. When I told 
these natives where I wanted to go, to wit, to I-wil-lik (Eepulse Bay), and thence 
to Boothia, Felix Peninsula (which they call Neitchil-le), to find out all about 
some 1wh-lu-nas, whites, that went there many years ago, they at once told me 
that there were two shij)s lost near Neitchil-le many years ago, and that a great 
many kob-lu-nas, whites, died — some starved and some were frozen to death — but 
that there were four that did not die! How astounded I was as Too-koo-li-too (the 
best interpreter of Innuit language into our vernacular that ever accompanied 
an Arctic expedition) told me this ! Little did I expect so soon to find natives 
that seemed to know a volume of interesting and important facts bearing on the 
Franklin Exi^edition. I had before us a large English Admiralty chart of the 
Arctic Eegions from the meridian of Smith's Sound westward to that of Macken- 
zie Eiver. They at once pointed out where Eepulse Bay was, which they called 
I-wil-lik, and thence followed the track of Dr. Eae, whom they saw in 1847 and 
1854. They showed the locality of where the two ships were lost, and where Neit- 
chil-le is. They pointed out the bay where they themselves were when they heard 
about the two ships being fast in the ice, and how the Tcob-lu-nas left them, and 
finally nearly all starved or froze to death. This bay Dr. Eae named Pelly Bay. 
These natives all told me that I ought not to think of wintering at I-wil-lik (Ec- 
])ulse Bay) ; that I was too late for killing any tool-too there, and that no seals or 
walrus could be killed there in winter. Besides all these objections to my Avin- 
teriug at Eepulse Bay, all the natives stated that I could not pass the entrance 
to Wager Bay and thence to Eepulse Bay at this late season of the year with my 
heavily laden boat without great risk of losing the boat and our lives. Indeed, T 
could not induce any one of the natives to go with me on account of the reasons 
now stated. Besides, they said I would not find any Innuits at Eepulse Bay, for 
they uniformly left that part of the country in the fall of the year to spend the win- 
fci' where (hey could kill seals and walrus. They stated that it was their owu pur 



September, 1864.1 Loncly Feeltngs. 65 

pose to go to Eepulse Bay next season, starting early in the spring, and then to 
])rocee(l tlieuce to Neitchille, just where I wanted to go; and proi)osed that if I 
woiihl spend the winter here at Noo-Avook with them, thej' would furnish nie and 
my small company with all the toolc-too, wahus, seal, bear, and musk-ox meat we 
wanted ; and, furthermore, they would give us plenty of reindeer furs for oiu- win- 
ter dresses and beddiug, besides helpmg me in doing anything I desu'ed. Where 
else in the world could a more free-hearted, generous people be foiind ? 

After spending several days with them and conversing seriously 
on the whole subject, Hall decided, and indeed of necessity, to remain 
at Noo-wook for the winter. He communicated the information 
quoted above to Captain Kilmer, of the Ansel Gibbs; that tliis first 
news might be safely conveyed to Mr Grinnell, if he himself should 
never return home. 

On the two following days whales were seen close to shore, their 
backs being above water for nearly a half hour. On the 10th, Hall 
sent his two Eskimos with Rudolph and some of the natives to his last 
encampment to bring away his stores. While awaiting their return 
the feelings awakened by his now isolated situation were thus recorded 
in his note-book : "I have felt lonely all day, although within a stone's 
throw are three tupiks filled with these kind-hearted children of the 
North. They have been very kind, some going to the lakelet for 
water, some getting the dwarf shrub used in these regions for fuel, and 
some preparing my food," 

The experience of his former Expedition having early taught him 
the helplessness of these poor beings when suffering with sickness or 
bodily injuries, he was not unprepared to render assistance, and he 
had early calls upon him from Ar-too-a and Ou-e-la. The case 
of one of his patients is illustrative. OoJc-lar-Ioo, an old woman, suf- 
fering with inflamed eyes, was constantly rubbing them with her 
S. Ex. 27 5 



66 Dr. Bae^s Ou-lig-huck. [September, is64. 

uncleanly lists. Having first sponged off with soap and water "the 
thick coat of primitive soil " which covered Ooli-bar-lod s whole face, 
and then presented her with a piece of cotton cloth for her own use 
in cleansing her eyes, he received her profound thanks for this appli- 
cation of nature's remedy, with the declaration that he was the best 
of An-ge-kos. This woman remembered that when very young she 
had staid aboard Parry's ship, and showed tattooing done upon one 
of her legs at that time by Crozier's men. 

The acquaintance made with the Eskimos was now daily im- 
proved by inquiries in regard to the expeditions of Parry, Ross, Rae, 
and Franklin, in order that, by comparing with the official narratives 
of those officers what could now be heard from these people, Hall could 
learn what confidence to place in their accounts of Franklin. He was 
much encouraged by the seeming correctness of their replies. Among 
these, Ar-too-a, whose age was about thirty, gave him a long account 
of the very serious wounds received by Ou-lig-huck, one of Dr. Rae's 
interpreters. Ar-too-a^s story, as found in Hall's journal of the day, 
corresponds closely with the record given by Rae himself of the acci- 
dental wound and the healing of Ou-lig-hnck to be found on pages 
95 and 96 of the Narrative of Rae's Expedition to the Arctic Seas in 
1846-47. Ar-too-a further said that he and his brothers Ou-e-la and 
Shu-she-ark-nook had seen Rae on each of his expeditions of 1846 and 
1854, and that "although Ou-lig-huck, father and son, and most of 
the white men smoked. Dr. Rae never did." They all knew Rae's 
" merry Ivitchukr Hall was much gratified on receiving such details 
of incidents which occurred nearly eighteen years previous. 

Tlie 15th was a day of gale from the north. The Welcome was 
lashed into a fury, and the cold winds drove far inland everything 



«icptember, 1864.] Change of the Season. 67 

like game, the hunting parties of the day faihng to see a single living 
thing — not even a partridge. The moon was full at D^' 9"" Greenwich 
time. On the going down of the sea, Hall, with his new man Friday, 
Ar-too-a, and Ebierbing, went out in swift pursuit of an ook-gook {Phoca 
harhata) which they had seen drifting down with the tide, and seem- 
ingly asleep. The Sylvia had been gotten off the rocks by the help 
of the women. But although the party approached the seal cautiously, 
the noise of the oars awakened him, and he disappeared. The chief 
Ou-e-la, with one of his wives and a daughter, had early gone off to 
hunt; the man, gun in hand, carrying on his back a roll of reindeer- 
furs, his dogs being heavily laden with the provisions and cooking 
utensils placed on their backs saddle-bag fashion, as is the Innuit 
custom. 

Hall now experienced the beginning of a suffering like one on 
his first Expedition — the breaking out of boils — brought about by the 
change of food from the salt meats of ship-life to the raw or partially 
boiled meats of the Eskimos. The rapid change of the season was also 
sensibly felt. The nights began to be cold, ice formed on the fresh- 
water lakes, and there were signs of an approaching snow-storm. 
He determined to secure a less exposed place for the tupiks. 

On the 18th, in company with Ar-too-a, Shoo-she-ark-nook, and 

Ebierbing, he selected a location for himself and his friends on the east 

side of a low ridge of rocks, which would serve to shield them from 

the cold west and northwest winds that would probably prevail for 

many months to come. His journal says : 

It has been moving-day with us, and an interesting picture might have been 
seen ; the Innuits and the two Kod-lu-nas, with packs on our backs, tramping 
along toward our destined new home. Old Mother Oolc-bar-loo had for her pack a 
monstrous roll of reindeer skins, which was topped with kettles and pans and 



68 



On the Move. 



[Septvuibcr, 1!S64. 



various little iustruments used by lunuits in their domestic affairs, while in her 
hand she carried spears and poles and other tilings that need not be mentioned 




here. Ar-ioo-a had for his pack his tent and pole, his gun and et ccteras in his 
hands. His wile had for her ])ack a huge roll of reindeer-skins and other things 
imich of 1li(' character of (hk-b<(r-l(><)\s. The dogs hud saddle-bags, and (opjtiiig 



September, 1864.1 Reindeer Deposits Visited. 69 

them were pannikins and such varied things as are always to be found in Innuit 
use. Ebierbiug had for his pack our tent and some tive or six tent-poles, while 
in his hands be carried his gun. Charley Eudolph had a large roll of reindeer- 
skins, in his hands carrying numerous tent-poles. Too-koo-li-too had also deer- 
skins, and in her hands various things. I carried on my shoulder two riHes and 
one gun, each in covers ; under one arm my comjiass tripod, and in one hand my 
little basket, which held my pet Ward chronometer, and in the other my trunk of 
instruments. 

A snow-drift set in on the 20th, but during its continuance about 
twenty bags of fire-shrub were gathered. It was not the usual Andro- 
meda Tetragona, but something of hke character, and was collected 
for fuel and for a covering on the tupiks. 

During the rest of the month a continuance of stormy weatlier 
prevented astronomical observations The land began to look winter- 
like. The tracks of a wolf were now first seen ; it had been busy 
with the bear-skins which had been left to dry near the third encamp- 
ment. The ground was already covered with snow to the depth of a 
half inch ; the ice on the lakes bore the weight of a man, and the 
heavy weather on the coast drove inland more of the game. 

The Innuits, warned of the necessity for procuring winter clothing, 
made a journey of five miles down the coast to their deposit of rein- 
deer-skins. On their return, it was a matter of surprise to Hall to see 
what heavy loads they were bearing on their backs, one of the 
youngest of the men carrying no less than 125 pounds, and Too-loo- 
ar-a, one of Ou-e-laJs wives, 100. In binding their packs they passed 
thongs around them, and these across their foreheads and breasts. 
When appropriating these furs, on the following day, a gay and novel 
scene presented itself The best skins being arranged in an outside 
circle, the women were gallantly allowed each to make her selection 
from these ; the remainder of the one hundred and fifty skins being 



70 Too Frequent Visits. [September, i864. 

then chosen by the men from the inner circles. Several women 
had young children at their backs. "The gilt bands on their heads, 
the spiral tails hanging on each side of their broad faces, the boys and 
girls at play, made altogether a fine subject for a picture." Ou-e-Ia, 
speaking for his companions, had requested Hall to take out his 
choice of furs, first of all. 

The reindeer by this date had nearly all gone south, not to come 
again till spring. Returning from a lonesome tramp, on which Hall 
had made a discovery of wolf-tracks, he was visited by almost all of 
the Innuits of the village, with their congratulations on his escape 
from a seeming danger. Their visits were, however, fnst becoming 
so fi-equent and protracted as to give him much concern. Fully dis- 
posed to do nothing but rest in the enjoyment of the fruits of their 
summer labors, they did little else than visit and eat; "laying off 
and eating, eating, eating." Lounging in Hall's tent the day long and 
talking with Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, they became "quite a 
bore "; particularly as these talks were already bending Too-koo-li- 
too's mind to an inconveniently slavish obedience to their customs 
She gave the first proof of this by going off among the rocks to mend 
her took-too stockings for fear of offending these natives by woi-king at 
all on took-too within a tent. It was only when all these Innuits had 
retired to their several tupiks that Hall's company could have a full 
meal. They must always share it with the unsophisticated children 
of the North ; " such voracious eaters that they always get the lion's 
share." The evening meal, however, usually consisted of but cold 
rock-pemmican, tallow-candles, and degenerated meat, and even of this 
Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too were fortunate if they got half a dozen 
mouthfuls before all was gone. In very pleasant contrast with this 



bcptcmber, 18ti4.J 



Winter Game. 



71 



is found an occasional note of the bringing- in by Eudolph of a fat 
rabbit, in its winter garb, all white except the tips of its ears, "jet 
black ;" or of as many as eight or ten snow-partridges. Flocks of 
these birds, in their winter dress, snow white, except their tail-feath- 
ers, were found in numbers on the sea-shore, after each fall of snow. 
In the depth of the winter they are scarcely distinguishable from the 
snow at a distance of 10 feet. 




^ 



.%. 




PTARMIGAN {Tetrao Lagopus). 



72 An Aurora. [scpicmbw, isc4. 

Hall's journal closes the month of September with an imaghia- 
tive comparison between the early snow-storms and Arctic aurora : 

While out on a walk amid the snow-storm this p. m., I was struck with the 
similitude, in some respects, of the appearance of the snow, as it was swei)t along 
by the winds over the glassy surface of the new-made ice of the lakelets, to that 
of the aurora in these regions when in its full play. I refer to certain peculiar 
movements of the one corresponding to the other. If I wished a friend at home 
to get a fair idea of the movements of the aurora here in its general exhibitions, 
I should say go out during the first severe snow-storm and get within sight of 
some smooth ice covering some river, i)ond, or lake, and watch the snow as it is 
driven along. Noav and then pufts of wind come sweeping along, so to sjieak, 
rays or beams of snow that seem to play fantastically. Innumerable numbers 
of these go to make up a most interesting scene. While the aurora, in rays or 
beams, shoots up vertically, and is of golden hue, and often of prismatic colors, 
the snow is swept along horizontally, and is white, the same as the aurora in 
the sunlight. — White. 

On the 5th of October, Joe brought to Hall some muk-tuk, the 
black skin of the whale, which was much relished ; but Hall was still 
suffering from boils on his eyelids. His whole part}' were sick, and 
were confined to their tents for several days by a storm. On their 
recovery, Ebierbing, assisted by Ou-e-la and Armou built for him a 
large igloo near those which the Innuits had already erected for them- 
selves. Hall's was built with much care, although it cost but two 
hours' labor; he found it quite strong and commodious. Its diam- 
eter was 10 feet. 

The construction of one of these snow-houses, built by the Innuits 
of this region, is described by him substantially as follows : 

After making trial of several banks of snow, by plunging in tlicir 
long knives, on finding the proper compactness, they cut blocks 2 to 
2^ feet in length and about 18 inches in thickness. One set is cut 
from the spot on which the igloo is to bo built, its floor being thus 



October, 1864.] Igloo-BuUding. 73 

sunken 18 inches below the general surface. In placing the blocks 
around this excavation, of about 10 feet diameter, the first tier is 
made up of those which, by increasing regularly in width, form a 




SNOW-KNIFE MADK OF BONE ; DEPOSITED BY HALL IN THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 

spiral from right to left. They are laid from within, each being 
secured by a bevel on the one last laid and another bevel on the next 
one below. The joints are well broken. The blocks incline inwardly, 
thus regularly diminishing the diameter of the igloo and fitting it for 
the dome or keystone. Thirty-eight blocks were here used. For 
ventilation, a small hole is usually made by the spear. The crevices 
are well filled with snow within and without, making it nearly an 
air-tight structure. For a window, a small opening cut in the dome 
is filled in usually with a block of clear ice ; in some cases with the 
scraped inner linings of the seal ; this last makes a light on which 
the frost does not settle as upon the ice-blocks. The passage-way to 
the igloo is always long and points toward the south. The Repulse 
Bay natives shovel up much more snow upon the hut than the Green- 
landers do. The igloo lamp is sometimes nothing more than a flat 
stone, about 6 inches in length, placed in a niche cut out of the wall, 
and having on it a little dry moss for a wick, which is supplied with 
oil by a slice of blubber from the bear or the seal. A stone lamp of 
better form, although poor enough, will give something of a fair light 
and warmth. 



74 



IlaJTs Igloo. 



[October, 1S64. 



The comforts within such buildings are of necessity very limited. 
It is a matter of surprise that during- the very many tedious Arctic 




HALI.'S IGLOO AT NOO-WOOK. 




GROUND I'LAN OF THK IGLOO. 



hours spent within them by Hall he could bear with fortitude their 
worst evils; and could, at the same time, write his notes with such 



October, 1864.) Winter Quarters. 75 

fullness, study and correct typographical errors in his Bowditch, and 
work up his observations. He often "wondered at the simplicity to 
which the necessities of life may be reduced. His house was a 




INNUIT LAMP. 



(Deposited by Hall in tlie Smithsonian Institution ; the iracture mended by the natives, with 
sinew. Dimensions: Length, 26 inches; depth, 11^ inches to base of flange; flange, 2f 
inches thick, 2 inches high. ) 

building without a corner, without props or braces ; the wall, roof, 
and door a unity, yet so strong as to defy the power of the fiercest 
Arctic gales." 

Hall was now fairly established in his winter quarters. His 
instruments for making his observations were as yet unhurt. He had 
no apprehensions as to a want of provision. The Sylvia and other 
boats were safely housed. And it may not be a matter too trivial in 
this case to be noticed that Ebierbing, by the use of scissors, plied the 
vocation of barber to Hall's beard, over which a razor had not passed 
for six years. "Its length had been a special protection in the summer 
months against those tremendous blood-suckers called in the English 
tongue mosquitoes, which abound in swarms here." This last state- 
ment may be remembered in contrast with the experience of Parry's 
men in the higher latitude of Winter Harbor in June. Parry says : 
"The mosquito," Culex pipiens, "was never of the least annoyance 
to us, as is the case on the shores of Hudson's Bay and other cold 
countries." 



76 Letter to Chapel. [October, is64. 

Some weeks after this, Hall wrote to his friend, the captain of the 
Monticello, at Depot Island : 

I exchanged tent for snow-house, and have now been in the igloo sixty days, 
and all the time as comfortable as I ever was in winter in my life. You would be 
quite interested in taking a walk through my winter quarters; one main igloo for 
myself and Eskimo children (Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too), and three igloos, all 
joined to the main, for store-houses. A low, crooked passage-way of some 50 feet 
in length, made of snow, leads into our residence, which, as you will know from 
the word igloo, means a snow-house ; its shape is hemispherical. 1 never before 
knew any Eskimos so provident as this tribe or clan I am wintering with. I doi;bt 
not they have four hundred or more of reindeer, killed last summer, on deposit 
within the distance of a circle of 20 miles in diameter. We are now living on 
polar-bear and walrus meat. Five polar bears, some musk-oxen, a great many 
partridges, and four walruses have been killed since arriving among the natives, 
besides a large number of reindeer. 



HAPTER 




intp:rcourse with the innuits— their feasts 

and hunts. 



OCTOBER TO DECEMBER 31, 18G4. 



CriAPTEE IV. 



Hall's ministrations to the suffering — Their gratitude — Feasts described — Ebierbing 
AiocooTED— An aurora — Magnetic observatory erected — Sledge journey down 
the Welcome — Musk-ox hunt — A fox caught in his own trap — Customs in making 

REINDEER DEPOSITS — A BEAR SLAIN — PREPARATION OF SKINS — HaLL'S SEAL HUNT — PLAY- 
ING the KEY-LOW-TIK — EeMOVAL to the walrus-grounds — OU-E-LA'S InNUIT STORIES — 

Visit by the natives to the whale-ships at Depot Island — Alleged reasons for 

ADVICE given by THE INNUITS TO DR. EaE IN 1854 — DISCOVERY THAT A DAY HAD BEEN 
LOST IN THE RECKONING — PRESENTS RECEIVED FROM THE WHALERS — SUCCESSFUL WALRUS 
HUNT. 

A gale from the northwest, which had prevailed for three days, 
was followed on the 8th by a day with scarcely a cloud in the sky. 
The temperature was quite low ; the thermometer inside the tent had 
read 19°. Hall with difficulty wrote out his notes, and began to fear 
he might lose his ink. Digging out from a wide snow-drift a box 
which contained two standard thermometers, he was glad to find them 
unbroken. They showed a temperature of 20°, the air outside tlie 
drift being 10°. 

Although still suffering much from an abscess close to the ball 
of his right eye, and fearing that the left eye was also endangered, he 
had occasion to renew his visits of assistance to the natives, to supply 

79 



80 Belief Given to the Sick. [Ociob<^r, is«4. 

tlieir necessities both of food and medicine. He found them entirely 
out of provision. Coming quickly at his call, they made a meal with 
him on a quarter of a pound of pemmican each, and took back a 
supply for the breakfast of the women and children. She-nook-shoo, 
Ook-har-Iod's son, was quite sick in his snow-house. His fever was 
arrested, and he was restored, partly by medicines and partly by 
nutritious food, the supply of which was controlled. The cooking, 
Ook-har-loo refused to have done in a kob-lu-na's igloo. 

The poor people were not lacking in a free showing of thankfid- 
ness by words and acts. They had abundance of deer-meat within a 
radius of 25 miles ; probably three hundred reindeer scattered over 
the country in the different deposits which in their late hunting 
season they had made, and which they now frequented to bring in 
these supplies. Intercourse between them and Hall became still more 
familiar. He often dined out ; and as often invited them to pemmican 
and coffee. 

A cordial invitation and a full feast are thus described : Return- 
ing from a walk to his third encampment, when coming near the 
igloos, a band of boys and girls came running to meet him, crying 
out, ^^Ki-ete, kal-la, ea-tu, ea-tu; took-too tood-noo, am-a-suitf^^ "Come 
quick, for reindeer-meat and tallow are plenty." Following the youth- 
ful company to the igloos, he found a heavy load of deer skins and 
meat just brought in on a sledge from one of the deposits. A whole 
deer was part of the load. All the women of the village were present, 
as this was to be an unusual feast. The meat was placed in one of 
two igloos which were connected by a })assage 10 feet in length, and of 
sufficient height for a man to stand up in it erect. In one igloo were 
the women ; in the other, the whole reindeei" was on the table-cloth — 



cctobrr. 1864.) Au lunuit Feust. 81 

a took-too skin — before which stood Oii-e-Ia, naked from his waist 
up, with liand-saw and hatchet to carve. Hall presented each of the 
men with a long knife, with his own name marked on the blade. 
He enjoyed the meat, which was good, as well as the reindeer-fat, 
which was 2 inches thick and abundant. On visiting the women's 
igloo, he found Mother Ook-har-loo with an old one-eyed lady and all 
the younger ones seated around a pile of meat, having a happy time ; 
three others, with their naked infants at their backs, sitting near, on 
the bed-place, Turk -fashion. 

At another dinner, which consisted of boiled deer-meat and soup 
made of the blood, Hall thought the cooking was better than that 
from iron pans and pots ; and he says that the stronger the venison, 
even if putrid, the better he and the Innuits relished it. " It has a 
rich flavor, while fresh venison is almost tasteless." On the 14th, he 
dined at Nu-her-zTioo's, "Jack's," on the usual fare of frozen deer-meat, 
having lunched on black- whale tail with relish. At supper his own 
invited guests feasted on a soup made by cooking pemmican, Borden 
meat, and biscuit in a liberal quantity of water. Hot coffee with 
raw frozen venison was found to be distasteful. "The two do not go 
well together, for after a drink of hot liquid the icy venison makes 
the teeth ache. The change is entirely too great. The Innuits take 
all their warm drink first; they have sound teeth." 

He now began to discuss his plans with them more fully in order 
to ascertain what assistance they would render him ; proposing to pro- 
ceed to Iwille, or Iwillik (Repulse Bay), with the whole company, and 
there make his headquarters, and thence move on by sledges to Neit- 
chille, Boothia Felix. He would there determine upon the best way of 

reaching King William's Land. The Innuits agreed to assist him, but 
S. Ex. 27 G 



82 The An-ge-ko Orders Hall to Burn His Clothes. [October, i864. 

advised that the whole company go well armed to Neitchille, as there 
existed a strong war-like feeling between the natives of that region 
and those of Iwillik. 

Hoping to remove every obstacle in the way of accomplishing 
the object of his expedition, he accepted their advice and subjected 
himself to the unreasonable demands of the customs, prejudices, and 
even of the superstitions of the natives. As an instance of the last of 
these, he now submitted to the loss of even his most valuable garments, 
since an an-ge-ko (conjurer or medicine man) required them to be 
burned after he had professedly cured Ebierbing fix)m sickness. Hall 
consented to believe that Ebierbing seemed much better after the 
operation, but was unprepared for the an-ge-kds decree, that his own 
reindeer-skins, and those of his two Eskimo companions, should be 
destroyed. The favor of the Innuits was, however, thus kept up; 
they had already given him many skins, and he felt sure they would 
give more, if needed. He began to hope that these people, about forty 
in number, were becoming bound to him by strong ties, and would 
co-operate with him on his journey. He thought them the best of the 
Eskimos with whom he had met ; and, willing to adapt himself to their 
habits in every respect, he discarded his outer clothing at this early 
stage of the season, and dressed himself in a full Innuit suit. 

The varying temperature of this part of the month kept the whole 
party watchful of the state of their snow-houses, which were further 
endangered by their heated atmosphere, when crowded by visitors day 
and night. On the 15th the thermometer read 34° all day inside, and 
27°, 80°, and 28° outside. The domes of all the igloos of the village 
were riddled with holes and threatened to cave in. Hall's had one 
prop to keep up the dome during the day, and at night he added two 



October, 1864.] An Auvora. 83 

more, and watched his chronometers close at his side, that he might 
shelter them if the roof should fall. Awaking next morning he found 
a dozen large windows which had been made by the melting snow. 
The premises were then vacated, and his friends took down the old 
walls and rebuilt him a house, handling the snow-blocks with great 
care, as they lacked their usual compactness. Again anxiously watch- 
ing the thermometer, at 8 p. m. he found it read 31°, the wind being 
from the southeast with snow, which, if it changed to rain, would bring 
down every igloo in the village; but, at 1 a. m. of the 16th, the wind 
shifting to the northeast brought the thermometer down to 0°. The 
weather cleared up. 

An aurora, seen on the night of the 18th, is thus described in the 
journals : 

At 10 p. m. I went out, and the aurora was spanning the azure vault. A 
smart breeze from the north was blowing nearly the whole night. This seemed 
to add to the briskness of the merry dancers as they crossed the heavens to and 
fro. An hour before, the sky was clear, not a cloud or an aurora ray to be seen; 
now, a belt extended across the heavens, arch-like, some 25° above the horizon, its 
direction being from southeast to northwest. I watched the rising arch. Every 
few moments gave varied and magnificent changes. At length patches of aurora 
burst forth here and there. Graduallj' the main arch reached the zenith, and then 
was the grand part of the scene. Much of what was before -in perpendicular rays 
shot athwart and across the heavens swiftly like a river of molten gold, here and 
there forming vast whirljiools, here and there an eddy, here and there a cataract 
of stupendous fall. When above my head, it seemed less than a pistol-shot dis- 
tant. Indeed, it was near by. When I moved quickly, running iip to the top of 
the hill by the igloo, making a distance of less than 50 fathoms, the arch of the 
aurora, that seemed stationary while I was by the igloo and in transitu, was now 
several degrees to the soutJncest of me. I returned as quickly to the igloo, and 
the auroral belt was directly overhead. So small a base, with so palpable a 
change in the bearing of the aurora, proved that it must have been quite close to 
the earth. A ball of fire fell during the display, and burst just before it reached 
the earth, throwing out prismatic scintillations in every direction. 



84 Noise from the Aurora (f ). [October, isos. 

Hall found himself unable to decide whether any noise actually 
proceeded from the aurora. On questioning the Innuits as to whether 
they were accustomed to hear noises during its display, they answered 
"Yes;" one of them endeavoring to imitate the sound by a puffing 
noise from his mouth, which noise, Hall says, did remarkably accord 
with what he thought he had heard himself during the time of the 
most active displays.* Auroral action of equal interest occurred 
repeatedly during the month. 

On the 21st, Hall endeavored to erect a magnetic observatory. 
Armou cut out the snow-blocks and sledged them to the center of a 
fresh-water pond about fifty yards from the igloo and covered with ice 
several feet in thickness. Hall assisted in the building, passing the blocks 
of snow, which on the back and on the north side of the building were 
placed in two tiers half way up, making a double wall to shield from 

* Lieutenant Hooper, R. N., second in command of Lieutenant PuUeu's Boat -Expedition 
from Icy Cape to Mackenzie River, spent the winter of 1849-'50 near Fort Franklin, on Bear 
Lake. He wrote in his journal : " I have heard the aurora, not once, Lut many times ; not faintly ■ 
and indistinctly, but loudly and unmistakably ; now from this quarter, now from that, now from 
one point on high, and at another time from one low down. At first it seemed to resemble tho 
sound of field-ice, then it was like the sound of a water-mill, and, at last, like the whirring of a 
cannon-shot heard from a short distance." 

But at a later date in his Arctic life Hooper says : " I fancied that I heard this auror.a, but 
the noise was indubitably produced by the cracking of the ice on the lake." 

"There is no satisfactory evidence," says Professor Loomis, "that the aurora ever emits an 
audible sound. The sound 8Ui)po8ed to have been heard has been described as a rustling, hiss- 
ing, crackling noise. But the most competent observers, w^ho have spent several winters in tho 
Arctic Regions, where auroras are seen in tluur greatest brilliancy, have been convinced that this 
MUi)posed rustling is a mere illusion. It is, therefore, inferred that tho sounds which have been 
ascribed to the aurora must have been duo to other causes, such as the motion of the wind, or tho 
cr.ackling of the snow and ico in cousoquonco of their low temperature. If tho aurora emitted 
any audible sound, this sound ought to follow the auroral movement after a considerable inter- 
val. Sound requires four minutes to travel a distance of ijO miles. But tho observers who report 
noises succeeding auroral movements make no mention of any interval. It is, therefore, inferred 
that the sounds which have been heard during auror.nl exhibitions are to bo ascribed to other 
causes than tho aurora." (Treatise on Meteorology, p. 186.) 

Hearno says that the Northern Indians call tho aurora cd-lhin, i. c, deer, from their hav- 
ing seen hairy doer-skin, when briskly stroked, emit electric sparks. Tho Southern Indians 
Ixilieve it to bo tho spirits of departed friends dancing. When the aurora varies in color and 
form, they say their deceased friends .-ire rv ci/ merry. 



4»cteber, 1S64.] Ftrst Sleihjc THp. 85 

the coldest gales. A large snow-block fashioned into a column 3 
feet in height was set upright in the center of the observatory, and 
its top rounded off by another block. The whole was made into solid 
ice by pouring water on it. The house was now ready for the dip 
circle which had been loaned by the United States Coast Survey. 
The circle was unfortunately broken before it could be used with 
success.* 

Discovering that his ink was frozen solid, he tried the successful 
experiment of boiling down about a pint to a thick paste, obtaining, by 
diluting this, a supply for his present use, and preserving his ink- 
powder and anti-freezing ink, the gift of the American Bank Note 
Company of New York. 




ESKIMO SLED. 



On the 22d a sledge journey of 10 miles was made down the 
Welcome, to give the hungry dogs of the Innuits a full meal from a 
whale's carcass. The runners of this sled, made of 2 -inch plank, were 
16 feet long, each being shod with bone from the jaw of a whale. Its 
15 cross-bars made of staves, each 3 feet 4 inches long and 5 inches 

* Before Hall left New York Mr. James Green, instrunient-maker, set tip tliis circle on 
ground adjoining Mr. Kutlierfurd's obser\'atory and went through a set of observations and of 
explanatory instruction with Hall.. 



86 The First Musk-ox Hunt. [October, i8e4. 

wide, were lashed to the top of the runners by strong strips of wah-us- 
hide. This play of the runners makes the Eskimo sled superior to all 
others in its flexibility over hummocky ice. Their depth was 9 inches, 
and the width of the sled outside of them, 3 feet. 

The four Innuits, Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, Nu-ker-zJioo, and Oong-oo-too, 
accompanied Hall, the dog team being made up of fifteen dogs. Un- 
able to find the whale by reason of the quantity of pack-ice which had 
been forced on shore, the party crossed a bight and succeeded in satis- 
fying the dogs from the carcasses of two bears, which were with diffi- 
culty uncovered from a frozen mass of stones. Making upon the rocks 
a scanty meal from what they had brought with them without touch- 
ing the bear-meat, they lighted their pipes and took a good smoke. 
Then placing some provision within two deer skins which were made 
up by thongs into rolls to be drawn by the dogs, they started on a 
westerly course inland to visit some of the reindeer deposits. The 
sled was left behind. 

A more exciting scene now offered itself Ou-e-la soon discov- 
ered the tracks of musk-oxen, and brought up the whole party by his 
cries of ^^ Oo-ming-mung, Oo-ming-mungr Quickly deciding that the 
tracks were not very old, and that the animals might be sighted, they 
entered on what the natives regard as their great hunt. The tracks 
freshened. The animals were not, however, sighted during the day. 
The party had to get up an igloo and retire to rest with but a scanty 
meal of about 3^ ounces for each man, part of which consisted of 
"casino." 

Outside of the igloo, the thermometer showed 16° and inside, 25°; 
a temperature pronounced uncomfortable by the four warm-blooded 
Innuits and the one pale-face, all of whom slept closely sandwiched. 



October. 1804.] Tlw Fifst Musk-Ox Hunt. 87 

Hall's head and shoulders were between two of his friends, while his 
feet and legs were mixed up with those of the other two. Early 
in the morning, after smoking in bed, his companions gave him 
the only breakfast which could be had — the marrow melted during 
the night from a few reindeer-bones kept close by their flat stone 
lamp. They then slaked their thirst from a lakelet, cutting the ice 
to the depth of 18 inches, and resumed their hunt. Following the 
tracks which led in different directions, at one time southwardly toward 
the "Great Sea" (Hudson's Bay), and at others for long distances 
over hill and valley, at length they descried two animals on the top 

• 

of a hill at the opposite end of a lake. The dogs were immediately 
loosed, but very soon some could not be prevented from turning aside 
to the tracks of reindeer. After considerable delay, however, they 
were again brought together by the cries of the Innuits, whose sharp, 
experienced eyes readily discriminated between the tracks of the 
reindeer and those of the musk-ox. The hoofs of both are as large 
as those of the common ox, and much the same in appearance; but 
the little knobs — fetlocks (?) — behind the hoofs are the tell-tale be- 
tween the tracks, those of the reindeer being more prominent and 
longer The stand-droppings of the deer are like those of the sheep; 
of the musk-cattle, "much like those from our cattle when dry- 
fed." 

The party at this time had much difficulty in the pursuit, the 
snow being too soft to support their weight. As much as possible of 
the route was selected over the bare rocks, in passing over which they 
came frequently to places where the musk bull or cow had pawed 
through the snow and fed upon the grass and mosses of the soil; 
unmistakable signs also appeared of their having lain down and rested 



88 A Fox Caught in His Own Trap. [Ociokcr, i864. 

through the night. Two of the Innuits went forward to follow up the 
tracks to which some of the dogs had continued to keep close. 

Hall, with Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a, turned aside to visit a reindeer 
deposit. Noticing the tracks of a fox, on close examination they found 
a hole through a snow-bank which covered a cache, and on loosening 
some of the stones discovered a fox alongside of the meat within. He 
was dead and frozen hard as a rock. The hungry fellow had burrowed 
through the drift and forced his gaunt body in through a very small 
hole between the stones. But he had so gorged himself that it was 
impossible for him to get back through the hole by which he had 
entered. The meat was left untouched, for the Innuits cannot eat 
what a fox has meddled with. Oti-e-Ia led the way to another cache, 
which he opened, but only by a very severe hammering of one stone 
upon another to unloose the mass, locked up as it was by the ice A 
bountiful repast was made by the hungry travelers from the best parts 
of the meat, while the legs and head were re-cached for future use. 

Hall notes that the custom of the Innuits when making these 
deposits is to throw down the carcass of the slain deer, and then to place 
upon and around it the head, legs, shoulders, and saddle ; covering the 
whole with a heavy pile of stones. The frozen mass soon becomes so 
solid that any one but an Innuit would expect to separate it only by 
blasting, or by the use of the pick and the crow-bar. The Innuit perse- 
veringly divides it by using a wedge-shaped stone, on which he strikes 
his blows with another often weighing 100 pounds. 

After visiting this deposit, Ou-e-la catching up the distant sound 
of the dogs, by the use of Hall's glass descried his companions about 
four miles distant, standing by the side of a slain ox. The party again 
slaking their thirst at a lakelet, the water of which, as usual, was 



October, 1S64.] A Bear-Huvit. 89 

filled with small vermin, soon joined their companions. The slain 
animal was immediately cut up and hauled to the igloo^ Avithin which 
all rested more comfortably on the night following, reposing on a 
part of their prize, the soft woolly skin, which felt like a feather-bed. 
Having no blubber for oil, they could have no light. In the morning, 
after making more than one meal on their fresh meat, they succeeded 
in getting their spoils to the place where they had left their sledge, 
which they now heavily loaded. An addition of reindeer and bear 
meat made up a weight in all of nearly 3,000 pounds, a heavy burden 
of 200 pounds for each of the dogs. They arrived at home early in 
the afternoon, the state of the weather having dissuaded them from 
pursuing the second musk-ox. 

The day following, after a long pursuit by eight of the Innuits 
and their boys with guns, spears, and dogs, the party at times travel- 
ing over very rough ice and then on the new sea-ice which in some 
places treacherously opened under them, a bear was slain by a third 
ball, after his taking to the open water A line passed through his 
jaws brought the carcass on the floe, where, the weight of the animal 
being reduced by removing his entrails, the prize was at last secured 
by being drawn by ropes fastened through his nose and to each of his 
fore paws over the thin ice and across the fissures to the firm land 
While Hall was assisting in dragging this bear, he repeatedly broke 
through the ice into the sea. 

His next trip was with two parties of the Innuits coasting on 
two sleds — one 10 feet in length, the other 6 — over ice so rough 
that "as they went along banging and thumping over it the very 
life seemed to be shaken out, and with difficulty they clung to the 
sleds." Arriving at a place where they, some time before, had made 



90 A Dainty Feast. [October, j 864. 

a deposit under a boat, and turning it up by the use of the mast 
as a lever, the Innuits selected some needed things; among them a 
keg of blubber, which they presented to him. Their meal on this 
trip was again made on the skin from the tail of the black whale. 
Seals were seen, but, following their custom, the Innuits would not 
now hunt them, not having finished their work on the reindeer-skins. 
Until the walrus season begins, when they may have killed the bear or 
seal they only make a deposit of the animal. 

The supply of venison being still abundant, feasting in the village 
was an every-day affair. When the invitations were general, as on the 
29th, the feast was held in two connected igloos, in one of which all the 
women sat, as usual, Turk fashion, on their snow-bench bed, while in the 
center lay a huge pile of raw frozen venison and tood-noo, reindeer-fat. 
In the other igloo the men crowded close together; the walls of both 
resounding with peals of laughter, above the confusion of tongues. When 
they began the feast, a large piece of venison was picked up by one and 
the edge of it taken between the teeth which answered admirably as a 
vice to hold it fast, while the knife in the right hand was plied with saw 
movements near the nose, cutting the meat downward, but with danger 
to nose and lips. In this way as large a piece of meat was cut off as 
could be gotten into a widely- distended mouth. The main piece was 
then passed to the next guest, who followed suit. The tood-noo, in its 
turn, was served in the same way. The eyes of the reindeer were a 
delicate morsel. A dish of reindeer heads and necks, boiled with 
water and a large quantity of reindeer-blood making rich soup, some- 
times closes the feast. Each guest takes a sup of this in turn until 
it is gone. The woman of the house then licks the ooJc-sook (pot), clean 
and prepares her own mess. The children are stuffed almost to suffo- 



October, 1 864.] 



Preparation of Reindeer- skins. 



91 



cation. The meals being finished, each one scrapes the grease from 
his face into his mouth and Hcks his fingers. 

Tlie Innuits busily employed themselves during the remainder of 
the open season in the preparation of reindeer-skins for dresses and 
bed-coverings ; their custom in this differing from that of the natives of 
Cumberland Sound, in the help given to the women by the men. The 
processes for this, Hall says, are ; first, to scrape the skin by an 
instrument called sek-koon (by the Frobisher Bay Innuits, teg-se- 
koon). This instrument is about 6 inches long, including the handle, 





Bone edge. Iron edge. 

SEK-KOONS Oli SKIN-SCKAPKUS, HALF SIZE. 

(Deposited by Hall at the Smithsonian Institution, Washington.) 

and is made of a peculiar kind of whet or oil stone, or else of musk-ox 
or reindeer bone, or of sheet-iron. The second step is to dry the skins 
thoroughly; the third, to scrape again with the sck-koon, taking off 



92 An-koo-ting. loctobcr. is64. 

every bit of the flesh ; the fourth, to wet the flesh side and wrap it up 
for thirty minutes, and then again scrape with the sek-koon; which last 
operation is followed ]>y chewing the skin all over, and again scraping 
and cross-scraping with the instrument. These laborious processes 
Hall describes as resulting "in the breaking of the skin, making the 
stifl" hide soft-finished like the chamois-skin." The whole work is 
often completed within an hour. 

Within the week which followed, an-koo-ting was again practiced 
in the igloos. On two occasions Ebierbing earnestly pleaded that the 
an-ge-ko would relieve him from rheumatism with which he had 
severely suffered. With Hall's consent he propitiated the an-ge-ko 
by the present of one of his two-quart tin coffee-buckets. When 
the hour came, a large deer-skin was suspended in the back part 
of the igloo. The an-ge-ko, who on this occasion proved to be 
Ar-too-a, entered with three men and the old woman Ook-har-loo, and 
immediately asked that the light on the table, where Hall had seated 
himself to take notes, should be put out. The wide-extended wick of 
the Eskimo lamp also was thumbed down, except a bit at one end, 
which gave just light enough to make the scene gloomy and cold. 
The an-ge-ko then took off his boots, and, standing on the bed-place, 
made a speech of about ten minutes, during which Mother Ook-har- 
loo' s musical voice in the well-known song, "Am-na-yu-ya," contrasted 
strangely with the hoarse tones of the an-ge-ko, who sometimes made 
the dome of the snow-house shake. Ebierbing cried out from time to 
time, ^^At-tee! At-teef^' (Good ! Good ! goon). ^w-<7e-A-o then slipped 
quietly behind the curtain and made a sort of fluttering with his mit- 
tened hands, occasionally uttering a few words which seemed to be in 
the tone of petition to the Great Unknown. When p]bierbing was 



October, 1S64.J Hall Awis at a Seal. 93 

operated on a second time, the ceremony was essentially the same. 
The company patiently awaited the an-ge-Ms appearance for half an 
hour, when he entered humming an Eskimo song, and then retiring, 
re-entered with the same song in the low door-way, Ook-har-loo again 
striking up her monotony. Among his antics at this time he grappled 
with and, with a seeming supernatural strength, readily threw down 
two of the strongest Innuits. 

Ot this an-koo-ting the chant is the most striking feature; it is low 
and monotonous, and often broken by the suppressed sobs and moaning 
of the sick. The grim, swarthy faces of the men and w omen spectrally 
illuminated by the fitful gleams of the stone lamp, and their dark bodies 
swaying awkwardly to and fro and keeping time to the rude intona- 
tions of their barbarous songs, make up a wild and unearthly scene. 

The last day of October was comparatively wami ; the wind 
was southerly. From the top of a neighboring hill, Hall saw with 
his marine glass a number of seals, from two to three miles to the 
northeast, basking on a floe One of them especiall}^ tempted him, 
as it was seen very near hummocky ice, which might serve as a mask 
until he could get within rifle-shot. Crossing the shallow bay, and 
trudging wearily over the very rougli ice in some places so massive 
as to hide the animal entirely from view, he at length again caught 
sight of it by peering from the height of a pile of ice that had been 
thrown up by pressure. But before he could come within rifle-shot, he 
was compelled to wind his way through a labyrinth of high masses 
of old ice from the far north which had grounded here, and were 
keeping the new ice between them in a dangerous state for traveling. 
The ice over which he walked was covered, too, with crystals which 



94 Meteorological Ohservafions. [Norember, i864. 

crisped so loudly under the foot that he could make his advance 
only while the seal was taking its cat-naps, which he found to vary 
from half a minute to a minute each only; he watched for these 
very closely. To secure a good position and a support for his rifle, he 
was obliged at last to throw himself flat on the ice, and hitch himself 
along, Eskimo fashion. In this way he got within fair range, and, peer- 
ing through a crevice in the hummock, saw the seal shake its flippers, 
roll from side to side, and then drop its head for what he hoped would 
be its last nap. After taking careful aim, he thought for a few seconds 
that he surely had his prize ; but on firing, the seal with one bound 
plunged handsomely through its hole into the sea, leaving him only the 
grim satisfaction of finding enough oil at the hole to show that his shot 
had taken eff'ect. He knew that unless a seal is killed at the instant, it 
is lost ; for it lies close to its hole, and generally with its head hanging 
over the edge, ready for a plunge. A deep fissure in the ice before him 
prevented any further efforts in this direction. 

The 1st of November was a day of storm, the wind blowing a 
gale and the snow flying furiously. Hall commenced making his me- 
teorological observations seven times a day. He had previously 
to this registered three times only ; — morning, noon, and niglit. He 
now added the hours 3 a. m., 9 a. m., 3 p. m., and 9 p. m. Nine of the 
thermometers presented to him by Tagliabue, of New York, were still 
at his command. They agreed well at the higher temperatures, but 
below zero their differences showed as much as ten degrees. He suc- 
ceeded in neatly repairing his sextant, using the tube of a broken ther- 
mometer as a blow-pipe and some "magic salve" as a flux. 

On renewing his plans for the coming season, the Innuits pro- 
posed to make their way early to Iwillik for their own purposes. 



November, 1864.] The IfinuUs Will go to liepulse Bay in the Spring. 95 

The first stopping-place on their route would be Oo-koo-ish-e-lik, 
Wager Bay, where they would build igloos and hunt the nuisk, the 
bear, and the seal. Quite early in the season a passage could be made 
by boats along the land-ice to Repulse Bay. Hall thought that he 
could go on with them to Neitchillej and there learn the best way of 
advancing his original plans, which, however, he already saw would 
require length of time, particularly to gain the sufficiently strong con- 
fidence of the Innuits to induce them to accompany him to King 
William's Land. His record says : "I must not say I will do so and 
so, but rather say I will do the work I came to perform (God helping 
me), take whatever time it Avill." Up to the 10th of the month his 
party had opened but a small part of the provision brought from the 
Monticello, and he had given the larger share of this, including 00 
pounds of pemmican, to his Innuit friends. But in turn he had been 
so generously feasted on reindeer, that he thought if he could live 
" one-fifth as well " during the remainder of his stay, he would have 
nothing to complain of 




CUP AND BALL. 

(Deposited at tlie Smitlisouian Institution.) 



The tribe was far from lacking a natural love of amusement. 
They had learned the games of checkers and dominos, doubtless from 



96 



The Key-low-tik. 



[November, 18t>4. 



the whalers, and it seemed possible to teach them chess. A favorite 
game was that of the cup and ball. 

They gave him an amusing exhibition of one of their serio-comic 
diversions. This was a performance on the key-low-tik, their bass- 
drum; the only musical instrument which he found among them. The 
instrument itself, and the changing characters from the comic and gro- 
tesque to the serious and superstitious, carried through the perform- 
ances by both men and women, are described at some length. 




PLAYING THE KEY-LOW-TIK. 



The drum is made from the skin of the deer, which is stretched 
over a hoop made of wood, or of bone from the fin of a whale, b}^ the 



November, 1S64.] 



Preparation of the Key-Join-t'ik. 



97 



use of a strong braided cord of sinew passed around a groove on the 
outside. The hoop is about 2^ inches wide, 1| inches thick, and 3 
feet in diameter, the whole instrument weighing about 4 pounds. The 
wooden drumstick, 10 inches in length and 3 inches in diameter, is 
called a hen-toon. 




KEY-LOW-TIK. 



Hall gives, in substance, this account of the process of prepar- 
ing the hey-low-tik : The deer-skin which is to be the head of 
the instrument is kept frozen when not in use. It is then thor- 
oughly saturated with water, drawn over the hoop, and temporarily 
fastened in its place by a piece of sinew. A line of heavy, twisted, 
sinew, about 50 feet long, is now wound tightly on the groove on the 
outside of the hoop, binding down the skin. This cord is fastened to 
the handle of the Jcey-low-tik, which is made to turn by the force of 
several men (while its other end is held firmly), and the line eased out 
as required. To do this a man sits on the bed-platform, " having one 
or two turns of the line about his body which is incased in furred 
deer-skins, and empaled by four upright pieces of wood." Tension is 
secured by using a round stick of wood as a lever on the edge of the 

skin, drawing it from beneath the cord. When any whirring sound is 

S. Ex. 27 7 



98 Playing the Key-low-tih. [ivoTcmbcr, is64. 

heard, little whisps of reindeer-hair are tucked in between the skin and 
the hoop, until the head is as tight as a drum. 

When the Jcey-low-tik is played, the drum-handle is held in the left 
hand of the performer, who strikes the edge of the rim opposite that 
over which the skin is stretched. He holds the drum'in different posi- 
tions, but keeps it in a constant fan-like motion by his hand and by 
the blows of the ken-toon struck alternately on the opposite sides of 
the edge. Skillfully keeping the drum vibrating on the handle, he 
accompanies this with grotesque motions of the body, and at intervals 
with a song, while the women keep up their own Innuit songs, one 
after another, through the whole performance. 

At this first exhibition which Hall witnessed some twenty-five 
men, women, and children — every one who could leave home — assem- 
bled to see the skill of the performers, who would try the newly-fin- 
ished instrument. As usual, the women sat on the platform, Turk 
fashion ; the men, behind them with extended legs. The women were 
gaily dressed. Tliey wore on each side of the face an enormous pig- 
tail, made by wrapping their hair on a small wooden roller a foot in 
length ; strips of reindeer-fur being wrapped with the hair. These 
were black and white for those who had sons, and black only for those 
who had none. Shining ornaments were worn on the head, and on 
the breast they had masonic-like aprons, the groundwork of which was 
of a flaming red color, ornamented with glass beads of many colors. 
The women thus presented a pleasing contrast with the dark visages 
of the men in the background ; while their naked infants were playing 
here and there in a mother's lap, or peering out from their nestling 
place in a hood, 

Ook-har-loo was the first performer. This young man was a son 



November, 1864.] Playing tJic Keij-low-tik 99 

of JEver-at, whose picture is given in Parry's Narrative of his second 
voyage, and who is named by him as helping to draw one of the 
charts. When OoJc-lar-Ioo was tired out, Oon-goo-too took up the keg- 
loiv tik, the women striking up for him their second song. Ou-e-Ja now 
gave Hall a punch in the side, which was understood to mean, "Just 
see what my people can do '' ; when the performers, stripping off their 
jackets to be naked from their loins up, alternately dealt each other's 
arms such fearful blows that Hall thought their very bones must be 
broken, and seemed to feel his own shoulders ache. The one who had 
played the key-Iow-tiJc the longer now struck his blows without mit- 
tens, and Ook-har-loo ere long gave signs of surrender. The times 
varied from 10 to 13 minutes each. 

Ar-too-a, Ar-mou, and Gii-e-la followed as performers at short in- 
tervals, one of them making as high as a hundred and sixty strokes in 
a minute with the ken-toon. Then Nu-ker-^Jioo, getting his hand under 
the key-low-tik, and dealing rapid blows first on one edge and then on 
the other, by this jugglery kept it vibrating in the air and brought out 
from it the same sounds as when played in the usual way. Hall, being 
then called out by the house, tried his hand, but for less than three 
minutes, when the key-low-tik was on the floor, his arm and wrist ach- 
ing from the weight, and the whole igloo convulsed with laughter. 
Ebierbing was called for, but was too weak from recent sickness to 
perform. Before this part of the exhibition closed, the performers 
showed up the differences in playing as practiced by the neighboring 
tribes. 

The meeting now suddenly changed to one of a serious character. 
Ook-bar-loo, when he resumed playing, instantly extinguished the lights, 
leaving only the dim moon to creep in through the fresh-water-ice 



100 A Move to the Walrus- Grounds. [woTcmbcr, ise-i. 

window of the 'ifjioo. He then commenced his talk with the spirits, 
accompanied by clapping of hands, jumping up and down, sideways 
and forwards, and then backing out from the ifjioo and returning. 
During all this an-koo-ting one and another of the audience kept 
repeating "words which seemed not unlike those of a penitent giving 
in his experience at a revival meeting." 

By the middle of this month the Innuits had finished their work 
on the reindeer-skins. Too-ko-li-too had labored for thirty days, fifteen 
hours out of the twenty-four, during which time, with but little assist- 
ance from Ebierbing even in cleaning the skins, she had made up, 
besides bedding, seven complete fur suits ; two for Hall, two for her 
husband, two for herself, and one for Rudolph. Preparation was now 
busily made for moving ofi" to the walrus-grounds, the first step toward 
which was to cover the sledge-runners with muck, a kind of peat 
obtained from a marsh after digging four feet tkrough the snoAv and 
about a foot into the frozen ground. The muck is saturated with 
water, and a handful at a time placed on the runners at the very 
coldest hour, to ice them. Several families moved ofi" on the 15tli. 
Ebierbing, who went forward with them to assist in erecting igloos, 
saw flocks of ducks moving south. The first huts Avhich were built 
were four connected ones having a common central place. In Hall's, 
Too-koo-li-too first covered the snow-bed place with boards, and put 
over these a quantity of dry shrubs and the reindeer-furs. Before 
Elall had left his old hut, on learning that the Innuit customs forbade 
the burning of shrubs in a new home, he had roasted enough coff"ee 
for a supply of two months. And before leaving the first igloo he had 
made the honest record in his journal, that on a visit from Ou-e-la 



November, 1864.) SuperstlUon. 101 

and Ar-tnou, they, with Ebierbing and himself, indulged with great 
freedom in the use of Hubbell's Golden Bitters, the indorsement on 
which is, "Good for dyspepsia." "Although the bitters were as thick 
as molasses, it was difficult to get it from the bottles quick enough to 
supply the demand." The next morning was one of headache and 
repentance to some ; yet the natives declared they had never been so 
liappy as on the night before. Long before this, however, they had 
learned from the whalers to drink, smoke, and swear. 

On entering their new igloos the Innuits renewed their perform- 
ances of the hey-low-tik and of an-koo-ting. In the latter of these 
performances the an-ge-JiO (Ar-too-a) now made use of three walrus 
spears. One of these he thrust into the wall of the snow-house, 
' and, after the usual accompaniments which have been already 
described, ran with it outside of the igloo, where his ejaculations 
were responded to by the party inside with the cries of ^^At-tee! 
At-tee !'''' Returning with his spear to the door, he had a severe 
wrestling match with four of the men, who overcame him. But 
coming again into the central igloo, and having the lights which had 
been at the first patted down, relit, he showed the points of two spears 
apparently covered with fresh blood, which he held up in the pres- 
ence of all. Muttering something in a low tone at them, he gave a 
puff and then wiped them clean with the Innuits' universal dish-cloth — 
the tongue. The an-ge-ko then recommenced his incantations, address- 
ing for a minute or so, with his head erect, the Great Power above, 
and then, with head on the floor, the Spirit below. Kneeling on Too- 
koo-li-too's fur jacket in the center of the hut, he kept this up for a full 
half hour. After his exhibition had closed. Hall learned that the Spirits 
had revealed to the an-ge-ko that he and Ebierbing must exchange 



102 Hall An-koo-ted. 



[IVovcmber, 18U4. 



wives for the night* This, Hall effectually intervened to forbid. He 
records, also, the clear testimony of the wife of one of the Innuits in 
behalf of Too-koo-li-too herself that she had repelled the previously 
attempted efforts on the part of the other women to persuade her to 
accept the decree. 

In a time of sickness during the month Hall himself had been 
prevailed on to be an-kooted, and the an-ge-ho had told him that his 
sickness had been owing to his having eaten on his first expedition 
tood-noo prepared in a wrong way, and to the fact that he had left in 
his own country an enemy who had tried to do him harm. When he 
acknowledged that these two things were true, the Innuits were much 
pleased with the evidence of power in their an-ge-ko, and Hall con- 
sented to obey the decree given him, that he should never again wear 
certain garments which had been presented to him by some of his 
Innuit friends. 

During the last days of the month several walrus hunts were 
entered upon, the first success in which was prevented by the poorness 
of the seal-skin lines which had been made to supply the loss of the 
stronger ones missed some time before from their place of deposit. 
From unmistakable signs noticed when they had gone down the coast 
for these lines, the natives were satisfied that they had been stolen by 
some party from one of the whale-ships. Hall accompanied them on 

* Heame says of the ludian tribes on the Sea of the North : " It is a very common custom 
in this country to exchange a night's lodging -with each other's -wives ; but this is so far from 
being considered criminal that it is esteemed one of the strongest ties of friendship between the 
two families ; in case of the death of either man the other considers himself bound to support the 
children of the deceased. This duty is never neglected. (Heame, p. 120.) Father Veniamlnotl', 
a Russian priest, who labored among the Aleutian tribes, is quoted by Mr. Dall as saying that 
formerly they practiced frequent secret orgies, and that "nf/ucHt shared all marilnl rif/his u-iih his 
host." These customs, however, as is well known, are not exclusively those of the North Ameri- 
can tribes. 



December, 1864.1 Followifig up tlic Walrus. 103 

their hunts, although he had been several times confined to his igloo 
by a sore throat and by bruises received on his rough sledge-journeys. 
He endeavored to supply the loss of the walrus-lines by loaning the 
sheets of his boat Sylvia. A bear and a number of walruses were 
secured ; others which were only struck on the ice were lost during the 
nights, when they escaped by the tide setting the floe back to the land. 
But the condition of the ice was fine for hunting, and the promise for 
the season was good. Hall notices that on each morning, after the 
men had gone off to hunt, their women took each a cup down to the 
shore and left it there ; probably under the idea that this would bring 
success. 

On the Gth of the month following, Ou-e-la and Ebierbing found 
a walrus of a large size butting his head through the ice, which was 
4 inches thick, with a force sufficient to throw masses of it several 
feet into the air. On a signal to the other hunters they scattered 
themselves, watching for another appearance. The animal burst 
through the ice six times before he was harpooned Generally, when 
pursued, he moves in a direct line, and the natives are accustomed 
to calculate where he will probably make his second or third rise. 
The holes which he works up through the ice are sometimes as far 
apart as 100 rods, but the distances decrease in proportion to the 
length of the pursuit, during which the animal is often drowned. The 
Innuits sometimes follow nearly the same plan in drowning ducks, 
though this is done when there is no ice to cover them. A flock 
which is swimming is approached by the hunter in a bj-ak, when most 
of them take alarm and fly away, but some dive down. The hunter 
rapidly follows in the probable direction in which the now submarine 
ducks are swimming, and the instant that one appears above water, it 



104 Ou-C-IaS Stories. [December, 1 864. 

is frightened down by shouts and antic tricks in the way of motions. 
This one is selected as the victim or prize, and, as the hunter gets near 
it, he sees and follows it through the clear water. As often as it 
comes up to breathe, his shouts and motions follow, and thus the pur- 
suit is made till finally the poor duck is dead. Hall remembered that in 
1861, when making a passage through the Beare Sound of Frobisher, 
some of his Innuit friends could not be restrained from pursuing this 
sport till they had deceived the ducks in the way described. " It 
certainly is an economical way to secure provision without the use of 
spears or guns." 

On the same day on which the walrus was secured, several of the 
natives had a desperate encounter with a huge Polar, killing it while 
three of their dogs kept the animal at bay. One of the lances which 
had entered the animal, he drew out with his teeth, and gave their 
best dog a terrible wound, cutting through the skin and flesh of his 
neck as clean as with a sharp knife. 

Oii-e-la, on returning from these hunts, entertained Hall with 
some huge bear-stories. With much emphasis he told of a woman who, 
a few years before, had heard a strange noise outside her igloo, and on 
leaving it, was seized by a large bear, who completely scalped her and 
disemboweled her child. An old man in the igloo, although a cripple 
in both legs, fastening a long knife to the end of a pole and crawling 
through the narrow passage-way of the hut at the doorway, braced 
liis lance against the icy floor, when the bear, Avhile springing toward 
his new victim, became his own executioner by receiving the knife 
directly through his heart. Ou-c-Ia further said that he had once, 
single-handed, killed a large bear with a lance only; at another time 
lie had killed a bear of ecpuil size with bow and airow, without the 



December, 1S64. J " T/«P ArC-Ia^ 105 

assistance even of dogs. He had seen a bear kill a walrus by using a 
piece of ice weighing more than any one man could lift. The bear 
rounds the ice into a ball, and stealthily runs on his hind legs toward 
his sleeping victim ; if the first blow on the head of the walrus fails 
to kill, he finishes his work by repeated blows on the thick skull. He 
contents himself with the blubber only, leaving the mass of meat for 
the fox, or for other animals which may follow his tracks. 

A peculiar animal w^as described to Hall, an account of w^hich is 
scarcely to be found in Arctic books. The natives speak of it as 
being larger than the bear, and as very ferocious and much more diffi- 
cult to be killed. It has grayish hair, a long tail, and short, thick 
legs, its fore feet being divided into three parts like the partridge's; 
its hind feet are like a man's heels. When resting, it sits upright like 
a man. A Neitchille Innuit, crawling into a hole for shelter in the 
night, had found one sound asleep and quickly dispatched it with his 
knife. It may be added here that Ebierbing, now residing in the 
United States, confirms such accounts of the "-4rc-Za," and says that 
the animal once inhabited his native country on Cumberland Sound. 

On the morning of the 10th, Ebierbing, Ou-e-Ia, Ar-too-a, Ar- 
mou, Oon-goo-too, and Nu-ker-zJioOj accompanied by Rudolph, started 
on two sledges with full dog-teams to visit the whaling-vessels winter- 
ing in Depot Island — a contemplated trip which had been deferred 
only till the walrus season should commence. Rudolph was the hap- 
piest of the party. He had proved of little service to Hall, having 
early become dissatisfied with the strange mode of life to which his 
employer had habituated himself Yet he was at times a voracious 
eater, consuming as much as 8 pounds of solid food at a meal, and then 
complaining of a feeling of "gone-ness," and fearing he would starve 



106 JRudoIph Dismissed. [Ucccmbcr, ise-i. 

to death. A part of the time he had been separately put in charge of 
one of the natives. He now looked forward with great satisfaction to 
resuming his life on shipboard and to ship-diet The parting was 
friendly. Hall gave him a letter to the captain of the Monticello, ask- 
ing that he would get a place for him on one of the whalers. Rudolph 
was also cautioned to liave care of himself on the sledge journey, and 
the natives were requested to see that he should not be frost-bitten. 
At the same time a confidential history of Rudolph's conduct was sent 
to the ship, lest the man should gain credit if he attempted to spread 
misrepresentations among the whalers. His dissatisfaction and his 
uselessness to Hall had been largely owing to his disease of homesick- 
ness and, during the latter part of his time, to an attack of scurvy. 

A second letter to Captain Chapel requested that he would grant, 
at Hall's cost, whatever reasonable requests the natives might make, if 
the value of the articles asked for by them sliould exceed that of the 
skins and clothing taken down by them for barter. Among the articles 
for which Hall himself asked were a gun, a spy-glass, some walrus-lines, 
and tobacco, with a loaf of bread and a piece of butter for Too-koo-li- 
too. He wanted 50 pounds of tobacco, for it went further than any- 
thing else in gaining the good-will and help of the natives. Ou-e-la 
waited for the dispatches, which were made up by 9 a. m., and then 
overtook the sleds a mile in advance out on the rough ice, where the 
dogs were howling and springing with all their might to be off. Hall 
went with him that far, and on parting gave Ou-e-Ia a kiss (koo-nik) 
on his iron though warm cheek. The journal says : 

The sun was just liftiug its glorious face from the ice horizon of Kowc's Wel- 
come. The air was calm and the temperature 92° below freezing-point by my large 
thermometer; therefore it was dry and exhilarating. The heavens, oi)posite the 
sun, were glowing iu warm crimson clouds, their upper edges tinted with purple 



December, 1S64.] Tlic NttUves Visit tilt WJiolers. 107 

and silvery hues. The day throughout was the coldest of the season, as the ther- 
mometer showed, but not the coldest as far as its effect upon the human system 
is concerned. The average of three sets of observations on eight thermometers 
gave 65° below freezing-point as the average of the day. I have tried some 
experiments, perhaps too simple to require record. I put one of my fingers in 
contact with the brass i)late of oue of the thermometers; instantly I felt a sharp 
running sensation; in a few seconds that part of my flesh exposed to the brass 
plate was white as snow and frozen solid. A smart rubbing with my other hand 
soon took the frost out, and the finger was as well as ever. I placed another 
finger for thirty seconds in exposed mercurj^; the smarting at first was severe, in 
fact, felt as though the finger was in a fire, but before the thirty seconds expired 
the smarting ceased, and I felt noways disagreeable. On taking my finger out 
of the mercury, it was frozen solid as a rock; a smart 
persevering rubbing again took the frost out. I tried 
several times during the day the exi)eriment of keeping 
my hands unmittened, walking around thus for half an 
hour without their feeling very cold, and could have con- 
tinued with my hands thus exposed for a longer time 
had I been on a smart walk, as when traveling on a jour- 
ney. When there is no moisture in the air, as to-day, no dog-skin otttens. 
one would suppose the temperature as cold as the thermometers indicate. I have 
felt colder in the States with the thermometer 32° than here in my walks to-day 
with hands and face exposed and having no other coat on but my civilization 
(Brevoort) one. 

The letter of the most interest sent by the natives to the whalers 
reads as follows : 

WiNTEE QUAKTEKS, IN IGLOO, 

Noo-WooK, West end Eowe's Welcobie, 
Lat. 04° 40' K, Long. 87° 20' W., Friday, December 10, 1864. 
Deab Feiend Chapel : In this letter I have some deeply interesting intelli- 
gence to communicate to you. Since falling in with the natives I have not been 
idle. Nothing in Parry's narrative of second voyage for the discovery of the North- 
west Passage relating to the Eskimos of Winter Island and Igloolik but these 
natives are perfectly posted up in. Indeed, I find through my superior interpre- 
ter, Too-koo-li- too, that many deeply interesting incidents occurred at both-named 
places that never found their place in Parry's or Lyon's works. But the great work 
already done by me is the gainuig little by little from these natives, through Too- 
koo-li- too and Ebierbing, news relating to Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This, 




108 Further Reported News of Fran/dhi's 3Ien. [Ucccmber, i8«4. 

you know, was the great object of my mission to tlie North. I cannot stop to tell 
you now all I have gained of this people — no, not the one hundredth i)art. 
[The natives are now loading sledge; it is 7 o'clock 30 minutes a. m,] 
I wni give you very briefly what the people of England and America will be 
most interested to learn. When I come down I shall bring my dispatches and 
journals up to the time of writing you, and these will be committed to your care 
for transmitting to the States. The most important matter that I have acquired 
relates to the fact that there may yet be three survivors of Sir John Franklin's 
Expedition, and one of these, Crozier, the one who succeeded Sir John Frankhn 
on his death. The details are deeply interesting, but this must suflQce till I come 
down: Crozier and three men with him were found by a cousin of Ou-e-la (Albert), 
Slioo-she-ark-nooh (John), and Ar-too-a (Frank), whUe moving on the ice from one 
igloo to another; this cousin having with him his famUy and engaged in sealing. 
This occurred near Neitchille (Boothia Felix Peninsula). Crozier was nothing 
but " skin and bones," was nearly starved to death, while the three men with him 
were fat. The cousin soon learned that the three fat men had been Uving on 
human flesh, on the flesh of their companions who all deserted the two ships that 
were fast in mountains of ice; while Crozier was the only man that would not eat 
human flesh, and for this reason he was almost dead fi-om starvation. This cousin, 
who has two names (but I cannot stop to get them now), took Crozier and the 
three men at once in charge. He soon caught a seal, and gave Crozier quickly a 
little — a very little piece, Avhich was raw — only one mouthful the first day. The 
cousin did not give the three fat men anything, for they could well get along, till 
Crozier's life was safe. The next day the cousin gave Crozier a little larger piece 
of same seal. By the judicious care of this cousin for Crozier, his life was saved. 
Indeed, Crozier's own judgment stuck to him in this terrible situation, for he agreed 
with the cousin that one little bit was all he should have the first day. When 
the cousin first saw Crozier's face, it looked so bad — his eyes all sunk in, tlic 
face so skeleton-hkc and haggard, that he did not dare to look upon Crozier's 
face for several days after; it made him feel so bad! This noble man, wliom 
the whole civilized world will ever remember for humanity, took care of 
Crozier and his three men, save one who died, through the whole winter. One 
man, however, died a short time after the cousin found them, not because he 
starved, but because he was sick. In the spring, Crozier and the remaining two 
men accompanied this cousin on the Boothia I'elix Peninsula to Neitchille, where 
there were many Innuits. Crozier and each of his men had guns and a plenty of 
ammunition, and many pretty things. They killed a great many ducks, nmcyers, 
&c., with their guns. Here they lived with the Ininiits at Ncitchille, and Crozier 



December, 1864.] HolVs Letter to Chapel. 109 

became fat and of good health. Crozier told this cousin that he was once at 
IiciUilc (Repulse Bay), at Winter Island and Igloolik, many years before, and 
that at the two last-named jjlaces he saw many Innuits, and got acquainted with 
them. This cousin had heard of Parry, Lyon, and Crozier, from his Inuuit friends 
at Eepulse Bay, some years previous, and therefore when Crozier gave him his 
name he recollected it. The cousin saw Crozier one year before he found him and 
the three men, where the two ships were in the ice. It Avas there that he found 
out that Crozier had been to Igloolik. 

Crozier and the two men lived with the Neitchille Innuits some time. The 
Innuits liked him (C.) very much, and treated him always very kindly. At length 
Crozier, with his two men and one Innuit, who took along a Male (?) [an India- 
rubber boat, as Ebierbing thinks it was, for aU along the ribs there was some- 
thing that could be filled with air], left Neitchille to try to go to the Tioh-lu-nah 
country, taking a south course. 

When Ou-ela (Albert) and his brothers, in 1854, saw this cousin that had 

been so good to Crozier and his men, at Pelly Bay which is not far from Neitch- 

ille, the cousin had not heard whether Crozier and the two men and Neitchille 

Innuit had ever come back or not. The Innuits never think they are dead — do 

not believe they are. Crozier ottered to give his gun to the cousin for saving his 

life, but he would not accept it, for he was afraid it would kill him, it made such 

a great noise, and killed everything with nothing. Then Crozier gave him a 

long, curious knife (sword, as Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too say it was), and many 

pretty things besides. [The dogs are all in harness, and sledges loaded, and 

Innuits waiting for my letters. I promise to be ready in 30 minutes.] Crozier 

told the cousin of a tight with a band of Indians — not Innuits, but Indians. This 

must have occurred near the entrance of Great Fish or Back's Eiver. More of 

this when I see you. # # # 

God bless you. 

C. F. HALL. 

This unusually ill-written letter is quoted almost literally in order 

to show Hall's excited state of mind on receiving some of the earliest 

of what he then believed to be news of Franklin's party. It will 

appear in the latter part of the Narrative that the "cousin," so much 

spoken of, was found by Hall to have been far less useful or humane 

to Crozier than is here noted. Hall's readiness to believe everything 

heard from the natives on his first acquaintance with them was largely 



110 Superstitions. [Wecembcr, 1864. 

corrected by his further experience. At first he seems to have beheved 
what he wished to beheve. But his later journals record a number 
of corrected judgments, always frankly entered, and even against 
himself 

Nearly all the men were now absent from the settlement. After one 
unsuccessful attempt made by some of the natives who remained, to 
secure a walrus where the ice was found too thick for the animal to break 
through, a second effort was rewarded by their capturing the larger 
part of one, the remainder being lost by the ice-floes coming together 
and massing upon it. They had resumed their hunt in consequence of 
having seen, the night before, '' a walrus springing right up through 
the ice-floor of their igloo"; — to them a sure sign of success. 

Another instance of their low superstitious customs was thus 
shown : The pale-face, having expressed a desire for a change of food, 
was presented with the head and neck of a reindeer, for fear that there 
would be great trouble in catching a walrus ; but this provision could 
be placed neither on the floor nor behind the lamps on the platform, 
nor could it be either cooked or eaten with walrus-oil or on the same 
day with walrus-meat. Pieces of the frozen mass were, therefore, 
chipped off on the bed-platform with carefulness that not one should 
fall upon the floor, and they were dipped in old rancid seal-oil before 
being eaten. Four quarts of Avalrus-oil were at the same time pre- 
sented to Hall for his lamp. 

A leaf from Hall's journal of the 18th, written on receiving this 

present, will further show the care which he exercised in subjecting 

himself to the low superstitions of the tribe : 

Erh-tu-a came in bringing in Ler arms the head a\id neck (raw, solid, and 
frozen) of a reindeer for me, as slie heard that I wanted a change from walrus- 



December, 1S64.J SuperstiUonS. Ill 

meat. This venison had to be completely enveloped before it eonld be brought 
into the igloo, and, when in, conld only be placed on the bed-platform. To have 
placed it on the floor or on the platform behind the fire-lamp, among the walrus, 
musk-ox, and polar-bear meat which occupy a goodly portion of both of these 
places, would have horrified the whole town, as, according to the actual belief of 
the Innuits, not another walrus could be secured this year, and there would ever 
be trouble in capturing any more. 

Old Mother OoJc-bar-loo and the son of Erl:-tu-a were both in my igloo at 
the time this present was made. Both these parties are, of course, greatly 
devoted to having everything according to the way of old — in other words, 
according to the custom of their fathers and many preceding generations. They 
watched my every movement ; but I was no small adei)t in this matter, so I pro- 
ceeded to gratify the calls of a hungry stomach in the following manner : I first 
unveiled Erlctuah gift on the very spot where she had placed it, and called for a 
hatchet. Frozen chips of meat now flew to the right and left, ivestward ; not one 
toward the floor. I had to be very, very cautious about that. These chips of raw 
frozen venison, when gathered up, made quite a pile for my breakfast. A cup of 
oil in which to sop these chips was soon near me. Then I proceeded, just as any 
Innuit would, to eat a hearty meal! The oil which I used as the sop was seal-oil, 
rancid and stinking. According to Innuit custom, walrus-blubber, or oil from 
it, cannot be used on any account with tood-noo meat. Notwithstanding the oil 
I used was of the condition I describe, yet I must state the truth that I have 
really got so far along in Innuits taste to like it thus, and to like it very much. 

Particles of meat that were scattered around on the bed-platform during my 
carving operations with the hatchet could not be brushed on the floor, as this 
woidd have brought down the indignation of my houseful of visitors. The tooJc- 
too skins on which these fine dust jiieces were had to be taken up and shaken at 
the farther end or back side of the bed-place, next to the wall of the igloo. In 
this way, and in this ico.y only, coidd the meat particles, including even such snow 
and ice as had been jammed off the neck and head, be disposed of to the satisfac- 
tion of an honest, kind-hearted, but superstitious people. 

The head of this gift, I regret to learn, cannot be cooked now, though from 
it I could have a delicious soup. The whys and wherefores are that it woidd 
make ti'ouble among the walrus. It can be done after the walrusing season is 
over, and any time before it begins again. 

This Erk-tu-a was one of the visitors to the ships of Parry and 
Lyon on their Second Expedition, 1821 to 1823. She gave Hall the 



112 Oo-oo-took on Parry's Ship, 1824. [December, is64. 

Innuit tradition of a punishment mentioned in Parry's Narrative as 
administered for theft, which story is an illustration of the power of 
superstitious belief held by this people in their an-ge-ko ; — or, as this 
word was pronounced at Ig-'loo-lik, where Parry was, an-nat-ko. Oo- 
oo-took, a superior an-nat-ko, was charged by Parry when at Ig-loo-lik 
with the crime of theft for taking a shovel, or a part of one, from along- 
side of the ship. Parry had him taken to a place between decks, and 
his hands firmly lashed up to the mast. Then two guns were loaded 
and fired at him. The balls did not hit him, but one passed close to 
his head and lodged in the mast. The other ball went close to his 
loins, but did not injure Irim. The guns were so near his body that 
the powder felt hot. Parry fired one of the guns, and came very near 
killing himself, the ball glancing and rebounding in such a way that it 
passed close to his head. Another gun was about to be used in firing 
at Oo-oo-took, but it was found to be cracked (both barrel and stock), 
and, therefore, it was laid aside. Then Parry caused him to be 
whipped with something that was made of ropes with knots in them — 
cat-o'-nine-tails. The Innuits standing around and witnessing all this 
wanted to help Oo-oo-took defend himself, but he said: "Let the Koh- 
lu-nas try to kill me ; they cannot, for I am an an-nat-ko^ Then Oo- 
oo-took^s hands were untied, after which the koh-lu-nas tried to cut his 
head and hands off with long knives — probably swords. Every time 
a blow was struck, the extreme end of the knife came close to Oo-oo- 
took'' s throat ; occasionally the blade came just above the crown of his 
head, and when the attempt was made to cut off his hands the long 
knife came down very near his wrists ; but, after all, he was uninjured 
because he was a very good An-nat-ko. Some of the blows, however, did 
execution, cutting deep gashes in throat, head, and wrists ; bat at 



December, 1S64. J Oo-oo-tooli 0)1 Parry' s Sliip^ 1824. 113 

each stroke, as the knife was lifted, the wounds instantly healed icp, the 
an-nat-ko being- made whole by the Good Spirit who protected him. 

When Oo-oo-took was permitted to go on deck, he attempted to go 
ashore. He was passing out of the gangway when four men seized 
him ; but during the struggle to free himself from further punishment, 
he kicked one koh-lu-na down the snow-steps, which fall nearly killed 
him, and the koh-lu-na suffered with a lame back for a long time. 
Finally, the koh-lu-na conquered him and put him down between 
decks, in a cold, dark place, where he kept him two days and two 
nights, but while so confined, one good koh-lu-na, in a very sly way, 
gave him something to eat; otherwise he had nothing to eat or 
drink. 

After Oo-oo-took had been one day and one night in the dark hole, 
he thought he would use his power as an an-nat-ko, and destroy the 
vessel by splitting it tlu'ough the middle from stem to stern. So he 
commenced calling to his aid the Good Spirit, when a great cracking- 
noise was made, now and then, under the ship, and at the end of the 
two days and two nights' confinement, the koh-lu-nas, fearing from 
such great and terrific noises that the ship would be destroyed, let 
Oo-oo-took go. 

This tradition, which Hall says was believed by all the other In- 
nuits around him, is in rather curious contrast with the account given 
by Parry himself, which is as follows : [Official Narrative, p. 412.] 

Tlie delinquent was, therefore, put down into the Fiiry's store-room passage 
and closely confined there for several hours ; when, having collected several of 
the natives on board the Fury, I ordered him to be stripped and seized up in 
theii' presence, and to receive a dozen lashes on the back with a cat-o'-nine-tails. 
The instant this was over, his countrymen called out, " Ti-mun, iimun-na^ — 
S. Ex. 27- 6 



114 Hall Corrects his Dates. [Deceiub^T, is64. 

that's light, tluit's right ; and seemed much relieved from the fright they hud before 
been in while the fate of the thief seemed doubtful; but in three minutes after, 
not one of them Avas to be found near the ships, for they hurried off to the huts 
as fast as their legs and sledges could carry them. The example proved just 
what we desired ; in less than eight and forty hours, men, women, and children 
came to the ships with the same contidence as before, always abasing Oo-oo-iooJc, 
l)rouonnciug themselves and us uncommonly good people, but evidently more 
cautious than before of really incurring our displeasure The occurrence just 
related; instead of being placed to the account of these peoj^le's bad i)ropeusi- 
ties, rather served to remind us of the rareness of such occurrences, and, there- 
fore, to furnish fresh proof of their general honesty. 

From a conversation held about this time, through Too-koo-li- 
too as interpreter, Hall believed that he had gained the key to the 
fact mentioned by Dr. Rae in his report to the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany in 1854, that the natives at Pelly Bay had great objections 
to his party traveling across the country in a westerly direction, 
and had attempted to puzzle and mislead the interpreter. Hall was 
told that " some of the Innuits with whom he was wintering, had tried, 
together with others from Pelly Bay, to persuade Dr. Rae to go to 
Shartoo, an island in Akkoolee Bay (the island called Prince of Wales 
Island, and the bay, Committee Bay, in Dr. Rae's chart), where lie 
would find spars, rigging, casks, and boxes, and perhaps the hulk of a 
vessel. They understood from him that these were the very things 
he was looking for." The Innuits, therefore, professed that the objec- 
tions referred to had been made in good faith, and in order to lead 
Rae's party to the best locality. 

On the 23d, Hall discovered that he had lost a day in his reckon- 
ing. He had not confided in his dates for some time back, but now 
found the means for a, correction. Going to the top of n hill to 
see the sun rise at 10 a m., he saw it about a diameter and a 



Dcct-uibcr, 1864.] G^fts Received froui the Whalers. 115 

half from the horizon, above a low, thick bank of frost-smoke which 
hung over the sea-ice. Through the upper margin of the frost-smoke 
the true sun was clearly seen without any dazzling rays; but, above, 
two mock-suns showed themselves with a brilliancy overpowering the 
eye. With his pocket sextant he measured the angular distance 
between the nearest limbs of the sun and the moon, and found it to be 
approximately 62° 30'; which he verified by the use of his larger 
sextant. His table of lunar distances in the Nautical Almanac 
showed this as the true distance for December 23d in place of the 22d, 
as he had at first supposed the day to be. Looking over his journal, 
he discovered that the lost day could be accounted for by the want 
of all notes on one of his sick days, November 25. 

The sledge party now returned, and were heartily welcomed as 
soon as their very quiet entrance was noticed. One of the sleds hav- 
ing become unmanageable by the breaking off of the muck-shoeing, 
the dogs had found it hard work to draw the heavy return load of 
natives and goods piled up on the other one; their fatigue had pre- 
vented the howling usual on their approaching home. 

Two chests and a box, directed to Hall, were soon slid along 
through the snow passage-way into his igloo. They contained a 
variety of donations from Captains Chapel, of the Monticello ; Rogers, 
of the Concordia; White, of the Black Eagle; Tyson, of the Ante- 
lope, and Jeffries, of the George and Mary. Besides the very wel- 
come provision which made up the mass of these gifts, a quantity of 
different-colored beads and brass ornaments for the head had been 
sent as presents to the women, together with some articles to be 
exchanged for furs. In his record of the day, which not unfrequently 
is found written as thougli it were a letter to his two never-forgotten 



116 TJie Innuits Fond of Ardent Spirits. (December, isc4. 

friends, the following expressions show his appreciation of the change 

in diet now experienced : 

O, my dear Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Brevoort, what a glorious supper we have 
had to-night; a change now and then in his food is what a white man likes. In- 
deed, the Innuits themselves like a change from their food to that of civilization 
after getting a little accustomed to it. 

The journal of the 24th contains the record of a second indul- 
gence to the natives in his serving out to all who had assisted in build- 
ing his new igloo a quantity of Bourbon whisky, diluted with hot water 
and sweetened with sugar. This was dealt out contrary to his previous 
resolutions, but under the idea that, as they had acquired a taste for it 
from the whalers, it would be of service to him to indulge them occa- 
sionally. He adds: "I have found that I can do without liquor, and I 
do not touch a drop of anything stronger than tea or coffee. I will not 
say the Innuits shall not have a few drops once in two or three weeks, 
but the quantity to each shall be very small." 

The sledge journey to the ships, 135 miles distant, had been made 
in ninety-nine hours, and the return journey in seventy-eight; allow- 
ing, as did Ebierbing, one of the party, one-half of the time on their 
return as spent in stoppages, the average distance traveled had been 
about three and a half miles an hour. Captain Chapel sent back to 
Hall a letter of cordial good feeling, offering him further assistance. 
It has been already noticed as a fact, well known in New London, 
that the whalers wintering in this region understood the instructions 
of their employers as authorizing them to assist him very freely. 

Chapel's letter, in speaking of the temperature where he was win- 
tering, said : 

The mercury has l)ccn from 36° to 56"^ below zero for the last fiftoon days. 
The glass has not boon above —32° for twenty days, and the large spirit tlior- 



December, 1864.] Decrec oftJie An-ge-ko. 117 

inometer you gave me, and in whicli I put so much confidence, has been frozen 
for three Aveeko. It froze with the mercury at — 30°, aud when the mercury stood 
at 34° below, the spirit was 100° below. This would surprise our New York 
friends if we should tell them. * 

An invitation having been given to the men while visiting the ships 
that they should return and bring their wives with them, Hall was 
glad to find that, at the next an-koot-ing, the an-ge-ko announced an 
order from the Good Spirit that these visits should not be made, lest 
death after death should occur in the tribe. In addition to other plain 
reasons for his being gratified at this decree, there was now a better 
hope that the whole party would move early in the spring to Eepulse 
Bay. He felt sure that his further plans, which depended on this, 
would be defeated if these visits were made. 

On the 25th, he took a meridian altitude of the sun, and found 
the true altitude to be 1° 51'; the observed lowest limb to sea-ice 
horizon, 2°. The observation was made from an elevation 30 feet 
above the sea-level. Although the sun was quite too low for reliable 
work, yet the latitude found by working up the observation was G4° 
43' 45", an approximation he little expected, as the true latitude is 64° 
46' 20". 

On the 26th, he went out with the natives on a walrus-hunt, to 
observe the movements of the ice in the Welcome as well as to see the 
walrus and the hunters The following account of the hunt is largely 
condensed from his own notes : 

At 8 a. m. he left his igloo, leading by a long trace-line one of 

"111 conncctiou with notes of like extreme teiiipcratnros and the unreliahility of l)oth mer- 
curial and spirit thermometers, see "The last of the Arctic Voyages," by Sir Edward Belcher, 
18.55, pp. 20iV208; also, notes of a like character in other Arctic Narratives, including Sir George 
Nares' " Voy.age to the Polar Sea." Hall's ovni journal has a nnmber of snch records; also of his 
repeated regrets that he had other than standard instruments with him. 



118 The Walrus-Hunt. (December, 1 864. 

the large dogs which were to be employed in dragging the walrus 
home; several other dogs were led by the Innuits, but by far the 
larger number were allowed to run loose, preceding or following the 
hunters. The distance to the walrus-grounds had been for some time 
constantly increasing as the land-floe widened, and the animals, accord- 
ingly, shifted their feeding-grounds to the new ice or to the fissures 
near its edge. Having crossed the half-mile belt of very rough ice 
near the coast, and advanced about six miles, Hall came, to this edge. 
A breeze from the north was driving the floe to the southward at the 
speed of a quick walk, and as it pressed heavily on the edge of the 
fixed ice, the noise was so terrible that he was at times forced to draw 
himself back several paces from the point to which he had ventured. 
For scores of miles to the north and south, the drifting floe was grind- 
ing its uneven face against the firm but jagged front on which ho 
stood. Mounting a high ridge of ice, he saw, as far as the eye could 
reach seaward and up and down the Welcome, a boundless field slowly 
moving onward toward the south, but crushing to atoms miles and 
miles of massive ice ; now rearing up mountains on mountains, now 
plowing up acres into high ridges. 

Ou-e-la, who had joined him, was unable to reach a large walrus 
which rose in a small water-space five fathoms off", for the " squeezed, 
rolling, craunching mass" was working between the floes, lie gave 
a quick signal to those on the drifting floe, and Ar-mou and Ar-too-a 
ran rapidly toward the walrus; but just as Ar-mou had his harpoon 
raised, the animal disappeared in the water. Hall and Ou-e-la then 
directed their steps toward the loose pack which the others had already 
gained, to reacli which the sharp eye of the Innuit quickly discovered 
the only possible crossing. A quick run, a few steps over sludge and 



Oeceinber, 1864> 



The Walrus-Hunt 



119 



powdered ice, a leap from this tumbling block to that one, and 
a final leap to the driving floe, brought the two safely over. 

Walruses could now be seen in every direction ; some but- 
ting up ice-fragments from the solid main ; some with their 
heads through the butted holes ; some with a large part of the 
body above the ice. The hunters were busily at work. In one 
direction two Innuits were under full lun for 
the same blowing walrus, the dogs running 
around them. All at once these hunters 
stopped, for the animal had taken the alarm 
and gone down. In another direction an ex- 
cited group were seen, one throwing the lance, 
another holding on a line, one jumping this way 
and another tliat, for a walrus appeared to be 



c. 
p 

p. 
o 







B. — Joint with thongs 
loosened, Avhen not 
in use, to preserve 
their elasticity. 



C. — Knob on the han- 
dle to secure a firm 
hold. 



a secured prize. With some difficulty Hall gained this s|)ot, but found 



\ 



120 A Death- Struggle. [December, 1S64. 

only one Innuit remaining, while the reddened ice and the hole 
showed a severe conflict. Shoo-she-arJc-nooJc had harpooned a very 
larg-e walrus, and he and Ebierbing had lanced it until it was almost 
dead. The harpoon, however, slipped out and the animal escaped, 
Ebierbing losing his lance-head. 

An extensive floe of the " walrusing-ice" was now seen shooting 
over the ice on which they stood, and advancing from the north at the 
speed of a moderate walk ; its thickness was two inches, the same as 
that on which they stood. They were two miles from the land-floe, 
upon ice which bent like leather at every step, often yielding two or 
three inches without a fracture, and it would not do to remain at rest 
on such ice. They were compelled to be constantly in motion, as the 
situation demanded. 

Hall hastened to a second group of Innuits who were as busily 
occupied as the first, and in a few moments found himself pulling 
away with others on a line which was fast to a large walrus. After a 
few pulls, the half-killed animal came up in a flouncing, tumbling way. 
He was furiously mad. He had not only been harpooned, but lanced 
and lanced again and again, so that at every blow, quarts of thick, 
dark blood were thrown up, scattering itself about, painting the ice, 
the dogs, and the party with a crimson hue. 

What a lioriific looking creature a walnis is, especially in the face! 
It looks wicked, detestably bad. Indeed, a devil incarnate could not have a 
more repulsive look to Turk or Christian. A hard death did tliis one die. lie 
fought desiierately, but steel and sinewy arms, under the control of cool, courag(!- 
ous hearts, finally conquered. As often as he came up to blow, he was met by tiio 
lance of the hari)ooner, who thrust it quick and deep into the heart and churned 
away until the walrus withdrew by diving under the ice and llippering away to 
the h'ligth of the line. Then, at each new appearance, he woidd fasten his long- 
ivory tusk (one had been broken olf, i>robably in some fight) uiion the edge of 



December, 1S64. 



Securing the Prize. 



121 



the ice, aud turning his eyes around would spend liis fury on tlie lirst of his ene- 
mies who approached. He then again flippered back, and, as the uplifted lance 
was poised, moved violently forward and upward, throwing forward his head 
with a circling sweep, as if to drive his tusk to the very heart of his assailant. 




What a terrible blow a walrus can deal with his head and tusks ! When he 
came up to breathe, which he did several times through difierent holes, resting 
with his tusk hooked onto the edge of the ice, at every breathing he expelled 



122 



Disposal of the Walrus. 



[December, 1864. 



tlirougli his white-walled mouth a frightful stream of hot life-blood, and as the 
hungry dogs rushed up fearlessly to the very fountain whence the luscious, sa- 
vory gore issued, the dying walrus qiiickly raised his head and struck it forward 
Avith tremendous force, though to little purjiose, as the dogs were too quick dodg- 
ing the blows. Shoo-she-arJc-nooJc at last cut a gash in the neck with his peloud 
(long knife) and thrust the i^oint into the very marrow of the spine. 

A fresh opening was now made in the ice, and to this the carcass 
was towed. Then the Hne, made fast to the tough skin on the nose, 
was taken to the point of a small hummock five fathoms distant, and 
back again through a hole in the same tough skin. With this pur- 
chase, five of the party pulled away on the line, gradually sliding the 
carcass upon the ice. It weighed about 2,200 pounds. 

This done, each In- 
nuit sprang to the task of 
cutting open the carcass from 
head to tail, that it might 
cover over as large an area 
as possible on the ice. Yet 
the moment they commenced 
to haul up, the ice began to 
bend, and by the time the 
walrus was disemboweled, the water covered it 6 inches deep. lie 
was now cut up, longitudinally, into three parts, without being 
skinned, and while this cutting was going on, the dogs acted like so 
many devils, and it was impossible, even with a spear, to keep them 
away from the blood and flesh. The backbone, the lights, and a small 
portion of the entrails only were thrown away. The edges of the 
longitudinal parts were then placed together by lines, to give each 
mass a rounded shape. The paunch accidentally fell in the water. 




HEAD OF A WALIiUS. 



December, 1864.] TJw Himt RcnGwecl. 123 

disappointing Hall, who was thinking of a clam-feast. He had ex- 
pected to find the paunch well filled, as usual, with clams clean of 
their shells. He says that rarely is any part of a shell larger than 
a dime found within the animal. Having often picked up a single 
shell close by a walrus-hole, he believed that the habit of the animal 
is to dig but one clam at a time, and then come up to blow and expel 
the shell. He wonders how it opens the clam so skillfully as not to 
fracture the shell. 

The homeward journey was attended with the usual troubles in 
crossing fissures and regaining the land-floe, but at 4.30 p. m. the 
party reached their igloos. The dogs, divided into three teams, drew 
the walrus-rolls, which slid along over the rough ice more readily than 
a sled Ou-e-la, Ar-too-a, and Nu-her-zlwo, who had been further to 
the southeast, joined Hall and his party on the way home, Ou-e-la 
having lost his harpoon in an unsuccessful attempt to secure another 
walrus. 

One animal only having been taken at this time, the hunt Avas 
resumed in the closing days of the month, when a xerj long journey 
was made to determine whether the animals were deserting their feed- 
ing-grounds. Many holes were seen, but no indications of a recent 
visit, and there seemed no prospect of further success until a gale 
should carry out the heavy drift, and young ice should again form. 
For some who were out at this time on the floe, Too-koo-li-too kept. 
a beacon-light burning on the hill -top. The men endured much 
exposure ; when it was dark, they lay down on the ice with the dogs 
and slept until they became cold, then aroused themselves and walked 
again till they got warm ; alternately sleeping and walking through 
the whole night. 



Chaptei^^ y. 



WINTER LIFE AND JOURNEY TO THE WAGER. 

JANUARY TO MAY, 1865. 



12& 



CHAPTER V. 



New Yeak's Day — Hall's speech — Feasting — Brilliant aukouas— He visits with the In- 

NUITS the whalers AT DEPOT ISL^\AT)— HOSPITALITIES AND AMUSEJIENTS ON BOARD — 
EeTUKN TO NOO-WOOK — SHOO-SHE-ARK-NOOK PERSUADES SOME OF THE INNUITS TO ABAN- 
DON Hall — Supposed earthquake — New orders of the An-ge-ko — Meteorological 

OBSERVATIONS — WaNT OF CONFIDENCE IN THE INSTRUMENTS — EXPERIMENTS AS TO THE 
FREEZING-POINT OF MERCURY — SEVERITY OF THE COLD — DIFFICULTY IN MAKING REC- 
ORDS — Hall's brass tablets — Supplies nearly exhausted — Ebierbing comes to the 
RESCUE — Flocks of eider-ducks in the Welcome — Native customs in sealing — 
Nu-ker-zhoo's and Ebierbing's ill-success — Supplies of provision, fuel, and light 
nearly gone — Plenty restored — The season moderating — Plan for survey of 
THE Welcome — Hall's broken health — The tides in the river — Eemoval to the 
Wager. 

The first day of the year 1866, Sunday, was one of gale and drift, 
confining all within their huts. To make the Tnnuits acquainted with 
some of the pleasant customs of civilization, and, by so doing, further 
gain their respect and good- will. Hall kept the second day of the month 
as " New Year's Day." The mean of six thermometers showed a tem- 
perature of 62° below freezing-point, and no cloud was seen on the 
sky. Yet Hall says, " We have all been as comfortable as though 
within houses of brick in New York." 

Too-koo-li-too having informed all the Innuits that calls Avere 
expected at the igloo from the crest of which the American flag would 

1-27 



128 



New Year's Bay. 



[January, lS(i5. 



be flying, visits were received at a very early liour, the visitors having 
but a short distance to come through the snow-covered passage-ways 
which connected almost all the igloos. Each one was greeted with 
"Happy New Year! Happy New Year!" A breakfast of frozen veni- 
son, well relished, was followed by another on tood-noo, to which young 
OoJc-har-loo, son of Erk-tu-a, treated all hands. Hall then set a table 
made of sea-chests resting on snow-pedestals. It was 25 feet in length, 




GKOUND I'LAN OF VILLAGE IGLOO. 



I, cutiaucc ; II, central igloo ; B, bed-platform ; F, lloor ; L, lamp. 

extending into the huts of Ou-e-la, Ar-mou, and Nu-ker-zhoo, and hav- 
ing for seats around it snow-blocks cushioned with deer-skins. Flags 
were draped, and lamps were lit all along the table, and at 2 p. m. 
twenty-one grown persons sat down to the feast. Manimark, a wife, 
for special reasons, and Ook-har-loo, because still an invalid, being ruled 
out l)y custom, ate by themselves. 



Jannary, 1865.] TllC FcttSt ttnct tllC Ketf-loW-tiJc. 129 

Vegetable and pemniican soup and sea-bread were furnished, with 
coffee and isinglass-jelly, and raisins were freely distributed for dessert. 
Too-koo-li-too waited on the guests. On their rising from the table, 
many of them placed their hands in front, close by where they had 
abundantly stowed away the good things, and cried out, "Good! very 
good ! " 

At the second table, eighteen children were gathered, while the 
men retired to Ou-e-lch hut to smoke. At 5 p. m., the men were 
treated to brandy punch, of Avhich a few sips also were offered to the 
women, as they had asked Too-koo-li-too to let them taste what their 
husbands had told them of as a heart-warming and happy-making 
drink. ErJc-tu-a said she had drink of the same kind many times on 
board Parry's ships, years before. 

The snow-domes were soon after made to ring with the songs of 
eleven of the women, mingled with the noise of repeated performances 
by the men on the liey-loiv-tik, and followed by the thunderings of a 
dance. Each woman had on her forehead a bright brass band, while 
down one side of her face hung the usual long pig- tail adornment; on 
her breast was a 10-inch square cloth, the ground-work of which was 
scarlet, and the fringe, scores of long strings of beads and glass buttons; 
the body of the breastplate being covered with the same. Ebierbing 
was called out, and responded with a song, which, according to In- 
nuit custom, was his own property — not transferable. He had pro- 
foundly attentive listeners, and Too-koo-li-too said she never had 
thought her husband could do so well. 

Hall then gave notice through Ebierbing that he had a speech to 
make, and Ebierbing made quite a speech in giving the notice. Dress- 
ing as a civilized man and taking a central position under a snow-arch, 
S. Ex. 27 9 



130 HalVs Speech. [January, 1865. 

Hall then "began with his best bow" by expressing his satisfaction at 
having lived with them four moons as a brother, without either having 
spoken one bad word to them, or having heard one from them to him- 
self. He tried to impress them with the greatness of his native coun- 
try, and the protection always shown to its citizens by its one great 
E-she-mut-ta (Chief), enforcing this idea by pointing to the flags 
around him. Giving them some idea of the Queen of England also, 
whom he called "the Great Mother that owned all the big water and 
the land on which they were, as well as the country of Ebierbing and 
Too-koo-li-too," he turned to these two, and told of their visit to Eng- 
land and to the palace of the Queen. After offering a good deal of 
wholesome advice to persuade his hearers to have more care as to their 
intercourse with white men, some of whom, he reminded them, had 
robbed them of their hunting lines, while others had taught them to 
be profane, and had introduced disease among them, he repeated in 
full his reasons for leaving home. "I have come," he said, "to your 
country to find out all about some white brothers who came to 
your land many years ago, but who never came back. Many of 
these brothers had wives and children. Their wives want the Innuits 
to tell me all about what they know of their husbands. Their children 
want you to tell me all about what you know of their fathers. 
* * * I shall want you to help me a good deal ; you have 
told me that you would go with me to Neitchille, and help me to find 
out all about the ship or two ships, as some of you have told me, that 
were two years, as you all say, in the ice near that place. I have pow- 
der, balls, shot, and ca})s enough for us all for three years. All these 
things I will share with you. So long as I am in your country, let us 
be as we have been for the four moons just passed — a band of brothers 



Jaouarr, 1865.] Au AuYOra. 131 

aud sisters. I thank you all very much. Good night." On his con- 
cluding a very long talk, of which the preceding is the substance, 
Too-koo-li-too told Hall that he had much pleased his hearers, who 
wished him to talk again He had throughout the speech made fre- 
quent pauses, so that his interpreters could make him perfectly under- 
stood. 

The three days which followed the feast had been again days of 
gale and drift. The meteorological notes of the fourth day of the 
month read: "This morning the mean of five thermometers is 70° 
below freezing-point. The registers of three others are rejected. One 
of them, the longest, indicates over 100° below freezing-point; No. 2 
registers 110°, and No. 7 will not register more than 77° below the 
freezing-point. A long and heavy cloud overhung the open water in 
the Welcome, its vapor looking like steam from a monstrous boiling 
cauldron." 

On the evening of the 7th, at 8.45, a band of children came run- 
ning into Hall's igloo, crying out ^^ Ok-sJium-mung ! Ok-shwm-mung !^^ — 
(Lights very fine.) He thus describes this aurora: When he registered 
the thermometer at 7 p. m., the sky was clear and cloudless, and there 
were no evidences of auroral action. At 8.45 there were three belts 
of aurora extending nearly in straight lines from near the horizon in 
the southeast up to the zenith, and thence within 40° of the horizon 
to the northwest. To the southwest there were belts of aurora, com- 
passing a large portion of the heavens from 15° to 40° above the hori- 
zon, these belts having contortions or folds like those in the Con- 
stellation, Draco. A fresh breeze was blowing from the north-north- 
west. Thermometer, 72° below freezing-point; barometer, 30.04. 



132 The Natives Wish to Visit tJie Ships Afjain [jauunr,-, jses. 

The rays of the aurora were vertical; it appeared all alive, as if in 
high glee, dancing to and fro with almost the rapidity of lightning. 
The three belts extending from southeast to northwest were the most 
interesting, as they often flashed into the brilliant colors of the rain- 
bow. Each belt occasionally resolved itself into two lines or tiers of 
rays; as one line would dance rapidly to windward, the other would 
dance as quickly in the opposite direction. This extraordinary display 
lasted five minutes — an unusual time. Hall was so impressed with it 
that he wrote, " If at home it could be witnessed for one moment, one 
would say, ' I never saw northern lights before.'" 

The natives were now looking forward to hunt again for walrus 
when the ice should form. After securing one animal they would 
renew their visit to the whale-ships. They pleaded for this visit their 
promise to assist the captains in getting fresh meat for the crews, and 
their having received from them many presents without making any 
in return. Hall's journal says : 

Innuits are a strange people to deal with ; a white man, to get along with 
them, must have the patience of Job. They are the children of nature, and like 
to do just as a notion leads them. I learned this evening that half the iieople of 
the Aillage, including several of the women, are making arrangements to accom- 
pany me down to Depot Island. I must try to check this, for if the Innuits can 
be induced to be here in the middle of February, I can make my desired journey 
next si)ring. If I had a small vessel at llepulse Bay, I could learn all the i^articu- 
lars of the Franklin Exi)edition in two years; with Innuits alone it may take five 
or more. If I have, however, a team of ten dogs, myself Ebierbing and Too- 
koo-li-too can reach Boothia Felix in the spring. I regret that I have not a few 
white men with m(^ 

But a second visit to the ship at Depot Island was arranged. 
The party Avas made up of Hall, six Innuit men, Too-koo-li-too, and 
six other females, a boy (Oot-jnk), and two babes; all of Avliom were 



jauiiary, 1S65.1 HttlVs Vis'tt to tJic Whttlcrs. 133 

seated on three sledges drawn by twenty-two dogs. The boy, Oot-pik, 
had awakened in Hall much interest by his brightness and his hand- 
some figure. When an infant, he was near perishing by being cast oflf 
by his parents, who thought that he was near death and would never 
be other than a burden to them, and his fate was just decided, on their 
taking fright when his hair began to fall off But Ar-goo-moo-too-lik 
and his wife, who had but one child of their own, by the consent of 
the boy's parents, promptly interposed to adopt him, and he very soon 
recovered his full health. Quick to learn, he was now fast becoming 
ready in speaking English. 

The sledge party were well supplied with venison, walrus-meat, 
and blubber, and reindeer-furs for traffic; besides their own provision 
and the articles necessary for use on their journey. The thermometer, 
when they bade good-bye to the twenty-six Innuits left behind, was 
72° below freezing-point. Running for a short distance directly south 
over the land, they struck out for the sea-ice soon found to be smooth, 
and then followed the coast, with the open water on their left hand at 
the distance of less than a mile. Large flocks of ducks were seen, 
and fast-streaming columns of vapor rose vertically into a heavy 
fog-bank extending north and south as far as the eye could reach. 
At 3 p. m., leaving the coast and striking the tracks of the party who 
had gone down in December, they halted for the night at the old 
igloo, which had been occupied by that company, about 17 nautical 
miles south-southwest from their winter quarters at Noo-wook. A 
load of venison and tood-noo was soon secured from one of the many de- 
posits which had been made in the last season. Two small storehouses 
were next quickly built near enough to the igloo for them to hear any 
attempt the dogs might make to break into these for the meat ; and 



134 TJie Igloo Made on the Journey. [junuar,, ises. 

while one of Ou-e-lds wives shoveled out the snow-drift from the main 
hut, the other increased the thickness of its walls by banking- up more 
snow on the outside. Hall's offered assistance to the women in this 
work of using the por-kin, (snow-shovel,) was refused by the husband. 
The drift being thrown out of the way, Ou-e-Ia then entered and made 
a bed-platform on each side of the igloo, dividing the two by a trench 
a foot in depth. 




GROUND-PLAN OF IGLOO. 

January 9, 186.5. Scale, i"-12". 



The women and children having then crowded in, made up the 
beds by spreading over the platforms their furred deer-skins, and lit 
the three fire-lamps to melt snow for the thirsty. The men on enter- 
ing carefully beat their jackets and kodlin, (outside breeches,) with their 
ar- row-tars, to prevent the warmth of the igloo during the night from 



January, 1863.] Tlw SlCCp tU tllC SflOW-IIut. 135 

melting the snow upon them ; for if it again froze upon them it would 
make the garments heavy as well as cold. This thorough beating re- 




AR-EOW-TAR, SNOW-BEATER. 

The wood of this from one of Franklin's ships. 



quired a full half hour. The temperature within the hut, under the 
influence of the lamps and of the crowd, quickly rose from 41°, but 
was again lowered by the venison in the trench, which, when first 
brought in, smoked as if on fire. To prevent the tongue and lips from 
being frozen at the first taste of the meat, it was held, for a few 
moments, in mittened hands and breathed upon, the children's share 
being kept awhile in their parents' mouths. Ou-e-Ia's half-breed in- 
fant, slipping entirely naked from its mother's hood, played on the 
bed, and on Ou-e-Ia's raising the child to his shoulders, it stood erect, 
balancing itself, swinging its arms and crowing at the feat. 

At 9 p. m., the whole party huddled together for the night, some 
being compelled to sit upright through the long hours of sleep. Sev- 
enteen breathers were sealed up, with a large snow-block, in a hut but 
1 feet in diameter ! On opposite sides of the trench, nine were on 
one platform and eight on the other ; every one (Innuit fashion) 
having the head toward the trench. 

In the morning, between the hours of 3 and 4, the men waked, 
ate a quantity of deer-meat, smoked, and again went to sleep. At 5, 
the whole party were amused to find that the lamp-smoke during the 
night had covered them with soot. Hall waked with a severe head- 
ache from the " excess of carbonic-acid gas generated by three fire- 
lights and seventeen persons." 



136 Hall Frequent! 1/ Frost-Bitten. [January, ises. 

Having re-shod their runners with ice, they now repeated their 
experiences of the preceding day and made a journey of 2G miles in a 
south-southwest direction, the children riding all the way, but the 
grown persons about half the time walking or running beside the 
sleds. 





SEAL-SKIX ISOOTS. BEAR-SKIN MITTEXS. 

Watching Hall, the natives on this day, and on the days follow- 
ing, thirty times restored his frost-bitten nose and cheeks by their 
vigorous rubbing. He accounts for this frosting by the fact that for 
the preceding month he had eaten but little, having lost all appetite 
for walrus-meat, and by his leaving his "phiz" unprotected, as he 
wished it to become hardened to cold. His cheek at one time re- 
mained frozen fifteen minutes. 

In the igloo occupied the second night, slabs of frozen koiv (walrus- 
hide) were hung on spears running crosswise near the top of the hut. 
They were thus partially thawed by morning, when the dogs were 
called in one at a time and fed on short strips of the meat. 

On the tliird day a furious gale was encountered, which increased 
])el<)w Cape Fullerton, compelling a halt at 2.15 p. m., at the end of a 
journey of 2G miles, during which it had been necessary to encase the 
children in reindeer-skins, and lash them on Ou-e-la's sled. 

The lirst stroke of the spear in testing at this })lace the snow and 



January, 1865.] A Seol-Agloo. 137 

ice for a new hut now struck the dome of a seal agho^ the inclosure 
in wliich the young seal is born and reared. It was oval, its diameters 
being 4^ and 5^ feet, and its height from the floor of sea-ice to its dome, 
2 feet. Those which Hall had before seen were circular. The open- 
ing for the seal to come up into this snow-dome made by her through 
the sea-ice, was near the end of the longer diameter. 

The party found their resting-place for this night warmer 
than that in their first igho^ which they said was because this 
hut was entirely new. They were, however, several miles from land, 
and in danger of being driven by the storm into the broad Hudson 
Bay. 

On the two following days the wind was fair, and the thermome- 
ter ranged from 36° to 34°. On the 12th, their fourth igloo was made 
on a small island 28 miles due west of their third. The land on their 
right was too low to be seen, but, according to the Eskimos, it was 
marked by deep inlets and bays, one of which extended to the north 
from 50 to 75 miles. On the left a ridge of hummocks intervened 
between them and the open water, a distance of from one to three 
miles. Hall expresses a desire to make an accurate survey of this 
whole coast-line, even from York Factory to Repulse Bay ; as, from 
what he had seen, he judged that no chart gave anything like an 
accurate delineation of it — certainly none showed the coast from 
Cape Fullerton to Depot Island. On account of the shore being 
very low and nearly uniform, a survey would have required much 
time and care. 

At a late hour of the next day, Ou-e-Ia, mounting a hummock, 
pointed out the masts of the whale-ships, which his quick eye discov- 
ered when Hall could not see them ; they a])peared only as sharp 



138 Arrival at Depot Island. [January, ises. 

needle-lines in the distance. The dogs were now urged to their 
utmost speed, but the storm-clouds shut in upon them before Hall 
could take a compass-bearing which might have saved some hours of 
wandering. Traveling then became exceedingly difficult, until, accord- 
ing to Eskimo usage in such cases, a woman was selected as the guide. 
One of Ou-e-Ms wives well executed this task, although for a time mis- 
led by a light on Ar-goo-moo-too-Ul^s sled which was seeking to regain 
its track. This light was from a piece of moss at the bottom of a dish 
containing a little oil ; at first she believed it to be on the ships. Re- 
gaining their course, the party soon saw a signal swinging high on the 
mast of the Monticello, its crew having heard the cries of the dog- 
drivers and dogs for half a mile back. 

Hall had closely shaved his hair and beard for this journey, 
yet devoutly wishing when he cut them that the ice could have been 
kept off, that they might have been saved to warm him. He was 
distinguishable from the rest of the snow-covered party by his voice 
only ; but was soon recognized by Captain Chapel, and welcomed to 
his old quarters on the ship. After partaking of the first hospitalities 
of the Monticello, and seeing that his party were properly cared for, 
he turned into his bunk, expecting a full season of rest. But the 
change from the igloo was too sudden ; he slept none during the night. 
After his next meal he could not help entering in his journal that he 
" liked civilization food" as well as any man, and it was only thi'ough 
his detennination to fathom the mystery relative to the lost expedition 
that he could possibly submit to live the life of the Eskimos as he had 
done and as he must still do. He congratulated himself that he had 
not forgotten how to use his plate, knife, and fork after 135 days' disuse 
of said articles. 



January, 1863.] Amusemeuts OH Boavd the Whalers. 139 

In this harbor, a little more than a mile west of Depot Island, four 
whalers besides the Monticello were anchored within rifle-shot of each 
other ; these were the George and Mar}- of New London ; the Black 
Eagle and the Antelope of New Bedford ; and the Concordia of Fair- 
haven, Mass. Each was banked up with snow six or eight feet thick 
and nearly up to the gunwale, the upper deck being well housed. On 
board the Monticello, although but little coal was used, the tempera- 
ture was kept above 32° throughout the vessel. Five other whalers, 
including the Ansell Gibbs and the Tender, Helen F., were anchored 
in a commodious harbor completely land-locked on the northwest side 
of Marble Island, an islet about 15 miles in length, lying 12 miles 
off" the coast. 

On board all of these vessels the amusements usually gotten up by 
Arctic voyagers for maintaining the cheerfulness and health of their crews 
were at this time in full play, and were generally of a theatrical charac- 
ter, varied by masked balls and by several forms of the dance. Among 
the exercises of speaking and singing, the memory of Franklin and the 
fate of his expedition were not forgotten. The new-comers were par- 
ticularly pleased with the farces, while Too-koo-li-too, in her turn, 
gave the ships' companies great satisfaction by her skill in a Green- 
land dance. 

Hall experienced a full share of the hospitalities frequently recip- 
rocated between the vessels at the two islands. The meat which his 
party had brought down with the design of dividing it among the five 
ships at Depot Island had been pounced upon by one crew. But the 
supply of fresh meats was plentiful on all the ships, and the condition 
of the musk-ox meat previously obtained, and of the hogs brought out 
from home, was a good indication of the care taken by the whalers 



140 Hospitality on Board. [January, ises. 

against scurvy, cases of which were very few and of the hghtest foiiii. 
His first disappointment was the news that botli the Antelope and 
the Black Eagle had been in Repulse Bay in August previous ; that 
the land was then covered with reindeer, and that these ships had 
looked for him, and would probably have remained there all the win- 
ter had they found him. These vessels had seen many whales, and 
each ship had secured ten; all which had been seen, were small. Hall's 
disappointment was followed by his entire failure to obtain now a 
promise from Ou-e-la of a dog-team for his spring sledge journey, or 
the loan of a team from the ships ; they would need all their dogs for 
the early spring floe-Avhaling. 

During his stay on the whalers, unwillingly protracted to the 
10th of the following month, he spent much time on the volumes of 
his Arctic library, left on the Monticello in August ; especially on 
those works which would best aid him on this voyage and on his 
proposed future voyage to the North Pole He did not fail to record 
some strange reading of the thermometers, together with interest- 
ing auroral and other atmospheric phenomena. On the 15th, the 
mercurial thermometer on the Monticello's mainmast read, at 7 a. m., 
— 44°; at noon, — 43°; at 7 p. m., — 45°; Avhile his own ethereal ther- 
mometer read, at the same hours, — 37°, — 36°, — 38°. He believed 
the last three records too high. He says : 

I am convinced of this by the test I lately made at my winter quarters by 
exposing, one night, a dish of pure mercury to the out-door air. My thermometers 
are numbered 0, T, 11, III, IV, V, VI, and VII. In the morning, when my No. 
thermometer stood at 40O.5, the mercury was frozen so hard that only the sharp 
nails of the finger (!0uld be made to penetrate it. Undoubtedly 5° or 0° Itiffher 
temperature would have left it in a frozen, unjiuid state. Some mercury will 
freeze at — 38° ; i)ure nuiy not at even — UP. 



February, 1863.] How to Determine Time at the Pole. 141 

lu Chapel's thermometer the mercury would not run down the tube while 
Inverted until a few degrees of warmth were communicated to it, but the ther- 
mometer continued to act. I am satisfied that a good mercurial instrument will 
indicate the true state of the atmosphere several degrees below the temperature 
of the mercury with which it is filled. 

In one of his leisure hours, revolving- in mind the problem of 
determining time at the North Pole, he came to the conclusion that 
with the help of an English nautical almanac, Greenw^ich time could be 
found there by star occultations or by the eclipses of Jupiter's satel- 
lites, but perhaps oftener by lunar distances. He had at first reasoned 
that at a place where there could be no such thing as a da}^, and no 
cardinal point but one ; wdiere all the heavenly bodies revolve paral- 
lel to the horizon, with the exception of the change caused by the 
variation of declination ; where there is no meridian, or rather where 
every meridian is : — it would seem impossible to determine time. 

* There is one great difficulty that will be experienced by whomsoever shall reach the Pole ; 
that is, there tvill he no means for dctermuiing time hy astronomical ohscrvations How can there be 
when all the heavenly bodies in view of the observer while at the Pole are continually revolving 
about him parallel with his horizon. The only exception to this is simi)ly the variation of decli- 
nation. At the North Pole there can bo no vppcr or loivcr culminations of the sun, moon, planets, 
and stars, for it is a point where there is no meridian; then it follows that there is no day there — 
no solar day, no siderial day, no lunar day. Why no day ? "Because a day is the interval time 
between the departure of a heavenly body from any meridian and its succeeding return to it ;" 
and there being no meridian at the North Pole, there can be no departure from or return to one by 
a heavenly body. At the North Polo there is no meridian ; it is a ijoint nevertheless where the 
meridians of every spot on the face of the globe meet, or, in other words, where they terminate 
to (zero or nothing). But a neiv idea had just struck me. Time can be determined at the North 
Pole by lunars. Having a Nautical Almanac and the usual instruments, it can be easily done. 
Take one observation of the sun's altitude, or of either of the planets or stars used in lunar obser- 
vations ; one altitude of the moon, without any particular care in noting the exact time when 
these two observations are made ; then carefully observe the angular distance of sun and moon, 
or moon and one of the planets or stars used in lunar observations, and note the time. 

[I did not mean by my references to determining time at the Polo that this will bo North 
Polar time or mean time. Certainly not, for this, as I understand the matter, would bo absurd. 
To say that such an event occurred at such an hour North Pole time or mean time would be out of 
all reason]. 

Having made the usual observations in taking a lunar, work these up. The true distance 
of the moon from sun, or planet, or star being found, proceed with the use of the lunar tal)les as 
in lunar work. The result will bo Greenwich time if the British or American Nautical Almanac 
bo the one used. I do not consider it necessary that one at the Pole should have a chronometer 



142 Hall Returns to Noo-ivooA: [February, isos. 

On the 10th of February he began his return journey to Noo- 
wooJc, leaving behind him, as he had unwillingly anticipated, the larger 
number of the natives. They had made themselves very useful in 
hunting for the crews the seal, the fox, and the bear, with the usual 
varied success and excitement of the chase. Ar-mou at one time going 
alone in pursuit of a large polar, harpooned him, but, in his determi- 
nation to secure the animal, he was himself fairly dragged over the 
thin ice to the sea and nearly drowned. Ou-e-la and Ar-mou, before 
going down in December, had agreed that they would early return. 
But now, with their wives and friends, they were not unwillingly 
detained by the captains. On bidding the whalers good-bye, Hall 
was furnished with some substantial and even delicacies ; for he was 
unable to conceal the fact that he considered some "civilization food" 
as almost a necessity. After the play of Damon and Pythias, given in 
his honor on the previous evening, he made a speech to 140 seamen 
gathered on one of the ships, complimenting the courage and hardi- 
hood of the American whalers who succeeded in finding harbors in a 

that had been adjusted to Green wicli or to any other time in making his lunar observations. 
Indeed, it may bo supposed that he knows nothing of time save the year. By the observed alti- 
tude and variation of declination of the sun or one of the planets, he can determine the month of 
the year, and by the lunar distance the day of the month, and by repeated workings of the lunar 
observations can determine Greenwich mean time as approximately as lunars will admit. 
Having Greenwich mean time by it, one easily gets Greenwich .apparent time. The party now at 
the Pole, we will say, is desirous to proceed toward Greenwich. He consults his watch, which is 
now at band and in running order. A good time-pieoe should, however, be in hand at the time 
the angular distance of the moon from the sun, or the moon from such other heavenly body as 
may be used in the lunar observations is o1)served, and the exact moment noted. No matter what 
hour this instrument is set to befoi'o commencing the observation, the result of the lunar obser- 
vations will show how much too fast or slow the chronometer is on Greenwich time; and thus 
one has iu hand the instrument to tell him at any moment, therefore, the Greenwich mean time. 

When the time-piece indicates the apparent time of Greenwich of Oh. Oui. Os., the sun (wo 
will suppose it to be summer in north latitude) is, on the meridian of Greenwich, exactly in the 
direction of Greenwich. 

The observer at this moment directs his compass-sight and takes a bearing. He proceeds, 
as he leaves the Pole, not only south (there is only one cardinal x)oint at the North Pole, which 
is south), but ou the meridian of Greenwich, 

Greenwich mean time may be determined by .an occultation of a stai or of a planet; also, 
by the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites. Jupiter, however, is alternately in sight and out of sight 
for six years at a time at the Poles of the earth. (Jouru.al on board the whaler at Depot Island.) 



February, 1865.] ArHval at Noo-wook. 143 

locality in the bay where a like success had not been met with by H. 
M. S. Griper in 1824* 

Beginning his journey at 8.30 in the morning, he was accompanied 
by /ShoO'She-arJc-nookj Ook-har-ho, Too-koo-li-too, and a girl named 
Now-yer. Their dogs numbered ten. After traveling 27 miles in an 
easterly direction, they again quartered for the night in an igloo on the 
sea-ice. The distance made on the second day was about the same 
as that on the first, but on the third they lost their way. Hall's com- 
passes proving totally unreliable. He was glad again to trust himself 
to the skillful guidance of the Innuits. Turning next to the north 
they were met by a furious gale from the northeast, with thick snow, 
shutting them up a second time on the ice of the Welcome, but the 
next morning all was calm and ''clear as a bell." 

They reached Noo-wook on the 14th. 

Hall had suffered on the journey by the strange conduct of Slioo- 
she-ark-nook, who had allowed each of the party but a few ounces from 
the abundance of walrus-meat packed on the sled, although he ate 
pounds of it himself and fed it to the dogs, and although Hall had 
freely shared with him all his own bread and coffee. To keep up his 
strength and warmth, for the supply of which to an Arctic traveler 
bread and coffee are not enough, he had submitted to eat the 
unpalatable and tough kow (hide of the walrus). 

In accordance with the expectations he had held out to the natives 
on New Year's Day, he now distributed to them the presents which he 
had obtained from the ships. The bread Avhicli Ar-mou had sent back 
to his family had unfortunately been stolen by the dogs on the jour- 

*Lyou's journal (p. 110) says: Marble Island, according to Middletou, is the only spot along 
tlie whole American coast from Churchill ujiward which aflbrds tolerably good anchorage. 
There is an excellent harbor in the island, but its entrance is dangerous. At spring tides there 
are only 13 feet on the bar. The Griper drew 16 feet. 



144 A Beported Earthquake. [February, ises. 

ney. The natives were living on short commons, because of their recent 
ill success in hunting. Ebierbing, on the day following, while on an 
unsuccessful walrus hunt, killed one of a large flock of eider-ducks 
(Mei-tuks), of the weight of which Hall satisfied himself by first bal- 
ancing it with the two books "The Fate of Franklin" and " Burritt's 
Geography of the Heavens" in a tin kettle, and then balancing these 
volumes with a bag of rifle-balls. He found the weight of the duck 
to be that of 312 rifle-balls, =: 6 pounds. The bird had in its gizzard 
snail-shells in perfect condition, which were preserved for examination 
as to their species. 

On the 17th, at 50 minutes past noon, a low rumbling noise was 
heard, resembling that of a train of cars slowly crossing a bridge and 
dying gradually away. The Innuits said that a like noise had been 
heard twice during Hall's absence, coming from the southeast, and 
continuing for a long time, and spoke of it as Toon-gwa, the bad Spirit, 
shaking the earth. During a new performance by the an-ge-ko, to 
which he summoned all hands at midnight, he issued the order that 
the kook-higs must not be emptied, nor the frost scraped from the ice- 
windows of the igloos till sunrise. This order, however, was accom- 
panied by another decree for an exchange of wives; and on his own 
wife's refusal to go to Ebierbing's hut for this purpose, the An-ge-ko, 
(Ar-too-a,) beat her most unmercifully. 

A few days after, fourteen of the Innuits moved a few miles 
southward, ostensibly to be nearer the seal and walrus grounds and 
their depositaries of reindeer-meat. About an equal number, includ- 
ing his two fast friends, remained with Hall. Shoo-slie-ark-nook, 
through some ill feeling, had endeavored to persuade every one to 
desert him. During this native's sickness and that of his son. Hall 
had closely watched both, and saved them when at death's door. For 



February, 1S05.1 A Seal Securcd hy Ingenuity. 145 

a few days, now, he was placed under serious apprehension that Shoo- 
she-arJc-nooJc would induce all to leave him with Ebierbing and Too- 
koo-li-too, to get along the best way they could alone. The fel- 
low was, not long" after, brought to terms when his own necessities 
returned upon him. 

Ebierbing, on the 19th, shot a seal weighing 125 pounds. It was 
too fat to sink, and its blubber made more than four gallons of oil. 
The meat was divided equally among all the families. Having no 
other means of securing a second seal which he had killed at too great 
a distance from the land-ice to be reached by his harpoon, he had 
endeavored to lodge in its body a line shot out from a rifle-grooved 
ball ; but, each time, his line broke. His companions, talking over the 
matter, returned to the spot with Hall, and found the water now cov- 
ered with a thin coat of ice. Lashing together a number of poles and 
flats, and making of them an oonar (seal-spear) a hundred feet in length, 
they fastened to its end a harpoon carrying a seal-line, and then 
pushed this long pole through a hole in the ice toward the seal. It re- 
quired skill to direct it, as the sea-ice is not transparent, but on the second 
attempt, after sunset, the seal was reached, and the harpoon withdrawn 
an arm's length and struck into the animal by a skillful blow. Snow 
was next kicked upon the body, and then thoroughly rubbed off with 
the feet, to prevent its hairy coat from being loaded with ice. A hole 
was cut in its nose and a line passed through it, by a loop of which, 
thrown over Hall's shoulders, he dragged it to his {gjoo, sharing it 
equally with all. 

On the 24th and 25th a severe gale prevailed from the north- 
northwest, the thermometer ranging from — 23° to —34°, and the snow 

di'ifting thickly. Over the Welcome, the fog-bank showed that the ice 
S. Ex. 27 10 



146 



Low hut Unreliable Thermometer Readings. [February, isfis. 



had been driven off shore. The mean of the five thermometers at 7 p. 
m., when the gale had entirely subsided, was — 39°; but Hall had now 
further reason to place no confidence in two out of seven instruments, 
one of which stood at — 100° and the other at — 75°. Shortly after 
this he wrote: "It is annoying to have but one of nine thermom- 
eters, right. But by taking even one to the United States, and having 
it compared with a standard, with my data, all the observations can be 
worked up to said standard." 

During the night of the 26tli his five self- registering thermometers 
read, —48°, —46°, -48°, —48°, —52°. At 8 a. m. he experi- 
mented with the mercury given to him by Mr. Green, one of the in- 
strument-makers of New York, for his artificial horizon. Pouring some 
of this into a dish near his thermometer, he found the mass quickly 
frozen, small spherical drops remaining fluid until the pressure of a 
pencil changed their form. When the mass of the mercury again 
became fluid, or nearly so, with the rising temperature, these globules 
remained solid. 

The following table gives the results of his observations ; the 
thermometers numbered I, II, and VII, at first being below the marks, 
were not read : 



Time- 
Fob. 26. 


Thermometers numbered — 


Merruvial test— state of ex- 
posed mercury. 


0. 


I. 


n. 


III. 


IV. 


V. 


VI. 


vn. 


h. m. 

8 

8 30 

& 50 
10 10 
10 25 
10 45 
11 


-38° 

-37°. 5 

-36° 

-35° 

-33°. 5 

-32° 

-30° 


n 

-90° 
-86° 


i £ 

1 1 
-83°. 5 
-80° 
-77° 
-73°. 5 
—72° 


-37°. 5 

-36° 

-34°. 5 

-33°. 7 

-32° 

-30° 

-29° 


-38°. 5 
-38°. 5 
-38° 
-36° 
-34°. 25 
-33° 
-31°. 75 


-38°. 5 
-38°. 5 
-37°. 5 
-35°. 5 
-34° 
-33° 
-31° 


-44° 
-44° 
-42° 
-40° 
-38° 
-36° 
-35° 


it » 

-41° 
-39° 
-37° 
-36° 


Hard frozen. 

Hard frozen. 

Hard frozen. 

Hard frozen. 

Yielding a little. 

Semi-fluid, half of it. 

Nearly fluid ; some still solid. 



February. J 863.] Tlic Freezing-Point of Mercury. 147 

These experiments still further confirmed his uncertainty as to the 
true freezing-point of mercury, and he was at a loss to know how to 
correct his thermometer-register. On the following day he continued 
his experiments with frozen mercury, the lowest temperature during 
the night having been — 39° ; and at 7 a m his thei-mometers standing 
thus: - 36°, - 90°, - 72°, - 34°, - 36°, - 36°, - 40°, — 42°. An 
attempt to mold mercury into a bullet did not meet with success. The 
temperature of the freezing mass now differed from what had appeared 
on the previous day, and he began to question whether its repeated 
freezing does not affect the case, or whether the discrepancies noted 
had not arisen from some lack of watchfulness needed to prevent the 
communicating of heat to the thermometers from his own person.* 
He says : " Why should I not be in doubt about the freezing-point of 
mercury when masses freeze and little rain-drops of the same metal 
from the same jar remain fluid ? Admitting that mercury freezes, by a 

* These notes of Hall's experiments may be compared with the follo^\•iIlg, to be found in the 
" Results derived from the Arctic Expedition, 187.5-76" (Parliamentary Paper C, 2176). Cajitain 
I^ares says, on p. 107 : 

"The spirit and mercury thermometers were fixed alongside one another in the same 
screen, and, being read off every hour during the winter, were found to agree very well together 
until the temperature fell to about — 44°, when, on the temperature reaching a certain point be- 
tween — 45° and — 46°. 5, the mercury fell suddenly to a point in the tube which would be about 
equal to — 60° had the tube been graduated. 

" While in this state, the mercury could be easily tapped down to a lower point in the scale. 
It appeared to be very brittle — that is, as the end of it reached the narrow passage leading to the 
bulb, small particles broke oiF and found their way through. The stream was not continuous. 

•'When the thermometer was left quite siill, no matter how cold the atmosphere was, the 
mercury never sank lower in the tube than about — 60°. 

" "\^^leu a thaw set in, the iirst effect was to melt the mercury remaining in the tube, which 
fell into the bulb out of sight, the mercury in the bulb always taking a longer time and a higher 
temperature before it became fluid. By the observations made, this temperature is about — 35°, 
but length of time may affect the actual degree at which the mercury would become fluid. 

'■■ Occasionally, when the mercury assumed the fluid state, the expansion was apparently a 
sudden action, as the mercury in the tube of the maximum thermometer, lymg in nearly a hori- 
zontal position, was projected along the tiibe, and registered a much higher temperature than 
that of the atmosphere ; thus, on February 22 the maximum thermometer registered a tempera- 
ture of -f 51°. 5, and on March 30, + 3=.0, both readings being higher than the actual temperature 
experienced." During the 24 hours preceding the first of these observations, the weather was 
stormy, and the thermometer may have been shaken. 



148 Extreme Difficulty in Writing. rFcbruury, ises. 

standard thermometer, at — 40°, then my thermometer No. does not 
register when at — 35° low enough by at least 5°, for at 10^' 10"^ a. ui. 
frozen mercury remained solid and fluid mercury froze." 

He now made his own records with great difficulty ; his inkstand 
occasionally was warmed beneath the fur clothing of one of the 
Innuits, the pen was constantly warmed by breathing on it, and the 
ink in his pen breathed upon as frequently. His fingers and thumb 
he warmed by a small lamp, which also heated two metal plates* 
alternately placed underneath the leaf on which he wrote. The ink 
was obtained from a deposit of icy ink-blocks outside of the igJoo ; 
slices from these were chipped off, crushed, and thawed inside. In 
detailing this, and speaking of his frequent exercise necessary to keep 
his blood in motion, he says, that " although apparently warmly 
dressed in skins from head to foot, (his) vigilance in dancing on the 
snow floor of the igloo to keep his blood in circulation was the })rice 
not only of liberty, but of life itself." 

The supply both of meat and blubber for oil had now become 
very low, suggesting grave apprehensions of want. The seal-meat 
was all gone and the walrus-meat nearly devoured. The blubber, so 
necessary for the lamp-light and for melting snow for their drink, was 
consumed. The only supplies left were in the reindeer deposits, 
which, in the severity of the cold, could scarcely be opened ; and tlieir 
tood-noo, without which the meat was poor food, was also gone. "Oil 

* His account of these metal plates is of interest : "I have before mo a lamp with two wicks 
kept constantly biirning. The brass sheets are 10 inches each by 5 ; and while one is heated the 
other, which has been made hot, is under the l<;af on which I write, warming it; this, in turn, 
keeps my lingers wann and the ink from freezing in the pen, and dries the writing. Changing the 
plates after writing on each half a dozen lines, I am able to make up my journals, the thermom- 
eter at my side showing 42° below the freezing-])oint. It is a i)lan of my own." 

[The plates, with the pen, inkstand, and other relics, were at the Arctic exhibit put up for 
the United States Naval Observatory at the Centennial, 187(5. ] 



march, 1865.J Starvation Driven Of. 149 

was what, they most needed, not only for their fire-lamps, but for 
the human stovesP Ebierbing, however, was now again successful 
in the capture of a full-grown seal weighing 250 pounds. Hall went 
down the coast a half mile, and attaching a dog-team to the seal, in 
fifteen minutes had it in his igloo, and shared it all around with his 
friends, including Shoo- she- ark -nooh. Nuk-er-zhoo brought in a load of 
venison from a distant deposit. Plenty came again. February, there- 
fore, closed with widely-extended moss-wicks on all their fire-lamps, 
once more aglow ; — with the stomachs, which had nearly collapsed, 
again filled to repletion. Sorrowful faces and silence then gave way 
to smiles and to merry voices. 

Within the first few days of March, Shoo-slie-ark-nooh and his 
family made their long-talked-of move to a new point north, half way 
to the Wager River, expecting to catch salmon through the ice and 
to gather supplies of reindeer from some of their own deposits. The 
conduct of this Innuit had, for some time past, given uneasiness, 
small tools and other articles which had disappeared from the passage- 
ways usually considered safe, having been found in his igloo ; besides 
which, serious apprehensions were renewed that he was again persuad- 
ing the rest of the natives to desert Hall. On parting, however, he 
promised to give his assistance on Hall's proposed journey to Repulse 
Bay ; and, not long after, he sent back to him a very acceptable 
present of frozen salmon, asking for tobacco, and receiving it cor- 
dially, together with blubber, medicine, and some food. 

Hall, with Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, now entered a new igloo, 
called the "seventh encampment," distant 120 fathoms further south. 
Tliis was to gratif}^ the superstitious notion that since so few of the 
people now remained in the village they must abandon all their old 



150 Intense Cold. [Mnrch, jses. 

huts, or failure in the seal and walrus hunt might ensue. The new 
igloo, made of coarse-grained blocks, with but little depth of snow for 
its floor, was particularly cold and uncomfortable, until embankments 
were thrown up outside and inside. Too-koo-li-too had lined it with 
the sail and jib of the Sylvia and with ripped-up canvas bags, et 
cetera — the et cetera being chiefly the petticoat which she had worn 
when in the United States. 

The 5th day of the month was again one of storm, the gale be- 
coming almost a hurricane. The storm-wind was cuttingl}^ keen. 
Hall wrote in his journal, " King Cold, even when severest, is harm- 
less in a calm; but when he gets the winds of old Boreas and charges 
them with his mighty power, man turns his face for shelter." Taking 
the mean of the readings of his "0" thermometer for the previous 
evening with the three of the day, and applying the correction of 
adding — 7°, which his experiments with the mercury had prompted 
him to do, he found the temperature in the gale to be h7° below freez- 
ing-point. The drift filled the air so that one could see nothing a few 
fathoms off, and yet the sun peered dimly through it the whole 
day, so that the terrific gale was hugging the earth. Probably a few 
hundred feet above, all was sunshine. At night the feeble rays of the 
moon pierced through the swiftly-moving white pall which enshrouded 
the land. 

When writing his journals now the greatest difficulty was, not to 
get the ink but his thoughts to flow. "When mechanical contrivances 
are to be attended to every few moments, and when King Cold is con- 
tinually thrusting his stinging needles into the toes and fingers, and 
finally chills one through and through, it is utterly impossible to think 
with freedom. While writing, one becomes lost in a labyrinth of stiff- 



March, 1S65.] Natwe Mode of Sealing. 151 

frozen ideas, from which he can escape only by the most violent 
physical exercise." 

On the 6th, after a protracted and severe struggle with a walrus 
found sleeping on the drifting ice, seven miles out, Ebierbing and Nu-ker- 
^hoo, after freely using their harpoons and lances, at last pierced his neck 
with a well-directed bullet. Night coming on, the two left their rifles 
on the ice and returned to their huts. The next day. Hall with three 
of his friends made their way over the rough sea-ice — a temper-trying 
field of chaos made up of piled blocks of every conceivable shape, 
size, and position, fractured and raised by the pressure of the floes 
upon such ice as had become fixed. They found the creature still fast 
to the line by which Ebierbing had tied him to a hummock ; but the 
current, at the last, swept this line under the land-ice, broke it, and 
took from them their prize. Four flocks of the eider-duck (Anas molUs- 
sima) were seen, which they estimated contained 1,000 each, the males 
predominating. Hall notes as .of interest to naturalists, their winter- 
ing in very large numbers in waters of such high latitude as the 
Welcome. 

The customs of the natives in sealing during the winter are detailed 
as follows : 

When the hunt is prosecuted over seal-holes, no seal is seen by the sealer 
until he has made fast to it. The locality of the hole is found by a seal-dog only, 
and the sealer then proceeds to prospect with the long spindle shank of his 
oo-nar, jjiercing the snow until it penetrates the exact spot of the hole which 
leads up through the sea-ice. Then, with one eye, a sight is taken through this 
spindle-shank hole, to determine whether it is about the center of the seal-hole, 
as this is the i)oint where the si)iudle-shank hole must be located. 

When the seal comes to this hole to blow, the listener prepares himself 
for striking his harpoon vertically through it ; and on the second or third puff 



J 52 Nu-ker-zliod a Seal- Watch. [March, isss. 

or blow of tlie animal, down goes a strong muscular arm, carrying a harpoon into 
its head, neck, or back. When the seal dives carrying out the length of the line 
attached to the harpoon, the sealer retaining firm hold of the other end, removes 
all the snow from over the hole, draws the seal into it, and drags him out. 

Two such seal hunts now followed. On the 8th, Nu-ker-zhoo took 
Hall with him three miles out from the shore to a seal-hole which he 
had discovered, and about which he had built a snow-wall 5 feet in 
diameter and 5 feet in height on the north side, but 1 8 inches only on 
the south. This was for his protection from the wind while watching. 

Into this hole, at the spot marked on his previous visit, Nu-ker- 
zhoo ran a whalebone rod, which, by striking ice, showed that some 
time had passed since the seal had been there ; drawing out the rod 
and smelling it, he whispered ^^tepid^^ (stink — &M/^seal). Returning the 
rod to the same little hole, he carefully scraped away the snow from 
around the rod, so as to leave only about 6 inches over the seal-hole. 
He then drew out the rod and placed the end of the wood-part of his 
oo-nar directly over the rod-hole. Holding this perpendicular with 
one hand, he used the other in packing snow around it till he had 
returned the 10 inches of snow over the seal-hole which he had 
scraped away. Then the spear-handle was lifted up gently, which 
left an inch-square hole ; this was to be his mark and guide for his 
harpoon in striking the seal as soon as he should hear it. He then 
ran the little rod down through the dome of the seal's house (or as it 
may be called agloo, for it is really a small snow-hut) to determine the 
depth of the snow over it ; for it was on this his feet were to rest 
while watching. 

The next thing was to prepare himself for spending the whole 
night in perfect silence. He threw down a piece of furred deer-skin 



march, 1865.] EMerMng's Night- Watch. 153 

to answer for a cushion and to keep t!:e least noise made b\ his 
moves from being communicated to the snow. ^ Then, to keep his feet 
warm and close together, he drew over them a short bag of reindeer- 
skin with the fur inside, and, to prevent still further his making the 
least noise while sitting, or when he should rise to strike, he tied his 
legs together just below the knees and his frock-tail close around his 
body. The last act was to place his oo-nar with harpoon and Hne, on 
two pegs carefully stuck into the snow, on his right hand and on the 
left, just so far in advance of him that when bending forward he could 
touch the spear. All was now ready for unbroken silence. Whisper- 
ing back and forward the word " Ter-hou-ee-iie,^^ (Good-night,) Hall took 
his leave ; for Nu-ker-zhoo had invited him to be his companion to this 
point only, since by his now leaving the agloo the seal would suppose 
that no one was left behind. 

The native, however, failed to secure a captive, and returned at 
the end of a twenty-four hours' watch only to say " no visit had been 
made by the seal to his hole during all that time." This had been his 
second disappointment, for on his last hunt, when he heard the blow 
and was throwing his harpoon, a mitten fell from his belt on the roof 
of the agloo, frightening off the wary seal. 

Hall next accompanied Ebierbing to a seal-hole which he had 
found about three miles off, and over which he now expected to watch 
during the night. With his knife, Ebierbing cut down into the snow- 
covering, repeatedly smelling the snow until he satisfied himself that 
the seal had been there within a short time. He then scraped away 
the outside snow which was about 5 inches thick, down to the thin, 
icy crust forming the coating to the seal's breathing-hole. Into this 
he made a very small cut, but on looking through, he discovered that 



154 



Ehierhing's Night- Watch. 



[March, 18(>5. 



it was about 4 inches on one side of the center. FiUing- this up care- 
fully with a small piece of snow, he made another cut, which he found 
to be centi-al. A small hair from his koo-U-tang (outer reindeer-frock) 
having- fallen very near the hole he had made, he at once stopped, 
and with the gi-eatest care removed it, remarking to Hall that the seal 

would " smell uni quick, and away 
it go." Then cutting a block of 
snow an inch square and 8 inches 
long, he set it up over the last hole, 
and filled in about it with loose 
snow, leaving 3 inches of it above 
the surface for a mark by which to 
direct his harpoon when the time 
came to strike. Seated on a single 
snow-block, with his back to the 
southwest wind, he tied his clothes 
about him, as already noted in 
Nu-ker- Zhao's case, and commenced 
his weary watch. He did not, 
however, build a wall around the 
hole, telling Hall that his own coun- 
trymen at Cumberland Gulf did not do this for fear of frightening the 
animal by the noise made in putting it up. Hall left him to his lonely 
watch, the temperature of the air being — 34°. Joe was as unfor- 
tunate as Nu-ker-zhoo in having no visit from the seal to his hole ; but 
he shot one in the open water, yet found it impossible to secure it. 

The Aneroid indicated, on the 10th, a fall of 4 J tenths of an inch. 
The wind again blew with almost the force of a hurricane, and one 




EBIERBING GOING OUT ON HIS HUNT. 



march, i8<i5.] Retiewed Apprehensions of Want. 155 

could scarcely see an object at arms-length through the drift. The 
Innuits made no attempts to leave their huts, and ITall, though suc- 
ceeding in getting his thermometers from the outside of his own, 
could read them only under its lee. It cost him three severe expos- 
ures to find them, but seizing one after another he worked himself 
back with them on his hands and knees. 

The unsuccessful hunts were trying to all. Even a fox escaped 
them, coming unharmed through a pack of the dogs which did no 
more than stare at it. "Had it been a polar bear or a musk-ox, they 
would have been all life, vigor, and teeth." In the absence of the men, 
Too-koo-li-too gave chase, but her spear failed to reach the prey. 

The want of blubber for light and heat gave great uneasiness, 
and provisions were again nearly exhausted, when, on the 14th, Nu-ker- 
zhoo^s sister, Tuk-too, brought in on a sled from an abandoned igloo 
a few old reindeer heads and legs, which had been cast aside out of 
the reach of the dogs for just such a time of want. These were soon 
made to give up every particle of their life-sustaining substance, 
whether of putrid brains, the now bitter marrow, the hard fibers, 
tougher sinews, or the few remaining patches of skin around the noses 
and hoofs. To crack the reindeer-bones by an iron tool during the 
walrus season was against Innuit law, yet Ebierbing- ingeniously 
escaped censure by holding the hatchet only, while Hall struck the 
bones across its face. 

The times were dark enough. The journal says . 

How cheerless is our igloo ! The moss wick of our lamp, which, when we 
have our full supply of blubber, gives a continuity of flame of 2 feet 6 inches, is 
narrowed down to a simple wick point, and makes the gloom more dismal than 
total darkness. Long and cast down faces are now faintly seen that otherwise 



156 Food and Fuel Renewed. [i^iarch, is65. 

would be veiled from us. Our liuts are sad, our voices almost hushed ! But 
away, away, thou fiend of Despair ! This is no home for you. We are the children 
of Hope, Prayer, and Work. God is our father, and better times will come. 

Hall had been busily writing letters to the Journal of Commerce, 
and the New York Herald, and to friends at home; but he had to drop 
the pen for the rifle, to get food. 

On the 16th he hopefully led out his company to the walrus- 
grounds, with dogs and sledge, across the rugged ice of the Welcome. 
Too-koo-li-too, as usual, had been up, the first of the party, giving 
notice there was little wind, and that, from the northeast; and Hall, 
feeling, he says he knew not why, that before night they would 
have success in the hunt, took out with him all hands, including Ar- 
too-a, who, through his own necessities, had returned to the village. 
They secured one great seal and a large walrus, and made a deposit of 
them until the following day. 

At 6.45 a. in. of the 17th, in the midst of a furious snow-storm, 
they started to retrace the path of this hunt over a seemingly end- 
less extent of hummocks, and by 3.30 p m. were back safe in Hall's 
igloo. Their sled was demolished, their shins badly scarred, and their 
temper "nearly about broken into cursing an icy world in general"; 
but, having now a good supply of food and fuel, Hall wrote ^^ Heaven 
he praised!^' He was able, chiefly through Ebierbing's industry and 
skill, not only to help some of those who had latel}^ left him and were 
now in want, but to send to Captain Chapel a large piece of the ook- 
gook, to be divided among the five captains. The temperature was 
beginning to be less severe, the thermometer rising at midday to 
10°. Some snow was taken off from the embankments outside of the 
igloos. Food, light, and warmth were again within. 



.iiarck, 1SG5.I TracMng the Bear. 157 

On the 20th, Nu-ker-zlioo left the village for a third visit to the 
whalers, bearing letters to Captains Chapel and Tyson, with others to 
be forwarded to Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Brevoort. Two days afterward, 
a couple of Nu-Tier-zliod' s dogs ran back to the village in full harness, 
their trace-lines appearing to have been cut, as is usual on sighting a 
ni-noo. At such a time the dogs are put in full chase, and when within 
a hundred fathoms or so of this game, the driver cuts the trace-line of 
the leader, and then in a few moments the trace of the next dog, and 
so on, until all are free from the sledge. The dogs, as their lines are 
cut, bound away for ni-noo, and soon bring him to bay, when the 
hunter prepares himself as best he can for his encounter with the 
ferocious beast. 

In company with Ebierbing, a few days afterward, Hall himself 
came upon the tracks of a mother bear and cub about half a mile from 
the coast, and followed them until they were lost in a belt of freshly- 
broken ice. He notes that the custom of the Innuits on first sighting 
the tracks of the bear, the musk-ox, or the reindeer, is to feel them, 
closely placing the fingers here and there on the raised, or, rather, less 
impressed parts of the snow. In this way the hunter determines how 
long they have been made, and if they are fresh, he goes in for a 
vigorous chase. Hall and Ebierbing on their chase could readily 
discriminate between the leisurely-made steps of the mother and her 
young, the halt which she made to nurse her cub, and her irregular 
shuffling gallop when, on scenting a seal, she must have changed her 
sluggish gait to the quick trot of a polar under full headway. 

During the rest of the month the temperature continued to mod- 
erate. On the 27th, with a reading of 32°. 5, fur-dresses became 
uncomfortable; the fall of snow did not exceed five inches, and the 
walrus and seal were found to be more plentiful in open water. While 



158 A Proposed Surrey imorcii, ises. 

watching- for them, Hall himself was at one time exposed to the most 
imminent danger of his life by the opening of the floes. He records 
in his notes his thanks for preservation and his purpose to exercise 
greater caution. 

For a number of reasons now forced upon him, he unwillingly came 
to the conclusion that his anticipations of disappointment in obtaining 
dogs and provisions for a spring journey toward King William's Land, 
would be more than confirmed. The season advancing while he was 
still so far from Repulse Bay, it would be as much as he could accom- 
plish while making his voyage there, to stand by his boat and stores, 
his personal protection of which had become clearly an absolute ne- 
cessity. The dispersion of the Innui(,s seemed to prove that perhaps 
little reliance could be placed on their help. He therefore began to 
lay his plans for an early move with his boat to the bay; yet, under 
the delays even for this, which were plainly before him, he contem- 
plated a useful work of which he thus speaks : 

I have been thinking that perhaps I can do no better than to siu-vey and 
chart the west coast line of the Welcome, commencing a few miles to the south- 
ward of this point, and thence up to Wager Bay ; and then do the same with the 
Bay. I regret I have not a light theodolite, a very essential instrument for such 
work as surveying in these parts, when the compass is of no use whatever. At 
present I see no other way than to do it all with sextant, determining latitudes of 
the more important points astronomically, and taking solar bearings from one 
point to another; tlie intermediate indentations of coast being examined and 
charted as best I can. Although this work and very nuich more around Hudson's 
Bay needs to be done, and done well, if at all, yet I have not the heart to do it, 
for it is old ground, an ancient discovery without survey. Give me the means 
and 1 will not only discover the North Pole, but survey all the land 1 might find 
between Kane's farthest and it, and have my whole soul in the work. 

His health at this time was far from being strong. He had suffered 

much from the very severe exposures to which he had been subjected, 

and particularly on the day when he had been in imminent danger of 



narch, 1865.] Beucwexl Plans. 159 

his life while out on the ice-floes walrusing with Joe. But his chief 
ailment was a sharp and severe pain in his left breast, arising from the 
strained and unnatural position which he was obliged to take when 
writing his journals. "Of all the work ever accomplished in the north- 
ern regions, nothing had done him the one hundredth part of the 
injury which journalizing did." 

So far as he found it possible under the circumstances to form any- 
matured plan for his advance, he sketched a rough outline including 
the points: — that on an'iving at Repulse Bay he must establish his 
headquarters and go in with his company of Innuits for reindeer- 
hunting to lay up a stock of provision for the following winter; that 
during the winter (1865—66) he would make a sledge journey to 
Boothia Felix and King William's Land, and be on hand for summer 
work in the latter of these; that he \vould spend the winter of 1 866-67 
with the Innuits of Boothia Felix, many of whom really winter near 
King William's Land : and having completed, as he hoped, all his 
work, by the summer of 1867 he would be ready for home. 

When writing of this to Chapel, of the Monticello, he said : 

Eemeinber that I purpose to go to tbat ])art of the world where one him- 
•Ired and thirty choicely picked men — the very flower of the P^nglish Navy — all 
perished, save three, in one short month or so by cold and starvation. I cannot 
accomplish what I have nndertaken except by the greatest caution. I and my 
comi>anious may never return, though I do not entertain the thought that such an 
event is probable. There is more to be feared that we may fall by the treachery 
of the evil disposed jjortion of the natives than by cold and starvation ; but as I 
shall make deposits of records at Eepulse Bay and at other places, and shall 
describe how they can be found, if we do perish, the world can still learn what I 
have accomplished. 

The necessity for his delay after he should reach Repulse Bay, 
arose from the fact that it would be entirely too late on his arriv^al 



160 Ou-e-Ia Returns from Depot Island. [Apru, isea. 

there for any sledge journey. It will be found that his anticipations 
of any treachery on the part of his companions were far from being 
realized. He was able to company with them safely through the long 
delays of five years. 

The movements of the different parties of Innuits toward the 
Wager were now dictated by their necessity for a change of residence 
to obtain the supplies which the opening season promised from the 
capture of salmon and the seal. These movements, as would be ex- 
pected, were fitful and the journeys generally slow. Hall's entire 
dependence on them is sufficiently obvious ; and it is satisfactory to 
find in his journals that any temporary break in the exercise of that 
mutual good feeling which was to him a necessity, was soon healed. 
His friends, the captains at the islands, had rendered him good assist- 
ance toward this, by exhorting Ou-e-la on his protracted visit to give 
on his return better counsels to his people. This he seems to have 
faithfully done. 

He surprised Hall on the 1st day of the month by coming in 
upon him in his igloo with his wife and a sled which he had heavily 
loaded up from a deposit twenty miles down the Welcome, "^^riie 
rough working of this sled over the ice had made him perspire very 
freely, but he at once called for repeated draughts of water, on 
Hall's remonstrating against which, Ebierbing said that quart after 
quart never hurt an Eskimo when perspiring. Ou-e-la brought with 
much news from Captain Chapel, the luxuries of some ship-bread and 
half a dozen mince-pies ; he also brought a large-sized neit-yuk, seal 
{Phoca hispida). Room in the igloos was readily -made for the new- 
comers, whose first meal with their friends was again ruled by Innuit 
custom. Ou-e-la had eaten venison in the morning ; he could not now 



April, 1865.', A Gale. 161 

eat seal ; his friends had eaten seal, and must be content with more 
of the same for supper. The next morning's comfort, liowever, was 
improved by a sociable breakfast by all hands on boiled salmon. 
Ebierbing brought in during the day two Arctic 9-pound hares, 
which Hall weighed by balancing them with bullets the weight of 
which he knew to be fifty-two to the pound. A mutual instruction 
class seems to have been then unintentionally formed among the 
party housed by the gale. Ou-e-la spent much time in confirming 
what had been previously more than once asserted by his people, that 
trees were certainly to be seen growing on Shar-too (Prince of Wales 
Island), and that between Wager River and Boothia a species of soap- 
stone used in making the native lamps and kettles (the Lapis ollaris) 
is to be found in abundance. Hall, on his side, gained their attention 
while correcting their crude ideas of the motions of the sun, moon, 
and stars ; like all other Innuits, they believed that these moved 
daily around the earth. 

On the 4th, the lowest reading of the thermometer was 57° 
below freezing-point. A southeast gale, which prevailed from the 
5th to the 8th, is noted in connection with expressions of sympath}' 
for Franklin's men in the terrible sufferings which they must have 
endured if in their weak state overtaken by such a storm on their 
fated way to Montreal Island. The thermometer during this gale 
showed a mean temperature of — 18° and a minimum of — 30°. For 
ten hours, however, two of the natives remained out unflinchingl}^ to 
bring in reindeer-carcasses at nightfall. 

Hall's igloo was the headquarters for fresh meat. They were all 
still living on an ook-gook which Ebierbing shot on the 16th of the 
month previous ; and it is again to be noted that he was the chief 
S. Ex. 27 11 



162 The Tides. iaphi, iscs. 

hunter for the village. He was the only Innuit who had as yet shot 
a seal in the open water But Hall knew that he had been accus- 
tomed to this for years, and felt satisfied that if Joe kept his health, 
there need be no fear but that he would secure enough provision to 
keep eight or ten hearty men in good working condition. 

The full opportunities which now offered themselves for observ- 
ing the tides in the Welcome, led to the conclusion that their true direc- 
tion differs from that spoken of by N. West Fox, who explored the strait 
in 1631, and by other earlier as well as later explorers. The flood- 
tide was found to set in from the south, while the ebb comes from the 
north. The Eskimos say that below the Wager, oo-Iee-po-ke (flood- 
tide) comes from the south, and tin-ne-po-ke (ebb-tide) comes from the 
north ; while above the river the reverse is found. 

The tides in Hudson's Bay, Hall remembered, were admitted to 
be inconsistent with general rules. He had read that — 

When it was discovered that at Eesoliitiou Island, lying at its entrance, the 
tide was full 30 feet at full and change of moon ; less and less as advance is 
made westward ; only G feet at Gary Swan's Nest, on the south of Southampton 
Island ; but thcuce to the west side of Hudson Strait higher and higher, and 
the further an advance is made north, still increasing : — it was concluded that 
there must be some strait or passage connecting the west side of the bay to a 
western ocean or the South Sea. 

The move toward the Wager and thence to Repulse Bay was now 
begun. On the 10th, Ou-e-la and his family, with some of Hall's stores, 
started Avith a large team toward the Wager River, folloAved by every 
remaining one of the company except Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, 
who still domiciled with Hall. His igloo, which up to this time had 
been so often crowded by men, women, and children, and dogs, was 
now left free, giving him the enjoyment of some repose for writing. 



April, 1865.1 Hall Moves totvard the Wager. 163 

Ar-mou's sled had on it his whale-boat presented by the captains of 
the ships, which was 28 feet in length, with 6 feet beam, and 2^ feet 
depth. Besides this boat, with its oars and rigging, the sled held 
household utensils and provision; yet the team was made up of but 
six dogs. Nu-Jcer-zJioo had but two dogs and a puppy for a load usu- 
ally requiring a team of eight ; but the journey before them prom- 
ised to be over comparatively smooth and hard snow. Very soon 
Ar-mou stopped his team and gave each of his dogs a most unmerci- 
ful thrashing "just to warm them up and prepare them for their hard 
work." 

Four days after they left him, and while Hall and Ebierbing were 
in their igloo finishing their own packing, they heard the cry of dogs, 
and soon after, the sound of their pattering feet and the music of the 
sleds gliding over the crisp snow. Unharnessed dogs then came bound- 
ing into the igloo, seizing whatever had the appearance of meat or skin ; 
hunger had made them fiends, and blows from a club or hatchet that 
would have killed an ordinary dog were necessary to save what 
remained of the provender. Their masters, Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a, next 
appeared, and it was evident that Ou-e-la had brought his companions 
to a better mind toward Hall, for they joined cordially in loading up 
the stores and assisting him to start. 

In the afternoon, after journeying over compact snow 14^ miles 
in a direction north-northwest from the last encampment, Hall came 
to the new settlement already made by the advanced parties on a lake- 
let, and was warmly received. By meridian observation of the sun, 
the latitude of this "eighth encampment" was found to be ()4° 55' 
1 9" N. On the lake were seen a number of snow- walls, measuring 
each nearly two-thirds of a circle of from four to five feet in diameter 



164 Arrival at the River. iaphi, ises. 

and the same in height. The concave sides of these facing- south 
were sheltering the women and children while fishing for salmon 
through the openings which the men had cut. - 

Ar-too-a^s wife, being seized with a fit, was surrounded by her 
friends who were about giving her up, when Hall succeeded in restor- 
ing her by the use of medicine, completing the cure on her second 
attack. Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too suffered from severe colds 
which they took during the warm days, on one of which the tempera- 
ture was as high as 33°. 5. The freedom from colds among the natives 
was generally so marked that they attributed what discomfort they 
had to their having caught colds from the white men on their visit to 
the ships. On the 24th, Hall's party moved to his ninth igloo, and on 
the next day the boats were sent forward to gain a position near 
Wager River. The half-starved dogs were so ferocious as to be almost 
unmanageable, but their loads were borne forward by the help of a 
sail, rigged lug-fashion and spread to the southerly winds. They 
moved rapidly along. On the journey, Too-koo-li-too caught ''a whale 
of a salmon" weighing more than 15 pounds. It was 37 i inches long 
and 20 inches in circumference, a ^'■JonaW^ 13 inches long being found 
within it. 

Traveling again over the hard snow which covered the long 
narrow lakelets and the small space of land between them, the party 
made excellent time through this liighway between the rocks, which 
had been long known and frequented by the natives. Five heavily- 
loaded sleds })ushed forward, men, women, and children being har- 
nessed to each to assist the dogs, and on the 29th the party went into 
huts on the ice of the Wager, lat. 05° 1!)' N , long. 88° 40' W. The 
severely cold, cloudy, and hazy weather had produced snow-blind- 
ness, with which even Ebierbing had become afiected. 



p 



HAPTER 



y 



FROM THE WAGER TO FORT HOPE. 



MAY TO SEPTEMBER, 1865. 



CHAPTER VI 



The TiiiUTEENxn encampment made upon the Wageu River— a successful sealing season — 
Hall's own prize — Eejoicings at the first success of a young Innuit — Customs at 

THE birth of an INFANT — MOVING FROM KONG-MONGS INTO TU-PIKS — APPEARANCE OF THE 
DESERTED VILLAGE — AURORA — JoURNEY TO REPULSE BaY — REFRACTION — ENCAMPMENT 
ON OOG-LA-RIO-YOUR ISLAND — OU-E-LA'S DEXTERITY IN HUNTING — GaME SECURED — TlIE 
MAKING OF OOK-GOOK LINES — CLEARING OUT OF THE ICE — APPEARANCE OF THE WlIALER.S 

IN THE Welcome — Refraction — Storm — Treatment of the dogs — The tides — Death 
OF Shoo-she-ark-nook — Mourning customs — Renewed appearance of whalers in 
Repulse Bay — Capture of a whale by the crews of Hall's boats — EncampmexNT 
NEAR Fort Hope of Dr. Rae — Hall's notes of the rocks, stones, and sand found on 
the ice compared with Parry's observations. 

At the end of nine weary montlis Hall had now but reached the 
place on which he had expected to make his first landing. His 
encampment was next made on the ice out in the Wager. Its astro- 
nomical position when recorded, was followed by a note of the accu- 
rate judgment shown at the time by Ou-e-la and Ar-too-a "in keeping 
in their mind's eye so approximately the direction of distant points." 
When separately directing the compass at Hall's request toward Noo- 
wooJc, sixty-two miles distant, they pointed it in lines differing but one 
degree; and on Hall's applying the correction for declination, he found 
the bearing nearly agreeing with his own result. 

On the 3d of the month the party witnessed a fine auroral dis- 
play in the western sky; the color was nearly a medium between 

167 



168 Hairs First Capture. [inay, isos. 

silver and cream; the rays active and changeable; the sun was about 
one degree above the Wager's ice horizon, making the fleecy clouds 
brightly aglow. The hour was 8.20 p. m. The temperature for a 
number of days remained low, the readings being 37° and even 42° 
below freezing-point. 

Sealing, however, soon began to prove successful. Nu-ker-zJioo, 
with one stroke, harpooned a mother that had on her back a pup 3 feet 
3 inches in length, and on Avhich the hair was beginning to take the 
place of its white woolly coat. Shortly after this, five other seals were 
taken. Under the guidance of the Innuits, and with the help of his 
own capital seal-dog Ou-e-Ia, on the 5th, Hall made his OAvn first but 
valued prize, a neit-yiik, weighing 200 pounds. Finding himself 
among the busy sealers on the ice, he soon heard Nu-ker-^hoo calling 
him to the seal-hole at which he was; and seating himself on a snow- 
block over the unseen hole, and there listening intently and scarcely 
moving a limb for one full hour, at last he heard a softly-breathing 
noise beneath the snow. Raising himself then cautiously to his feet, 
which rested on the furred took-too skin, and with his light hand pois- 
ing his oo-nar over the spot that Nu-ker-zlioo had imprinted in the snow 
over the seal-hole, with his full force he drove the spear vertically 
down, and instantly found that the blow was a telling one. The coil 
of the seal-line held in his left hand, began at once to run out; in fact, 
the Avliole of it was at first jerked out of his hand. But "quick as a 
flash," he says : 

I seized it again, or 1 would \vd\c, lost my prize, as well as the liaipoon aud 
line. The sealers far and netu' saw that I was fast to a seal, and although I 
ealled \o Nxi-lcer-zhoo^'-'-ldetc ! Idete!^'' — eonie here! come here! — there was no neees- 
sity for it, for befoni I uttered a word he and all the others were making their way 
to ine. Had 1 eaught a whale, there could not have been more siu-prised and 



Wlaj, 1865.1 



Congratulations. 



169 



happy souls than were these Imuiits on liiHliii<>- I was really fost to a seal. 

Laughter, hilarity, joyous riugiug voices abounded. Almost the last Inmut who 

arrived to congratulate me was my good friend Ou-e-Ia, accomi)anied by his dog, 

dragging a seal which he had just 

captured. Last of all came the young 

ladies, Tuk-too and Xotc-yer, with dogs 

and sledge, and a seal which Ar-tnoti 

had taken a liftle while before. All 

this time nobody had seen my seal, 

for it was ilijiping away down in salt 

water beneath the snow and ice of 

Wager Eiver, still fast to one end of 

my line while I held on to the other. 

^^ti-ler-zhoo, with his pelong (long 

knife), then cut away the snow, two 

feet in depth covering the seal-hole, 

and removing still more with mj 

spear, he chiseled away the ice-lining 

just above the hole. Soon the seal 

came up to breathe, and then the 

death-blow was given to it hj a thrust ixxuix uAi;poox-nF.ADs. 

of the spindle of the si^ear directly into the thin skull. The prize was drawn 

forth — a laiger seal than either Oxi-e-lcCs or Ar-mon's. Again the air resounded 

with shouts and joyous laughter. 

It was the first case among them of a white man's success in har- 
pooning. 

The party of fourteen immediately cut out the hver and a httle 
of the bhibber of each seal for their lunch, and carefully sewed up the 
slits, that none of the blood, so valued for soup, should be lost. They 
then buried the animals in the snow, to prevent their skins from blis- 
tering in the sun's rays, and still further prosecuted the hunt, dragging 
to their hom-mongs in the evening seven seals, the average weight of 
which was 200 pounds each. From that date, the living was on seal- 
meat exclusively for a number of days. It was a fair exchange for 




170 The Kipe-Jcut-ta [May, ises. 

the Tioo-mucks (worms picked from the reindeer-carcasses), the soup 
from which the Innuits had been enjoying. They eat these even 
when their wings begin to form. 

For Hall's fatm'e success in sealing, Ow-e-Zamade him a kipe-kut-ta, 
a little rod of whalebone, about the size of a common knitting-needle, 
about 30 inches long, and pointed with a small sewing-needle, the other 
end having a thin string, 2 feet in length, to which is attached a peg. 
This was for a seal-signal, particularly to be used in windy weather 
when it is difficult to hear the breathing of the seal, or when the snow- 
covering of its hole is very deep. When the animal approaches its 
hole to blow or breathe, it will strike its head or neck against the 
needle-point and lift the slender and light kipe-kut-ta, slackening the 
string; this is the signal for the huntsman to deal his blow. This nee- 
dle is used only when really necessary ; for if the seal strike its nose 
or any tender part of its face against the point, it may become 
alarmed; or if the instrument should happen to chafe against the snow 
so as to produce a noise, the wary animal will at once become sus- 
picious and retreat. Sometimes the sealer has an advantage in its use 
when the seal, almost exhausted, is forced to gain access to the air 
even at the expense of its fears. Hall afterward used his signal-rod 
twice, but without any good fortune. 

Before the middle of the month success in the hunt had so in- 
creased that ten seals were caught on a single day. At this time, as fast 
as brought in, tliey were devoured, save the ook-sook (blubber). '* It is 
astonishing, even to me, to see the vast amount of meat that a company 
of Innuits can consume. They can live on little if little is all they 
have ; they do live on a great deal if abundance is obtained." 

Ilall relished venison even when much tainted, though bread and 



May, 1S63.] The Ftrst Seal CaugJd hy a Young Innuit. 171 

coffee were welcome adjuncts. He thought young seal-flippers, hair 
and all except the finger-nails, tender and nice as a spring-chicken ; 
but of his experience, generally, of the effects of old seal and walrus 
meat, he says that for days after eating it, his tongue tasted badly, as 
though it were much furred, and that seal-meat alone or seal-meat with 
blubber is terrible on a white man — excessively constipating. On 
the Inuuits the effect is less serious. Cooked seal-blood when eaten 
becomes equivalent to the ^^tappen" of the she polar bear, which it 
produces by eating moss preceding hibernation ; indeed, it amounts 
almost to an immovable mechanical obstruction to what nature de- 
signed should have free way. Walrus-meat affects the system about 
the same way. Too-koo-li-too believed that the reason the lunuits 
are so dark-colored is because of their eating so much raw seal-meat 
and blood ; and that the Kinna-patoos, whose country is in the vicinity 
of Chesterfield Inlet, must be a lighter-skinned people, as they never 
eat raw seal-meat. Hall remarks, in connection with this, that Innuit 
babies when quite young are nearly white. 

The first exploit in seal-catching by a young native is thus 
detailed : 

The mother of the boy Ivee-chuck came to the entrance of our kom-mong, her 
whole frame shaking with joy, whUe she told the news she had just heard, that 
her son had harpooned and killed a seal in its hole. Then she went from lorn- 
monff to lom-mong, notifying the women that her son was on his way back with the 
prize, and started off with all speed to meet him. I watched every movement 
closely. As she met him, the dogs were stopped and the joyous mother embraced 
her darling successful boy, then stooped and patted the seal as though it were a 
living pet. She next disengaged the dogs' harness from the draught-line, and 
started toward her Icom-mong^ dragging the seal after her, when the women, with 
their oodloos, hastened to meet her. It was a woman's race. Old Oolc-har-loo 
hobbled along as fast as she could, but was left far behind, and, therefore, she 



172 Innuit Customs. [May, ises. 

kept crying out in lier native vernacular for lier competitors not to go too fast. 
Though this old petulant creature's commands are usually obeyed, they were not 
regarded this time, for the race proved a hot one, though the surroundings were 
nothing but heavy ice, hard snow, and very cold air. As fast as the women came 
up to the seal which the mother was dragging, they fell upon it and slashed away 
right and left with their ood-loos, till the poor defunct was completely haggled into 
as many pieces as there were hagglers.* Old Ool-har-loo, having arrived late, 
only got a small poi'tion of the seal — the liver, heart, and lights. Too-koo-li-too in 
the contest succeeded in getting a hind quarter, consisting of meat, blubber, skin, 
and flipper. Some women got more and others less, though they left what their 
customs required — the head, neck, fore flippers, and some of theblubber and meat, — 
for embellishing the igloo where the youthful victor resides. What remained was 
dragged to the igloo by the joyous mother, and thus ended the public celebration. 

The first seal caught in open water and the first one taken by 
watching over an ice-hole are occasions for hke demonstrations of joy, 
in which all usually share, except those who have been afflicted by 
death in their families during the year. 

The tracks of the reindeer were now frequently seen. Ebierbing 
failed in securing some bucks through his snow-blindness ; in a few 
days, however, he was well, and, witli his usual skill, caught two seals, 
of which he gave pieces to the different families and piled up the rest 
on the floor of Hall's kom-mong, making it look like a slaughter-house. 

On the 12th, cue of Ar-moiCs wives, who had given birth to a 
child on the 5th, was now permitted by the Innuit customs to come 
again from her separate igloo into the family hut ; not, however, by 
the common passage-way, but, at the decision of Old IMother Ook-bar- 

* Hall does not }>ivi: the, dimensions of the seals captured. It may be of interest to note the 
measurements given hy Captain Lyon in his narrative of a voyage to the same region. The num- 
ber of seals daily seen by his ofhcers was large, and their boldness made them an easy prey. Four 
were killed one evening, two of which (the I'lioca Jlarhalu, or bearded seal,) weighed from eight to 
nine hundredweight. The length of one from nose to insertion of the tail was 8 feet ; the length 
of the fore Hipper, 10 inches ; of hind tlipi)er, 1 foot 3^ inches ; the circumference of tho belly was 
7 feet; tho circumference of the head behind the ears, 2 feet 5 inches ; tho circumference of the 
uose, 1 foot 4 inches. 



Way, 1865.] A Sledge Trip. 173 

loo, by an opening- cut for the purpose through the snow-wall. She 
was now to keep a little skin-bag hung up near her into which she 
must put a little of her food at each meal, having first put it up to her 
mouth. This is called laying up food for the infant, although none is 
given to it. For a year from the birth, the mother must eat neither 
anything raw nor that which has been wounded in the heart. Hall 
notes that a birth occurring on a journey occasions no delay ; the In- 
nuits of this locality differing as to this in a marked degree from those 
further east. The mother is almost as well as ever an hour after the 
birth. The new-comer nestles at its birth in its took-too bed (its 
mother's hood), as naked as when born, and it usually remains without 
clothing for at least two years. 

It now became very desirable to go down the coast 32 miles 
southward and bring up the four whale-boats which belonged to Hall 
and three of the natives, and the stores of the expedition with the 
medicine-chest and other deposits, in order that an advance might 
soon be made toward Repulse Ray. A well-known disease, which 
threatened to sweep off very many of their dogs, having already de- 
stroyed several, this journey became the more urgent. Accompanied 
by Ebierbing and five others, with three sledges and twenty dogs, on 
the 15th, Hall crossed the Wager, and, after tracking a bear, ascended 
the high land to examine the condition of the bay. Two miles down, 
a heavy black cloud hanging over it extended from shore to shore, 
showing much ice drifting out with the swift ebb-tide. 

The journey occupied the traveling hours from seven in the morn- 
ing of the 13th to 10 a. m. of the following day, some time having 
been given, however, to the hunt of took-too. It had become so light 
at midnight that no stars were visible. Hall feasted in the igloo on 



174 The Kom-mongs Falling in. (May, ises. 

the head and brains of a deer ; his companions deHghted themselves 
with the worms found under the skin. A severe gale surprising the 
party after they had lashed their boats on the sleds to return, they 
halted, and Hall cooked a large quantity of deer-meat and treated the 
company to so much hot punch that they began to utter confused sen- 
tences, and retired at 8 p. m. 

On the 16th, Ou-e-la with much tact pushed forward the heavily- 
loaded sleds, and, although he lost several dogs, at last brought up the 
boats on the ice of the Wager, launched them for a sail of two hours 
on its open water, and then again sledded them over to their latest 
encampment, reaching it at midnight of the 18th. On their route 
they had visited Ar-lig-ouk-lig, a place which has the appearance, on 
approaching it from the north or west, of an inverted whale-boat. A 
^HableV^ was found here, 50 feet in height and 25 feet in width. The 
place is considered sacred by the Innuits, who made at this time a 
deposit there, with an address and a solemn farewell. In a crevice 5^ 
feet from the ice a lead ball was now placed, marked " Hall, 1865." 
On the crest of a hill, some dista^nce further on, were found six circles 
of stones which Ou-e-la said were the remains of the tu-pi1xs of Innuits 
long since dead ; and that here they made their stopping-place when 
passing from Noo-wook to Oo-koo-ish-ee-lik. 

The rapid advance of the warm season again required a change 
of residence. The kom-mongs^ or half-snow houses, Avere untenantable 
by the snow-drippings. When broken down, their remains, mixed up 
with masses of blubber, broken and uncouth native utensils, and fihh, 
presented a strong contrast to the beautiful arched and solid domes as 
described by Hall in the previous autumn.* 

•Captain Lyon, in his jonrnal kept during Parry's second voyage, 1821-23, says of a like 
sccn<i : " I had several Uine.s in my rambles throiigli the world seen huts which I imagined coTild 



June, 1865.] The Warm Season Approaching. 175 

Nu-ker-^hoOj on leaving his igloo, took out, according to custom, 
all his skulls and bones to the ice some distance off. Ebierbing was 
snow-blind. He had come in from his deer-hunt- looking like a pillar 
of snow and his dogs like small snow-drifts. He had found Ar-mou's 
wife wandering about in the snow, for she had lost the way to her own 
tu-piJc, and could not as get enter any other. Despite of his woolen 
mittens, Hall's own fingers now tingled more with cold than they had 
done during the Avhole winter, and the change brought to him a sick- 
ness ; but, like a number of attacks experienced since his first landing, 
this was but temporary. He was again cheered by letters from Cap- 
tain Chapel, brought by two natives who had left the ships on the 10th 
of April. 

The first five davs in June were in marked contrast with tlie 
end of May. The glowing sunsets, which mirrored themselves in the 
water of the Wager, closed upon hours favorable for observations and 
for hunting. Hall's boat, the Sylvia, with its stores, was brought 
across from the south side of the river. By ascertaining with his sex- 
tant that the ice-foot on the other side, 20 feet in height, subtended an 
angle of 5', he determined the breadth of the Wager to be two and a 
half miles. 

The tu-piks had been again set up on an island called Noo-oot-lik, 
which forms one of the chain lying close along shore of the river. On 
this many circles and stone monuments were found. On the 5th, tak- 

not be equaled in wretcliedness of appearance ; but I was yet to leam that of all miserable 
places on earth a snow village recently deserted is the most gloomy. The huts, when viewed 
from without, glisten beneath the rays of a spring sun with a brilliancy which dazzles and pains 
the eye ; but the contrast within is therefore the more striking. The roofs melted into icicles 
and coated with smoke ; arches broken and falling from decay ; the snow-seats, floors, and parti- 
tions covered with every kind of filth aud rubbish — bones, broken utensils, and scraps of skins — 
form altogether the most deplorable picture, while the general air of misery is tenfold aug- 
mented by the strong glare of light which shoots through the hole once occupied by a window." 



176 Nearing the Bay. [jane, ises. 

ing down the tents, transferring- everything to the boats, and rigidly 
guarding the provisions from the voracious dogs, the company moved 
forward under sail, })assing through a narrow channel of one and a 
half miles in width, and for some hours resting on a bight, found to be 
entirely free from ice. The opposite southern shore was hugged by an 
ice-stream sweeping up and down with the tide. The next resting- 
place was on an old ice-floe about one mile from land, full of fissures 
and large bergy pieces, on attempting to round Avhich both Hall's and 
Ar-moiCs boats struck hard, but without serious injury. Hall's own 
boat, the Sylvia, had been twice nearly destroyed — once by his pilot 
and wife having both Mien asleep while he himself was napping. 
Ar-moii's equipment was enlivened by the birth of a litter of puppies. 
While crossing a break in the floe they saw a remarkable stone, called 
by the Innuits Ye-ar-yu-liJc, 30 feet in^ perpendicular height, and stand- 
ino- alone about a mile from the coast. Ou-e-la said it could not be 
ascended. 

On the 8th, a gale, with drifting snow, forced them to seek the 
shelter of a floe ; but as it was soon broken up, a more secure refuge 
was hastily sought under the lee of a small island. To Hall's dismay, 
he found that his Ward chronometer, which ho had sacredly guarded 
from all jars, had been unwound. Egger's he had wound up. Ward 
was "dead." 

On the 10th, pulling at the oars for a half hour and then getting 
under sail, they made four knots an hour, and at 2 p. m. saw the bold 
and snow-capped mountains of the north side of Sedla (Southampton 
Island.) Nu-ker-zJiods whale-boat, loaded with men, women, children, 
dogs, and all manner of truck — his sled across the boAv — moved lazily 
along under mainsail and jib. While Shoo-she-ark-nook^ s son was steer- 



J ant;, 1865.] 



Encampment on Repulse Bay. 



177 




INNUIT IVORY COMB. 




INXUIT BONE COMB. 



ing, his father was searcliing the boy's head for Jcoo-miks for his supper. 

Upon the floe, Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk, who, with his family, had come up by 

land, was discovered not far 

off, urging forward his dogs. \Vr 

When the tide turned. Hall's 

party had hard work at the 

oars, but at midnight of the 

10th they made their first 

landing on the ice of Repulse Bay. A stream of heavy ice threatened 

to crush the boat, but by great exertions it was hauled up on the floe, 

which almost immediately broke up. 

After repeated like severe experiences, 

the twenty-first encampment was made 

on the shores of the bay at midnight 

of the 13th, in lat. 6Q° 15' N., long. 85° 16' W. Hall thought there 

was a history in this one day. But this bay, from which he was at 

some future time to set out for King William's Land, had now been 

reached. Disheartening it was that the season of that year was too far 

advanced for sledging, and that for the rest of the month he was to 

make here his home. 

On the 19th he crossed Hurd's channel from a landing on the 
island near Cape Frigid. Ou-e-la spoke of a party of Iwillik Innuits, 
including ^r-^oo-a, Slioo-sTie-ark-nook, and -S'ee-^ar (Ow-e-Za's father), who, 
while out walrusing in these waters, were carried off on a broken floe 
and landed on Sedla. By watching the first opportunity they got 
upon another floe, on which they were carried by the tide to Iwillik 
arriving there in a perishing condition, after eating all their dogs and 
suffering from extreme cold. 



S. Ex. 27- 



-12 



178 Game Plentiful. ljuo*, ises. 

While Hall was on Southampton Island he took many observa- 
tions for the determination of the coast line ; he returned with his 
party to his twenty-first encampment at 8 p. ni. of the 22d. The latter 
part of the month gave him the opportunity of writing up the journals 
which he designed to send to the United States by the first whalers 
that should appear in the bay. He took his share in the frequent 
hunts opened up by the season. 

Game had steadily increased from the beginning of the month. 
On their sail from the Wager it had been constantly in sight, giving 
them a number of deer, fourteen partridges, and an ook-gooJc shot from 
Ou-e-la's boat; in the middle of the month, when Ar-too-a, See-gar^ and 
Ar-goo-moo-too-lik, with their three sledges, joined the sailing party on 
the floe, they reported eleven deer killed on their route; and during 
the last two weeks of the month, the whole party were in the highest 
spirits from the very large number of deer, seals, and rabbits that were 
taken. The young deer were found to have their new horns quite 
large. The rabbits had now already heralded the approach of sum- 
mer by changing their white fur for coats of a light brown or slaty 
hue. As early as the 16th, the first flowers, (the purple saxifrages,) 
had been seen growing abundantly in patches on the plains. 

Ou-e-la's hunting was again successful by his great skill in entic- 
ing and securing his prizes. Approaching the deer, he worked himself 
along so stealthily from rock to rock as to escape the animal's closest 
watch, and, although the crows were noisily affrighting the herd, he 
quickly killed several. Skinning one in seven minutes, he left the 
meat for one of his wives to bring in ; and approaching a fawn, he art- 
fully uttered sounds so successfully imitating its doe, that it ran toward 
him, giving Hall the opportunity of shooting it and of receiving con- 



se'co 



1>?^ Terr, 




^.^^ShipsHbr.'M.s. 



L S E BAY ■•... 

Ooglariyour i:« 




^ZuEncP 






Cap 









.^ 



V 



O- 



se^no 



June, 1865.1 Eefradion. 179 

gratulations on his return to the tupiks. With the assistance of Ebier- 
bing-'s Hke tact, Hall wounded a deer, which he endeavored to drive or 
lead in toward his tent; but when the strap of the marine glass was 
fastened around its head, the untamed animal reared, kicked, danced, 
butted, and cut such wild capers that, within a quarter of a mile of 
home, they were compelled to knock it on the head. Ebierbing-, on a 
visit with some others to Oog-la-ri-your Island, caught twenty-six seals 
on the same day. Ou-e-la brought in, besides three deer, several pin- 
tail ducks, with their eggs which were of a greenish cast, but smaller 
than those of the eider; — of the size of hen-eggs only. 

On the afternoon of the 26th, from the top of a little hill, Hall 
observed a remarkable instance of refraction. The mountains of 
Southampton Island, which are of no great height and their slopes 
gentle, appeared to be very high and precipitous ; an irregular chain 
was converted into a huge plateau. A descent of even 5 feet from his 
position made the mountains appear nearly natural; one of 10 feet 
entirely so. 

In his excursions he met with two specimens only of iron ore 
resting on primitive rock. 

On the 1st day of July he moved a short distance to the Island 
of Oog-la-ri-your, where the larger number of his Innuit friends had 
already encamped for more conveniently hunting the seal. On remov- 
ing their tupiks, the blubber which had been saved was stored away in 
seal-skin '■'■drugs^'' and deposited in a cache for winter use. When 
making these bags they took off the skin from the animal unbroken 
except by a small opening about the head, and when this cut was made, 
a knife was thrust in longitudinally and used freely until the blubber 
was completely separated from the skin; the fore flipper was jointed. 



BOAT JOURNEYS IN 1865 



WINTER QUARTERS 1865-66 




Bra.wTL' by A . L\-n.dcn.hohl- 



180 Too-koo-li-too III. [juir, i865. 

The seal was then worked out by the hole made at the head. If any 
small rent had been accidentally made, it was carefully sewed up 
before filling. 

Just before their removal to Oog-la-ri-your, the natives had been 
suffering from very severe colds and pains in the chest ; some had 
entirely lost their voices. Hall's medicines had been in frequent 
requisition, particularly for the relief of SJioo-she-arJc-nook, now saved a 
second time from dying; but he believed that the improvement in their 
habits of living which he had induced the natives to make, had yet more 
to do with his success as a practitioner. His own health was again gen- 
erally good. On the top of this island of Ooglariyour were the 
remains of the merry Ivit-chuk of Dr. Rae's party, and those of his 
wife. Ou-e-la told Hall that at one time very many Innuits lived 
there, but nearly all had died off. 

He was detained at this twenty-second encampment, lat. 66° 19', 
long. 85° 23', throughout the whole month and until the 7th of 
August, by the severe illness of Too-koo-li-too from an attack of 
pneumonia. His notes on one of the days of her illness are : " Her 
symptoms are of the most serious character. She raises blood direct 
from her lungs. I feel that I have neglected to teach these children 
of the North their religious duties. Indeed, I feel that I need myself 
a teacher, and I am brought to know that I need a new heart. 0, may 
I learn from the glorious Bible my duty, and by the help of God per- 
form it." He much interested her by reading from the scripture his- 
tory, especially that of Joseph, which story she in turn went over 
again to her husband. Hannah was still under the influence of super- 
stition. It required a long and patient reasoning to convince her when 
sick that she could eat anything which Ou-e-la brought in, for the 



joir, 1863.) Mode of Cutting uip the Ook-gook. 181 

natives had told her something- was wrong at his birth. She was at 
times persuaded to drink the soup out of which Hall was accustomed 
to eat some of Ou-e-ld!s took-too meat. 

The natives were industriously occupied in boat and sledge jour- 
neys, securing a large amount of game for their subsistence through 
the coming winter. By the close of the month, the footing up showed 
twelve seals, nine ook-gooks, thirty-seven deer, and a bear, besides four 
ducks and thirty-eight eggs. Hall's advice secured this increase, as 
well as the preservation of the well-dried meat in drugs of oil, in which 
it would keep sweet and fresh and already " buttered." He witnessed 
the mode of cutting up ook-gook and preparing from its skin the lines 
for securing the walrus, as well as for sledge tracings and lashings. 
From an ook-gook 9 feet in length the skin was cut into strips, and 
then stretched by block and tackle between the rocks. When suffi- 
ciently dried, the strips were made soft and pliable by rubbing and 
chewing. The land of civilization, he says, has nothing equaling 
these lines in strength and endurance of wear and tear. In the divis- 
ion made in cutting up the animal, a woman received an equal share 
with each of the men. The ice on the coast still remaining hummocky, 
it was very difficult to get a heavy ook-gook upon the island ; yet, if 
the carcass was insufficiently covered with snow, ice, or deer-skins, 
the burning rays of the sun in a few moments destroyed the skin ; or 
if the bear made its ready visit, it struck its huge claws through the 
tough coat, completely riddling it and tearing out the meat and 
blubber. 

On the 22d, Hall visited the whaler Black Eagle, on board of 
which he had an opportunity of comparing and rating his chronome- 
ters. The first whaler of the season had been sighted on the 15th by 



182 Whalers in SigM. fjaiy, ises. 

Ou-e-Ia, who had instantly harnessed up his dogs and hastened off to 
infoiTu Hall. On Nu-ker-zJwo's coming in to confirm the report, he 
was directed to bring the longest pole he could find to the top of the 
island and fasten on it one of the American flags as a signal. At 
thirty minutes past midnight, with some little difficulty on account of 
the fog, the vessel was descried a little to the westward of Cape Frigid. 
The sight was sufficiently exciting and joyous to Hall to keep all 
sleep from him. He sent Ou-e-la to occupy his own took-too bed, while 
he went again and again to the crest of the island to watch the vessel 
and the movements of the ice ; and he was very soon able to make 
out a second visitor traversing the Welcome from east to west, and 
then returning on the opposite tack. He hoped to find that these 
were the Antelope and the schooner Helen F., which had been winter- 
ing at Depot Island and Marble Island ; for he remembered that Cap- 
tain Chapel had advised him that these vessels, as soon as released 
from the ice, would cruise for whales in Repulse Bay. He was par- 
ticularly anxious to discover some lead in the pack through which the 
Sylvia might be pulled by the strong arms of the Innuits to the ships, 
as he expected they would have on board a team of dogs for him, the 
captains having promised to bring all the dogs, which would be of no 
further use to them after the spring whaling was finished They had 
been chiefly useful in sledging the blubber over the floe which lay 
between the ships and the open water. 

From any attem})t to go out to his visitors when first sighted he 
had ])een entirely held back by a storm breaking over the island. 
In describing this, he says : 

Yesterday iiiorniiig, the sky was overcast aud gloomy, tlie weather h)oking 
threatening as if a storm wouhl soon be upon us ; and, besides, at 1()..'}0 a. m. of 



July, 1865.] The Storm. 183 

tlie IJrtli, a thick fog, the tirst of the kind that 1 remember has occurred this 
season, commenced rising over the open water southward, and by 11 a. m. it was 
driven here by a southeast wind, enveloping the island in it. The succeeding 
morning, the fog was again over the open water and over the ice of Repulse Bay, 
the wind still southeast and south-southeast. From the morning of the 13th the 
barometer began to fall, standing then 30j^o inches; it gradually continued fall- 
ing to Saturday morning, the 16th, from which time to evening it dropped down 
three-tenths of an inch. In connection with all this, I may mention what some 
might consider a trifle ; nevertheless it shall have a place here. A small i)Ool or 
reservoir of fresh water is close by the tupilc, xao^^tly on solid rock, but one side of 
it consists of moss and grass growing over cobblestones. Now, this pool rises 
and fjills quite as regularly as the tide, though only about one-half as often. 
During the night the water of this reservoir falls, and from morning to evening 
it rises. The rise and fall seems to be quite uniform in height one day after 
another. Last night this water was nearly exhausted. Indeed, when I saw it 
just before the thunder-storm I was greatly surprised to find it so. This with 
other indications told unmistakably that something unusual was about to transpire 
in nature's elements. At 2.30 a. m. the first thunder-clap that I have ever heard 
in the northern regions occurred, the same being preceded by sharp lightning. 
A little while after, loud thunder pealed forth here, there, eveiywhere around 
Repulse Bay, especially away in the direction of Gibson's Cove, the extreme 
northwestern part of Repulse Bay, where were such jjiles of heavy black clouds — 
Heaven's electric battery — and such a continuous roar of thunder therefrom that 
I could not help thinking of the Almighty hand which holds the elements. 

The storm ended at 4.20 a. m. 

Ar-mou told Hall he had seen ou-mer, (lightning,) twice at Ig- 
loo-lik. His people never knew it to kill an Innuit. To-koo-li-too 
said in her country it struck red dogs ; so they always killed such when 
puppies. 

The old woman E-vit-shung gave a specimen of her treatment 
of her own dogs, which was amusing though severe. She found 
them one day asleep when tied up to the rocks, as was often neces- 
sary to prevent their cutting with their teeth into the oil-drugs and 
meat ; a valuable drug had just been almost entirel}- ruined. This, 



184 Stoning the Bogs. ijmy, ises. 

however, was not the cause of E-vit-shung' s fearful pounding. When 
she arrived where some of the dogs were constantly kept fast to the 
rocks by long thongs, she stopped and commenced pelting one of the 
largest with stones. Every time she made a throw, she spoke to the 
dog as though he could comprehend Innuit speech. What she did 
say amounted simply to this : 

" Here you are, old dog, aud all the rest of you, sleeping and basking in the 
hot sun's rays all day, and at night wide awake, howling, barking, and crying, 
keeping me and all others about from getting any quiet sleep ; and now, old fel- 
low, I am giWng you these stones for pay. As for the rest of you brutes, I will 
give you some another time." Her throws were of some account so far as this 
goes. She hit every time, and made the dog cry wofully. Each time she picked up 
a stone and held it in her hand, the dog watched her closely. Several false-throw 
motions were first made by the old woman, and when the dog ceased dodging, out 
would fly the huge stone from her hand, hitting him on the head, nose, or other 
parts of the body. My laughing so heartily was from the business-like manner 
in which the old lady addressed the dog during the severe castigation she 
was administering to it. If E-vit-shung can whip Innuit dogs a long time after 
they have done their evil work and make them understand just what their cbas- 
Usement is for, then either she has a supernatural power, or the Innuit dogs are 
intelligent beings, moral agents, so to callthem. 

The old woman had been doing better service in the early part 
of the day by bringing word to Hall of the blowing of a whale, which 
she and her companion in the tupik had heard. 

Hall says that the dogs are both a blessing and a curse ; — almost 
constantly in mischief, opening seal-blubber drugs, howling all night, 
and ofttimes stealing into tents and abstracting meat, eating harness and 
walrus-lines. There is no end to the damage these brutes are all the 
time surreptitiously doing. But, on the other hand, in winter which 
includes about three-fourths of the year, they are of such value as 
draught animals, and as bear, musk-ox, and seal-dogs, that, with all their 



Angnst, 1865. 



The Endurance of the Eskimo Dor/. 



185 



depredations, on no consideration could the Innuits do without them. 
The severitv with which thev treat these friends has been more than 
once noted. Ar-mou and Ou-e-Ja beat several of them to death with 
an oar, and at one time with a hatchet. Their tenacity of life appears 




ESKIMO DOG. 



[ From a photograph of Captain Chapel's. ] 

plainly in the midst of their sufferings when drawing such heavy loads 
wliile half famished, and in their endurance of unmerciful poundings. 
A case is cited, too, in which an animal pierced with several rifle- 
balls recovered his full strength, although sick when shot. 

On the 6tli of this month, scarcely any ice was to be seen in Mid- 
dleton's Frozen Strait, the Welcome, or Repulse Bay. Hall thought 



186 Death of SJioo-she-arJc-nook. [August, ises. 

the term Frozen Strait a misnomer, being informed that it is never 
entirely closed. Refraction was much less marked than any which he 
had observed for many weeks past. The nights growing dark, he could 
no longer write up his notes in the tupik at midnight. Mosquitoes, which 
had first showed themselves July 10, were now filling the air; the 
number caught in the fresh paint which Nu-ker-zJioo had put upon his 
boat was beyond computation. The water-supply was renewed from 
a pool on the surface of an ice-floe near the island. The party who 
procured this could have secured a whale lying a little distance off", 
with his back out of the water, if their weapons had been at hand. 
Two other whales were seen by others the same day. Ou-e-la, who 
had made an encampment about five miles to the north, for better 
salmon fishing, was espied by Ar-moii coming down under sail, and 
on landing proceeded directly to Hall's tupik to inform him of the 
death of his much-beloved brother, SJioo- she-ark-nook. He received 
Hall's warmest sympathy, which he well knew he had reason to expect 
from the experience of a visit during a late serious accident in his 
family. His eldest son had fractured his skull by a fall upon the 
rocks among the hummocks, and although Ou-e-la had healed the 
fracture by applying the powerful suction of his mouth to bring the 
pieces together, he came to his old friend to tell him of the accident 
and its effect upon his wife in her peculiar situation. He now brought 
sad news. 

"Strange customs have these Innuits. Neither Ou-e-la nor his 
brother Ar-too-a will now smoke, though they both are great smokers. 
They retain upon their heads the usual covering from morning till 
night. This covering at any other time, and especially when entering a 
tupik, is thrown back, leaving the head bare. To this head-covering 



August, 1805.] Encampment on Haviland Bay. 187 

the skin and feathers of a pee-tu-lark^s head were fastened, and a feather 
of the same water-fowl to each arm, just above the elbow. Ou-c-la 
and each of the male relatives of SJioo-she-ark-nook have a belt 
around the waist. Then, besides, they constantly wear mittens. On 
offering Ou-e-la some coffee, bread, and venison, he declined taking 
any, because he must have food cooked for himself separate from 
others during the term of mourning." 

On the 7th, Hall with his party removed to the west side of Havi- 
land Bay, making the passage in a rain-storm in just five hours — 2^ to 
,H knots per hour — on a northwest course across the mouth of the bay. 
The storm had begun from the southeast on the night previous to their 
setting out from the twenty-second encampment ; but the weather clear- 
ing during the day, the party had embarked on four boats ; the Sylvia 
and the Lady Franklin, with the boats of Ou-e-la and Nu-ker-zlioo. All 
were well laden with drugs of seal-blubber, sledges, dogs, men, women, 
and children, and the usual Innuit chattels. A breeze from the north- 
east favored them on a part of the voyage, but torrents of rain fell, 
and the greatest care was taken by all the party of Too-koo- 
li-too, who had been so long an invalid. The landing was made with 
ease at low tide, but to find a suitable place for the tupiks was diffi- 
cult, as the rocks were everywhere dished, had pools in every excava- 
tion, and were sending down streams of water in every direction. The 
Innuits who had preceded Hall in removing from Oo-glari-your Island 
occupying the only available dry spot, he was obliged to take the most 
convenient one above high-water mark. At midnight the tupiks were 
completed, and the party comfortably housed at this new encampment, 
lat. Q>Q° 31' N., long. 85° 50' W. 



188 A Woman An- ge-ko Questioning ^^ Sidney." lAngu.t, ises. 

In the interval of a clear sky on their journey, two vessels had 
been again sighted at a distance to the southward; but indistinctly 
through the mist. Not even their masts would have been above the 
horizon, if refraction had not brought them up and their duplicates 
also; each vessel, from the water-line about it to the truck being 
matched by its complete image inverted, hulk to hulk, and all sus- 
pended in the clouds above the sea horizon. The day following, the 
two ships, the Black Eagle and the Ansel Gibbs, again appeared, 
beating up Repulse Bay. They anchored near an island to the south- 
west. Ebierbing and Ou-e-la had volunteered at a late hour of the 
night previous to go out to these ships in the offing. The wind fresh- 
ening to a gale, Ou-e-la, more cautious than Ebierbing, soon returned; 
but the latter, after causing Hall much anxiety for many hours, still 
remained out of sight. As he had with him in the Sylvia Nu-ker- 
zlioo, Oung-oo-cJioo, and Tuk-too, their old mother, E-vit-shung who felt 
that all her earthly treasures were in danger, invested herself witli the 
office of an an-ge-ko; and after having by the dawn of day satisfied 
herself by the answers of " Sidney," that although the Sylvia could 
not reach the ships, it would come back safe, she had relieved the 
minds of the other Innuits. In her communing with the spirit, she 
had been throwing her left hand continually around, giving a twisting 
motion to the thong which she had tied to a heavy stone, and 
"Sidney's" answers had come to her by his increasing or diminishing 
the weight of this stone. When the party returned, they reported that 
they had made a landing until the storm subsided, and having their 
fire-amis with tliem had made a successful took-too hunt. 

Before their arrival several boats' crews put off from the ships to 
visit Hall, for whom they had beea looking when passing Oo-gla-ri- 



Aagnst, 1865.] A VisU froM the Black Eagle. 189 

your Island. He records with much feeling the emotions which he 
experienced when the mate of the Black Eagle leaped ashore from 
the first boat and hailed him with the news, " The war is ended ! but 
our President is assassinated." '' This thunderbolt transfixed me to 
the spot ; that the war was ended was what I had fondly anticipated 
I would learn ; but who of my worthy countrymen would be pre- 
pared for such news — ' Our President is assassinated.' " This with 
many other items of an interest fully to be appreciated by one so long 
shut out from the civilized world, was afterward placed in full before 
him in the files of New York and Boston papers which had been 
received by the whalers from the Daniel Webster at Marble Island, 

The best feeling continued to prevail between Hall and the cap- 
tains of the two whalers during their stay. On his visits to their ships, 
he informed them of the places in which a number of black whales 
had been seen by himself and by the Innuits, who had also seen 
many white whales (Belphinus Albicans), which were small. As to the 
color of these, the natives said that it was the young ones but two or 
three years old which retain the walrus or brown hue ; the old ones 
{kil-lee-lu-yers) are white. He regretted that the other whalers did 
not come up into the bay to share in the partial success of the Ansel 
Gibbs and the Black Eagle. Being informed on the 20th that they 
did not design to winter here and thought it best not to risk any fur- 
ther detention, he spent a whole night on board one of the ships writ- 
ing up his journals and dispatches to friends at home. 

The letters of Captain Kilmer written at this time show his deep 
interest in the friend whom he was leaving, and gave practical proof 
of it by advising him of a deposit of provisions and stores made for 
him on shore. Hall notes Ou-e-la's honesty in keeping for him a num- 



190 HaWs Crew Capture a Whale. [August, ises. 

ber of small articles also entrusted to his care by the captain ; he had 
stimulated the natives to secure for the ships as many deer as possi- 
ble. The two vessels left the bay on the 21st. Their crews had 
secured a number of whales — eight on the 15th and 16th — the oil and 
bone of which Hall estimated to be worth $25,000. 

The first opportunity now offered itself for the successful issue of 
one of the important elements in the original plan presented to the 
friends of the expedition in New York in 1862 — the capture of Avhales 
which would repay in part the advances made for the outfit. After a 
number of cruises in the boats without being able to come quite 
within striking distance, on the 30th he was congratulated by all his 
Innuit friends for the success of the day. With his party of men and 
boys he left the tupiks at 4 a. m., to hunt a whale which had been for 
some time previous blowing around. The Sylvia and the Lady 
Franklin gave swift chase to the westward, but, after an hour's 
cruise, during which the whale made several risings, they were un- 
able to get close enough, although they came almost upon it when 
rowing from an opposite direction around an islet A second whale 
was, however, almost immediately seen half a mile to the south- 
west, when the sails were quickly set and j^addles and oars vigor- 
ously plied by the crews of both boats, " each of which ran down 
the leg of a V, the whale at its joining point." Ou-e-la, from the 
bow of the Lady Franklin which reached the goal a few seconds 
before the Sylvia, threw a whale's harpoon to which was attached a 
line of 20 fathoms, having at its end two druf/s (floats). One of these 
was the forward part of an ooh-gooli skin, the covering of the head 
and flippers being as entire as when upon the living animal, with the 



August, 1S65.] The Whale Cached. 191 

exception of the transverse seam ; the other was the entire skin of a 
neit-yuk. Both were filled with air compressed by the stout lungs of 
an Innuit. Their dotible object was to indicate where the whale was 
and to tire it down. When Ou-e-la's iron struck into the back of the 
whale, it gave one slap of its flukes and went below the white seeth- 
ing waters, at first disappointing Hall, who thought it was now lost. 
He had furnished Ou-e-la on setting out with a full length of line, and 
was not acquainted with this Innuit use of floats.* But while the 
boats lay to, watching for a re-appearance, the drugs were seen far out 
in the bay flying over the waters, though with decreasing speed, and on 
the whale's again coming up to blow, it received a harpoon from Nu- 
ker-zhoo at the bow of the Sylvia, and Ou-e-Ia^s iron drew. The whale 
again turned flukes for soundings, taking out with him half of the Syl- 
via's whale-line ; it then immediately struck seaward, dragging the 
boat thi'ough the water with great speed. On its coming up and blow- 
ing, Oii-e-la lanced it from the Lady Franklin. It died within one 
hour from the first attack. 

The anchor was dropped from the Sylvia, the corners of the whale's 
flukes were cut ofi", its mouth tied up, and the fins taken one into each 
boat. The towing of the animal to a floe was made with slow^ progress 
against head tide, but at 1 p. m, the prize was taken into a small cove 
near the tupiks. Hall had breakfasted on raw mtik-tuk as soon as the 
whale was killed. The Innuits, though equally fond of the skin, 
could not join him, because they had already eaten took-too; in obe- 

* Captain Eoss, in his Narrative (1818), describes the native harpooning witnessed hy him 
in the Greenland Seas : " The harpoon has a barb about 3 inches long, and a line attached to it of 
about 5 fathoms in length, the other end of -which is fastened to a buoy of a seal's skin made into a 
bag and inflated. The blade is fixed on the end of a shaft in such a manner that it may be disen- 
gaged from the handle after it is fixed in the .animal, and the shaft is then pulled back by a liue 
tied to it for the purpose. W^hen the animal is struck, he carries down with him the seal-skin 
buoy, which fatigues him. As he must come up to rcsijire, he is followed up and killed l»y spears." 



192 Winter Quarters Made at llae^s Fort Hope, (scpiembcr, jsos. 

dience to a like superstitious idea, three days must elapse after the 
capture of the whale before any work could be done. Oi) the day 
following, the carcass was cut up and cached amid scenes of feasting-. 
Fifteen hundred pounds of the bone, designed by Hall for the benefit 
of his expedition, were securely deposited to be available on the return 
of the whalers to the bay in the following fall. 

The amount of game secured during the month was very small. 
The Innuits thought that the deer had been frightened off by the 
smell of the trying out (boiling the oil from) the blubber on the 
whalers before they sailed. 

A much greater amount of rain had fallen than Hall had expe- 
rienced at any like period during his first expedition. The natives 
said that it was very unusual, accounting for it by the fact that during 
the winter there had been little snow, and but few fogs in the spring, 
and that these heavy and continuous showers were now making up the 
deficiency in moisture. 

The general movement of the ice under the influence of the tides, 
winds, and currents, was from Frozen Strait and Hurd's Channel up 
Repulse Bay, and thence south and out through the Welcome. At 
times the bay itself was entirely filled with ice ; sometimes the straits 
were blocked ; occasionally both the bay and its entrances were free. 

On the 4th of September, Hall made his twenty-sixth encamp- 
ment, on the banks of North Pole River, near the Fort Hope of Dr. 
Rae. This was to be his winter quarters, in which he would prepare 
for his sledge journey next season to the west. From this point, also, 
he would make a survey of the bay, his observations of the coast line 
already made having satisfied him that tin improvement of the charts 



September, 1865.J RocJcs ttTid Detris ofi tliB Icc. 193 

could be made for the whalers. Steadfast in the purpose to succeed in 
the several objects of his voyage, he had declined to accept offers from 
the whalers of a passage home. When he now set up his tu-2)Uc the 
glories of a beautiful sunset were changing the Arctic hues of the 
landscape into tropical warm coloring, and filling the grayish, cool 
atmosphere with an unnatural brilliancy. 



HALL'S NOTES ON FINDING ROCKS AND DEBRIS ON 

THE ICE. 

The journal of the 25th of July contains the following items of 
interest to the scientist : 

This evening I have taken a walk among the grounded bergy pieces of ice 
that are near the west side of this island, and also on to the heavy masses of ice 
that are high and dry on the rocks on the northwest side. Spring-tides at this 
season of the year open a book that any Arctic traveler delights to read and 
study. The special part of this book of nature that 1 am at present reading, relates 
to stones, rocks, and sand found on the ice. The question among Arctic navigators 
has been, " How came these here?" Parry, when on his second voyage for the 
discovery of the Northwest Passage, met with much ice in the neighborhood of 
Southampton Island, on the surface of which he saw a surprising quantity of 
stone, sand, shells, and weed ; and respecting these he makes the following re- 
marks in his Narrative of said voyage, pages 32 and 33. 

" While on this subject, I may offer a few remarks respecting the stone, 
sand, shells, and weed found upon the surface of all ice in this neighborhood. 
The quantity in which these substances have occurred was really surprising, and 
puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found then* way 
upon the floe. This circumstance has been generally explained by simply at- 
tributing it to the whole floe having been in immediate contact with the land, 
enabling the streams to wash, or the winds to blow these substances into the sit- 
uation in which they are found, in the same manner as they are deposited on 
bergs found on the shore. But to those who have been eye-witnesses of the fact 
to the extent in which it here occurred, this mode of explaining it, however plausi- 
ble at first sight, is by no means satisfactory ; for masses of rock, not less than a 
hundred pounds in weight, are sometimes observed in the middle of a floe meas- 

S. Ex. 27 13 



194 Rods and Debris on the Ice. 

uring half a mile or more each way, and of which the whole surface is more or 
less covered with smaller stones, sand, and shells. To supj)ose the wind strong 
enough to blow these substances such a distance would be absurd ; nor is the 
supposition of their having been washed there scarcely more probable, for as a 
floe ot ice must float considerably above the surface of the sea, it is not easy to 
conceive how it can be overflowed, and much less how heavy stones can be car- 
ried half a mile along it. It has been suggested that the floe may be held down 
by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the laud above it 
rushes in a torrent along its ui)per surface. This, however, is contrary to expe- 
rience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sufiBcient to 
effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the 
beach, and, therefore, at liberty to float in the natural way. The only explana- 
tion of this fact that I can suggest is, that, as it is generally found to be the case 
to the greatest extent upon the 'Immmocky' floes, the substances may have been 
deposited upon each mass of ice when separate, and eventually brought into the 
middle of a large floe by the process detailed above. This explanation, how- 
ever, goes but a little way toward clearing up the dififlculty ; for, besides the 
necessity of supposing, in this case, that each mass of ice has in its turn been 
brought into close contact with the shore, we have never seen an instance in any 
bay or harbor where ice so brought, even under the most favorable circum- 
stances, has received any such deposit. In whatever manner it may be efl'ected, 
it is certain that these substances act an essential part in the dissolution of the 
ice, as even the smallest stone or collection of sand may always be observed to 
have formed a pool of water around it in consequence of the radiation of heat 
fi'om its surface." 

It will be seen nearly at the commencement of these remarks of Parry, that 
he says: "The quantity in which these substances have occurred was reaUy sur- 
prising, and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found 
their way upon the floes." The same subject has puzzled many a man, but I am 
confident the fact is as follows: The stones, sand, shells, and weeds are not 
deposited upon the surface of the ice; they simply are seen or appear there, as 
the ice evaporates or wastes away, which it eventually does more rapidly, of 
course, as warm weather comes on. These stones and other substances are picked 
up from the bottom of shalloAv waters by the ice resting awhile upon them and 
becoming cemented to them by the fingers of King Cold during low tide; and 
when the flocxl makes, uj) goes ice with its ponderous piclcings. But, to begin at 



Bocks and Debris on the Ice. 195 

the beginning, cold weather comes on ; the waters become cold, and, growing colder 
as winter advances, ice forms; the tides all the time never forgetting their regu- 
lar order of flood and ebb. As the spring-tides come on, during their ebb, in many 
shallow parts of Hudson's Bay, sheets of ice rest upon rocks, stones, shells, and 
weeds. These sheets of ice, as they lie, send down showers upon the already 
moist bottom, all of which con glaciate at once into a solid mass by the piercing, 
pinching cold of the north. Eoclis and stones, shells and weed, sheets of ice, 
and what was tTickling water become one solid body. The tide now floods and 
lifts the floe, having on its nether surface a ponderous load of earthy matter. 
Before another ebb. Bang Cold has succeeded in adding several inches of ice under- 
neath the structure of rocks, stones, land, shells, and weeds, which are now com- 
pletely enveloped in crystal. Ebb and flood succeed each other, and as often add 
a stone or other foreign matter, and then another stratum of ice to the floe or 
smaller pieces of ice that during certain intervals are afloat or aground. 

I Avill now proceed to give some proof of all this I have stated. Three winters 
I have spent in the northern regions, two of them in the locality of Frobisher Bay. 
Many times have I seen in the springs succeeding these winters, stones, sand, 
shells, and weeds on the top of bay-ice, or such ice as had been formed on shallow 
waters. As warm weather advanced and the ice wasted away, more and more 
of these substances would appear. My attention was more particularly directed 
to this subject during my search on my voyage of 1860-'62 for one of the relics of 
Frobisher in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, on the north side of Frobisher 
Bay. The natives had told me where one of their i)eople had thrown an anvil, 
some five years before, from a rock by the bold shore of Oo-pung-ne-wing Island into 
the sea. They were quite sure I could find this relic on the disruption and drift- 
ing away of the ice in the summer, providing I would be at the above-named 
island at some low spring-tide. Corresponding to their advice, I visited the 
island in the summer of 18G2, and at low tide the rock bottom all about the i)lace 
indicated from whence the anvil had been thrown, was just above water; but no 
anvil could be found ; indeed, not a loose stone was thereabout. The shore-ice 
had licked ui> everything movable, not leaving even so valuable a relic as the 
one sought, three centuries old. The manner in which this relic was lost to the 
world any one can judge on reading what I have now written. The shore-ice 
having enveloped the anvil in its crystal walls daring t-lie winter season, on its 
being free from land in the succeeding summer, drifted away with what would 
have been to me a valuable treasure. Had that piece of shore-ice been seen by 



196 Rocks and Debris on the Ice. 

some one at some particular time afterward, while it was wasting away, drifting 
and straggliug about, no doubt but the anvil would have appeared as though 
deposited on it. 

I come now down to the present time, to what can now be seen on and 
near the shore of this island. The present spring-tides have opened a rich 
field for study. They have by their wonderful action shown me how quickly 
they can transform the "thrice-ribbed ice" into dancing sparkling waters; how 
quickly they can tear away and destroy mountain barriers of ice, giving free 
waters for ships to sail in. These spring-tides have just been riijping up huge 
masses of ice lining the shores, and such ice as the winter's cold formed over the 
shallow waters near to the island on its western side. Could Parry and others 
who were puzzled extremely to account for the manner in which stones, saud, 
shells, and weed found their way upon the floe, but have seen what I have wit- 
nessed this evening, they would no longer have had any question about the 
matter. There is one mass of ice lying within a couple of stone-thi-ows of nij' 
tiipik, which is some G feet in thickness and 50 by 100 feet square. The ebbing 
tide has left one corner of this resting on another piece equally thick, which lies 
directly flat on the rocky bottom that is now bare from low tide. The position of 
this piece of ice, with its corner thus resting on another piece, is on an incline, 
showing its top, sides, and bottom most favorably. The whole mass consists of 
strata of stones, rocks, and sand and ice, the strata running parallel with tLe top 
and bottom of this frozen mass. From the top of this piece, stones are peering 
out. Near one end is a rock of 150 pounds weight, or more, nearly denuded of ice. 
As can be seen at the sides and ends, irregular thicknesses of layers of stones and 
sand occur. The upper j)art of this ice is much freer of those substances than 
the lower half. Comparatively, but few stones and small collections of sand are 
in the upper portion, while the beds below consist of an astonishing quantity. 
Indeed, the bottom is a stratum of nothing but rocks, stone, and sand that are 
glued together by invisible ice. Just above this bottom layer is a sheet of six 
inches in thickness of sea-ice, and then a little higher up, comes another layer of 
rocks, stones, and sand, following which is clear ice again. I should judge that 
at least two or three toim of earthy matter is frozen into that one jiiece of ice that 
I have just described. But this piece of ice is only one of the many that are now 
to be seen lying around on the rocks left bare by the ebb-tide. Some have only 
a few stones upon and in them. This feature is, however, plainly to be seen in 
nearly all, that the stones and ice are in strata. During the day much ice has 



Bocks and Debris on the Ice. 197 

been drifting along by this island, and every now and then pieces of ice bore upon 
their surface stones and rocks fully exposed. As the waves lifted them up, rock- 
ing them to and fro, exposing one side or one end of each of these, strata of stones 
were to be seen. These masses of ice had been disengaged from a belt of huui- 
mucky floe that was a i)art of the fixed ice during the past winter in Haviland 
Bay. How these masses of ice charged with earthy matter get into the midst of 
a fixed floe overlying deep water is easilj' accounted for. A cold summer jier- 
haps succeeds the winter, and before this ice is dissolved, another winter sets 
in and fastens it firmly iu the midst of a new floe, or surrounds it with old hum- 
mocky ice; all of which becomes cemented together by the advancing cold, freez- 
ing weather. * * * 

I must notice here what Parry says relative to the comparative times of 
the dissolution of the shore-ice and water rushing iu torrents from the laud 
in these northern regions : " It has been suggested that the floe may be held 
down by its firm cementation to the shore while the water from the laud above 
it rushes in a torrent along its upper surface. This, however, is contrary to ex- 
perience, which shows that long before the streams on the land are sutficient to 
effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed and detached from the 
beach, and, therefore, at libertj' to float in the natural way." 

If I understand Parry rightly he means this : that, fr-om his experience, 
long before the snows on the land of this northern country melt — causing streams, 
some of which rush in torrents — the ice next the shore completely thaws aud 
becomes detached from the beach. 

Jfow, my experience is directly the reverse of this; that is to say, from 
what I have seen, long before the ice next the shore thaws and becomes detached 
from the beach, the snows on the land melt, causing streams — indeed, some, 
rivers — some of these streams and rivers rushing torrent-Uke down the mountain- 
sides and thence over the ice belting the shore, and over the ice covering the 
waters of many bays, coves, and inlets. At the present time, wherever I look, the 
land is almost completely denuded of snow, and has been so for weeks, while the 
shores of the mainland and of the islands are in many places still belted with the 
" ice-foot," as Dr. Kane termed the ice next the land. 

UntU now, Eepulse Bay has been covered over, mostly with its fixed ice of 
last winter's formation, and this while many of the rushing torrents have long 
since dried up, their source — the melting snows — having disapijeared. Wherever 
these streams rim for a considerable time over the fixed floes, they cut their way — 



198 Rocks and Debris on the Ice. 

a canal — completely tlirough. Often in passing over the ice have I been checked 
in my course from meeting these winding, river-like channels in the ice, being un- 
able to leap them, and obliged to make to the mainland that I might renew my 
course again. It is truly a wonder to me that Parry's experience was such as he 
has recorded. From what I have just written, no one will suppose that I wish to 
make torrents and more quiet streams from the land the means by which stones, 
sand, and shells, and weeds get upon or into the ice-floe, though I may say that 
occasionally such is the fact. 



c 



HAPTER 




A SECOND WINTER LIFE— PREPARATIONS FOR THE 
FIRST SLEDGE JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. 



SEPTEMBER, 11165, TO APRIL, ia66. 



CHAPTEE VII. 



Plans for a sledge journey in the spring — Separation from the Innuits — Ebierbing, 

TOO-KOO-LI-TOO, AND AR-MOU'S FABIILY REJIAIN WITH HaLL — HlS INTEREST IN TILE DEER- 
HUNTS — Danger to life experienced — An aurora described by Hall as seen from 

HIS BED on the ROCKS — LARGE NUMBER OF DEER SLAIN — HaLL'S REINDEER DEPOSITS — 

Severe gale — Too-koo-li-too's remembrance of the Brooklyn ladies wishing her 
TO dress like civilized people — Exposures on visiting the deposits — Failure to 
catch salmon— Hall's daily subsistence — He prepares skin garments — Eemoval to 
Kow-yarn — News of the drowning of Ar-too-a — Feasts and amusements at Now- 
YARN — Visit to Oo-gla-ri-your Island — Troubles with the natives — Eeconcilia- 

TION and encouragements — TEMPERATURE OF THE WINTER MONTHS — FREQUENT AU- 
RORAS — EeADINESS for a FORWARD MOVE TO KiNG WlLLIASl'S LaND. 

The experience of the first Arctic year has been detailed, and its 
journals have given an insight into the daily life to which one was 
necessarily subjected who looked forward to the accomplishment of a 
"mission" through assistance furnished by the Eskimos. The details 
of a second winter life among the same people would not be profitably 
presented in the cases in which almost identically like experiences were 
passed through. This chapter, therefore, will ofi"er but the thread of 
Hall's occupations during this jjeriod, with a recital of such occur- 
rences as were new to him from his changed location, partial isolation 
from the larger number of his Innuit friends, and necessar}^ self- 
dependence for subsistence and for a preparation to renew his advance 

201 



202 Hall Hunting the Deer. [September, ises. 

toward King William's Land. His plans for the next year involved 
the securing of the continued friendship of the Innuits, and the stor- 
ing of sufficient provisions for a long sledge journey, as well as for 
maintaining life through the approaching winter. 

The larger part of the tribe now located themselves in places at 
some distance from him ; at first, going off to the lakes above North 
Pole River to hunt, and, after their return, living nearly all the rest 
of the season at the point named on the map (page 211) as Now-yarn 
PI arbor. Between this and Fort Hope visits were at times exchanged, 
and, during the two mid-winter months Hall lived with the natives at 
Now-yarn. Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, from the first, remained 
close b}' him, and for the sake of the latter who expected to give birth 
to a child, Ar-mou's family by the consent of the chief, Ou-e-la, re- 
mained for some time at Fort Hope. For the same reason, chiefly. 
Hall himself did not accompany the party to the lakes. 

He soon became deeply interested in the deer-hunts, making 
himself a good marksman, and being rewarded with a large success. 
During the month of September, and until the migrations of the 
deer ceased in the month following, his notes are full of wearisome 
pursuits, made almost daily over the rough hills and the hummocks of 
tlu; sea-ice 

The record of one of these hunts is this : Leaving his hut with 
Ebierbing at 8 a. m. of September 10, at midday, when three miles 
nortli of their home, they first saw a band of seventeen deer one 
(»f which Hall succeeded in killing. Making a deposit of this, and 
traveling two miles further, they sighted two others which were rest- 
ing on the plain The hunters cautiousl}' concealed themselves 
behind tlie rocks, and wlien the animals had come near to them, brows- 



Nepicinbei-, 1865.1 Closc SliooUng. 203 

ing-, Ebierbing crept across the plain, making it impossible for the 
deer to cross in front of a little lake near by without exposing them- 
selves to his clear aim. The hunters, however, found themselves in the 
embarrassing position that neither one could fire without endangering 
the life of the other. Just as Hall had taken aim, he remembered 
Ebierbing, dropped his rifle, and hid himself behind the rocks at the 
moment when Ebierbing's ball which had passed through the first 
deer, whizzed close to his head. Seeing, however, that his com- 
panion had now, in turn, liid himself, he shot the second deer, giv- 
ing Ebierbing the pleasure of a possible experience like his own. 
Each felt that he had made a narrow escape. 

Securing three more from the next herd, they skinned their 
prizes, and, as the sun was now setting, determined to remain and 
cache them the next day. For their sleeping-place they built a wall 
of stones on the windward side of a bed of moss on which, after 
smoking, chatting, and supping on raw venison, they fell comfortably 
asleep, each having one of the deer-skins for his bed, another for his 
j)illow, and a third for his coverlid. They awoke to find their cover- 
ings hard frozen, ice to the thickness of three-eighths of an inch having 
formed during the night on the pools of water near them ; but at an 
early hour they made their caches of the deer, loaded the packs of 
skins upon their backs, and continued the hunt throughout a second 
day, securing, however, but one more animal. 

Neither the fatigue of the journey nor the excitement through 
which Hall had passed prevented him from writing while on his 
rough bed: * 

The evening glorious, the clear sky, the moon, the stars! and now, at 9"^., the 
aurora grandly playing its fantastic tricks. Was ever man more blest with an 



204 An Aurora Noted from a Hard Bed. [September, ises. 

opportunity for observing some of Nature's grand order of creation than I to-night, 
here on my back, with the heavens stretched out and moving, panorama-like, be- 
fore me? O, the wondrous workings of the aurora ! Their mysteries seem i)ast 
finding out. Tlie more I see them, the less I know. The display to-night most 
gorgeous. At first, the low extended arch to the southward — its slow rising — 
the dancing beams flying to and fro from one end of the arch to the other — the 
arch multiplied into others in beautiful disorder — the prismatic fringe at the base 
of the rays. As the now several arches get higher and higher they become more 
and more lively. Now they shoot up to the zenith, and their motions become too 
quick for the eye to follow them. Now the upper heavens are tilled with the 
aurora as though in battle ; sublime and inspiring. I cannot describe the scene ; 
I can simply behold, and praise God, the author of these glorious works. 

During the month of September ninety-three deer were deposited, 
and within the next month and the first week of November fifty more 
were secured ; in the latter part of September they were frequently 
seen in large numbers, and Hall estimated that as many as a thousand 
passed in one day. The Innuits at the lakes, who were not equally 
fortunate, said that the prevalence of the southerly winds had kept the 
deer lower down, near the seashore. A few were seen by Hall as late 
as the 27th of January ; these were, at the time, going northward. 
They did not again appear until the end of March, when the does that 
were with young had begun their migration. Their rutting season 
had been in October, during which, frequently, they were more readily 
captured. 

The details of labor and exposure to which Hall subjected himself 
when depositing the carcasses of his slain animals are as interesting as 
those of the hunt. One record will suffice. It is largely condensed 
from his notes, throughout the fullness of which no items are found 
which would tempt one to suspect that the account is one of exagger- 
ated trials. They bear on their face the simplicity of that truthfulness 
which it may be hero said, once for all, has been conceded on all sides 



October, 1865.] Scvcre Exposuves. 205 

to have been a marked element in his character, and which his stead- 
fast companion, Ebierbing, has uniformly claimed for him. 

On the 20th of October, at 8 a. m., in the midst of a gale with 
snow and flying drift, the two went out to make deposits of the deer 
which they had killed the day before. With rifles in hand, they 
crossed hill and valley to Hall's own favorite deer-pass, where he had 
been accustomed to watch for the animals behind his stone wall. The 
first labor was to recover here his double-barreled gun from a deep 
snow-drift, and this required of both, a laborious shoveling of twenty 
minutes. Following the ridge of high land from the deer-pass south 
toward Gibson's Cove, they came upon their five slain animals, the 
last one they had shot being a big buck. It had been left unskinned, 
and the legs only were frozen. The skin was taken ofi", and the car- 
cass disemboweled and cut into the three principal pieces, which were 
dragged a little way further to a stony spot, where the weight of a ton 
and a half of rock was piled upon them; the bristling antlers were 
left projecting above to mark the cache To find rock and stones for 
covering the other three animals, Hall climbed the highest part of the 
ridge, where, by heavy pounding, he and Ebierbing secured two and 
a half tons. When they had dragged two of the deer up this hill, a 
rest was made for lunch on some of the unfrozen legs and for a smoke; 
but to light their pipes a match was struck after many trials only, and 
by their crowding down into a deep snow-bank and bending their 
bodies and heads over for a roof against the storm. As they sat enjoy- 
ing their puffing, the sight and the noise around them were such as 
would have struck ten-or and dismay into the heart of any one inex- 
perienced in Arctic life. The darkening clouds of sharp, cutting, 
blinding snow flying on the wings of the gale, the howling of the 



206 



Hall and Ehierhing again Successful. 



[October, 1S65. 



storm, and the cold, frowning, icy rocks, although sheltering them 
for the moment, were enough, Hall said, to make one exclaim, " None 
but devils should be doomed to such an unmerciful punishment." On 
returning to their third deer, they found that the foxes had dragged off 
the head and nearly cleaned off the meat. The paunches of all three 
were then buried within a skin in a snow-drift ; to be recovered when 
the gale ceased The first animal which they had killed and sledded 
upon a skin some distance further on, was also cached with hard labor. 
The whole day's work had been in the teeth of gale and drift. 

Entering the hut, on their return, each seemed to the other a pil- 
lar of snow, until they had for a long 
hour pounded and threshed their na- 
tive dresses with their ar-row-tars. 
But they brought in with them a 
good store of food, for Ebierbing had 
carried on his back, two legs and five 
slabs of meat, beside much tallow, 
with e-ver-tu (sinew) for thread. Hall 
had on his shoulders, with his gun, 
a substantial saddle of meat. Their 
stores left outside had been also made 
"safe in the midst of the storm from 
ihe jaws of the fox, the wolf, and the 
^r^^ equally hungry crow." 

The gale continued unbroken 
To<j-K()<)-Li-T()i). foi' five successive days. Hall notes 

this as unexampled in his experience as regards its constancy, 
force, and direction, of which he made entries in his meteorological 



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ivovciiiber, 1863.] Refractiofi. 207 

record. Too-koo-li-too expressed a wish that the lady who told her 
at the Brooklyn fan- in New York that Innuits ought to dress like 
ladies in the States, could herself take a minute's walk only at this 
time over the hill near by, when she would be very glad to change 
her fine hat and hoop-skirts for any one of an Innuit's rough 
dresses. 

The journals of November 29 and 30 have interesting notes of 
refraction and of a parhelion. The 29th was a gloriously fine day, 
although rather cold, the mean of four observations of Hall's ther- 
mometer No. 5 being 65°. 4 below freezing-point. From midday till 
evening the sky was cloudless and the air calm. At lO''- 12™- 4P'^'^' 
mean time of Fort Hope, the lower limb of the sun was half a degree 
above the sea-horizon. The place of Hall's observation was on the 
crest of the hill back of his igloo, directly opposite Beacon Hill ; the 
igloo and the hill being on opposite sides of the small stream known 
as North Pole River. 

At sunrise and for a half hour later, the refraction south and east 
was very great ; for Southampton Island loomed up from ten to thirty 
minutes of arc above the sea-horizon. The island is never visible 
from the place of observation named, except by refraction ; and Hall 
had frequently looked in vain for it from elevated points in the neigh- 
borhood. Cape Frigid, the most northerly point of Southampton, lies 
in about lat. 66° N., long. 85° 25' W., by Parry's chart ; and by the 
same chart, the junction of the river with the headwaters of Gibson's 
Cove is in lat. 66° 32' N., long. 86° 50' W., the last of which positions, 
however. Hall believed, involves an error in the chart, of seven miles. 
The cape was forty-seven geographical miles distant, but the refraction 
was so great that Hall saw not only that point, but the coast on both 



208 A Mock-Sun. rivoTcmbcr, ises. 

sides of the island far down southward. Nearly the whole entrance 
to Repulse Bay from Beach Point easterly, had land looming- up 
above the sea-horizon in a thousand fantastic and constantly-changing- 
forms. Before and at sunrise a zone of about five degrees in Avidth 
from the horizon up was of resplendent colors, extending completely 
around the heavens ; that half of the circle which was opposite the sun 
being the more gorgeous. On the going down of the sun the glow- 
ing zone was again in view. Such a display is not unusual in fine 
weather during the Arctic winter. 

At 11 a. m. of the 30th, he was on the top of Oven Hill, viewing the 
sun and a splendid parhelion 22^ degrees east of it. On account of the 
cloudiness of the heavens, there was no corresponding parhelion visi- 
ble on the opposite or west side of the sun. In fifteen minutes after 
the time given above, the sun became completely obscured by clouds ; 
but the parhelion continued shining almost as brightly as though it 
were the great luminary itself. Thinking to improve the occasion in 
determining the illusion to be a complete one, he hastened down to the 
igloo, called Ebierbing and Ar-mou, and requested them to point out 
to him where the sun was. They both pointed directly to the parhe- 
lion with the utmost confidence that it was the true sun ; their very 
looks at him bespoke the unmistakable sentiment, "Any man that is 
not blind can see that tJiere is the sun!" Hall smiled, and then his 
" good native friends " scanned to the right and left of what they 
really thought to be the sun ; but their assurance remained the same. He 
then pointed 22^ degrees to the west of the phenomenon and told them 
that in that direction was the sun. "At this time it wanted only fifteen 
minutes of being apparent noon, when, of course, the sun would be 
due south of them. A moment's reflection on the part of Ebierbing and 



December, 1865.1 Food With Difficulty Obtained from the Deposits. 209 

Ar-mou then satisfied them that it was only a mock-sun they had 
beheld." 

Visits to the deposits like those made during the autumn were re- 
peated through the winter as often as the necessities for food required. 
On the 2d of December, Hall started up North Pole River with two dogs 
for a team and a deer-skin for a sledge. He found half a saddle eaten 
by foxes, or perhaps by some smaller animal, which, from the Innuits' 
description, he thought must be the weasel. This deposit he had made 
on ground six feet above the river-level ; but a six-day gale and storm 
had formed anchor-ice on the boulders in the river's bed, bringing the 
waters up from their passage under the ice to overflow it a long way 
down the estuary before reaching the sea. The deposits made on the 
banks were therefore almost entirely lost. When he had attempted, 
a few days before, to open this cache by the use of sharp stones as 
wedges and of boulders for his hammers, he had succeeded only in mak- 
ing a few crevices, but through these the depredations had now been 
made. On this visit he fastened his dogs by their draught-lines to the 
rocks; but they no sooner saw the chips of the frozen meat flying right 
and left from the blows of a dull ax, than they began a yelping, bark- 
ing, and springing to be loosened, which continued through the two 
hours he was at work. " With much patience exercised in those 
hours of profuse perspiration," he secured the larger part of the meat, 
and then unfastened his dogs to revel on the scattered morsels and 
gnaw at the mass mixed with the ice and stones. The larger frag- 
ments and chips, placed on the deer-skin sledge out of their reach, 
were drawn back to the igloo. 

On a second journey for a like object, made in the month follow- 
ing, he set out with Nu-ker-zlwo from Now-yam before daylight, the 

S. Ex. 27 14 



210 No Bites hij the Salmon. uamiarT, isee. 

tnoon a few days past full, and the temperature, 46° below zero. They 
expected to remain out thi-ough the following night, yet took no addi- 
tions to their winter traveling- dress. A snow-knife was carried to cut 
out their igloo. The bracing air incited the dogs to their full speed, 
so that after crossing the sea-ice and ascending a small ravine on the 
surface of a rivulet leading up from a fiord of the bay, by sunrise they 
were twelve miles from the igloos and near the deposit. The land in 
the neighborhood was extremely low; that lying far to the north and 
east was high — called King-naw by Nu-Tier-zlioo. A fresh breeze added 
new stimulus to a work of profuse perspiration despite the intensity 
of the cold; but before dark they had returned home, dragging with 
them on their sled four heavy packages of venison-saddles sewed up 
in deer-skins. It had been necessary to re-ice the runners of the sled 
with moss. Their breakfast of raw frozen meat had been eaten under 
the protection of the snow-pillars supporting two kg-aks. 

No subsistence but the deer-meat was found during this season, 
excepting occasionally a few salmon, or as many as a dozen partridges. 
Hall attempted to catch salmon in a lake three miles east of Beacon 
Hill, where he baited many hooks in holes through the fourteen-inch 
ice. Dr. Rae, in 1853-'54, had found this lake well filled, but Hall did 
not get a bite. The story of the natives was that no fish had been 
caught in this lake since Rae lost his net in it. Presents were more 
than once brought in of salmon from 30 to 36 inches in length, which 
were either eaten raw or parboiled in fresh water, making, when fat, 
a rich soup 

The provisions which had been brought to Fort Hope were spar- 
ingly used The main dependence was upon venison, which was 
usually taken raw, with tood-noo or seal-blubber (often old and rancid) 



January, 1866.] Hard and Poor Fare. 211 

for butter. A favorite dish with both Hall and the Innuits was sea- 
bread soaked in ice-water sweetened with molasses ; with this he often 
treated his visitors. At times his storehouse was filled with meat, 
and a season of feasting ensued ; often, however, through failure in 
recovering deposits, or through caprice in the Innuits, he was placed 
on short rations. One extract from the record of January 2 1 will show 
his condition at such times: 

I arise usually between seven and eight in the morning, and then smoke a 
little, which for a time makes me feel less hungry. After a while I cut a few chips 
from whatever little choice block of venison I may happen to have, and eat the 
same raw and hard frozen. As eating venison alone is dry work unless one has 
tood-noo, I eat seal-blubber, which is old, of strong odor, and of strong-old-cheese 
taste. About 4 ounces of venison and 1 ounce of blubber make my breakfast. Had 
I abundance of the former, I should eat nearer 4 pounds than 4 ounces, for it must 
be remembered that it takes a great deal of the venison of this country to supply 
one's appetite and necessities in the winter. In the neighborhood of noon (really 
there is no particular time of one's taking his meals when living as the Innuits 
do), I dine on what would be called old, stinking, nauseating whale-skin; but to a 
hungry soul every bitter thing is sweet, and I, indeed, find it so. Some of the effects 
on eating the first few times of this muk-tuJc (whale-skin) are severe griping pains 
in the stomach and bowels, followed by copious diarrhea. Nearly every Innuit, 
great and small, in the village, as weU as myself, has suffered thus by eating this 
whale-skin; there were seven patients on my hands one day last week suffering 
with the above-named complaints. For my lunch, or supper, I pick out the fatty 
substance of a whale-fin, and eat with it a little more of my took-too meat, about 
the same amount as for breakfast, topping off with delicate slices of raw whale- 
beef, or of the aforesaid whale-skin, and go to bed hungry; but as soon as asleep 
I dream of friends and better times coming. 

From the scarcity of fuel, little cooking could be done. But the 
customs of the Innuits now required Too-koo-li-too in her peculiar 
condition to eat nothing but cooked meat, and an additional drain was 
made upon their small store of fuel in drying skins for their clothing. 
Tlie seal-oil, which had been so industriously collected, had suffered 



212 The Living at Fort Hope. (janaary, isoc. 

from the depredations of the bears and the wolves, and the heather 
which had been gathered, was mainly used, toward spring, in browning 
a supply of coifee for use on the proposed sledge journey. Coffee 
was served only when Hall wished specially to please his visitors. 
A corn-meal pudding was not relished, because of his long-continued 
use of raw meat. "A reindeer-head, with a complement of tood-noo 
and the paunch-contents stewed in water and reindeer-blood, was a rare 
and savory dish " Oil was sipped, and tallow and marrow in consider- 
able quantity eaten every day with the raw frozen venison. He was 
thus enabled to bear much cold without suffering; and he says, with 
a dry humor, that sometimes while feasting on tood-noo, he was appre- 
hensive of a like fate with the Inimit who, after drinking a large quan- 
tity of water with his melted tood-noo, died from the formation of a 
huge tallow candle in his stomach. 

So much for often sipping train-oil and eating whale and seal blubber; all of 
which three articles are to Innuits and myself what butter is to those in civilized 
lands. Besides, I frequently feast on tallow candles, which word I use as a fig- 
ure for pure deer's tallow ; but really I have made excellent dip-candles of tood- 
noo, and, not having use for them, have eaten them with the same good relish as 
though the tallow was not made into candles. 

The water-supply at Fort Hope was obtained from North Pole 
River, through a hole chiseled in the ice about six inches in diameter. 
From the surface of the ice to the water was three feet. When snow 
filled this hole, new ice formed daily to the depth of three inches; at 
other times, six inches of ice were removed before water could be 
obtained. On one occasion, when the temperature had fallen 20°, 
Hall was surprised to find but half an inch of ice under the snow. 
On the same day the heather-fuel was with difiiculty ignited, although 
the circumstances were the same as at other times ; he did not under- 



janaarr, 1866.J Hull and Ehierhifig Preparing Winter Garments. 213 

stand either of these phenomena. His Innuit friends complained that 
in times of severe cold their fire-lamps were very dull. 

According to an early-formed purpose, he and Ebierbing had 
begun in November to prepare enough deer-skins for their full winter 
raiment. This work comprised the different operations of drying, 
scraping, re-drying, and re-scraping described in Chapter IV. Too- 
koo-li-too, as a young mother, could not work on these. Ar-mou and 
his wife had already prepared their furs. Hall found himself a green 
hand in even the first of these operations, which gave him four times 
the work of an Innuit. It took two skins to make him a single koo- 
lee-tang, or native coat or frock. For a double one for winter use four 
were used. 

To get sufficient warmth to dry the skins, they were hung around 
the "Conjurer," or small cook-stove, in the "snow 
kitchen"; and, as the heather could not be spared for 
the drying only, a quantit}^ of coffee was browned 
at the same time. Ebierbing was able to use his 
needle so deftly that he made himself a pair of mit- 
tens of the skin from two deer-legs. deer-skln glovks. 

Hall's clothing was now almost exclusively of furs. By the mid- 
dle of December he had doffed his undershirt, and in Februar}', his 
drawers ; and for the rest of the season he dressed wholly like his 
Innuit companions. His experience as to the influence of imagina- 
tion upon his sensibility to cold is noted in the fact that, on several 
occasions, when the Eskimos repeatedly expressed their surprise that 
he did not protect himself while making his observations outside of 
his igloo, he seemed unconscious of the increased cold ; he had been 




^ 



214 Removal to Now-yarn. (jmnnary, isee. 

regarding his thermometer only, which, because of an air-bubble in 
the tube, did not indicate the true lower temperature of 20°. 

Having always taken great care of his Ai'ctic library, even in his 
removals from place to place, he again devoted his spare hours to 
study. Finding his books, in the early part of the season, in great 
danger of being injured by the dampness, he attempted by himself to 
build for them a new igloo ; but, while cutting the blocks a short dis- 
tance off, Ar-mou quickly cut out others from the spot on which the 
igloo was to be built, and surprised him on his return by presenting 
him with a completed dome. Not long after, Hall succeeded in build- 
ing a cook-igloo, when Ar-mou and Ebierbing, skilled as they were in 
such work, showed their surprise that a kob-lu-na had built it so well; 
saying that they would never feel alarmed about him if caught out 
alone in the storms, for he could easily protect himself. 

The removal to Now-yarn had taken place on the 1st of Decem- 
ber, when Hall received a visit from Nu-Jcer-^hoo, Ou-e-la, and his half- 
brother, Oong-oo-choo, from their settlement at that place, about sixteen 
miles to the eastward. He was busy at his skin-dressing when Ou-e-la 
suddenly appeared, pushing in before him into the igloo a present of 
whale-blubber and muk-tuk. The approach of the party had not been 
noticed because of the thickness of the weather. Cordial greetings 
were followed by feasting through the evening, and after the igloo was 
sealed, a lengthy conference was held, as the result of which it was 
determined that Hall, with Ebierbing, Too-koo-li-too, and Ar-mou and 
his family, should spend the rest of the winter at Now-yarn. 

The larger part of the stores being deposited amid the rocks, and 
Hall having made two trips to Rae's oven in which he now stored his 
medicine-chests and smaller articles, the move was begun under bright 



jannarr. 1866.1 Death of Ar-too-tt. 215 

moonlight, at 3 a. m. of the 5th. Twenty dogs drew out of the igloos 
very heavy loads of venison from the unconsumed stores. The larger 
part, however, was re-cached, while a number of fine deer-skins were 
necessarily abandoned. The two women, with their babes on their 
backs, led the way, a seat on top of one of the sleds being soon found 
for Too-koo-li-too, who had been sick. Hall and Ou-e-la walked by 
the first sled, Ebierbing and Nu-ker-zlioo by the second, and Ar-mou 
and Oong-oo-choo by the third. But the loads were too heavy for them 
to finish the rough journey to Now-yarn before night ; the pile from 
one sled, therefore, was cached, and the sled put up on end, and wal- 
rus-lines hung from its peak to swing in the wind and frighten the bear 
and the wolf from the cache. The journey was finished at 3 p. m. 

At Now-yarn the new-comers were cordially received with the 
usual feast of venison and tood-noo, and two new igloos wei'e quickly 
built. Hall found the widows of Ar-too-a and Sho-she-ark-nook, and 
their mother in deep mourning, the long, coarse, raven hair of Ar- 
too-a's widow completely hiding her face, neck, and shoulders. News 
of the death of Ar-too-a had been brought to Hall by Nu-ker-zhoo and 
Oong-oo-cJioo some weeks before. Ar-too-a had gone out in his ki-a 
(or one-man boat) alone. This was contrary to Innuit custom, but 
he was known as a bold, venturesome spirit who never quailed to 
attack the bear with a single spear, or to hunt the fierce walrus far 
out on the ice ; his death had been more than once predicted. At the 
time it happened, one of the Innuit women on the shore heard a cry 
of distress, and on her giving the alarm, two ki-as quickly pushed out 
into the lake. They found his boat and his implements, except one 
spear, but his body had sunk. It was supposed that while he was 
spearing one of a band of deer crossing the lake, some huge buck 



216 



The Ki-as of Repulse Bay. 



f February, 1866. 



proved ugly, and in the encounter kicked up his heels, striking the 
boat, which was at once upset. 

Hall notes the difference between the ki-as of this country and 
those of Greenland, Frobisher Bay, and Hudson's Strait : 

The M-as here are of far less weight than those of Greenland — not so long 
or so wide. Indeed, they are not more than 25 pounds weight, while those on the 
west side of Davis's Strait ofttimes exceed 100 pounds. A Greenlander, or any 
Innuit anywhere from Hudson's Strait up to Northumberland Inlet, on getting 
into one of the Mas of this country would capsize as quickly as a white man 
in theirs. Ebierbing at first could do nothing in them but roU over, M-a and 
all. To get properly into one of these boats, an Innuit has to work and wiggle 
his body a long time. I cannot imagine how Ar-too-a managed, on getting caj)- 
sized, to get his body out of his M-a, so tight was he squeezed in when in it. 




KEPULSK BAY Kl-A. 



Elsewhere, he notes his surprise on learning that the natives com- 
})lained that he had kept Ar-mou with him. They bitterly felt the loss 
of their an-ge-ko, and said that if Ar-mou had gone 
up with Ar-too-a to the lake he might have been 
at hand to save him. Old Ook-har-Ioo, mother-like, 
held on to a hope that she would yet look upon 
her son. 

The midwinter months, to the 8th of Feb- 
ruary, were passed comfortably with the natives 
at or near Now-yarn. The stock of provisions 
was ample, and hunting unnecessary as well as impracticable ; the 
time was, therefore, spent mostly within the if/loos, in the usual 
amusements and feasting the character of which has already been 
described. The number of souls in the village, including women and 




KY-AK ORNAMENT. 



February, 1866.1 



Population of Noiv-yarn. 



217 



children, was forty-three. This number Ou-e-Ia counted up by keep- 
ing open with his finger for Hall the same number of leaves in one 
of his little volumes — the Book of Psalms. The Eskimos, as is well 
known, can generally count as far as ten, but after that, they only 
say, am-a-su-it or am-a-su-ad-lu (many, a very great many). 





DEATH ()!>' AR-TOO-A. 



Almost every day the whole population came together for the 
feasts. At times, Hall showed his continued good-will bv giving 



218 



Amusements. 



[February, 1866. 



special entertainments, at which he waited himself on the younger 
children, after feasting the adults. Free smoking assisted the good 
humor, when tobacco, as well as other articles, including desiccated 
vegetables, were drawn from the stores taken out with him from the 
United States. To leave no exception from his invitations, he urged 
old mother Ook-bar-loo to release Too-koo-li-too from the iron custom 
which was working against her at the time. The favor was granted, 
but Too-koo-li-too, from superstitious fear, declined to avail herself of 
the dispensation. Her babe, born September 16, was, in her judgment, 
yet too young. 

Amusements necessarily formed a large part of the occupations of 
the village. Wrestling and otlier gymnastic exercises were not only 
much relished, but instinctively practiced with frequency, to maintain 
that muscular jjower of which the race were in conscious need for 
their success and personal safety in the hunt and in severe exposures. 




IXNL'IT TKJIIT-UOI' 



The tight-ropo was in use, stretched witliin the i(jloo by thongs of wal- 
rus-hide, wliich, with some skill, were securely fastened on tlie outside 
of the roof Games of checkers and dominoes were often interrupted 



February, 1866. 



New Year's Day. 



219 



by long yarn-spinning, chatting, and smoking. The dance and the 
masquerade ball were not infrequent. 

The first month of the new year had closed with a celebration of 
a unique character. Hall had announced to them the opening of the 
year by passing round through the connected snow-houses and shout- 
ing its coming with so loud a voice and at such an hour as even to 
frighten the people. They seemed to have reciprocated his atten- 
tions with interest. The whole day was busily spent in preparing for 
the masquerade and the dance; and when the ball opened, the most 
grotesque costumes imaginable provoked loud and continued laughter 




INNUIT HEAD-ORNAMENT— SEAL-TEETH ; BEADS FKOM DR. RAE. 

from all the company; for the garments had been hastily patched 
up from all the second-hand articles of clothing, such as pants, shirts, 
drawers, remnants, and pieces of cloth, calicoes, and stuff which had 
been picked up at times from the whalers; and these were put on by 
men, women, and children, even the smallest, with a studied care to 
make themselves ridiculous. The masks were of reindeer-skin. The 
performance came off in the triplet igloo of ^^Nu-ker-zhoo, Ar-goom-oo- 
too-lik, See-gar & Co.," where dancing to a late hour was accompanied 
by the key-low-tik, with monotonous singing, and a cheerful, tuneless 



220 



Miniature Sledges. 



[Prbrnary, 18«4t. 



accordeon. Dancing in couples, dancing altogether, and dancing 
singly, filled up the hours. 




IV n 



GROUND-PLAN OF THE FEASTING-IGLOO — SCALF,, i\f" = 12". 

I. Passage-way, about 6 feet high. II. Vestibule, 9 feet high. III. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 
3 inches; height of bed-platform, 2 feet 9 inches. IV. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 6 inches; 
height of bed-platform, 3 feet. V. Igloo — floor to dome, 9 feet 5 inches; height of bed- 
platform, 2 feet 7 inches. B. Bed-platform; F. Floor; L. Lamp. 

At the close of other entertainments when the storm did not sliut 
them in-doors as on the occasion of Hall's feasting them on Christmas 
night, the boys harnessed up a team of little dogs and gave the 
youngest children a good sledge-ride on the ice of Repulse Bay. For 
such rides, miniature teams of puppies but two months old were some- 
times driven with much skill by the young children; the puppies being 
harnessed by the line only, and the young drivers using the long whip 



February, 1866.] 



Trip to Oo-gla-ri-your Island. 



221 



just as the men do. Their sleds are about two feet in length. The 
village, outside the igloos^ was illuminated with '^nanny-roons,^'' or lan- 
terns, some of ice, others of snow. Hall says, about these: "Eeally 
there is no occasion for any one to bring glass windows or glassware 
into this country, for King Cold gives us the material during nine 
months of the year. These lanterns are fine specimens of the handi- 
work of the race." 

On the 3d of February, Hall and Nu-ker-zhoo made a very rough 
journey back to Oo-gla-ri-your Island, to recover a favorite artificial 
horizon, first used on the expedition of 1860 to 1862. The instrument 
was readily found by Nu-her-zhoo on the surface of the snow, but in a 
damaged state ; the woodwork eaten by foxes and the mercury wholly 
lost. The two were back at Now-yarn at the close of the second day, 
having passed one night in an igloo on the ice. On this trip of sixty 
miles they were more than once jerked from the flying sledge "like 
stones from a sling." On the island a native sledge was found, made 




ESKIMO SLEDGE. 



\ 



entirely of the jaw-bone of a whale. It was very heavy. The run- 
ners were 12 feet long, 10 inches deep, and 1| inches thick, and were 



222 



Now-yarn Harbor and the Cliff. 



IFobruarjr, 1866. 



£hod with the same bone; the cross-bars measured 20 inches. Ou-e-la 
said that it belonged to the father of the I-vit-cJiuck already named. 
Hall now spent several days in the busy work of surveying Now- 
yarn harbor and its vicinity, making the sketch of which the cut 
below is a fac-simile. 



Lakelet. 




Wth Unct 



A cli£F on the border of a neighboring inlet much interested him 
by the Innuit tradition with which it was connected. Ou-e-Ms story 
was that, years before, two little girls while playing about this cliflF, 
with infants in hoods on their backs, had gone into an opening between 
the rocks, which closed upon them before escape was possible. All 
attempts for rescue were unsuccessful, and the poor children, to whom 
for a time bread and water were passed, perished in the cliff. 

On the 8th, Hall found himself back at his tenting-ground at the 
twenty-sixth encampment, near Dr. Rae's "Forlorn Hope" — Fort Hope. 



Febraarr, 1866.) 



Visit to Fort Hope. 



223 




'-'* ft. wide. 



30 ft. Jou^- 



'^^^^^!^i'->^^ 



THE RENT CUFF. 



On setting out in the morning, all Now-yarn had turned out to bid him 
" ter-hou-ee-tie^ — a hearty good-bye. He left the kindly advice with 
Ou-e-la to be sure to send for him if any of the people were sick. 

With his own Eskimos, and Ar- 
mou and Mam-mark, he made the joiu*- 
ney by four o'clock in the afternoon, 
the sledges being heavily loaded, and 
he himself preferring to pace the whole 
distance, carefully counting every 
fourth step. As soon after their ar- 
rival as new igloos were built, refresh- 
ments were served up, including a lit- 
tle brandy of such proof that it 
remained unfrozen at 50^ below zero, 
eschewed the favorite muk-tuJc, the brandy, and the smoking. Mam- 
mark having recently lost her wing-er (husband), and Too-koo-li-too's 
child being less than a year old. When Hall took his brandy, even 
after breathing for some time upon the flask, he was burned from 
mouth to stomach as by a stream of fire-coals ; — impressing him ever 
after with the necessity of being as wise in first taking the frost out 
of the liquid as he was in taking it out of the nose of the flask. 

The next day, having occasion to visit Fort Hope, he was struck 
with its exposed position, and his notes express an admiration of Dr. 
Rae's ability as the leader of an expedition, for having wintered his 
party of 1846 within its gloomy mud and stone walls without the 
loss of a man. Mam-mark and others now spoke of their friends hav- 
ing seen Dr. Rae at Pelly Bay, as well as at Fort Hope. They knew 
Oo-lig-huck, Rae's guide, under the name Mar-ko, and among other 



The fair sex of the company 



224 Difficulties with the Innuits. [March, ism. 

things which they related of this man, was the story that he became 
much alarmed by the accounts from the Iwillik people of the fierce 
and deceitful Neitchille tribe, and for this reason he had tried to 
desert Rae, but without success. 

During the rest of the month of February and throughout March, 
Hall was quite willing to have for his companions the few only who 
had returned with him from Now-yarn. He needed rest from the fre- 
quency of visitations to his igloo, and quiet for maturing his plans for 
the spring sledge journey ; but especially, relief from the misunder- 
standings and alienations occurring not infrequently at the village. It 
is easy to see that any estrangement from those on whom he as the 
only white man was dependent, and at times helplessly so, must have 
caused him much disquiet, beyond even the connection of this with 
the success of his plans. Some personal misunderstandings with 
Ou-e-la (the chief) and with Ar-mou, and others, had more than once 
occurred ; and at one time he seems to have had good reason to 
believe that his life was in danger. But his control over the people 
continued to be strangely successful, and it so remained up to the 
close of the expedition. 

The chief means of this success is readily to be inferred from the 
course of the narrative up to this date. From the time of his first 
meeting with the Innuits he had reciprocated the cordiality of their 
simple off'erings, and had subjected himself to a conformity with their 
strange customs; he had ministered to their necessities in sickness, 
supplying both food and fuel ; and had held out to them just expecta- 
tions of further assistance from the whalers, and from his friends in the 
United States. His chief dependence for the needed control over them 
was in his supply of tobacco, often freely given as a present, but as a 



SKETCH OF COAST LINES 

FllOM FT. CHFRClllLL 
TO l.ANCASTEIl SOUND 

Bv Ai'-niou in lUliti. 







ay 




March, 1886.] Conttol of the Innuits. 225 

rule, dealt out as rations in exchange for provisions. When for two 
days he held out in a refusal to serve out this to Ar-mou (the Wolf), a 
personal contest was nearly brought on. " The savage," after several 
angry conferences with his fellows, again and again demanded the 
coveted weed; but even when he approached Hall to lay hold on him, 
he received the firm answer, ^'■Ar-moii keeps his muk-tuk, Hall keeps 
his tobacco." This self-control seems to have had as much to do with 
closing the affair amicably, as any assistance that Ebierbing and Too- 
koo-li-too could render. 

Other alienations had now shown themselves by the separa- 
tion from him of the rest of the Innuits, and by their withhold- 
ing from him their old gifts and even some of his own supplies, 
which might have been brought when he was known to be in need, 
from the whale cached in August ; to say nothing of their forgetful- 
ness to keep for him his accustomed place at the feasts. It is cer- 
tainly creditable to Hall that he could ex:ercise such self-control, and 
make full allowance for the circumstances in which he was placed, and 
in which he steadfastly purposed to abide. Some things he knew that 
he must probably misunderstand. His own determined purpose he 
could not. In despite of these adverse circumstances, he had not been 
without renewed encouragements. The leading men of the tribe had 
come and talked with him about his journey before he went over to 
Now-yarn, and when good humor prevailed there, had repeatedly 
entered into his plans, and committed themselves and their people to 
his assistance Ar-mou completed for him a chart of the waters 
and lands he had voyaged and traveled over in his lifetime. "It 
embraced a section of country from Pond's Bay (say in lat. 73° N., 
long. 76° W.) to Fort Churchill (lat. 58° 44' N., long. 94° 14' W.) ; 

the distance between the two places in a direct line being 966 nauti- 
S. Ex. 27 15 



226 Ready to Move. [March, isee. 

cal miles (by middle latitude sailing* 965.8 ; by Mercator, 959.8)." 
The coast which this native delineated, and with most of which he 
was well acquainted, exceeded six times this distance. With all the 
indentations of the coast from Ig-loo-lik to Repulse Bay, and thence 
to Fort Churchill, he still was familiar, except the further or most 
westerly extent of Chesterfield Inlet. He had been on Southampton 
Island twice ; the first time drifting there on the ice while walrusing in 
the winter. From his map and from others drawn by natives, par- 
ticularly from the sketch of Lyon's Inlet, to be found in a later part of 
this Narrative, Hall received valuable assistance on his subsequent 
journeys. 

The occupations of the quiet stay at Fort Hope had included the 
selecting and preparing the necessary provisions and stores, and putting 
them up in convenient packages encased in strong bags of India-rubbei* 
cloth ; such as could not be carried away being either cached or cov- 
ered over in the Sylvia, which was secured from exposure. For Hall's 
personal comfort, Mam-mark made him a pair of kod-lins, or breeches, 
from the Siberian squirrel-furs presented to him the preceding season 
by his friend Captain Kilmer. 

On the 30th of March, I-vi-tuk came merrily down to Fort Hope, 
with all the dogs belonging to See-gar and Ar-goo-moo-too-lik, to assist 
Hall on his proposed journey north. These teams, with some dogs 
which had been left with him by his friend Ou-e-la, were the best prac- 
tical assurances of good feeling renewed with his old friends. During 
the winter he had almost despaired of securing a team, and his own 
stock consisted of but " two female dogs, equal to one good dog, and 
two puppies, equal to a quarter of a good dog." He had been unable 
to obtain others at a lower price than a double-barreled gun for each. 



march, 1866.] Beadj/ foT King Williamh Land. 227 

I-vi-tuJc's coming enabled him to anticipate the day for the move 
toward Neitchille. Now-yarn had been abandoned by the scattering 
of the people to hunt and fish ; Ou-e-la, for this object, was already 
upon the lakes. 

Hall was ready to leave all the people in full good humor. He 
presented them with venison, and gave to the men letters to the 
expected whalers, in which he asked that such reasonable requests as 
might be made for ammunition and provisions should be granted ; 
the compensation for these he expected would be made to the whalers 
by his two chief friends in the United States. 

He had now a goodly party ready for the forward move, having 
only the regret that the women and children must accompany them. 
It may be questioned, however, whether his efforts to prevent this had 
been wise ; nor did the sequel show that the women were really an 
incumbrance. 



The METEOROLOGICAL NOTES kept in the winter quarters 
are of interest. The changing temperatures experienced during this 
second winter of seven months will be appreciated by the following 
quotations from some specific dates within that period : 

The first snow of the season fell September 9 ; an inch only in depth ; it 
assisted the hunters in tracking deer. Ice formed on the bay and river for the 
first time on the 12th of the month following. The canvas tents becomiug un- 
comfortable, kom-tnongs protected the party until they found enough snow on the 
29th to build their igloos, and were driven into them by the sudden occurrence 
of severe storms. 

The snow-drift of this date prompted Hall to say : 
I defy any man to make true observations of the number of inches of snow 
that falls on an average during the winter in the Arctic Regions. Drift and 



228 Meteorological Notes Buring the Winter. 

falling snow are all intermingled, and both are swept along over the earth at a 
speed that, sometimes I think, should take them round the great globe in forty 
minutes. Ofttimes the shrewdest natives cannot tell whether it is simply drift 
flying or both falling snow and drift. 

The weather at times during November was so warm that the 
roofs of the igloos needed rebuilding. Repeated applications of new 
blocks were made to the places from which the melted snow was 
dripping. 

The 22d of January, 1866, was a hurricane day. Within the igloos 
buried deep under the drift, the howling of the storm was heard through- 
out the night. The women, rising first as usual, cleared the passage- 
way, and came back from its mouth to tell of the tempest. At nine 
o'clock Hall attempted to go outside to make his observations, but as 
he stepped beyond the wind-proof wall of snow-blocks which shielded 
the entrance-way to the tunnel, he was instantly knocked heels over 
head. On raising his head, for one instant he saw the snow flying; the 
next, he was blinded; but by little and little he worked himself, directly 
in the eye of the hurricane, till he struck on what he knew to be one 
of the snow-walls of the tunnel. He says that ''the whole world 
around seemed one mighty snow-drift, and if he had any conscious- 
ness at all, it was that he felt as though he were in chaos. Heaven 
had his first thanks, and the Iimuit who built that snow-wall his 
second." 

On the 10th of February a hurricane prevailed all day, charged 
with a temperature of — 40°. At one time, one of the dogs was found 
entirely buried under the drift, his line being too short to let him keep 
upon the surface. When released he was a happy dog ; even before 
eating, " brisk as a cricket." 



AHrora.<i. 229 

Auroras were of frequent occurrence throughout the winter, except 

during the month of January. More than once, on witnessing them, 

Hall finds the question arising in his mind — 

Why is it that the aurora is almost always seen in the southern heavens "?* 
Why do we not see the same north of us ? I have seen the aurora at Wager 
Bay, at Koo-wook, at Depot Island, and from various places about Eepulse Bay, 
and almost uniformly the i)henomena is seen southerly of the point wherever I 
happeued to be. The same was true in my previous voyage (1860-'62) — that the 
aurora was seen south. In this connection I would state that from all I have 
been able to learn in the many close observations I have made during their dis- 
plays, the aurora is generally not far distant — ofttimes within a few hundred feet — 
and continues within a stone's-throw of one's head. If an army of men were 
close together in line, and extended from here to York Factory, I am sure each 
man would see the auroral displays all south of him ; and yet the most distant 
displays would not exceed ten or fifteen miles, while the most would be within a 
half to three miles of him. 

On November 7 the rays of an aurora shot horizontally to the 
eastward, in the direction of the magnetic meridian. At 7 p. m. of the 
10th, a thin auroral veil covered the sky, lasting twenty minutes. 

On the 6th of February, the passage-way of Hall's igloo was 

flooded with the light of an aurora. On going out, he saw — 

A long belt, extending far east-southeast and far west-northwest, the center 
of it a trifle south, but apparently within a pistol-shot. The rays were all vertical, 
and dancing right merrily. This whole belt was remarkably low down — that is, 
apparently not more than 50 or 75 feet from the earth — and along the base of it, 
from end to end, was one continuous stream of prismatic fires, which, with the 
golden rays of light jetting upward and racing backward and forward — some 
dancing merrily one way, while others did the same from the opposite direction — 
made one of the most gorgeous, sonl-inspiring displays I ever witnessed. The 
Inniiits, nearly the wliole of whom witnessed the grand sight, kept up, as they 
always do on such occasions, their charming music — that is, whistling. The dis- 
play lasted but a few minutes. 

* Between the parallel of 50 degrees north and that of 62 degrees north, auroras during the 
winter are seen almost every night. They appear high in the heavens, and as often to the south 
as to tlio north. In regions further north they are seldom seen except in the south. Loomis, p. 187. 



230 



Auroras. 



The following night something of a like display was witnessed. 
A single streak of aurora shot up from the south, and in a few 
moments the whole horizon was alive with the dancing fires of the 




nfi 




AUUOKA SKETCHED BY HALL. 

nortli. On the 19tli there was a disjilay of aurora, upon which the 
wind had no apparent effect, although a gale was bloAving. 

On the 10th of March— 

A Avondroiis display stretclied across the southern hesivens from east-south- 
east to west soutli west. The eastern half was in the form of an arch with verti- 



Auroras. 231 

cal rays, while the western lialf was convolved in such vast glowing circles that 
nearly a quarter of the heaveus seemed on fire. The eastern half consisted of 
bosses or birch broomheads, springing into life and dancing merrily to and fro 
along the vertex of the highest rays forming the arch ; to each broomhead was a 
complete nucleus, well defined, about which the rays, inclined about 45° to the 
east, played most fantastically. One was quite alone in its glory, for not only had 
it the embellishments of its sister broomheads, but golden hair radiated from its 
head in all directions. 

[With Hall's notes it may be interesting to compare those made 
by Lieutenant Weyprecht, of the Austrian ship Tegetthoff, while wit- 
nessing the auroras of the Eastern Hemisphere.] 

There in the souths low on the horizon, stands a faint arch of light. It looks 
as if it were the upper limit of a dark segment of a circle; but the stars which 
shine through it in undiminished brilliancy, convince us that the darkness of the 
segment is a delusion produced by contrast. Gradually the arch of light grows 
in intensity and rises to the zenith. It is perfectly regular; its two ends almost 
touch the horizon and advance to the east and west in proportion as the arch 
rises. 'No beams are to be discovered in it, but the whole consists of an almost 
uniform light of a delicious tender color. It is transparent white, with a shade 
of light green not unlike the pale green of a young plant which germinates in 
the dark. The light of the moon appears yellow, contrasted with this tender 
color so pleasing to the eye, and so indescribable in words, a color which nature 
appears to have given only to the Polar regions hj way of compensation. The 
arch is broad, thrice the breadth, perhaps, of the rainbow, and its distinctly 
marked edges, are strongly defined on the profound darkness of the Arctic 
heavens. The stars shine through it with undiminished brilliancy. The arch 
mounts higher and higher. An air of repose seems spread over the whole phe- 
nomenon; here and there only a wave of light rolls slowly from one side to the 
other. It begins to grow clear over the ice; some of its groups are discernible. 
The arch is still distant from the zenith ; a second detaches itself from the dark 
segment, and this is gradually succeeded by others. All now rise toward the 
zenith ; the first passes beyond it, then sinks slowly toward the northern horizon, 
and as it sinks, loses its intensity. Arches of light are now stretched over the 
whole heavens; seven are apparent at the same time on the sky, though of infe- 
rior intensity. The lower they sink toward the north, the paler they grow, till 
at last they utterly fade awaj' . Often they all return over the zenith, and become 



232 Auroras in the Eastern Hemisphere. 

extinct just as tbey came. * * * g^f^ again, another form. Bands 
of every possible form and intensity have been driving over the heavens. It is 
now 8 o'clock at night, the hour of the greatest intensity of the northern lights. 
For a moment some bundles of rays only are to be seen in the sky. In the south 
a faint, scarcely-observable band lies close to the horizon. All at once it rises 
rapidly and spreads east and west. The waves of light begin to dart and shoot; 
some rays mount toward the zenith. For a short time it remains stationary, then 
suddenly springs to life. The waves of light drive violently from east to west; 
the edges assume a deep red and green color, and dance up and down. The rays 
shoot up more rapidly; they become shorter; all rise together and approach 
nearer and nearer to the magnetic pole. It looks as if there were a race among 
the rays, and that each aspired to i^each the pole first. And now the i^oint is 
reached, and they shoot out on every side, to the north and the south, to the 
east and the west. Do the rays shoot from above downward or from below 
upward "? Who can distinguish ? From the center issues a sea of flames ; is that 
sea red, white, or green? Who can say — it is all three colors at the same 
moment ! The rays reach almost to the horizon ; the whole sky is in flames. 
Nature displays before us such an exhibition of fire-works as transcends the 
powers of imagination to conceive. Involuntarily we listeu : such a spectacle we 
think must be accompanied with sound. But unbroken stillness prevails; not 
the least sound stiikes on the ear. Once more it becomes clear over the ice, and 
the whole phenomenon has disappeared with the same inconceivable rapidity 
with Avhich it came, and gloomy night has again stretched her dark veil over 
everything. This was the aurora of the coming storm — the aurora in its fullest 
splendor. No pencil can draw it, no colors can paint it, and no words can describe 
it in all its magnificence. And here below stand we poor men and speak of 
knowledge and progress, and pride ourselves on the understanding with which 
we extort from Natx;re her mysteries. We stand and gaze on the mystery which 
Natirre has written for us in flaming letters on the dark vault of night, and idti- 
mately we can only wonder and confess that, in truth we know nothing of it. He 
who has seen its phenomenon in its full splendor, when in the vast silence the 
entire vault of heaven seems to consume in flames of intense colors, when streams 
of fire, furious and frantic, in wild chase all around, rush upward to the zenith, 
he who has observed the excitement which in such moments manifests itself in 
the elements of Terrestrial magnetism — to him it must become a life task to aid 
in removing the thick veil whi(?h shrouds this mysterious exhibition of Nature's 
power. Although in most intimate connection with the disturbances of Terres- 



Anrorafi in the Eosiern Hemisphere. 2fJ3 

trial magnetism aud utterly inseijarable from it, still it is out of our power to 
discern the liuks which chain them together. Theory after theory has been pro- 
posed, but none is adequate; the obscurity which lowers over this indescribable 
phenomenon is as intense to-day as a hundred years ago. ("New Lands within 
the Arctic Circle.") 



p 



HAPTEI^ yill' 



FIRST ADVANCE TOWARD KING WILLIAM'S LAND- 
SLEDGE JOURNEY TO COLVILE BAY AND RETURN. 

MARCH 31 TO MAY 25, 11566 



I 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Start for King William's Land March 31 — Hall's companions — His exposure — Walks be- 
hind THE SLEDGES— Gale-bound — Innuit legends of the wolf and the bear — An- 

KOO-TING for ToO-KOO-LI-TOO'S SICK INFANT — TTnCERTAINTY OF THE GUIDES — DR. Rae's 
chart FOLLOWED — LETTERS SENT BACK TO THE WHALERS — TARDINESS OF THE NATIVES — 
EENEWED AN-KOO-TING for THE CHILD — FURTHER DELAYS — ICING OF THE SLEDS RE- 
NEWED — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee reached on the twenty-eighth day of a journey, 

ONCE MADE BY EaE IN FIVE DAYS — MEETING WITH NATIVES FROM PeLLY BaY — THEIR AC- 
COUNTS OF Franklin's ships — Relics obtained from them — Intimidation of Hall's 

MEN BY these NATIVES — HaLL COMPELLED TO RETURN FROM COLVII.E BaY — LEAVES A 

deposit AT Cape Weynton for his next journey — Buries Too-koo-li-too's child, 
"Little King William" — Arrives at Beacon Hill May S;? — The Innuits agree to go 

BACK the next YEAR. 

The first page of the Note-Book for the last day of March, 1866, 
has on its face, in bold writing, ^^ Now for King WilUamh Land! Up at 
4 a. m. and getting ready for a starts 

The wind was fresh from the north-northwest, and the tempera- 
ture "50 degrees below frost-point," yet Hall decided to make his first 
advance of five miles as far as Ou-e-Ia's resting-place on North 
Pole Lake, and from that point to send forward two sledge-loads of 
stores, after which, before setting out finall}^ on his journey, he would 
make a safe deposit of his records at the base of Beacon Hill on its 
northeast side. Ebierbing, Ar-mou, Nu-her-zlwo^ young She-nnk-sJwo 
and his mother, with Too-koo-li-too and the families of Ar-mou and 

237 



238 Hall Sets Out in a Gale. [March, isee. 

Nu-ker-zhoo, made up his party. He remained behind for a Httle 
while to compare his chronometers, and, after "rendering thanks for 
(his) innumerable blessings, to ask protection on departing for a country 
where dangers would be found on every hand." Following the tracks 
of the sledges as well as he could trace them through the increasing 
drift, he soon overtook his party. All the other natives who had been 
at this time at the encampment had now gone off in different direc- 
tions, some toward Now-yarn and others to the lakes. 

The gale became very severe, beating fiercely and directly in the 
face of one who was poorly prepared to bear it from his having eaten 
little or no food for several days. In writing of this, he says there 
had been before him an abundance of such as he would have relished 
if he could relish anything ; but he had been so busy in writing and 
so enwrapped in anxieties that he had little or no appetite. 

Let one who has had the like experience as mine, with no other people but 
savages to deal with, say whether my task has been an enviable one during all 
the time of making every due arrangement and preparation for this journey. 
The labor of the writing I have done, without speaking of anything else, has been 
enough to kill many a man, and has nearly killed me. 

Coming up with the sledges, he now lunched on raw frozen 
venison with the voracious appetite which the cold gale had created; 
and on finding that Ar-mou had harnessed himself beside his four 
dogs, placed himself at the rear of the sledge, helping it forward by 
constantly following up and pushing. Holding his head low down, 
lie was sheltered from the sharp wind by the load on the sled. Before 
midday they were all met by Ou-e-la with sick wife (No. 1), coming 
down the river in haste to be doctored. Igloos were built, and twent}^- 
one persons turned in hastily for shelter. The position was found 
to be lat. 66° 34' 18" N., long. 86° 57' 15" W. There was no anxiety 



April, 1866.] Sickness Believed. 239 

for food, as besides their sled-loads several abundant deposits were 
still near them, and a band of eleven deer made their appearance on 
the river-bank. The time for sealing also was at hand. Hall's own 
abstinence and anxieties had made him more than usually susceptible 
to cold, so that he was not surprised to find his face frequently frost- 
bitten on this journey of less than three miles. Tuk-too, Ar-mou's 
wife No. 2, drew the frost out by applying the warmth of her hand 
as often as the bite showed itself Woman-like, she had fallen in the 
rear of the party, to help him if he should be in need. 

Through the next day and the two which followed, all were com- 
pletely storm-bound within the igloos, and both the wife of Ou-e-la and 
Too-koo-li-too's babe, "Little King William," became, as they thought, 
dangerously ill. Hall treated each case with a dose of phodophyllin 
and asclepin; and Ou-e-la, who had been fearing now a second time 
the loss of the companion and guide of his travels, was again happy. 

While snow-bound. Hall learned from him, among other facts 
belonging to Arctic animal life, that April is the moon for the birth of 
the young seal ; May for that of the ook-gooh and the musk-ox ; June 
for the deer and the walrus, and July for the eider-duck. He found 
also that the Innuits make no attempt to domesticate such animals as 
the wolf or the deer, from the belief that to do so would bring death 
to the tribe.* He had a curious account of the hardening process 
applied to the Kin-na-pa-too dogs, who eat very little, and yet keep in 
good order and do much service. This is said to be in consequence of 

• As exceptions to this in individual cases, the two following stories are found in Hall's 
notes : 

THE TAMED WOLF. 

The mother of Nu-ker-zhoo once captured a very young wolf, of which she took the greatest 
care, feeding it with the choicest food she could secure, and sharing with it her hed. She hoped 
it would become a large and powerful animal, and yet remain tractable and more serviceable 



240 Innuit Traditions. i April, isoe. 

their being- fed when young but once a week, being thus kept very 
poor ; when full grown, they endure all manner of hardship and hold 
their own. The IwilHk people, in hard times, fed their dogs once 
a week. 

While he was busily writing in the hut, happening to have in his 
hand a long knife, Ou-e-la told him that the Neitchille men and See- 
nee men had many such knives, made out of very long, thick, and 

than a dog, and would cateli deer for her. Unfortunately, when it was half grown, the dogs dis- 
covering that their playmate was a different animal and an enemy, pounced upon him and tore 
him to pieces. 

THE BEAE STORY. 

[A tradition credited by all the Innuits from above Cumberland Gulf to Hudson's Straits, 
and from Ig-loo-lik to Chesterfield Inlet. ] 

Many moons ago, an Innuit woman obtained a polar bear cub but two or three days old. 
Having long desired just such a pet, she gave it her closest attention, as though it were a son, 
nursing it, making for it a soft warm bed alongside her own, and talking to it as a mother does 
to her child. She had no living relative, and she and the bear occupied the igloo alone. Koon- 
ilc-jooa, as he grew up, jiroved that the woman had not taught him in vain, for he early began 
to hunt seals and salmon, bringing them to his mother before eating any himself, and receiving 
his share from her hands. She always watched from the hill-top for his return, and if she saw 
that he had been unsuccessful, she begged from her neighbors blubber for his food. She learned 
how this was from her lookout, for if successful, he came back in the tracks made on going oiit, 
but if unsuccessful, always by a different route. Learning to excel the Inuuits in hunting, he 
excited their envy, and, after long years of faithful service, his death was resolved upon. On 
hearing this, the old woman, overwhelmed with grief, offered to give up her own life if they 
would but spare him who had so long supported her. Her ofi'er Avas sternly refused. Upon this, 
when all his enemies had retired to their igloos, the woman had a long talk with her son — now 
well grown in years — telhng him that wicked men were about to kill him, and that the only way 
to save his life and hers was for him to go off and not return. At the same time she begged him 
not to go so far that she could not wander off and meet him, and get from him a seal or some- 
thing else which she might need. The bear, after listening to what she said with tears stream- 
ing down her furrowed cheeks, gently placed one huge paw on her head, and then throwing both 
around her neck, said, "Good mother, Koon-ik-jooa will always be on the lookout for you and 
serve you as best he can." Saying this, he took her advice and departed, almost as much to the 
grief of the children of the village as to the mother. 

Not long after this, being in need of food, she walked out on the sea-ice to see if she could 
not meet her son, and soon recognized him as one of two bears who were lying down together. 
He ran to her, and she patted him on the head in her old familiar way, told him her wants, and 
begged him to hurry away and get something for her. Away ran the bear, and in a few moments 
the woman looked upon a terrible fight going on between him and his late companion, which, 
however, to her great relief, was soon ended by her son's dragging :i lifeless bodj' to her feet. 
With her pa ii-na (long knife) she quickly skiimed the dead bear, giving her son large slices of the 
blubber, and telling him that she would soon return for the meat which she could not at first 
carry to her igloo, and when her supply should again fail she would come back for his help. This 
she continued to do for "a long, long time," the faithful bear always serving her and receiving 
the same unbroken love of his youth. 



April, 1866.) HalTs Record-Deposit. 241 

heavy ones found he knew not where. In Hall's mind, these heavy- 
ones were, without doubt, obtained from the abandoned ships of 
Franklin's Expedition; but he shows a free readiness to receive such 
imjDressions. 

On the 3d, a Eecord of his work thus far done was deposited at the 
proposed point, the bearings of which were noted from a native stone 
monument 5 feet in height, and from the oven built by Dr. Rae, June 
23, 1847, for baking with heather the bread described in his Narra- 
tive. Ou-e-la promised to have care of the cache, and when he should 
remove to Oog-la-ri-your Island take the Record with him, to secure 
it from destruction in the summer by any visiting Pelly Bay or 
Neitchille natives. Parting from Hall next day to go south, he took 
the friendly word " Ter-hou-e-tie " to be passed to the whaling captains 
when they should arrive. The lunuits. Hall says, never say farewell. 

The sledges for North Pole Eiver now went forward loaded with 
heavy stores, and over all these Hall's cutlass, knife, compass, and 
medical book. The course was north 50° east. The sled of Oong-oo- 
too, who, with I-vit-uk, had now brought two small teams to join the 
party for a short journey, soon broke down; it was made of poles 
only, shod as usual with the fine-chopped moss and ice. Its load was 
placed upon the others and the dogs distributed among their teams 
A weight of about 500 pounds of whale-blubber and oil in seal-skins 
was then brought out from a deposit found on the road to Ou-e-Ja!s old 
igloo^ on arriving at which a comfortable meal was made on muk-tuk; 
the sledges were unloaded and re-iced. After some ineffectual shots fired 
into a band of twenty frightened deer, the next halt was made, for build- 
ing igloos on the ice of Dr. Rae's Christie Lake, lat. 6G ° 40' 45". The dis- 
tance made was inconsiderable, but the halt was chiefly for the sake of 

S. Ex. 27 IG 



242 An-lioo-ting. [Aphi, isee. 

the sick child, and the Innuits themselves said that ii was their habit 
to make short days' journeys at the firet, extend them from time to 
time, and make great distances toward the last. For a gain on the 
morrow, as soon as Nu-ker-^Jioo had spent his half-hour on his i^Ioo, he 
was sent off five miles up the lake, with a full team, to deposit a sledge 
load in advance. At (i.30 p. m., a beautiful parhelion appeared 22°. 5 
north side of the sun ; it showed prismatic colors : At 1^- 5™ the sun 
was disappearing behind the hills on the west side of the lake. Before 
the day closed, Hall noted that a rivulet of an eighth of a mile con- 
nects the lake with North Pole River, and, uniting two large sheets of 
water, forms an attractive spot for the deer. Its name is Koon-woo 
(the deer-pass). 

At this thirty-second encampment,* to his grievous disappoint- 
ment, he was detained until the 11th of the month by the continued 
illness of Too-koo-li-too's child. Concentrated medicine adminis- 
tered for pneumonia did not effect an improvement satisfactory to the 
mother ; and her Innuit friends very readily took occasion to recom- 
mend and to practice different forms of their own healing art by an- 
koo-ting. Three somewhat different trials of the art were made. On 
the 4th, the an-ge-lw put a leather strap around Ebierbing's head while 
lying on the bed, and when he occasionally pulled on this strap, the head 
came up, or it remained firmly down though the lifts were hard ; the 
raising of the head or its remaining steady indicated the different replies 
to the questions asked as to the future of the babe. On the 7th, the 
babe's health not having improved, Nu-ker-^hoo, as ''a newly-fledged 
an-ge-ko" entered on his work by putting the strap around the head of 
one of the women, and while propounding many questions to the Spirit, 

* For the route now traveled, see map for Chapter XIII ; the nioro successful jourucy nar- 
rated in that chapter l)ciu}; on the same route as far as Cajio Weynton. 



April, 1866.J An-Tcoo-ting with a Stone. 243 

brought up her head only when an affirmative reply Avas made. The 
third operation, on the 8th, is described by Hall as follows : 

Ifu-Tccr-zhoo bi'ougiit into our igloo from the laud a stone weighing 10 pounds ; 
then he made fast a string of ooh-goolc skin to the stone, and thus he was prepared 
for his witching work. I got on the bed-phitform, a deeply-interested spectator. 
The persons present were Nu-Tcer-zlioo, Ar-mou, Mam-mm% myself, Ebierbing, 
Too-koo-li-too, and their sick babe. Except Ar-mou, who stood on the floor, all 
were seated on the platform. The stone with which Nu-Tier-zlioo operated, rested 
on the bed beside him, and the string that encircled the stone was in both his hands, 
the hand nearest the stone being used as a kind of fulcrnm as well as for the 
lifting-power. It was by his side, and the string passed just above his lap to his 
right hand. The first proceedings were for Nu-Jcer-zhoo, on ha\Tiig the string in 
his hand, as above, to woo or call the Si)mt to the stone by calling out '■'■At-tee! 
At-teef^ many times; lifting each time on the stone to determine whether the 
Spirit responded. The others present occasionally joined in the same call. After 
two or three minutes spent in this way, to the willing eyes of Nu-l^er-zlwo the 
stone, despite of all pulls, became almost immovable by the Spirit pulling hard 
down on it, as the poor devotees to this absurd business believe. Tbis was the 
indication that the Spirit was willing and ready to answer any question that 
might be proposed. If the answer was no, the stone had no more than its natural 
weight; if yes, then Nu-'ker-zlioo labored hard to raise it the least hit. 

The object aimed at on each of these occasions was plainly enough 
indicated by some of the many questions which the Spirit answered. 
These were, "Should the child take any more of Hall's medicines'!" 
and, more pointedly, " Had Too-koo-li-too conformed to the customs 
of her people in her habits of daily life, food," &c.; or "on what 
conditions would the child's life be saved?" The answers to such 
questions as the two first of these were alwa3's strongly in the nega- 
tive; to the third it was, in substance, that if the mother should, for 
the space of five months, give up the use of such articles as bread and 
tea, or remain with Ou-e-la's people, the child would live; but if the 



244 Too-liooli-too Obeys the An-ge-ko. lAprii, isee. 

parents went forward with it to tlie Neitchille country, one of the three 
would die. 

So strong- had been the persuasions of the women of the party, 
and so fully under the power of their people's law were even Ebier- 
bing and Too-koo-li-too (although they had lived with Hall both 
in their own country and in the United States), that during this 
temporary failure of the power of his medicines, these parents gave 
themselves fully up to this superstition. His notes show how sin- 
cerely grieved he was at the risk to which this giving up of medicine 
was subjecting the child ; how tried in spirit he was at their degrading 
subjection, and yet how helpless he was to afford relief Too-koo- 
li-too, when almost persuaded to let the child again have relief, 
pleaded that she and her husband would be cursed by the Innuits; 
and told Hall plainly that if the an-ge-lio were not obeyed they would 
all desert him. The whole of this matter was still the more trying, 
because, although there were some singular phenomena for which Hall 
says he could no more account than for like things in the spirit-rap- 
pings in his own country, the actions of the an-ge-ko could generally 
as plainly be seen through as was his object; for on closely watching 
him, as in the process of the stone-lifting. Hall saw well enough that 
when the weight was about to be lifted with great difficulty Nii-ker-zJioo 
prepared himself beforehand for a strong pull, and as plainly did the 
opposite when it suited his purpose. " What was all this lifting fori 
To gratify the devil, who has been doing his evil work through the dark 
benighted minds of this truly savage people." Hall told Too-koo- 
li-too and Ebierbing that they must not mind the information pretended 
to be got out of a stone, and confidentially showed them the deception 
that Nu-ker-zlioo had practiced in lifting it and in the former lifts of the 



April, 1866.] Arrival at Christie Lake. 245 

heads, notwithstanding- which Ebierbing rewarded the a/i-ge-ko by- 
getting for him one of Hall's hand-saws and presenting him with his 
own gun. 

On the 15th the sledge parties arrived at the place marked on the 
map to be found in Chapter XIII, " Encampment 33 " The mother 
of the sick babe, " Little King William," had now been persuaded to 
permit the further "exliibiting" of medicines, and to trust Hall's judg- 
ment that the child would be in as fair way of recovery if borne in 
her hood on the sled as if kept in the snow house. The heavier loads 
being again pushed forward, the parties in charge made their next 
deposit on the crown of the land a little beyond the end of Christie Lake, 
and halted here, not knowing the route further toward Ak-koo-lee — 
Committee Bay. Mam-mark was looked to for their guide when they 
should resume their journey, as she alone knew the northern route. 
Hall believed that the point reached was the *' Flett" land of Dr. Rae; 
and from this point, if Mam-mark^s guidance failed, he could go for- 
ward safely by the aid of Rae's chart. At the Lower Narrows many 
deer had been seen, the spot being a famous one for the number of 
these animals, which, while crossing in their season from one sheet of 
water to the other, are speared by the Innuits from their ki-as. 

In letters written to Mr. Grinnell, Mr. Brevoort, and Captains 
Chapel, Kilmer, and White, Hall stated with care the places of his 
record-deposits, and what disposition he desired should be made of 
them if looked for ; adding that he must be absent from Repulse Bay 
till the following spring, and perhaps for another year. The records 
of his work at Repulse Bay would be found, as heretofore named, at 
the base of Beacon Hill ; those which he hoped to make on King 



246 Man-Lines to Help the Dogs. [Aprii, isee. 

William's Land would be at the points used by Lieutenant McClin- 
tock in the expedition of the Fox ; in general, they would be found at 
the end of a line 25 feet north from stone monuments which he would 
build. Oong-oo-too, Avho was now about to return to Repulse Bay, had 
special instructions to Ou-e-la to deliver these letters to any whale- 
ships which should come in ; and he, as well as I-vit-uk, were re- 
warded for their past services with all the tobacco which could be 
gathered from Hall's, Nu-ker-zhod's^ Ar-mou's, and Ebierbing's pocl jts. 

On the withdrawal of their teams, Hall was gratified to find that 
he still had three strong sledges and a team of eighteen dogs including 
two powerful old ones ; which would be enough for even the three 
usual daily trips — the advance, with its return, and the forward journey. 
Making an early start, with the wind and temperature in their favor, 
after a fair new advance, they made their usual repast on frozen veni- 
son, slaking their thirst through a hole chiseled 6 feet into the ice, 
over which the snow lay 18 inches deep. Having here an ascent to 
overcome, " man-lines " were prepared from ooJc-gook skin for harness- 
ing helpers to the dogs ; these were made fast to one of the sledge 
cross-bars, and as near the stern as possible, and were long enough to 
harness a man on each side of the head of the sled. Both .Mam-mark 
and Nu-ker-zlioo having forgotten at this point the northern route taken 
by them twelve years before, Hall chose the left of two routes open- 
ing toward Pelly Bay, believing that this was Dr. Rae's route. On 
the 1 3th, kept within their huts by a gale, the day was spent by the In- 
Innuits feasting and playing dominoes; in the evening Hall had renewed 
conversations with Nu-ker-zlioo and his wife about Franklin's Expedition. 

Delays increased. But little disposition was now found among 
the Innuits, or even in Ebierbing, to push on to King William's Land. 



April, i86e.] Delays. 247 

They feared that they would find no reindeer there, and that if they 
reached the place they would be compelled to return to Pelly Bay for 
the winter. Hall encouraged them to believe that they would be 
among a number of natives, and would find sufficient provision; but as 
no one of them could appreciate his chief object, he could gain upon them 
only by alternately showing determined resolve and next persuasion — 
the latter was of necessity the usual course. He resolved on spending 
as little time as possible in making astronomical observations or in 
writing. His notes of the day contain the expression of a purpose, that if 
even all the Innuits deserted him, he would go on with a sledge-team 
by himself; for he never could return to his country without accom- 
plishing something of the objects for which he had left his home. 
It may be remarked, in passing, that the sincerity of this record is 
confirmed by the fact that he not only might have returned in one of 
the whalers during the previous summer, but that he had been apprised 
by his friend Mr. Grinnell of the willingness of Captain Chapel now to 
look him up in Repulse Bay and bring him back. 

On the 14th he could easily have made ten miles had Nu-ker- 
zJioo and Ebierbing been any other than Innuits. In the night, how- 
ever, these friends proved their value in another way — by saving the 
dogs, his northern camels. Plunging, though unarmed with even a 
knife, into a pack of twenty-five devouring wolves, they frightened 
them off by shouts ; more than once the furious animals formed in line 
for a new attack. Delayed until 10 a. m. of the following morning by 
this night-watch against the wolves and by Nu-her-zhod' s renewing his 
an-koo-ting for Little King William, the sledges at last started forward, 
and made better progress through the day, although the wind fresh- 
ened to a gale from the north, and the run was made more difficult 



248 An-lioo-ting for the Babe Renewed. [aphi, tsec. 

by the recent fall of snow. At times, the teams were doubled up to 
ascend the hill, the change requiring but half a minute. When one 
of the drivers was found nearly exhausted by his peculiar Innuit 
urging of his dogs, Hall drove his team and gave him a small swig of 
Bourbon ; and by extending the gift later in the day to the other men, 
gained their willing travel of an additional hour. While passing over 
one of the lakes, SJte-nuJc-sJioo picked up a mass of reindeer-hair with a 
piece of the skin having fresh blood on it — a mark of the work of 
some of the very numerous wolves, whose tracks were all along the 
route. The thirty-fourth encampment was made at 4.47 p. m., the 
wind blowing a gale and the snow flying thickly. While they were 
building igloos. Hall himself succeeded in chiseling in thirty-five min- 
utes through ice 6 feet thick, and in one hour slaked his great thirst 
with " four quarts of glorious water." On their way they had passed 
the grave of the unfortunate Ar-too-a, who, as has been before noted, 
had been drowned in the lake the j^receding summer. The course 
during the day had been north 53° east, and the rate of travel had 
averaged two and a half miles an hour. Where they halted, a great 
number of Innuit stone-marks were found, set up to direct the bands 
of migrating deer across a narrow channel of the lake passed over. 
At night another furious wolf-attack was repelled. 

A new and tedious delay began on the 15th. The mother of the 
sick child, alarmed by its much-changed looks, again summoned her 
friends, and Nu-lcer-zlioo renewed his an-koo-ting, beginning this time 
by a solemn march with Ebierbing's double-barreled gun in hand, 
and uttering for some fifteen minutes along the passage-way the most 
vociferous cries. Within the igloo, on the full renewal of the stone- 
lifting feat, the replies of the Spirit through the an-ge-ko to the dis- 



April, 1S66.] The Babe Given Away. 249 

tressed mother were positive that the child would live ; and her belief 
in this was confirmed by its temporary revival from what had seemed 
to Hall when he looked on it in her hood, to be the presence of actual 
death. The confidence of the parents in his judgment, he thought, how- 
ever, was weakened by their remembering his having given them hope 
of the life of their child Too-Jce-Ii-le-ta (the Butterfly) not long before it 
died in New York in 1863. The an-ge-Jco renewed his positive assurances 
by the answers from the lifted head of the girl, TooJc-too, after he had 
completed his work with the stone. Two days after, the mother, in 
her despair and professed willingness to do anything to save life, pro- 
posed to fall in with the custom practiced by her own people of Cum- 
berland Inlet, which is, in such cases of extremity, to save life hi/ giving 
aivay the child to another person. Her own immediate connections on 
the inlet had been unfortunate in the loss of their children, but she 
remembered and related several cases in which, as her people thought, 
health had been in this way certainly restored. Whether it was by 
request or not does not appear, but Nu-ker-zhod's wife came to the 
igloo the same evening, and was witness to the clear answers through 
the again lifted head of Took-too that the babe must be given away the 
next morning. Too-koo-li-too had taken full share in the feat of the 
evening, contributing a peculiar wood-button to the an-ge-ko, who 
threw it rapidly down, first on one side and then on the other of Took- 
tod's head, dashing it finally against the igloo wall ; and she gave 
up the babe the next morning to the woman who had consented to 
receive it from her before the an-koo-ting began ; but, a day or two 
after, on Hall's telling Nu-ker-zhoo boldly and with fire in his words 
that the child must go back, another an-koo-ting restored it. The 
mother had suffered, too, for want of her babe at the breast, and the 



250 Uncertainty as to the Route. [April, isee. 

child had no nourishment except a piece of raw meat to suck. With 
but one exception, however, entreaties to resume the administering of 
medicine were refused up to the day of its release from its sufferings. 

On the morning of the 16th, Ebierbing and Hall climbed a hill 
300 feet above the lake, but were shut out from any clear sight of the 
sea to the north by the thickly-flying snow; they thought that through 
the spy-glass they could obscurely make out sea-ice. All along their 
route, tracks of the musk-ox were now plainly recognized by their 
stand-droppings, so much larger than those of the deer ; reindeer were 
seen, but the travelers had no weapons with them but long knives. 
The view from the hill took in lakelets in every direction ; the one on 
which they were encamped, was three-fourths of a mile in length, with an 
arm on the other side of the hill that seemed to extend itself to the sea; 
while the number of the lakes made it more difficult than ever to deter- 
mine whether they were really upon Dr. Eae's old route. Hall thought 
that a dozen different routes might be followed from Christie Lake to 
the Sea of Ak-koo-lee. 

On his return from the hill, he found that a puppy had capsized 
his artificial horizon, spilling all the mercury, and Mam-mark had not 
much improved the matter by gathering it from, the snow into a tin 
dish. Provoking as this was, he had to make the best of it, as a few 
days before he had done when the dogs fell to fighting while he was 
taking his meridian observations — the dogs, in the muss, knocking the 
horizon over and over. Such annoyances and worse ones, not unfre- 
quently occurring, he wished all the dogs in "Tophet"; yet he writes, 
they " are a blessing to an Arctic traveler. I hope some day to have 
their aid in getting to the North Pole." 

On the ITtli, another day was forced from him for rest by the 



April, 1S66.] The Sledge Capsized to Stop the Dogs. 251 

Innuits. Eighteen days had now passed without making an adA^ance 
of more than thirty-two miles to his present position, lat. 67° 4' N. ; 
but such delays as had been necessary on the score of humanity were 
not regretted. During this day, Ebierbing, who had seen Hall's tooth- 
pullers and heard him describe lancing the gums, drew out one of his 
own three-pronged molars, bleeding himself profusely by his four trials. 
On Hall's looking over his instruments, and taking out with them a 
couple of combination knife-fork-and-spoon articles. Mam-mark who 
saw them, told him that she had seen among the Innuits at Pelly Bay 
many forks, all of the same silver-like look, as well as many watches 
and chains. 

The day following, all the men, women, and children were break- 
fasted on bread and coffee; they once more made a start, the travel 
averaging two miles per hour, and by four o'clock, with difficulty, 
arrived at a place within two miles of the sea. While going down the 
hill to Salt Lake, the descent being at an angle of about 45°, and the 
loads heavy, all the dogs were detached and the sledges let go on their 
own hook. A little further on. Hall's sledge fell behind, the runners 
dragging heavily. In order to renew the shoeing, his driver and him- 
self filled their mouths with snow-water, which would again freeze 
while they were putting it on ; but She-nuk-shoo grunting out that he 
would lose his mouthful if even he cried out to the dogs to stop, they 
capsized the sledge to stop them. Five minutes later they were gliding 
over the snow as if over glass. A different kind of grunting, took-too- 
like, made by Nu-ker-zhoo, kept a band of deer following the sledge so 
closely for more than two miles that their eyes were plainly seen when 
they stopped to stare. He kept up with Hall, yet took time to make 
several shots, and killed a fine buck. 



252 Arrival at Cape Lady Pelly. [April, isee. 

By the 19th of the month, Hall had struck the rough ice of the sea of 
Ak-koo-lee, and, passing over one of its small arms, made his encamp- 
ment upon it. On the 20th, he measured a rough lunar distance to test 
the correctness of his dates, and confirmed them by comparison of this 
measurement with those given in the Nautical Almanac; he was unable 
to make any further advance on this day. The first headland met on 
resuming the journey on the 2 1st was a projecting point 100 feet in 
height. On the 22d, by meridian observations, he determined his lati- 
tude, and by comparison of four chronometers found his longitude to 
agree within 11' of that given on Dr. Rae's chart; the latitude agreed 
very well for the relative situations of Cape Lady Pelly and Point 
Hargrave. Making an effort to push his advance parties forward by 
longer journeys, of at least 25 miles per day, by saving the time 
usually spent in loading up and in building igloos, on the 23d he 
reached Cape Lady Pelly, and halted to discover how he might get 
round the point, as the ice was exceedingly rough. "Jagged and 
broken granite stones are in plenty here, where I suppose Dr. Rae 
made his advance deposits in 1854." 

The land a little further on was found to be very low, forming an 
inclined plane to the coast, interrupted by a short highland one mile 
distant from and parallel with it. As far as to Point S wanton, the 
coast-line was afterward found so low that it was difficult to tell whether 
they were on sea-ice or land ; the travel was upon the ice-foot, which 
was from 10 to 30 yards wide, on the outside of which were heavy 
masses of very rough ice from 50 to 200 yards in width, while the sea 
itself was covered with solid pack-ice. On the 24tli two doer, shot by 
Ebierbing and Ar-niou with Hall's favorite rifle, were added to the 
loads on the sleds. The older one had antlers 18 inches long, which, 



April, 1866.1 Fast Driving. 253 

being a female, she had not shed. She was found with young the size 
of a rabbit; this the Innuits forbade to be taken from her. Partridges 
white as snow, rabbits, and a number of snow-birds were seen. On the 
25th they halted on the ice, in three igloos, and Hall congratulated him- 
self that he had that day advanced the whole company and stores 17 
miles; to accomplish which, however, he had made 60 miles, taking 
in all the advance and return trips necessar}^ for forwarding the stores. 

But the next two days were again lost. The Innuits pleaded that 
they must go on a musk-ox hunt, and on Hall's consenting to this for 
one day, they next pleaded that the first day of halt must be one of 
rest. On the day following, they failed in their hunt, and would not 
turn aside to secure the deer which were close by. Hall, not willing 
to be unoccupied, made a side journey to bring up his deposits ; but 
he was obliged to take the reins into his own hands from the im- 
petuosity of his young driver, She-nuk-shoo, who had whipped the 
dogs so incessantly as to keep them jumping over one another, so 
that in five minutes the lines became woven and interwoven up to 
the heels of the hindmost dogs — a very unusual occurrence. With 
much less whipping. Hall secured as fair speed. On the next day 
he worked up his observations and obtained from his men the prom- 
ise of greater haste. Nu-her-zhoo told him they ought to reach Pelly 
Bay, still 80 miles distant, in three days. 

On the 27th, the fresh provisions being nearly exhausted, the 
whole party breakfasted on coffee and pemmican; at a late hour, only 
a load of stores was pushed forward by Ebierbing and Nu-ker-ahoo. 
Returning at 10.30 p. m., Ebierbing reported that these had been 
deposited at a point which, as well as he could make it out by Dr. 
Rae's chart, was close by Cape Weynton, on the south side of Colvile 



254 Feeding the Dogs. [Aphi, isee. 

Bay. Hall was here forced to remember that Dr. Rae in 1 854 had made 
the same journey from Fort Hope in five days, liis party dragging 
their own provisions without even the aid of a dog. It had now cost 
himself twenty-eight days with the help of his teams. All the Innuits 
believed, however, that Rae must have found the ice on the sea of 
Ak-koo-lee much smoother, or it would have been impossible for him to 
travel so far out from the coast-line. 

The dogs not having been fed for five days, a 40-pound piece of 
whale-beef was now cut up and huttered for them with ooJc-gook blub- 
ber and seal-oil. They were then put in one by one into an abandoned 
igloo, while Mammark stood inside, club in hand, to beat off all but the 
one to be fed, and to pound him out when Hall had fed him. A short 
time before, Ar-mou had nearly killed one of his best dogs by throw- 
ing a hatchet at him for stealing, and to recover this hatchet which 
had been left behind, and a wood-button used by the an-ge-ko, had 
cost Hall some of the provoking delays of the journey. 

On the 28th no advance was made. The march would have been 
resumed northward and westward despite of a severe gale, but Too- 
koo-li-too was entirely broken down by the continued watching of her 
child. After a serious talk with both parents, they once more per- 
mitted it to take medicine while in an epileptic fit — "two drops of 
viratum viride and one-half grain of asclepin." The day following, 
the wind being fresh from north-northwest and the temperature 40° 
below freezing-point, three miles per hour (two and a half on direct 
course) were made within the hours from 9.40 a. m. to 6.20 p. m., two 
stoppages being needed to disentangle the dog-lines. Two small 
streams were passed, which emptied into the sea of Ak-koo-lee. The 
travel was mostly on the coast-line ice, the coast itself and the hilly 



April, i8««.j Meeting ivith Natives from Pelhj BaTf. 255 

land running parallel with it being a plain lowland of from half a 
a mile to one mile in width. Cape Weynton was soon on their lar- 
board beam, bearing due west, and distant half a mile. The cape is 
not more than 50 feet in height. 

A new era in the history of this sledge journey now opened. As- 
cending a berg 30 feet above the level of a floe to prospect the best 
route across Colvile Bay, Hall, with Ar-mou and She-nuk-sJwo, caught 
sight of four strange Innuits who appeared to be sealing some three 
miles to the northeast. The sight occasioned some excitement, for, 
while there was every reason to establish friendly intercourse with 
these men, in order to obtain further information bearing upon the 
main objects of his expedition. Hall had his apprehension that if these 
should prove to be See-neem-e-utes, ho would need to be cautious in 
every movement. He quickly unloaded one sledge and sent it back, 
with all the dogs, to hasten up the rest of his party ; they arrived at 2 
p m. But Nu-ker-zhoo^ watching with a spy-glass the movements of 
these strange Innuits, felt sure that he recognized old friends. Hall's 
party going forward, therefore, arrived at 9.50 p. m. (sunset), at the 
snow village of the strangers, and made their fortieth encampment 
alongside of them on the ice of the sea, three miles from the coast and 
near Cape Beaufort. The next morning, no sooner was HalFs igloo 
imsealed than it was filled with new faces. 

KoJc-lee-arng-nUn, their head man, showed two spoons which had been 
given to him by Ag-loo-Jca (Crozier), one of them having the initials F. 
R M. C. stamped upon it. His wife, Koo-narng, had a silver watch-case. 
This opened up the way for immediate inquiries. Through Too-koo-li- 
too who as usual soon proved a good intrepreter, it was learned that 
these Innuits had been at one time on board of the ships of Too-loo-ark, 



256 FranJdin and Crozier Described. [aphi, isee. 

(the great Esh-e-mut-ta, Sir John Franklin), and had their tupiks on the 
ice alongside of him during the spring and summer. They spoke of 
one ship not far from Ook-kee-bee-jee-lua (Pelly Bay), and two to the 
westward of Neit-tee-lik, near Ook-goo-lik. Koh-lee-arng-nun was " a 
big boy when very many men from the ships hunted tooJc-too. They 
had guns, and knives with long handles, and some of their party hunted 
the took-too on the ice ; killing so many that they made a line across the 
whole bay of Ook-goo-lik." The Pelly Bay men described the JEsh-e- 
mut-ta as an old man with broad shoulders, thick and heavier set than 
Hall, with gray hair, full face, and bald head. He was always wear- 
ing something over his eyes (spectacles, as Too-koo-li-too interpreted 
it), was quite lame, and appeared sick when they last saw him. He 
was very kind to the lunuits; — always wanting them to eat something. 
Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) and another man would go and do everything that 
Too-loo-ark told them, just like boys ; he was a very cheerful man, 
always laughing ; everybody liked him — all the kdb-lu-nas and all the 
Innuits. Kok-lee-arng-nun showed how Too-loo-ark and Ag-loo-ka used 
to meet him. They would take hold of his hand, giving it a few warm 
and friendly shakes, and Too-loo-ark would say, ^^Ma-my-too-mig-teg-ma." 
Ag-loo-ka's hand-shaking was short and jerky, and he would only say, 
^^Man-nig-too-mey "After the first summer and first winter, they saw 
no more of Too-loo-ark; ih^n Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) was the TJsh-e-mut-ta J' 
The old man and his wife agreed in saying that tlie ship on board 
of which they had often seen Too-loo-ark Avas overwhelmed with heavy 
ice in the spring of the year. Wiiile the ice was slowly crushing it, 
the men all worked for their lives in getting out provisions; but, before 
they could save much, the ice turned the vessel down on its side, 
crushing the masts and breaking a hole in her bottom and so over- 



April, 1866.] Reported Visits hy Innuits to Franklin's Ships. 257 

whelming her that she sank at once, and had never been seen again. 
Several men at work in her could not get out in time, and were carried 
down with her and drowned. " On this account Ag-loo-Tca^s company 
had died of starvation, for they had not time to get the provisions out 
of her." Ag-loo-ka and one other white man — the latter called "Nar- 
tar,^^ a pee-ee-tu (steward) — started and went toward Oot-koo-ish-ee-lee 
(Great Fish or Back's River), saying they were going there on their 
way home. That was the last they saw of them, but heard of them 
some time after from a Kin-na-pa-too, who said he and his people 
heard shots or reports of guns of strangers somewhere near Chester- 
field Inlet. On getting the Innuits to try to pronounce the word 
" doctor," they invariably said *' nar-tar^ This made Hall think that 
the white man with Ag-loo-ha was some one called '* doctor" — perhaps 
Surgeon Macdonald, of Franklin's ship, the Erebus. 

The other ship spoken of as seen near Ook-goo-lik was in com- 
plete order, having three masts and four boats hanging at the davits — 
whale-ship like. For a long time the Innuits feared to go on board ; 
but on the report by one of them that he had seen one man on the 
vessel alive, many of the natives visited it, but saw nothing of the 
man. They then rummaged everywhere, taking for themselves what 
they wanted, and throwing overboard guns, powder, ball, and shot. 

At an interview with the mother of Too-shoo-art-thar-iu whose son 
saw Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) on the island of Ook-goo-lik, Hall was told 
that during the previous summer or winter, the Innuits of Ook-goo-lik 
had found two boats with dead Jcoh-lu-nas in them — the boats on 
sledges ; and that In-nooh-poozh-e-jook had one of them. 

The several interviews from which the accounts here given have 

been collated were deeply interesting to Hall. They were held in the 
S. Ex. 27 17 



258 



Discouraging News. 



I April, 1866. 



presence of his two steadfast friends as interpreters, and of other 
Innuits, and the news was communicated with apparent truthfulness. 
He says of the chief that he seemed an honest old fellow, delighted 
with his new koh-Iu-na friend, and frequently and cordially 
calling out to him, ^'■Man-nig-too-mer* The Franklin relics 
obtained from him included a inahogany barometer-case, 
spoons, forks, and a number of other small articles.! 

But other news received from these strangers was any- 
thing but gratifying. It 
effectually barred further 
progress to King Will- 
liam's Land for the year 
1866. The first words to 
Nu-ker-^hoo, 3Iammark, and 
Ar-mou told the loss of 
their friends and relatives 
some years before by starv- 
ation, murder, and canni- 
balism. This was followed 
by such accounts of the 
dang-ers awaitinij them if 




FKANKLIN KELICS WITH HALL'S PENHOLDER. 



they went on to Pelly Bay and Ook-goo-lik, as to throw a damper on the 
whole party except Hall himself The old chief said that a very old and 
infirm man on removing to Ook-goo-lik had been immediately nuir- 
dered with his whole family ; that very recently there had been figiits 
among the Neit-tee-lik Innuits. for a woman, and one of them had been 

* The meaning of this word is not given by Hjill ; noris that of Ma-my-too-niig-tey-nia ( j>. 256. ) 
tACterwanI doujitcd by Hall to llic Sniiflisoniaii Institution, and in IHTC placed for llio 
United StaU's Naval ObHorvatory in their Aretic exhibit in th«! Government building at the Cen- 
tennial ICxhjIiition, I'liiladelphia. 



April, 1S66. 



Discouraging News. 



251) 



killed to get his wife ; that some of the Pelly Bay natives who were 

without wives, and who were being aided by the friends in tlieir 

attempts to steal wives from their husbands, would certainly carry off 

Mam-mark ; and that he himself was leaving his own country for Ke- 

pulse Bay through fear especially 

of the See-nee-mee-utes. He added 

that he had given this information ■ 

chiefly because of his friendsliip 

in past times for the parents of 

Ou-e-la, Nu-ker-^hoo, and others, 

and his promise to keep a good look 

out for any of tlieir children, if 

he should ever find them anywhere 

near the See-nee-me-utes. Three 

men of Kok-lee-arng-nun's party, one 

by one confirmed all that their 

chief had said of the bad state of 

afi^airs among the natives northward silver fokk and spoons (franklin relics'). 

and westward, and added that since a recent fight about a deposit, 

in which the See-nee-mee-utes had lost two men by the Neit-tee-liks, 

they were burning to wreak vengeance on somebody. 

Two of these Pelly Bay men told of their own visit, two years 
before, to Ki-ki-tung (King William's Land), on which they liad 
remained a short time. They pointed out on Rae's chart exactly the 
course they took in going and returning direct from the upper part of 
Pelly Bay overland to Spence Bay, and thence across the ice to Ki-ki- 
tung, passing the south point of Matty Island, and thence northwest ; — 
for sealing. When Hall questioned these two men as to any ships 




260 The Pelly Bay Natives Unfriendly. fAprii, iseo. 

having been seen on the north or west of Ki-ki-tung, they pointed 
again on Rae's chart to Cape Victoria, and said that, a few years before, 
many Innuits had seen a ship near there from which koh-lu-nas and 
sledges had come down from the south. 

This information was again interesting, but its communication was 
soon followed by some acts of the new-comers themselves toward 
Hall's people, which not only decided but hastened his setting out 
on the return for Repulse Bay.^ They seemed to have easily intimi- 
dated Ebierbing, Nu-her-zhoo, and others; getting from them some of 
their best dogs, weapons, and tools, and, a day or two after, inviting 
them to plays — boxing, wrestling, and knife-testing — an invitation from 
which Hall dissuaded them at the advice of Too-koo-li-too, who said 
there was danger of fighting and murder. She had been made 
aware of their custom of introducing a short, sharp-pointed bone inside 
of their mittens, so that, when boxing with these, they may strike a 
Repulse Bay native, if possible, on the side of the head near the 
eye ; — a deathblow struck in play. They then proceeded to carry out a 
grand an-Jcoot-ing, in the course of which their an-ge-ko gave a reply 
from the Spirit that Too-koo-li-too's sick babe should be given to 
them : a ruse, as Hall notes, to obtain further gifts. He came un- 
willingly to the conclusion that his own party lacked the nerve needed 
for any risk which might occur in going forward, although Nu-ker-zhoo 
had for himself protested that he was not afraid. With a sad heart, 
*' disappointed but not discouraged," he prepared for his return; yet 
making the resolve that he would endeavor, in the following year, to 
organize a party of four or five white men, with whom, together with 
Ar-mou, Nu-ker-zhoo, and Ebierbing, he would again come over this 
route and reach King William's Land. For that journey he would 



May, J 866.] Holl Compelled to Return. 261 

now make a deposit of expedition stores at Cape Weynton. His notes 
of this day contain these words : " Thanks be to God, I have yet the 
heart to persevere in what I have taken upon myself to do : to reach 
King William's Land, and there finish the mission that I am on. Ob- 
stacle after obstacle has yet to be overcome before I shall triumph, 
but by the aid of High Heaven I will yet succeed." 

The RETURN JOURNEY could be expected to bring but httle of 
special interest or of an experience differing from that so recently 
passed through ; the route followed, as will appear by the map (Chap- 
ter Xin), was nearly the same; the Pelly Bay men traveled in Plall's 
company until the 19th of the month, and then fell back to repair 
damages to their sleds. On the 5th, both companies made their start 
for Repulse Bay, presenting a singular and grotesque appearance with 
all their sledges, teams of dogs, men, women, and children ; the latter, 
of all ages and sizes, from infants in hoods to half-grown boys and 
girls. The sledge now driven by Nu-ker-zhoo was a relic of Sir 
John Ross's vessel, the Victory ; the runners, about 1 2 feet in length, 
being made of a part of one of her masts which had been found, many 
years, ago in the ice near the entrance to Pelly Bay. 

The day following, the stores for the next proposed journey to 
King William's Land were deposited in two places close to Cape Weyn- 
ton, the second deposit being that of a large trunk at a point near a 
cache once made by Dr. Rae; an accurate list of all these stores appears 
in the notes. A tent given to Hall by Captain Kilmer of the Black 
Eagle, was spread over the articles, and then ponderous stones were 
piled above, and the bearings of the two deposits from prominent 
neighboring points carefully recorded. While making these caches, 



262 Tlie Journey Bach to Fort Hope. [May, isee. 

a water sky was clearly seen by all the company underneath the dark 
nimbus clouds, East Northeast. 

The traveling on the 7th was under the disadvantage of a snow- 
squall, which overtook them at noon. The lead was taken by 
the Pelly Bay natives. As soon as Hall came up with old Kok-lee- 
arng-nun (a cripple), he took him and Too-koo-li-too on his own 
sledge, and walked by their side. Too-koo-li-too had with her as 
gifts from the strange natives, two pairs of scissors, a cap-box, and 
some shot that came from Ross's Victory, done up in the skin of a 
deer's heart. The distance made before 2.15 p. m. was almost the 
same with that of the 30th of April on going up. A prominent group 
of hills, called Kig-loo-a-te, was seen bearing south 72° west\from the 
forty-third encampment, and other high land called Shoung-noo-gua 
to the northwest ; a ravine divides the two. The high land extends 
back nearly a mile from the low coast The temperature was now 
much higher; the thermometer, hanging on the shady side of the sledge 
and affected by reflection, read 36°. All day, the snow was deep and 
soft, and the ice completely worn off from the shoeing of the sledges, 
so that scarcely two miles an hour on the average could be made. 

The coast-line was more closely followed on the travel of the 8th 
and 9th, and was found to be very irregular and generally low. At 
one point a ridge composed of sand, clay, and shingle only 4^ feet in 
height looked to those traveling on the sea-ice "like a considerable 
mount." From Cape Weynton to Cape Lady Pelly, this low land, 
mostly consisting of frozen mud, was without snow, and appeared 
to have been so through the winter; some patches having thawed, 
forming soft mud. In the frozen mud were many fossils, of wliich 
Ar-mou brought in from his took-too hunt a fine lot, and the wife of the 



May. 1S60.1 Killing Marmots. 263 

old chief emptied out on the sled a number from her full mittens; Hall 
had instnicted all the Innuits to bring to him all curious-looking 
things whenever they saw them. 

Little provision remained on hand. He gave out his unpalatable 
damaged Marshall sausage-meat for breakfast, and, while he ate of the 
same food, he was glad to find that his plan succeeded, for a couple of the 
unwilling Innuits now promptly started off for took-too. He gives a racy 
account of the taking of some six-ics (marmots). Ebierbing, while 
the Pelly Bay Innuits intensely watched him, three times in succession 
missed tho little animal, though using Hall's best rifle. The creature 
sat by his hole without fright all the time, except at the first shot 
when it went into his hole, but was quickly out again. At another 
hunt, Nu-lier-shoo, Ebierbing, and^r-wow were all out with rifles; but, 
after their firing three shots, six-y darted into his hole and was in- 
stantly out again; one minute later, another shot, and six-y was again 
out, as if saying "Kill me, if you can." The Pelly Bay natives laughed 
at tlie weapons used; for with a simple string having a slip-noose — 
sometimes made of the end of a whip-lash — they readil}^ caught a 
number of these little animals, one of which made a good meal for 
a man. See-pung-er, one of the Pelly Bay men, came in at midday on 
the 9th, and, sticking his thumb and fingers straight out, showed 
his answer to the question how many he had killed and the bites 
he had received. The wife of Kok-lee-arng-nun also showed three 
six-ies slung on her back; she had caught them by a "slip-a- 
noose" at their holes. But the stock of provisions was still short; 
the company at times could take but one meal a day, with the 
addition of a small bit of whale-beef, the dog-food. A crow which 
had come very close to the traveling party escaped both the dogs and 



264 Fossils in the Clay and Sand-Hills. (M«y, isee. 

rifle-shots. An owl had the same happy deliverance, but a few part- 
ridges were secured. At night in the kom-mong — pern mi can- soup, with 
Borden biscuit, refreshed all except Too-koo-li-too, who, on account of 
her sick child, was allowed by her superstitious friends to eat bread 
only. 

On the two days that followed, success in the deer-hunt re-sup- 
plied the company with fresh meat, and the dogs received something, 
although but little and that of "not much more account than sawdust- 
pudding"; the supply for seventeen animals being only two deer- 
paunches. But they had stolen seal-blubber and whale-meat from the 
sledges while they were loading up, in spite of unmerciful poundings 
with big sticks and clubs. 

On the 11th, when the party came near Rae's "Point Hargrave," 
Hall left the sledges, and ascending the point, found its height to be 
about 75 feet above the level of the sea, and that it was a hill of 
rock (granite and gneiss, as Rae has recorded it), having on its eastern 
side a small inclined plane leading from the coast up to a gap on the 
ridge. From the top of the hill. Cape Lady Pelly and the land on the 
east side of the sea of Ak-koo-lee were plainly visible. At 7.15 p. m., 
having made scarcely more than a mile an hour on a course south- 
west from this point, he rested for the night, making his forty-fifth 
encampment on a sand-plain covered with very dirty snow. The after- 
noon route had been one of perplexing difficulties in making any head- 
way with the loaded sledges, but the discovery of clay and sand hills 
of a most interesting character, containing stores of valuable fossils of 
innumerable kinds, well repaid him for the outlay of human and dog 
muscle that had been expended in getting through the labyrintli of 
tins "mud and fossil city," as he hastily called the place. On getting 



iTiBT, 1866.1 Death of Too-koo-U-too's Bahe. 2G5 

through these fossil hills and returning to his igloo, he found that 
Nu-ker-zlioo had put within it all the deer he had killed; a most kindly 
act, done without even a hint. It was another gratification to learn 
that his own black dog had added eight pups to their live stock. 

On the 13th, the long-expected death of Too-koo-li-too's child. 
Little King William, took place. The almost distracted mother, the 
moment she found that it was really dead, rushed out of the igloo, 
pressing the dead baby to her bosom and pouring out her soul's deep 
grief. Her leaving the igloo so quickly was in accordance with Innuit 
custom ; for if this is not done when any one dies in it, everything 
within becomes worthless. In this case it was considered that the 
mother went out soon enough, so that the bedding and everything 
else need not be thrown away. In ten minutes she returned and 
took her seat on the bed-platform, grieving for a very long time as a 
loving mother only grieves. At lengtli she was persuaded by Mam- 
mark to let the dead babe be taken from her bosom and wrapped 
in a small furred took-too skin. Mam-mark insisted that, according 
to the custom of her people, the remains must be buried at once ; 
but, on Hall's remonstrating and urging that they should be kept till 
at least tlie next day, a compromise was made, and the child that died 
at 2.5 minutes past 1 p. m. was buried at G.30. The remains had 
been dressed in a suit of young took-too furs, made by the mother the 
winter before They were now wrapped in a blanket of took-too skin 
of long fur, tied with tliongs, and having a loop in it to go over the 
neck of the mother, who must carry the corpse. A hole having been 
cut through the wall of the igloo for the procession of four persons in 
single file. Hall, Mam-mark, the bereft mother with the babe suspended 
from her neck, and the father following close, proceeded to tlie place 



26G Burial of the Babe. [May, isee. 

of burial on a little hill, which Hall had selected. Before the remains 

were laid in the grave, he wrote out the following record : 

These are tlie mortal remains of Little King William, tlic ouly child of 
Ebierbing and Too koo li-too, the interpreters of the last Franklin Eesearch Ex- 
l)edition. Deposited here May 13, 18GG, the day of its death. God hatli its soul 
now and will keep it from all harm. — C. F. Hall, May 14, 18GG. 

This he placed within the fur cap covering the head of the child, 
and returning next day to the grave, he erected near it a monument of 
five stones, three at the base — typical of Faith, Hope, and Charity — 
and on these the two others, forming the figure of a cross 

At the burial, though it was blowing a gale and a snow-drift was 
flying, the mother could not be prevailed upon to wear her double 
jacket to protect herself from the storm. " She must needs comply 
with custom." Under the same influence, she had already borne for 
some days the inconvenience of wet feet ; neither could her wet stock- 
ings be dried, nor the rips in her boots repaired. It was little comfort 
to her, a few days after, to be told by Mam-mark and Nu-her-zJioo that 
the cliild would have lived, as the " Spirit" had said to the an-gc-Jco, if 
she had not consented, by Hall's advice, to receive it back from Nu- 
ker-zlioo's wife, or if she had not departed from the customs of the In- 
nuits in the matter of her daily living. She renewed lier subjection to 
the customs of the j^eople, and received their instractions, that for one 
year her husband and herself must be very careful what they should 
eat, and tliat tlie same be not raw, and her husband began his compli- 
ance with such instructions by pleading the death of his child as for- 
bidding him to carry on liis usual daily duties even in the matter of 
prei)aring the ammunition necessary for the lumt. Hall says liero that 
probably none of the Eskimo tribes are cursed with so many ridiculous 
customs as the Repulse Bay and Ig-loo-lik people. 



may, is««.j Encampment near North Pole Lake. 267 

The 17th was a very warm day, the thermometer reaching 38°, 
although no sun appeared ; the upper walls of the hom-mongs fell in, 
and made necessary the erection of tent-coverings overhead. The day 
following, the snow melting as it fell, prevented the party from resum- 
ing their return journey. The shoeing of the sledges also was found 
entirely thawed off during the night. In the morning Hall found that 
one of his pups had been suffocated by its mother lying upon it, and 
that, failing to lick it into life, she had eaten it for her breakfast. On 
the 19th, lie found she had repeated the act, a few bloody spots 
only remaining to tell the tale This left him but five of the litter, 
the birth of which had given him hope of efficient aid on his next 
journey. He had to handle this mother black dog and her pups him- 
self, as the Innuits, through some superstitious notions, were unwill- 
ing to feed or to harness them. 

At 8 15 p. m. of this day the party began a further advance, pre- 
ferring to travel at night, and averaging two and a half miles per hour, 
until twenty minutes past midnight. On leaving the small lake on 
which they had made their thirty-fifth encampment, April 19, deviat- 
ing now from the route of that date, they crossed a bluff the descent 
of which being very abrupt was swifth^ made by the loaded sledges 
themselves, when the teams, which had been doubled up for the 
ascent, were successfully detached. On the 21st, the party got 
back as far as the Lower Narrows, heretofore noticed as a deer-cross- 
ing, and on the 22d, they made the forty-ninth encampment on the 
same spot between Christie and North Pole Lake which they had 
occupied on the 5tli of April. At this place See-pung-er arrived, 
to the surprise of all, with his family. He had been working hard to 
rejoin the party since being separated from them at the forty-sixth 



268 Arrival at Beacon Hill. [iway, isee. 

encampment. His sled was found to be very heavily loaded; for, 
besides his household goods, it had on it two cumbrous ki-a frames, 
one of which was made entirely from a boat of the Franklin Expedi- 
tion, and the sledge itself from a mast of Captain Ross's "Victory." 
In the midst of a howling storm, he was promptly supplied with 
an armful of took-too meat. The next day, in company with Nuker- 
zhoo and his family, he again left Hall for a time. 

On the 23d, the journey down the North Pole Lake was made 
swiftly by the use of a tent for a sail to the sledges, assisting the poor 
hungry dogs; the sled itself sometimes getting in advance of them. 
Ebierbing and She-nuk-shoo traveled beside the sledge to guide it. 
During the evening, from three and a half to four miles an hour were 
made by sail only, and at fifteen minutes past 8 a. m. of the 24th, Hall 
revisited his boat Sylvia and his stores deposited at the base of Beacon 
Hill, March 31st, and to the record he had then placed on the Sylvia on 
leaving this point, he now added an inscription summing up the obstacles 
met with on the journey and his plans for renewing it. He had the satis- 
faction to find that Ou-e-la had been faithful to his promise of that 
date, to take from the hill the half-barrel containing the records, and 
protect them from any strange Innuits. It seemed plain from the 
snow-tracks that some of Ou-e-la's friends had been recently at the hill, 
and Ar-mou went off to find him. 

'J'he notes of the 25th read thus : 

To-day my King William party was ended, for the present at least. This, 
of course, was in correspondence to the natural course of passing events. Our 
separation was, however, for this reason : I desire to remain lierc; a few days, 
and try and do some ^^Titiug, recounting the iin])<)itant matter 1 Iuinc gained 
of the Pelly Bay natives relative to Sir .John Franklin's Expedition, Ebier- 
bing, Too-koo-li-too, Mam mark, and her little son remaining here with me. On 



May, 1866.] Holl Will Rcnew his Journey. 269 

the return of the successful tooJc-too party of this day, I invited all the men 
into my Icom-mong, and there I served each with moderate drinks of capital good 
Bourbon whisky. We talked, smoked, and drank — talked, smoked, and drank 
till every heart felt that it should be friendly to everybody. One matter is 
worthy of record : all the men of my party are still determined to accompany me 
next spring, when I purpose to try again. 

It vrould seem, however, that this last statement was directly 
against the experience of the 5th of the month which has been re- 
corded ; for, on that day, every one of Hall's companions except 
Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too had insisted on his return, Nu-her-zhoo 
(Jack) particularly had shown the white feather even while standing 
before Hall, boasting of his courage ; and it will be found in the story 
of the year 1869, that when Hall first succeeded in reaching King Wil- 
liam's Land, this man, when the whole company were well armed, 
was again much alarmed at the first sight of strange Innuits. Hall 
certainly found each of the tribes hostile and apprehensive — mutually 
fearing and feared. Before setting out on this journey, his party had 
more than once spoken of the See-ne-mee-utes — the natives of ^'■See- 
wee," near Cape Berens — as being a party of murderous fellows ; their 
way of greeting a stranger* being to present a long knife seemingly as 
a gift, but allowed accidentally io slip into his breast. (See page 277.) 
That a fight was not in some like way begun by the Felly Bay men 
on their meeting wiih Hall's company, seems to have been owing to 
their having learned from Too-koo-li-too about the ships in the bay — 
Hall's friends. 

* The customs of the Eskimos of Cumberland Inlet in this, .as reported by Mr. L. Kumlien, 
of the recent Howgate Expedition, seem less dangerous, but equally strange : 

"When a stranger arrives at an encampment, the Ancoot and the stranger face one an- 
other. Both have mittens of seal-skin. The stranger complacently folds his arms over his 
breast, and inclines his head to one side, so as fully to expose his cheek, vrbile the Ancoot deals 
bim a terrible blow on it, sometimes felling him to the ground. The two actors now change 
parts, jinii it becomes the stranger's turn to strike, which he does with a vengeance. The two 
then kiss each other, the ceremony is over, and due hospitality is shown to the stranger by all. 



HAPTER 



J/- 



JOURNEYS AROUND REPULSE BAY, SUMMER-LIFE, AND 

THIRD WINTER. 

JUNE, 1866. TO FEBRUARY, 186/. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Conditions necessaey for a new joueney — Experience with the natives of Pelly Bay — 
Arrival of the tribe at E-nook-shoo-lik — Hall goes out to meet them — Eeception 

OF THEIR AN-GE-KO — THEIR STORY OF THE WHITE MAN'S MONUMENT AT ShAR-TOO — THE 

tin cup with paper in it which was thrown away — The skeletons by the monu- 
ment — The superstitions of these people — Hall accused or bringing sickness 

AMONG THEM — ThE HANGING OF THE OLD CHIEF AND HIS WIFE BY THEIR SON ''TO TAKE 
THEM TO THE HAPPY LAND" — HaLL KEEPS THE PEACE BETWEEN THE PELLY' BaY AND THE 

Eepulse Bay nati'S'es — Settles some old feuds in his tupik — His sledge journeys 

FOR survey of the BAY — EMBARRASSMENTS IN HIS WORK — DEATH OF OU-E-LA'S WIFE — 

Ill-treatment of women — Arrival of the whalers — Hall requests them to spare 

MEN from their CREWS FOR HIS NEXT JOURNEY — HiS ASSISTANCE TO THE CAPTAINS — TlIE 
SHIPS DECIDE TO WINTER IN THE BAY— HaLL ENCAMPS NEAR THEM IN NOVEMBER — IXTER- 
COUESE THROUGH THE WINTER — ThK CAPTAINS WILL NOT LET THE InXUITS FURNISH I[IM 
WITH DOGS. 

''Disappointed but not discoueaged " ; — yet Hall, when writing 
this, had a full consciousness that at least nine months must be 
passed before he could set his face again toward Ki-ki-tuk for the 
Records. He had turned back from Colvile Bay, as has been noted, 
with the words above, written down in his notes in sorrow, but with an 
unbroken purpose. The experience of the sledge journey had satis- 
fied him that he nmst try to organize his party more wisely, if he 
would secure even partial success ; and he looked forward with the 
hope of obtaining assistance for this from the whalers when they 

should come into the bay. The alternatives before him were either to 
S. Ex. 27 18 27.S 



274 Plans for the Next Year. iJnne, isee. 

gain this lielp or to return with them to the United States. But the 
latter of these is not named in the journals of that season. 

For a renewed advance he had fully decided that he must have 
the services of several armed white men as a guard, and he knew as 
well that he must secure full provision for a long journey and at least 
one good dog-team. To procure the dogs might prove to be his hardest 
work. For either one or both of these objects, he would be dependent 
on the further continuance of good-will between himself and the Re- 
pulse Bay natives and between them and the Pelly Bay men ; for, as 
these men had already caused his own Eskimos to turn back at the very 
point from which he had been ready to cross to King William's Land, 
it was clear that, even if no hostile attack were made, the same intimi- 
dations brought to bear upon any new party might arrest its work. 
Among the Neitchilles a guard might be a necessity. 

That the Pelly Bay men were, as Mam-marh had told him, "a 
queer people, doing many strange things," came out very plainl}^ in 
their intercourse from the da}^ of their again meeting Avith Hall and 
his natives. 8ee-pung-er, who had been the first to overtake the 
return party on their journey, was quickly the occasion of an appre- 
hension that he would bring out an old feud with them ; for no 
sooner had he met with his first success in the use of a gun, than he 
was heard to say it would be a good thing to kill Innuits with as well 
as deer. He proved to be a careless fellow, too, in using the weapon, 
and Hall felt sure that if his men could prevent it, See-pung-er would 
never be allowed to carry it back to his own country. 

The rest of the Pelly Bay men were willingly delayed some time 
on their journey by a long musk-ox hunt. Their coming down to 
E-nook-shoo-lik, where Hall made his fifty-second encampment, on 



June, 1866.] The Pellji Bay Natives Arrive. 275 

tlie 10th of June, excited new fears. He had come over from his 
quiet rest at Fort Hope, where he had much desired to make up the 
the notes of his late sledge journey, because the Innuits had repre- 
sented that they must move nearer the whaling grounds before the 
disappearance of the snow and ice should take from them the means of 
transporting their boats and sledges. To be at hand for the capture 
of whales was also what he most desired for himself, in order to 
further his plans for securing the services of the white men. 

A few days after his coming down, an alarm was given that 
strangers were seen in the distance, and Oong-oo-too, harnessing up 
his dogs, drove Hall rapidly over the sea-ice to meet them. At 11 p. 
m. they were found at a time when in trouble at crossing a fissure 
in the ice ; their driver, taking Hall's advice to pull his dogs back 
from the slush in which they were plunging, crossed over readily a 
little nearer the encampment. The old chief Kok-lee-arng-nun and 
his followers renewed cordial greetings with Hall's party. Their 
teams were joined and sledges formed in line, and a triple team fol- 
lowed into E-nook-shoo-lik by a motley group, made up of sixteen men, 
women, and children. The Iwillik women then marched up singly 
behind the Pelly Bay an-ge-Jco, and hung, each, some odd article, as a 
bead, a piece of took-too fringe, or an old razor upon his jacket ; the 
an-ge-ko himself raising his eyes solemnly upward and now and then 
extending his right arm. Each Iimuit took one or more of the 
strangers into his tupik., Hall having for his guest his old friend Kok- 
lee-arng-nun; after which, festivities followed during some days, includ- 
ing a mock musk-ox hunt, in which men and boys, wearing the skins 
of the animals, were fiercely hunted by other men and dogs. 

But throughout the reception, each of the Pelly Bay men had 



276 8ee-pung-er''s Story. iJunc, isog. 

kept full in sight the long knife which he had shown at their first 
meeting. An old quarrel between See-pung-er and Ou-e-la, which had 
once nearly cost Ou-e-la his life, and another between old Sec-gar and 
KoJc-lee-arng-nun, were still unsettled. It could not then be known 
at what moment an outbreak might occur, although Ou-e-la was at the 
time absent. He had just lost one of his wives, and knew that No. 2 
was near her death. It was all-important for Hall to keep the peace. 
He had already learned something of value connected with the Frank- 
lin records from See-pung-er and his wife, and he hoped to learn much 
more from others of Koh-lee-arng-nun! s party. 

See-pung-er^ three years before, had visited King "William's Land. 
He told Hall that he had seen, near Shar-too, not far from Pelly Bay, 
a very high and singular E-nook-sJioo-yer (monument), built by koh- 
lu-nas, of stones, and having on its top a piece of wood something 
like a hand pointing in a certain direction. He had also seen a monu- 
ment about the height of a tall man, at another point somewhere 
between Port Parry and Cape Sabine. When asked whether he had 
thrown this pile down, he answered, ''Only enough of it to find some- 
thing within." And when further closely questioned, he said that 
what he found was the small tin-cup which he had just given to Too- 
koo-li-too ; that a tight top had fitted it ; and that it was thickly and 
tightly wrapped up and tied, and had been found full of just such 
looking stufi" as the paper on which Hall had been writing; but, he 
added, ''this stuff inside was good for nothing to Innuits, and so 
was given to the children, or thrown away." He said further that he 
and his uncle had spent one night near this monument, wrapping 
themselves up in blankets taken from a pile of white men's clothing 
found there, and that a koh-lu-na\s skeleton lay by the pile. Hall 



June, 1866.] Httll Accuscd of Miscliief. ''Ill 

thought that this story seemed to confirm what had been before told 
him, — that when FrankHn's ships were crushed by the ice, some of his 
party, after trying to go down the west side of King Wilham's Land, 
had turned back, doubled Cape Felix, and come down on the eastern 
coast. And, at the time, he persuaded himself that the monument was 
the vault containing the long-desired records. 

He had a curious though short experience of trials with these 
Pelly Bay people. His first trouble was, that, after a short absence 
fi'om them, he found on his return, it had been whispered around that 
he had been the cause of the death of Nu-'ker-zliod's young child — 
bringing on spasms by placing his hands on its head. Relieved of 
apprehension from this rumor by being called on to prescribe for the 
old chief himself and for some children, he was told that the wife of 
the chief had hung herself, because he had persuaded her husband to 
remain longer with the Repulse Bay men, and because he had given 
medicine to these children. The tribe, one and all, accused Hall of 
being the author of these sicknesses. Not long after this the old chief 
himself was hung.* 

But with the assistance of his two Eskimos, Hall prevented any 
permanent or serious quarrels between the two parties. Soon after 
the first coming of the Pelly Bay men, old See-gar and KoJc-lee-arng- 

* The circumstances of these deaths are not, however, given by Hall with his usual clear- 
ness. At a later date, he says that the son of the chief told him, with tears in his eyes, "He was 
very sorry he had no father or mother living with him, but that it had been his duty to hang 
them, as it was at their request, and that by their dying thus they would be sure of going 
to that happy place where all good Inuuits go." See-pung-er, it was well known, had hnug his 
grandfather when he had become feeble. Too-koo-li-too said that these Pelly Bay natives, as 
well as the Neitchilles, believed in Eud-lee-pur-me-an and Ad-lec-ptir-mc-an (a good and a bad place) ; 
but she thought the Iwillik people believed in nothing of the kind. 
~ In some memoranda prepared by Hall for one of his lectures after returning from this 
Expedition, he speaks of this woman's having been hung as a "peace-offering." This points to a 
difficulty that separated the two tribes for a time, the Pelly Bay men going off some distance; 
in the memoranda just named, the words "a terrible time" are found in this last connection. 



278 Quarrels Settled. [jnne, isee. 

nun had closed, in his tiipik, their long-standing grudge, the blind old 
chief confessing that he had once wronged See-gar by deserting him 
when nearly starving, and See-gar avowing that he no longer retained 
any ill-feeling. The two men then sealed their renewed friendship by 
such jests as these: ^^ Kok-lee-arg-nun, why are you now tottering 
around with a staff, crooked as you are, your face with deep furrows, 
and your eyes dim; you used to be the smartest and best-looking 
Innuit in the whole country?" "But, See-gar, how is it that gou are 
no longer fond of all the pretty women to be found ? " — which last 
speech brought out a general laugh, as See-gar'' s reputation in this mat- 
ter was well established. 

Besides these reconciliations and the previous unhapj^y troubles 
which have been referred to, little more is found in Hall's notes of the 
intercourse between the two tribes, except that they remained near 
to each other and to the whalers, who, when they came, gave em- 
ployment to both on their ships. While so employed, Koong-e-ou-uk, 
the Pelly Bay an-ge-ko, having been severely beaten by a sailor 
belonging to Captain Kilmer's ship through a misunderstanding about 
a pair of boots which the wife of the native was making, was pro- 
tected through Hall's interposition. 

While waiting for the coming of the whalers, he could not remain 
unoccupied. He planned for himself the work of a survey of the bay 
of which Ou-e-la drew for him a rough sketch. He hoped also to 
secure at least one whale, the proceeds of which with those of the 
one cached the year before, would be so much toward the pay of the 
guard he would need for Neitchille. 

The sledge journe}'s made for this survey are marked on the 
accompanying map. They were mainly these: Before meeting again 



86°20' 



8G°C 



,.'^'- 



k. 




B alters 



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July, 1866.] IlaU Begins His Survey of Repulse Bay. 279 

with the Pelly Bay men, he had crossed from Iwilhk to the west side 
of the ba}^, to a point where he discovered a river of which the Inniiits 
had often spoken, and which he now named Grinnell River; it was 
found to be as large as the North Pole River of Dr. Rae Oii-e-la, 
wishing to visit his wife's grave on Tee-kee-ra, was Hall's dog-driver, 
and with his usual success killed several seals on the journey. The 
travel was difficult; they had a small sled and a small team; and the 
snow was tracked with blood from the feet of the dogs, made sore by 
the hard and sharp roughnesses of the ice-crystals on the floes. The 
travelers themselves had a shelter for the night within a snow wall 
18 inches in height, across which they stretched their blankets. 
Wliile Ou-e-la was on his hunt, Hall had to make his lunch on the 
vermin dugr out from underneath the deer-skins. Astronomical obser- 
vations gave for the position of Tee-kee-ra, latitude QQ° 26'. 

On the 14th of the month he began from E-noo-shoo-lik his long 
desired attempt to sketch a full outline of the coast for his friends the 
whalers ; hoping thus to tempt their more frequent visits to the bay. 
He had for his companions only two Innuit boys, Oot-pik and She-nuk- 
shoo, who were to be drivers and hunters. With these he started first 
for Fort Hope. On the first day, the chronometers were injured by 
the breaking of the tie while passing over very rough floes. The 
dogs sufi'ered much from sore feet ; one of them falling into a crack 
in the ice was saved only by the use of a lasso. 

The second day was divided between surveying and an advance 
on the route. But after a halt to secure a deer, the travel was con- 
tinued until 3 a. m. of the 1 6th, when they reached the banks of North 
Pole River. On the last part of their route the melted snow had been 
found in some places standing to the depth of three feet on the ice ; 



280 Journeys Around JRepulse Bay. [Jniy, isee. 

the dogs with great difficulty dragged the sled through. Hall sent his 
boys off to hunt, and occupied the next two days in surveys made 
from Beacon Hill, from which place the coast of Southampton Island 
again loomed up by refraction. 

Renewing his journey and arriving again at Tee-kee-ra, he busied 
himself in renewed observations for position, in taking sextant-angles 
and compass-bearings, and in sketching the coast-line. In such work 
the time passed far more swiftly than while housed by the storms which 
had swept over his igloo. The boys proved to be good hunters for deer 
and for ducks, but failed to secure a single seal by their invariably 
bursting into a loud laugh when getting near the animals. To help 
their seal-training, he afterward made for each a shield like those used 
by the Greenlanders. When he was back at E-nook-shoo-lik the 
whole party of the Innuits had gone off, leaving no sign whatever to 
tell the white man where to find them. Hastening to Ships' Harbor 
Islands, he found no traces of them, and returned to E-nook-shoo- 
lik to spend two days more in his surveys. Having crossed next 
to Sheg-lua, at the head of the bay but still without success in his 
search, on the 28th he set out for Oog-la-ri-your Island, making a diffi- 
cult journey, but finding his old friends about five miles from the 
island. The boys were the first to see the tupiJcs on the shore. Ebier- 
bing and Too-koo-li-too had been persuaded by the others to go off 
with some friends for a short deer-hunt. The next sledge trip was to 
Rock Knob ; thence to Pi-tik-tou-yer Heights, and, finally, back to 
the neighborhood of E-nook-shoo-lik, during which journeys and up 
to August 8 the observations and sketching of the coast-line were con- 
tinued. 

These had not been made without trying experiences. The 



August, 1866.] Serious Obstacles in Surveying. 281 

changing temperatures of the past seasons had cracked the silvering 
in many places on the mirrors of his sextant, and rapid and unaccount- 
able changes appeared in the index corrections. His compass often 
changed so rapidly that no dependence was placed on its readings ; 
and excessive refraction shut out some points of land and brought new 
ones prominently in view. ''At times an island seemed to rise and 
fall as if an earthquake were at work." 

In the day-time, radiation often forced his work into the night; 
but the Innuits made much use of the night for their work and their 
boisterous festivities; and by staying up all night and sleeping all day, 
created for him such an uncertainty of time that he sometimes forgot 
to wind his chronometers, and was perplexed when writing up his 
notes. Overcoming his difficulties and annoyances so far as he could, 
he began the sketch of the bay, of which the accompanying map 
represents the line as found completed during the later years of his stay. 

The journeys were not without some incidents of interest. At 
Pi-tik-tou-yer, he found a well-built circular stone wall 30 feet in 
diameter. It was an old camping-ground, showing many Eskimo 
remains, and offering inducements to any one whose mind was not, 
like his, absorbed in other purposes, to remain for its full exploration. 

Incidents of a different character, however, now filled up all the 
hours of thought not given by Hall to his main work. This seems plain 
from the extreme fullness of his notes when setting down the con- 
tinued annoyances to which he was still subjected. The iron rule of 
Innuit customs, already often referred to as hindering his plans, seems 
to have stretched itself out before him as though it must touch some- 
where every purpose which he might form. It were useless to specify 
such cases, a number of which will be found in future chapters ; a 



282 Beath of Queen Emma. [August, is66. 

single incident of interest may be here noted. On the 1st of July, 
Ou-e-la, the chief, lost his only remaining- wife, known under the name 
of Queen Emma. The poor creature had been very harshly treated 
through a long sickness, having been refused nutritious food at a time 
when it might have saved her life, and again refused when charged, 
through jealousy, with giving premature birth to a child without in- 
forming her husband of it. She was accounted guilty through the 
decree of the an-ge-ko, which shut out all protestations of innocence 
from herself and her mother; and the maledictions poured upon her by 
the ignorant of the village had helped to hasten her death. Her suffer- 
ings were another proof of the indifference and hard-heartedness 
found habitually to prevail toward the women ; other instances fre- 
quently occurring, as in the case of See-pung-er' s wife, compelled to 
walk more than sixty miles, with a liy-ah on her head and a child of 
three years in her hood, though herself in a delicate condition.* The 
death of Queen Emma gave Hall some annoyance, because Ou-e-la^s 
old enmity against the Pelly Bay men was now revived by the declar- 
ation of the an-ge-ko that it was their coming which had caused it. 

But some relief for all this was at hand. His health, which had 
been somewhat broken, was restored. The season had been almost 

*Tlio degraded conditiou of women in countries not under tlie inflnenco of Christianity is 
too well known to need comment. The chief of a tribe near the Mackenzie expressed the com- 
mon feeling of Northern savages when he said : 

"Women were made for hibor. One of them can cari-y or haul as much as two men can 
do. They also ])iteh our tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us warm at night; and, in 
fact, there is no such thing as traveling any considerable distance, or for any length of tiuie, in 
this country without their assistance. Though they can do everything, they are maintained at .1 
triiliug expense; for as they stand cook, tlie very lickiny of their jinijvrs in scarce times i.v sufficient 
for their subsistence." — (Hearne's Journey to the North Ocean, p. 54.) 

Compare with this their condition in Central Australia: "While husband, father, or 
brother is feasting on the game which she has cooked, a wife or sister thinks herself fortunate if 
now and then a nearly-cleaned bone or a piece of scordied meat is tossed to her as to a dog. — 
Wood's Uncivilized Races.) 



August, J866.) News from Home. 283 

uninterruptedly pleasant ; during the nights the thermometer had not 
fallen below 40°, ranging during the day between 48° and 57°. His 
Innuit friends, from whom he had at one time separated himself, were 
not really estranged from him, and Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too 
stood, as ever, steadfastly close. The relief came on the last days of 
the month, when the first whale of the season was heard to blow ; and 
better still, when refraction brought up from the ice-horizon the forms 
of three ships under full sail. 

It was not a mirage of disappointment. A boat from the Pioneer, 
Captain Morgan, of New London, in a few hours pushed off to hail 
Hall from the shore; and it cannot be thought unmanly in him to 
have recorded that he answered this salutation in tears. The sight 
once more of a single friend, from the midst of his firmest friends, was 
a full overmatch for all the roughness that had been forced upon his 
nature by the ignorant and the degraded. To complete the pleasur- 
able change, several other vessels soon came to Ships' Harbor Islands, 
and the Black Eagle brought to him letters from Mr. Grinnell. From 
Messrs. Harpers, his publishers, they brought a copy of the "Arctic 
Researches," the preface of which volume had been dated " On Board 
the Bark Monticello, June 30, 1864," and its last proof-corrections 
sent from the ship when just leaving the harbor of St. John's, with the 
indorsement, "All well and in good spirits, bound for the glorious 
North." 

Mr. Grinnell sent the following letter from Lady Franklin to Mr 

Cornelius Grinnell: 

Upper Gove Lodge, October 18, 1865. 
My Dear Cornelius: I return your father's letter with many thanks. 
Please thank him from [me] for his kind I'ememhrance of the deep interest I feel 
in all these researches of his brave and adventurous protege., and ask him to con- 



284 Letter from Lady FranJclin. [August, isee. 

tinue sending mo all the information he gets. jSTo one, especially no one of the 
Arctic oflBcers, can be indifterent to the news, bnt they see the painful side of the 
matter as well as the other. It is our bounden duty, as it is an impetuous in- 
stinct, to rescue them if possible, even though we may feel shocked as at the 
sight of skeletons rising in their winding-sheets from the tombs ; but the latter 
impression seems among people in general to be the i:)revailing one. It is felt 
that they, or he, would return, after a death of near twenty years, to a world that 
he knows not, in which the loved were gone, the living changed, and in which his 
own brain would turn with the momentous pressure of his feelings and the bewil- 
derment of his ideas. Sir Eoderick seems shocked at the news. He has no faith 
at present in the recovery of any living man, and deprecates more harrowing 
revelations. On this latter i)oint I am siu'e you will guard, dear Mr. Grinnell. If 
the journals of my husband's expedition should be brought to light, nothing that 
reflects on the character of another shoidd be published — nothing that would 
give sharp pain to any individual living. As respects my husband, I feel sure 
that Mr. Giinuell will yield me his journal if he should ever get it into his posses- 
sion. I offered £100 for it, in McClintock's Exiiedition, to any man who brings it 
back to me. That reward shall hold good, though I am sure Mr. Hall does not 
require any jjecuniary stimulus for the good work he is engaged in. 

I wish I might be allowed to offer another £100 toward any equipment that 
may be made in future, either in aid of Mr. Hall's work or for his own recovery, 
should he unfortunately be missing. I would gladlj^ have done this earlier, had 
I received timely information of his second voyage to Eepulse Bay, because I 
should have felt he was' then in the right course, and doing the right thing. 
When his first plan of going to Northumberland Inlet was brought before me in 
1800, it was represented to me by all the Arctic i^eople as the wildest and most 
foolhardy of schemes, which must necessarily fail, and with which, for the poor 
man's own sake, I ought to have nothing to do. I believe Hall is now doing 
exactly what should have been done from the beginning, but which no govern- 
ment could order to be done. Therefore, you must see how natural it is that I 
should like, even in the humblest and most subordinate way, to help, or to make 
Mr. Hall feel that I sympathize, in his labors. It is painful to me that I should 
appear to have no heart for the rescue of others, because my own dear husband 
has long been bej'ond the reach of all rescue. # * * 

Invited to a sofa on the Ansell Gibbs, Hall again found the change 

from his igloo too great to permit sleep, and at 1 a. m. of the next day 

was off in the whale-boats cruising with the men. 



August, 1866.] Hall Endeavors to Hire Men from the Whalers. 285 

On this first visit, intent on the one purpose of renewing his explo- 
rations, he expressed his desire to secure from these vessels the five white 
men needed to accompany him ; but he met with little encouragement, 
for the ships having their bare complement, could hardly be expected 
to spare a man with justice to the objects of their voyage and their 
obligations to the owners. This difficulty, however. Hall at once pro- 
posed to overcome by securing for the ships as many Innuits as the 
white men he asked for, and Captain Kilmer then engaged that if his 
ship could return home in the month of September following, with a 
full cargo of oil, he would leave the men who might be engaged by 
Hall, and whatever provisions he would need. 

During the whaling season, assistance was rendered to all the 
whalers, both by Hall's personal efforts and by his influence with 
the natives. He made observations for time, and was gratified to 
learn that the rates which he had given to the ships for their ckro- 
nometers on the previous year, had proved correct. He offered advice 
as to which whaling-grounds promised the best success ; he sent, out 
his own parties in the hunts to supply the ships with deer-meat ; and 
for a time nursed in his own tupik one of the sailors who had the 
scurvy. 

The captains were much exercised as to their success in whaling, 
finding it necessary to make several cruises in different directions, and 
yet without satisfactory results. Morgan, of the Pioneer, before com- 
ing into the bay had attempted to get down Frozen Strait, but was 
prevented by the ice. Cruising next west, and then to the southeast 
down the Welcome, he had found what seemed a passage there into 
the Duke of York's Bay, but only looked into it, fearing it was shallow, 
and finding the bay yet filled with ice. Parry's chart was found by 



286 A Second TVhale Captured [August, isee. 

Hall to have the head of the bay marked "Unexplored." Captain Mor- 
gan's observations gave ground for hope that a new channel might be 
found. Later in the season, by advice from Hall of wliat Parry and 
Lyon had said of the whales found in Gore Bay and Lyon's Inlet, and 
from what the natives also said of this, a boat was sent into those 
waters from each of the vessels, but without success. 

The parties sent out to hunt for supplies for the ships Avere gen- 
erally diligent and successful. One of these, after killing six deer, re- 
turned without Ebierbing; on their reporting which, Hall immediately 
went back with them, and found his lost man at the head of the bay. 
He had been too busy in the hunt to keep sight of his companions, 
and was well satisfied that he would be sent for; but he had had the 
pleasant experience of finding a wolf upon his track, to escape from 
which he had to wade into a lake and remain there until he tired out 
the animal's watch. Hall and his party heavily loaded themselves 
with Ebierbing's venison, but on their way to the boat. Hall was 
nearly choked by the string which held his pack catching tight under 
his chin. 

Another party of six men and three boys, sent out for the double 
purpose of killing deer, and, if possible, a whale, secured a whale, 
cached the blubber and brought back the bone from the head. From 
its length — 9 feet 6 inches from the butt to the end of the hair — Hall 
judged that sixty barrels of oil could be made from the blubber. The 
whale's whole length was 60 feet. 

By the 1st of September, with the help of Ebierbing, Ar-mou, and 
two other natives, he finished gumming, washing and preparing the bone 
of this whale and what remained of the one killed the year before. 
A part of the bone belonging to him had been carried off from the 



October, 1866.] Anxiouslij Aivaiting. 287 

shore by some of the sailors and not. entirely restored. Making- up 
his remaining- property into eighteen bundles, tied with rope-lashings 
and a three-stranded braid woven by Mam-mark, he placed on board 
the Ansell Gibbs a weight of about 1,500 pounds, to be sold on the 
return of the ship to the United States. 

But the whalers were not to return that season. The meager 
results of their cruises were now forcing the four ships, the Black 
Eagle, Ansell Gibbs, Concordia, and Glacier, to remain out another 
year; and their captains were soon to choose between their winter- 
ing in this bay or else at Marble or at Depot Island. The choice 
between these was of the utmost moment to Hall. If the decision should 
be to winter at the places last named, none of the crews could be 
spared to him until the ships should have passed through another 
year. To go down with them, as invited, might possibly give him 
the opportunity of learning something of Crozier from the natives of 
Chesterfield Inlet, for there were rumors of their having seen him. 
And yet to remain where he was, if the ships left him, was of little 
promise, since his next journey was dependent entirely on his getting 
the men he needed, and he was unable to effect the arrangement by 
which he proposed to substitute for such as might be left with him an 
equal number of Eskimos; the natives themselves, with but one excep- 
tion, were unwilling to go. But if the vessels should winter in the 
bay, he would have the five men who might volunteer for the spring 
months at the wages of $50 per month, and with these he hoped to 
make his journey to King William Land, return before the next whal- 
ing season was over, and be in the United States in the fall of 1867. 
He waited for the decision of the captains with no little anxiety. 

Returning to Beacon Hill and erecting his hipik on the same spot 



288 Hall Builds an Igloo Near the Ships. [November, isee. 

where Rae had his tents in 1847, his party succeeded within the next 
nine days in kilHng forty-one deer, but complained that the animals 
were shy and had kept off the coast. The crisping of the snow under 
foot was heard by the deer a long way off, and Hall himself had very 
little success, for when taking aim, his excitement was such that he 
invariably failed. He does not give his reasons for finding himself 
under the influence of this "buck-fever"; they may be almost in- 
ferred from what has been just written. His right eye had suffered 
some injury from his having neglected to use the colored glasses when 
taking his sextant observations; yet he made daily tramps from twelve 
to fifteen miles in the hunts. 

Under the anxieties which have been named and the rumor that 
the ships were to winter at Marble Island in the middle of the month, 
he again visited the Ansell Gibbs. The harbor was already filled with 
heavy ice, and the ships were constantly employed in keeping them- 
selves free; but the decision as to the place of wintering had not yet 
been made. On his return, before reaching Iwillik, he met with a 
severe storm which nearly capsized the Sylvia, and in landing he was 
gale-bound for three days, soon after which Ebierbing became danger- 
ously ill, continuing sick the whole of the following month. Hall 
seldom left him. 

His cliief trials, however, seemed now about to end. The cap- 
tains decided they would remain in the bay, and he had volunteers 
for his next journey. For carrying out his plans, therefore, and for 
a closer social intercourse, on the 24th of November, he moved near 
the ships, building for himself an igloo on one of the small islands of 
the group within which the whalers had anchored (No. 1 of the map 
of Ship's Harbor Island). Intercourse with the ships then became still 
more cordial. 



janaary, i86».i The Winter in an Igloo Near the Whalers. 289 

The amusements so necessary to sustain the cheerfulness and the 
health of officers and men during- the tedious rigors of an Arctic winter, 
were fully maintained on board. A dress ball was given on the 29th, 
which was kept by the New England captains as Thanksgiving Day. 
In another, on New Year's eve, when some of the crew and a few of the 
Innuit women were dressed like civilized ladies, Hall had to make his 
choice between dancing and speech-making; preferring the former, he 
led off with the first mate of the ship. The captains always held a 
seat in reserve for him at their '■'■gammings^'' — yarn-spinnings, chatting, 
and smoking ; he reciprocated these hospitalities by sharing with his 
friends the stores lately received from Mr. Grinnell and by liberal gifts 
of skin-clothing. But while passing through these enjoyments noth- 
ing diverted his attention from his main purpose of selecting the volun- 
teers he needed. Quite a number offered themselves; and on shore 
he began the instruction of those whom he accepted by setting them 
at work to dig out snow-drifts, and by sending them at different times 
with his Eskimos to bring in meat from the deposits. He now thought 
that he had full reason to expect that when the stormy season had 
passed, he could make with these men a second sledge journey with 
success. 

Strange as it might seem to any one but Hall, for these two and 
a half months he still lived in his snow-hut, in daily sight and sound 
of the ships, which were now comfortably housed for the winter ; and 
this although his very frequent invitations to their warm and hospita- 
ble cabins warrant the belief that he might have taken up his quarters 
on board. But he declares that he could not rest with ease unless in 
his igloo. It was his own ; he could write up his notes in it and study 
his Arctic books. His plans for the next season, too, were again ab- 

S. Ex. 27 19 



290 Men Secured, hut a Team Wanting. [February, iscr. 

sorbing his thoughts. Even the pack of wolves which swept over his 
igloo near the ships, carrying off one of the dogs, is spoken of in his 
journal as though it had happened as an ordinary occurrence, and as 
though it were in the lonesomeness of Beacon Hill or among the In- 
nuits at Noowook. He would not depart from his rough Arctic diet ; 
nor in any other way unfit himself for the mission to which he still 
thought himself called. But this was again suddenly arrested. Be- 
fore the first month of the new year closed, he found that he could 
not possibly make up a dog-team for a new journey. He might lose 
a whole third year, but this, at any sacrifice, he must endeavor to pre- 
vent : now that volunteers are engaged, he must secure the dogs. 



/ 



Chapter X. 



SLEDGE JOURNEY TO IG-LOO-LIK FOR DOGS. 

FEBRUARY 7 TO APRIL 1, 18G7. 



CHAPTER X. 



COUNTEK-CLAIMS ON TUE InNUITS FOll THEIR DOGS — HaLL DETERMINES TO MAKE A SLEDGE JOUR- 
NEY TO Ig-LOO-LIK TO PURCHASE HIS OWN TEAJM — LEAVES ShiPS' HaRBOR ISLANDS FEBRU- 
ARY 7 — First delays — Ou-e-la loses uis way — Provisions become, scarce — The 

MOUTHS of the DOGS TIED UP TO PREVENf THEIR EATING THE HARNESS — Am-I-TOKE 
REACHED, BUT NO NATl^'ES FOUND — Ou-E-LA ACCUSES HaLL OF BRINGING HIM TO STARVA- 
TION — Ig-LOO-LIK REACHED ON THE 27TH — PURCHASE OF DOGS — ViSIT TO TeRN ISLAND, TO 

Parry's flag-staff — Ou-e-la puts a widow and her household goods on the re- 
turn SLED — Hall puts her off on the ice — Starts back with another native as 

DRIVER — OU-E-LA'S BAD CONDUCT ON THE RETURN — HaLL AGAIN SIGHTS THE SHIPS ON 

the 30th of March — The captains now refuse to let hiji have the men for his 

JOURNEY. 

Dogs enough could be found among the natives. They owned 
sixty-eight ; a number sufficient for nine or ten ordinary teams. Hall 
had several dogs of his own, and asked but thirteen, to make up the two 
teams he needed. He had anticipated no difficulty in securing these, 
for he had just claims upon the natives, as he had bargained for such 
as he would ask for, and really paid for the larger number in tobacco 
and other articles. But the captains of the four vessels unitedly inter- 
posed. They insisted that not a single dog should be permitted by 
the Innuits to go on this journey; claiming that they "had fed these 
people through the winter, and had as yet no opportunity of receiving 
much in return. The natives would soon need all their dogs in sled- 
ding blubber and bone from the open water to the ships, and the time 

293 



294 Hall Begins a Long Journey. [February, iser. 

of Hall's return from his proposed journey might be beyond the open- 
ing of the season. Then, men and dogs must be actively employed to 
increase, if possible, the poor returns of the past year." Hall could 
not even get one of his own dogs, which he had put in Ooh-bar-loo's 
trust on returning from the last sledge journey. He was the more 
surprised at this issue, because the use of the teams was as clearly 
within the ideas of the conversations held in the winter, as was his 
selection of the white men, which had met the approval of the cap- 
tains ; if any difficulty on this point had arisen in these conversations 
some trace of it would be found in his full notes Helpless to enforce 
claims upon the natives, who were fully willing to keep their promises, 
he determined to make a sledge trip to Am-i-toke, or perhaps to Ig-loo- 
lik, even in the very depth of the winter, to buy his teams. The jour- 
ney might be one of more than three hundred miles ; but another year 
could not be lost. The captains cordially supplied him with articles 
of barter, which, within the next few days, he carefully arranged, 
making up also his stores for the trip. Sending his white men to one 
of the deposits to get whale-meat for the dog-food, he fed the men on 
their return with whale-skin, remarking in his notes that he had edu- 
cated them until they really liked raw, frozen meat, and adding that, 
perhaps with these very men, on his next voyage, D. V., he would 
push his discovei'ies to the North Pole. His thoughts had been on 
such a voyage during the past season. It had been discussed with 
the whalers, and he had openly avowed his intention to organize an 
expedition to the Pole as soon as he had completed his present mis- 
sion ; he held this voyage in nrind Avhen examining the volunteers 
for his present journey. 

After waiting the return of some of the natives from a trip made 



February, 1867.] 



TJie Bogs Upset tlie Sled. 



295 



to Lyon's Inlet for deer-meat, by the 7th of the month he had secured 
fourteen dogs, and left Ships Harbor Islands for Ig-loo-lik. The tem- 
perature was 40° below zero.* Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, for rea- 
sons not named, were left behind, and Frank Lailor, one of the white 
men, was placed in charge of his igloo. Ou-e-la, with his wife and 
half-breed child and the boy Oot-pik, were his only companions. 

Arriving opposite Pitiktouyer, Ou-e-la, agreeably to Innuit custom, 
went on shore to pay a visit to the grave of his brother, Slioo-sJie- ark-nook, 
and here the first trying delay was met with; for after a night in an igloo, 
they already missed one of 
the dogs and found two oth- 
ers to be useless. A return to 
the ships became necessary. 
But another delay was occa- 
sioned by the dog-lines be- 
coming entangled ; on which 
the dogs were detached from the pe-to, but before being again fast- 
ened to the sled, they had roughly dragged Hall and Oot-pik along for 
some distance. This, however, was but a renewal of former experiences ; 
for Hall had more than once known the dog-teams pull well for a little 
while, then suddenly wheel around and overturn him and his driver. 
The remedy had been, to jump in among them and pound away with 
the hatchet until they were made tractable. The pe-to, on which so 
much depended, was the line, made of heavy walrus or seal skin which 
fastened the dog-traces to the forward part of the sledge-runners: 

* It certainly marks strong resolution and conrage in Hall to undertake this northern 
trip iu Fehniari/. Captain Narcs' (R. N.) judgment is, that, unless for the purpose of saving life, 
no one should he called upon to undergo the fearful privations of an Arctic sledge jouruey 
during March or even in the early part of April.— (Narrative of a Voyage to the Polar Sea, 1878.) 




BEA-R-TOOTH, I'SED AS A TOGGLE. 



296 Journey to Ig-lOO-lik. [February, 1867. 

passed through ivory eyelets at the end of the traces, its ends were 
bound together by a toggle. 

When Hall returned, he found that the captains were on a fishing 
excursion upon a lake seven miles distant. He had to send to them 
a request for their consent to get other dogs ; he slept that night in 
his old igloo with Lailor, and the next day rejoined Ou-e-la; his 
team had already traveled sixty-two miles since their first leaving 
the ships. 

On the 10th, they passed up the river at the mouth of which 
they had built their first igloo, and after crossing valleys filled 
with deep snow, and ascending a very steep hill, built their second 
hut upon a little lake. Ou-e-lds child had already proved an an- 
noyance by its constant whining and insatiable clamor for bread. 
On the nth, Ross Bay was crossed, in which was observed a tide- 
hole, half a mile in length, that smoked like a coal-pit. Seals were 
spoiling in it. The day following, they came to an igloo occupied by 
a party of Innuits, which Ar-mou's brother, with a team of seven dogs, 
was conducting toward Am-i-toke ; one of the boys of this party, Tuk- 
kee-li-Jce-ta, was the son of Ag-loo-ka* a native who was said to have 
exchanged names with Parry.f An inlet was crossed which was not 
found on Parry's chart. [For the route see Map, Capter XII.] 

On the 1 3th, when passing an advance-deposit made by these 
natives, Ou-e-la liberally helped himself from it to whale and deer 
meat. The next day, he seemed to have lost the way, wandering about 
over low ground until, night coming on, he built an igloo on a small 
pond which was found to be frozen solid. During the whole of the 

"Spoken of by Parry as being ten years old when met by him. (Journal, 1821-'23, p. 367.) 

ITlie name Ag-loo-ka appears in Hall's notes as in use by the Innuits at one time for Koss, 

at another for Crozicr, and here ior Parry ; it seems to be a generic term for an ollicer in command. 



February, iS6».j SevBrc Triols. 297 

15th and 16th, the party were gale-bound, but the time was not wholly 
lost ; their bedding and clothing were dried in different ways, the 
clothing by wearing it in bed ; Hall's boots were taken in, one at a 
time, and kept under his jacket, close to his person. A heavy coating 
of frost showed itself between his two jackets, for the temperature had 
been 80° below zero. 

The stock of provisions was now getting low, bringing fear of a 
want of food before they could possibly renew their supplies ; nor was 
it at all certain that they would find natives at Am-i-toke. If they did 
not, they must hunt walrus out on the drifting ice, and thence push on 
to Ig-loo-lik. Thus far, they had lived almost wholly on dog-food, 
their only good provision having been four saddles of venison and 
twenty pounds of sea-bread, with a little coffee, sugar, and tea ; raw 
whale meat, skin, and blubber made their substantial working diet. 
Nothing had been cooked but a little coffee or tea, and in this cook- 
ing, in making drinking water, and in drying their clothing, they had 
consumed two gallons of whale-oil ; Hall's native lamp was about half 



hall's lamp. 



the usual size. An entrance-way to their igloo, 30 feet in length, made 
of three united oval igloos, had been built, that the dogs might be 
protected from the storm ; for the less they were exposed, the less 
hungi-y and poor would they become. They were sometimes fed 
freely from the whale-beef, a chunk of a hundred and fifty pounds 



298 The Bogs Poorly Fed. [February, iser. 

of which was given to the hungry beasts, who had ah'eady broken 
into the storehouse, and twice nearly eaten up their harness. 

Awaking at one o'clock the next morning, Hall pulled his ther- 
mometer into the igloo by a string, and found that the temperature 
was 30° below zero. Looking through the hole, he observed that 
the wind had died away, the sky was clear, and the moon was shining 
brightly. Filling his coffee-pot then with ice, he hung it over the fire- 
lamp, and, after resting for an hour or more, made his coffee, packed 
up, and again started. Ou-e-laJs child a second time proved very trou- 
blesome, causing repeated halts ; but by evening Hall had advanced 
about twenty-two miles, when the party built an igloo large enough to 
bring within it all their goods for safety from the dogs, which had be- 
come yet more savage, for even while feeding, the fierce brutes were 
with difficulty controlled. In the morning, when the igloo was un- 
sealed, they rushed into the passage-way, wedging Oot-piJc in it so 
tight that he could not move, and was released only after Ou-e-la and 
Hall had finished pounding them out of the hut. 

On the 18th and 19th, he was again gale-bound; his notes express 
his feelings in the words " Too bad ; but God overrules all." The 
food on this day was of stinking ooJc-gooJc and whale-meat of a greenish 
tint, buttered with strong whale-blubber. Ou-e-la thought it would 
take at least five days yet to reach Am-i-toke — discouraging enough, 
for the plan was to be back at the ships in time to start for King 
Willliam's Land March 1 5, but this it now seemed impossible to effect. 

On the 20th, the temperature was —10° at noon, but the wind 
was quite strong, and the drifting snow beat fiercely in their faces; 
yet a steaming cloud of vapor rose from the dogs as they ran along. 
Hall thought that if the weather moderated they would not give out 



February, 1867.] Frovisions ExJittusted. 299 

for a few days, although their food was nearly gone ; but it was found 
necessary to tie up their mouths to keep them from eating their draught- 
lines as they ran. The second day after this, they were fed on a little 
ook-gook blubber found in a deposit on the shore of the sea which they 
had now reached by an advance of twenty-four miles. At one time 
they had pulled through a gorge 10 feet wide, the quartz walls of which 
were 30 feet high. On the 23d, Am-i-toke was reached, but not a native 
was to he seen. A journey of four days was yet to be made to Ig-loo-lik. 
A strong wind now preventing any advance, their igloo on the 24th was 
built about six miles north of the Ooglit Islands. 

The next day twenty-three miles were made ; but at night their 
food was on some wah'us-hide, two years old, which Ou-e-la had found 
with the blubber at the deposit. On the 26th, their breakfast was on 
the very last of the meat. Hall says they satisfied their hunger by 
sharpening up their knives in anticipation of the walrus feast they 
might have that night at Ping-it-ka-lik. One of the dogs had been 
furiously set upon by the rest, and before being rescued was nearly 
eaten up; she was lashed in furs on the sledge. Through the whole 
day Ou-e-la was anxiously on the look-out for natives, climbing every 
high piece of ice, and looking sharply to discover some sledge-track, 
but finding none, he began to look the very picture of despair. From 
the slower progress now making, it seemed to him that Ping-it-ka-lik 
could not be reached before night, and if it were, they would find no 
Innuits there. Before long, therefore, he burst out in anger, charging 
Hall with having brought him and his family into a starving and hope- 
less condition, and his wife and Oot-piJc, catching his spirit, looked as 
savage, and cried out that they would die from starvation. Hall 
quieted their fears as best he could, and at night in the igloo gave to 



300 Arrival at Ig-lOO-Uk. February, 1S67. 

each a supper of hot tea, with some of his remaining eight pounds of 
sea-bread, pleasing Ou-e-la by giving to his httle idol cliild as much 
as to any one of the grown people. He reminded them that they might 
find walrus deposits at Ping-it-ka-lik, but, if not, could push on to 
Ig-loo-lik ; that until then, the rest of his bread would be for their 
free use ; and that, even if no Innuits or deposits should be found at 
Ig-loo-lik, the}' need not think of starvation, for with their instruments 
and gear they could get walrus on the drifting ice in the places with 
which Ou-e-la was familiar. He then gave them some account of the 
sufferings of white men from want of food in like circumstances with 
their own; relating those of Franklin and his companions, Richardson 
and Back, on their return from the Polar Sea. Before sleep came, 
Ou-e-la^s good humor had returned. 

The next morning, sledge-ti-acks were seen, and the party, light- 
ening their load by leaving most of their stores in a snow-house, 
pressed forward toward Ig-loo-lik. At 2 p. m. the voice of a driver and 
the cry of his dogs were heard, and an hour later Hall was in the vil- 
lage, where he was quickly surrounded by a crowd of men, women, and 
children, who had heard that a koh-lu-na had come. An igloo was soon 
built, and a log of walrus meat and blubber, weighing full 500 pounds, 
was drawn in and set before his party. Their breakfast on the next 
day was once more on cooked meat, after which meal the Ig-loo-lik 
an-ge-JiO made his appearance, and spent some time in an '^an-koot-ing^^- 
welcome service, the details of which Hall has not noted. 

During the first five days of the month of March, he lived in liis 
snow-house at Ig-loo-lik among the natives of this large tribe, and 
enjoyed his intercourse. He was well treated, his wants entirely sup- 



March, 1867.] Ig-loo-Uk Nutives. 301 

plied, and his igloo often crowded. Interested in watching the man- 
ners and customs of the place, and in listening to its traditions, he 
seems to have been so much occupied in observing the new things 
about him that he took but rough notes, intending at some future 
time to write them out more fully. This time never came. 

The following are a few of the names of the Innuits here met with, 
some of which found within Hall's full list will appear again on his 
second visit to this place, as well as on their visits to the whalers in 
the bay : Ook-pik (the Esliemuttd) and his wife, Kok-goot; Nuk-er-top- 
hig and his wife, Shuk-too-in; Ar-tung-un and his wife, Miik-e-ung ; 
Kia and his wife, Pou-de-lung-e-ute ; Ag-loo-ka; Man-u-mit: and the four 
boys, Noiv-yook^ Ard-er-rook, Pow-der, and Amer-wer-rik. Hall counted 
at one time forty-two women. While he was writing down his long 
list, the natives looked on with wonder, and showed yet more surprise 
when he was able to read their names out of his book. Among those 
around him he found some connections of Too-koo-li-too. 

The Ig-loo-lik people appeared to have frequent intercourse with 
Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay), from which place they obtained their 
knives and other weapons. The journey to the bay, they said, could 
be made, by rapid traveling, in four days. Ar-tung-un., who had 
come over from Tern Island, remembered Parry and Lyon, both of 
whom he said were very fond of little children. Lyon, he recollected, 
had danced the little ones, and sung nursery rhymes to them. Ar- 
tung-un himself could sing several songs learned from the sailors, and 
could count in English, tie said that he was once dead on board 
Parry's ship, and was brought to life by Parry's an-ge-ko bleeding him, 
and he showed Hall the scar on his arm made by the lancet. 

Wishing to be well posted in the ways of Ig-loo-lik an-ge-kos. Hall 



302 Hall Buys Ms Bogs. [March, iser. 

requested a professional visit, when two an-ge-hos came to his hut, and 
after receiving a file as compensation in advance, went through a per- 
formance of two hours for the relief of his face which was terribly 
sore from late frost-bites. He thought the performances really won- 
derful, and that these men are not impostors, but exercise their work 
in earnest. 

Having now secured the full good- will of Ig-loo-lik by presenting 
to the women full supplies of needles and beads, — going around himself 
among the igloos to deliver these, — he built a high, circular wall of snow 
close to his own hut for a trading mart. In the center of this he 
placed his sea-chest, and on it the different articles which he had 
brought for the purchase of the dogs. His list embraced files, hatch- 
ets, butcher and clasp knives, and women's or chopping knives, seal 
and walrus harpoons, pieces of old hoop-iron, old whale-irons to make 
into seal-spears, pieces of wood for arrows, bows and spear-handles, 



INNl'IT ARROWS. 



tin cups and pans, old meat-cans, needles, fish-hooks, fish-lines, pieces 
of tin for shaJc-koon (skin-dressing), old wrought nails and other bits of 
iron, beads, sheet-brass for kar-oons, and iron spoons. There was a 
crowd of men and women, some of whom had come from Tern Island 
to receive presents. He traded for fourteen dogs in as many minutes, 
setting his own price on each. 

On the 6th, he accompanied several families to a settlement out on 
the ice, near the walrus-grounds, and found there twenty-three igloos; 
an unusual neatness showing itself in their floors of snow, "iced and 
almost unstninod;" most of them being lined with seal and walrus 



march, 1867.1 VisU to Tcm Island. 303 

skins, making them quite warm. Their beds were of the most com- 
fortable kind, great pains being taken when making them to lay 
down, first a netting of short sticks or whalebone; then walrus or ooh- 
^ooA; skins; dried grass; then skins of some kind; then deer-skins. 
Few walruses were taken, but Hall bought two rolls of low, weighing 
in all about four thousand pounds, for which he gave some small pieces 
of hoop-iron, an old meat-can, and a stick of wood.* 

A few days after, a visit was made with Ou-e-la to Tern Island, to 
get the services of a native and more walrus meat and blubber. Nine 
sledges, each drawn by from twelve to twenty dogs, accompanied 
them, all bound for the seaHng-grounds. They made a lively scene, 
cracking their whips and racing. The sealers soon left the sledges, 
and, with their seal-dogs, went off to find seal-holes. On the arrival 
of Hall's party at the island, most of the men were found to be absent, 
but in a few igloos were wives and several widows. Some of these 
were very dark colored. Every one of them wanted needles and 
beads ; the wife of Ark-shank-u asking a needle for every child she had 
and one more for a child she was expecting. In the evening, this 
woman and the mother of the an-ge-ko entertained Hall with another 
performance, the woman adding to her share in it the small matter of 
finding in the head of her boy of fourteen years, a plentiful supply of 
creepers which she promptly transferred to her mouth. While Hall 
was witnessing this performance, the dogs ate up most of their harness 
which Ou- e-la had carelessly left on them. 

Getting ready to return from the island the next day, he found 
that Ou-e-la, without asking leave, had here made arrangements to 

* Cominancler (now Admiral) McClintock, on his final search for Franklin, 1859, readily 
bought reindeer outer coats for a knife each, and hired four Eskimos to build a snow-house for his 
pai-ty at the rate of a needle apiece. (Voyage of the Fox, p. 204.) 



304 



Presents Made to Hall. 



[iTIni«'h, 1S6?. 



take back with tlieni to Repulse Bay a whole family, with their goods. 
Hall's sledg-e was now driven by Oong-er-lool; who had a light load, 
but was a very poor driver, making- but three and a half miles per 
hour. At one time he made a mistake, whipping the lash of his whip 
across Hall's poor face, making it sting woefully; but he quickly cut 





INNl'IT HONE CIIAKM, Hi LOO-UK. 



INNUIT NKEDLK-CASE, 
IG-L()()-I,IK. 




INNUIT KNIFE AND SAW. 




INNUIT KNIFE. 



off the end of the lash, and seemed very sorry for the haruj done. 
Soon after this accident, a warm fur cap was made up for Hall by one 
of the Tern Island women. Among other presents to him, which were 
not a few, were " bone charms," held in high esteem, and a bone- 
handled knife, which was connected with the sad story of some Cum- 
berland Iidet natives, whose boats had been crushed in the ice, when 



march, iser.] Visit to Parry's Flag-Staff. 305 

nearlj^ all of them were starved to death. The knife had been used 
to scoop the brains out of the skulls of those who had been murdered 
to preserve the lives of the rest. Finding that Ou-e-la seemed deter- 
mined to take back with him to Repulse Bay the family with whom 
he had been bargaining-, Hall at first resolved to make his own quick 
return without him, by taking E-nu-men, a native whom he had 
engaged on Tern Island, as the driver of a full team for a sledge made 
of kow, with just enough food for six days. He could thus hope to 
get back in time to leave Repulse Bay for King William's Land by the 
1st of April. E-nu-men agreed to go on as fast as he could drive, leav- 
ing Ou-e-la to come as he pleased. But as the dogs got at this hoiv sled 
and nearly ate it up. Hall concluded that the journey could not be 
safely made on a sled which might at any moment be devoured by 
the hungry beasts; nor could Ou-e-la be trusted to bring down the 
other dogs in season, A tremendous gale, with falling and driving 
snow, was a further discouragement, the snow being very soft. 

On the 14th, a visit was made to Ar-lang-nuk, the spot where Parry 
erected his flag-staff, and then to Turton Bay. He found a pile or 
collection of stones where the flag-staff was deposited, and says: "On 
removing the snow, which only partially covered the stones, I found 
an excavated place in the center of the circular pile. I then lifted out 
several large stones, which had probably been thrown in when the flag- 
staff had been taken doAvn. Then I came to disintegrated limestone 
of such small size that one could hold fifty or sixty pieces in one hand. 
On removing a mass of this, I came to chips and fragmentary pieces 
of the flag-staff. After digging down two feet, I came to Avhere the 
limestones were frozen solid, thus preventing any further research 

downward. * * * Could I have dug down into the 
S. Ex. 27 20 



306 The Team Made Up. [March, iser. 

frozen mass of limestones, I doubt not I could have found the bottle 
containing the written document which Parry executed and deposited 
there. * * * 'y\^q piles, or collections, of stones about 
the flag-staff spot are placed in such order as to represent the four 
cardinal points of the true compass. * * * There is 
the furrow or trench, now evidently just as distinct as when first made 
from the sea-coast to the flag-staff spot ; — made in dragging the flag- 
staff from the sea to where it was raised. This furrow, made in the 
disintegrated limestone, is of rounded form, and from two to four 
inches in depth. I was greatly surprised to find this trench so perfect 
and unmistakable as to its cause." The name of the land at and 
around this spot is Koo-pra-look-too. 

While Hall was visiting a place of such historic interest, he was 
awaiting the return of Ou-e-la who had been sent off a few miles to 
get some of the dogs, but after his return, a heavy gale still prevented 
the setting out for Repulse Bay. He now gathered his teams, and 
rising at four o'clock in the morning of the next day, he distrib- 
uted the remainder of his presents and cut up his large sea-chest to 
give to the men to make their arrows, spears, and harpoons. A stake 
was then driven down, and the natives were called upon to tie to it all 
the dogs he had purchased, but he had now one cause of complaint — 
the only one named as to this people, of whom he speaks as among 
the kindest and most honest of their race. It was this : One dog was 
brought, small, earless, and poor; and on its being refused as not the 
one purchased, further compensation was asked for the one which was 
then brought forward. The additional pay was given, and this dog 
proved the best of the team. 

Having now succeeded in the object for which this severe journey 



IHarch, 1867. J RetUHl tO tllC BttlJ. 307 

had been made, he was eager to begin his return to the bay. But, 
when entirely ready to leave his encampment a few miles from Ig-loo- 
lik, he found that Ou-e-la had put on the sled a widow and her child, 
with all her traps; and he was proof against all expostulation as to the 
delay on the journey which this must cause. Hall then started with 
Ook-piJi and E-nu-men and his family on a how sled, and, quickly 
overtaking Ou-e-la, again remonstrated with him, ordering him to leave 
the widow behind. Succeeding by bribes in inducing the woman to 
stay, he finally put her off on the ice, getting the promise of several 
natives to take care of her return to her frieiids. But the loss of 
Ou-e-la's new wife proved a trouble greater to Hall than to the disap- 
pointed chief 

The travel was heavy, the ]je-to more than once broke, and some 
of the dogs were continually straying off; by night an advance of 
only five miles had been made. The teams were then found to be 
made up of forty-eight dogs, eighteen of which had been purchased. 
But as all were not at hand, the whole of the next day was spent in 
going to find the lost ones. Then, four more of them escaping in the 
night, Oot-pik went back for them, while the rest of the party pressed 
on to Ping-it-ka-lik. Here E-nu-men conducted the party to a ridge 
of limestone, on digging down a foot into which, they found two logs of 
old walrus, which they lashed on their kow sledge. From this point 
he chose a route almost always inshore from that by which Hall and 
Ou-e-la had gone up to Ig-loo-lik, and on this hne he crossed a bay on 
the west side of Fox Channel, extending fifteen miles to the south- 
west. Hall had not found this bay on Parry's chart, but did not con- 
sider this strange, as Parry's was a "marine survey only." From this 
bay he passed into a lake twenty-five miles in length, lat. 68° 45', long. 
82° W., on which lake they made their hjloo by the side of a ridge of 



308 Oii-c-Ms Conduct. iMarch, iser. 

ice extending' as far as the eye could reach. Near it, beneath the 
snow, water was easily obtained, and the frozen kow, placed in this, 
was thawed in three hours. 

He now experienced a renewal of the trials which Oti-c-la had 
given him on his route to Igloo-lik. Repeatedly on that journey he 
had shown a selfish disposition, especially in helping himself most 
freely to the best of the provision, of which his wife also secretly 
took a large share At Ig-loo-lik, to Hall's disadvantage, Ou-e-la 
had purchased for himself several dogs, and now, on the homeward 
route, he proved exceedingly careless of Hall's team, while liberally 
feeding his own. To this he added an increased exhibition of evil 
temper, the source of Avhich was probably to be found in his disap- 
pointment in not obtaining the widow. He had cordially agreed to 
go on this journey for the very purpose of adding to the number of 
his wives, but Hall, when consenting to this, had not anticipated that he 
would bring down a family with all their goods. His evil conduct 
reached its worst on the 2 2d, when he took advantage of Hall's sick- 
ness from continuil living on walrus-meat, to feast himself and wife 
more than once, refused a fair supply of food to either Hall or 
Oot-pik, and subjected the white man, in his feeble state, to the most 
menial services. He ordered him to bring in the snow-water for 
drinking, and, with other services, to put the kow sledge on top of the 
igloo when it was necessary to keep it from the dogs. The weak state 
of the invalid, with the renewed feeling that he was in the hands of a 
savage, induced him to submit to these orders. He says in his notes 
of the day, " I had great reason at times to shoot the savage down on 
the spot, and know not how long it may be before I shall have to do 
so terrible an act to save my own dear life." But he more wisely 
reserved his punishment until they should reach the ships. 



narch, 1867.] Thc Ncw Disappointment 309 

E-nu-men and Oot-pik caught the same spirit, so far as to make 
inexcusable delays ; and these were increased by the usual experi- 
ences of gales which bound Hall a day or more at a time, and to- 
ward the last of the journey, by the complete giving-out of the how 
sledge, on the temperature rising to 1G°. All the dogs were then 
attached to the large sledge in the midst of a furious snow-drift. 
They were showing their faintness for want of food by their tails 
standing straight out, instead of curling over their backs. As the 
result of all these causes of delay, the speed was never more than 
three miles per hour, and generally less. On the 24th, however, they 
had struck the land, from which their course was nearly direct to the 
head of the bay ; on the 31st, they again sighted the ships. 

This journey for dogs had cost Hall fifty-two more days of pre- 
cious time, during which his sufferings appear to have been borne 
witli his usual fortitude. He now found that his proposed journey to 
King William's Land was again utterly arrested. Two months before, 
when he had his men seemingly secured, the captains' plea had been 
that they eould not spare the dogs. He had now returned from 
Ig-loo-lik with his own full team; but the whaling season is open, and 
he is behind time; they cannot spare a man. Hall could punish 
Ou-e-Ia, as he now did, by seizing all his dogs and holding them until 
he had given penitent pledges for future good conduct. But it is not 
surprising that for a number of days he lay sick and almost hopeless 
in his igloo. His feelings, however, and his relations to the masters of 
tlie vessels will be best learned from the following letter, addressed to 

one of them at this time : 

My Snow House Encampment, 

Repulse Bay, April 12, 1867. 
My Dear Sir : Your uote of this date, soliciting my company on board 
your vessel to tea tliis evening, bas been received. I thank you lor this kindly 



310 Hairs Letter Ahout the Men. [Appii, iser. 

request, for by it I judge, if my heart is not amiss, that you did not really intend 
to wound my feelings, and do me and the cause I represent the injustice you did 
on board the Glacier last Friday evening. Allow me to state that I am not 
aware of ever having entertained for a moment any thought to injure your feel- 
ings in any way. The very nature of the mission to which I have devoted the 
last seven years of my life has led me to do all in. my power to get to King Will- 
iam's Land and its neighboring lands as soon as possible, and, therefore, I have 
never swerved from this princix^le, which has been to do all in my power to live 
on good terms with every man, that I might have his co-operation in accomplish- 
ing the end I have in view, to wit, the rescue of some survivor or survivors of Sir 
John Franklin's Expedition, whom I have believed might still be living, and that 
I might recover some of the journals of that expedition, and otherwise gain most 
important information relating to the fate of all the missing ones. 

Obstacle after obstacle has been before me, but perseverance has overcome 
them all except the last. I have done all, as now seemeth to me, that I could do 
to remove it. How sorrowfully disa])pointed will the noble-hearted Mr. Grinnell 
be, and the thousands of good hearts of our countiymen, and of other portions of 
the civilized world, when they find that I haA^e been obliged to turn back just 
when I should, and might well, push on, and quickly tinish up the work before 
me ! Believe me, captain, when I tell you that I feel in my own heart that with 
the renewal of your warm co-operation at once, or in a very few days, I and the 
previously-organized sledge party can this spring perform my purposed sledge 
journey in season to be back here the latter part of June ; and that by your thus 
doing there will be no occasion for organizing another party of like kind here- 
after. If you knew how deeply I regret the withdrawal of your helping hand, 
just at the moment when, as I feel, it is most needed, I am sure you would ex- 
tend it again without a moment's delay. I pray you consider this whole matter, 
not as mine alone, but as Mr. Grinnell's, and the thousands who have their eyes 
upon me, and feel a deep interest in all that pertains to Sir John Franklin's lost 
expedition. 

Excuse me, captain, if I am not there to tea, for really I feel so overwhelmed 
in grief at my disappointment in not making the sledge journey for which I have 
so long been i)reparing, tliat I am sure I could not contribute one jot to any one's 
social enjoyment. 

Most respectfully, 

C. F. HALL. 



HAPTER 



JOURNEY TO CAPE WEYNTON AND WINTER OF 18G8. 



CHAPTER XI. 



Anxiety for the safety of the cache made in 186G — Hall's party sets out to visit it, 
May 1 — Route by Gibson's Cove, Walrus Island, and Iwillik to Christie Lake — 
Sails raised on the sled — Snow-blindness— Miles Lake reached — Strange Innuits 
seen — The Sea of Ak-koo-lee and Point Hargrave reached — Expedients to hurry 
UP THE dogs — Cape Weynton reached — The cache changed — Return to Beacon 
Hill — A week's musk-ox hunt— Survey of Ships Harbor Islands — Native supersti- 
tion — Hall's purchase of supplies — Capture of a walrus — The hiring of five 
white men— Winter quarters. 

No new journey now to King William's Land! In addition to this 
extreme disappointment, there came upon Hall the uncomfortable 
remembrance of the deposit of provisions made at Cape Weynton, a 
twelvemonth before, which he had so fondly hoped would serve him 
on going out again at this very time. The safety of the cache, which 
had never been a certainty, now became a matter of deep concern from 
the accounts received from the whalers of the conduct of the Pelly Bay 
natives, who had been laying their hands on many small articles 
belonging to the ships, and even on the tents left on shore. There 
was reason, therefore, to apprehend that on their return home, on 
which the tribe had now set out, they would destroy this advance 
deposit, which otherwise would be so much gain whenever Hall could 
renew his journey. He must go now to the Cape. 

Expecting to be absent not longer than twelve days, he gained 

31.3 



314 Sledge Trip to Cape Weynton. riway, iser. 

the consent of the captains to take Frank Leonard and Peter Bayne, 
of the Ansell Gibbs; and Silas Norton, of the Concordia; and with 
these and his own two Eskimos, left Ships Harbor Islands May 1. He 
had a team of nineteen dogs for a large sled, the full load on which 
weighed 1,700 pounds; several Innuit friends assisted in loading up 
and starting it. Over the smooth sea-ice their first advance averaged 
two and a half miles per hour. Passing next over two miles of rough 
ice before entering Gibson's Cove, at noon they arrived at Walrus 
Island; at 2 p. m. they were opposite Iwillik ; and at 10 p. m. com- 
pleted their first igloo. The keen appetite of travel was satisfied by a 
hearty meal of raw deer-meat, coffee, and bread, with rank whale- 
blubber for butter; and the dogs had a small meal to prevent their 
running back to the islands. 

The travel through the early part of the next day was under sail 
hoisted on the sled to assist the dogs, until the wind died away and 
the sun came out. The sails were then furled and the sled re-shod. 
Niffht found them under a hig-h bluff hill on the east side of Christie 
Lake, the choice of which spot was made in the expectation that water 
could be obtained by removing some of the snow from the huge bank. 
In this the party were not disappointed. 

The next day they were housed by a gale from the north-north- 
west, which had set in on the night previous, accompanied by flying 
snow so thick that one could not see an arm's length, nor visit the 
water-supply; on digging through the snow, however, Ebierbing found 
water within the encampment. All hands then turned out and built 
a tooksoo (outer igloo) to protect the dogs, and "preserve their fat for 
working service." When the gale broke, the carcass of an old Polar 
bear, which had been brought along for them, was chopped up and 



may, 1867.1 Sledge Trip to Cape Wcynton. 315 

distributed. In the evening the dome of the igloo was built up higher, 
as it was beginning to come down. 

On the 4th, Ebierbing and Norton were painfully affected with 
snow-blindness, and again a strong breeze with flying drift prevailed; 
but at 1.40 p. m. the extreme end of Christie Lake was reached, and here, 
at the '' Lower Narrows," a band of sixteen deer was seen; this excited 
the dogs to increased speed. At 2.55, the party crossed the very short 
portage between Dr. Rae's One-mile Lake and his Six-mile Lake, from 
the northwest end of which last they passed on to a pond, and at the 
end of the next half hour descended the 100-foot bank spoken of by 
Rae, and made their third igloo on Miles Lake. On the portage 
between the lakes, a long line of stones was found, set up on a sharp 
ridge of rocks, to frighten the deer and force them into a particular 
route. During the day, Norton, who was leading the party, had sud- 
denly halted his team on discovering what seemed to him the foot- 
prints of a man; they were only some of nature's freaks with the 
snow. The travel had averaged two and a half miles per hour, 
although the snow was quite deep, and not hardened bv the northward 
or westerly gales. The snow-blindness of Ebierbing and of Frank 
and Norton increased ; yet the journey was resumed after having 
made, for use on the return trip, a deposit of one-third of the provis- 
ions under the snow bed-platform of the hut which they now left. 

Strange Innuits were here discovered crossing Miles Lake, and 
coming at first directly toward Hall while loading up his sledge. They 
proved to be ^^Koong-ou-e-lik" ("Mind-your-own-business") and the big 
son of Too-shoo-art-thar-i-u^ who, with three dogs, were drawing a 
musk-ox skin filled with the beef The hours from midnijrht to 3 a. m. 
were spent in endeavoring to get again upon the tracks of these natives, 



31 G Snow-hlind. (""ay, is«r. 

in consequence of the loss of four dogs which had straj-ed off, scenting 
their musk-ox meat Much hindered by the thickly-faUing snow, Hall 
and Peter Bayne succeeded in recovering the dogs at the igloos where 
the Pelly Ba}^ men were sleeping. No one of these showed his head, 
but various stolen articles were observed lying outside of the hut. 
Half an hour later, an advance was again made toward the sea of 
Ak-koo-lee on the same route which had been followed in 1866. 
During the day Frank and Norton, blindfolded, sometimes rode upon 
the sledge, at others walked behind, resting upon it; at 6.35 p. m., the 
party halted on the bed of a river. Thier next igloo, on the 6th, was 
made at 10.15 a. m., the travel having been made during the night to 
prevent snow-blindness. At 10 p. m. of the same day, again starting 
out, they had the misfortune to run off a steep bank 50 feet high, which 
threw all into consternation, and nearly broke their necks. The acci- 
dent, however, delayed them but ten minutes. 

On the 7th, they arrived on the ice of Ak-koo-lee, and at 4.25 a. ni. 
Point Hargrave was reached. Ascending the heights of this point, 
Hall endeavored with his telescope to ascertain the possibility of push- 
ing out from the land, but found the appearance of the ice to be 
entirely too rough for sledging ; he was restricted to his old route on 
the ice-foot. The water carried in the fur-covered keg for re-icing 
the sled-runners failed, and the keg itself was soon afterward unfortu- 
nately lost from the sled. No one had ridden on the march of this 
day except the faithful cook, Too-koo-li-too, whose occupation allowed 
her little sleep at night. At 8.30 a. m., the fifth igloo was made at the 
west point of Cape Lady Pelly. 

At 4 p. m.. May 9, Hall was delighted to see by the aid of his 
glass, the rock beside which were deposited the greater part of the 



May, 1867.] Enticements for Hungry Dogs. 317 

stores placed' there in 1866. At noon he had with great difficulty 
taken an "indifferent observation" of the sun, which gave for his lati- 
tude 67° 50' N. ; a gale with snow had prevailed during the preced- 
ing twent3^-four hours. His anxiety to complete this journey and set 
at rest the question of the safety of the cache will be inferred from 
such incidents as the following: His "medicine" (treatment?) for 
the snow-blind — i. e., tying up their eyes — had proved a charming 
success. He polished the icing of his sled-runners by rubbing it on 
with his bare hands, and found that after the first trial he could by 
himself easily draw Too-koo-li-too, Frank, Silas, and Peter ; all tliree 
seated upon a full load. To hurry up the tired and hungry dogs he 
had adopted several expedients ; among these, sending some of the 
men ahead, who, with a deer-bone and knife, at one time made strokes 
as though cutting off meat, and at another cut up small pieces 
of his Ig-loo-lik sledge and threw them into the air now and then 
ahead, letting the dogs see that the pieces were kow. This experiment 
succeeded even in the case of a fagged-out animal in the rear when 
he was transferred to the front ; the poor creature's efforts to get at 
the much-desired meat were a great incentive to his followers. These 
devices were practiced at a time when the weather was very thick. 
At 11.10 p. m., he found himself by the side of the rock near which, 
in the previous spring, he had erected a little pile of stones represent- 
ing Faith, Hope, and Charity, and, to his great satisfaction, on ham- 
mering loose the stones from his cache, he discovered that all had 
been unmolested except that a fox had eaten a portion of the ook- 
gook skin which covered the trunk, and that Arctic mice had been 
busily nibbling at his tent. At midnight, having loaded the sledge 
with all the stores of the cache, he returned to his i/7/00, when the 



318 ■ The Deposit Changed. [May, iser. 

whole party rested until 5 p. m. of the next day. The icing on the 
sled-runners had proved so solid on the night previous, as to be unin- 
jured even when the dogs were flying over the rocks of the Cape — or 
blviff, as he thinks this point should rather be named, as "it is no cape 
at all, but simply a little hill rising above the low snow-clad coast." 

Hall could not forget the necessity of having a cache certainly 
awaiting him on the first renewed advance which he could make to- 
ward King William's Land, ^t marks an indomitable will and faith in 
his final success that, although disappointed in the three preceding 
years, he should again deposit at a distance from him, such valuable 
stores to await the issues of a fourth twelve month. His purpose at 
this date was to leave the greater part of the stores at the first place 
on the coast where he could find loose stones to cover them ; he felt 
satisfied they would be safer at such a place than at tlie Cape, 
for he had learned that his apprehensions of the Pelly Bay men were 
well grounded. 

Happily he found a spot seemingly every way suited for the 
purpose. His notes, with their usual precision, record this location of 
the deposit: "Cape Weynton, N. 62° E. (by compass) : Range of hills 
in which deposit was made running S. 45° E. and N. 45° W. : Deposit 
made near the face of hill, thirty-three of my paces from a little pile 
of stones on top of a rock." 

The Return Journey occupied, in all, the days from lip. m.. May 
10, to 11 p. m.. May 17. Hall arrived at Beacon Hill at 6.30 a. m. of 
the 17th, and at Ships Harbor Islands at the date last named. The 
notes of this journey, although they record the usual details, present 
no very special items of interest, except the appearance of a much 



May, 1867.1 Betum to Bcttcon Hill. 319 

swifter and more comfortable advance than on the outward trip. The 
state of the weather, the condition of the ice, and the hghtened sled 
were all in favor of the return. At the igloo where, on his journey 
out. Hall had recovered his straying dogs and found the scattered 
articles and the Pelly Bay men, he had again a sight of these natives, 
and purchased from them some musk-ox meat. Game had been 
scarce, and the dogs more than once unusually hungry. The deposit 
made at their third igloo in going up, they now found ripped up by 
the wolves, and the musk-ox meat was all gone. At Beacon Hill, 
Frank, (whom Hall the least excuses as his " lieutenant and the re- 
sponsible party"), together with Norton and Peter, left him and his 
two Eskimos to get forward to Ships Harbor Island as best they 
could. Captains Potter and White, with their usual courtesy, sent out 
to Beacon Hill an invitation to breakfast with them on board ship, 
where he found himself again comfortably at home. 

After a week's rest from this trip, he started off on a musk-ox 
hunt. His party was made up of Captains Kilmer and Baker, with 
seven native men and Too-koo-li-too. The hunting-grounds were 
above Miles Lake ; the outward journey and return made 220 miles of 
travel. Forty musk-cattle were seen and a large number of deer, as 
well as of marmots. Twenty-seven musk-oxen, seven deer, and five 
marmots were killed, and the party drove home well satisfied with 
their three fully-laden sledges, drawn by forty dogs. They had been 
absent from the ships eight days, during part of which Captain Kil- 
mer had been affected with snow-blindness, making his journey by 
walking at times behind the sledge, and at others, riding on it, but 
still doing good work on the hunt. 

No notes are to be found of Hall's occupations during the first 



320 Fragmentary Notes. [June, iser. 

nineteen days of June ; and the same remark is, unfortunately, true 
in regard to a large part of the remainder of the year. The record, 
therefore, which closes this chapter, being made up in part from frag- 
mentary memoranda, will necessarily be brief. It has not been 
found possible to determine whether he intermitted writing his jour- 
nals, or whether they were written and afterward lost. The precis- 
ion with which he had up to this time jotted down the minutest details 
of his work and its surroundings, induces the belief that he must have 
written out his notes of the occurrences of the long period from June 
to February of the next year. On the other hand, it were not a forced 
inference which might be drawn from his fearful disappointments in 
the preceding spring, that he did not renew the journalizing which had 
so often heavily tasked his energies and health. But, again, it is to be 
remarked that thus far the utmost care appears to have been taken by 
him of every paper and book ; deposits of these being made when 
moving from place to place, the bearings of which deposits were noted 
and put into the hands of faithful persons who might find and take to 
the United States an account of what work he had done, should his own 
life fail ; and, still further, that, when on a subsequent sledge journey, 
a few of his notes were scattered by tlie wind, he carefully recorded 
the fact. The following are the chief incidents occurring witliin the 
summer months, which have been found within the occasional jour- 
nalizing seemingly practiced. 

Returning from the musk-ox hunt, lie took up his residence on 
one of the islands near the ships, which were eagerly looking for tlieir 
release from the ice ; and during the latter part of the month he was 
again busy in surveying, making observations, and studying his Arctic 
books. From prominent points he daily took sextant angles, meas- 



\^ 



H 



%■• 




wq-ioH o? »^vz>^;^ 




< 



tn 

P 

o 
cq 
p: 

I— I 

7} 



/ 



July, i86r.] Visits Between Ship and Shore 321 

ured his base-lines, <again sketched the coast-line, and collected much 
material for its further delineation. For the benefit of his friends 
the whalers, he made a special survey of the group known as Ships 
Harbor Islands, to which reference has been more than once already 
made. Finding that when his compass was carefully placed in posi- 
tion and was undisturbed, the needle still shifted in a very short time 
from four to five degrees, he made for himself a rough instrument, 
which, he says, answered the purpose of a theodolite. The draughts- 
man who made the accompanying map has found that the observations 
made by this instrument agree well. His work was uncomfortably 
interrupted by the frequent occurrence of rain-storms, one of which 
continued throughout five days. It cleared off the snow from the 
land and formed pools of water upon the ice of the bay. 

The natives for the most of the time were scattered : some were 
at Oo-gla-ri-your Island hunting deer; others on the land fishing for 
salmon. Mam-mark, who had often made one of his part}^, died be- 
fore the month closed, among her friends who were sealing on the 
ice. Hall's cordial intercourse with the whalers had been promptly 
renewed, frequent visits being exchanged between ship and shore. 
Several of their boats' crews had been encamped on Beach Point for 
some weeks, having been prevented by the ice from getting down the 
Welcome to Whale Point. When some of these crews had come up to 
their ships for supplies, and found, after a weary tramp over the ice, that 
their captains and nearly all the natives were absent sealing. Hall 
cheerfully assisted them by loaning his own sledge and dogs to take 
back provisions to the needy. 

On the 8d of Jul}', a party of Ig-loo-lik natives, numbering 

ten men, twelve women, and twenty-seven children, came down to 

g. Ex. 27 21 



322 July the Fourth. [juiy, iser. 

visit the ships ; among them Hall recognized many of the friends made 
on his visit in the spring. His former impressions of the dangers 
through which he was passing from the superstitions of the Iwillik 
natives was strengthened now again by Too-koo-li-too, who said that 
the wife of Oot-pik attributed the death of Queen Emma to the fact 
that his own Eskimo, Ebierbing, had caught a certain kind of seal. 
OM-e-?a himself had said the same thing. Hall writes of this: "No won- 
der our lives have been in dang-er much of the time while living with 
these Iwillik people. I knew long ago that they thought me the 
cause of the death of Shoo-she-ark-nook and Ar-too-a, but not until now 
did I know that the death of one of Ou-e-lcUs wives was thought by 
them to be caused by Ebierbing. It seems that the wife cleaned the 
skin of Ebierbing's seal of its hair and blubber. Oot-pik^s wife de- 
clines to eat any of our seal-meat, abundance of which we have in 
our tent, because he was the one who killed the seals. She had been 
told by the Iwillik Innuits not to eat any of any seal of Ebierbing's 
killing, for if she did she would die." 

On the 4th, Hall dined on the Black Eagle with the masters of 
the ships in the harbor, and the national flag was displayed from the 
mast-head of each vessel and from his own tupih By the 7th of the 
month open water could be seen to the southward ; it extended itself 
by the 9th above Oo-gla-ri-your Island, now named by the whale- 
men, Hall Island. On the night of the 10th, ice of the thickness 
of common window-glass formed on the pools of water of the open 
spaces amid the sea-ice near the shore, although Hall's thermom- 
eter stood at 40°. Mosquitoes had made their appearance as early 
as the 4th. 

On the 24th, the steamer Nimrod, from St. John's (Capt. E. Chapel), 



August, i86r.] Purchases Made from the Ships. 323 

came into the harbor, having on board his brother, Capt Christopher 
Chapel, and thirty others, who had been picked up on the ice of Hud- 
son's Strait, near North Bluff, where their ship, the Pioneer, was 
crushed. From the Nimrod, Hall obtained a heavy cotton sail and 
500 pounds of sea-bread, in payment for which he gave an order on 
his steadfast friend in New York, Mr. Grinnell ; for a number of use- 
ful small articles he gave in return deer skins and meat. From an 
English vessel, which came in, August 2, he procured a number of 
hatchets, knives, saws, powder-horns, daggers, and smaller articles, for 
his future trading, paying for these with 248 pounds of his bone, 
valued at $1 per pound. He received a present of a Nautical Almanac 
for the year 1868. 

From the whalers already named and from others coming in, he 
completed his purchases of provisions and stores for the coming year 
and for a new journey; among his latest supplies were those from the 
schooner Era, commanded by Capt. G. E. Tyson, afterward one of the 
officers of the United States steamer Polaris. His indebtedness on 
these last accounts amounted to $455.06, the value, as he estimated it, 
of the remainder of his whalebone on the Ansell Gibbs. It must be 
said in justice to him that his purchases and his orders for payment 
were made in good faith, proof of which is found in a letter from Mr. 
Grinnell, dating after the return of the whaler, which letter acknowl- 
edges the receipt of monies on Hall's account from Captain Kilmer, 
of this ship. Each of the captains, while they remained in Repulse 
Bay, made him valuable presents, including some useful books. 

On the 13th of August, he went over to Pi-tik-tou-yer, to remain 
there for the purpose of catching whales. He found the natives living 
in some twenty tupiks; but a few days after, most of the men moved 



324 



The Starving Natives Assisted. 



[September, 1867. 



off to Lyon's Inlet to hunt for deer, some going by land from the head 
of Haviland Bay and others by boats through Hurd's Channel. Hall 
sent one crew in the Sylvia and another in the Lady Franklin to the 
east side of the bay to hunt deer, but they soon returned completely 
drenched with the rains. A second crew sent out for a whale were 
equally unsuccessful, and the women and children on shore, number- 
ing twenty-eight, who had been de- 
pending on him for food, could receive 
nothing except some bread and the 
walrus-hide given him by Captain 
Tyson for dog-food. He then sent 
some of the white men who were 
with him on another deer-hunt, and, 
while M^aiting their return, distributed 
to the hungry people all the provis- 
ions he had, and then returned to his 
old place on the island, taking with him Ar-mou and his family, one of 
whom was sick. Two days afterward, his party returned with two 
deer, and one of the Whalers having caught a whale, the necessities of 
the Innuits were relieved. Two of their well-filled boats had sighted 
the capture from the head of the bay, and hastened down to feed on 
the skin. Hall towed the carcass on shore for dog-food. He found 
that the dogs had been eating the bodies of some of the Innuits, 
who had been insecurely buried. 

On the 1st of September he again took up his residence at Iwillik, 
from which place he made vigorous efforts to secure whales or walrus, 
but the stormy weather forbade success ; the southeast wind at times 
driving the ice in upon the shore, and a northeaster at other times 




HALL'S BOAT-LOG. 



spptembcr, 1867.] A Walfus Sccured. 325 

clearing out the harbor. The snow was beginning to fall and the ice 
rapidly formed to the thickness of half an inch. 

On the first favorable day for walrusing, he went out with some 
of his men, and after a long fight secured one walrus. Four had been 
sighted lying asleep on the ice; but at the first attack the iron thrown 
by Ar-mou struck only the folds of the hide of one animal and gave 
the alarm b}^ which all escaped. Later in the day, Antoine, a Portu- 
guese man of Hall's party, threw an iron into another walrus ; but his 
line fouling, he was compelled to cut it, and on Ebierbing's getting into 
the bow to throw another weapon, he was caught by the line and 
knocked overboard, escaping by a long jump to the ice. Coming up 
to two other walruses, the crew fastened the harpoon in one which 
turned fiercely to attack the boat with his tusks, when a well-directed 
rifle-shot put an end to the fight. The carcass was towed to the head 
of Gibson's Cove, and there cut up and cached. 

On the 1 7th, he went into winter quarters two miles east of Beacon 
Hill. It seems certain that he had at this time with him five men, 
whom he had hired from the ships, whose names, so far as can be 
learned, were: Frank Lailor, of the Glacier; Peter Bayne, of the 

Ansell Gibbs; and Pat Coleman, Antoine , and John S. Spear- 

min, from some of the other vessels the names of which are not given. 
These men had been already in his service during the month previous, 
as will be inferred from their having taken part in the deer, walrus, 
and whale-hunts. No executed contract has been found, but from a 
blank rough draft appearing to have been drawn up in August, 
the following terms of service and compensation are gathered : The 
men were to be hired for one year, or for a longer period if no oppor- 
tunity should offer within the year for their return to the United 



326 The Contract with Five White Men. [October, iser. 

States. Their services were to be of any kind that Hall might 
require and deem most essential, and they were well informed that 
their labors would not be light or their dangers small, and that the 
preservation of their lives would oftentimes depend upon their own 
exertions, as their food and clothing must be acquired from the icy 
seas and the wild hunting-grounds of the north. The party of the 
second part (for the contract was evidently with each man imder the 
approval of the captain of his ship) agreed that in consideration of 
$500 jDer year, he would render the services required of him with 
strict obedience to each and every order of his commander, and 
would receive such a recompense as he would fairly deserve for faith- 
fulness, energ}^, and honest devotion to his work. But neither service 
nor pay were to be continued longer at the furthest than to the date 
from which a passage could be taken on a good ship from Repulse 
Bay in the Fall of 1868. 

From the time of his going into winter quarters, and throughout 
the following months of October, November, and December, and the 
first month of the year 1868, Hall seems to have kept no continuous 
journal. His provision-lists during these months are made out for 
eight persons at the encampment, showing that the five white men and 
Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, with himself, made up the party. The 
lists contain in detail the items of Arctic sustenance — of deer necks, 
heads, ribs, and belly meat, backbone and legs, with tood-noo, walrus- 
meat and blubber muk-tiik, and a small quantity of salmon. This 
provision, in addition to what he drew from the stores received from 
the whalers (which included a few cans of preserved meat, beef and 
mutton, with a little dried fruit), would seem to have been ample for 
the necessities of life; the footing up of his lists for seventy-three days 



ivovember, 1S67.J Winter Quarter s fov a Third Year. 327 

being- 1,637 pounds, or an average per day of about 22 pounds for 
the party. Up to the first week in November, his fragmentary notes 
show that fifty-one deer had been killed. He trained his men to hard- 
ships and busied himself with new plans. He had with him packages 
of the New York papers, and particularly the Journal of Commerce, 
in which his own letters to the United States had been more than once 
published. His friend Mr. Grinnell, who had sent out these with his 
renewed supplies, had expected him home in September. The letters 
of friendship from Mr Grinnell and from his daughter Sylvia had 
informed him that a special ship would have been sent for him, had it 
not been known that at least two whalers were near him in the bay. 
But these letters also advised him that, from what he had already 
written home, much anxiety was felt among his friends not only in 
the United States but in England to hear more of Franklin's men. 
Hall determined to endure another Arctic winter, and then, if possi- 
ble, strike once more for King William's Land. 



Chapter X T. 



JOURNEYS TO THE STRAIT OF FURY AND HECLA AND 
TO LYON'S INLET, AND FOURTH WINTER. 



FEBRUAUY, 11J68, TO MARCH, 1869. 



CHAPTEE XII. 



Hall purposes to visit the northern part of Melville Peninsula — Eeasons for this 

JOURNEY in place OF ONE TO KiNG WiLLIAM'S LaND — THE INFORMATION FROM THE NA- 
TIVES OF A MONUMENT AND TRACES OF WHITE MEN SEEN THERE SINCE 1863 — PURCHASES THE 
FEW DOGS STILL ALIVE AMONG THE NATIVES — HiS PROVISION-LIST FOR THE JOURNEY AND 
ARTICLES OF BARTER — LOSES SOME OF HIS NOTES BY THE GALE — EnCAMPS OX THE ICE 
NEAR THE OOGLIT ISLANDS — CONVERSES WITH THE NATIVES — VISITS PaRRY BaY WITH 

Koo-Loo-A — Finds a monument— Digs in vain for the cache — Finds the remains of 
A tenting-place once occupied by white men — Discovers Grinnell Lake and Bre- 
voort River — Visits Amherst Island — Returns to Tern Island — Holds further 
conversations with the Natives — Receives several maps drawn by the Eskimos — 
Visits Gifford River to find another tenting-place — Returns to Repulse Bay — 
Salmon-fishing and deer-hunts— Mutiny of one of the five white men — Loss of 
life — Capture of a second whale — Journey to Lyon's Inlet — Survey — Discharge 

OF THE four white MEN — HaLL DRIES VENISON AND PREPARES PEMMICAN IN HIS OVTS 

IGLOO — Plans for a new sledge journey to King William's Land. 

Before the winter of 1867-68 closed, every preparation had been 
made for renewing the advance of the preceding year. But Hall now 
felt himself suddenly and unexpectedly called to that part of Melville 
Peninsula which borders on Fury and Hecla Strait. His reasons for 
making this journey in place of going to King William's Land, were in 
his own mind sufficient to induce the change ; they are here given in 
nearly the language of his own notes, unimportant details only being 
omitted. 

In the latter part of October, 1867, Papa-te-wa, a brother of ^r- 
mou, had told him that a few years before, an Innuit had seen, some- 

331 



332 The Monument on Melville Peninsula. [January, ises. 

where in the neighborhood of Ig-loo-hk, two stone buildings, " not 
such as Innuits ever made, but quite large, long, wide, and high." To 
this story, which appeared quite improbable, Hall at first paid but lit- 
tle attention ; but a few days after this, Ebierbing showed Papa, on 
Parry's chart, the country around Ig-loo-lik ; and as soon as the na- 
tive understood the chart, he pointed out the place where these build- 
ings had been found, and gave the name of the Innuit wlio had seen 
them when on his deer-hunt. It was on the south side of the strait, 
about half way between Cape Englefield and Amherst Island, and the 
buildings, he said, were on a low shelving shore near some bold high- 
land. Papa said of the Innuit, Kia, who had seen them, that he was 
a man who would never lie. He gave as a reason for Kia's close 
observation of every object in that country, his consciousness that his 
own life had long been in perpetual danger from the relatives of one 
who had been slain by one of his kinsmen ; for, according to Innuit 
belief, the soul of the slain can never rest until some near relative of 
the slayer shall pay the debt with his blood. Of Papa himself, Hall 
says that he was a good-natured, intelligent, and truthful native, who 
had lived five years near Ponds Bay and many more at Ig-loo-lik. 

Frequent conversations were, therefore, held with Papa, and with 
his friend Ik-ku-mer, to learn everything on this new and interesting 
subject ; and in the early part of February following. Hall sent Ebier- 
bing and Frank Lailor to a native village, twenty miles distant on the 
ice, to ask that some of the natives of Ig-loo-lik who were there would 
visit him. They returned with Quasha, his wife, and Eek-choo-ar-choo, 
whom Hall notes also as "Jerry" — a name probably received from 
the whalemen. From these natives he learned with further interest 
that within the past three years they had seen near Ig-loo-lik two 



januorr, 1 868.] Tlw WliUc Men SecH Since Rae's Visit. 333 

white men, "one a tall man, the other considerably shorter." On fur- 
ther close questioning- them, his belief in their story was confirmed by 
the seeming consistency of their statements. They had seen Dr. Rae 
at Pelly Bay seven years after his first visit to their country, and had 
remained near Iwillik seven winters and a half, after Rae went home 
from his second visit ; after which they went to Ig-loo-lik, and two 
years later, saw the kob-lu-nas. Some additional particulars which they 
gave strengthened their story ; among these was an account of a time 
of suff"ering by starvation which they had experienced. Hall says 
that their statements, with other news gained from the Innuits, gave 
him inexpressible joy, " for it brought the story down as late as 1864, 
at which time some of Franklin's companions were alive near Fury 
and Hecla Strait." This was his strong hope. 

A short time afterward, he sent a large load of walrus-meat to 
relieve the suff"ering people of this village, numbering fifty-five per- 
sons, and heard further from them that four years after Eae's last visit a 
ship's beam, painted black on one side, and a long and large mast, had 
been seen on the east shore near the southern terminus of Committee 
Bay. The Pelly Bay men also were reported as having seen since Dr. 
Rae's departure, on the shores of Simpson's Peninsula, a stone monument 
having on its top a thin stone pointing toward Ig-loo-lik. Not satisfied 
without making every eftbrt to learn the reputation in which QuasJia 
and his wife were held for truthfulness. Hall now made close inquiries 
for this of Ar-goo-moo-too-lik whom he had long trusted, and sent to the 
village to question the natives on the same point. The replies were 
every way satisfactory, except that Quasha, in his younger days, had 
been known as fond of telling yarns ; his wife was considered entirely 
truthful. Still later in the month, Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too visited 



334 Did all of Franklin's Party go to Back's River f [January, ises. 

QuashaJs wife to obtain further news and the minute particulars of the 
accounts already received. On their return Hall wrote : " The news 
relative to there having- been seen white men near Ig-loo-lik between 
1849 and 18fi5, proves to be true beyond all question in my mind. 
Certainly I am bound at once for Ig-loo-lik and Ynvy and Hecla 
Strait. There is not a shadow of doubt about my duty, which is to 
fly to the rescue of the probable survivors of Franklin's Expedition." 
It will not be forgotten that this rescue was the chief one of the 
two objects named in all his appeals and lectures from the date of 
1860, when he had begun his training for these expeditions by tenting 
out on the hills of Cincinnati. He now yearned to be off to the strait, 
which he calls " a hallowed spot." Papa told him that he and all the 
Ig-loo-lik natives believed the accounts which have been now given, 
and that some of the survivors miglit he still found alive; he was will- 
ing to assist in the search. Hall appears to have been impressed with 
the great probability that all of Franklin's party had not continued on 
the hopeless route to Back's River. His hopes of this resulted from 
reflections like those lately expressed by Dr. Rae, as found in ''Smith's 
Arctic Expeditions, 1878." Rae says: 

What struck me at the time, as it does still, was the great mistake made by 
Franklin's party in attempting to save themselves by retreating to the Hudson's 
Bay territories. "We should have thought that the fearful sufierings undergone 
by Franklin and his companions, Richardson and Back, on a former short jour- 
ney through tliese barren grounds, would have deterred inexperienced men from 
attempting such a thing, when the well-known route to Fury Beach — certaiidy 
much more accessible than any of the Hudson's Bay Company's settlements, and 
by which the Rosses escaped in 1832-'33 — was open to them. The distance from 
their ships to Fury Beach was very little greater than that from where Ross's 
vessel was abandoned to the same place, and Fraidilin and his officers must have 
known that an immense stock of provisions still remained at the i>lace where 
the Furj' was wrecked, and where, even so late as 1859, an immense stock of pre- 



march, 186S.) Preparations for Visiting the Strait. 335 

served vegetables, soups, tobacco, sugar, flour, «&c., still remained (a much larger 
supply than could be found at many of the Hudson's Bay trading-posts) ; besides, 
the people would have been in the direct road of searching parties or whalers. 
The distance to Fury Beach from where the ships were abandoned, roughly 
measured, is, as nearly as possible, the same as that between the ships and the 
true mouth of the Great Fish Eiver, or about two hundred and ten geographical 
miles in a straight line. Had the retreat upon Fury Beach been resolved upon, 
the necessity for hauling heavy boats would have been avoided, for during the 
previous season (that of 1847) a small sledge party might have been dispatched 
thither to ascertain whether the provisions and boats at the depot were safe and 
available. The successful performance of such a journey should not have been 
difficult for an expedition consisting of 130 men, who, in the record found in 1859 
by McClintock, were reported all well in the spring of 1847. 

[In connection with these views of Rae, and in recording Hall's 
enthusiastic expectations, with the repeated and uniform accounts 
given to him of some white men having been seen on the peninsula 
later than 1854 (together with their monument and tenting-place, 
which he did discover), the questions at this point of the Narra- 
tive seem iiTepressible ; — " Is it possible that some of Franklin's 
men did make their way eastward to Melville Peninsula?" Will the 
expedition of 1878 from New York, under Schwatka, or some future 
explorer lighting on a cairn, ever give the world some answer to this 
inquiry f for it seems by no means certain that all of the 105 remained 
under Crozier's leadership toward Back's River. Will the Franklin 
Records ever be recovered for England and for the world f] 

During the first three weeks of March, Hall busied himself in 
making his preparations. After providing for the four white men 
whom he would leave at the encampment at Talloon, he made his 
usual deposit of records and stores. An epidemic had again visited 
the dogs, and his own team had been reduced from twenty-three to 
eight. Some having died from the disease, he had killed others \o 



336 The Dog Disease. [March, ises. 

prevent its spread. He succeeded, however, in securing five from the 
Innuits, the only dogs except two or three that remained alive about the hay* 
In return for the information he had just received and for other past 
services, he added useful articles to the compensation which he gave 
for these dogs. 

On the 23d, he left his encampment, having for his companions 
Frank Lailor, Papa and his wife and little child, Ebierbing, and Too- 
koo-li-too. His provision-list was made up of — bread, 308 pounds ; 
pemmican, 252 pounds; raw venison, 100 pounds; pork, 17 pounds; 
sugar, 25 pounds ; coffee and tea, 10 pounds; molasses, 39 pounds; 
tobacco, 13^ pounds; seal-blubber, 40 pounds, Ook-gooh oil, 50 
pounds, partly for fuel ; — walrus-hide, 463 pounds, and whale-tongue, 
266 pounds, for dog -food. Expecting to meet his old friends at Ig- 
loo-lik he counted on renewing his supplies at that place. 

His list of articles for barter and for presents included 50 knives; 



* The peculiar nature of the Eskimo dog disease was closely noted in the experience of the 
English Expedition of 1875. The following is taken from the report of Fleet-Surgeon B. Ninnis. 
(Parliamentary Paper, C. 2176, 1878) : 

"Twenty-live apparently healthy dogs were emharked on board ship in the middle of 
July, 1875. The number subsequently increased to twenty-seven by the addition of two young 
ones. We were given to understand that feeding twice a week was amply sufficient ; that the 
worst possible personal treatment was too good for them, and meat in any stage of decomposition 
a perfect luxury to their fastidious palates. 

" Seven and twenty animals, confined to a space which the utmost attention was scarcely 
sufficient to keep habitable, constantly quarreling and fighting for dear life, exposed to sun, 
dew, snow, and wet generally, and without a chance of a run ashore — it was not to bo won- 
dered at that they began to show signs of disease. The first attacked was a young female 
twenty-five days on board, and she had a fit and died iu thirteen days. Others became attacked. 
One was summarily shot ; one ran away, and Was seen no more; two were accidentally drowned ; 
seven died from the disease ; six recovered ; one died mad. 

" Of the whole number, twelve only were under medical treatment; one had rabies and 
died; one so far recovered as to have two litters of pups, and then died ten months after her 
first fit and two or three days after her last Utter ; two fell into the water when in fits and were 
drowned ; two died notwithstanding everything that was done to cure them, and six recovered 
and were landed at Disco. » » » The treatment found most beneficial was calomel, fol- 
lowed in some cases by croton-oil and solution of morphia, the best of water, and good food. 
They were not kicked or cuffed, and thoy behaved as sociably and decorously as if brought up 
in a cottage." 



April, IS6S.1 Papa Loses HaWs Notes. 837 

500 percussion-caps; a liberal supply of ball, powder, and shot; 1,500 
needles, and 80 thimbles, besides combs, looking-glasses, buttons, beads, 
brass rings, fish-hooks, and files, &c. The experience of his visit of 
the previous year to Ig-loo-lik had taught him something of the value 
set upon the smallest of these articles, even upon scraps of iron and 
wood. 

On arriving at the head of Haviland Bay, he crossed the land, 
taking nearly the same route with that followed the year before, and 
on the 30th made his seventh igloo of the journey on a lakelet just 
above Lyon's Inlet. While here engaged chiseling a hole through 
the ice, he had the lamentable misfortune to see Papa flying in full 
chase after some of his freshly- written notes, which, on unloading the 
sledge, had been suddenly swept out of their fur-cover by a furious 
blast of the gale. Papa returned in three-quarters of an hour ; but, 
after chasing the books over the lake and beyond the rising ground, 
he had lost sight of the jottings made since- leaving Talloon. The 
flying drift buried them forever. 

When starting on the second day following, bridle-drags were 

prepared for the sledges, as they had now to descend a steep hill into 

a river-bed ; a moment after. Papa ran the sled Erebus upon the point 

of a sharp rock which knocked off some of the mossing, whereupon 

he angrily got a large stone and pounded the point to powder. 

There was, however, a delay of but five minutes. On the 2d, they 

reached Fox Channel, and made their tenth igloo at Oo-soo-ark-u; 

and here Hall remained one da)^ to please his companions. He took 

observations for position, and left a deposit of 103 pounds of bread and 

()4 pounds of pemmican for his return journey. In consequence of 

heavy and rough ice met with on the 4th they struck ofl'shore, and, 
S. Ex. 37 22 



338 Reception at the Oo-glit Islands. iaphi, isss. 

when reaching the latitude of the north end of Am-i-toke, turned to the 
westward and encamped near it. They met fresh foot-prints seem- 
ingly of two men and a dog, and supposed that the men had been wal- 
rusing at the north on the drift-ice, which, being carried away had 
brought them to this point before they had a chance of gaining the 
firm ice. On the 6th of April, the thirteenth igloo was built at a point 
called by the Innuits King-me-toke-big, not far from the Oo-glit 
Islands, and the day following, when within a short drive from these 
islands, an Innuit who had been out all night on his watch, came up to 
them with his full sealing-gear. He proved to be an old man Avhom 
Hall had never before seen, but he gave some information as to the 
number of natives on the islands, and at Ping-it-ka-lik and Ig-loo-lik. 
Coming to the islands, Hall's party saw standing on the hill-top a row 
of Innuits Avatching tliem; Papa fired off his gun, and the old man, 
Too-Ioo-arch-oo, cried out to them at the top of his voice, " Mitter Hall, 
Mitter Hall !" llie natives of the village, when they caught the words, 
answered with loud cries, set to dancing, and offered as warm a recep- 
tion as on the previous year. When they crowded into the quickly- 
built igloo, they were at once met with inquiries as to the accounts of 
the white men said to have been seen on the Strait. 

Hall remained at these islands from the 7th to the 16th of the 
month, partly to obtain supplies of walrus-meat for the continuance of 
his journey, but chiefly to get from the natives all further information 
he possibly could, for or against the statements he had received. On 
the journey he had sprained his left leg while climbing over the rough 
ice, and this confined him to his bed for several days. While Ebier- 
bing went to Ig-loo-lik for dog-food, the natives employed Hall's dogs 
in their own service, tlieir stock having nearly all been swept away by 



April, i8t>8.j Conversations about the White Men. 339 

disease A large number of visitors came around him, the villao-e 
since his arrival having swelled its population to the number of one 
hundred. After questioning many of the people, at first separately 
and then at a time when quite a party were gathered in his igloo, he 
was further strengthened in his belief of what he had heard about the 
white men seen on the southern shores of the Strait. He seems to 
have really expected that he would soon find some of Franklin's men 
still alive. 

The details of his conversations were written out with great care 
in a full journal, which was irrecoverably lost in some unaccountable 
way just before his setting out on the Polaris Expedition of 1871. 
From a partial copy of this journal, made at his request by his friend 
Mr. J. J. Copp, of Groton, Conn., the notes have been taken which are 
to be found in Paper "B" of Appendix IV. This copy, made by Mr. 
Copp in books "A" and " B " especially for the use of Lady Franklin, 
was sent over to that estimable lady just before Hall left the United 
States on his last ill-fated voyage. Indorsed by him ''to be retained 
by her in trust for a time," it has been courteously returned by her 
niece. Miss Sophia Cracroft, for use in the preparation of this 
Narrative. 

Some of the striking points in these conversations, which increased 
Hall's enthusiasm, and in his judgment justified him in prosecuting 
this journey, will be found in Appendix named The story may 
be summed up in brief as follows: Although he could not meet with 
Kia, for he had been killed by a walrus, he learned from Koo-loo-a, a 
native whom he found to be trustworthy, that when he had been hunt- 
ing all around the country between Garry Bay and the northwest 
cape of Melville Peninsula, he had seen an lu-nook-shoo (a monument) 



340 The Clothing and Walk of the Men Seen. [Aprii, ises. 

on the south side of a river emptying into a bay near the Cape Ellice 
of Dr. Rae, and a little west of this a cache of stones, wliich had been 
opened and its stones thrown aside. It showed freshness, and was 
without a sign of meat having been deposited there. Koo-loo-a did not 
think an Innuit had built it, or that any native before his visit had 
ever gone up so far from Garry Bay. He had been witli Kia when 
the latter saw the strange man. The man had a cap on his liead, 
separate from his overcoat, which had a hood. Kia had kept the 
stranger in sight for some time, often hiding himself behind the rocks ; 
he had also then heard the discharge of a gun. 

From the time that Kia first gave this account to Koo-loo-a^ it 
had been believed by all the Innuits in the region of the Oo-glit 
Islands, and they all now expressed to Hall their confidence in it. 
Besides such reports, others also of as strange a character were 
offered — of strangers having been seen in places nearer to Ig-loo-lik, 
and of sounds having been repeatedly heard like those from the dis- 
charge of a gun, and at places too far from the ice to have been the 
result of the ice cracking. The strangers had at first been taken for 
Et-Jcer-lin (Indians), the apprehension always entertained by Innuits 
in regard to whom had, at the times when the white men were seen, so 
frightened them, that, at every appearance, their families had been 
removed immediately from the place. This was the invariable testi- 
mony, as was also the description of the clothing worn and of the foot- 
prints examined after the strangers passed by. They were long and 
very narrow in the middle, with deep places at the heel. The tread 
of the footsteps was outward 

Hall could not help connecting in mind the story of the ship's 
mast and beam on the shores of Pelly Bay, the monument spoken of 



April, 1868.] From the Oo-glit Islands to Crosier Biver. 341 

by See-ptmg-er, and the one now seeming to exist on the north shores 
of the Strait, as links in connection with the strange appearances of the 
men, their dress, and footsteps. Some of Franklin's men must, he 
thought, have crossed over eastward to Parry's old region in the for- 
lorn hope of reaching, perhaps, Cumberland Inlet and being rescued 
by some vessel from Old England ; and they might be still alive, for 
the last date of these stories was 1 864. 

Leaving the islands early on the 1 6th, with Koo-loo-a as a trust- 
worthy guide, he passed by Ping-it-ka-lik, crossed from that place, 
over land so level and smooth, that it was difficult to tell it was not a 
lake, and made his first new igloo on Hooper Inlet, about half a mile 
from shore. The day following, making a fair progress across the 
inlet, he came to an old deserted igloo, in which a dead fox was found. 
Koo-loo-a built up a pillar of snow, on the top of which he left the 
animal erect, its tail standing straight out and two of its legs in the 
position for walking, in which they had been found. Tracks of the 
wolf, the deer, the fox, and of partridges were seen. Near the islands, 
at the head of the inlet, tidal action was seen to have made the ice 
very rough. 

Their next igloo was built on Quilliam Creek, at the early hour 
of 2 a. m. of the 17th. From the head of this creek, they en- 
deavored to shorten their route to the west branch of Crozier Eiver, 
but the roughness of the land, compelling them to make zigzag 
courses, prevented any gain of time. Koo-loo-a pointed out on the 
southern side of the river a place where e-ker-lu (salmon) abound, and 
said that Parry had caught many there at his tenting-place. 

Upon Crozier River they passed through a magnificent gorge 
from 50 to 75 feet in width, to avoid some impassable snow-drifts in 



342 Grinnell Lake and Brevoort River. [April, isos. 

which they put on their rue-raddles, (harness), helping the clogs up a ^'ery 
steep hill, and then descending swiftl}- into the river-bed ; and after fur- 
ther delays among the rough rocks which pushed up through the ice, 
at 6.H0 p. m. they built an igloo on the river. Hall immediately 
climbed a high peak in the range of mountains before him, from which 
he had a fine view of the surrounding country. On the east was an 
extensive plain ; on the north, the high land about Hooper Inlet ; and 
southward and westward, mountains after mountains rose in confused 
masses : a pass seemed to open itself about ten miles to the south. 

On the 19th, the travel up the river was continued as far as the 
lake from which it flows, after riding on the smooth surface of which 
more than five hours they built their fourth igloo Hall named the 
lakelet Grinnell Lake ; during the night the cracking of the ice on it 
sounded like continuous artillery. Not a sign of life had been seen 
since leaving Quilliam Creek ; and Koo-loo-a told Hall that no other 
Innuit knew this route, which he had discovered when hunting. 

At noon of the next day, on the western end of Grinnell Lake, 
they found a large open pool with no anchor-ice on its bottom rock. 
Salmon were swinmfing in it. To the little stream which ran from 
this lake Hall gave the name of Brevoort River. A lakelet into 
which it expanded being found to be covered with water with nuich 
thin ice over it, a passage was made over the land until the river was 
again entered, when the traveling became very fatiguing through the 
soft snow, which was melting under the southerly winds. Hall's limb 
was now so painful as to compel him to ride nearly all the time, and 
he could make but few observations ; but his next igloo was made 
near the spot where Koo-loo-n " saAv the tracks of white men and heard 
the report of a gun more than thirteen years before." The day follow- 




April, 1868.] Liscovery of ''New Island^ 343 

ing they came to a frozen cascade, 15 feet in height, where the river 
seemed to have cut its way through solid granite 60 feet wide and 25 
feet high, and a few hours afterward they passed out upon the bay, and 
built their sixth igloo on the ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee, lat. 69^ 47'.5. 
The next day was one of rest for the lunuits, who were suffering from 
snow-blindness. Hall made for them a w^ash of sugar of lead and 
laudanum. From a piece of driftwood ifoo- 
loo-a made eye-shades. In company with 
Frank Lailor, Hall looked carefully from the 
to]3 of Cape Englefield for any signs of white 
men, but could see none ; he made his own 
monument on the Cape— a pile of three large . snow-goggles. 

stones, the lowest resting on his clay pipe. A hawk was seen, and 
tracks of deer, of bears, and ermine were numerous ; on the ice were 
many regular paths worn in the snow by the bears, but no animal 
showed himself to the travelers The jumps of the little ermine in the 
snow showed that they had been full six feet each. 

Early on the 23d, most of the stores were deposited in an igloo, 
over which "a flag was left swinging in the wind to keep off the bears," 
when the whole company started down the coast to visit the monu- 
ment described by Koo-loo-a; but, on his being taken sick, the visit was 
arrested for that day. Out on the sea was a long line of fog, showing 
itself to the south as far as the eye could follow it Koo-loo-a said 
there was open water there all winter, and that many walrus were 
caught there. Land now discovered by Hall west-northwest from 
Cape Englefield proved to be a long low island. Koo-loo-a said that 
bears were often killed on it while wintering under the snow. 

Of this discovery his little note-book of the evening says: "On 



344 



The Monument Found. 



[April, 1868. 



getting to-day to the heights of land overlooking New Bay, Parry 
Bay, Cape Crozier, and Fury and Hecla Straits, the sight of a New 
Long Island to the westward, so carried me away that I was sweeping 
to the right and left with my glass before I again had a thought of 
monuments or other traces of the lost ones." 

On the 24th, the search was made for the monument and cache. 
The monument was found and the place of the cache pointed out, but 

the latter was covered hy a huge hank of 
snow. Hall thus describes the location 
of the monument : " On either side of 
the plain on which it stands is a river, 
and hills of delta are northeast of it. 
It is 100 feet above the sea, and near a 
hill upon the south side of the plain. 
The hill looks not unlike an inverted 
whale-boat when seen at a little dis- 
tance from the northwest." While he 
made a sketch of the monument, 
Frank Lailor, with an iron snow-knife, tried to cut down through the 
bank to the cache, but found the snow as hard as ice. 

To leave nothing undone to find the buried cache-stones. Hall 
now moved down and built his igloo near it, and on the 25th renewed 
with Frank Lailor, with some assistance from Ebierbing who was 
suffering with rheumatism, the severe work of cutting down into the 
snow-bank. They all labored hard for many hours, cutting down to 
the depth of 15 feet with their iron snow-knives, until, as Ebierbing 
has lately said, " they sweated in the cold from head to foot." But it 
was impossible to find the cache. 




MONUMENT FOUND BY HALL. 



April, 1868.1 



A - Tenting- Place of White Men. 



345 



Too-koo-li-too and Ebierbing, about tlie same time, found two 
tenting-places which presented strong contrasts. The first tent, the 
traces of which Too-koo-h-too called to them to observe, liad been ob- 
long, as shown by four stones, weighing each from 25 to 35 pounds, 
used to hold down its corners ; rows of smaller stones were in the po- 
sitions where they had served to secure the sides. The dimensions of 




c^ ' V^-r^' 




hall's sketch of the coast-line near the monument. 
the tent had been 9 feet by 6. Hall's Innuit companions assured him 
that white men must have built it. An Innuit tenting-place close 
by, showed the unquestionable marks of its builders by its stones 
being found arranged in their invariably circular form. 



346 HalVs Position Higher than Mae's Highest. [Aphi, issh. 

Tlie rough notes of the two days of this visit are worth a hteral 
transcribing, and are here given, omitting only Hall's astronomical 
observations, and some sketches of less importance than those shown 
by the cuts. The spot visited had not been reached by any previous 
Arctic explorer. Parry's officers were not on this western side of the 
peninsula, and Dr. Rae's highest point was 69° 5' 85" N. (Rae's Narra- 
tive, p. 128). And it maybe justly remarked here that it is to be 
regretted that Hall's visit should have been recently discredited, and 
this before his full statements could be published. The latitude of his 
encampment here wns 69° 47' 5" N., long. 85° 15' W. 

Literal Copy of SaWs Notes. 

Apkil 24. — Koo-Joo-a requested to-day that I would take a look witli my 
si^y-glass ill a certain direction, after we bad tramped four liours over kill, lake, 
raAane, and tlirough deep snows, I looked, and sighted a monument above the 
snow. Koo-looa and Frank took a look through the spy-glass, the former 
declaring that the monument he saw was at the head of a bay not then in sight. 
Dr. Eae could not possibly have made this monument and cache, for they both 
belong together; the latter covered with a deep drift every winter, and when 
Eae was at Cape Crozier in May, 1847, the bank of snow must have been as dee]^ 
and hard as the one now there. Besides, Dr. Eae's track-chart does not show 
that lie visited the southeast angle of l*arry Bay. To-morrow morning, 1 remove 
Avith my party to the monument. 

Koo-loo-a told Hannah that when he first saw this monument thirteen years 
before, it was then fresh, and now looks old. When he found it and the cache- 
stones under the bank, he told all the Innuits of his strange discovery. No lii- 
nuit could have made it. A hole was dug out of the rocks and something de- 
posited in it. Afterward, the stones covering the cache were thrown all in a pile 
on one side, and the deposit, whatever it was, taken out. 

April 25.-- Tbis morning we leave our seventh iyloo here and move down 
to the monument, to make all investigations possible relating to it, and try our 
best to find Ihe cache-stones buried in a huge snow-bank that lies over the steep 
bank of ground running alongside of the i)laiii on the margin of which is the 
monument. 



April, ises.i Rough Notes of the 24:th-26th. 347 

8 a. m. — Passing along frem seventh encampment toward Cape Crozier, the 
monument is distinctly ^nsible Avith the glass. I and Frank commenced at once 
with our snow-shovels to cut out snow-blocks from the heavy bank just west of 
the monument in search of the cache-stones. Koo-loo a, from his remembrance of 
the situation of the monument and cache-stones, has shown us where to dig. 

10.5 a. m. — Hannah has found the tenting-place of white men — an oblong 
tent and four fresh upturned stones, one at each corner, to make fast the lines of 
the tent ; the stones show an age since turned up out of their bed the same as 
monument stones. 

10.30. — Joe, in searching around, has found another tenting-place. Frank 
and myself were busy raising blocks when Joe called, and then we all ran where 
he was, and have just made our investigations. These stones are in a circular 
form, and evidently the tenting-place of Innuits within ten to fifteen years. 
Hannah said if a fire-place could be found within the tent-circle then they were 
Innuit tenting places, and at last a fire-place was found within one of the circles — 
black on the back of the fire-place; a stone that had formed one side was loos- 
ened and turned up by Hannah and found black with smoke. Koo-loo-a found a 
large stone in proper position for holding the line keeping up the entrance to 
the tent; as Ig-loo-lik people make their tents. Joe, Hannah, and Koo-loo-a are 
sure the ohlong-shaped tenting-place and the stones at the corners and outside 
row of small stones tell the truth, that Innuits never did that work. The contrast 
particularly striking between the tenting-place of the whites and that of the 
natives. A small stump of a tree found in the circle of an Innuit tenting-place, 
and not decayed, but white with age, showed hard life among the ice of the sea 
of Ak-koo-lee. 

Evening notes. — AU day we have been hard at work cutting out snow- 
blocks in search of the cache-stones, but in vain. One would be greatly de- 
lighted to see the excavations and upturned blocks all around made in searching 
for lost cache stones. # # * 

2(Sth. — Joe and Hannah, being well acquainted with Avhite men's ways, are 
as certain as is Koo-loo-a that white men had an encampment here. 

Having with them provisions for two days only. Hall's party 
were forced to return to their sixth igloo First, liowever, he took 
down the monument stone by stone, yet without finding- any record 
or sign to tell with more certainty who had built it. Koo-Joo-a " was 



348 Survey of the Northwest Coast. [April, ises. 

the most disappointed one of the party, for he expressed honest fears 
that he would be thought to have told a falsehood." Yet his charac- 
ter for entire truthfulness had been and still remained unquestioned ; 
Hall says he had previously " sharply -tested this man." He left the 
spot with the assurance that his search for the evidence of white 
men's having lived a struggling life in those regions had not been in 
vain, for they had found a monument and tenting-place made by 

WHITE MEN. 

From astronomical observations and compass-bearings he now 
determined the coast-line between Cape Englefield the most western 
point of the Strait sighted by Parry, and Cape Crozier the most 
northern reached by E.ae in 1847; by which survey he may be justly 
said to have filled up this broken line of the Admiralty chart for the 
northwestern part of Melville Peninsula at and below the western outlets 
of Fury and Hecla Strait. This was, at least, a liberal compensation 
for the disappointment keenly felt on leaving the spot without rec- 
ords or closer traces of white men. 

Just before again reaching their igloo^ Koo-loo-d!s sharp eyes spied 
a hole in it, and as the tracks of a wolverine had been already seen, 
alarm was taken for the safety of their provisions On coming nearer, 
walrus-hide, meat, and blubber were seen scattered here and there on 
the ice ; but on Hall's breaking open the door, he found that the ani- 
mal had but scratched two or three little holes through the snow-plat- 
form and dragged out the articles without carrying them into its hole. 
A delay of one day more would probably have cost the party the loss 
of all their food. 

Not satisfied to give up the search for Franklin's men whom he 



May, ises.j VisU to AmJieTst Island. 349 

still believed that he might find yet living, he next examined the 
southern shores of the Strait, and endeavored to cross to the northern 
coast, hoping also to make some geographical determinations there. 
The exceeding roughness of the ice permitted him to advance on 
foot only, with one companion and one dog. From the main island 
of a group in the mouth of the Strait he took additional observations, 
bearings, and sextant angles, to fix the position of the new island to 
the northwest of Cape Englefield On the south side of the islet on 
which he stood, the rock appeared to have been polished to the height 
of 50 feet above the sea by the moving ice-masses. The whole strait 
was filled with rugged ice, pack and old floe, some of the old floe 
pieces a mile square; one small unbroken floe was plainly of the 
formation of the year previous. Old floes abounded, full of hills, val- 
leys, and lakes, nearly all denuded of snow, and covered by huge 
bergy pieces thrown up by pressure in the open season. The Innuits 
said that occasionally there is a year in which the straits are entirely 
clear of ice. " Parry and Lyon would have hailed such a season." 

On the 30th, with the same companion, Frank Lailor, Hall visited 
some islets off Cape Englefield, searching again thoroughly for monu- 
ments or other signs of human beings. His next exploration was along 
the southern coast as far as East Cape, and from that point to Parry's 
Amherst Island, on which, however, he found nothing really indicat- 
ing that any one had been there of late years. Three flat slate stones 
were seen placed on each other, with their moss side down 

For a return to the Oo-glit Islands, a choice was to be made 
between continuing down the strait and their outward route by Quill- 
iam Creek, the latter of which routes was taken to avoid delay, 
which the roughness of the ice might cause. A prompt return was 



350 Return to the Oo-glii Isles. [iway, ises. 

necessary, as their supplies, made up at first for fifteen days only, had 
now been drawn upon nearly three weeks. Finding an easy passage 
over the land to the creek, by the 6th of May they had rapidly fol- 
lowed it down, and, passing through Hooper Inlet, after some delays 
occasioned by the softness of the snow, arrived at the Oo-glit Islands 
early on the 8th, having in fifteen hours accomplished a journey of fifty- 
seven statute miles from their last halting-place on the ice of the inlet. 
On this journey the only living thing seen was a crow. They had 
found that the fox which had been set up on the snow pillar by Koo- 
loo-a had been carried off by some Iimuit, who had substituted for it 
the shoulder-blade of a walrus ; this dried meat was relished by the 
hungry return party. When coming hear the Oo-glit Isles, Hall 
"looked out upon a long impenetrable cloud of blackness overhang- 
ing the iceless waters of Fox Channel. The wind blowing fresh from 
the south and the aurora actually working on the face of the black- 
ness, made it seem, as we approached this world of blackness, as though 
we were going right straight into the lower regions in the literal signifi- 
cant sense of the word." 

The population of the village was now again increased by the 
coming in of several new families from the northeast to see the 
stranger. The first news which he heard was the loss of Ag-loo-ka 
and his friend E-nu-men, who were irrecoverably swept away while 
walrusing on the ice; the next was that another native had further 
accounts to give him of Kia^s strange white man. Hall determined 
to defer a proposed geographical exploration of the strait and go 
over to Tern Island to see this man. Whatever judgments may 
now be passed upon his persistence in this search for Franklin's sur- 
vivors, liis own words at the time were, "No man, knowing what I do, 



Ma J-, 1868.] Visit to Tcm Island 351 

can possibly believe otherwise than that part of the lost companions 
of Franklin and Crozier have been living for several years on Melville 
Peninsula." But while preparing to visit Tern Island he made a survey 
of the Oo-glit group. Its open sea was rolling its high waves upon the 
shore, and its waters were alive with walrus, ducks, and sea-gulls — 
now-yers. Thousands of ducks filled the air with such music as made 
the place anything but solitary. 

On the 12th, his party, with Papa and his family who had now 
rejoined them, set off for Ig-loo-lik and Tern Island, but when near 
the former place they met with a sister of Kia, a long conversation 
with whom brought out facts substantiating the same old story ; at Tern 
Island the new friend, Kud-loon, gave him essentially the same particu- 
lars. The people of this island- being found destitute, Hall shared with 
them some of his supplies, and made them presents. Confined to his 
hut by snow-blindness (an-Jcoot-ed for it), the an-ge-ko gave as a reason 
for his sufferings that he had eaten out of an unsuitable pan, and had 
visited the igloo of one of Koo-loo-a's wives on the Oo-glit Islands at a 
time when he should not have done so. Before leaving Tern Island, he 
bartered needles, thimbles, fish-hooks, &c., for dogs, intending to make 
an exploring journey down the east side of Fox Channel, but again 
relinquished such an object, saying he had at last been able to conquer 
his almost uncontrollable desire to discover new lands, and had brought 
back his feelings of duty, to stick to the mission of finding out about 
the lost white men. Nood-loo, a native of Ig-loo-lik, drew for him the 
accompanying sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet. This inlet, near the 
east end of Fury and Hecla Strait, he learned, is in reality a Sound, 
sweeping round to the eastward and forming a large island. 

To prosecute yet one more search, on the 18th of the month, in 



352 



Tenting-Place on Gijford River. 



[inar, 1868. 



company with Frank, Papa, Tou-tee-che-uk, his wife, and two children,, 
he began a journey to Parry's "GifFord River," having heard in con- 
versations subsequent to those which have been referred to tliat a 
tenting-place and other signs of white men would be found there. 
On the 19th, he entered this river, which proved to be really an arm 
of the sea, receiving several rivulets which his guide said are filled 
with salmon in the autumn. Its Innuit name, Kun-nuk-clu, means a bay. 
On the northeast shore a tenting-place was found, of which Hall 
made the accompanying sketch; but, with the exception of two shot 

and a peculiar arrangement 
of the stones, there was no 
special indication of its hav- 
ing been occupied by civil- 
ized men. It will be re- 
membered that Parry's men 
visited it. On this journey 
several seal a/jloos were seen, 
from Avhicli the young seals 
escaped, but a skillful Innuit captured a full-grown animal while he 
was sleeping and sunning himself on the ice. The usual strategy had 





SCHAl'KK, TO ATTKACT TllH SEAL. 



been exercised of hitching the body, feet foremost, step by step, to- 
ward the seal, and occasionally raising tlie head and looking around, 



May, 1S68.] Morc TaJks with the Innuits. 353 

as the animal constantly does when on the watch, the man then drop- 
ping- his head into a cat-nap, and finally scratching on the snow with 
the scraper, which is made for this purpose. By thus imitating- the 
noise which the seal makes with his flipper, he enticed it to come 
near him. The harpoon was then swiftly driven in. 

By noon of the 21st, Hall had passed through some severe storms, 
but was again near Ig-loo-lik, and, after holding more talks through 
the next five days, prepared to return to Repulse Bay. For his sup- 
plies to reach that place he found it necessary to take great care of 
what he had collected; tor, with a new experience of his Innuit friends, 
he now found that no sooner did he barter for walrus-meat than a 
crowd rushed into his igloo and devoured it. They seem to have 
looked upon his stores as inexhaustible, and felt they had claims upon 
him for the information given in the long talks into which he had led 
them. The details of these talks fill a number of pages in the books 
A and B, heretofore named. They were essentially repetitions of the 
conversations in April. 

An intelligent Innuit named Oong-er-luh drew for him just before 
his leaving Ig-loo-lik the accompanying sketches of the coast of Fox 
Channel and of Admiralty Inlet. They have been reproduced liter- 
ally from Hall's note-books. The Innuit names are those given by 
Oong-er-luk for the numbers Avhich he placed on his maps. His 
sketches, with those drawn by Ar-mou, Ou-e-la, Papa, and In-nook-2)Oo- 
zhe-jook in 1869, are presented as specimens of Innuit ideas of native 
localities ; — ideas generally found to be very correct, as it will be 
remembered were those shown by the map drawn by the woman I-Ug- 
liuk for Parry. [See also Chapell's letter to Hall, page 35 of this 
Narrative.] 

S. Ex. liT 23 



354 



Oong-er-luKs Maps of Fox Channel. 



[Mar, 1868. 



SKETCH OF THE NORTHEAST COAST OF FOX CHANNEL BY THE 

INNUIT OONG-ER-LUK. 



1. Ou-ker-nar-chu. [Never frozen chan- 

nel.) 

2. Es-se-txi-e-ju-a. 
3-3. Too-ki-an. 

4. Tej-see-u-ark. 

5. Koo-be-nar-chu. 

6. Ki ki-tar-chu. 

7. Kud-gu-yer. (Name of isle.) 

8. Ar-kim-e-nun. 

9. Ig-luk-ju-ia. 

10. Ken-nuk-lukju-a. 

11. Noo-wier. [Long point.) 

12. Is-shook-too. 

13. Tik-ik-kun. 

14. Ee-uk-ju-ar-cliu. {A mountain, steep 

on all sides but one.) 

15. Arug-u-yaru. 

16. Ing-nier-ing. 

17. Noon-ee-tar. 

18. Ear-kee. 

19. Wear-chin. 

20. Tee-ke-ra-chu. 

21. Eak-pin. 

22. Ki-erk-chu-ken. 

23. Oo-glit. 

24. E-pe-u-tin. {The isthmus, where many 

of the Innuits from Northumber- 
land Inlet died, some of starvation, 
some by murder. Tookoo-li-too^s 
sister was of the ones hilled.) 



25. 
26. 
27. 
28. 
29. 
30. 
31, 
32. 
33. 
34. 
35. 
36. 
37. 
38. 
39. 
40. 
41. 
42. 
43. 



44. 



45- 



i ^^' 

48. 

I 40. 
I 50. 



Shar-tuk-ju-a. 

King-ark-ju-a. 

Shok-bur. ( Water and land). 

Tar-ri-o-ar-chu {Bay.) 

Pce-lig. ( Where river enters bay.) 

Ee-soo-e-too. {Small lake.) 

Teg-siik-ju-a. {Large lalce.) 

Ar-teii-ni-en. 

Ou-le-chee-wa-chu . 

In-i»ook-she-lik. (Lake and land.) 

Kung-ook-too. 

Mi-uk-too-le-ar-clm. (Bay.) 

Ned-lu-ark-ju-a. 

Ki-ki-tar-loo. {Name of the two isles.) 

Man-uk-toe. 

Arng-mark-ju-a. 

Kig-gur-wig. 

Nug-lee-we-too. 

Shartoo. 

{Between ^'6 and 44 ?s Skeoch Bay of 

Parry'' s chart.) 
Kop-e-e-we. ( Cape Elwyn of Parry's 

chart.) 
46. Sed ler. {The land southeast and 

east of Cape Konig of Parry's 

chart.) 
See-er-wark-ju. 
Im-me-yay-too. 
Ki-nk-tar-bin. 
Wall-ing-yer. 



NOTES WRITTEN DOAVN BY HALL I'KOM DICTATION BY OONG-ER-LUK. 

From Shar-too (43) to the " high land " of sketch, it would take six days with 
dogs and an unloaded sledge, the dogs going fast. As Innuits generally travel, 



SKETCH OF 

4 ( N.E. COAST or TOX CHANNEL 

B^- the Innuil Ooug-er-luk 
JJrawn May 2:-i''-'^ l&rtH 




A 



!?Iay, ISHS.] 



Oong-er-luk^ s Map of Admiralty Inlet. 



355 



with families aiwi bousehold goods, it would take fifteen days ; so say Innnits that 
have lived for maQy summers all along the coast sketched. I think the distance 
from Shartoo (43) to said high land to be from 250 to 300 miles. From Ned-lu- 
ark-ju-a (37), old man Nou-learju says one can see the mountain which is near to 
the very large lake which is on the route Innuits take in traveling and voyaging 
from Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too's country (Too-nuk-jok-ping, Northumberland 
Inlet) to Ig-loo-lik, The large river which runs from said lake, called Kook-ju a, 
is more than half way from Too-nuk-jok-ping to Ned-lu-ark-ju-a (37).^ A woman, 
very smart and intelligent, by the name of A-mer-goo (wife of Innnn-lcing), who 
came from Northvmberland InJet, says that when the party she accompanied from 
her country to Ig-loo-lik left the mouth of the great river that runs from Kook- 
ju-a (the Great Lake), it took eight days to get to E-pe-u-tin (the peninsula of 24) 
in their oo-mi-en (great family boat). Much of th© land was very low, and when 
the tide ebbed they used to let their boat take the ground instead of trying to 
get to the shore, for they had to stand far out from it to keep in water that only 
at flood-tide was deep enough to float their craft. On getting to 24, the Innuits 
always make portage, instead of going so far as to round the long land (25). 



SKETCH or TOO-NOO-NEE-NOO-SHUK, OR ADMIKALTY INLET, BY 

OONG-EK-LUK. 



L Too-joo. 

2. See-goo-ar. 

3. Ok-ke-oge-nuii. 

4. Koud-loo-too. 

5. Sing-i-ze-oke-big. 
0. KiSn-uk-lu-ar-chu. 

7. K6k-oolu-in. 

8. Kun-idc-lu-ar-chu. 

9. Shoo-uk-te-lik. 

10. Ouk-bar-too. 

11. Tel-ler-ar-chu. 

12. Eke-pe-ar-chu. 
13-13. Ej-iik-tar-zhu. 
14-14. Noo-wiu. 

15. Oo-look-shuu. {Waiives live here 

much when ice in gone.) 

16. Eke-i)e-ar-chu. 



17-17. Put-tar-te-lik. 

18-18. Kun-nuk-too. (A bag.) 

19-19. Ki-ki-tou-kin. 

20. Ki-ik-tun-ten al-loo. 

21. Ki-ik-tun. {The island.) 

22. Se-er-wok-te-u. 

23. Eve-ju-ar-cliin. 

24. Ang-no-quo-zham. 

25. Now-yarn. 

2(5. Eke-pik-ju-ar-chiu. 

27. Ok-big-seer-i)ing. 

28. In-ntik-too-big. 

29. E-ter-be-lu, 

30. Sed-no-wa-ling. 

31. Sed-no-way-suk. 

32. Ed-irdv-ju-in. 

33. Tee-kee ra-chfi. 



356 Map of Admiralty Inlet. [May, ises. 



34. Ki-ki-tar-zliu. 

35. Kub-lo-e-tit. 

36. Too-ler-kut. 

37. She-ming. 



38. Tiu-nee-je-va-loo. 

39. Oo-pung-ne-wing. 

40. Kiin-ne-i-rung. {Natives live much 

of the time here.) 



NOTES WRITTEN DOWN BY HALL FROM DICTATION BY OONG-ER-LUK. 

The width of the bay not so great at and near the entrance as farther in. 
One meditim day's good drive with dog-sledge from one side of the bay to the 
other in its general width. The trend of bay not exactly north and south, but 
little to the northeastward and southwestward. 

At the mouth of the inlet early spring whaling might be prosecuted, for a 
great many whales are always seen close to the bay-floe by the natives as early 
as April and May. Ice out of the whole bay every year, and then there are a 
great many black whales, white whales, and narwhals all over the bay. Very 
good anchorage for ships at 16 and other places in the bay (18-18). Good for 
ships in 6, 8, 10, and 12. High land and deep water about and in 18-18. Innuits 
in the summer kill whales in 18-18. No rough ice in the bay Too-noo-nee-roo- 
shuk ; all smooth floe. No icebergs or other heavy ice finds its way into this 
great bay, for it all sweeps onward with the current in Barrow Strait to the east- 
ward. When the wind is from the east, and the ice is driven westward, for some 
reason it does not drive down into the bay. Coast on the west side nearly 
straight, and without any indentations. High land on west side. 

After the ships have all left Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay), having finished 
whaling by the floe there, then is the good time to see a great many whales in 
the great bay of Too-noo-nee-roo-shuk. Once a whale was found in the bay of 
T. K. by the natives which was dead, with lines and harpoons in it. A great 
many narwhals killed by Innuits at T. K. and their horns taken by them to 
Pond's Bay and bartered off to the whalers. 

The RETURN to Repulse Bay was now begun. Leaving the Oo- 
glit Islands on the 31st of May, Hall further examined a new bay which 
he had discovered and a lake on the southwest, into which he crossed 
by a short portage. Whenever the weather permitted, and so far as 
his very defective instruments enabled him on this part of his jour- 
ney and until he reached Haviland Bay, he made a rough survey of 
the whole route But the injured condition of his compass and sex- 



Oi 



BAEEOW STRAIT 



SKETCH OF 

ADMIRALTY INLET 

By Oong'-er-lu.k 
DrawnMaj 23'"-'^1868. 




June, 1868.1 Tlie Tvces Near Hoj^j^ner's Creek 357 

tant and the interruptions by rain and storm and by his own suffer- 
ings, prevented his observations from being more than approximate. 

Arriving on the east side of the head of Hoj^pner Inlet, he found 
three small streams, in one of which was an abundant growth of wood 
in a cluster of undergrowth showing some creeping trees which spread 
themselves out. One of these was 11 feet in length and 2 inches in 
diameter at the base. It was seen that " where a portion of the tree 
in its creeping position pressed hard upon the earth, it had sent down 
numerous branches of roots."* 

The river where this wood is in such abundance, empties itself 
into the one by which he was encamped just before it enters the head of 
Hoppner's Creek. " It comes down a wild ravine, having steep mount- 
ain-high sand-banks on either side." Hall wrote with these words : 
"When the lakes have their ice loosened, all the three rivers will pom- 
down their living, dancing waters, when salmon will greatly abound 
where fresh and salt water mingle." He was at the time heartily tired 
of walrus, deer-meat, and tood-noo. "His mouth watered in vain for 
salmon," which Papa and Hannah had failed to secure. 

He explored the region between the head of this inlet and Lyon's 
Inlet, and, striking across the land to Haviland Bay, arrived on its 
banks on the 24th, crossed on its thin ice on the day following, at 
times through water a foot deep, and at 4 a. m. of the 26th, regained 
his encampment at Tal-loon ; the sledge journey had been one of 
ninety-six days. It was a satisfaction to find the white men whom he 
had hired in full health. His dogs, too, were in as good condition as 
when they had started out. His Innuit friends gave him a present of 

*For a most interesting account of trees growing still further north, some of them 3 feet 
in diameter, found in a ravine, see Osborn's account of McClure's Northwest Passage ; also, 
Meacham's report of the trees found on Prince Patrick Island, in lat. 76° 15', long. 121° 40.' 



358 Successful Salmon-Fishing. tJuiy, tses. 

salmon, some of which measured 32 to 37 inches in length, weigh- 
ing from 9 to 1 3 pounds each. 

The record of the two remaining summer months presents as inci- 
dents of special interest a successful season for salmon-fishing and 
deer-hunting; the very unfortunate, though justified, shooting of 
one of the five hired men ; and the capture of another whale, the pos- 
session of which, together with renewed supplies from friends in the 
United States, encouraged Hall to hope that he could remain over 
still another year and yet reach King William's Land. In this it will 
be found he succeeded in the following spring. 

A supply of salmon had always been an object, as well for the 
change which it ofi"ered from the unvarying rough Arctic *'food, as for 
the value of the fish when dried and stored for the winter; but up to 
this time little success had rewarded the best efforts made by Hall and 
his hired men either with their nets or spears. The Innuits, through 
long practice, were experts in spearing, and the}' seemed to have gen- 
erally considered the fishing-grounds as their exclusive property. 

The notes of July 20 record a determination not to be outdone 
in the work. Hearing that they were securing very many fish and 
his men very few. Hall, tliough quite ill, jumped from his bed, and 
quickly dressing, ordered each of his company to repair promptly 
their sadly broken spears, for he would see whether white men could 
be so easily beaten ; " one need not starve while such food abounds." 

As the tide was about to flood, it became necessary to make great haste or 
our ehauce would be lost till next ebb ; so every one worked with a will. When 
the spears were in order, I organized my men into a regular fish-fighting com- 
pany, and then into the deep pools all in line we plunged, or in fact waded thigh 
deep. The Innuits had all left, eacli having caught as many as he could well 
attend to, except Ar-goo-moo-foo-Iil; whom I requested to desist while I made a 



July, 1868.] The Mutiny. 359 

trial \v1tli my men alone. In one hour from the time we entered the ice-cold 
water we had every spear broken, so that not one in a dozen salmon struck could 
be saved. Then, all in a line, behind and by the side of our net, waist-deep in 
the pool, we marched, dragging the net and driving the salmon like sheep before 
us. When well advanced to the upper end of the pool, the water was found to 
be black with floundering fish. Having reached a narrow place where the net 
stretched from shore to shoi'e, and penned in the salmon completely, myself, Joe, 
Frank, and all the rest except Antoine, who played sick, went to Avork scooping 
out salmon, and in a few minutes caught one hundred and seventy-five, the total 
weight of which exceeded 1,000 pounds, for the greater number were quite large. 

The Innuits acknowledged themselves beaten. Hall attributed 
his success to the use of his excellent Brevoort net, with which he 
thought he would have even doubled the number taken if he had 
been allowed the first chance at the pool. 

A most unhappy record is now to be made. From the date of his 
return from Fury and. Hecla Strait some dissatisfaction seems to have 
been growing among the hired men whom he had left at. the encamp- 
ment when setting out on that journey. They had been lacking in 
their care of the stores, backward on going out on the hunts, and tardy 
when absent on these, as well as hurtfully careless in feeding the dogs. 
The ill-feeling manifested by several of them toward Hall, arising pos- 
sibly from the uncertainty as to the time when any ships would appear 
in the bay to take them to their homes, culminated in the unfortunate 
affair which is best presented in his own words : 

July 31. — Gave Peter his order to take my rifle and go on a deer-hunt, and 
to take along Antoine and Pat, and show them where a certain deer he had killed 
and deposited was, and have them bring it in. The party started off at 10 a. m. 
A short time after, sent Sam out to get a deer-skin and the buck-meat my Joe had 
left on his way home yesterday. At 7 p. m., Sam returned, having been unsuc- 
cessful in finding my Joe's bundle, and at 8 p. m. Antoine and Pat returned, and 
a few minutes later Peter came in, having seen no deer. Asked Antoine how far 



360 naWs Account of the Mutiny. [Jniy, ises. 

he should think it was to where he and Pat got the deer they brought in ? An- 
swer, ten or twelve miles. When Peter came in, I asked him how far it was to 
the deer-deposit Antoine and Pat brought in, and he said about the same as the 
musk-ox deposit, six and a half miles, to where we went directly on the 23d. I 
asked him if he did not think that Pat and Antoine could have performed the 
service I sent them on in a little more than half the time of ten hours'? Answer, 
that he thought they could. I proceeded to the men's tent, and asked Antoine 
and Pat if they could not have made better time in the worli^ they performed 
today"? They, with much temper, replied they could not. I told them what 
Peter had told me, and said that it became them to be as expeditious as possible 
whenever I had work for them to do, reminding them of their spending a whole 
day a short time since in going out only some two miles after a couple of deer, 
when they might have done the same in one-fourth of the time. This was fol- 
lowed by a burst of real mutinous conduct on the part of Pat and Antoine, to 
which demonstration Sam and Peter seemed to be a party. Pat was the leader, 
and I felt for my own safety that something must be done to meet so terrible a 
blow as seemed ready to fall. I appealed to Pat esi)ecially to stop his mutinous 
talk and conduct. I was alone, though a small distance off were all the Innuits 
of the tent-village looking upon the scene. Pat was standing in the door of the 
tent (he and Antoine, when I first went into the tent, were seated in it, but as 
their rage increased they woi-ked themselves out to be in a circle of the other two), 
where he was delivering himself of the most rebellious language jjossible. I made 
an approach to him, i)utting my hand up before him, motioning for him to stop. 
He ;it once squared himself, doubling up his fists and drawing back in position, 
as it were, to jumii upon and fight me. Failing to make him desist without forci- 
ble means, I thought at first to give him a good drubbing, but knowing Pat to 
be of a powerful frame and muscle, nud that if I did make an attemi)t I should at 
once have a party of four upon me, I demanded of Peter my lifle, which he gave 
me. I hastened to my tent, laid down the rifle, and seized my Baylie revolvei', 
and went back and faced the leader of the mutinous crowd, and demanded of Pat 
to know if he would desist in his mutinous conduct ? His reply being still more 
threatening, I pulled trigger, and in a few minutes he staggered and fell. I 
wallced directly, but more as a man then suddenly dreaming, to the front of Papa^s 
tent, where was a crowd of frightened natives, passed the pistol to the hand of 
Ar-mou, which still had four undischarged loads in it, and then ran back and as- 
sisted in getting Pat to my tent. I supposed he could not live five minutes, but 
a Mightier hand than mine had stayed the ball from a vital part. 



July, 1S6S.] Death of Col em mi. 361 

The unhappy man, Patrick Coleman, Hngered from the 31st of 
July until the 14th of the following- month, during the whole of which 
time every effort was made by Hall to save his life by the use of all 
remedies at his command and by the most careful nursing, in which 
his other men took their full share. Antoine made a full confession of 
his having done wrong. The Innuits told Hall they had expected 
that the four mutinous men, whom he had encountered at the time of 
shooting one of them, would attack and endeavor to kill him, and that 
it had been their purpose to run to his rescue. 

He now participated in the anxious uncertainties felt by his men 
as to whether any whaling- vessel would visit the bay this year; and, 
if not, by what possible means he could reach York Factor}^ should 
his hopes of making a final journey to King William's Land entirely 
fail him. As far back as the 29th of July (before the mutin}^) he had 
written in his journal : 

I know not whether I and my company are to leave these regions this fall or 
not. Most assuredly I have had no doubts but we should. All my expectations 
and calculations have been to this point; but now as I look out upon Eepulse Bay 
and see it still fast in its ten months' icy chains, I must confess I begin to have 
doubts. Many times a day I ascend our lookout hill to take long and prolonged 
looks through my "spy" down to the southeastward, in the direction of the per- 
petual open water that sweeps through Hurd's Channel and Frozen Strait across 
to Beach Point, and thence rushes down Eowe's Welcome. IsTo ship there afar off 
to gladden my sight. It has been my plan that if none should enter Eepulse 
Bay by the 5th of August, I would embark in our boat Sylvia for York Factory. 
But will it be prudent to attempt the voyage in this boat! I know that Dr. Eae 
luade a successful voyage here from that place, and the next year returned to it. 
But his boats were large, heavy, and strong, and the Sylvia is of the lightest con- 
struction possible; her planks of cedar one-half inch thick only. 

During the illness of Coleman, it was found out that at least one 
of the other four men had said if he could not otherwise get a boat 



362 Release of the Surviving White Men. [August, ises. 

he would steal one, and go to York Factory with his fellows. Hall him- 
self, under the force of circumstances, had gained Ar-mou^s consent to 
have the Lady Franklin for their use, promising that the Sylvia should 
be at Ar-mou^s service so long as he should still remain in the country. 
But on the 16th he was relieved from these anxieties by the sight at 
anchor of the Ansell Gibbs and the Concordia. The four men were 
notified that they could make what arrangements they pleased for 
their return, and they all promptly shipped on these vessels, Lailor, 
whom Hall always commends, and on whom he had somewhat counted 
on to remain another year, shipping last of the party. Hall gave to 
each a certificate of his having served thi-ough tl e year and his note 
for the payment due. As for himself, although he found that he could 
make very few purchases from these vessels for his still expected jour- 
ney to King William's Land, he determined to stay. Mr. Grinnell had 
sent him some further supplies, and he would once more depend on his 
own labors and on the friendly Innuits. 

The first encouragement which followed this determination was 
the capture of another whale on the 31st of August. For this the 
natives were as anxious as himself The blubber was needed for fuel, 
the skin for food, and the meat chiefly for the dogs. When a fine rising 
of a coveted prize was now seen in the harbor, the native crews of the 
Sylvia and the Lady Franklin were quick to give chase under Hall's 
orders, and on the Lady Franklin's nearing the Avhale, Ar-mou splen- 
didly threw two irons into its flank, but unhappily not until the bow 
of the boat had struck the animal a few feet abaft the fins. From the 
swiftness with which the line ran out, it was clear that the whale had 
struck for soundings. But suddenly the line ceased to run and the boat 
began to move along with great rapidity, the line still slack ; she 



August, 1868. 



A Second Whale Captured. 



863 



careened, and was, at last, thrown completely on her beam ends, the 
explanation of which was that the whale had rushed along with the 
boat on its back. It was no wonder that at the time every man thought 
himself lost. But before long the boat righted, the oars on one side 
being cracked; one of them, destroyed. 




It was an hour from the first blow until the whale spouted blood 
and ended the struggle "with thunder-claps from its broad tail upon 
the waters." The natives on shore, Mdiile watching the fight, went 
through an an-lioot-ing performance for its successful issue. They 
aided in hauling the whale up on land, and began their feast from it 
that night at supper. Two days later, the whole company of men, 
women, and children, numbering more than fifty, went hard to work 
making deposits, when the women cut up and carried in their hands 
masses of the meat; the men dragged or carried on their shoulders 



364 Beer-Hunting at Talloon. [September, ises. 

blubber and meat; the children "bolted" pieces of the black skin; 
and trains of dogs pulled "horse-pieces" up the steep rocks. For 
cooking some of the meat, fires of bone and oil were made, the Innuit 
customs forbidding the gathering of wood at such times for fuel. 
Dried bones found scattered around were collected in a fire-place, 
which was only a few stones supporting a kettle, the bones answering 
the purpose also of a wick, and a very hot and sooty fire being thus kept 
up. The longest blades of bone of this whale measured seven feet; 
all were willingly and unanimously given by the natives to Hall. 
The cache was made at Iwillik. 

On the 1 2th of September, a removal was made, with few of the 
natives, to the west side of Talloon Bay, where they spent the rest of 
the month and the month following chiefly in deer-hunting. Hall 
himself on one day shot five deer in five minutes, and Too-koo-li-too 
became quite a marksman. 

November 4 a journey was undertaken to Lyon's Inlet to de- 
termine the location of some places in regard to which Hall had not 
been satisfied with Parry's chart. His companions were his old 
friend Papa-teiv-a, with one of his wives and a child ; his team was 
made up of ten dogs. On the 1 2th, the party were at the head of 
Haviland Bay; on the 14th, Ross Bay was crossed, and on the 17th 
an encampment made on the south shore of a peninsula to which the 
natives gave the same name with their northern settlement — Ig-loo-lik. 
Here Hall busied himself with the survey of the coasts and an exami- 
nation of the charmel called by Parry the Rush of Waters. Visiting 
the site of a stone pile spoken of by Captain Parry as put up for de- 
positing a memorandum in tlic absence of Mr. Sherer, one of the officers 
of his Second expedition (1821), Hall found it still undisturbed. Re- 






rr w cT' 



? =. .^ a 

5 P' r ^ 




November, 1868.] Joumeij to Lyon's Inlet. 365 

maining for some days in this locality, he discovered and surveyed a 
creek called by the Innuits Nee-bar-bic. He then learned that there 
was another bay on the east side of Lyon's Inlet corresponding in lati- 
tude to Parry's Norman Creek, and was thus able to understand some 
difficulties. Pany had erroneously given the Innuit name of his Nor- 
man Creek as Neeb-wa-wik, the pronunciation of which is close to 
that of Nee-bar-bic. When Hall had heard of this last creek from the 
Innuits he had taken it to be Parry's Norman Creek, and could not 
understand that the distinguished navigator had placed this ten miles 
out of position ; it was the application of the Innuit name only which 
was wrong. He was gratified by the discovery of a new creek in an 
inlet which Lyon had so thoroughly examined that he thought no arm 
or branch had been overlooked ; but believed that the approach had 
been hidden from these officers by a high island. 

When the party wished to encamp at night on the 14th of the 
month, they took possession of a newly-deserted igloo. It was dark 
at 4 p. m., when they entered, but soon afterward an Innuit known 
as Tom came in with his child from one of his deer-meat caches. He 
brought the news that Ar-tung-un — the man who at Ig-loo-iik had 
once exchanged names with Hall — was at the point of death in a vil- 
lage a little northward. Hall visited him the next day, but found 
that the poor consumptive was past saving, and was insisting that his 
son should end his suiferings by stabbing him or by shooting him Avith 
an arrow, against which Hall's earnest interposition was ineffectual. 
The i^foo which he had been occupying had been built hy Ar-timg- 
un's son, that he might remove to it instantly on his father's death, 
and so avoid the loss of several days of mourning. The day follow- 
ing he hung his father. 



366 Injured Instruments. [worember, ises. 

The note-books of this journey are filled up with the minutest 
details of the visits, of the observations attempted, of their computa- 
tions, and of the perplexities into which Hall found himself driven by 
the severity of the cold, the changing season, and the injuries renewed 
to his instruments, preventing the accuracy he so much desired for 
his work. 

The notes of the night of the 15tli of the month say : 

Tried my best to make observations for latitude of Jupiter, but though not 
a cloud in the heavens, yet the stars shine dimly and fine snow is falling. Usu- 
ally the sky is called hazy when it is really diffused aurora. 

Again, on the 20th : 

Nothing causes me greater regret than the poor instruments I have in the 
way of sextants. At nine this evening the heavens became clear, and I tried 
ray best to get some good observations of Jupiter, though he had passed the 
meridian. By several observations I could determine the latitude, but that only 
could I make. The silvering on the glasses is all cracked by the frost of several 
winters of the North. 

On the 28th, the moon at 8 p. m. was covered with a hazy 
atmosphere, but was gloriously surrounded by several circles: the 
outer one of rose color, then a lesser one of pea-green, then lilac, and 
then a knob of radiant light like the sun's. The outer circle was 
about 5° in diameter. 

His pocket-chronometer having provokingly stopped, he devised 
a plan for detecting a repetition of the fault; this was to place the chro- 
nometer in his hood and next his right ear. The fob was made by one 
of the Innuit women out of rabbit and deer skin. From the time he 
rose till he retired, the instrument lay next his ear as in the safest and 
most convenient place considering the calls upon it. When keeping 
it next his heai*t, it was warm and safe from any sudden jar. 



85°00 



13*^' IS 68. 



JOURNFA^ 



TO 



LYON\S INLET 

1868 



(ftV u new 1 1 lift , A' 
yives th.c TLarn e, 
iAT name of this Cr 




e- buT-hic. W(i.'i disvin 

Ne.eh - w n - w ik , to ]\'i> r 

°ek IS Kfvn-nnk-cl 



K."> "0 



November, 1868.] Discoverits Mttdt Ifl 1868. 367 

The exposures to which he had been ag-ain subjected on his jour- 
ney held him close for a day or more in his igho, where he wrote on 
the 25th: " Snatches only of sleep have I had for several nights. In 
noting down my work as well as in taking observations, I have had 
my right thumb frost-bitten, and that, when I did not know it." The 
aurora of that date, the finest of all he had witnessed, he could not 
attempt to describe. 

The 29th of the month saw him back in his old quarters on the 
bay. In a letter to the President of the American Geographical 
Society, written after his return to the United States, reviewing the 
geographical explorations he had made on the two journeys of this 
year, he claims the discoveries of a new inlet, lat. 67° N., long. 84^ 
30' W., a few miles north of Norman Creek; a bay on the west side of 
Fox Channel, lat. 69° N., long. 81° 30' W.; a lake twenty-five miles 
in length, lat. 68° 45' N., long. 82° W. ; and a second lake, in lat. 69° 
35', fift)^ miles in length, with its two outlets, the lake running par- 
allel with Fury and Hecla Strait. Also, two islands : one northwest 
of the west end of that strait and the other at its east end. What he 
considered accomplished of the most importance geographically, was 
the completion of the coast-line around the northwest side of Melville 
Peninsula to Cape Crozier. The bay now discovered was said to have 
an entrance from Barrow Strait, lat. 73° 43' N., long. 83° W., and to 
extend very nearly in a southerly direction to about the 71st degree 
north latitude. The natives had assured him that at times they killed 
in it five whales in a day, and that it abounded in the smooth-back 
(Baloena mysticetus) and in narwhals and seals. It was free from ice 
every summer, and promised to be of as much value to whalers as 
Cumberland Sound. 



368 



Winter Quarters at Talloon. 



[December, 1868. 



Returning from the last of these surveys, made as has been seen 
after the full setting in of the cold of November, Hall had before him 
a period of four months to be passed through before a sledge trip for 





the Franklin Records could be renewed. The first half of this period 
was spent in rest and amid the winter festivities of the natives ; the 
second half was a time of the severest labor and fatigue in preparing 
provisions for his next and last journey before returning to the United 
States. 



jannary, 1869.] The NoowooJc NttUves ut IwUUL 369 

The village near which he quartered himself now contained one 
hundred and twenty inhabitants, a number to which it had suddenly- 
risen by the coming in of some from Lyon's Inlet, who had heard of 
the whale captures. 

December and January were spent by this people in a round of 
amusements, feastings, and gynmastics. A low kind of gambling, 
spoken of as " whirling a trigger," was supplemented by renewed 
an-Jcoo-ting performances, all of which were broken in upon at times 
by long and weary journeys through snow and ice to renew from 
their deposits exhausted supplies of food. The natives, as was to be 
expected, were often very improvident, voraciously consuming a load 
of as many as five deer in an hour after bringing them in, and then 
suffering from absolute want. On the first day of the new year, the 
fifth which Hall had now spent in the North, he entertained at din- 
ner all those Avho had been with him through his first winter at 
Noo-wook. Ten of the forty-two had died, and but two children had 
been born. 

He was aided by the natives during the winter more fully than 
ever before, no alienations such as have been sometimes referred to 
again occurring; but his chief difficulty seems to have been an excess of 
cordiality on their part, which broke in upon him while working up 
the observations made on his trip to Lyon's Inlet. His igloo was 
sometimes filled with men, women, and children, keeping up a constant 
jabbering, humming, crying, and begging; noises which made him 
say that if he could have some retirement, it would be the blessing of 
an earthly heaven. They often gave him further disquiet by unscru- 
pulously laying hands on his own stores — never asking leave. 

Papa Tew-a, on one of the bleak days of January, drew for him, 
S. Ex. 27 24 



370 



Pa-pals Sketch of Pond's Bay. 



[January, 1860. 



in his igloo, the accompanying sketch of Pond's Bay, Plall writing 
down fi'om dictation the names corresponding to Pa-pa's numbers. 



1. 

2, 

3, 
4, 

5. 
G. 

7, 
8, 
9. 

10, 
11, 
12, 

13, 

14, 
15, 
16, 
17, 

18, 



SKETCH OF POND'S BAY, DRAWN BY THE INNUIT PAPA. 

19. See-er-wok-too-u. 



Too-e-joo. 

Oo-gla. 

Discharging glacier. 

4. Too-loo-yer. 

Grounded icebergs. 

Sliar too. 

Ing-nut-ta-lik. 

Large and high grounded iceberg. 

Ou-kee-lee-arli-tung. ( The penin- 
sula.) 

Ou-ti-eetoo. {Glacier.) 

A bay abounding in whales. 

A roof-like hill, on an extensive 
plain. 

Koo-ook-ju-a. {A very high water- 
fall; tenting place there.) 

E-te-u-yer. 

Two remarkable rocks. 

Too-noo-nee. 

Kuug-e-er-a. 

Neer-ker-oon. 



20. Too-arn. 

21. Ung-ma. 

22. Kik-kik-te-ting-nun. 
I 23. Kik-kiktuk-jua. 

i 24. Ini-me-le. {Lalce on this isle.) 
25. E-e-la. {Something liJce a windoiv in 
mountain-side.) 
j 26. A head of whalebone just below 
low tide. 

27. Kim-e-big. 

28. Too-loo-karn. {Four isles.) 

29. Kook-wiu-ar-loo. 

30. Toong-win. 

31. Kin-e-loo-kun. 

32. Ee-we-shar. 

32. Ee-ark-ju-a. {The point: a very high 

mountain and the wind heard con- 
stantly roaring at its top. 

33. Small island. 



From natives of the inlet he received some singular accounts of 

minerals found there. 

Native iron in great abundance. Stones that arc of very fine grain, look 
pretty, and stand upright ; the same being long, slender, and like round sticks of 
wood ; some elastic, that is, will bend. Also a great many pretty stones that are 
transparent, just as clear as crystal, like the sun-glass given to Ar-1ca-too. From 
the description of some of these stones, or I should say of some other kinds which 
are also like glass in appearance, I cannot well compichend what they be, for Ar- 
Jca-too says, as the sun is shining on them, if the hand shadows them, away they 
go down in the ground, appearing to act as though alive. By great carefulness 
Inuiiits have succeeded in catching now and then some of these wonderful stones, 



[rcbrnary, 1809. Minerals from Admiralty Inlet. 371 

aud whenever tliey do thus siicceed, the stones are hard and glass-like. This 
seems to be myth-like to me, hut some one in the States may And this matter 
explainable. * # * 

Since writing the above, I have looked into the Admiralty Manual of Sci- 
entific Inquiry and found the following: "With regard to dimorphism, or the 
crystallization of the same chemically composed substances in diftereut forms 
• * * , right rhomboidal crystals of sulphate of nickel exposed in a vase 
to the sun were found changed in the interior without jjassing through the liquid 
state into octahedrons with a square base, the exterior crust of the original crys- 
tal retaining its first form." (Pp. 251 and 252, edition of 1851.) 

That there is something peculiar in these crystals of Admiralty Inlet that 
makes all the Innuits there, and all distant Innuits who have heard about them, 
think they are sometimes as though alive, I do not doubt from the deeply -inter- 
esting account given by Ar-M-too. 

Early in the month of January the natives renewed their sealing 
on the ice of the bay, and Hall's party again fixed their headquarters 
at Talloon, in a commodious igloo built on a lakelet, where a well of 
pure water was easily made near the bed-platform of the hut. The 
igloo was made comfortable for eleven inhabitants. It was carefully- 
lined with skins hung within five or six inches of the snow-walls, mak- 
ing inside of it a tupik. This main building was an oval 22 feet long, 
1 3 wide, and 8 feet high, and was connected by a tooJc-soo (passage-way). 
It had six store-house huts. The floor of the passage-way, as usual, 
was lower in the middle than either at the doorway or at the entrance 
of the main building. A door of hard snow for each store-house was 
fitted into a casemate of the same " pure white marble." 

In these quarters the chief business of February and of March was 
the drying of venison over the native lamps — a slow and very laborious 
process. While this was going on, the door-ways were closed, and 
five lamps whose united length of wick was fifty-six inches, were 
kept blazing day and night, consuming 78 pounds of blubber a week. 



372 Preparation of Pemmican. [March, is69. 

By continuing the work nearly every day, 170 pounds of thoroughly 
dried meat, equal to 680 pounds of the fresh, were obtained. This, 
mixed with tood-noo was good pemmican.* For a sufficient supply of 
food for the dogs on the journey Hall was soon to undertake, he was 
dependent on the natives, who with great difficulty caught for him a 
walrus far out on the ice. His health was better than at any previous 
time of his residence in the North; lie never had a touch of scurvy. 
His thorough adoption of the Innuit dress fully protected his person, 
so that, with the exception of slight frost-bites on his face, he sustained 
no bodily injury from severe exposures. He took exercise only when 
necessary to procure supplies or when inclination prompted; — never for 
the sake of exercise purely: but he found his strength and power of 
endurance to increase, as is shown by his readily walking off for some 

* When Hall left the United States in 1854 he coutracted for 500 pounds desiccated beef 
incorporated with 500 pounds of beef-suet tallow and put up in tin cans of 25 pounds each. He had 
now learned the value of this pemmican in days bordering on starvation, on which he had some- 
times fallen. Hence his great labor at the date of setting out finally on so long a journey. In 
this connection it may be of interest to refer to the provision made by the distinguished Arctic 
explorer Richardson when setting out on his boat voyage through Rupert's Laud in 1851. The 
most ample means for the i)reparation of full supplies was in his hands. He describes it follows: 
"A round or bullock of beef of the best quality having been cut into thin steaks, from which 
the fat and the membranous parts were pared away, was dried iu a malt-kiln over an oak-firo 
until its moisture was entirely dissipated and the fibre of the meat became friable. It was then 
ground in a malt-mill, when it resembled finely-grated meat. Being next mixed with nearly an 
equal weight of melted beef suet, or lard, the preparation of plain pemmican was complete; but 
to render it more agreeable to the unaccustomed jialate a proportion of the best Zante currants 
was added to part of it, and part Avas sweetened with sugar. Both these kinds were luucli 
approved of in the sequel by the consumers, but more especially that to which the sugar had been 
added. After the ingredients were well iucorporated by stirring, they were transferred to fin 
canisters, capable of containing 85 pounds each ; and having been firmly rammed down and 
allowed to contract further by cooling, the air was completely expelled and excluded by filling 
the canister to the brim with molted lard through a small liolo left in the end, which was then 
covered with a piece of tin and soldered up. 

"The meat in drying loses more than three-fourths of its original weight; 35,G5I pounds 
were reduced to about 8,000. » » # -pfj^ natives of the Northwest dry their venison 
by exposing thin slices to the heat of the sun on a stage under which a small fire is kept, more 
for the purpose of driving away the flies by the smoke than for promoting exsiccation, and then 
tlicy pound it between two stones on a bison-hide. In this process the pounded meat is contami- 
uated by a greater or mualler admixture of hair or other impurities." 



March, 1869.1 Eeadifiess for Another Sledge Journey. 373 

distance in a rue-rad-dy (harness) with a sled-load of 429 pounds, the 
sled-shoeing of which was iced moss. Healthful occupation of the 
mind, devotion to the work still before him, and a continued friendly 
intercourse with the natives and participation in their amusements 
and hunts were, doubtless, the additional causes of his freedom from 
sickness and casualty during this season, as they had been through 
the preceding four winters. 

By the 21st of March he had nearly completed his preparations 
for a start. To secure dogs and^their food, three trips were made inland 
and two to a settlement on the ice; requiring in all a journey of 170 
miles. Nearly six hundred balls were molded over a coal-fire in a 
small stove belonging to Ar-mou. The stores which he was to leave 
behind were placed in charge of his Innuit friends to whom presents 
were made, the packages of which were each labeled with a tag having 
on it the picture of an animal, as a help to Ar-movJs memory in deliver- 
ing them to each friend. All appear to have been at this time cor- 
dial well-wishers of his success, a goodly number of them being pro- 
fessedly ready to go with him.* 

* They were probably again ready for a cbauge. The two preceding mouths had been to 
them a season of unusual suffering from cold, and at times from want. But few seals had been 
caught. The severity of the cold had been experienced throughout a fearful gale in January, 
lasting through ten consecutivo days ; and in February there was the uni^recedentea occurrence 
of a burying up of their snow village, closely endangering the lives of all the Innuits. In one of 
the huts, a child, which had rolled a little way out from its mother's sleeping-robe, froze into ice. 
The Journal of January 25 had read : " Still another day (the seventh) of the severest storm I have 
ever witnessed. All day yesterday, the wind was but one degree less than a hurricane force ; and 
it was with great danger that I ventured out from the toolcsoo, to visit my Wind Indicator, thougli 
the distance is not more than 20 yards. The storm is right abeam, and the only way to keep 
myself erect is by strong bracing against and reclining on the wind; yet vv'ith all this precaution, 
now and then the wind will lilt and drive mo tumbling and rolling like a drunken man. II has 
been so charged too with drift, that it has been impossible to designate whether the sky was 
clouded or fair : I suspect that the latter is the case, for I could see the moon to-night dimly 
through the drift, which appeared to be the only obstruction. This p. m. the drift changed from 
the soft, pliant, impactable kind to that of dry sand (so to speak); and then hy attrition the snow- 
walls of our edilices began to be destroyed. An alarming fact was then x^alpable — that we shoukl 



374 Readiness for Another Sledge Journey. [march, isgs. 

Hall was in high spirits when, on the 22d of the month, he ad- 
vanced a load of provisions to North Pole Lake, and he would have 
started out on that day with his full stores and his ammunition and 
weapons to meet even the Neitchille tribes, had not a severe gale set 
in. Tlie dela}^ of one day was a trial. 

soon bo shelterless in this most pitiless storm unless wo could devise some way to stay the swift 
destruction. Papa Tcwa and I, in our full winter rig, ventured out with a desperate determina- 
tion, sought our way here and tliero about the building, and throw up banks of snow agaiu.st such 
walls as had been entirely worn ihrough, or were nearly so; at one exposed place of our castle we 
fastened a large deer shin across the hole by pegs driven into the walls. But for the moonlight, 
though dim, it would have been a doubtful case as to our staying the ravages of Ihe sand-like 
(b-ift. The whole dome was destroyed at night, but it was not of the hardest compact snow. 
When it was rebuilt it was again lined with seal and walrus skins, which when first brought 
into the hut were stiff with ice, but after hanging within for an hour comnn'nced dripping. 
The ice was then poimdcd from them. 

Ebierbing, with some of his friends, came in on the next evening after traveling all day 
undcT the coutinuauce of this storm; the drift so thick that at times, the dogs were completely 
hidden from the driver's sight. On asking what made him venture out, he answered, " Because 
we are so hungry." The Innuits out on the ice of the bay for sealing (numbering one hundred 
and ten persons) are all suffering ; Joe brought to our igloo a drug of Ook-gook oil & blubber, 
on getting which from a cache, they found that the Polar Bears had eaten \\\i the meat. 

Under renewed necessities forced upon us, Joe visited a Fox-trap a uule and a half from 
Iwillik and found two prize swithin. The stone trap was of a jieculiar kind. Built uj) of a 
semi-globular shape, about four feet in diameter & four feet in height, it had a hole near the top 
large enough only for a fox to squeeze himself in. The animal on scenting the meat jumps down 
to the bottom, as, at times, ton or more of them are found to have done. Once in, there is no 
getting out. 



Chaptei^ 




JOURNEY TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND RETURN TO 

THE UNITED STATES. 

MARCH 23 TO SEPTEMBER 26, U!G9. 



CHAPTER XTII. 



Hall degins nis final joukney to King William's Land — Route towaed Pelly Bay the 

SAME with that FOLLOWED IN 1806 AND 1867 — THE CACHE MADE IN 1867 REACHED— 

Safety of the stokes— Deposit made fob the return journey — Encamps on Lake 
Tep-suk-ju-a, April 8 — On Augusta Isiand, April 11 — Meets Pelly Bay natives — 
Peculiarities of the ice forjiation — Flying sledge trip to the igloos — Franklin 
RELICS — Hall's nati\-es alarmed — Their fears quieted — Musk-ox hunt near Simp- 
son's Lake— Neitchille natives met — Conversations with In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — 
More Franklin relics — Encamps on Todd's Island — Graves of Franklin's men vis- 
ited NEAR Peffer River — Graves on Todd's Island — Deep snow prevents further 
SEARCH — Unwillingness of the natives to remain — Return to Repulse Bay — Infor- 
mation FROM In-nook-poo-zhe-jook on the route — Abundance of game from King 
William's Land to Repulse Bay — Musk-ox hunts — Hall's letter giving the results 
OF this joupjjey — Arrives at Repulse Bay — Plans of return to the United States — 
Occupations during June and July — Places the bone of his second whale and 
HIS musk-ox skins on the Ansell Gibbs — Hunts the bear and the deer at Whale 
Point — Sails for the United States — Arrives at New Bedford, September 2.'), 1F6'J. 

The first page of Hall's note-book for March 23, 1869, has on its 
face the same cheerful words with those recorded in setting out on his 
hopeful journey of 1866 — 

" Now FOR King William's Land !" 

Neither the long and discouraging period of four and a half years 
through which he had passed, nor the repeated inducements oifered 
to return to the United States, were permitted to stand in the way 
of renewing this inscription. 

His party now consisted not of white men on the plan proposed 

377 



378 



Final Journey to King William's Land. 



[March, ]8(>9. 



in 1866, but of five Eskimo men, three women, and two cliildren. 
These were Ebierbing- and Too-koo-H-too, with their adopted dau^^hter, 
Pun-ny ; Oii-e-la, Pa-pa, Nu-Jcer-^hoo, his wife {Pun-ny's mother), Ech- 
clwo-ar-choo (Jerry), and his wife, with infant in her hood : in all, 
eleven souls. 




SETTING OVT FOU KING WILLIAM'S LAXD, JLMiCH 23, 18(i9. 

Proposing to follow his old route from Gibson's Cove to Pelly 
Bay, and remembering that nearly the same route had been well 
charted l)y Dr. Rae, he thought it unnecessary to occupy his time and 
attention with astronomical observations on this part of the journey ; 
and for like reasons would dispense with compass bearings, taking 
care, however, to record the actual distances traveled. Ex2)erience 
strengthened his purpose of conforming to the natural custom of the 
Eskimos in making at tlie outset but short daily advances with heavily- 



y 



march, 1S69.I The Sledges Heavily Laden. 379 

loaded sledges ; this was additionall)^ necessary to inure himself and 
party for a journey involving all the hardships and the length of time 
now required. A gale blowing with the force of 8 prevailed at tlie 
time of starting out ; it had tlie peculiarity of many Arctic storms in 
its being filled with drift for a few feet upward only, while " above all 
was clear as a bell." At 10 p. m., they completed the first ifjloo on the 
east side of North Pole Lake, and retired to sleep on a full Arctic 
meal. The quantity of food consumed by the party of eleven for 
their supper and for breakfast the next morning, was forty -four pounds, 
exclusive of coffee and molasses ; Hall says he allowed every one to 
eat as much as he would, and he himself ate as much as any one. In 
the morning, a heavy drift, with a cutting wind from the northwest, 
discouraged the Innuits ; yet the}^ went forward to please their leader. 
At this time he had loaded the sledges more heavily than on any of his 
previous journeys, for on weighing them accurately, he found that the 
gross weight of the sledge Grinnell was 2,724 pounds, and that of Bre- 
voort, 2,'^21, making an aggregate of 5,245 pounds, exclusive of the 
weight of any of the party who might ride. This was an average of 
292 * pounds for each of his eighteen dogs when all the travelers 
walked. But the lame dog Sylvia was not at the first attached to 
either sledge, and for several days six of the others were missing; 
the rest were, at times, busy with their usual fights. The runners of 
sledge Brevoort — 16 feet in length, with a depth of 10 inches — were 
shod with slabs from the jaw-bone of a whale. Its seventeen cross- 
bars were each 2 feet 1 1 inches. 



*Lyon, in his Journal of the Hecla, under Parry, says that his nine dogs drew 1,611 pounds 
on a sledge of wooden runners, neither shod nor ieed, a mile in nine minutes; and that, hud his 
sled been iced, 40 pounds more could have been put upon it for every dog. Hall's loads exceeded 
Lyon's, and were for a long pull. 



380 



The Chronometers. 



imarch, 1^69. 



The second igloo was made on North Pole Lake where it narrows 
by a projecting- point of hmd on the east side ; and their third M^as on 

Christie Lake, close by the one made on the 5th 

of April, 1866. Hall was again much troubled 

}/m4mif^ by the repeated stopping of his chronometers,* 







DEKR-SKIN BOOTS. 



SKAL-bJvl.N FOUT-GHA 1{. 



SKAL-SKLN I'OOT-GEAK. 



which led him into errors in recording his dates ; he was unable to cor- 
rect these until the middle of the month following. To relieve his 
own weakened team, he and Fa-pa walked for some time in the rue- 



* His metliod of correcting his chrouoiiietcrs may l)c learued from the following notes 
(literally copied) made at the earlier dates of November 19 and 28 of a previous year : 

"November 19. — On arising this morning, I found to my dismay that my Eggert's chro- 
nometer, which I now use as my standard, had stojjped. My rule is: the 1st thing before rising 
in the morning to wind up Ward's chronom., whicli I keej) on my person (hiy & night, and then 
wind Eggert's, which I keep in a little tin trunk that sits on the bed-])latforin between my bed & 
the wall of the igloo. Fortunately I compared the chronometers on the 16th ; therefore this gives 
the basis for resetting my standard. 

Ward slow on M. T. Ft. Hope (present encampment) 5"" 17'' 

Ward hising per day 1.5^85 X 3 days to date (19th) =47''.5r) 

Subtract 3 seconds as I compare chrouometers at xi a. m. (approx.) 3* ^ -f- 45 



19th— Ward slow on M. T. Ft. Hope, xi a. m 6'" .02 

Long. Ft. Hoi)e W. Greenwich - v"" 47 .44 



Ward slow ou M. T. Greenwich v .53 

Compare clirououieters : 

1st comparison : 2d comparison : 

Eggert V 3.54 v .5 

Ward... xi 3 xi 4 6 



.46 



(■) 0,54 () 0.54 

Eggert's fast on Ward C 



r.4 



01' 



O-;" 



Eggert's fast on (ireen wich M. T 

"No dotibt there will now be a new rate for Eggert's, and this I must determine by some 
star or ))laiiet, as the sun is now too low for timt; ])uri)oses. The rate of Eggert's, previous to its 
running down, was — h)sing 2H«.6 ])er day." 



illarch, lSti9.J 



The Chronometers. 381 



raddy (harness) alongside of sledge Grinnell. Ou-e-la here struck off 
to the west side of \he lake, to visit the spot where his brother Ar- 
too-a was drowned from his hi-a. Nu-lier-zhod's wife confirmed the 
account of the Franklin party as given by her in the previous year by 
pointing out the spot where she wath others had here seen the strange 
white men going south. 

His work was continued on the first favorable day -which followed (the 23d), thus : 
"At ixi^ 19"", by Ward's chronometer, the rising sun was shining on the upper part of Bea- 
con Hill, from the crest down some seventy-five feet. At ix'' "25™, by same chro., the sun's semi- 
diameter was above the crown of a hill about one mile to the southward and eastward, 100 feet or 
so above the level of the sea. My place of observation was on the top of the abrupt hill next to 
N. Pole River, directly opposite or northeast of Beacon Hill, and elevated, say, 75 feet above the 
sea. 

Compare chronometers, S*" 6™ 0^ p. m., by Ward's of this day (23d, civil time) : 

(23d) Eggert's, viiih C™ 0^ (G. M. T. on deducting 5"' 10«). 
(23d) Ward's, 2i' &^ 0' (Fort Hope M. T. on adding 7"> &■). 

WardslowonE 6 

Now to determine (in the absence of any late astronomical obs. for time) whether or not 
Eggert's has the same rate since restarting it on the 19th inst. that it had before it ran down, I 
proceed thus : 

1st comparison of chros. on the 19th was at xii^ 3™ a. m. by Ward or astronomical T . 18'^ 23'' 3'" 
2d " " " to-day (23d) was at 2'i 6" p. m. by Ward or astronomical T. 23 2 6 



[< 



4 3 3 
.(or4'J.1271) 
Interval betw. 1st and 2d comparison, using the former rate, Eggert's losing per day. 28.G X 

Loss m 4''. 1-271 r 11S.035 06 



. r lit 
L 1- 



-58 
Eggert's fast on G. T., 1st comparison 7" 8» 

Eggert's fast ouG. T., 2d comparison 5 10 

Time by Eggert's on 2d —&" 6"' 0^ 

Time G. M. T. on 2d 8 50 

Time by Ward's on 2d 2 6 00 

Therefore Ward's slow on G. M. T 5 54 50 

Long. Fort Hope west of G. in time 5 47 44 

Ward slow on M. T. Fort Hope 7 6 

Ward slow on M. T. Fort Hope (19th), 1st comparison 6"^ 2^ 

Ward rate 15.85 (losing per d.) multiplied by the interval 1st and 2d 

comp'n 4'i.l271 = 65".414536=:l°' 5«.4= 7 7.4 

1.4 
Computing Ward's gives the same result. 
The 2 chionoms. have probably maintained their old rates. 



382 The Chronometers. [March, is69. 

The day following-, Hall succeeded in discovering the tracks of 
the missing dogs, brought them all in, and made up an equal team 
for each sledge. He was tempted to follow the Innuit preventative of 

Another way of gaining the same result. 

Tlic difference of tlio 2 chronoin. ou 1st comp'n (19th) fi'' 0™ 54^ 

The difference of tbo 2 chi'onoui. preseut date GO 



54 

Eggert's loss iu the iuterval 4^. 127 1 ( X 28.6 losing per d. ) llSd.Oa^ 

Ward's loss iu the interval 4 .1871 (X 15.85 losing per d.) 65 .41 



52.62 



1.38 
Thus the difference in the results between couiputing the rate of Eggcrt's alone and api)ly- 
iug it to Eggert's as the standard, and that of computing the rate of both and .applying them to 
each resijectively, is only about one second and a half, or, as above, 1=.38. 

Without noticing the fevc seconds in the rates of the chronometers in the interval from 
ix'' 25'" a. m. to 2'' 6™ p. m. (both by Ward), I will proceed to comi^uto for the apparent time of 
sunrise tliis morning to this latitude, wliich is N. 6(P 32'. 
Let the basis be ix'' 25"" a. m. by Ward, the time when the sun had \ its disk above 

the hill to the southward &. eastward or astronom. time 22'' 21^ 25"' 0^ 

Ward slow on M. T. Ft. Hope 7 6 



Astronomical time Fort Hope 22 21 32 6 

Add long, of Fort Hope W. of G v 47 44 



GreenwichM.T 23 3 19 50 

Equation 13 18 



Greenwich apparent time 23 3 33 08 

Without going through the whole process, I will simply state that the result is the approxi- 
mate hour angle of the suu's rising, which is 2'' 3"' 12= or ix'' 56"' 48= a. m. apparent time. Now 
for precision take this latter time and work out the time the sun's centre would be ou the sea 
horizon if Ihere were no atmosphere, or, in other words, if there were no refraction: 

ixi' 56'" 48= a. m. of 23d, civil time, or 22'i 21'' 56'" 48» 

Fort Hope, diff. of long. W. of G v 47 44 



G. api). time 23 3 44 32 

(23-3.74) 
S. Dec. (23d.) 20" 25' 2j.5" 31".01 per h. 



1 .''5.97 



S. 20^ -..7' -i-iX," 



74 



115.977.4 



1.55.97 

Lat. 66'-' 32', tang .. 10.3(!2.384 
S.Dec. 20°27i, tang.. 9..571.774 



Cosine 9.934.158 

2'' 3'" 2« hour angle. 



ix 56 58 a. ni. 
Time ap|iarenl sun's centre on the horizon not allowing any refiaction." 



siarch, 1869.] Tlic Slcds Re-iccd. 383 

their running off, i. e., by tying up one of the forelegs to the neck. 
At 5 p. ni., doubhng up his teams, he ascended Ira-nuk-too, the narrow 
neck of land at the end of the mile-long lake which forms the water- 
ished between Committee Bay and Repulse Bay, and at G.50 encamped 
on the south side of Eae's Six Mile Lake. The travel was excel- 
lent, although the snow was soft and deep. 

Halting the next day near running water from Miles Lake, the 
opportunity was embraced of thawing out the whale-meat and tongue, 
146 pounds of which, placed in the river, had the frost taken out in one 
hour; this was fed to the hungry dogs, and they were permitted a day's 
rest, as the snow in advance of them was discovered to be still very 
soft. From the top of a hill near by, the sea of Ak-koo-lee, with its 
vast extent of jumbled ice, was seen by Joe and Nuk-er-zhoo (Jack) — 
a sea, according to Ou-e-Ia, to which in olden times Innuits resorted in 
the fall to kill deer, on the meat of which they lived during the winter, 
brinffinff whale-blubber from Iwillik for their fuel. 

At 10.13 a. m., March 31, the party reached Cape Lady Pelly, the 
journey from the point last named having few items of interest. 
Musk-ox tracks, which once before had threatened to entice the 
natives off their route, were now plentiful on the banks of the sand- 
hills near the sea. "Jack" carelessly ran Brevoort sledge across a spit 
of gravel ; Grinnell followed suit, and both sleds were halted for 
re-icing, when the successful experiment was tried of re-mossing Grin- 
nell sledge with a mixture of snow-water and urine, the latter mak- 
ing the compound less liable to break up. At Point Hargrave a huge 
drift had been encountered, into which both sleds were compelled to 
plunge by the roughness of the ice close up to shore. These incidents 
held back the advance. In the evening, as soon as the igloos were up, 



384 The Stores of 1866 Still Safe. [Aprii.iseg. 

one of the women set the lamps agoing and melted the sea-ice for 
water; the others covered in the huts, while Hall pounded up the whale- 
blubber. 

When he arrived at the cache which he had made on May 10, 
1867, by transfer of his stores from their deposit of 18G6, he found 
them still in good condition; his notes, which give the time of this 
arrival to the exact second of the hour on the 2d of the month, record 
the expression, "Thanks be to God!" The bags of bread, sugar, 
coffee, flour, and " Borden-meal biscuit" were frozen fast in a mass, 
and in endeavoring to separate these, a large rent was made in a coffee- 
bag, sacrificing a small part ; another portion had become sodden 
by water finding its way from a sloping surface of rock near by into 
the rubber bag; these bags, however, had preserved the virtue of 
the larger part. The coffee had been presented by Mr. J. Carson 
Brevoort, of New York; it was browned and ground by Hall in the 
spring of 1866. The pemmican in the hermetically-sealed cans, the 
sugar and the brandy, frost-proof, were found in perfect condition; the 
tea was mouldy. The whole of these stores were at once removed to 
camp, and an excellent supper was set for all. Of the brandy, one 
tablespoon, sugar-sweetened, and with hot water, was served out to 
each, the dose being repeated in fifteen minutes. The remembrance 
of tliis article being in the deposit which he helped to make in 1867 
had already ins})ired "Jack" when approaching the cache and in his 
work of unearthing it. For use on his return journey. Hall again 
made a deposit of part of the stores just named under the same rock 
at Cape Weynton which had covered them when left there in 1866. 

From the Cape he was now to turn his face westward to the long- 
desired King Wilham's Land ; but he at once experienced a renewal 



April, 1869.] Belays hy the Innuits 385 

of the unwillingness of his Innuit party to go forward. They were 
tardy in making any preparations for advance; they made their old 
pleas of the necessity for their dogs being rested, and contended about 
the proper route to be pursued He says : " If I ever get to the end 
of my journey with such an untamable party it will be a great feat 
indeed ; they look to Joe also for an example, and he is taking life 
cosily and lazily." Under some uncertainties as to the best course on 
this first part of the westward route, Ou-e-la, on whom the main 
dependence was to be placed, preferred the one which he said had 
been formerly taken by himself and his father across the land from 
Colvile Bay; and "Jerry," the Pelly Bay native, concurring in this. 
Hall submitted to their direction. Starting again on the 4th of April, 
at 6.46 a. m., on a northwest course, he found the land very low and 
covered with snow, except where patches here and there had been laid 
bare by the winds. The weather became stormy and the travel heavy. 
The Innuits expressed their surprise at the ease with which he could 
direct their new course by the compass, and Ou-e-la again showed his 
native intelligence and his habit of observing time correctly b)^ halt- 
ing of his own accord at nearly the very moment at which Hall had 
told him he might halt when the chronometer-hand should indicate it; 
but the next day he was mistaken in his supposition that he could 
himself find the route, and was willingly guided by Hall's compass. 

On the 7th, the chronometers gave more satisfaction, running well 
by careful nursing. The course for the next two days was still to the 
northward and westward ; the land was still very low and gradually 
sloping. Descending the steepest of a few hills which they crossed, 
the party came upon their first small lake, and a little farther on upon 

a second, which Hall at first supposed to be Dr. Rae's Cameron Lake, 

S. Ex. Ii7 25 



386 Near Cameron Lake. [Apru, iseo. 

but found his error before the close of another day. He had passed 
several deserted igloos and several Innuit stone monuments on the 
ridges of little hills, on one of which was found a knoll of solid rock, 
with Innuit stones set up in lines. 

The discouragements did not diminish. Some of the Innuits rode 
very freely upon the sledges, and "Jerry" suffered himself to be even 
caught on one of them fast asleep. Hall, who throughout all liis expe- 
ditions seems to have expected that every one would in some degree 
share his enthusiasm, singularly enough records here that the natives 
had no appreciation of his mission, but must continually lose time by 
stopping to smoke and talk ; yet he adds that it was surprising that the 
dogs could make any headway at all, as the sledges sank down full 
six inches all the way, and at one time stuck fast in a huge drift on 
the hill-side. Dr. Rae's chart was a guide to be fully relied upon, even 
without the aid of the compass. Hall accounts for a mistake which 
he thinks Rae made in regard to putting Colvile Bay on his map, by 
attributing it to the low and level character of the land where he 
expected to strike it. By Ou-e-la^s advice he made his fourteenth 
encampment on the 8th on the new lake which they had reached, 
Its Innuit name is Tep-suk-ju-a; Hall notes its trending to the north- 
west. Hei'e Ou-e-la very significantly said that this was the place 
where his father and the Repulse Bay Innuits made their halt before 
their meeting with the Pelly Bay natives. 

The next day, to make a more rapid advance, the dogs were fed 
at an early hour ; the whole amount supplied to them being, however, 
but 60 pounds — a half feed. The men of the party were ready for a 
vigorous start, for their strength had been renewed by a pemmican 
su})per the night before. The butter at the morning meal was the 



t(^8":v/ 




&H"flO:- 



(,1 00 



'.n' 



KING WILLIAMS LAND 

Matheson 1. 



9 b 









31. 



Enci 



5C^ 



ephercLB. , 



Jy 



T 



CjEot' 



f^. 



.^ 



'' «Efi stern Todd Id- C. Selkirk < 

Tivldld.. 
^r'. RK'hardsoJi 



---A>--- "~""A--/?v^V iV'jXJomTn^ttee Mounds 

]n<>Us Bar 9^ "-S^'^^^c 

^ 'Or^- ri~~-::::'^: . __.. 




JOURNEY 

TO 

KING WILLIAMS LAND 

18G9 



Grif1.rf^6ll'Ld1^'^-i 



^-c^.. 



-^^ 



Orave^ ofxwo white, rrv&n. 
Monument e;-6ct«.<i Ma* 
24 Trails ecu,t of Pe-ffe 



HO' 



!-)4- 



-a n M- 6 V -.1 .lyi niic alioU 



"A. 



April, 1869., Off the Old Route. 387 

best ooJc-gook oil, supplied to Hall by Pa-pa the winter before for his 
night lamp. Expecting- to meet Pelly Bay men before the close of the 
day, all the party busied themselves in getting their spears, knives, 
guns, and pistols in order, and at 10 a. m. moved off toward the 
northwes , end of the lake to descend the little river leading from that 
point to Pelly Bay. The snow was still deep and soft, the thermome- 
ter indicfiing 23°, a temperature uncomfortably warm for traveling. 
At noon, drawing near the end of the lake, highlands were found on 
each side, closely confining the banks of a river ; and here the first 
spots of bare ice were crossed, swept clean by the high winds through 
the gorge. 

Beginning now, as he supposed, to descend Kellett River, in two 
minutes he was surprised to find himself ascending frozen rapids where 
the compass-bearings had pointed out the true place of entrance. 
Continuing up this river, he passed a magnificent pile of rock structure 
200 feet high, looking like the side of a fortress, and having a kind of 
reddish moss far up on its cliffs ; the land on the other side also was 
high and bold, presenting a very different scene from the flats over 
which the party had been for several days passing. The dogs still 
drew their heavy loads through the deep snow which covered the ice 
of this river, and when halts were made to discover from neighboring 
hill-tops a route to the bay, the ruggedness of the mountainous land 
presented a discouraging prospect ; yet Hall consented to follow the 
advice of Oii-e-la by going forward rather than returning to the route 
of Rae's chart. Late in the day, detaching the dogs and putting 
bridles on the sledges, he made a dangerous descent to another lake 
at the foot of a steep and high hill, estimating this descent to be nearly 
400 feet in the quarter of a mile passed over. He was a good way off 



388 Augusta Island. [Aprii, iseo. 

from the route followed by Rae in 1854 through Kellett River. On 
the day following, however, shaping his course to the westward, he 
gladly saw the sea-ice directly ahead. Far as the eye could reach 
with the aid of a good glass the bay and every inlet were filled with 
very old and rough ice. At 11 a. m. he found this bay-ice very hum- 
mocky ; rounded hillocks in some places rising to the height of ten 
feet, while in others the ice was like waves of a heavy sea suddenly 
frozen in. At 1 p. m. he struck on Century ice The Innuits had 
anticipated this when they had found the ice of the sea of Ak-koo-lee 
in the same condition, and Ou-e-la, remembering that on his previous 
visit here with his father the ice had been smooth and fit for sealing, 
now expressed his belief that the Pelly Bay natives would not soon be 
met with, for they must have gone inland and southward to obtain 
subsistence ; the bay being probably full of old century ice, there could 
be no sealing. Having made some further advance across the ice. 
Hall fixed his sixteenth encampment on the 11th in the midst of the 
century ice near the east end of Augusta Island, Ou-e-la and Jerr}^ 
having on the way pointed out this island and the mouth of Arrow- 
smith River. Their bearings were taken. In recording the location 
of his encampment. Hall says : 

It is no wonder that my dead-reckoning may be faulty, with but the aid of 
» small compass across a plain unknown country; snow-clad; thick weather; 
snowing much of the time ; no object whatever in sight to aid in making straight 
courses; large variation of the compass; no sight of the sun, moon, or stars by 
which to determine latitude or the extent of variation of the compass, — 1 can de- 
termine by astronomical observations only the errors which are possible but not 
probable. 

At 7 p. m., an hour after his encamping, the sun burst forth in all 
its brightness, giving him the first sight of it since leaving his encamp- 
ment below Cape Weynton. 



April, 1869.1 New Igloos Discovered. 389 

The dogs had now again a whole day's rest and a full feed of 126 
pounds of Tiow ; then with full paunches they filled out the twenty- 
four hours with sleep. Not one of the eighteen had as yet given in, 
although their loads on the two sledges, including their food and the 
oil for fuel and eating, had been kept up to 2, 1 00 pounds. The party 
made another excellent breakfast, chiefly on the canned beef sent out 
by Mr. Grinnell on the Ansell Gibbs in 1866 ; it was better than what 
had been previously used, as the whole of the meat was fat, with no 
bones to be picked out, and more than satisfied their hunger, leaving 
a portion for use on the way. Hall now hoped that he would make 
good progress, and within ten days would put his foot on King Will- 
iam's Land. 

On resuming their journey, an igloo was seen which, it was at 
once determined, had been newly built, the quick perceptions of the 
Innuits crediting also its building to a left-handed man, for they saw 
that the spiral of the hut ran from the left to the right inside, contrary 
to the usual direction. The discovery of this igloo with its well-made 
took-soo suggesting the near presence of Pelly Bay natives, Hall sent 
out some of his company to find, if possible, their sledge-tracks ; but 
although three additional old igloos were seen, the natives were not yet 
overtaken. The huts last discovered had evidentl}^ been occupied in 
midwinter, and the occupants had had plenty of fire. Within one of 
these Hannah found a piece of ash wood, appearing to be the remains 
of an oar. 

When he left his last encampment. Hall had intended to make 
directly for the west side of the bay, and thence cross the land to 
the west, in order to look for the records and relics at some southern 
point on the sea estuary of Great Fish or Back River ; but now, seek- 



390 Century Ice. [April, is69. 

ing to come up with the Pelly Bay men, in the hopes of getting from 
them yet further information and even some papers of tlie Franklin 
Expedition, he changed his course to the northward. This led him 
over a narrow ice-flow of the previous winter's formation He camped 
on this floe, which was found to be good sealing ice — new, but some- 
what hummocky ; and from the top of a round hillock of century ice 
12 feet above the general level he cut the ice to melt for making his 
coffee. It was full of little cells, in which the salt of the sea- water once 
was, the cells being occasionally as large as the thumb, though gener- 
ally not larger than a pin-head. The surface had mud or clay im- 
bedded in it, while at a considerable depth, the crystals were pellucid, 
solid, and like fresh- water ice. On the floes of this Polar ice here and 

there were masses in the form of a berg. 
The century ice was ''a puzzle as to 
how and where it was formed," and an 
equal difficulty presented itself in the 
question "how the bergy masses of bare 
blue old ice got to the top from the mar- 
gin of the old floes." 

On the 10th, a flying sledge trip 
was decided upon to find the Pelly Ba)'- 
Innuits. At an early hour new spears 
were made by fixing bayonets to the 

SABRES CARRIED BY IIALL TO KING i i mi 1 

WILLIAM'S LAND. cnds of loug polcs. 1 here seemed reason 

(Presented to Mr. .1. J. Copp on lii.s , , i /> ^^ r j. c aX. 

return.) to fear an attack irom tlie tact ot the 

well-known dissensions long existing between the men of his party 
and these strangers ; aware of which. Hall had provided each sledge 
with rifles, gtins, bayonets, revolvers, a musk-ox and a seal spear, and 




April, 1M69. New Acquaintances. 391 

some ammunition. Still the heart of Pa-pa now failed him, and he 
wished to stop with the women in the camp, which proposition was 
declined. 

At 7.53 a. m., when the party again started, the sun was out, 
but the drift still filled the air, confining the view to a radius of 
a quarter of a mile. Following a north-northeast course, in a half 
hour they found Innuit foot-prints, which the gale of the night previous 
had laid bare ; they seemed to have been made the day before. After 
following for two hours the tracks on this course, the party retraced 
their steps to the point at which they had first seen the foot-prints, and 
on advancing in the opposite direction, the dogs soon scented the igloos 
and flew ahead with so rapid and keen a jump as to trip up Hall and 
Pa-pa, entangling one of Hall's feet and dragging him along till the 
company with their whole force stopped the coursers. Ten minutes 
later they arrived near the igloos, and "Jerry" was cautiously sent for- 
ward, but soon reappeared with the signal to come on. After a halt of 
twenty minutes in the gale and drift outside, old Timg-niih and wife 
and old Koh-hig appeared armed with long knives, but greeting the 
new-comers with a welcome. These men had remained at these 
igloos, while three families had located themselves a short distance 
northward, the men belonging to them being absent at this time on a 
musk-ox hunt to the westward. 

On Hall's entering the huts, with "Jerry'' and Pa-pa for interpre- 
ters, he began at once his usual inquiries about the Franklin Expedition. 
Koh-hig, like his brother, old Kok-lee-arng-niin the chief met by Hall 
in 1866, was sociable, jolly, and apparently kind-hearted. He was a 
dwarfish creature. In Tung-nuk^s igloo was found a gallon stone jug of 
a light pinkish hue weighing about 5 pounds, the handle broken. It was 



392 



More Franklin Belies, 



[April, 1S69. « 



without mark or stamp, but was said to have come from King William's 
Land. Hall also found a copper kood-lin (lamp), 2 feet 6 inches long and 1 
foot wide, and about 5 pounds in weight; the end of a sword 4 inches in 

length; a snow-shovel 3 
feet long, made of pine or 
spruce, evidently painted 
at first lead color, and 
over this a coat of white 
except that the lower face 
was of fresh wood color, 
and a piece on the left 
side was light green. This 
last article the Innuits said 
they got out of a ship's 
beam or plank at Ki- 
ki-tuk — King William's 
Land. On asking Tung- 
nuk about this snow- 
shovel, he said it came 
from a large ou-mi-en (ship). Was it there now! No; it had sunk. 
Did the ice break it? No; the Innuits, in getting wood (timber or 
beams) out of it, made a hole in the ship, and soon after, it sunk. The 
snow-shovel was made of material very much thicker than it is now. 
Timg-nuk had never been to Ki-ki-tuk (King William's Island), but 
knew a great deal about what had taken place therefrom his acquaint- 
ances who had been all over the island. The sword-point mentioned 
above was immediately bartered for. 

Tung-nuk told Hall that when the remains of the white men were 




INNUIT SXOW-SHOVEL. 



April, 1869.] Sufferings of the King William Natives. 393 

discovered by Innuits on King William's Land, arms, legs, &c., were 
found cut off to be eaten, and the cut of the bone had always showed 
this to have been done by a saw. Koh-big said that all of the white 
men except two who were a long time ago at Ki-ki-tuk had perished. 
One of the two was Ag-loo-ka (Crozier), and both of these had certainly 
been seen by some of his (Koh-hig^s) friends. This last information 
made Hall greatly regret the absence of two of these, Too-shoo-art- 
thar-iu and In-nook-poo-zliee-jooh. The foniier of these, who was said 
to have taken some care of Crozier and his men when nearly starving, 
was now in King William's Land. The latter, who had been all over 
Ki-ki-tuk, and knew a great deal about the lost expedition, was, when 
last heard from, at the estuary of the Great Fish River, and was 
very ill. 

The natives of this bay and of Neitchille had lost nearly all their 
dogs the previous winter by the same Arctic disease which had swept 
off those of Repulse Bay and Ig-loo-lik. The people were in an 
almost starving condition, evident signs of suffering appearing within 
and without the igloos. Nothing like food was found but a few seal- 
bones with a trifle of rotten meat on them. There was no fire in the 
huts, and Hall's own company barely made out to gather a little of 
the fire-shrub from under the snow to aid in making their drinking- 
water. 

Old Kob-big told Hall, on taking leave of him, that it would take 
from six to eight days to cross the land to the western sea; that King 
William's Land could be seen from the land on the east side of the 
strait ; and that the island was low, and there were many Innuits on 
its eastern side. He said it was well that there was a w^iite man with 



394 Simpson^ s Lake. [Jt^ru, iseo. 

these Repulse Bay natives, for it would save their lives before and 
after reaching the island. 

Hall's men were now plainly alarmed. Some unpleasant demon- 
strations, shown by Tung-nuk himself, had much to do with this, as it was 
known that he had lost a relative and "must kill somebody to make 
matters all right between him and his Grod." It had been said, too, 
that many Pelly Bay and King William natives had recently died ; — 
Superstition might put the cause of this on any one of Hall's party. 
His men were afraid either to go on or remain. But their fears were 
quieted and they continued their journey, though the provisions they 
thought would now run short, and a hunt for musk-ox cattle again 
wearied them without success. It was well that the sledges had been 
so heavily loaded on starting out on this journey, for Hall could still 
feed his party and give some food to these suffering natives, among 
whom was his old friend See-pung-er of 1867. 

On the 18th of the month he determined by astronomical observa- 
tions that his encampment (the twentieth) was on Simpson's Lake, lat. 
68° 30' 22" N., long. 91° 31' W. Ou-e-la, who had been out on a 
two days' hunt for musk-cattle, came in at 4 a. m. quite weary, but 
successful. On discovering a bull browsing on Ellice Mountain, he 
had succeeded in getting within range, shattered the bones of one of 
the animal's fore legs, and, after firing into him all the balls which 
he had, shot his extra new rammer into the paunch: all these shots 
having only wounded the bull, so that Ou-e-la could but drive him 
several miles to the sledge-tracks and leave him there. "Jack" and 
Joe started off with sledge and dogs for the prize, returning in two hours 
with the whole ox, and also a small part of a deer, which Pa-pa had 
shot. The bull had tried to hobble off, but the dogs soon brought him 



April, 1869.J A Hunt for Musk-Cattle. 395 

to bay, nearly tearing off his skin; a hunter's knife then ended the 
fray. At night he was dragged within a large circular wall and skinned 
and dissected, when a goodly proportion of the meat, fat, brains, nose, 
and paunch were quickly devoured. Only the women failed in shar- 
ing the feast; forbidden because the meat was not cooked. There being 
no spare oil for fuel for cooking, they were fed on pemmican, which 
Too-koo-li-too told Hall she disliked as much as he had disrelished 
wolves' meat on his journey to Ig-loo-lik. 

The Innuits now asked a rest from the journey to hunt more 
musk-cattle, as the animals would soon scatter. To keep the men in 
good humor, Ou-e-Ia and Pa-pa were allowed to go off on the hunt, 
while Hall pushed forward to Grinnell Lake, on which he encamped 
on the 22d. The two men met with some success, but Hall remarks 
that, as usual, "the greater part of what is killed goes down the 
paunches of these Innuits, although, before getting leave to hunt, the 
story always is that they want to get meat for the dogs. As for "Jack," 
he is a regular hog ; he eats far more than any two others, and feeds 
his own dog on the choicest pieces, without a shadow of feeling for 
others." Hall gave him full swing, so long as he kept his hands off 
the sledge provisions; these he rigidly rationed out, although he was 
thus prevented at times even from leaving the sleds, lest some of the 
party would stuff' themselves from the stores. 

On the 27th, he crossed a branch of Murchison River, and from 
this point made rapid progress over a level and hard field of snow, yet 
his company were again disheartened, thinking that if he went on fur- 
ther, they and the dogs would all starve before they could get back. 
But Ou-c-la soon found the tracks of a sledge which had evidently 
crossed Richards' Bay and returned. Despair was then exchanged for 



396 New Igloos. [Apru, i869. 

bright and joyful faces. The last part of the day's journey being over 
an unbroken old floe with many hillocks, and the dogs being very 
weary, the twenty-fifth encampment was made among the hummocks. 

The next morning, to Hall's great grief, all at once his pocket chro- 
nometer utterly refused to go. Of this he said : " Few can imagine how 
strange I feel at the loss of my chronometer ; its constant ' tick-tick ' 
at my right ear I thought anything but music, but now I feel lost." 
His compass was very sluggish as they approached the Magnetic Pole : 
he allowed 80° for variation. During the day Shepherd Bay and 
Point Dryden came in sight across an extensive sea of hummocky 
ice. His highest expectations now were to find the natives whose 
sledge tracks from King William's Land had been seen. It was nec- 
essary, however, to tell his party that if he did not promptly succeed, 
he would let them stop all work and go to sealing, on which they went 
right to work making seal-harpoons. They were troubled about the 
dogs, which had become so ravenous as to gnaw the sledge-bars and 
destroy the moss-icing immediately on its being put on the run- 
ners, this kind of sled having been now fully proven to be superior 
to all others. 

On the 30th, an igloo was seen to the southward with its wall-shel- 
ter built to protect the sealers ; on visiting this, it was plain that it 
had been lately occupied, for fresh tracks of men and dogs were all 
around. Ou-e-la and "Jerry " were then quickly sent southward to find 
Innuits ; and at the end of a couple of hours, to Hall's great delight, 
signs were recognized from the two men that many inhabited igloos 
were seen. Pa-pa now became more frightened than ever, and, on 
conferring with the others. Hall agreed to stop behind the line of 
pressed-up ice, which they thought would be an admirable breastwork 



May, 18«9.J 



Intervieiv with In-naok-poo-zliee-jook. 



397 



if fighting- were to be done, for now a village was seen and a number 
of men with dogs sealing out on the ice. 

The next morning the party started out, fully prepared to meet 
friends or enemies. Each of the men had at first something to say like 
a prayer that those whom he met would be friends; in which Hall joined, 
praying also, as he says, that the interview might lead to much news 
of Franklin's lost companions, and perhaps "to the recovery of some 
souls and of the records." Within 150 fathoms of the igloos a halt was 
made, Hall, Pa-pa, and Joe staying by the sledges, while Ou-e-la, Jack 
{Nu-her-zhoo), and "Jeny " advanced a little way, with their long, sharp 
knives in hand. But the Innuits came out of their igloos and inter- 
mingled with the new-comers, on which Hall hastened forward and met 
the man whom he most desired to see — In-nook-poo-zliee-jooh 

The first question asked of 
this man was, '^Nou-tima Ag- 
loo-kar (Where is Crozier ?) 
And the first thing shown to 
Hall was a large silver spoon, 
with an eel's head crest (Frank- 
lin's; see Preliminary Chap- 
ter), that came from a large 
island where many white men 
died. An encampment was im- ivoky knives, kokk, anu spoons of innuit make. 
mediately made with the chief's people, who helped to put up igloos, 
in which they used knives which had belonged to Franklin's Expedi- 
tion ; they had one from McClintock's. The names of the men were 
taken down in a book, which act pleased every one of them at the 
outset, and the day was spent in talks with them ; the interpreters, 




398 



The Native Map of King WiUiam^s Land. 



[may, 1869. 



Too-koo-li-too and Ebierbing, soon getting used to their idiom. In- 
nook-poo-zhee-jook^s hut was full of articles from the ships, for a num- 
ber of which Hall at once bartered. This native gave him a sketch 
of King William's Land and its vicinity The names given by him 
for the numbers on his sketch were as follows : 

SKETCH OF KING WILLIAM'S LAND AND THE ADJACENT COUN- 
TRY, BY THE INNUIT IN-NOOK-POOZHEE JOOK. 



Kee-wee-woo. [Where one of the 
ships, Erebus and Terror, sunJc at 
Oolv-joo-Uk.) 

Oot-koo-iisli-e-lik. 

Great Fish or Back Kiver. 

See-er-ark tn. 

Noo-oo-tee-roo. 

6. Olc-kee-jeer. 

7. Ok-kee-jik-too. 

8. Slioog-ee-look-too. 

9. Too-noo-nee. {Where In-nook-poo- 

zhe-joolc found the two boats.) 
10. Kee-u-na. {A small island where 
In-nooli-poo-zhe-joolc has seen tlie 
remains of five ichite men. The 
Innuits all believe that Too-loo-a 
{Sir John Boss) died and was buried 
here. (!) A meat-can unopened — that 
is, full of meat— found hi Too-looiCs 
grave. His remains wrapped in 
blankets, and his body unmutilated, 
while the four remainder icere — 



10. Keen na — Coutiuued. 

that is, li7nbs had been severed and 
fiesh taken off the bones of the four. 
This island, one of Todd's Islets, 
off the south shore of King Will- 
iavi's Land. No boat found or white 
men died on Ki-ki-tUk-jHa {Montreal 
Island). Boat and the remains of a 
great many whites found on a very 
small island by the west coast of 
the inlet of which Point Richardson 
is the East Cape; this small island 
halfway down the inlet, where it 
turns sharply to the westicard. 
This islet tcithout a name.) 

11. Og-buk. {Matheson''s Isle of Bae.) 

12. Shar-too. 

13. Koo-kar. 

14. Ook-sook-too. 

15. Igloo-le-archoo. 

16. Point Dryden. 



After remaining at this village until the 8th of May, Hall set 
out for King William's Land, to visit a spot where, as he had heard, 
five of Franklin's men were buried. He could expect to make but a 
flying trip, as his party were detxnmined to return to Repulse Bay 



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Ma)-, 1869. 



Hall Arrives at King William^s Land. 



399 



within the two weeks following-. Leaving strict charge with Ou-e-la 
as to rationing out provisions in case no seals were caught, he took 
with him only In-nook-poo-zhee-jook and Nu-ker-zlwo and wife ; the first 
named provingagood guide. "A plug ^^^ 
of tobacco was given to Jack to oil his 
mouth, as he had much talking to do 




LOWKR HALF OF DF.SK. 



to the dogs." The travel averaged two (Deposited at tl.e Sinitlisouian institution.) 

and a half miles per hour, and as night approached, the long-desired 
sight of the land and the Table-Top Hill on what was called Matheson 
Isle came in sight. Hall gave three cheers, 
jotting down on his note-book as he rode, 
" It is a glorious feeling I have, for I have 




PART OF DESK. 



been struggHng for this for ten years." ^^'^i'"''*'^' ttuutionlf'"'"'" '"" 
Coming to a group of four occupied igloos, he made his twenty-eighth 
encampment with them near Booth Point. In these igloos also there 




NEEDLE-CASE, KING WILLIAM'S LAND 



was quite a collection of Franklin relics, among which was a mahog- 
any writing-desk, 18 inches long and 10 wide, on which a bottom 
board had been put by the natives. It had been recently in use as 



400 The Five Graves on Todd's Island. [May, i869. 

a blubber-tray. Koo-nik, one of this party, gave Hall a silver spoon 
like the one of which a drawing is found in the Preliminary Chapter 
of this Narrative, and a second smaller mahogany box, with another 
spoon and many other articles, including pieces of copper with two 
stamps of a broad arrow, and a steel spear-head on which was 
stamped " THE SHIP." All these had been brought from one of 
Franklin's ships and from the shore on the south side of Ook-joo-lik 
(O'Reilly Island). Knives, needles, thimbles, beads, and rings were 
given in return 

Going on from these igloos on the 9 th, In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook still 
proved to be an admirable guide, leading Hall on a direct course to 
the eastern islet of Todd's Islands. The compass at first showed that 
the travel was south, but before long it showed it as northeast when 
headed in the same direction. The weather was very thick when the 
next to the last encampment was made about 10 a. m., and supper was 
served on delicious fresh salmon of Neitchille, cooked and hot. 

On the 1 1 th, Hall encamped on one of these islets — Todd's Island — 
and immediately searched for the graves of the five men of whom the 
natives had spoken as buried on it. Its northwest end was very low 
and flat, and almost everywhere deeply covered with snow. He found 
part of a human thigh-bone, which appeared to have been fractured 
not long before ; In-nook-poo-zhee-jook told him this was part of one of 
the five men But the prospect of finding the other remains was aban- 
doned on account of the snow. Poo-yet-ta, a native wdio had gone on 
with Hall from his last encampment to this island, now said that the 
remains were not buried when he first saw them, but were found lying 
down all close together, each fully dressed and unmutilated. In the 



May, 1869.) The Bewiains of one of Franklin^ s Men Found hy Hall. 40 1 

pockets of one of the men a jack-knife had been found, and alongside 
of the remains, cans with meat in tliem which was eaten by the 
Innuits. 

The next day Hall crossed over to the mainland to find, if possi- 
ble, the place where two more of Franklin's men were said to have 
been buried. Arriving near the mouth of Peffer River, the natives 
built for him a snow-wall to keep off the wind and driving snow, that 
he might take some sextant angles. But the sun appeared for a mo- 
ment only, and but once. 

Late in the afternoon two of his attendants, after much labor, gave 
him signs of success in digging through the snow for bodies, and on 
hastening up to them he found one unburied skeleton. Over these 
remains an American flag was raised half-mast, and a monument of 
stones built up near by to the height of five feet. A salute was also 
fired in honor of these remains as to those which Hall believed were 
the form of one "of the heroes who had solved the problem of the 
Northwest Passage." The gale above and the hardness and depth of the 
snow under foot debarred further search. (See the close of this chapter.) 

Returning from this examination of the coast of King William's 
Land, Hall made a second search on a point of the same southern 
shore, but farther eastward ; for, after close questioning the natives 
Poo-yet'ta, In-nook-poo-zJiee-jooh, and Tuk-pee-too a third native met with 
at his last encampment, he believed he might find the remains of still 
another of Franklin's men. After traveling about a half hour, the 
party halted on a long low spit, called by the natives Kung-e-ark-le- 
ar-u, on which the men last named "knew that a white man had been 
buried " This, however, was chiefly from the accounts which they 

had had from their people ; only one of these had ever seen the grave. 
S. Ex. 27 2fi 



402 A Monument Erected to the Dead. [May, «869. 

The spot was pointed out, but the snow covered all from view. A 
monument was erected, and its bearings from Kee-u-na carefully 
noted. 

Going back to the thirtieth encampment, and renewing his inqui- 
ries of Tuk-pee-too and his wife, U-vee-shuk, he was led by these two to 
a place on the southeastern end of the island, some twenty fathoms 
from the shore, where the wife had seen some of the skeleton bones of 
the five men who had died there. Of the identity of the place and of 
her having seen skeletons upon it she was very certain. Hall, there- 
fore, erected a third monument and fired a salute in memory of the 
dead there. 

The remains which have now been spoken of as found by Hall, 
or as honored by his "humble tributes" at the places of tlieir burial, 
were all which his opportimity possibly afforded him time to search 
for and honor. He felt confident, during his stay with these natives, 
that, from a number of conversations and close inquiries (using in 
these McClintock's, the Admiralty's, and Dr. Rae's charts for the 
identifications of the places named), ho could now account for proba- 
bly 79 of the 105 men of Crozier's party from the abandoned ships. 
Their remains had whitened at or near King William's Land, and had, 
in some cases at least, been grossly mutilated by dogs. The sub- 
stance of some conversations with the natives of this region which led 
him to make this estimate of the number of the perished who can bo 
accounted for is as follows : 

The journal of May 5 says : " This evening quite late (for it wns 
quite dark in our i//Ioo before the fire-lamps were coaxed ablaze), In- 
nook-poo-zhec-jooh, Tcc-ka-ta, Ow-iverk, and some other Innuits of the 
place are present. I will now try and see if I can approximate the 



May, 1S69.) The Numher of Men Found in the Second Boat. 403 

number of men in Sir John Franklin's Expedition that we now know 
from Innuit and other sources to have died shortly after Crozier {Ag- 
loo-ka) was seen by the four Innuits before referred to. In-nook-poo- 
zhee-jooh and the others agreed to make trial in giving the number, 
though they say it is impossible to be precise; they were ' very many.' 
He now gets his five men to hold out their fingers and thumbs to rep- 
resent the number of men found in that boat." 

Those represent ^„ 

There were two skulls in the boat the wlrite man (McClintock) had found 

before In-nooJc-poozhee-jooJc found it o 

And five he found outside ^ 

Not far from that boat he found another with three skulls in it and four out- 
side 

7 

On Todd's Island, buried ^ 

On south shore King Wilham's Land 2 

If the number within and without the big tent be called 30 

And we take into the account the large man with long teeth found aboard 
the shi2> 

And the foiu- men whose tracks were seen on the mainland near Wilmot and 
Crampton Bay 

We have — "- 

y^, . -.. 200 

JJeduct two m the boat first found by McGlintock 

Deduct half the number probably overstated in the boat, west of Point 

Richardson 

25 

27 

Reasonably accounted for ~T2 

The Innuits were quite sure that the boat found at the west of 
Point Richardson was the same one that Ag-gloo-ha's party had when 
they met the four Innuit families just above Point Ilerschel. 

The notes of the day previous are: 

Evening interview witli Elc-l-ee-pccre-a, a Noitchille Innuit, who, with his 
family, removed to this village to-day. After the newly arrived piirty had com- 
pleted their ujloos and got them to rights, I proceeded to make a call, takin- Jack- 



9, 



^■i^sr' 



404 The Natives who Visited Franldin^s Ship [May, ises. 

along with me. My ijarticular object was to see a glass bottle or jar, wliich 
In-nooJc-poo-zhee-jooJc had told me once belonged to Ag-loo-Jca's (Crozier's) company, 
and now jiossessed by one of the families that arrived to-day. Our first call was 
on the old man and his family. They had iiart of a hie 1^ inch wide and 2^ or 3 
inches long, round on one side and flat on the other; this was sharpened on one 
end for use as a cold chisel or an adae. ETc-lcee-pee-rea had lived at Ook-joo-UTc 
(O'Reilly Island), and had heard the natives there tell about the ship that came 
to their country. The ship had four boats hanging at the sides and another was 
above the quarter-deck. The ice about the ship one winter's make ; all a smooth 
floe. A plank was found extended from the ship's side down to the ice. 

Gathering into an igloo my interi^reters Joe and Jack with In-nooJc-poo-zhee- 
jooJc, and putting before the last-named native McClintock's chart, he readily 
pointed out the place where the Franklin shij) sank. It was \evy near O'Eeilly 
Island, a little eastward of the north end of said island, between it and Wilmot 
and Crampton Bay. A native of the island first saw the shiii when sealing; it 
was far o& seaward, beset in the ice. lie concluded to make his way to it, though 
at first he felt afraid; got aboard, but saw no one, although from every appear- 
ance somebody had been living there. At last he ventured to steal a knife, and 
made off' as fast as he coidd to his home; but on shoAving the Innuits what he 
had stolen the men of the place all started oft' to the ship. The party on getting 
aboard tried to find out if any one was there, and not seeing or hearing any one, 
began ransacking the ship. To get into the igloo (cabin), they knocked a hole 
through because it was locked. They found there a dead man, whose body was 
very large and heavy, his teeth very long. It took five men to lift this giant 
kob-lu-na. He was left where they found him. One place in the ship, where a 
great many things were found, was very dark; thej' had to find things there by 
feeling around. Guns were there and a great many very good buckets and boxe^. 
On my asking if they saw anything to eat on board, the rei)ly was there was 
meat and tood-noo in cans, the meat fat and like pemmican. The sails, rigging, 
and boats — everything about the ship — was in complete order. 

From time to time the Neitchilles went to get out of her whatever they could ; 
they made their plunder into piles on board, intending to sledge it to their igloos 
some time after; but on going again they found her sunk, except the top of the 
masts. They said they had made a hole in her bottom by getting out one of her 
timbers or planks. The ship was afterward much broken up by the ice, and then 
masts, timbers, boxes, casks, &c., drifted on shore. A little while after this fresh 
tracks were seen of four men and a dog on the land where the ship was. In-nooTc- 



May, i8«9.] The Tcfit and Boat Found by In-nooh-poo-zliee-jook. 405 

poo-zhee-jook, who had seen Eoss and his party on tliti Victory and Eae in 1854, 
knew these tracks to be kob-lu-nas^ ] the foot-inarks were lonji'. narrow in the mid- 
dle, and the prints lilie as if of the boots found in the two boats found on King 
William's Land. One man, from his running steps, was a v^eiy gieatr runner — very 
long steps. The natives tracked the men a long distance, and found where they 
had killed and eaten a young deer. 

Another native at this interview told nearly the same story of the ship and 
of the man found on board, adding that he was found d(;ad on the floor, his 
clothes all on; that the ship was covered all over with sails or tent stuff. The 
cabin was down below and not on deck. The time was about the middle of May 
or first of June. 

In-noolc-poo-zhee-joolc said that he had found a boat (a little way westward of 
the one found by Hobson), the planks, ribs, and all comjdete, and copper fastened. 
In the boat were a great many skeletons, the skulls with them. He gave me a 
douWe-bladed knife, with a white bone handle, very rnsty. It came from this 
boat. The boat had not been touched, and a great many papers and books and 
written stuff wen; in it. [These are all trash to the Inuuits; the winds and the 
weather had made destructive work with them. The Innnits would trample 
them under feet as if grass.] 

A tent was near this boat; it was on the top of some rising ground on a 
small sandy hill. The place, as pointed out on the chart, was near the bottom of 
Terror Bay, a little way northerly of the point adjacent to Fitz James Inlet. The 
tent was large, and made with a ridge-pole resting on a perpendicular j)ole at 
either end; small ropes extended from top of the tent at each end to the ground, 
where the rope-ends were fast to sticks driven into the ground. 

Three men, one of whom was Tee-kee-ta, first saw the tent. It had in it 
blankets and bedding, a great many skeleton bones and skulls, the tiesh all off; 
nothing except sinews attached to them; the appearance as though foxes and 
wolves had gnawed the flesh; some bones had been sawed with a saw; some 
skulls had holes in them. Besides the blankets, were tin cups, spoons, forks, 
knives, two double-barrel guns, pistols, lead balls, a great many powder-flasks, 
and both books and papers written upon. As these last were good for nothing 
for Innuits, the men threw them away, except one book, which Tee-ka-ta brought 
home and gave to the children ; after a while it got torn to pieces. 

On asking Tee-kee-ta whether Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) had a telescope 
about him when he visited one of the tents of the Innuits, he rephed : 



406 Ag-loo-kd!s {Crazier) Visit to the Innuits — 1848. [iway, is69. 

" The first time Ag-loo-ka came lie did not come inside ; next morning 
he entered one of the tents of the four famihes who were there en- 
camped by tlie west shore of King William's Land, a little way above 
Cape Herschel (as pointed out on the chart). His telescope was 
hung about his neck. Ag-loo-ka and his men had come along, the men 
dragging a large sledge laden with a boat and a smaller sledge with 
camp material and provision. Close by the Innuits they erected a 
tent ; some of the men slept in the boat, which was left on the sea-ice 
all the snow being off the land. On Ag-loo-ka' s first meeting with the 
Innuits he had a gun in his hand ; on seeing him lay it down, the In- 
nuits laid down their spears. Then Crozier walked up and said, " Tij- 
mof" ^'- 3Ian-ik-too-meef at the same time brushing his hand down 
their breasts and shaking hands, Koh-lii-na-wny. The time was late 
in the spring — July, Joe and Hannah said it must have been, for the 
sea-ice was nearly ready to break up; the sun was in sight all the time ; 
ducks, now-yers, &c., all in abundance in the pools and lakes. Tce- 
kee-ta saw Ag-loo-ka kill two geese, and his men were busy shooting. 
Ag-loo-ka tried very hard to talk to the Innuits, but did not say much 
to them. He had a little book as he sat in Ow-er's tent and wrote notes. 
The full meaning of what he said about the ice destroying the ship 
and his men dying was afterward understood. He ate a piece of seal 
raw, about as big as the fore and next fingers to the first joint. He 
wore no sword. He then said he was going to Iwillik (Repulse Bay), 
making motions with his hands in that direction. One of his men was 
very fat, the others all poor ; one man with one of his upper teeth 
gone, and one with marks on the saddle of his nose, and one man 
squinted, or cross-eyed. The Innuits left them although supposing 
that they were abandoning starved men. 



Mar, IS69.1 Hall Compelled to Return. 407 

Hall reproved these men sharply for leaving Crozier. Does it 
not, however, seem probable that these few natives feared that Crozier's 
large party would starve them out. 

The final Return Journey was now begun. The natives who had 
gone over with him to the islands were as anxious to get back imme- 
diately to their people as had been Ou-e-la, and even his own two 
fiiends, Ebierbing and Too-koo-li-too, to be safe at Repulse Bay. 
Hall, therefore, was forced to give up a journey which he had con- 
templated at least as far as Terror Bay, on the west side of King 
William's Land. It was the place where " the tent was once found, 
the floor of which was completely covered with the remains of white 
men." But it was now urged upon him that it would be time spent in 
vaiij even to cross over to Point Richardson to seek the place of the 
boat found by the Innuits soon after Ag-loo-ka's party were seen just 
above Cape Herschel, for the land there was so low and so deeply 
covered with snow it would be impossible to tell sea from land ; 
Nu-her-zJwo (Jack) said that unless they started back to Repulse 
Bay within four days, the snow and ice would be off the sea of 
Ak-koo-lee and they would have very great trouble. 

On the 16th, Hall had returned to his twenty-seventh encampment 
of the outward journey, where he had left nearly all the party who had 
come out with him from Repulse Bay. All the way back he was regret- 
ting that he could not search for a cairn of which his guide had been 
talking at his side on the sledge. He was sorry on his arrival to find 
that the natives with whom he had first met at this encampment were 
absent sealing ; Too-koo-li-too, however, had rejoiced at their going, as 
they had become on Hall's departure bold and threatening. A family of 



408 



elics at Inglis Bay. 



Beli 



[mar, 1869. 




four, which was to include In-nook-poo-^hee-jook, had settled a bargain 
with Eek-clioo-ar-cJioo (Jerry) For a return to Repulse Bay. Hall's 
provision stores had been used, as onl}' four seals were caught ; but 
enough reir:niii((l for a hopeful supply until on the homeward jour- 
ney tlio liuius wouhl be resumed. The loads on tlie sleds would 

be increased by the 
family which would 
go, and additionally 
by the relics Hall 
would take, to which 

OO KOO-SUK— INNUIT STONE POT. hc foUud WOUld bC 

added such articles as a stone lamp and stone pots and kettles, bar- 
gained for by each of the women to take home. He Avonders whether 
some one would not have purchased a dead elephant to take along if 
it had been the country of elephants. 

One of the native women of the igloo village had given birth to a 
large, healthy babe, which the mother, on finding that it was not a 
male, had destroyed by throwing it away. 

Still holding back his men. Hall now went off with the same two 
compatiions that had gone over to Todd's Island, determined to learn 
more of the dead men, and especially to find the natives who last saw 
Crozier and his party. Arriving at the place on Inglis Bay where, 
on his journey out, he had made a deposit, he again found relics in 
abundance, among which were a piece of a mast 14 feet in length, and 
oak and })ine blocks, besides a part of a boat; these he placed upon 
the sledge. In long talks with the natives he learned interesting news 
of their last meeting with Ag-loo-Jca, the substance of which, further 
noted in full in his little journals, will bo found at the close of this 



mar, 1869.] 



Writing on the Sled. 



409 



chapter, where his own summing up of the results of this journey is 
quoted. The flying trips made for these last-named talks cost him more 
than fifty miles of travel. When the sun on the 18th was 14° 30' 
high he wrote once more in his igloo: "I find on my return all the 
rest still in bed ; we now have coffee, pemmican, and bread ; come, 
balmy sleep ! " 

On the 20th, the Return from this point to Repulse Bay began. The 
party now consisted of fifteen persons and the team of eighteen dogs, 
Ou-e-la's having come back to them after a stray, on which it had eaten 
the murdered babe ; for this act it was not permitted by the natives for 
some days to do any work. In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook's tested ability as 




S*^^P» 



um^ 








J 



&» 



A PAGE FKOM ONE OF THE FIFTY-EIGIIT NOTE-BOOKS OF THIS JOUKNKY ;— WRITTEN ON THE SLED. 



410 



Hall Again Sick. 



[June, 1869. 



guide determined Hall to keep no special account of courses, but to 
use carefully the opportunity of getting- from him and his driver, Nu- 
Jcer-zJioo all further information possible as they rode along. The page 
here reproduced from the note-book of the day shows how Hall set 
down, even when on the rough sleds, what he thus industriously 
elicited from his Innuit acquaintances. The last two lines of the page 
are an indication of frequent experiences. 



The sled, though heavily laden, was so well iced by In-noo-poo- 
zhee-jook that for some distance it ran easily over the soft snow. The 
thermometer read 28°. By the 28th of the month, the nineteenth en- 
campment of the outward journey was again visited, and its cache, 
made April 17, was opened; Brevoort sled, left at this point, was now 
also taken up. The Pelly Bay natives were found to be thriving on 
their recent hunts A day's talk was again held with them on the sub- 
ject always uppermost in Hall's mind. ^ 
June 3, Hall rested near Dr. Rae's McTavisli Hill, the party hav- 
ing had the comfort of feasting again on 
fresh deer-meat in place of their long-used 
pemmican, and the discomforts of sleep- 
ing in a roofless hut, and of seeing when 
they arose, the heavens thick and gloomy, 
the snow falling, and a wolf prowling 
near them. Hall was beginning to pass 
through a severe sickness of some days, 
which made him abandon a purpose to 
direct his course to Point Sieveright, fur- 
ther to the north, on the sea of Ak-koo-lee, 




iiKi.r AM> TAnu';T-(H)yKi{s kou tiii 

.NOTICS. 



June, i!-69.] Beturn to Cape Weynton. 411 

to inspect a monument of which Ou-e-la had more than once spoken 
as having been built by white men since Dr. Rae's visit of 1854. Of 
his sudden and serious attack, he afterward wrote : "It seems all as 
a dream. I found myself on a deer-skin within the roofless circle 
snow-wall of our Jcom-mong, surrounded by my attentive men, all wear- 
ing an anxious look, until a large dose of the essence of peppermint 
restored me at a time when I had thought the very life was fast 
ebbing." This, it may be added, was not his only experience on 
this expedition of a sudden and unaccountable illness : premonitions 
of the sudden and final attack of 1871. 

Just before reaching Cape Weynton, Pa-pa shot a "mother-deer," 
which fled, leaving the fawn to have its life "footed out"; the Innuit 
pressing down one foot heavily over the young heart. At the Cape, a 
cache of presents was left for See-pung-er, in return for his help in lay- 
ing up blubber and meat during the winter of 1 867-68 ; and then 
Hall bade a final farewell to the point which now he had three times 
visited. 

From this date the chief remaining items of interest which are 
noted in the jottings on this sledge travel through the warm month of 
June are to be found in the repeated and successful hunts of the 
musk-ox. From the 6th until the 13th of the month slow advances 
were made, for it was but hunt after hunt. As many as fifty musk- 
cattle were at one time seen in bands on the hill-sides. In one 
battle twenty-one were slain, IJall killing three with two balls, which 
were found lodged in the third, and Hannah herself killing four young 
ones. Hall wrote : " My work has been severe and protracted, and I 
need relaxation : therefore, I go in for the hunt." Nor could he have 
restrained his Eskimo party, if he had desired it, for the cry of "Oo- 



412 



Provisions Abundant. 



[June, 1869. 




ming-mung''^ always unfitted tliem for anything else than the chase, 

even when they knew it would not be necessary. 

Game was thrown right in their path. 
The country all the way from King William's 
Land was full of it ; and as Hall wrote 
these words, and remembered that much 
small game — as geese, partridges, and mar- 
mots — had also been seen before reaching- 

HORNS OF A MUSK-OX SHOT BY HALL, ^ 

JUNE 8, 1869. Qape Weynton, he added : "0, that I could 

have met Crozier and liis party twenty-one years ago with the facili 
ties I have had on this journey. I am sure I could have saved the 

whole company. I say it with 
no egotistical feeling, but with a 
confidence of what I know of 
the country." The proof of 
what he thus says of his own 
" facilities " — i. e., the friendli- 
ness* and aid of the natives as 
interpreters, guides, and hunt- 
ers — was afterward found in the 
simiming up of the prizes se- 
cured on this trip ; for when he 
arrived at his old encampment 
on Repulse Bay, the footings 




LADLE MADE FROM THE HORN OF A MUSK-OX BY 
NICITCHILLE NATIVES. 

(Presented to Hall as to an aii-ge-ko by an Innuit 
mother as pay for ciuiiig her sick child.) 



"But, as has been already noted, he had, some time before this date, discovered from the 
confession of the Neitcliille men that their friendliness to Crozier had soon exhausted itself. They 
had let him and his i)arly starve. Hall had sharply rebuked their selfishness, and his last hope of 
Crozier's living any length of lime after his starting from the ships had died oiit. But it must be 
remembered that Iho few Innuits who found Crozier may have been alarmed lest the number of 
the white men would exhaust their own scanty supplies. Self-preservation may have caused 
their slipping off in the night. 




June, 1869.] Tlw MusTi-Ox Hunt. 413 

read: "Musk-cattle killed, 79; deer, 18." The skins of the musk- 
cattle weighed 873 pounds. The weights in gross of the two sledges 
from the date of May 28, including the weight of provisions, heavy 
boxes of Franklin relics, the musk-ox meat 
and skins, and the passengers who rode, 
had sometimes exceeded 300 pounds for 
each dog of the team. 

The striking points of the most suc- 
cessful of the musk-ox hunts are illustra- 
tive of Innuit customs and of the habits of 

HORNS OF A D1>R SHOT BY HALL, 

the ox when attacked. The fight was at ise^ 

the place marked on the map of this chapter as Encampment No. 
44, where two bands were successively seen. When the first of these 
was surrounded, as soon as they perceived that the dogs were slipped, 
tliey formed into their usual one circle of defense, "a musk-bull 
battery of nine solid battering heads and twice the number of sharp- 
ened horns." The dogs were quickly at these heads, barking and 
jumping back and forward, while the hunters made no haste to ad- 
vance, for they knew that the bulls would stand their ground all day 
if no other enemies came. 

"After a few minutes' watch of the movements of dog versus bull 
and bull versus dog," the old hunter, In-nook-jwo-zhee-jooL went forward 
to within twelve feet of a large bull, can-ying a lance which had a line 
attached by which he could draw it back; but at liis second throw, 
the wounded and infuriated bull made a fearful forward plunge, from 
-the effects of which the hunter and his companions escaped only by a 
ver}' timely jump to the left The bull was soon again brouo-ht to 
bay. Ou-e-la then pulled trigger on another "noble bull of the circle 



414 



The Musk- Ox Hunt. 



[June, 1869. 



of defense, and Pa-pa sliot the one whicli had been hinced, when at 
the noise of these guns the whole circle bolted away except two, who 
stood their ground side by side long after the whole fight was ended, 




and even when the dogs were driven away from iheni and stones had 
been thrown. Instead of moving, each of these two kept throwing 
his massive head down between his fore feet, rubbing the tip of each 



Jane, 1869.] Letter to Mr. Orinnell. 415 

horn against the fore leg as one would rub a razor on a strop. This 
is the animal's habit unless he finds himself, when attacked, near some 
large stone which he may use for the same purpose of sharpening his 
horns. The work of death upon the others of this band and upon the 
second band, was completed by the rest of Hall's men with guns, 
spears, and the bow. 

On the 20th of June, 1869, this three months' journey was ended 
by Hall's arrival at his old quarters. After a friendly talk with the 
natives of the bay on whose shores he and his party were again 
safely quartered, he promptly wrote out for his friend Mr. Grinnell a 
letter which might reach the United States before he himself could 
return. It so fully states the facts of this weary but most important 
of his journeys, that its proper place seems to be at this point of the 

history. 

Letter from Capt. C. F. Hall to Mr. Henry Grinnell. 

Eepulse Bay, Jime 20, 18G9. 

Dear Sir: This day I have returned from a sledge joiu-ney of ninety days 
to and from King William's Land. It was my purpose (and every preparation was 
made) to make this journey last season; but my attention then having been called 
to Mellville Peninsula, in the vicinity of Fury and Hecla Straits, where native 
report had it that white men had been seen, I directed my expedition there by 
way Am-i-toke, the Oo-glit Isles, and Ig-loo-lik, with the ardent hoi)e and expecta- 
tion of rescuing alive some of Sir John Franklin's last companions. 

The result of my sledge journey to King William's Laud may be summed up 
thus : None of Sir John Franklin's companions ever reached or died on Montreal 
Island. It was late in July, 1848, that Crozier and his party of about forty or 
forty-five passed down the west coast of King William's Land in the vicinity of 
Cape Hcrschel. The party was dragging two sledges on the sea-ice, which was 
nearly in its last stage of dissolution : one a large sledge laden with an awning- 
covered boat, and the other a small one Inden with provisions and camp mate- 
rial. Just before Crozier and party arrived at Cape Ilerschcl, they were met 
by four families of natives, aud both parties went into camp near each other. 



416 Results of tJiis Journeij [jnue, i869. 

Two Eskimo men, who were of tlie native party, gave me much sad but deeply 
interesting, information. Some of it stirred my heart with sadness, intermin- 
gled with rage, for it was a confession that they, with their companions, did 
secretly and hastily abandon Crozier and his party to suffer and die for need 
of fresh proAisions, when in truth it was in the power of the natives to save 
every man alive. 

The next trace of Crozier and his party is to be found in the skeleton which 
McClintock discovere<l a little below, to the southward and eastward of Cape 
Herschel ; this was never found by the natives. The next trace is a camping- 
place on the sea-shore of King "William's Land, about three miles eastward of 
Pfefier Eiver, where two men died and received Christian (?) builal. At this 
l^lace fish- bones were found by the natives, which showed them that Crozier and 
his party had caught while there a species of fish excellent for, food, with which 
the sea there abounds. The next trace of this party occurs about five or six 
miles eastward, on a long, low point of King William's Land, where one man 
died and was buried. Then, about south-southeast two and a half miles further, 
the next trace occurs on Todd's Islet, where the remains of five men lie. The 
next certain trace of this party is on the west side of the islet, west of Point 
Eichardson, on some low land that is an island or part of the main land, as the 
tide may be. Here the awning-covered boat and the remains of about thirty or 
thirty-five of Crozier's party were found by the native Poo-yet-ta, of whom Sir 
John Eoss has given a description in the account of his voyage in the Victory in 
1829-'34. 

In the spring of 1849, a large tent was found by the natives whom I 
saw, the floor of which was completely covered with the remains of white men. 
Close by were two graves. This tent was a little way inland from the head of 
Terror Bay. In the spring of 1801, when the snow was nearly all gone, an Eskimo 
"party, conducted by a native well known throughout the northern regions, found 
two boats, with many skeletons in and about them. One of these boats had been 
previously found by McClintock ; the other was found lying from a quarter to a 
half mile distant, and must have been conii)letely entombed in snow at the time 
McClintock's parties were there, or they most assuredly would have seen it. In 
and about this boat, beside the skeletons alluded to, were found many relics, most 
of them similar in character to those McClintock has enumerated as having been 
found in the boat he discovered. 

I tried hard to accomplish far more than I did, but not one of the company 
would on any account whatever consent to remain with me in that country and 



.iiiii«>. IS69.1 The Unhnried Bead 417 

make a summer search over that island, which, from information I had gained 
from the natives, I had reason to suppose wouhl be rewarded by the discovery of 
the whole of the manuscript records that had been accumulated in that great 
expedition, and had been deposited in a vault a little way inland or eastward of 
Cape Victory. Knowing as I now do the character of the Eskimos in that part of 
the country in which King William's Land is situated, I cannot wonder at nor 
blame the Eepulse Bay natives for their refusal to remain there, as 1 desired. It 
is quite i)robable that, had we remained there as I wished, no one of us would 
ever have got out of the country alive. How could we expect, if we got into 
straitened circumstances, that we would receive better treatment from the 
Eskimos of that country than the 105 souls who were under the command of the 
heroic Crozier some time after landing on King William's Land? Cotild I and 
my party with reasonable safety have remained to make a summer search on King 
William's Laud, it is not only probable that we should have recov^ered the logs 
and journals of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, but have gathered up and en- 
tombed the remains of nearly 100 of his comjianions ; for they lie about the places 
where the three boats have even found and at the large camping-place at the 
head of Terror Bay and the three other places that I have already mentioned. 
In the cove, west side of Point Eichardson, however, nature herself has opened 
her bosom and given sepulture to the bones of the immortal heroes who died 
there. Wherever the Eskimos have found the graves of Franklin's companions, 
they have dug them open and robbed the dead, leaving them exposed to the rav- 
ages of wild beasts. On Todd's Island, the remains of five men were not buried; 
but, after the savages had robbed them of every article that could be turned to 
account for their use, theii' dogs were allowed to finish the disgusting work. 
The native who conducted my native party in its search over King William's 
Land is the same individual who gave Dr. Eae the first information about white 
men having died to the westward of where he (Dr. Eae) then was (Pelly Bay) in 
the spring of 1854. His name is In-nookpoo-zhe-joolc, and he is a native of jSTeit- 
chille, a very great traveler and very intelligent. He is, in fact, a walking his- 
tory of the fate of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This native I met when 
within one day's sledge journey of King William's Laud — oft' Point Dryden ; and, 
after stopping a few days among his people, he accompanied me to the places 
I visited on and about Iviug William's Land. 

I could have readily gathered great quantities — a very gi-eat variety — of 
Eelics of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, for they are now possessed by natives 
all over the Arctic Eegions that I visited or heard of— from Pond's Bay to Macken- 

S. Ex. 27 27 



418 Franklin Belies Brought from King Williain^s Land. [Juue, 1869. 

zie Eiver. As it was, I liad to be satisfied witli taking upon our sledges about 
125 pounds total weight of relics from natives about King William's Land. Some 
of these I will enumerate : 

1. A portion of one side (several planks and ribs fast together) of a boat, 
clinker-built and copper-fastened. This part of a boat is of the one found near 
the boat found by McClintock's party. 2. A small oak sledge-runner, reduced 
from the sledge on which the boat rested. 3. Part of the mast of the Northwest 
Passage shij). 4. Chronometer-box, with its number, name of the maker, and the 
Queen's broad arrow engraved upon it. 5. Two long heavy sheets of copper, 
three and four inches wide, with countersunk holes for screw-nails. On these 
sheets, as well as on most everything else that came from the Northwest Pas- 
sage ship, are numerous stamps of the Queen's broad arrow. 6. Mahogany writ- 
ing-desk, elaborately finished and bound in brass. 7. Manj' pieces of silver-plate, 
forks, and sjioons, bearing crests and initials of the owners. 8. Parts of watches. 
9. Knives and very many other things which you, Mr. Grinnell, and others in- 
terested in the fate of the Franklin Expedition will take a sad interest in inspect- 
ing on their arrival in the States. One entire skeleton I have brought to the 
United States.* 

The same year that the Erebus and Terror roere abandoned one of them consum- 
mated the Great Korthicest Passage^ having fire men aboard. The evidence of the 
exact number is circumstantial. Everything about this Northwest Passage ship 
was in complete order. It was found by the Ook-joo-lik natives near O'Reilly 
Island, lat. 68° 30' N., long. 09° W., early in the spring of 1849, frozen in the midst 
of a floe of only one winter's formation. 

Unvi^illing to leave any means untried which might add to what 

information he had gained on King WilHam's Land, at Todd's Isles, 

and on the return journey, Hall kept up numerous inquiries of In- 

nook-poo-zJiee-jook, even after the date of this letter to Mr. Grinnell. 

An example of his conversations now held, will show his manner of 

questioning, in order to elicit hopefully the truth from this native of 

whose accuracy he sometimes speaks distrustfully. In Book B, for- 



* After much ]iosit.ancy as tliouffli he niijiht have done -nroiig in this, some time after his 
return, Hall placed the carefully-iireserved remains in the charge of Mr. Brcvoort, of Brooklyn, 
who transferred them to Admiral Iiiglcfield, 11. N., to ho forwarded to England. Suhseriuently 
(by the plug of a tooth) the skehiton was identified as the remains of Lieutenant Vcscoutc, of 
the Erebus. (Sec Geographical Magazine, liOndon, for April, 1878.) 



July, 1869.] Conversation with In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook. 419 

warded after his return (as has been noted on page 339), for Lady- 
Franklin's perusal, he had written: 

Friday, July 2, 1869. 

Interview trith In-nooh-poozhee-jook ; Hannah my interpreter. Time, about 
noon. — My first words are tliat I am about to leave this country for the Uuited 
States of America; I wish him to tell me the particulars he can think of relative 
to the white men who died, many years ago, at Ki-ki-tnk, and of the boats he 
found on that island ; of the ship he has also told me about before, that came 
down to Ook-joo-lik, &c. I also add that I wish him to be very particular to tell 
me just what he remembers; to tell the truth and the truth only. 

Question. Who were with you when you found tliose two boats ? 

Answer. His brother's son Oo-ar-zhoo, now dead; Ool-jrik, EJc-kepe-re-a, and 
his own son, Neer-kood-loo. The party of men numbered five, and their families 
were with them. They were making a tour on purpose to search after such 
things as they could find that belonged to the white men that had died on King 
William's Land. 

Question. What particular time of the year was it? 

Answer. Thinks the time of the year about when we returned to this baj- 
encampment, — June 20. Water had begun to make on the ice, and water is a 
Uttle later making there than here. Snow and ice were inside the boats, and all 
around.* 

Question. Did the boats look as if anybody had visited them within two or 
three years ? 

Answer. Somebody had been to one of them, for everything was gone out 
of it. 

Question. What did you find in the other boat — the one that the white men 
(McClintock's party) from Ik-ke-hi-suk (Bellot Strait) did not find ! 

Answer. Six paddles ; many table-knives, white handles ; one watch ; a spy- 
glass that his son has, a little longer than Joe's — something like my compass, but 
no glass about it; tobacco that had been wet and was in flakes or thin pieces; 
very many tin dishes; one whole skeleton with clothes on, — the flesh all on, but 
dried; many skeleton bones; three skulls. Alongside of the boat a big pile of 

*In a previous conversatiou Ihe native had said that he had found the boats in 1861. 
"After seeing Dr. Mac on his outward journey (1854), he came down to Iwillik and staid there 
three winters; then he spent, at Pelly Bay two winters; then he spent on Neitchille one winter; 
and, the following .spring, went to King William's Land." Whieli Hall reckoned up thus : Kepulse 
Bay, three winters, or 18o4-'.j5, l855-'r)6, and lH5(5-"57 ; Pelly Bay, two winters, or 1857-'5S and 
1858-'59; Neitchille, one winter, 1859-'60 ; King William's Laud, one winter, 1860-'61. Then in 
the spring of 18, 51 found the boats. 



420 The Second Tent and the Boat. [juiy, iseo. 

skeleton bones that had been broken uj> for the marrow in them; they were near 
a fire-place; skulls among these. The number of them ama-sn-ad-loo (a great 
many) — cannot tell how many. It is certain that some of the men lived on human 
flesh, for alongside of the boat were some large boots with cooked human flesh 
in them. 

[Hannah here told Hall that from all which had been said by In-noolcpoo- 
zhee-joolc and the other Innuits met with at tbe twenty-seventh encampment of 
their late journey, she was satisfied that after Orozier's party left the place where 
the two boats were found and the large tent at or near the head of Terror Bay, 
the starving seamen who remained at or about the boats no longer restrained 
themselves from satisfying their hunger. The Innuits do not believe that human 
flesh was used by Crozier or by any one about him.] 

Hall adds in regard to the boat : The sledge-runner I have (deposited after 
his return at the Smithsonian) is part of the sledge on which was this boat which 
the white man did not find. 

Question. Did you see any papers with marks on, the same as I am now 
making ? 

Answer. No; but saw a gi-eat many like the paper of the book by my 
(Hall's) side (McOlintock's Voyage of the Fox). 

Question. What was the size of the tent ! 

Answer. Never saw the tent itself, but only the tenting-place ; judging from 
the appearances, the tent nnist have been as long as to the fm^ther end of 
Ar-mouh tent from where he was sitting. (Hall measured this distance to be 22 
feet.) The tent was on some rising ground, fro ir-j>K^' (sandy), overlooking the sea, 
about as far off' as an islet pointed out — half a mile. Three graves were near the 
tenting-i)lace. 

On showing In-nook-poozhee-jooh the large Admiralty chart, he pointed out 
the place of the tent on Terror Bay, and said that when his party visited the 
tenting-place thej' i'ollowed the coast around to the northward and westward 
until they arrived at the extreme west point, and then turned to the eastward, 
where they found at last the boat which the white man from Ik-ke-hi-suk (Bellot 
Strait) had foilnd before them. Further on, about half a mile (as he now shows 
by the islet before referred to) they found the other boat. The distance from the 
boats to the tenting-place could be made by a smart walk throughout a long day, 
following the coast-line. When he first found the boats (in 18G1, as made out by 
Hall), the ice between Cape Crozier and Admiralty Inlet was very rugged and 
heavy, but the next year it was all smooth. He thinks from the kind of ice seen 



July, 1869.] McClintocJc's Revolver. 421 

on this second visit, that there is occasionally a season when a ship can sail 
through that strait (Victoria Strait). In-noo1c-poo-zhec-jool- further said that before 
he ^'isited Ki-ki-tuk (King William's Land) a Neitchille Innuit found a large knife 
under some stones; and he pointed out the place as Livingston Point, south side 
of Latrobe Bay. 

Question. Was not this knife placed there by some Innuit? No. Did the 
white men from Ik-ke-hi-shuk place it there! No; but those white men did put 
some things on the land in another place ftir off from there: among them a small 
gun (like Hall's — a revolver). These things the Innuits found and took. Koorif/- 
on-e-loo1i, at Pellj' Bay, has the revolver. 

" Had I known this," adds Hall, "when 1 met Koongoii-e-loolc at our thirty- 
seventh encampment on Becher River, I would have got sight of this stolen 
revolver which Lieutenant McClintock so unfortunately deposited in the land of 
thieves. The Neitchille Innuits will steal whenever they can get a chance — even 
one Innuit from another. When I escaped from this latter evil on my late sledge 
journey to King William's Land it was because ' Jerry ' told Jj^/t-A-ee-fa (Jerry's 
own cousin) to tell all the Innuits about us when at that twenty-seventh encamp- 
ment, near Cape Dryden, that they must not steal from the white man (that 
is from me) or from any of his (my) men; because if they did they would get 
terribly i)unished if they ever came to I wil lik, and saw any ship here. This 
was a sharp, commendable trick, of 'Jerry's' own invention, and it had a most 
desirable result." 

Fuller details of like conversations held about this time, and of 
some of those held on King William's Land and on Todd's Island, will 
be found in paper C of Appendix IV. The inquiries and the test 
questions appear to have been generally close. Instances in which 
Hall expresses a doubt as to the consistency of the statements made 
by the natives have been omitted from the extracts, and Arctic 
travelers will best judge of the value of those which are given ; they 
will remember that natives, when compensated for their talks, may 
have willingly extended them. Hall certainly liberally paid his 
friends for their services. He gave NuJcerzhoG, in 1869, even his boat 
Sylvia for accompanying him to Ki-ki-tuk, and found that he must 



422 The Voyage to the North Pole again Contemplated. [Juiy, iseg. 

now buy it back if the whalers did not come to take him home. He 

writes, however, fairly in all cases for or against himself — for or against 

the character of his information from the natives. 

With the unwilling consciousness that he could accomplish 

nothing of further research in the Frozen Regions, he had now to 

think of a Return to the United States ; purposing there to collate 

and publish the results of his protracted Arctic experience ; then to 

make his long-meditated voyage to the Pole; and, if possible, afterward 

revisit King William's Land. In regard this last, he writes : 

Day after day I have been reading and re-reading the books I have with me 
on Arctic voyages. How my soul longs for the time to come when I can be on my 
North Pole Expedition ! I cannot, if I would, restrain my zeal for making Arctic 
discoveries. My purpose is to make as quick a voj'age as possible to the States, 
and then, at once, make preparations for my Polar Expedition. I hope to start 
next spring with a vessel for Jones' Sound, and thence toward the North Pole as 
far as navigation will permit. The following spring, by sledge journey, I will 
make for the goal of my ambition, the North Pole. I do hope to be able to 
resume snow-hut and tent encampment very near the Pole by the latter part of 

1870, and much nearer, indeed at the very Pole, in the spring following, to wit, in 

1871. There is no use in man's saying, it cannot be done — that the North Pole 
is beyond our reach. By judicious plans, and by having a carefully selected com- 
pany, I trust with a Heaven -protecting care to reach it in less time, and with far 
less mental anxieties, than I have experienced to get to King William's Land. I 
have always held to the opinion that whoever would lead the way there should 
first have years of experience among the wild natives of the North : and this is 
one of my reasons for submitting to searching so long for the lost ones of Frank- 
lin's Expedition. 

The expression of such purposes, including that of a subsequent 
return to King William's Land, is certainly remarkable, as coming 
from one whose sledge journeys only, during the five years which now 
closed upon him, exceeded the aggregate of four thousand miles. A 
willHngness "to resume snow hut and tent" would seem explicable 



July, 1869.] The Coast-Line of Repulse Bay Completed. 423 

only by supposing- that next to the lofty ideas with which his mind 
enthusiastically invested every thing Arctic, was the extreme of a 
strange fascination with the uncouth life he had been leading. He 
says himself, at about this same date, that there was nothing in the 
way of food in which the natives delighted that he did not delight in, 
and that this may appear strange to some, but was true. He had that 
day "a grand good feast on the kind of meat he had been longing for — 
the deer killed last fall ; rotten, strong, and stinking, and for these 
qualities, excellent for Innuits and for the writer." 

The six weeks which immediately followed his return to the bay 
were occupied in completing a sketch of Talloon Bay ; in hunting 
with the natives and in sharing for a time a double tupik with eleven 
of them ; in Arctic study and meditations on his next Polar journey ; 
and in preparing for shipment the bone from the whale cached the 
year previous. He spent several days in surveying, and completed 
the coast-line by a survey of Talloon Bay, but under trying disad- 
vantages. 

No whaling-vessels could be reasonably expected to anive before 
the first week of August, nor was it at all certain that any would 
come in during the season. He had, therefore, again to think of 
the boat journey whicli might become necessary to York Factory, the 
difficulty of making which journey in the frail Sylvia had been con- 
sidered the year before. No lack of provisions would now be a bar 
to this voyage, for he had well husbanded his old stores, and the addi- 
tions made on his recent sledge journey were themselves in excess of 
all present need. "Really we have been blessed, greatly blessed, in 
the way of provisions. The amount prepared for and acquired on our 



424 Provisions Abundant [Jniy, i869. 

late sledge journey was overwhelming ; now there is a considerable 
sufficiency to take a party from this place to York Factory." These 
stores were still, however, closely husbanded, and all reliance for 
the supply of immediate wants was safely placed on new hunts for 
the deer, the seal, and the walrus. Salmon fishing was also hope- 
fully looked for. Nor were any of these expectations disappointed. 
The natives from Iwillik, including also some from Pelly Bay and 
Ig-loo-lik, repeatedly divided themselves into parties for hunting 
and sealing, and brought in abundant returns. Even Tn-nooJc-poo- 
shee-jooh surprised Hall by his quickness in learning the use of the 
rifle ; and Nu-ker-zJioo one morning slipped quietly from his bed and 
killed two large ook-gooks. Hall bartered with him for the meat of 
one of the four which he had killed during the season, in noting 
which he says, "the skins, blubber, blood, and meat of these animals 
(especially the first) are very vahiable ; lashing-lines, draught-lines, 
seal and walrus lines, and the soles for kummins (boots) being made 
from them." The total weight of one animal was 1,500 pounds. A 
large number of salmon also were at difi'erent times secured near 
Beacon Hill, the fish measuring from 27 to 32 inches in length, and 
weighing each as much as 1 3 pounds. In the beginning of the season 
they were caught by hook and line from the margin of lake-ice near 
the shore, where a space had been melted aAvay by the radiation of 
heat from the adjacent land 

What gave him the utmost annoyance was the almost entire 
demoralization which this very abundance brought upon the natives. 
They stuffed and stuffed till all their provision was gone, and when 
they could get no more they were ready to starve. Three-fourths of 
their food was eaten for the mere gratification of eating; nothing but 



jTuir, 1869.] Arctic Temperatures. 425 

feasting and feasting, when possible, was the rule. The worst of the 
matter was not, however, their sleeping at midday, and devoting the 
rest to mirth, games, and this feasting; but their making the hunts 
the occasions for promiscuous concubinage, one example of which 
will suffice. On the 13th of the month, "Jerry," going off on a hunt 
in one direction, took with him Ar-movJs wife and three children, 
while Ar-moii, in exchange, took ''Jerry's" number one wife with 
her infant as companions on his hunt on a different course ; both 
parties, as was frequently the case, extending their absence, and 
leaving Hall to support wives number two, as well as the families of 
others who had gone off, providing them literally nothing to eat. It 
must be added also, with regret, that like exchanges became habitual 
while all parties were in their snow huts ; and that Hall found it 
impossible to restrain entirely even his own Eskimo man. Hannah 
said she " would rather die right away than stay at the bay," and Hall 
then promised her that she and Joe should return to the United 
States with him. 

The Arctic Temperature during the month of July was high, and 
rains and storms were frequent. The first day was gloomy, with thick 
dark rain clouds and a light wind from the southeast ; the thermometer 
reading at noon 4S°. Through the night of the second and most of 
the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth the rains were heavy ; the storms 
coming generally from the south, southeast, and northeast. The 
tenth, eleventh, and twelfth were hot days, although the wind was from 
the north-northwest; the lowest readings of the thermometer were at 
night 40°, 43°, and 46°; and the highest at noon (at 3 p. m. on the 
twelfth) were 60°, 65°, and 71°; — temperatures spoken of as very 



426 Mosquitoes as Torments. [Juiy, isen. 

uncomfortable for Arctic denizens A storm on the 19th was accom- 
panied by sharp hghtning. 

The plains were now purple with the wild saxifrage {Saxifraga 
oppositifolia) ; its beautiful flowers followed by those of other floral 
tribes, clothed the earth with carpets of gold, crimson, blue, white, 
pink, and straw color. The Andromeda tetragona, so often named as 
the shrub-fuel, itself bore pretty flowers. Hall's collection of wild 
flowers embraced a dozen varieties. 

Mosquitoes flrst appeared on the 7th of July, and afterwards on 
his trips to Talloon they were exceedingly troublesome. 
He records an experience of one walk : 

The sun was about 5 degiees higli. Not a breath of air stirring, the sun 
shining hot, and the mosquitoes desperately intent on getting all the blood of the 
only white man of the country. I kept up a constant battling with my seal-skin 
mittens directly before my face, now and then letting tliem slap flrst on one and 
then on the other of my hands, which operations crushed many a foe. It seemed 
to me at times as if 1 never would get back. Minutes were hke hours, and the 
distance of about two miles seemed more like half a score. At length I got back 
to my home, both temperature and temper high. I made quick work in throwing 
open the canvas roof of our stores, and, getting to our medicine-chest, snatched 
a half-pint bottle of mosquito-proof oil, and with a little of this besmeared every 
exposable i>art of my person. How glorious and sudden was the change. A 
thousand devils, each armed with lancet and blood-pump, courageously battling 
my very face, departed at once in supreme disgust at the confounded stink the 
coal-oil had difiused about me. 

The questions of the way of return to America remained an unceas- 
ing anxiety. In case no vessel should come into the bay, it was quite 
uncertain whether he could get any of the Innuits to accompany him 
on a boat voyage down the Welcome from which to proceed to York 
Factory on Hudson's Bay, or even to seek in the Welcome for a ship 
which might be bound for the United States. " Other matters also, 



July, 1869. 



The Bone of the Third WliaJe Gummed. 427 



in this connection, weighed lieavily on his mind : — to attempt to reach 
the Factory in such a frail boat as the Sylvia along a well-known 
most treacherous coast and without even a chart of it: — Could he 
even with a trust-worthy crew commit his notes and journals of 
what he had acquired relative to the Franklin Expedition by five 
years' adventurous life among a savage people to the fortune of so 
desperate a boat voyage." As for the whalebone and musk-cattle 
skins, his Arctic library and other things of personal value, he 
thought it his duty to abandon them if compelled to make such a 
voyage; the relics, manuscripts, and documents being the only things 
of which he earnestly desired the absolute safety. 

An almost equal anxiety was found in the attempted recovery of 
the whalebone cached the previous year. Several searches were early 
made with probings and much labor down into the ice and snow, but 
these were premature. On the 15th of the month a successful opening 
was secured. The hu^e snow-bank over the lonD--covered bone had 
yet melted only enough to expose the tips which still stood upright ; 
but when recovered from its icy bed the bone was sledded overland to 
a point opposite the usual anchorage of the whalers ; and, after many 
days' work, Hall found that he had gummed with assistance from the 
natives 534 slabs, weighing nearly 800 pounds. On the sale of this and 
of some of his musk-ox skins he depended for the payment of such 
costs of the expedition as were not yet provided for, especially for the 
payment of the sums due to the four white men of his party of 1868. 

And now the final relief for all anxieties appeared even earlier than 
he had looked for its coming. On sighting the Ansell Gibbs, of New 
Bedford, August 5th, he entered in his journal, "It is now certain 
I shall not be obliged to make the dangerous boat journey to York 



428 Hall, Hannah, and Joe on Board Ship. [August, iseo. 

Factory; God be praised, for he dotli continually bless me." A few 
days after this, such stores and provisions as would not be needed 
were liberally distributed among his Innuit friends, with whom he 
spent a whole night in feasting and in a last talk about the lost ones 
of Franklin's Expedition. In the morning, four boats, manned by the 
natives, carried out to the Ansell Gibbs all the bone, and with it sixty- 
eight musk-ox skins, and all the journals and note-books of this five- 
year Arctic residence. At midnight, Hall, with Eskimo Joe, Hannah, 
and her adopted child Pun-na, were safe on board Captain Fisher's 
vessel, bound for a short cruise down the Welcome, and thence to the 
United States. In noting his leave-taking of the Innuits, he records 
some strong expressions of a regret at parting from those with whom 
he had companied so long ; adding that they had learned to call him 
" father," and that for their gakes he would try to persuade the Hud- 
son Bay Company to establish a factory on Repulse Bay, as an 
enterprise hopeful of good to both parties. He was now certainly 
well prepared to judge of this, for his acquaintance had extended 
itself to a number of tribes inhabiting the middle region of the Conti- 
nent, and to this acquaintance was added his previous two years' expe- 
rience with those on the east side — on Cumberland Gulf — as well as 
his visit to Greenland. 

The Ansell Gibbs left Repulse Bay on the 13th, but remained at 
and near Whale Point, (the spot on which Hall had hoped first to land 
in 18G4,) until the 28th, Captain Fisher here employing his crew in 
further boat expeditions in search of whales. Hall and Ebierbing fre- 
quently engaged in hunting on shore, securing a large number of deer. 
Including the net products of a Polar bear, also killed by the two 



Aiisugi, 1S69.] Adventure ivitJi a Polar. 429 

liimters, the total Aveiglit of meat placed on board the ship for their 
crew fell but little short of 3,000 pounds, the result of nine days' work. 
The story of a hazardous adventure with the Polar on the 2Gth is thus 
told: 

Having made some astronomical observations, I commenced computing 
them, and Lad not been long occupied before Joe cried out '^Ni-noo! Ki-noo!''^ 
wlien at once I dropped pen and journal and jumi)ed out of tent, and took a look 
in the direction Joe pointed, which was to Whale Point; and surely there was 
the "i\-i-«oo." We watched it for a moment, and saw it walk about, make a 
plunge into the sea, and then return to the land, wlien it walked up on the liill- 
side of Whale Point and then lay down. 

We were not long getting ready for the prospective adventurous bear-hunt. 
I say adventurous, for in truth we knew it to be so. We had no dog and no spears 
with which to defend ourselves in case our fire-arms failed to kill outright on the 
first shot; and then, to make matters more ixncertain, our percussion-caps could 
not be depended on ; quite a proportion of them fail to take fire. If we should 
happen simplj' to wound the bear, that would make it furious, and there was no 
telling the end of its human slaying. It might, as we all thought, make its way 
to the tent during the absence of myself and Joe, and before we could come to 
the rescue of Hannah and little Pun-na they might be killed by the wounded and 
enraged monster beast. With all this no very flattering view of the case we con- 
cluded, however, to go for the hunt. As Joe and myself got about half-way to 
Whale Point we began to think that the large dirty white mass we saw on 
Whale Point and took to be the recumbent ni-noo, Avas a large rock; but we kept 
on our windings and let the ridges of rock-land hide us from view as much as 
possible. At length we came within a hundred yards of the sleeping big lion of 
the North, and then behind a gentle sloping hill we watched him. At the same 
time we were busy putting our fire-arms in comi)lete order for the forthcoming 
fray. I had buck-shot in tl;e left of my double-barrel ; so this charge I drew forth 
and replaced it with an ounce ball, and then 1 was ready for a double shot if the 
case needed it. Our huge rock pi'oved to be the bear after all, as we readily i)er- 
ceived on arriving at the place where we stopped to get our arms ready. As 
we watched ni-noo, we noticed that every few minutes he would raise his long- 
necked liead, turn it this way and that, — look all around, sniff the air, — and then 
replace it flat down on the smooth rock-bed on which he was then napping. 

A fresh breeze was blowing from the southwest, and every now and then 
my Joe kejit plucking out little tufts of deer-hair from his dress, lifting them up. 



430 HaJl Lmids at New Bedford, Massachusetts. [September, isea. 

and giving them to the wind, to be sure that we were keeping our persons aloof 
from all possibility of the bear scenting us. All sand on and about our boots 
was caretully brushed off, so that our last stragetic advance toward the bear 
might be made without making any noise, for all our precautions and movements 
were needed to be from sharper forethought and ready wit than are required in 
deer-hunting; so we acted accordingly. At length, at the end of half an hour, 
Ave left our final preparation spot, and, under the shelter of the rocks, stealthily, 
slowly, and, I must confess, with hearts thumping pit-a-pat, advanced directly to- 
ward the still sleeping, but now and then awaking, beast of the icy wilderness. 
Every few steps we would raise the heads of our low-bended bodies to catch a view 
of the awaking of our foe until we finally reached the spot we desired, which was 
within easy gunshot. It was quite certain that we had the bear to kiU outright, or 
he would kill us if only wounded ; for on the discharge of our arms we should have 
nothing whatever with which to defend ourselves. The time came when signals 
passed between myself and Joe ; he fired, and the next instant the charge from 
my right barrel followed. Joe's ball penetrated the brain through the skull in 
front, knocking the bear stiff"; mine ploughed its way through the jugular of the 
neck. So ni-noo was twice killed instantly. It proved to be a she-bear, very fat, 
but without a particle of anything in her paunch. We skinned and quartered and 
placed all underneath the skin, close by a rock, and ready for the Ansell Gibbs. 

The whaler left the Welcome on the 28th, passed through Hud- 
son's Bay and Straits without the occurrence of any incident of unusual 
interest, and came into the harbor of New Bedford, Mass., Septem- 
ber 26th. 

When nearing the light-house off Nantucket, Mass., Hannah and 
jind her child doffed their native dresses for those of a civilized land. 
At the Parker House, New Bedford, Hall made his last journal entry : 
" September 26, 1869, 2 p. m. : — How thankful to High Heaven ought 
my poor heart to be for the blessed privilege of again placing my foot 
upon the land of my country." 

He immediately telegraphed his arrival to Mr. Henry Grinnell, 
expressing his hope of seeing him in a few days in New York. Within 
the next month, he was at work in that city for tlio North Polar Expe- 
dition of 1871. 



Conclusion. 431 



CONCLUSION OF THE NARRATIVE. 

It will not be expected that Hall's biography will be found here. 
His three Expeditions, together with the weary labors of the years of 
preparation which preceded each, are his true memorials. The Nar- 
ratives of his first voyage and of his third (the Polaris) sufficiently dis- 
prove the idea which has been sometimes hastily expressed that he 
was an ignorant and visionary dreamer; and the impress on the minds 
of an}^ who may inspect the precise and often graphic journals of the 
years with which the present Narrative has had to deal, will be that 
which the evidences of a frank truthfulness create : the manifestation 
of an indomitable will, energy, and perseverance in the devout pursuit 
of a single object. He believed it attainable, and believed himself 
called to it as to his life-woi'k. 

The testimony of one who, next to the late Mr. Grinnell, could 
most justly estimate his character, is emphatically clear on tjie points 
that "Hall was a single-minded trusting man, who believed that others 
were like himself His enthusiasm concerning his favorite objects was 
extreme and abiding, and gave tone and color to all his words and 
acts. His very want of general knowledge and his defiencies in spe- 
cial departments of science made him more fit for an explorer than a 
scholar or scientist could have been. He looked upon explorations 
and all which appertained to the increase of geographical knowledge 
as far above all else ; and this childlike or single purpose explains the 
man's career. The more information he could gather, the happier he 



432 Puhlic Tributes to Hall. 

felt. It was, indeed, the disappointment produced by the obstacles 
thrown in his way on his third Expedition, which probably caused his 
death on the Polaris in November, 1871." With this estimate, delib- 
erately formed by Mr. Brevoort, of Brooklyn, from personal and close 
acquaintance, the judgments of a number of other friends have been 
found to coincide. In preparing this Narrative they have been the 
more willingly received in the lack of all personal acquaintance with 
Hall. 

Official and public acknowledgments of Hall's worth have freely 
appeared — in the language of the National Academy of Sciences before 
quoted, in the appointment conferred on him by the Executive of the 
United States in 1871, in the award of the gold medal made by the 
Paris Geographical Society in 187H,^ and in the courteous tributes paid 
at his grave by the late English Arctic Expedition under Captain 
Nares. 

The extreme discomforts, exposures, and labors incident to a 
residence among the Eskimos were not unforeseen when he entei'ed 
on even his first Expedition ; and his experience then must have led 
him to anticipate that greater trials would be his lot on a second and 
longer banishment from civilized life. But he avowed, as has been 
seen, a vv^illingness to remain out for a term of even ten years, if this 
should prove a necessity. He must have felt that he could trust his 
two Eskimo friends throughout a protracted stay in a country in which 
they would find themselves among their own race, and yet it is surpris- 
ing that, even with their unchanging help, he could control unharmed 
so many of the Innuits, subordinate their chief, Ou-c-la, to his purposes, 
and, with such slender resources, secure the success he attained. His 

* For a fac-aimile of this medal and a translation of the report made by Mr. V. A. Malte 
Brtin to tin> iSoc'idtd dc Oeoi^rapliic of Paris, who conferred it, see ('lin])ter XXV of the "Narra- 
tive of the North I'ohir Expedition of 1H71." 



Honest Becords. 433 

notes say : " Nothing but an experience of years could enable me to 
control such untamable eagles." Unquestionably, the known presence 
of the whalers in Repulse Bay had much to do with his maintenance 
of authority, and next to this was his abiHty to supply the wants of 
the natives when suffering; and yet, perhaps, above both of these 
must be placed his politic concession to their low prejudices and his 
self-control. Very frequently in the journals appear proofs of his hasty 
judgments, and of suspicions of evil intended against himself by the 
whaling captains as well as by the Innuits ; but as frequently appear 
also proofs of his repressing such feelings, and recording his regrets at 
his having given place to them in his notes or in his heart. The nu- 
merous delays experienced by his restless spirit from the indolence and 
especially from the superstitions of the natives— delays at critical 
times too— were trying to his temper. They were placed to the 
wrong account when they gave room for his imagination to credit 
them to purposes of evil design. But his feelings were naturally 
stirred with something besides pity when he found himself unable to 
obtain proper subsistence in the hut or move forward on a journey, 
because the Innuits would neither eat nor suffer others to eat a certain 
kind of food on a given day, or work until a certain time had passed :— 
To estimate all of which aright, Hall must be thought of as a single 
white man, alone among the degraded and habituating himself to 
such degraded modes of life with them as can be excused only in the 
light of his subordinating everything to his one purpose, and the 
necessity of his so living in order to avoid the visits of scurvy.* 

* In coufirmatio^ of the opinions just expressed, as derivecl from Hall'sjourn.als, the foUow- 
ing extracts are given, by permission, from the jonrnal of Mr. William Crane, jr., of Baltimore 
Md., who in tlie summer of 1837 visited Hall from the Era, commanded byCapt. Geor-e E Tyson' 

"Thursday, Auomt 15, 1867.-At 12 m., took in sail and ran in under jib and foresail into a 
S. Ex. 27 28 



434 Mr. Crane's Visit to Hall at Repulse Bay, 1867. 

It will be a harsh criticism which pronounces his judgment defect- 
ive, or its exercise hasty. He demonstrated the correctness of his 
belief in the possibility of living for a long period out of the pale 
of civilized life by his own passing through such a term without 
extreme suifering or any long illness. He was not, then, far out of 
the way in judging that some of Franklin's men also might have been 
found so living, and even for a period of ten years. 

His ability, industry, and perseverance, manifest in the endur- 
ance of so long an absence from the endearments of country and home 
and in his subjection to the revolting customs of the degraded around 
him, are vet more manifest in the victories over what again and ag-ain 

cosy harbor formed by three small islands at the head of Repulse Bay, lat. 66° 26' N., lon<^. 86° 22' 
W. Mr. Hall's (the Arctic explorer) tent and quarters are on headland to the westward of us. 

" Friday, ^M(/MS< 16, 1867. — * '■ * * Coming aboard at 4 p. ra., found the ship crowded 
with natives ; the lirst I have seen. Mr. Hall and party, sent out by Mr. H. Griunell, of New York, 
came aboard and were hospitably received. Accepted an invitation to visit Hall ashore ; shall 
probably do so to-morrow. Conversed for fully an hour with the explorer. Found that he had 
read almost everything that had ever been written on the subject of Arctic exploration. Judging 
from his conversation, I should not call him an educated, but certainly an intelligent man. 

"Saturday, August 17, 1867. — Called upon Hall as I was returning from an expedition to 
the mainland. His tupik, or seal-skin tent, was pitched not very far from our anchorage, on the 
side of a rocky headland called by the natives Tita-tow-yak-loo-lik (Bloodless Laud), and which 
I subsequently discovered was the southernmost point of Melville Peninsula. When I visited 
Hall ashore, I found him "at home" amid the usual i-epugnant accessories of Arctic life, clothed 
in Innuit costume, seated & la Tare on a deer-skin rug ; an Innuit squaw on one side and her 
liusband on the other. An intelligent looking native dog crouched lazily at his feet. These 
three companions, the Esquimaux man, woman, and dog, I was afterward informed, had been the 
explorer's constant and faithful adherents in all his perilous wanderings. Hall's quarters in 
no wise differed from the Innuit habitations generally. Their interior presented fully as repul- 
sive a spectacle as I had ever witnessed in any African hut or Indian wigwam. I was told by 
him thiit tliis mode of life was entirely from choice, and that in accommodating himself to it lie 
w.as only preparing for future struggles against the rigors and perils of this frightful climate. 
He said that ho felt capable of enduring severer hardships than (!ver he liad yet undergone, and 
was satisfied that in accustoming himself to native habits iind native diet he was adopting the 
only sure method of escaping tlu; great Arctic curse — scurvy. During our short sojourn in Re- 
l>ulse Bay I had repealed long and interesting conversations with him. He had then just re- 
turned from a long sledge journey to the westward, and was c<mteni])lating another, which 
would be still further westward, to King William's Laud in February. If this expedition realized 
his »'xpectatious, ho j)roposed to n^turn as soon as practicable to the United States, when he 
would endeavor to enlist the aid of the (iovernment, aud extend the scope of his explorations so 
as lo embrace the discovery of the Northwest Passage." 



Serious Obstacles Overcome. 435 

seemed to be insurmountable obstacles. Through the years of strug- 
gle for an outfit, hope was more than once instantly crushed at the 
moment when success seemed sure; at the time of his first landing 
in the Arctic Regions the mistake of his captain cost him a whole 
year's advance; on his first practicable forward movement his fright- 
ened party turned back his steps ; when provisions and stores were 
again ready he could secure no team ; and after a severe journey in 
mid-winter, on his return could obtain no men ; — and when at last, in 
the fifth year he stood on King William's Land, it was to be hurried 
away before the summer's sun could lift the snow-pall from the treas- 
ures he was seeking. 

Would it not have been the record of many others that, after 
grappling with some only of such difficulties, they would have found 
themselves at the close of any one year of disappointment safe on 
board a hospitable whaler 1 Would not many have justified them- 
selves when returning to their country and reporting insuperable 
obstacles ? Expeditions largely equipped, and led by men of Arctic 
experience and of brave heart, have more than once so returned to 
be justified and honored by their countrymen. Hall had an uncon- 
querable determination to accomplish something, and if this be called 
a mere enthusiasm, it was an enthusiasm which led him to endure and 
fight his way and patiently await new issues, and again endure and 
fight and conquer. Without such an iron will he would never have 
remained within these desolate reg-ions through five Arctic winters 
enduring the squalid wretchedness of the snow-huts ; nor have made 
his sledge journeys to Pelly Bay, to Cape Weynton, to Ig-loo-lik, to 
Fury and Hecla Straits, to Lyon's Inlet, and to King William's 



436 The Weak Part of HalVs Record. 

Land, aggregating more than 3,000 miles. His voyage out and. return, 
his surveying work around Repulse Bay, and the sledge journeys just 
referred to, foot up in miles a considerable excess over the figures 
10,000. 

It has not been out of place to say that, besides the extreme of enthu- 
siasm, a fascination for Arctic life seems to have laid hold upon him — 
the fascination which in one or another form makes the traveler restless 
while oif from his journey, as it does the sailor when off the sea. If 
it seem strange to the landsman that the shipwrecked mariner is ready 
for a new cruise, and, in his own feelings, safer in a storm on the sea 
than on the land, it is as strange to contemplate the eager return to 
Arctic adventure and dangers by such sufferers as Franklin, Back, 
Richardson, Hall, and their comrades. Faith in an overruling Provi- 
dence and in the cardinal doctrines of the Christian religion was 
evidently inwrought in them ; in Hall, probably from the date of 
his earliest home training. Full expression of this is found in his 
journals. 

The weakest part of the record for the years of which this 
NaiTative speaks is, perhaps, his permitting himself to turn aside from 
his long-proposed journey to King William's Land and lose a year by 
his visit to the straits of Fury and Hecla. His motive, however, for 
this was sincerely in keeping with the purposes of the expedition. The 
2)ossibiliti/ of yet finding a survivor of Franklin's party again loomed 
up before his enthusiastic view, and he thought himself fully justified 
ill making search for traces of those of whom the Innuits so confi- 
dently and unitedly spoke as existing in the Peninsula. If his judg- 
ment was then at fault, his motives were as commendable as they had 



International Tributes 437 

been when expressed in the draughting of the plans for his first outfit, 
or when he wrote in answer to Lady FrankHn's proposal that he 
should go out a third time for the record : "As for pay, I should 
ask nothing." 

Sir George Nares, commanding the late English Arctic Expe- 
dition of 1875, has recorded in his official report to Parliament his 
testimonials to Hall's fidelity as an Arctic explorer: — 

" The coast-line was observed to be continuous for about thirty 
miles, forming a bay, bounded toward the west by the U. S. range 
of mountains, with Mounts Mary and Julia and Cape Joseph Henry, 
agreeing so well with HalVs description^ that it was impossible to mis- 
take their identity. Their bearings also, although dififering upwards 
of 30° from those of the published chart, agreed precisely ivith his 
published report." 

On the 13th of May (1876), in the presence of twenty-four offi- 
cers and men. Captain Stephenson, of the English Expedition, hoisted 
the American flag over the grave of Captain Hall, and at the foot 
erected a brass tablet, prepared in England, bearing the following 
inscription: 

SACKED TO THE MEMORY OF 

CAPTAIN C. F. HALL, 

Of the U. S. S. "Polaris 

Who Sacrificed his Life in the advancement of Science, November 8th, 187L 

This Tablet has been erected by the British Polar Expedition of 1875, 

Who, following in his footsteps, have profited by his Experience. 

He also reported to Captain Nares that the grave was found in an 
excellent state of preservation. The willow planted by Tyson was 



438 



Tlie Grave Visited hi/ Captain Stephenson, Ji. K. 



still alive. The inscription put upon it in July, 1871, by Hall's com- 
rades, still read: 

IX) THE MEMORY OF 

CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, 

Late Couimander U. S. Steamer Polaris, N. Polo Expedition, 

Died Nov. 8, 1871. — Aged 50 years. 

"I am the Resurrection and the life: he that believeth on Me thou<rh he were dead 

yet shall he live." 




p 



HAPTER Xiy. 



ADDITIONAL NOTES— HALL'S TWO ESKIMO FRIENDS— 
THEIR RELA^ITVES— THE GRAVES IN THE CEME- 
TERY AT GROTON, CONNECTICUT. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Hall's Eskimo Friends : — Ebierbing (Joe) and Too-koo-li-too (Hannah) — Theik Children- 
Joe's Cousins — The Inscriptions in the Cemetery at Groton, Connecticut. 

At the close of this Narrative, it may be conceded as something due 
in simple justice to the two Eskimos who have been so frequently named 
within the previous pages, tliat a few items of their personal history be 
recorded. Through all the trials of Hall's three expeditions — a period 
of more than ten years — they were not only his steadfast friends, but 
indispensable supporters without whom he could never have carried 
forward his investigations, or have kept, in some emergencies, even his 
life among the Innuits. Joe Ebierbing was, as has frequently appeared 
in the Narrative, Hall's dependence as hunter. On repeated occasions, 
by his native skill in the use of the lance and line and by his readily 
learned use of the rifle, he procured food in the darkest days of want, 
not for Hall alone, but often for the less skillful and suffering Innuits 
around him : — materially aiding Hall by this beyond the bare support 
of the lives saved, and gaining for the expedition lasting good-will and 
help. Hannah was perhaps the more intelligent and, as a woman, 
naturally of quicker perception in the things of every-day life which 
would serve the necessities of the white man among strangers. She 
proved an interpreter without whom every effort to understand the 
natives of Cumberland Grulf, of Repulse Bay, of Ig-loo-lik, of Pelly 
Bay, or of the country on the route to King William's Land, would 
have been hopeless — every one of Hall's journeys and talks with the 
Innuits nearly useless. 

441 



442 Joe and Hannah Drifting hij their Home. 

But beyond all this, the heroic conduct of these two on the last of 
Hall's voyages claims a tribute. It must be very plain to everj^ reader 
of the Narrative of that Polaris voyage that these Eskimos saved the 
lives of Tyson's party on the fearful ice-floe drift of more than 1,200 
miles. 

In the early days of that suffering, when the floe was drifting 
past Cumberland Sound and was nearly opposite their native place, 
the temptation presented itself to this couple to escape to the main- 
land. "Father Hall" was gone from them, and, at that time, there 
were just grounds of fear within their breasts that, in the almost 
famishing condition of the white men, some of them might make the 
Eskimos the first victims, if the direst necessity should come. 

Hannah listened to no words of such persuasion, but strengthened 
Joe's purpose to remain ; a hunter for the seal and the bear was thus 
still to be at hand for the saving of men whose skill in such hunts was 
plainly as unequal to their need as was their diminished strength. Of 
his true worth in this respect the most convincing proof came toward 
the last days of those dark months. The story of this is told on the 
568th page of Admiral Davis's Narrative, where it will be found 
recorded that on the 22d of April, 1873, when Tyson's party on 
the floe, weakened by their six months' exposures, were on that 
day half-drowned, cold, and almost literally without a morsel of 
food, Joe, on going out for the fourth time to watch, saw a bear 
coming toward the party, hurried back for his gun, and, requesting 
all hands to lie perfectly still, returned with his companion Hans* 

* Rans' own story of his experience witli Hall's party, and with the expeditions of Dr. 
Kane, Dr. Hayes, and Captain Narcs, has been lately ])nl)lished in a translation from the Greenland 
tongue by Doctor Henry Rink, author of "Tales and Traditions of the Eskimos," and of other 
works. Hans' story of his share in the expeditions will he read with interest; — and his odd ac- 
count of his visit to Washington, when brouglit to the city with others of the rescued Floe pjirty. 




g.(M^si^ 



Kroin :i pIiotoKraph liy (',. W. I'.-ich, New York. 



Joe and Hannah Taken to England. 443 

and with his aid instantly killed the ferocious animal. At this point 
in his Narrative Admiral Davis says: "But for the rifles in this extreme 
emergency, this story would not have been written." 

Joe and Hannah were natives of Cumberland Inlet, where Capt. 
S. 0. Budington, of Groton, first met them in the fall of 1851, on the 
island of Kim-ick-su-ic, — an island that gets its name from its flat 
center, which, covered with grass, gives it the look of a dog-skin. 
Captain Budington wintered there (in about lat. 65° 30', long. 62°) 
when in command of the McLellan, of New London. Hannah, who 
was born at Cape Serrel, on the west side of Davis Strait, was at the 
time of Captain Budington's visit only about twelve years of age, and 
Joe, who was then married to another woman, seemed to Budington at 
that time "as old as he does to-day." Cape Serrel was a whaling 
station, much visited by English and American sailors, and frequented 
by the Eskimos of Cumberland Gulf for trade. A few years after- 
ward, Mr. Bolby, a merchant of Hull, became much interested in these 
two persons, and took them with him in his own vessel on his return 
voyage from the Gulf In England he treated them as his guests with 
great liberality. They were married in his house in the presence of a 
large company, and, with Mr. Bolby, visited, in their native costume, 
many places in England and Scotland, and were presented to Queen 
Victoria, and dined with her and the Prince Consort. Hannah always 
spoke of the Queen as "very kind, very much lady." 

Two years afterward they returned to Cumberland Inlet, and 
there Hall first met them in 1860. Joe had just piloted two English 
vessels into Cornelius Grinnell Bay through a narrow channel more 
than one hundred miles in length. Both Joe and Hannah next accom- 
panied Hall through all those investigations which led to the discovery 



444 Their First Visit to the United States. 

of Frobislier's Bay and the Frobisher relics ; in 1862 they came with 
him to the United States. 

Hannah's wilHngness to leave her country seems to have been 
produced b}' her desire to keep with her, her husband, who was at the 
time being persuaded to leave her for another wife. His uncle U-gack 
was reported as having- had twenty wives, three of them living- with 
him at one time. At the time of Hall's return to the United States, 
Joe, who had been sick, was ordered by the an-ge-ko to take another 
wife as the only way to get well; but to his own best future success, 
as is well known, he came over with Hannah to the United States. 
His father had died when quite young ; his half-brother Ita-loo, left 
on the island, was met with in the year 1873 by Captain Greer, 
U. S. N , of the relief ship Tigress, came with him to New York, spent 
the winter in Groton, and died shortly after getting back to his 
native land. 

Joe and Hannah, after, as has been shown, assisting Hall in his 
preparations for the Second Expedition, and closely attending him 
through the years 1864-1869, again accompanied him on his last 
voyage in the Polaris, 1871, and returned to the United States with 
the Floe Party. They were as much attached to " Father Hall," as 
he was to them. 

In a home purchased for them by him, in Groton, Connecticut, 
they again commenced housekeeping in 1873, readily adapting them- 
selves to the customs of civilized life. Joe became a good carpenter 
and farm-hand, retaining his old love for fishing. Hannah was soon 
skillful in making up, with the help of her sewing-machine, furs and 
other salable articles for the people of New London and Groton. 

Their first child, Tu-ke-li-ke-ta, had died in New York in the winter 



HannaWs Death. 445 

of 1863; the second had been buried on the first sledge journey to 
King William's Land in 1866; a third, which Joe adopted in 1868, witli 
the consent of its parents and by the gift of a sled to them from Hall, 
came with him to the United States in 1869. Hannah named this 
child Sylvia, after her friend Miss Grinnell. The girl was an intelH- 
gent scholar at the Groton school until her death in 1875. 

The health of this couple had been repeatedly broken during the 
long period of suffering of the years 1864 to 1869; and they do not 
seem to have been readily acclimated in the United States. The terri- 
ble experience of the ice-floe especially had left severe traces on them. 
During the year 1876, Hannah suffered much with that fatal disease 
consumption ; a disease wdiich carries off the larger number of her 
race. It had been long gaining upon her. She bitterly felt the loss 
of her last child and the absence of her husband, who, after having 
been again out in the Arctic Kegions with Capt. Allen Young, of the 
Pandora, was then doing good service on board a vessel belonging to 
the United States Fish Commission. Hannah had become a true 
Christian; read her Bible, and showed a quiet, good life. After a 
season of protracted suffering, throughout which she \vas tenderly 
cared for by Mrs. Captain Budington and other friends in Groton, she 
breathed her last, as the old year went out, December 31, 1876, at the 
early age of 38. Her death was tranquil. Among her last words was 
the petition, "Come, Lord Jesus, and take thy poor creature home!" 

In June, 1878, Joe again sailed for the Arctic zone with the party 
spoken of in the Preliminary Chapter as sent out by Morison & 
Brown, of New York, and commanded by Lieutenant Schwatka, to 
prosecute a renewed search for tlie records of Sir John Franklin's 
Expedition. Mr. J. Carson Brevoort, of New York, Mr. J. J. Coj)p, 



446 The Eskimo Tombstones at Groton. 

Captain Buding-ton, and others, had unhesitatingly renewed their 
indorsement of the industry, honesty, and truthfuhiess of this simple- 
minded Eskimo man, who has received from the United States Gov- 
ernment much less compensation for noble services than perhaps any 
other one of the Polaris Expedition. 

MEMOKIALS. 

In the quiet cemetery on the hillside of Groton may be found 
a few tombstones set up by its citizens in memory of nearly all 
the Eskimos who have visited the United States. One of these 
stones bears the name of him who, going out with Hall, died on board 
the George Henry while eagerly inquiring as he again neared his 
native land, "Do you see ice, iceP^ 

CUD-LAR-GO. 
Died Jnly 1, 1860. 

On another tombstone will be read : 

OU-SE-GOXG (JEANNIE.) 
Died July 1st, 18(i7. Aged 28 years. 







o 

H 
O 
2; 

O 
2; 

H 

a 

> 



c 

13 
O 
c« 

H 
p] 

:z: 

O 

a; 
o 

o 

n 
c 
2: 
2; 

M 

n 

H 



Pi 



) 



The Eskimo Tombstones at Groton. 



447 



Ou-se-gong was a cousin of Joe and wife of Kud-lup-pa-nmne, 
known by the whalers as "Abbott." 




Captain Budington brought these two Eskimos from Cumberland 
Inlet to New London in 1866; on their return with him the next 
year, Jeannie died on the voyage. 

Two smaller headstones put up for Hannah's children have on 
them the inscriptions : 

TUKE-LI-KE-TA : 
Died Fel) 28. 1863. Aged IS months. 

And ' 

SYLVIA GRINNELL EBIERBING. 

(Purina.) 

Born at Igloolik July, 186(). 

Died March 18, 187.->. 

"Of .inch in the Kinf/dom of Heaven." 

She was a survivor of the Polaris Expedition under Commander Charles Francis Hall, 
and was picked up with 19 others from an ice floe April 'M), 187;{, after a drift on the ice for a 
period of one hundred and ninety days and a distance of over twelve hundred miles. 

On a visit to these graves, when making inquiries of Eskimo Joe 
in regard to some facts for use in tliis Narrative, he was observed to 



448 t/be's Love for Hannah. 

kneel at Haimali's grave and carefully weed out the long grass. Then 
turning to his visitors, he said, "Hannah gone! Punna gone! Me go 
now again to King William's Land ; if have to fight, me no care," 

Over the grave of the faithful Hannah, the interpreter of each 
expedition, and the friend who wept at Hall's burial, has recently been 
placed an elegant granite headstone, with the monogram J. & H. and 
an Inscription, designed for her by Mr. J. J. Copp and other true 
friends. 

Note. — The usual appellatiou, Eslcimo, has been retained for Joe and Hannah throughout 
this Narrative because they were found to be so named in Hall's journals and by those who knew 
tbem while they were in the United States. It has been learned only while printing this last 
page that Captain Hall said these two and their people so disliked the name Eskimo as to be 
oflended when they heard themselves so called, instead of Innuits. It is perhaps an interesting 
question whether this preference for the name Innuit is to be attributed to any tribal antipathy 
to the natives residing further east in Greenland. It would seem to confirm the judgment of 
Mr. Dall, quoted on page 62 of the Narrative. 

For further instructive comparisons of the races occupying the Northern Section of the 
Continent see " Tales and Traditions of the Eskimos," by Dr. Henry Eink. Director for the Danish 
Government in Greenland. London, 1875. 




4.^\ 




oy 0~lr^ /v^ crtj-. 



From a photograph by T. W. SmiUie, Washington, D. C. 



lleVuttyjK Printint, C'u., Ilntu, 



APPENDIX I. 



ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE BY C. F. HALL ON HIS 
SECOND ARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1864-1869. 



449 



APPENDIX I. 



ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS, 1864-1869, 



NOTES ON THE OBSERVATIONS. 

Hall took witli him iu 1864 two sextants, a box and a pocket chronometer, 
several compasses, and a dip-circle; the last instrument and one of the sextants 
being loaned to him from the United States Coast Survey. 

From the experience of his first expedition, and from some further practice 
in the use of instruments after his return to New York, he hoped that he would 
succeed in making some observations of scientific value, as well as extend the 
knowledge of Arctic geography. 

In considering the observations here given, due allowance will be generously 
accorded for errors for which he was not fully responsible. His own frank state- 
ments of the extremely defective condition of his instruments have been more 
than once noted in the preceding pages. His sextants were soon out of order. 
The silvering of their mirrors iu the Arctic winter cracked off, and their screws 
and joints loosened by the inequality of expansion. He did not consider the 
work done, with even the Coast Survey pocket sextant, good work ; and often 
expressed the regret that no labor or ingenuity of his could remedy the defects 
caused by the influences of the Arctic exposures to whi^h all of his appliances 
were subjected. The dip-circle was broken in 1864. 

The chronometers showed themselves, at first, to be good time-keepers, but 
the roughness unavoidable iu handling and trans])orting them across the ice-floes 
soon disturbed their rates ; and in the last year of the expedition they more than 
once ceased to run. 

The compasses were doubtless good ; his perplexity in regard to their work 
arose, perhaps, chiefly from changes in the direction and force of the magnetic 
influences in regions subject to sudden and powerful fluctuations. After making 
due allowance for the error of taking some of his observations in the vicinity of 

451 



452 



HalVs Astronomical Observations. 



iron, it may be safely admitted that, for the most part, the discrepancies which 
will be found noted in the following pages are to be credited to the irregularities 
in terrestrial magnetism. 

Notwithstanding many and frequently recurring difficulties, Hall evidently 
lost no opportunities of securing observations for determining position as accu- 
rately as possible. The observations which follow have been computed from his 
journal entries, principally for use in constructing the maps which, with his notes 
and other data, supplement his surveying work. The computations have not been 
made with the precision demanded for observations unaffected by such lai'ge con- 
stant errors ; yet the reduced observations furnish data for determining the lati- 
tudes of places in the Arctic Zone but little known, and, in some cases, entirely 
unknown previously to Hall's visits. 

ASTEONOMICAL OBSEKVATIONS MADE DURING THE YEARS 1864-'69. 
[Reduced under the superintendence of Mr. K. W. D. Bryan, late of the Polaris Expedition ] 



July 29, 1864— Entrance to Hudson's Straits. 




July 31, 1864.- 


-Hudson's Straits — Continued. 


h. ni. 


s. 





/ ,/ 




h. 


m. 


a. 


/ 


„ 




3 51 




47 


7 


0- 


4 


23 


30 


92 35 




2Q- 


i 05 


30 




17 30 


Elevation 20 feet. 




28 




37 




Small sextant. 


10 


30 




20 






34 




37 






14 






20 






40 




34 




Lat. 61° 32'. 9 N. 


19 






19 
















21 






18 30 


Lat. 61° 5'.9 X. 


7 


43 

47 


3 

35 


69 15 

68 20 




2 0. 

At 9'' chron. slow on ship's 










4 3 




119 


30 


to right to Cape Kesolu- 




48 


50 


68 5 




chron. 5'' 25°'. 


16 


30 


118 


15 


tiou. 




49 


5 


67 50 






20 




117 


50 






59 


50 


65 45 






23 




117 


20 




8 




1 
5 


45 
50 

27 


30 

15 

64 30 














6 17 




42 


21 


Q. 




6 


37 


15 






18 


30 




15 


Vessel on course WNW. 




7 


45 







Long. 66° 51'.7 W. 


20 
24 


20 
45 


41 


5 
45 


true, 3 knots per liour. 












1 








1 


25 


35 




40 








August 3, 1864 Hudson's Straits. I 


26 
31 


30 
30 




35 
10 


Chrou. slow 4'' 57'". 




















32 


40 




5 


Lat. 61° 8' N. 


h. 


m. 


.s. 


1 


/' 




33 


40 







Lons. 64° 7' W. 


4 


21 
29 
31 




45 37 
38 
37 


30 


14 feet elevation. 










6 22 


10 


100 


30 


to right to Cajjc Kesolution. 




33 


30 


35 


30 




23 


10 




20 






37 




35 




Lat. 61° 31'.3 N. 


27 
28 


40 
50 


99 


50 
40 


























29 


40 




30 




8 


42 

42 


16 
39 


28 3 
27 56 




£2- 

12 feet elevation. 

Chron- slow on (}. M. T. l" 31'. 












JULT 31, 1864. 


—Hudson's Steaits. 












Long. 67° 6'.9 W. 


h. m. 


8. 


o 


/ -/ 








August 5, 


1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


4 17 
20 




92 


37 
38 


2Q. 

Artificial horizon. Large sex- 






















25 


30 




39 


tant. 


h. 


ni. 


8. 


' 


" 




31 






40 


Chron. slow on ship's chron. 


4 


25 




44 54 




Q. 


37 






38 


.'>''21"; shin's chron. fast on 




28 


30 


55 




20 feet elevation. 


41 


30 




32 30 


(J. M. T. 2-.6. 




30 




55 






4.) 


_ 




30 






37 




53 




Lat. 6]° 42'.C N. 

] 



HaWs Astronomical Observations^ 1864. 



463 



Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. 



August 5, 1864.— Hudson's Straits— Continued. 


August 11, 1864.— Hudson's Straits— Continued. 


Ii. m. s. 

7 7 20 

9 20 

10 25 


o / " 

36 55 
42 
39 


14 feet elevation. 

Chron. slow on G. M. T. 6" 1».6 

Long. 67° 13' W. 


h. m. 8. 

4 49 45 
57 40 

5 4 10 
6 

12 


o ( /; 
41 43 

46 

47 

48 

47 


£2- 

20 feet elevation. Small sex 
taut. 

Large .sextant. 
Lat. 63° 0'.9 N. 


8 16 12 
17 50 

19 10 

20 20 

21 20 


29 54 
44 
34 
26 
20 


4 54 20 

5 20 
10 10 
14 


41 49 
50 
50 
49 


August 6. 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


7 31 25 

32 25 

33 23 

40 27 

41 30 

42 35 

43 30 


35 30 
25 
20 

34 45 
40 
35 
30 


h. m. 8. 
3 7 10 
3 10 30 


1 It 

42 16 
21 


20 feet elevation. 
Long. 67° 59'. 3 W. 

Chron. .slow on G. M. T. 6" 9'. 

Lat. 61° 45' N. 

Ship on course NW. by W. 

3 knots per hour. 
3-45 changed course to NE. 


4 26 
31 


44 36 
36 


August 14, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


h. m. 8. 
5 35 

36 45 

38 


o f n 

43 
43 

iO Ka AK 


17 feet elevation. 
Lat. 60° 58'.2 N. 


August 8, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


h. m. 8. 
2 37 30 


o / // 
38 57 


20 feet elevation. 

Chron. slow on (t. M. T. 6"35». 
Ship'.s course N. 10 W., true. 

3 knots per hour. 
Lat. 62° 14'. 3 N. 
Long. 69° 46'.9 "W. 

O to left to iceherg. Iceberg 
to left to North Bluff 640 34'. 
North Bluff by C. N. 40' E. 

Var. 57°.9 W. 




August 15, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


4 14 30 
24 7 

5 7 
12 
15 


43 20 
27 
25 
8 
5 


h. m. s. 
5 34 
37 


, „ 

42 7 

7 30 


20 feet elevation. 
Lat. 61° 32'.3 N. 


2 37 30 


93 47 


August 16, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


h. m. 8. 
5 33 

35 

37 

43 

46 

48 30 


o / // 
40 59 
41 

3 

6 


20 feet elevation. 


August 9, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. 


h. m. s. 
4 7 30 
11 20" 


/ // 

42 17 
23 


20 feet elevation. 
Chapel, observer. 

Hall, observer. 
Lat. 62° 43'.8 N. 


6 Lat. 62° 14'. 1 N. 


August 17, 1864.— Hudson's Bat. 


9 10 
15 

25 40 
33 
39 


21 
29 
39 
45 
46 


b. m. 8. 
6 29 


1 II 

40 23 


12 feet elevation. 

Chron. slow on G. M. T. 8'" 36'. 
Lat. 62° 3'.1 N. 
Long. 88° 19' W. 


8 53 25 
55 30 


30 55 
30 43 


August 11, 1864.— Hudson's Straits. | 


li. m. 8. 
2 43 25 

44 35 

46 

51 10 

52 30 

53 30 


o / /; 
33 58 
36 4 

10 

32 

38 

43 


18 feet elevation. 

Ships steering NW. by N. 


August 18, 1864.— Hudson's Bat. 


h. m. 8. 

4 18 30 

29 20 

33 20 

34 35 


o / // 

37 32 

38 18 
30 
35 


20 feet elevation. 

Chron. slow on G. M. T. 8" 45". 

Long. 89° 59' W. 



454 HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1864. 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



August 18, 1864.— Hudson's Bay — Continued. 


August 26, 1864.— Depot Island— Continued. 


h. m. 


R. 


O 1 II 




h. 


m. 


8. 


/ // 




5 47 




40 30 


Q- 


3 


25 




61 40 


and ]) . 


54 


30 


33 






26 


30 


61 39 




56 
58 


40 
25 


32 
31 






















6 3 




30 




3 


38 


5 


81 11 


2 5-- 


4 


30 


30 






47 


35 


79 44 




5 


30 


29 














6 


15 


28 


Lat. 620 8'.8N. 




























3 


41 
45 


55 


63 
63 38 


2E!. 












August 21, 1864.— Depot Island. 










and 5 . 


h. m. 


s. 


o / /' 




3 


42 


20 


61 33 30 


5 44 




75 38 


2Qi. 




43 


19 


33 




50 




38 30 


SmaU sextant J on 31', off 32'. 




44 


55 


31 30 


Long. 89° 19'.8 W. 


54 
6 


30 


42 30 
41 


















6 
10 




35 
32 








August 27, 1864.— Depot Island. 


13 




28 












5 53 

57 


~ 


75 42 
42 30 


2Q. 

Larpe sextant; on 32', off 30' 


h. 
8 


m. 
39 


8. 


/ // 
28 


7 feet elevation. 


6 3 

8 


30 
30 


38 
34 30 


30". 


















12 




30 


Lat. 63° 46'.9 N. 

2Q. 






August 30, 1864.— Eowe's "Welcome. 


8 40 


25 


60 15 


h. 


m. 


s. 


' // 




42 









3 


10 


26 


27 32 


£2- 


43 


2b 


59 45 






14 


15 


49 


7 feet elevation. 


48 


24 


58 54 






Ifi 


45 


28 


Vessel's course N., 2i knots 


49 


45 


40 


Cbron. slow on G. M. T. g™ 16-. 




39 


53 


29 40 


per hour. 


50 


50 


29 






42 


10 


51 


Chron. slow on G. M. T. 45'. 


59 


40 


56 55 






43 


20 


54 




9 I 


30 


35 




4 


14 




31 45 




2 


45 


23 


Long. 89° 45' N. 




16 


18 


49 




10 6 


50 


43 45 


N. 67° W. by C. 




IS 




54 


Long. 87° 57'.5 "W. 


10 


20 


43 


N. 60° 30' AV. by C. 
Var. 41°.5 W. 




































5 


35 
41 
51 
53 


15 
30 


34 11 
14 

14 30 
13 30 


a 






August 25, 1! 


564.— Depot Island. 
















h. m. 
5 53 










58 


30 


12 






72 56 


2 a 


6 


5 


20 


9 30 


Lat. 64° 18'. IN. 


58 
6 


30 
45 


57 
55 30 




















5 




51 








August 31, 1864.— FntsT Encampment. 


9 




46 30 


Lat. 630 47'.5N. 








11 


bO 


42 30 




















li. 


m. 


s. 






9 6 


20 


52 49 


Chrou. slow on G. M. T. : 


5 


36 


30 


33 31 


Q. 


8 


22 


27 


"lU-louF." 10" 38».5 




39 




33 


4 feet elevation. 


9 


45 


12 


Jlonticello 11 40 .2 




44 


13 


35 


LC. +45". 


38 


5 


40 45 


Uall's 10 10.9 

Moan 10 49.9 

Lone. 89° 58'. 




47 
49 
.57 


30 
30 


34 
33 
32 30 


Chron. slow on G. M. T. 56'.5. 


40 


45 


13 


N. 82° W. by C. 




59 




31 30 


Lat. 64° 34'. 9 N. 


43 


20 


45 41 


N.81°W. 
Var. 330.9 W. 






























Sbptemdeb 1, 1864.— First Encampment. 






August 26, If 


!64.— Depot Island. 


1). 


m. 


R. 


1 1 










/ // 




h. m. 


H. 


/ II 




3 


47 


15 


58 34 


LU-I-1'30". 


3 13 


25 


58 55 


2Q. 




50 




51 


14 


5 


59 1 






51 


2H 


59 4 


Chron. slow on G. If. T. 1"" 3'.5. 


14 


23 


59 6 






53 


5 


10 


1 



Hairs Astronomical Observations, 1864. 

Astronomical ohservationa made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



455 



Septemuer 1, 1864.— First Encampment— Continued. 



h. m. 8. 

5 42 30 
46 45 
51 33 
54 20 

6 4 

8 40 



1 

2 57 

3 56 

4 57 

6 40 

7 37 

8 35 

9 36 
12 48 
15 18 
17 53 



66 18 
19 30 
18 30 
18 30 
14 
5 



46 30 

20 

10 



45 30 

20 

10 



44 22 

43 56 
26 



2Q. 



Lat. 64° 36'.3 N. 



2Q- 

I. C. + 1' 30". 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5''8"°19«. 



Long. 87° 32' "W. 



September 3, 1864.— Secokd Encampment. 



55 55 

57 25 

58 35 
6 27 



34 12 

33 53 

38 

5 



32 



40 



2£2- 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'" 8" 35*. 

O N. 61° "W. by C. 
Long. 87° 13'.5 "W. 
Var. 47°.2 "W. 



September 4, 1864.— Second Encampment. 



h. m. 


8. 


o 


/ 


4 16 


17 


41 


3 


18 


9 




44 


20 


2 


40 


18 


21 


20 


41 


8 



m. 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 8'°43>. 
Long. 87° 13'.5 "W. 



September 5, 1864. — Second Encampment. 



h. m. s. 
3 49 5 



45 



L C. + 1' 30". 
Long. 87° 16'.2 W. 



September 6, 1864. — Second Encampment. 



m. s. 

31 45 

36 47 

41 20 
48 

56 45 



44 48 
50 47 



62 



9 30 
10 
10 

8 30 



61 58 



62 17 
03 



2(2. 



I. C'. - 3' 30". 
Lat. 64° 50' K. 



September 8, 1864. — Second Encampment. 



2^. 

I. C. + 1' 30'. 

Chron. slowonG. M. T. 5''9"15'. 

2e. 

2 0. 

Long. 87° 17'. 5 W. 



September 9, 1864.— Third Encampment. 



b m. 8. 



32 
35 

36 27 
38 



60 2 30 



44 49 
20 

45 9 
44 55 



I. T. + 1' 30". 
Lat. 64° 46' N. 

2Q. N. 88° AV. by C. 

2i2- 

2C7. 

2 C7. N. 87° W. by C. 

Long. 87° 14'. 5 W. 

Var. 43°.2 "W. 



September 10, 1864.— Third Encampment. 



h. m. s. 

9 58 34 

10 22 

2 08 



10 9 18 48 31 



47 



15 
30 



37 24 
41 2 
44 7 



36 19 
40 29 
43 34 



3 29 5 

29 35 

30 13 



3 33 
34 37 
36 37 



59 17 
16 
15 



59 18 
17 
16 



44 30 
25 
20 



43 52 
35 

17 



2B. 

I. C. - 22".5. 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5' 9"° 29'. 



2 £2. 
2Q. 



I. T. - 22".5. 
Lat. 64° 46'.6 N. 



212. 

L C. - 22".5. 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5' 9"»31' 



2 Q. K. 880.5 W. by C. 
2 £!. N. 88° W. by C. 
2 (^. N. 870.5 W.'by C. 
Long. 87° 13'.7 W. 
Var. 42°. 9 W. 



September 14, 1864.— Third Encampment. 



h. m. 
37 



39 25 

42 15 

44 25 

45 43 



56 14 45 
14 

12 15 

11 45 

11 30 



2(3. 

I. C. - 53". 



Lat. 64° 46'.4 N. 



456 



Hairs Astronomical Observations, 1864. 



Astronomical observations made duriny the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



Septembeu 17, 1864.— Third Excampmext. 


October 3, 1864.— Fourth Encampment. 


h. m. 

2 38 
39 
41 


s. 

50 
50 


' // 
46 

45 45 
45 30 


2Q. 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 10"" 27'. 

Long. 87° 13'.9 "W. 


h. 

2 
3 


m. 

59 

1 

3 

6 

10 

12 

13 

17 


8. 

50 
38 
23 
55 
24 
5 
48 
10 


o / // 

30 2Q. 

29 45 

30 



28 30 S. 89° W. by C. 

15 

. »S. 90° W. by C. 
27 30 N. 89° W. by C. 

Chron. fast on L. M. T. 35™ 7'. 
Var. 4G0.1 W. 


September 20, 


1864.— Fourth Excampmext. 


li. ni. 
3 46 


s. 
27 


/ " 

33 30 


2 £2. 

Long, a.ssuraed 87'^ 16'.9 "W. 

ChroD. fast on L M. T. 37°' 52». 


October 8, 1864.— Fourth Encampment. 


September 28, 


1864.— Fourth Excampment. 


h. 
2 


ni. 

30 
31 
32 
33 
33 


8. 
23 
50 
35 
12 
54 


1 II 

29 45 
35 
30 
25 
20 


2Q. 

Chion. fast on L. M. T. 3'' 4"- 17». 


h. m. 
11 26 

28 
29 


8. 

43 
11 
53 


/ 

43 37 

43 

49 


30 
15 


n.-v. ■ 

Cbron. fast on L. M. T. Se™ 9'. 


October 9, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. 


September 29, 


1864.— Fourth Encampment. 


h. 




m. 
28 
32 


8. 

10 
50 


O / /' 

36 51 30 
48 45 


2Q. 

Lat. 64° 46'.7 N. 


h. ni. 

22 
25 
28 
31 
34 
37 
39 


a. 
10 
50 
42 
15 

37 


/ 
44 35 
35 
35 
35 
33 
32 
29 


15 
30 
30 
30 
45 
15 
45 


2 0. 

I. 0. - 15". 

Lat. 64° 46'. 3 N. 

2 Q. S. 81° W. by C. 

S. 83° W. b'v C. 

S. 84° W. by C. 
Var. 40O.4 W. 


October 16, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. 


h. 

2 


m. 
28 
30 
33 


s. 
55 
55 


o / '/ 
23 45 

30 

15 


2 £}. S. 78° W. by C. 

S. 79° W. by C. 

Chron. fast on L. M. T. 32°' 48". 

Tar. 44°.9 AV. 


2 38 
48 
52 


57 
12 
10 


35 59 

34 49 

18 


45 
15 


October 17, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. 


October 1, 1864. — Fourth Encampment. 


h. 



m. 
19 

24 
28 


S. 
15 

45 


o / // 
30 57 
56 30 
54 


2Q. 

Lat. 64° 46' N. 

Chron. fast on L. M. T. 32" 28'. 


h. m. 

10 37 
40 
42 


s. 
32 

37 


o / // 
37 30 
45 
38 


2Q. 

Sextant ont of onlcr. 

2 12- 

Lat. 04° 46'.6 N. 

2 0. 


3 


12 


48 


17 12 30 


44 
46 

48 


48 

38 

5 


38 8 
18 
26 


30 






1 
October 18, 1864. — Fifth Encampment. 1 


h. 
11 


m. 

46 


s. 
11 


o / // 
58 


2:2- 

Chrnn. fast on L. M. T. 32'"11»; 
till n Ions. 83° 5'.5 W. (not 
reliable). 




43 1 


30 


3 
4 


51 
59 
4 


21 

1 
1 


87 52 30 
55 
55 


2 35 
37 
39 


45 

43 
52 


34 45 
30 
15 





HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1865. 457 

Astronomical oiservatiom made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



OcTOBEB 27, 1864.— Fifth ENCAiiPMENT. 



h. m. s. 

7 37 



S. 15° E. by C. 

Chron. shows L. M. T. Sun 
about 6' high, to allow for 
elevation of place of obser- 
vation. 

Var. 43°.2 W. 



November 3, 1864.— Fifth Encampment. 



April 25, 1865.— Ninth Encampment— Continued. 



m. 


s. 


8 


10 


12 


25 


16 





56 19 
55 42 



2Qi. On 30', off 33'. S. 83o"W. 

byC. 
S.84^A,V.byC. 
S. 85o\y.byC. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 4" 37». 
Var. 20°. 4 ^Y. 



May 3, 1865. — Thirteenth Encampment. 



h. m. 
11 43 



19 31 
30 



2Q. 



December 25, 1864.— Sixth Encampment. 



h. m. s. 



Elevation 30 feet. 
Lat. 64° 45'.8 N. 



April 11, 1865.— Seventh Encampment. 



11 


51 


35 


67 


1 


30 




55 


23 











59 




66 


52 


30 





3 






45 




• 


5 


10 




43 




2 


55 




47 


21 






59 


30 


46 


44 


30 


3 


1 


33 




22 





2 £2- On 30', off 25'. 
Refraction great. 



Lat. 64° 43'.2 W. (?) 



2 £2. On 39', off2.V. 

Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 26" 12' 



April 16, 1865.— Eighth Encampment. 



h. m. 8. 

H 25 30 

30 10 

36 10 

41 5 

45 10 



2 33 10 

35 4 

36 35 



70 15 
16 30 
17 

15 30 
15 



53 54 
34 
19 



212. On 31' 30", off 33'. 



Lat. 64° 55' N. 



2 £3. On 32' off 30'. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 27"» 6'. 



April 25, 1865.— Ninth Encampment. 



h. 


m. 


a. 


11 


41 






46 


40 




57 


5 


u 


6 


30 


u 


51 







12 


25 



o 


, 


„ 


76 


3 

8 






11 


30 




5 




76 


12 
5 


45 



2 I2- On 30', off 33'. 
Lat. 65° 1'.2 N. 
2Q. 



h. m. 8. 

10 16 50 

20 40 

29 40 

32 15 



11 29 45 

35 45 

44 35 

47 10 

48 50 
54 20 
.57 20 

3 



75 4 
28 

76 20 

33 30 



80 







40 

6 45 

9 35 

12 10 

14 30 



2 49 47 
52 40 
57 50 



1 
10 
22 
22 
22 
22 
22 

20 30 
19 
15 
14 
11 
08 



64 32 

5 

64 14 



213. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 2" 5». 



2 0. 



Lat. 65° 23'.3 N. 



2 £3. N.87°l.VW. bvC. 

N. 86° W. bv C. 

N. 84° 30' W. by C. 
Var. 40°.9 W. 



May 5, 1865. — Thirteenth Encampment. 



h. m. 

8 40 



diameter above sea horizon. 
N. 1° E. by C. 



May 6, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. 



h. m. s. 

8 44 



O diameter above sea horizon. 
N. 3° E. by C. 



May 7, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. 



h. m. s. 

11 48 34 

52 55 

56 30 

59 40 

2 30 

5 05 







5 6 
8 26 
10 48 



82 38 30 
39 30 
40 
40 
38 
35 30 



63 50 

17 

62 52 



2Q. 



2 0. N. 76i° W. bv C. 
N. 75i° AV. by C. 
N. 75° W. by C. 



458 HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1865. 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. 



Mat 8, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. 



May 27, 1865.— Fourteenth Encampment. 



h. m. 
9 1 



TD on the horizon. 



Mat 12, 1865. — Thirteenth Encampment. 



h. m. 

8 55 

2 49 

52 

55 



68 



30 



h. m. 


.s. 


4 23 


48 


26 


20 


31 


5 



56 

55 30 
54 30 



2 £2- On32',off31i'. 
N. 59° W. by C. 
N. 580.5 W. by C. 
N. 57".5 W. by C. 
Var. 410.1 W. 



2 GJ. S. 5JO E. bv C. 

2 £2- N. 78° 30' W. by C. 

20- N. 77° 15' W. by C. 

2 0. N. 76° 15' W. by G. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 4-" 8'.5. 

Lat. 65° 2i' N. 

Var. 47°.9 "W. 



May 28, 1865.— Fourteenth Encampment. 



h. m. s. 
11 48 

54 20 

59 
3 15 



Mat 20, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. 



m. 


s. 


56 




58 


37 


1 


20 


4 


20 


7 


15 


11 


12 


14 


14 


17 


15 


19 


30 


22 


22 


25 


17 



70 48 
21 

69 53 
53 
53 

68 4 
4 
4 

66 35 
35 
35 



2 Q. On 32' 30", oflF 30'. 

2Q. 

2Ci. 

20- 

2 0. 

2Q. 

2e. 

2 0. 
2Q- 
20- 
2 0. 
Chron. slow on L. M. T. 5"42'.8. 



11 51 

55 30 


4 30 



11 10 

12 32 

13 58 
30 30 



Mat 21, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampment. 



91 53 
52 
50 
45 



91 50 
49 30 
48 30 
45 



72 
71 45 

30 
70 30 

15 



66 53 



2 0. On 31' 30", off 31'. 

2 Q. On 33', off 30'. 
Lat. 65° 23' K. 



2 Q. On 31' 30", off 31'. 

The compass often varies 1°, 
2°, and sometimes 6° or 8° 
in a few minutes, althimgh 
located in one spot and un- 
touched. 

N. 55° W. by C. 

Chron. slow on L. M T. 7" 53". 

Var. 58°.3 W. 



m. 


s. 


37 


so 


41 


30 


45 


30 


48 




51 




53 


30 


.55 


30 


07 




58 


40 





30 


2 


10 



15 


" 


17 




17 


30 


18 




18 


30 


20 




18 




17 


30 


17 




16 




15 





Mat 30, 1865. — Fourteenth Encampment. 



2 Q. On 33', off 31'. 



Lat. 65° 23'. 5 N. 



h. m. 


8. 


11 38 


40 


43 




48 


30 


51 




53 




56 




58 


40 



92 25 
28 

29 30 

29 30 

26 30 

25 30 



2 Q. On 34', off 30'. 



Lat. 65° 22'. 7 N. 



May 31, 1865.— Fifteenth E\xampment. 



Mat 25, 1865.— Thirteenth Encampjiest. 



h. 


m. 


s. 


5 


35 
38 


30 




40 


30 


5 


49 






50 


15 




51 


22 




52 


40 




53 


55 



40 47 30 
47 
47 



38 

37 45 

30 

15 





2 Q. On 32'.5, off 30'. 

2e- 

2 0. 



2 Q. On 32', off 31'. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 6" 34*. 



h. m. 

4 1 
2 
3 
4 
5 



60 



30 
15 


45 
30 
15 





2Q. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 9" 22'. 



June 1, 1865.— Fifteenth Encampment. 



May 26, 1865.— Fourteenth Encampment. 



h. m. B. 

4 57 



48 51 30 



1.(3'. - 30". 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 7"° 38'. 



h. m. 


a. 


11 42 


25 


47 


50 


40 


20 


52 




53 


40 


55 


30 



93 6 30 
10 
10 

9 

8 

6 



30 



2 Q. On 34', off 30'. 



Lat. 05° 19'.3 N. 



HaWs Astronomical Observations^ 1865. 469 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. 



June 1, 1865.— riiTSENTH ENCAiirMENT— Continued. 



m. 


8. 


15 


42 


17 




18 


23 


2G 


17 


27 


37 


28 


56 


,S4 




.35 


20 


36 


47 



70 30 

15 



68 30 

15 



67 

66 45 

30 



2 a. On 31' 30" off 30' ?0". 
Cbion. slow on L. M. T. 10" 1". 



June 5, 1865.— Sixteenth Encampment. 



h. lU. 8. 

11 37 35 

41 30 

47 50 

4'J 10 
52 

55 05 



27 

1 40 
4 25 



94 12 

11 

10 

9 



11 


44 

47 




94 


6 
6 


4 


55 


10 


50 


26 




56 


20 




12 




57 


23 


49 


58 



49 15 



48 26 



2 Q. On 33' 30", off 30'. 



Lat. 65° 16'.2 N. 



June 10, 1865.— Between Nineteenth and Twentieth 
Encampsients. 



2Q. 



2 Q. On 33', off 30'. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 15™ 17» 



2Q. On 31' 30", off 31'. 



June 6, 1865.— Seventeenth Encampment. 



h. ni. 8. 

9 14 17 

15 56 

17 43 



11 59 15 

2 30 

3 55 

5 10 



15 
30 



94 1 

93 57 

56 

53 



2Q. On 34', off 30'. 
Long, assumed 5'' 48". 
Chron. slow on L. M. T. 17"" 30' 



2 a On 34', off 30'. 
Lat. 65° 22'.8 N. 



June 7, 1865.— Between Seventeenth and Eighteenth 
Encampments. 



h. m. 8. 
9 55 

57 

58 20 



11 34 
38 



45 
50 
52 30 






f 


„ 


43 


58 


30 


44 


5 






9 


15 


47 


7 


30 




8 


30 




7 


30 




7 






5 





Elevation 5 feet. 
I.e. -7".5. 



Elevation 5 feet. 
I. C. -7". 5. 

Made on land, ^hich was 
reached at 10'' 55'". 



h. m. 
11 34 



37 30 
41 40 
45 



11 36 10 
40 



47 



30 



47 

47 



i 



levation 5 feet. 
I. C. - 3'. 
Near a small island, from 1 J to 

2 miles from mainland. 

Elevation 5 feet. 
Lat. 65° 50'.5 N. 



June 13, 1865. — Between Twentieth and Twenty-first 
Encampments. 



h. m. 
11 32 



35 

36 30 
39 
41 
43 50 



50 


30 


49 


15 


49 




48 


55 


48 


30 


46 


30 



Elevation 5 feet. 



Lat. 66° 11'.7 N. 



June 14, 1865.— Twentt-fiest Encampment. 



h. m. 


8. 


11 24 




26 


26 


29 




30 


23 


31 


30 


33 


30 


35 


10 


37 


12 


38 


30 


41 


15 


42 


30 


44 


30 


45 


45 


4 46 


50 


48 


8 


49 


23 


50 


26 


53 


10 


55 


50 



93 38 30? 
36 
37 
38 
39 
39 
37 
36 

35 30 

36 ? 
33 

31 
30 



50 45 
30 
15 



50 



2 Q. On 33' 30", off 30'. 
Small sextant. 



Sextant out of order. 



Lat. 66° 14'.7 N. 



2Q. 

Large sextant. 



2Q. On 34', off 30'. Small sext't. 

2e. 

20. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 29-° 25' 



June 21, 1865. — Hued's Channel. 



m. 8. 
58 40 



1 45 

3 40 
12 

i:! 30 

15 15 



11 39 

41 25 

43 50 

46 15 
50 

51 50 



90 



46 

2 

12 
58 

5 
12 30 



94 1 30 
93 57 

56 

52 

45 

43 



2 Q. On 34', off 30'. 



2Q. 



Lat. 66° 10' N. 



460 



HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1865. 



Antronomical obsenalions made during the years 1864-'69 — Coutinued. 



June 25, 1865.— Twekty-fiest Enxampment. 



ni. a. 

46 20 

47 42 

49 8 

50 22 

57 2 

58 27 
1 5 



70 

69 45 
30 
15 

08 

07 45 
15 




2 O. On 32', off 30' 30" 
N. 69° W. by C. 

N. 68° W. by C. 
N. 00° W. by C. 



N. 05° AV. bv C. 
Chr. slow on L. M. T. 54" 50'. 5. 

Var.44°.5 W. 



Junk 29, 1865.— Twentt-fibst Encampment. 



ni. 


.«!. 


1 


25 


4 


40 


6 


30 


8 




9 


30 


11 




12 


30 


13 


30 


15 




18 




41 


20 


42 


57 


44 


7 


50 


32 


52 


15 


53 


20 



93 28 
28 



28 30 

30 

27 

25 

20 

26 

25 

23 30 



70 21 



69 47 

68 35 30 

10 



2Q. On 34', off 29'. 
Observation indifferent ; 
tant out of order. 



Lat. 66° 1.5'.5 N. 



2 0. On 34' 30", off 29'. 
Chron. slow on L. M. T. 57"' 28'. 



July 3, 1865. — Twenty-second Encampment. 



40 

15 
10 I 
30 
30 



92 



2 45 45 
48 30 
51 22 



69 30 
69 30 
69 30 



2(2. On 34' 30", off 28'. 
A <lifferent chronometer from 
that i)reviously used. 



Lat. 06° 19' N. 



2 £2- On 34' 30", off 28'. 

2e. 

2 0. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. .54"' 51". 

The.se time olisiTvations made 
J of ii mile S. 75^ E. from 
where noon observations 
were made. 



July 13, 1865. — Twenty-second Encampment. 



2Q. On 33', off 30'. 



Lat.OO'JlO'.tiN. 



h. m. 


B. 


11 57 


.30 





20 


4 


30 


7 


23 


10 




10 


.50 


11 


43 


12 


35 


14 





o 


, 


„ 


90 


24 






24 


30 




25 






25 






24 


30 




24 






24 






23 


30 




22 





July 13, 1865.— Twenty-secon-d Encampment— Cont'd. 



h. m. 
11 52 



3 23 12 
24 40 
26 10 



23 45 

26 

25 

24 



70 30 
15 




2(0. On32'.30, off30'30" 



2 £2. On 32'. 30, off .30'. 
Chron. slow on L. M. T. 1" 14'. 



July 18, 1865.— Twenty-second Encampment. 



h. m. s. 

10 34 30 

36 40 

38 50 



10 42 25 

43 55 

44 47 



10 48 
50 50 
53 50 
56 
57 40 



2 20 
4 



11 7 35 

9 5 

10 10 



11 13 30 

16 !>0 

19 25 

22 15 
24 



11 30 

35 20 
40 25 



37 52 

■39 15 

40 38 
42 

43 23 



73 43 
28 
11 



85 7 
15 
19 



53 
52 
51 
49 
49 



15 

15 I 

i 



70 10 
3 
09 49 45 



2]). On 32' 30", off 30' 30". 



2 0. 



Ne.arest limbs and & . 



Long. 85° 29' W. 



215. 



1 
87 1 45 I 2 Q. 
30 , 
10 30 



50 42 
40 



Nearest limbs and 3 . 



39 45 
37 15 
30 15 



50 33 30 I Ne.irest limbs and J) . 
31 15 I 
29 30 



88 46 



15 

45 
30 
15 



2 meridian altitude. 
Lat. 00° 19'. 9 N. 



2 0. 



July 23, 1865. — Twenty-second Encampment. 



m. 


s. 


50 


47 


.52 


10 


53 


28 



62 

61 45 

61 30 



2 0. On 32' 30", off 30' 30". 
Curon. slow on L. M. T. 3"' 10'. 



EaWs Astronomical Observations , 1865. 



461 



Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69— Continued. 



July 28, 1865.— Twextt-becond Encampment. 


August 5, 1865.— Tw-exty-secoxd Enxajipment. 


h. m. s. \ , „ 




h. m. 8. 


o. / // 


1 


3 20 


65 15 


2Q. On 32' 30", off30':'0". 


9 16 30 


68 15 


2 T3- Ind. cor. 1'. ' 


21 27 





Chion. slow on L. M. T. 4" 21>. 


20 


68 15 


20- 


22 55 


64 45 




23 30 


68 15 


2Q. 




1 


Kearest limbs and a . 






Chron. slow on L. 11. T. 5" 50'. 




1 .- . 


3 28 45 6» 6 






32 8 7 30 




11 51 35 


80 39 (?) 


2 0. 


34 55 8 15 




56 30 


37 


Ko ind. cor. given. TT. S. C. S. 






10 


37 


sextant very mucb out of 












order: had index cor. of 30" 


3 39 48 


61 45 


2C!- 




on Aug. 2. 


41 25 


30 






Lat. 66° 18'.3. K. 


42 34 


15 









August 8, 1865.— Twextt.thibd Exx-ampmest. i 






3 45 53 

48 40 


69 13 30 
13 45 


Kearest limbs and p . 


1 








51 35 


14 45 




h. m. 8. 


/ /( 










11 42 30 
46 30 


39 12 30 
14 45 


Sea horizon. Eye, 5i feet. 






3 54 61 


59 


2i2. 


50 


15 45 




57 30 


58 30 




53 35 


16 




58 54 


15 




57 35 


16 30 


Long. 5i> 43"" 20' W. by D. R. 


4 10 







2 35 


17 15 










5 50 


16 45 












15 




4 51 40 


69 36 45 


Ifearest limbs and j) . 


14 40 


14 




56 36 


39 




17 30 


13 




5 1 40 


40 45 


Nearest limbs and B . i 


20 8 


11 


Lat. 66° 31'.3 If. 


5 6 45 


69 42 30 


August 15, 1865.— Twenty-third E.nxampment. 


9 15 
11 35 


43 45 

44 15 








1 - -- 1 






i 


h. m. s. 
3 .09 10 


/ 11 

24 6 


Sea horizon. 






5 14 5 69 45 


Nearest limbs and D . 


4 1 20 


23 53 


17 46 15 




3 8 


44 


Dip — 2'. 


19 55 46 45 




i 




Chron. slow on I.. H. T. 6»' 7'. 


August 2, 1865.— Twextv-seco.vd Encampment. \ 

, 1 


August 20, 1805— TwE.NTY-THn!D E.n-cajitment. 


b. m. 8. 


o / // 




1 





3 8 


64 45 


2(2. On 32' 30", off 30' 30". 


h. m. 8. 1 o ' " 
3 38 45 ! 24 10 
39 55 i 5 




9 30 
11 


30 
15 


Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 5" 28». 


Sea horizon. 


12 30 







40 45 1 


Height of eye, 9 feet. 


14 


63 45 




41 47 1 23 55 


Chron. slow on L. il. T. S" 10'. 








42 40 50 

44 25 40 

45 20 1 35 




3 18 30 
20 


63 

62 45 


2Q. On 32' 30", off 31' 30". 
Cliron. slowon L. il. T. 5"»12». i 
Bad sextant. 




21 30 


30 


i 






23 i 15 




3 52 30 


23 


Q- 


24 30 ; 




53 30 


22 55 


Height of eye, 5 feet. 




1 


54 25 50 


Chron. slow on L. 11. T. v"' 27'. 


August 3, 1865.— Twexty-secoxd Excampmest. 


August 24, 1865— Twenty-third E.\cajip.\iest. 






3 12 17 63 30 


2 0. On 32' 30", off 30' 30". 






13 40 15 
15 12 
19 35 62 15 


Cbron. slowon L.Jl. T. 5" 42». ' 


3 53 10 21 30 
54 15 i 25 


i3. 

Horizon 3 miles off. 


21 5 




55 10 20 


Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 8" 14'. 


22 33 61 45 
26 55 












2 0. 


4 4 15 20 30 
5 55 20 


Horizon 3 miles off. 


28 32 


61 45 






7 15 


Chron. slow on L. 11. T. 8" 9". 















462 



HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 



Astronomical ohscrvafions made during ihe years 18G4-'G9 — Continued, 



August 25, 1865.— Twenty-thikd Encampment. 



h. m. 


s. 


H 52 




54 


53 


57 


7 





30 



/ 


,, 


33 55 




55 


30 


55 




54 


30 



Sua horizon. 

Height of eye, 10 feet. 

Lat. 60° 28'.9 N. 



August 27, 1865. — Twenty-fouhth Encampment. 



h. ni. s. 
10 20 
12 45 



3 13 15 

22 20 



33 



5 30 
3 45 



24 
23 15 



Sea horizon. 
Heiclitof eve, 5 feet. 
Lat'6(P29'.'3N. 

Sea horizon. 

Land beliiud it, and distant J 

mile. 
Ileiaht of eye, 5 feet. 
Cliron. slow on L. M. T. 8" 24'. 



August 28, 1865.— Twenty-fourth Encampment. 



40 



51 
50 



15 



G2- 

Sea horizon. 

Elevation of eye, 5 feet. 

Chron. having stopped is taken 

as 47'" 44» slow on L. M. T. 
Lat. 66° 28'. 6 N. 



October 13, 18C5. — Twe.vty-sixth Encampment. 



h. m. s. 


o / 


" 


11 52 


30 35 


30 


56 


34 


30 


1 


31 


30 



2 Q. On 33', off 31'. 
Lat. 660 31/.4 jj. 



October 14, 1865.— Twenty-sixth Encampment. 



h. 


m. 


s. 


o 


( 


(/ 


1 


41 


7 


24 


15 






43 


35 











46 


15 




23 


45 


1 


50 
.V2 


17 


23 


20 
10 






55 


13 


22 


50 





2Q. On 32' 1.5", off 31' 45". 
Chion. fast on L. M. T. 1-" 53», 



2 n. On 32' l.V. off 31' 4.5". 
Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2» 14'. 



February 7, 1866.— Twentt-bighth Encampment. 



h. m. 


8. 


11 .36 


30 


41 


15 


4.-) 


40 


50 


30 


56 


30 



10 

13 30 



2 Q. On 32' 30", off 31' 30.' 
(0 S. 6U° \V. bv C. 
(.) S. 64° AV. by C. 
(•) H. 65° W. bV C. 
S. 05° (?) Vf. by C. 



February 7, 1866.— Twenty-eighth Encampm't— Cont'd. 



h. m. 

8 



16 
21 

24 50 
28 50 



O ' 


„ 


16 16 


30 


13 




8 


30 


4 


30 








O S. 67° W. by C. 
S. 71° W. by C. 
S. 72° W. by C. 
S. 73° W. bv C. 
S. 73J° "W. by C. 
Var. 65° W. 
Ther. — 35°. 
Lat. 66° 30'. 5 N. 



March 28, 1866.— Twenty-ninth Encampment. 



h. m. 8. 
11 32 



44 
50 



11 35 45 



42 
48 30 



2 33 10 



37 10 
41 10 



52 41 30 

43 30 

42 30 

40 30 



52 48 30 



48 
46 30 



30 11 



38 36 




2 Q. On 32', off 32'. 
Largo sextant. 

Lat. 66° 30'.2 K. 



2 £2- On 37', oif 26'. 

s. 5sj° ^y. bv c. 

S. 60J° W. bv C. 
S. 63° W. by C. 
Lat. 66° 30'.7 N. 

2 Q. On 39', off 26'. 

N. 70° W. bv C. 

N. 69° W. by C. 

N. 68° W. by C. 
Var. 62°.8 W. 
Chron. slow 26"" 45'. 
Eggert chronometer slow on 

G. M. T. 11' lO" 46». 



April 3, 1866. — Twenty-ninth Encampment. 



b. m. s. 

2 51 48 

53 20 

54 50 



40 

39 45 
30 



i.T\ - 15". 

Ward's chron. slow 
onL.M.T 29'" 

Long, assumed h^ 47'" 44' 

\V..slowonG. M. T. 6 16 44" 

Eggert's chron. fast 

onW 5 2 35 

E. .slow on G. M. T. 1 14 sT 

March28 1 10 46 

liay 24 1 42 32 

Loss per day 33'.44 



April 4, 1866. — Thirtieth Encampment. 



ni. 8. 

27 53 

31 23 

34 10 

39 10 

42 15 



2 47 45 

50 45 

52 20 

53 55 
55 25 



58 



41 15 

40 45 

30 

15 




i. C. - 15" 



Lat. 66° 32'.9 N. 



I.X. - 1.5". 

(;hron. slow on G. M.T. 6'' 17"" 

Long. 86° ,50' W. 

0's true az., N. 120° 3'. 5 W. 

r.)'s az. bv (;., N. 51° 30' W. 

Var. 74° 33'. 5. 

Evidently local attraction. 



HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 463 

Astronomical ohseiTations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. 



April 6, 1806.— Thiuty-fibst Encampment. 


April 12, 1866.— Twesty-thied Encampment— Cont'd. 


h. m. B. 
11 54 

57 20 
1 
5 


O 1 II 

59 22 

22 30 
23 

2e 


2 £. On 36', off 28'. 
Lat. 66° 40' N. 


h. 
3 


m. s. 
37 35 
39 
40 27 


' /' 
42 

41 45 
30 


2Q. 

Long. 87° 30' "W. 

0'3 true az. K. 119° 10' 20" W. 

0'.s az. by C. N. 50° 30' W. 

Var. 68° 46'. 3 W. 








AruiL 7, 1866.— Thibty-fibst Ekcampmest. 


Apeil 16, 1866.— Thirty-fourth Encampment. 


h. m. 8. 

3 1 
2 38 
4 17 


1 II 

45 

44 45 
30 


I.^'. - 30". 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'> 52° 10». 

Long. 87^ 4'. 7 W. 

0'8 true az. N. 129= 13' W. 

0's az. by C. 71° W. 

Var. 580 13' ^_ 


h. 
11 




m. s. 
56 30 
59 30 
3 

6 30 
9 30 


c / '/ 

65 54 30 
53 

51 30 
50 
49 


2 0. 
LC. -4'. 

Lat. 67° 4'.2 N. 

1.% - 15". 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 55" 28'. 

Long. 87° 41'.5 W. 

by C. N. 51° W. 

Var. 73° 34' "W. 


3 


12 10 

13 45 
15 15 


48 30 
15 



Apeil 8, 1866.— Thirty-secoxd Encampment. 


h. m. 8. 
11 53 
56 

58 30 
1 30 
4 12 
8 
9 

10 30 

11 45 
14 10 


/ /' 

60 40 
41 
42 
43 
43 

43 30 
43 
41 
40 
38 


f.%.-4'. 

Lat. 66° 44'. 9 K. 

S. 66^ W. by C. 

The last six ob-servatlons not 
good, the horizon-glass be- 
coming loose. 

Lat. place of obs., 66° 45' K. 

Diflf. of lat. of Enc't, 1'.8. 

Lat. Enc't, 66^ 46'.8. 

I. C. - 22". 

Chr. Blow on G. M. T. 5'' 52" 33». 
Long. 87° 16'.7 W 
0's true az. N. 133° 24' W. 
0's az. by C. N. 76° 30' W. 
Var. 56° 54' W. 


Apeil 20, 1866.— Thiety-fifth Encampment. 


h. 
11 




m. 8. 
43 

46 20 
51 50 
57 40 

2 

5 

8 8 
11 45 
15 20 


( II 
68 13 

16 

20 

21 

21 

19 

18 

15 

11 30 


l.t-4'. 

Lat. 67° 13'.9 N. 

2 0. 

I. C. - 15". 

Chr. .slow on G. M. T. 5'' 51" 50'. 

by C. N. 46° W. 

Long. 87° 31' W. 

Var. 76° 38' W. 


2 44 30 
46 17 
48 


48 

47 45 
30 


3 


12 10 

13 45 
15 30 
20 

21 35 
23 10 


51 15 



50 45 



49 45 

30 


Apbil 10, 1866.— Thibty-second Encampment. 


h. m. s. ° ' " 
62 4 


2Q. 

Lat. 66° 47' N. 


1 


April 22, 1866.— Thirty-sixth Encampment. 


h. 
11 




m. 8. 
48 

52 10 

54 50 

57 10 

59 10 

1 45 

4 45 

7 50 

10 


1 II 
69 14 30 

16 

16 30 

17 

17 

16 

15 

14 30 

12 


2Q. ♦ 

Lat. 67° 24'.5 N. 

1 

2 0. 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. S"- 52"' 37'. 

Long. 87° 40'.7 W. 

by C. K. 39° W. 

Var. 84° 20' W. 


Apeil 12, 1866.— Thirty-thied Encampment. 


h. m. 8. 
11 4!) 40 
53 30 
56 

58 30 
1 
4 
7 


O 1 II 

63 11 30 
12 

12 30 
12 30 
12 

11 30 
10 


2Q. 

Lat. 66° 56'.5 N. 

Chron. slow on G. M.T. 5'' 54°'8'. 
Long. 87° 30'. 5 "W. 


3 


15 20 

16 55 
18 25 
20 


51 45 

30 

15 




3 27 10 
28 40 
30 10 


43 45 
30 
15 



^^^ HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 

Astronomical observations made daring the years 1854-'G9— Continued. 



Apml 20, 18CC.— Thietv-seventh Encampment. 



h. m. s. o ' " 
11 51 70 50 

55 50 30 

58 30 51 

3 40 I 47 30 

7 30 I 48 30 

12 42 



2Q On 30', off 34'. 
Very cloudy. 

Lat. 67° 3C'.4 N. 



April 26, 1866.— Thiktv-sevektii Excampment. 



h. 


m. 


s. 





/ 


„ 


11 


53 


20 


71 


'.>7 






59 


10 




27 


30 





3 






26 






8 






24 


30 




12 


20 




21 




11 


55 


40 


71 


30 







2 






30 






6 


35 




27 




4 


17 


50 


43 


15 






20 


35 


42 


45 






22 






30 






23 


20 




15 





2(2. 

I. C. + 1' 45". 

Lat. 67° 36'.9 If. 



2r3- 

I. C. - 30". 

Lat. 67° 36'.8 N". 



I. C. - 30". 



Clir. slow on G. M. T. 5^ 54" 10» 

Long. 87° 7'. 7 W. 

by C. N. 27° 45' W. 

Var. 79° 15' "W. I 



May 16, 1866.— EoRTY-sKTH Encampment. 



li. m. s. 

11 55 8 

57 35 


1 40 
4 



83 31 

31 30 
31 
30 
29 



2Q- 

I. C. + 2'. 

Lat. 07° 8'.e N. 



May 20, 1866.— FOKTY-SEVENTH ENCAMPME.NT. 



h. m. 


s. 


11 49 


35 


53 


17 


58 


35 


2 




5 


10 


9 


15 



85 30 
31 

32 30 
33 
33 
30 30 



2 0- 
LC. 1-2'. 



Lat. 66° 59'. 9 N. 



May 24, 1866.— Fiitieth Encampment. 



May 4, 1866.— Fortieth Encampment. 



h. 


m. 


s. 


o 


/ 


„ 


u 


48 




73 


28 


15 




oO 


20 




18 






51 


35 




14 


15 


4 


18 
20 


40 


44 


45 
30 






21 


20 




15 





2Q, 

L C. - 52". 

Lat. 67° 59'. 9 X. 



212. 

I. C. - 45". 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 6>' 8" 

Long. 88° 18'.7 W. 



li. m. s. 

4 15 45 

19 

21 30 

24 

26 30 



.57 16 

56 36 30 

11 30 
55 41 

11 30 



2B. 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5I' 491" 15 

Lone 80° 50' W. 

by C. N. 41° W. 

Var. 62° W. 



May 30, I860.— Fifty-fiest Encampment. 



25' 



May 15, 1866.— Foety-sixth Encampment. 



li. m 

11 45 



10 

51 10 

.54 35 
57 

59 40 

4 

7 30 

10 45 

14 20 



82 56 

83 2 

:i 

3 
3 
3 
2 

82 56 30 



40 




49 20 


42 


30 


48 50 


45 


30 


17 



I.T. + 2'. 
Cloudy. 



Lat. 07° 8'.3 N. 



90 



20 



3 
5 
6 
5 
2 
59 



212- 

LC.+2'. 

Lat. 66° 30'.3 N. 



10 
10 



30 



2 0. 
LC. + 2'. 



May 31, 1866.— Fifty-eirst Encampment. 



LT;'. 4- 2'. 

("lir. slow on G. M. 
, O by C. N. 29" W 
I Long. 87° 4 1', 7 W. 

Vnr. 70° 38' W. 



T. 5'' 49'" 37 



58 57 

25 

2 

57 38 



LC.'2.5". 



Chr. slow on G. M. T. 5'' 48" 
Long. 86° 34'. 5 W 
by C. N. 40° W. 
Var. 61° 42' W. 



June 3, 1866.— Mouth op Grinnell Eiver. 



h. ni. s. 

11 43 30 

48 20 

52 25 

58 30 

I 40 



91 14 
15 

18 
21 
22 



2 £!■ On 27', off 30' 30" 
Lat. 60° 22'. 8 N. 



HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 465 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'C9 — Continued. 



June 3, 1806.— Mouth of Grinnell Kiveu— Contiuued, 



m. 


s. 


4 




8 


30 


n 


30 


14 


20 


10 


50 



/ 


„ 


91 22 




20 


30 


20 




17 




le 





June 9, 1866.— FiFrr-sECOND Encampment. 



h. m. 8. 

3 54 .57 

57 35 

59 13 



6 20 

8 14 

10 10 



08 10 
67 40 

28 



66 9 

65 51 

24 



1.0. + 30". 

Lat.iise(l06°29'N. 

Chr. slow oil G. M. T. 5'' 32" 31». 

Long. 86° 21'.7 W. 

Hall thinks long, too great, 
and ascribes it to Eggeit's 
chron. not keeping its rate. 

0's true az. N. 112° 10' W. 

© by C. N. 45° 30' W. 

Var. 66° 40' W. 



2Q- 

I. <J. + 30". 

Chr. slow on G. M. T. S"" 32"' 31» 

Long. 86° 22' 15" "W. 



June 10. 1866.— FiFrr-SECoxT) Enc.'Vmpment. 



h. m. 
11 29 



91 28 



31 


35 


35 


30 


34 


10 


43 




48 


43 


92 14 


30 


54 


53 


24 




1 


40 


33 




6 


40 


35 




11 


10 


36 




16 


40 


36 


30 


20 


47 


35 




26 


17 


31 


30 


•M 


7 


25 


30 


36 


47 


18 





45 40 

52 20 
58 

4 17 

9 10 

14 20 

18 40 

23 15 

29 55 

35 35 



4 27 15 

28 30 

29 47 



92 



12 30 
24 

30 30 
37 
40 

40 30 
40 30 
37 30 
31 
24 
8 



62 45 
30 

15 



2Q. LC. +30". 

0S. 51i0W. bvC. 

OS. 52° W. by C. 

S. 52JO W. bv C. 

S. 58° W. by C. 

S. 60° W. by C. 

S. 6^0 W. by C. 

O S. 63J° W. by C. 

O S. 65° W. by C. 

S. 67° W. b'y C. 

S. 68° W. by- C. 

S. 69° W. bv 0. 

S. 701° W. bv C. 

S. 73|^"o W. bv C. 

Chrou. last on L. A. T. 14°' .5". 

Long, nsed 5'' 44'" 4' W. 

Lat. 66° 28'. 9 N. 



June 10, 1866— Fitty-sf.cond Encampment — Continued. 



h. 


m. 


a. 


4 


34 


57 




36 


15 




37 


35 


4 


43 


8 




44 


40 




45 


38 



61 15 



60 45 



.59 38 
20 
10 



2 £2- N". 37° W. by C. 
N. 36° W. bv C. 
N. 35° W. by C. 



2 Q. Small sextant. 
N. 34 W. by C. 
Chron. fast on L. M. T., the 
mcanof 3observat'ns, ]4'".56» 



June 13, 1866.— Eipty-second Encampment. 



h. m. 
11 57 



3 50 

8 
14 15 
19 



20. 



S. ,57° T7. 
S. 59° AV. 
S. 60° W. 
S. 62° \V. 
S. 64° W. 
S. 66° W. 
S. C7.!i° W. 
S. 68° W. 
S. 69J° W. 
O S. 71° W. 
S. 76° W. 
Lat. 66° 27'. 3 



bvC. 
byC. 
bv C. 
by C. 
by C. 
by C. 
bvC. 
byC. 
bvC. 
byC. 
bvC. 
N. 



2 0. 0N.4OOW. byC. 

N. 39° W. by C. 
Var. 65°.4 W. 




10 

13 20 
20 



4 19 50 

21 10 

22 30 



23 12 

24 10 

25 5 



93 2 
5 
4 
2 

92 59 



45 



93 8 



4 
92 57 



62 45 

30 
15 



62 11 

61 48 30 



2 0. 

Chron. fast on L. A. T. 4'" 

Long, used 5^ 44"° 4-' W. 

Lat. 60° 26'.7 N. 



2 0. 
LC.-5'. 

Lat. 66° 28'. 1 N. 



2 0. 

Chron. fast on L. M. T. 5" 



2 0. 

LC.-5'. 

Chron. fast on L. M. T. 5"" 10". 



June 15, 1866.— FiFTYTHmD=Fii'Ty-Fn!ST Encampment. 



h. m. s. 

11 54 45 

59 

3 30 

5 55 

8 15 

10 50 

12 10 

13 50 
18 30 

20 50 

21 45 



7 37 20 

42 22 

43 50 
45 



51 

52 3 
.53 14 



93 10 



93 



12 30 
14 

15 
15 
15 
14 

13 30 
11 30 

9 

7 30 



68 37 

67 40 
24 
10 30 



66 40 
65 52 30 
38 30 



2 0. L C.-4'45". 
0S. 59° W. bv C. 
O S. 61° "\V. bv C. 
S. 62° W b'v C. 
S. 62° "W. b'v C. 
S. 03° W. b'y C. 

S. 64° W. by C. 
S. 65° AV. by C. 
S. 67° W. by C. 

S. 08° W. bv C. 

Chron. fast on L. A. T. 7-" 13'. 

Lat. 66° 29'. 8 N. 



2 0. 

L C.-4' 4.5". K 50° W. by C. 



2 0. 

I.e. -4' 4.5". 

N. 46° "W. by C. 

Var. 62°.3 "W. 



S. Ex. 27- 



-30 



466 HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1866. 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continiiecl . 



June 16, 18C6.— Neaii Beacon Hill. 


June 19, 1866.— Teekeeka. 


li. m. 


s. 


o 


, 


„ 




h. 


m. s. 


/ 


„ 






3 25 


20 


93 


5 




2Q. 


11 


49 20 


93 33 




2 0. 




38 


20 




9 


30 


I. 0. - 4' 45". 




52 10 


35 




I. C. 3' 30". 




41 






13 




Chr. fast oii L. A. T. S"- 51"" 42". 




53 40 


34 




Cbron. slow on L. A. T. 1™ 


4«. 


45 






13 




Eggert's chron. 




55 30 


34 


30 






46 


50 




14 


30 






56 45 


.35 








48 


30 




16 


30 






58 30 


35 


30 






50 


25 




14 


30? 







30 


35 








52 






10 


30 






3 


35 








53 


30 




16 


30 


Lat.66°30'.8N. 




4 15 


35 




Lat. 60° 25'.4 N. 




54 


50 




16 


30 






6 30 


34 


30 






50 






16 








7 40 


34 








58 






18 








10 


Oi; 








59 






15 








11 10 


31 








4 






14 








12 45 


30 








1 
2 


50 
45 




14 
15 


























3 


55 




15 






4 


45 20 


57 3 




2 0. 




5 


5 




14 


30 






47 20 


56 38 




I.C.-3'15". 




7 






13 


30 






48 35 


22 








8 
9 
11 
12 


30 
50 

10 




9 




















7 

7i 
6 
4.J 




0. On 30' 30", off 27'. 


4 


53 40 

54 33 


55 21 
10 




2 0. 

I. (J. - 3' 15". 




13 












55 35 


54 


59 


2 0. I.C. -3'15". 






Ju 


NElO 


1860.— Tor OF Beacoh Hill. 


5 


4 


53 18 
















40 


18 




G N. 24J° \V. bv C. 
2^. N. 23JO w. bV U. 
















b. m. 


s. 


o 


' 


" 






9 18 


18 




2 0. N. 23 W. by C. 




3 35 


20 


73 


10 




212. 










Var. 68°3W. 




38 
37 


40 
50 


72 


58 
44 




I. C. - 3' 30". 
Waid's I'hion. 












1 




















E^mt 31' 3H'" 12" fast on 
Ward's chron. 


5 


17 35 


50 35 


30 


2 0. 
















18 47 


2i 




T. C. - 3' ].->". 














2 0. 




19 42 


10 








3 43 


50 


71 


40 












45 


3 




28 




I. (J. - 3' 30". 


5 


23 50 


49 20 




2 0- 




4G 






10 








24 40 

25 34 


10 

48 


59 


I. C. - 3' 15". 




4 35 


23 


02 


3 




2Q. 




June : 


>9, 1800.- 


FlFrV-SKVENTII E.Nl A.MPJIKST. 




30 


32 


01 


48 




1. C. - 3' 30". 












37 


45 




35 


30 




h. 



m. s. 
11 15 
13 


/ 
93 1 
92 59 


" 


2 0. 

I. T. -f 1' 30". 




























15 


58 




Lat. 60° 25'.2 N. 




4 42 


55 


60 


35 




2Q. 




16 25 


56 


30 






44 


8 




21 




I. C. - 3' 30". 




19 


55 








45 


8 




10 














I. C. + 1' 30". 




5 


41 45 
44 25 


45 37 
5 




























48 


44 21 




Chron. fast on L. A. T. 3». 




4 54 


30 


58 


19 




2 Q. I. C. - 3' 30". 




49 35 


2 


















O N. 34° W. 1)V 0. 
20- N. 33io W. b'v «'. 














57 


20 




10 














59 


53 




19 




2 0. O N. 33° W. by C. 




July 


2, 1860.- 


Fifty-seventh Encaml'ment. 














b. 


111. s. 


o / 


„ 






5 3 


45 


50 


30 




2 i2- i.e.- 3' 30". 


11 


54 .30 


92 40 




i. C'. + 1' 30". 














0N.32J'^ W. bvC. 




55 35 


40 


30 




G 


35 




30 




20- O N. 320W. bvC. 




57 


41 


30 






9 






30 




2 0. CO N. 310 w. by C. 




.58 20 


40 


















. Vur. 64°.6 W. 


i 


59 30 


40 


30 







HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1867. 



467 



Astronomical observations made during the years 18C!-'69 — Contiuued. 



July 2, 1866.— FinT-sEVEJjTH Encampment— Cont'd. 


1 
July 10, 18C6.— Fifty-nintii Encampment. 


b. m. 8. 1 ° ' " 
30 I 92 39 

1 30 : 40 

2 15 , 39 30 

3 20 41 30 

4 25 40 

5 25 38 

7 20 40 

8 35 36 30 

9 45 36 30 
10 40 35 


Lat. 60° 25'.2 N. 

2Q. 

I. c. + r 30". 

2XD'. 

Chron. slow on L. A. T. 2', 


h. 
11 




m. s. 
54 10 

7 20 

8 45 
10 50 
13 30 


' '/ 

91 14 30 
14 
12 
10 
8 


2 Q. On 49', off 14' 30". 
Lat. 66° 29'. 3 N. 

' 2Q. 
L C. - 30". 
Chron. slow on L. A. T. 41». 


4 


47 50 

48 55 
50 


54 17 

4 30 
53 52 


11 16 3 

17 43 

18 39 
21 16 
23 56 


1 

1 47 55 
35 
24 
24 
24 


Jin.Y 20, 1866.— Sixtieth Encampment. 


h. 

11 




m. s. 

56 5 

57 45 
59 12 

41 

2 50 

9 

10 45 

12 37 


C / " 

87 47 
47 
47 

46 30 
4G 
44 
41 
38 


2£!. 

L C. + 1'. 

Lilt. 66° 29'.1 N. 


July 6, 1866. — FiFTy-EioiiTH Encampment. 


h. m. s. 
11 55 45 
57 47 
59 17 
20 
2 
3 
4 10 


1 

o / // 

91 46 30 

46 30 

46 30 

48 

46 30 
46 
46 


2£2- 

I. C. + 2' 30". 

Lat. 66° 31'.5 N. 


August 31, 1866. — Auout three jhles north of Ship's 
Hakbor ISLAN1)S. 


July 7, 1866. — Fifty -ninth Excajipment. 


h. 

8 


m. s. 

48 28 

49 54 
51 20 


O ( II 

44 

43 45 
30 


2 Q. On 31'. off 32' 30". 

Long. 51' 44"' 20' W. 

Chr. fa.st on L. M. T. 5i' 20"' 15». 


li. m. s. 

7 30 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

13 50 

15 

16 

18 


o / '/ 
91 35 

33 

35 30 

35 

33 

33 

31 

30 

30 

28 


2Q. 

I. (J. + 2' 30". 

Lat. 66° 30'.9 N. 


September 1, 1866.— About three miles north of Ship's 
Harbor Islands. 


h. 
5 


m. s. 
3 55 
16 15 
18 13 
22 

26 10 
37 35 


O ' '/ 

02 46 
53 
53 
54 
52 
43 


2 Q. On 30', off 33' 30". 
Lat. 660 29'.9 N. 


July 9, 1866.— Fifty-ninth Encampment. 


h. TO. s. 

8 13 20 
14 50 
16 20 


O / " 

66 36 30 
51 

67 9 


2Q. 

I. C. - 30". 

Chron. slow on L. A. T. 38«. 

I. C. - 30". 

2i2. 

I. C. - 30". 

Lat. ee'' 28'.2 If. 
Refraction great. 


April 27, 1867.— Sixty-fifi-h Encampment. 


8 22 10 
23 lU 
24 


68 10 
20 
31 


h. 
11 




m. s. 

35 

38 

39 40 

41 

23 

25 30 


O 1 II 

74 21 

18 

17 

16 

74 7 

3 


2 O. Ou 39', off 25'. 

Long. 51' 44"> 20». 
Heremovedchron. forward 36'". 

Lat. 66^ 2C N. 

2Q. On 38', off 26'. 
Chron. slow ou L. M. T. 1~'. 


11 54 25 

56 30 

59 20 

40 

1 50 

3 

4 37 
G 25 


91 15 30 
15 30 
15 30 
15 
16 
15 

14 30 
13 


3 


17 45 

18 55 
20 20 


55 32 

21 

8 



468 



HaWs Astronomical Observations, 1868. 



Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



June 15, 18G7. — Sixtv-fifth Encami'ment. 



m. s. 

38 25 

44 

53 

6 5 

10 30 



6 35 

8 15 

9 25 



5 14 



5 25 20 

27 10 

28 40 



5 37 30 



93 



12 30 
16 
IC 
11 

7 



51 23 30 

2 
50 49 



77 6 



79 19 

37 
57 



81 42 



2 Q. On 31', off 31'. 



Lat. CGo 26'.! N. 



2 £2. On 31', off 32'. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. C' 65". 



to left to mountain. 



to left to mountain. 

Ou 30'. off 34. N. 25° W. by C. 

N. 24° W. by C. 

Var. 64° W. 

O to left to mountain. 
mark S. 79° W. by C. 
Var. 64° W. 



June 21, 1867.— Sixty-fifth Encampment. 



Ii. m. 


s. 


4 18 


15 


19 


35 


20 


55 



61 

60 45 
30 



I. C. + 2'. 

Cbrou. slow on L. M. T. 8" 55'. 



June 22, 1867.— Sixty-fifth Encampment. 



h. 


m. 


8. 


11 


39 
45 

48 
52 


40 




56 


40 





6 


50 




8 


50 




10 


20 



o 


, 


„ 


93 


23 
26 


30 




27 


30 




27 


30 




27 






21 






20 






19 


30 



I. 0. -i- 3' 30". 



Lat. 66° 26'. 1 N. 



July 6, 1867.— Sixty-fifth Encampment. 



b.m. 8. 
7 12 in a.m. 
4 27 48i).iii. 
7 17 37 a.m. 
4 22 32 p.m. 



!■ 58 26 30 



2D- 

Cluon. slow ou L. M. T. 14™ 10". 



.SKl'TEMnEK 15, 1867.— IWILLIK. 



fa. m. 


8. 


11 14 


30 


lU 


35 


18 


•j'> 


21 


12 


23 


45 


25 


50 



52 25 
25 



25 
24 
23 30 



2 O- On 24', off 41'. 
Lnt. 6flc 30'.6 N. 



Septembeu 15, 1867.— IwiLLiK— Continued. 



b. 


m. 


s. 


O 1 


" 


2 


1 

4 


53 


40 7 
39 48 






5 


55 


33 


30 




7 


25 


19 






9 


15 


4 





2 Q. On 32', off 32'. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 38"" 33'. 



Aprii, 3, 1868. — Tenth Igloo— Oo-sooab-ku. 



h. m. s. 

11 21 30 

26 42 

29 30 

41 50 

44 40 

48 35 
50 

52 20 

55 10 

59 20 

3 15 



32 30 

33 53 
35 

36 30 

37 30 



54 45 
51 
55 

55 1 
2 
2 
2 
1 

54 59 
56 
52 



30 



43 

42 48 
39 
27 
19 



2 £i. On 28', off 36'. 



Lat. 67° 50' N. 



2 0. On 28', off 37'. 
Assumed long. 5i' 29°' W. 
Chron. slow on L. M. T. W 



April 14, 1868.— Fourteenth Igloo — Ooglit Islands. 



m. s. 

38 40 

42 40 

46 10 



3 5 30 

8 
11 23 



60 26 
21 
11 30 



38 30 



5 
37 32 



2 0. On 32', off 32' 30". 
L.at. 68° 59'.5 N. 



2 0. On 32', off 33'. 
N. 15° W. bvC. 
N. 16° W. by C. 
N. 17° W. by C. 
Chron. slow ou L. M. T. 
Var. 98° W. 



April 17, 1868.— First Igloo— Hooper Inlet. 



21 
23 
43 



42 33 



43 
16 



2 0. On 30', off 34'. 

OS. 29i°"\V. by C. 

S. 30° \V. bv C. 

S. 31° W. bv C. 

S. 36° W. by C. 

Chrou. slow ou L. JI. T. S.V" '. 

Var. 91°. 1 \V. 



April 18, 1808. — Second Igloo — Quilliam Creek. 



h. m. 


a. 


9 47 


30 


50 


20 


53 




56 


20 


58 


43 


10 2 


35 1 






, 


„ 


59 


47 


30 


60 


11 






24 


30 




32 


30 




47 





2 0. Ou28' 30", off 35'. 
0S. 84° W. bvC. 
S. 83° (?) W'. by C. 
S. 86° W. bv (i- 
S. 87JO W. by C. 
S. 89° W. bv C. 
S. 89° W. by C. 
("hron. sh)W on L. 51. T. 50" 
Var. 107O.0 W. 



22». 



HalVs Astronomical Observations , 1868. 



469 



Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



April 19, 1868.— Tiiino Igloo— Crozieb Eivee. 



h. 


m. 


s. 


7 


11 


46 




13 


30 




18 


28 




20 


.50 




23 


20 



41 40 

42 15 
43 

43 5 
27 



2Q. On28', ofif36'. 

O «• 31° W. by C. 

O S. 29° W. bv C. 

O S. 30° W. by C. 

S. 301° W. ty C. 

S. 31° "W. by C. 

Chiou. slow on L. M. T. 50"" 

Var. 930.6 W. 



21» 



Between Third akd Fouuth Igloos. 



h. m. s. 



10 



55 10 

57 30 

53 

2 30 

5 

7 50 

11 15 

14 30 
18 

21 35 

26 5 

28 40 



63 11 
13 
14 

15 30 

16 30 
17 

17 
17 
17 
16 

12 30 
10 30 



2 Q, On 28', oflF 36'. 
S. 87° W. by C. 
S. 87° W. by C. 
S. 88° W. by C. 
S. 8a^° W. by C. 
S. 89Jo W. by C. 

N. 89° TV. by C. 
N. 88° W. by C. 
N. 87° W. by C. 
N. 85^° W. by C. 
N". 84^° W. by C. 
Lat. 69°3l'.9N.' 
Var. 89°.4 W. 



Ai'KiL 20, 18C8.— FouiiTH Igloo— Geknell Lake. 



li. ni. s. 
C 21 38 



23 57 
27 15 



51 



43 3 2 a. On 30', off 34'. 

.S. 43° "W. bv C. 
S. 43SO W. by C. 
56 S. 44° W. by C. 

S. 47° W. by C. 
Cbron. slow on L. M. T. l^ 46" 
Var. 100°. 3 W. 



Ai'RiL 20, 1808.— Beto'een Fourth axd Fifiti Igloos. 



li. m. 


s. 





' 


" 


9 26 




62 


39 




29 






45 




32 


50 




55 




37 


5 


63 


4 




41 






18 


30 


47 


35 




27 




55 


15 




.•*<i 




2 


40 




40 


30 


9 


5 




43 




17 


30 




43 





2 0. On 30', off ,34'. 
N. 87° W. bv C. 
0N. 8610 W. bvC. 
N. 8G° W. by' C. 
N. 88° (?) W. by C. 
N. 86° W. by C. 
N. 84° W. bv C. 
N. 82*0 ^. {,y (; 
0N. 82° W. bv'C. 
K. 79° W. bV C. 
Lat. 69° 40'.4 N. 
Var. 101° W. 



April 22, 1868.— Sixth Igloo— Excamtmekt Bat. 



h. m. 
9 59 



10 



8 40 



58 22 30 I 2 0. On 22'. off 32*. 

S. 69° W. bv C. 

59 30 .S. 70*0 y^ i,^ c. 
17 I S. 71.i° W. bv C. 

I Chron. fast on L. M. T. 3" 25^. 
Var. 1040.2 W. 



April 22, 1868.— Sixth Igloo— Encamp't Bay— Cont'd. 



11 9 



11. m. s. 
10 44 

56 20 

59 40 
5 

12 40 
25 

35 7 

41 42 

47 17 

50 30 

53 25 

56 25 

15 

4 45 
8 
10 

12 15 

15 40 

18 43 
21 
25 
20 

33 15 



3 39 



62 8 
53 

63 5 
32 
43 

64 13 
29 
40 
45 
46 
48 
50 
52 
52 
52 
51 
49 
47 
46 
44 
39 
34 
27 



42 5 
44 15 



46 54 



25 
6 



2 0. 
0S. 
OS. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 
0S. 



S. 84° W. by C. 
87*o W. by C. 
880 "W. by C. 
89^° "W. by C. 
89AO W. by C. 
87° W. by C. 
830 -vy. by 0. 
83° W. by C. 
81° W. bv C. 
80P "W. bv C. 
80° "W. by"C. 
79° "W. by G. 
78° W. by C. 
77JO W. by C. 
770 W. by C. 



S. 75JO W. by C. 
S. 750 W. by C. 
0S. 740. W. by C. 

S. 72^0 -V7. by C. 
S. 720 "vv. by C. 
S. 71° W. by C. 
Lat. 69° 47'.3 N. 
Var. 1020.5 W. 

2 0. On 29', off SS*. 
JSr. 19^0 w. by C. 
N. 190 W. by C. 
O N. 190 W. by C. 
t'hron. fast on L. M. T. 2° 
Var. 90O.5 W. 



55>. 



April 27, 1868.— Nkth Igloo, same as slsth. 



b. m. s. 

11 36 30 

41 30 

46 50 I 

51 10 I 

57 32 I 
4 

7 15 

10 53 
15 

18 3 

21 50 

25 50 



67 45 



68 



51 
56 30 



1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
67 57 



55 30 
52 

47 



2 0. 

0N. 

0N. 
ON. 
0N. 
ON. 
ON. 
ON. 
0N. 
ON. 



On 28', off 36'. 
870 W. by C. 
81° (?) W. bv C. 
7940 W. by t!. 
79io W. bv C. 
790 W. bv'C. 
78° W. by C. 
76° "W. by C. 
75° "W. by C. 
730 "W. by C. 



N. 70° TV. by C. 
Lat. 69° 47'. 8 N. 
Var. 1030 W. 



April 28, 1868.— Islakd, west estrakce to Furt and 
Hecla Straits. 



m. 


8. 


40 




44 




47 


50 


51 


20 


54 


30 


58 




1 




3 


45 


6 


40 


10 


35 


15 


27 


18 


30 


21 


20 



15 
17 
20 
24 
26 
27 
27 
27 
26 
25 
24 
22 
18 



2 0, 

ON 

ON 

0N 

ON, 

ON. 

ON, 

ON. 

ON 

0N. 

©N. 

ON. 

Lat. 

Var. 



On 29', off 35'. 
. 76° TV. bv C. 
. 74° TV. by C. 

73° TV. by C. 

72*0 w. i,v C. 

72° TV. by C. 

71° TV. by C. 

70i° TV. by C. 

70° TV. by C. 

68° TV. by C. 

670 -W". l)y C. 

6C0 TV. bv C. 
690 54/.5 ij, 
IO80.8 TV. 



470 



HaWs Astronomical Observations, 18G8. 



Astronomical obscrvaiions made during tlic years 1864-'69 — Continued. 



Apeil 28, 1868.— Island, west knteance, &c.— Cont'd. 


May 2, 1868.— Eleventh Igloo, near Cape East— Cont'd. 


h. m. s. 
4 27 

35 15 

36 30 

37 50 


/ // 
42 37 
41 16 
4 
40 51 


2Q. 

Cbron. fast on L. M. T. 1" 3». 

Cliron. fast on L. M. T. 58'. 


h. 
5 


m. 

10 
12 
13 


s. 
58 
40 
35 


/ // 
30 39 

20 

11 


2 0. 

O to right to mark. 

N. 6° E. by C. 
N. 7° E. by C. 

2 0. ON. 7i° E. 
O N. 8° E. 
O N. 8° E. 

to right to mark. 

Bear'g of© mark S. 80° E. by t'. 

Alt. of !^ mark 25'. 

Var. 98° "W. 


5 


16 


15 


89 37 


4 45 43 
47 40 
49 17 


39 31 

12 

38 56 


5 


18 
20 


22 
27 




April 29, 1 


868. — Tenth Igloo, near Cape Englefield. 


5 


23 
26 
27 


28 
38 


34 30 

3 

33 47 


h. m. s. 
11 53 

57 27 
1 
4 

5 30 
7 10 
11 45 
13 30 


/ // 

69 11 30 

11 30 

12 

13 

13 

13 

11 

10 


2Q. On 31', off 33'. 
N. 72° "W. by C. 
O N. 70° W. by C. 

O N. 67° W. by C. 

O N. 65JO W. by C. 
Lat. 09° 51'. 
Var. 112° W. 


5 


32 
34 


32 
16 


85 57 
41 


May 10, 1868.— OoGLiT Islands. 


h. 
11 




m. 

24 

28 
31 
34 
40 
43 
13 
17 


s. 
30 

10 

15 
30 


o / // 
77 10 

10 

9 30 
9 
3 



2 0. On 30', off 34'. 
ON. 88° W. l)y C. 
N. 85J° W. by C. 

O N. 82° W. by C. 
N. 81° "W. by C. 
N. 81° "W. by C. 
O N. 75° W. by C. 
N. 75° W. bV C. 
Lat. 68° 58'.4 N. 
Var. 92°. 2 W. 

2 0. ON. byC. 

O N. by C. 

N. 1° E. by C. 

N. 3i° E. ty C. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 32'" :;0'. 

Va-.-. 95°.l W. 


May 1, 1868.— Tenth Igloo. 


h. m. 8. 
10 28 29 

30 24 

31 20 
36 6 
37 

38 
45 


' '/ 

66 57 

67 6 
10 
30 
35 
40 


2 Q. On 34', off 30'. 
S. 84° W. by C. 

O S. 86° "W. by C. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 1» 44". 

Var. 110O.9 W. 


4 


31 
33 
35 

50 


27 
45 
45 
30 


42 10 

41 44 

23 


May 2, 1 


868.— Eleventh Igloo, neak Cape East. 


h. m. s. 
11 45 

48 40 
53 

55 45 
59 
50 

4 

50 
11 30 


/ '/ 

71 

1 

1 30 

2 30 
2 30 
2 

1 



70 56 


2 0. On 31', off 33'. 
ON. 86° W. by C. 
O N. 8!3° W. by C. 
O N. 83.^0 ^Y. by 0. 
0N. 83° W. by'C. 
N. 82° W. by C. 
N. 81° W. by C. 

N. 8U° W. by C. 
O N. 80° W. by' C. 
Lat. 09° 49'.7 if. 

2Q. On Capo East. 
O to right to mark. 


May 20, 1868.— Fifth Encampment— Second .louRNiiv 

FliOM OOGLIT. 


h. 
9 

9 


m. 
27 

29 
31 
36 
38 


s. 
35 


' // 
73 5 

18 
32 
74 

15 


2 Q. On 32', off 32'. 

OS. 60° W. by C. 

S. 00° W. by C. 

OS. 6UO W. byC. 

0S. 03° W. byC. 

S. 63J° W. l>v C. 

Chron. slow on L. M. T. 2C'" 4\ 

Var. 96°.0 W. 

2 0. ON. 79° W. by C. 
ON. 78° W. by C. 
O N. 701° W. by C. 
ON. 7.''j°'W. byC. 
N. 73*° W. l>v C. 
Lat. 7»°'0'.8 N. ' 
Var. 101O.2 W. 

After mi<riilia)i observations, 
chron. set forward 30"'. 


5 1 19 

3 27 

4 22 

5 13 


38 17 

37 54 

40 

36 


11 


28 
33 
37 
42 
49 


15 
30 
40 


79 45 
45 30 
45 
43 
37 


5 7 20 

8 20 

9 18 


91 35 
28 
10 



HalVs Astronomical Observations, 18 8. 



471 



Asironomiml observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Couliuued. 



June 3 


, 1868.— First Encampment on retukn journey 
TO Repulse Bay. 






June 13, 1868.- 


-FifTH Encampment. 




li. m. 


s. 


O ' // 




h. 


m. 


s. 


o 


/ ,- 






8 41 


30 


80 21 30 


2 Q. On 35', off 29'. 


11 


46 


45 


90 


30 


2 0. On 28', off 36'. 




48 


20 


29 






49 


15 




34 


As.sunicd long. 82° 52' "W 




57 


50 


32 






53 


10 




37 


S. 7.3° W. by C. 




9 3 


20 


32 






58 


20 




42(?) 


S. 70° W. by C. 




8 


10 


28 







3 


25 




43 


O S. 77° W. by C. 




10 


30 


25 






7 






43 


S. 80° W. by C. 




21 


50 


10 


Lat. 68° 55'.5 N. 




15 
36 






41 


S. 80° (?) W. by C. 
S. 88° W. by C. 
Lat. 67° 37'.4 N. 










June 4, 1868.— PmsT Encampment. 












Var. 79°.3 TV. 

2 0. On 28', off 36'. 




h. m. 


s. 


o / // 




4 


50 


25 


56 


35 


10 40 


40 




2 Q. On 35', off 29'. 
O S. 03° W. by C. 




52 
53 


20 




18 
2 


Chron. fast on L. M. T. 5" 


47". 


43 


55 


83 52 30 

84 4 


S. 65° W. by C. 
O S. 65° W. by C. 
















46 


40 
















48 


47 


14 


S. 66° W. bv C. 






















Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2°> 25'. 






June W, 1868.- 


-Sixth Encampment. 










Var. 870.8 W. 

2 0-0 S. 860W. byC. 
O S. 87° W. by C. 
















n 50 




SO 41 


h. 


m. 


8. 


o 


/ „ 






52 


50 


42 


8 


43 


27 


71 


2 


2 0. On 32', off 32'. 




58 


40 


45 


W. 




44 


54 




18 






1 


30 


44 


N. 89° W. by C. 




45 


57 




29 






5 


15 


45(?) 


N. 88° W. by C. 




52 


12 


72 


32 


S. 7° "W. by C. 




7 


10 


45 






54 


50 




59 


S. 19° W. by C. 




8 


50 


43 30 






58 


24 


73 


33 


S. 20° W. by C. 




10 


20 


42 


N". 8.5° W. by C. 
Lat. 68° 55'. 8 N. 


9 





32 




55 


0S. 20°-W. b'yC. 












2 


55 


74 


18 


S. 21° W. by C. 










Var. 90°. 4 W. 












Chron. fast on L. M. T. 10" 
Var. 760.3 "W. 

2 0. On 32', off 32'. 
S. 80° W. by C. 


7". 


June 5, 1868.— Second Encampment on return. 


11 


55 


25 


91 


21 










h. m. 


s. 


o / // 
















11 53 


25 


87 11 30 


2 Q. On 33', off 29'. 




58 


55 




23 30 


(•) S. 80JO W. by C. 




57 


10 


87 12 


Assumed long. 82° 5' "W. 





1 


45 




25 


S. 81J° ^V. h'v C. 




2 




13 






5 


15 




27 30 


0S. 83° \V. byC. 




4 


7 


12 30 






7 


30 




28 


0S. 85° W. byC. 




6 


40 


11 30 






10 


30 




28 


O S. 86° "W. by C. 




9 




11 






13 






27 30 






11 


3 


10 


Lat. 68° 48'.6 N. 




18 
23 
27 


55 
25 




27 
23 
20 


S. 86° W. by C. 

S. 87° W. by C. 
Lat. 67° 22' N. 
Var. 84°.4 W. 




June 6, 1868.— Second Encampment. 








li. ni. 


.s. 


O / '/ 


















6 13 
15 


45 
7 


40 6 
39 52 


2 0. On 35', off 29'. 






Jl 


NE 19, 1868.— 


Eighth Encampment. 




16 
19 

20 


13 

53 


41 
38 50 


















© N. 10° E. by C. 


h. 
1 


m. 
46 


s. 
45 


o 
88 


/ ,f 


2 0. On 26', off 38'. 














49 


g 


87 


46 
32 


Chron. fiist on L. M. T. 16" 
Lat. 00° !J4' N. 


6». 












51 


45 


6 27 
29 
30 


35 

10 


89 34 
17 

4 


to right to mark. 

Bear'g of mark S.72°E. byC. 












Assumed long. 84° 21' W. 


























Var. 94°. 2 W. 


5 


57 


40 


46 


3 


2 0. On 19', off 45'. 










6 31 
33 


47 
i 


36 53 
43 


2 0. 


6 


59 

7 


55 


45 
44 


38 
16 


Cluon. set back 19 minutes. 1 


34 


25 


28 


0N 15°E. bvC. 
















6 37 


35 














7 8 






N. 17° (>.) E. by C. 


6 


23 


57 


41 




2 0. On 19', off 45'. 










Chron. fast on L. M. T. 5"' 9». 




25 


45 


40 


38 30 


Chron. fast on L. M. T. 16" 


7*. 








Var. 95°.2 W. 




27 


50 




15 







472 HaWs Astronomical Ohservatious, 1868. 

Astronomical ohservaiions made during the years 1864-'69 — Continued. 





June 23, 1868.— 


Ninth Encami'mkst. 


June 25, 1868.- 


-Eleventh Encampment— Continued. 


li. m. 


s. 





/ (/ 




h. 


m. 


8. 





, „ 




4 15 








0S. 50OE. bvC. 


8 


56 


20 


74 


24 30 


2 0. 


21 








0S. 40J°E. bvC. 




57 


22 




35 


Chron. fVist on L. M. T. 6'» 31». 


25 








O S. 46° E. by C. 




59 






02 




26 

27 








S. 47° E. by C. 
O S. 47° E. by C. 
























28 








S. 46° E. by C. 


9 


1 


45 


76 


22 30 


2 0. On 30', off 33' 30". 


30 








S. 47° E. by C. 












0S. 21°AV.bvC. 


32 








S. 46° E. by C. 




5 






22 


2e-. S. 22° AV. by C. 


35 








S. 45^° E. by C. 




7 


50 




22 


2i2. 22:j°AV. byC. 


39 








S. 44° E. by C. 
S. 44° E. by C. 














43 




















44 
45 
40 
49 
54 








0S. 44°E. byC. 
OS. 44°E. byC. 
S. 43J° E. by C. 
S. 43° E. by C. 
O S. 41° E. by C. 


9 


59 








S. 37° AV. by C. 

mark N. 48° AV. by C. 








10 


5 








OS.38^°AV.byC. 


56 








S. 41° E. by C. 














59 








S. 40^° E. by C. 














5 








0S. 4o°E. byC. 


11 


14 


8 


91 


30 


2 0. On 30', off 34'. 


4 








S. 39° E. by C. 
2 0. On 32', oft- 32'. 




15 


50 




37 30 


to right to same mountain. 


5 52 


30 


40 




11 


25 




75 


51 


55 


8 




33 30 


Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2" 32». 




27 


25 




17 




57 


25 


41 




S. 24° E. by C. 




29 






10 


2Q. 


5 








11 


33 


47 


92 


32 


9 








0S. 22J°B. byC. 




35 


35 




35 




10 








S. 23° E. by C. 




45 


40 




54 




11 


30 






S. 224° E. by C. 

2 0. On 32", off 31' 30". 




47 


40 




57 


2 0!. On 30', off 34'. 


10 45 


55 


89 


41 


11 


54 


53 


93 


9 


48 


17 




53 


Chron. fast on L. M. T. 2°' 48». 












0S.73OAV. byC. 


49 


17 




58 






57 


37 




11 


0S. 74°AV.byC. 


55 


55 


90 


30 30 


S. 51JO W. by C. 








30 




12 


S. 750 AV. by C. 


11 


10 




49 


0S. 52° W. byC. 




3 


55 




13 


S. 753° AV. liy C. 


4 


36 


91 


8 30 


S. 54° W. by C. 




6 


30 




13 30 


S. 7C'i° AV. by C. 


18 








S. r.(H° W. i.y C. 




10 






15 


S. 77io AV. by C. 


41 


20 






S. 7U° W. by C. 




13 


10 




14 30 


0S. 79°AV. by'C. 


49 


20 






S. 70° W. by C. 




18 








S. 80° AV. by C. 


52 




93 


7 


S. 70° AV. b'y C. 




20 






11 30 




56 


55 




10 


S. 72° AV. b'y C. 




22 


5 




10 


S. 82° AV. by C. 


2 






12 


S. 74° W. b'y C. 












Lat. 00° 29'.5 N. 


4 


40 




12 


S. 7.".° W. by C. 












Var. 77°.6 AV. 


8 
12 






12 
10 


S. 76° AV. by C. 
S. 77A° W. by C. 


























10 


15 




9 


S. 79° AV. by C. 
Lat. 06° 34'.9 Sf. 
Var. 75°. '2 AV. 






Kov 


EMBER 11, 186 


8. — First Encampment. 
























h. 
8 


m. 

58 


s. 



48 


' " 


2 i;. I. C. - 2' 30". 






















9 


22 


30 


47 


50 30 


Tlier. - 20°. 




Jvs 


E25, 


1868.— I 


LEVEKTII E.NC.UlrMEXT. 












Long, assmuetl 5^ 44"" 8" AV. 
Cliron. fast on L. M. T. 1'" 3". 

Lat. 00° 30'.7 N. 


h. m. 

8 37 


8. 
30 




113 


/ // 
15 


to risbt to.mounf ain. 
































Eleyation 250 feet above sea. 
2Q. On 30', off 34'. 


li. 


] 


'fovi 


SMBEH 12, 186S 


.—Second Encampment. 


8 44 


30 


72 


22 


m. 


8. 





/ /( 




40 


10 




38 




8 


17 




47 


52 


2 li. J. C. - 2' 30". 


47 


30 




54 






30 

48 


40 




50 
35 


Zj. S. 07° AV. by C. 
"3; S. 70° AV. by C. 
■4 .S. 72° W. by C. 










8 49 


50 


110 


23 


O to right to mountain. 


9 


10 








11 S. 78° AV. by C. 


52 


10 


109 


47 














Then - 28°. 


54 


17 




22 


mark by C. N. 48° AV. 
Var. 770.0 \V. 












Lat. 00° 3.V N. 
Var. 070.1 AV. 



HalVs Astronomical Observations^ 1869. 



473 



Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69 — Contiunod. 



November 14, 1868.— Third Encampment. 



h. 


m. 


s. 


10 


32 

42 





9 10 
15 30 



2£}. Ass'dlonjr. 51' 42" 12^ "W. 

O S. 72° W. by C. 

S. 75° TV. bv C. 

Lat. 66° 48'.8 N. 

Ther. - ]()o. 

Var. 750.1 W. 



November 17, 1868 


. — Fourth Encampment. 


k. m. a. 


' " 




10 2 15 a.m. 


36 43 


2 9 . Ass'd lontr. 5'' 41"' 43» W. 
5 S. 72oW.by'C. 


16 


37 8 


$ S. 70° W. by C. 


42 15 


33 


2 S. 83° W. by C. 


52 


32 


Q S. 83° W. bv C. 
Lat. 60° 57'. 9 N. 










Var. 85°.3 W. 



November 18, 1868. — Fifth Encampment. 



7 33 a.m. 

8 53 



32 43 30 



2 ?. 5 S. 58° W. byC. 
? S. 80° W. by C. 
Lat. 66° 59' N. 
Var. ge°.7 W. 



November 19, 1868. — Sixth Encampment. 



h. m. 
7 11 



24 
40 



33 



44 51 



30 



2 -y. I. C. - 2' 30". 
■4 S. 66° W. by C. 
■U S. 60° W. bv C. 
■U S. 72° W. by C. 
Tber. + 18°. 
Lat. 67° 1' N. 
Var. 8G0.4 W. 



November 20, 1868.— Seventh Encampment. 



14 25 



45 



2 T|. Tj N. 790 W. by C. 
Lat. 66° 56'.5 N. 
Var. 83°.6 W. 



November 21, 1868.— Eighth Encampment. 



h. 


ra. 


a. 


7 


22 


50 




35 


30 






, 


,j 


46 


43 






22 


30 



2 T^. •yS. 9 
Lat. 07° N. 
Var. 83° W. 



P'W.hjC. 



November 23, 1868.— Eighth Encampment. 



November 23, 1868.— Eighth Encampment— Continued. 



h. 


m. 


s. 





" 


' 


7 





20 


32 


12 






8 


25 




8 






14 


30 




3 


30 


7 


30 


30 


46 


50 






41 


45 




47 




7 


33 


53 


46 


53 


30 




44 


20 




48 





2 ^. Small sextant. 
I. C. - 2' 30". 



2 1/. Large sextant. 
Lat. 67° O'.l N. 



2 11. Small sextant. 
11 N. 90° W. by C. 
Lat. 67° 0' N. 
Var. 870.5 "W. 



November 26, 1868. — Ninth = Fourth Encampment. 



h. m. 


ft. 


7 53 




57 


30 


8 3 




7 


40 



46 50 
49 

43 
37 



2 %. 

ll N. 90° W. by C. 
Lat. 06° 57'.8 N. 
Var. 840.5 "W. 



April 13, 1869. — West side Pelly Bay. 



m. 
55 


4 
6 
10 



60 55 20? 



50 
48 
45 
40 



2 Q. On 30', off 35'. 
O S. 86° W. by C. 
S. 87° W. by C. 
S. 89° W. by C. 
S. 89° W. by C. 
S. 90O W. by C. 
Lat. 68° 30' N. 



Eighteenth Encampment. 



h. m. 
3 42 



45 
49 



39 41 



38 




26 



2 0. On 21' 30", off 43' 30". 

N. 34° W. by C. 

0N. 340 W. by C. 

N. 330 W. by C. 

Ther. - 12°. 

Cbron. slow on L. M. T. 9"" 4». 

Mae. var. 82°.8 "W. 



h. m. 


a. 


6 41 




49 


20 


7 


25 



32 



25-. LC. -2'30" 
» S. 83° W. by C. 
Large sextant. 
Lat. 67° N. 





iPRI 

s. 


L21, 


1869. — Twentieth Encampment. 




h. m. 





, // 






11 47 




66 


30 


2 0. On 33', off 31'. 
S. 65° W. by C. 




52 






3!3 


S. 67° W. bV C. 




56 


30 




»-, 


S. 72° W. bV C. 




2 






36 


S. 74° W. by C. 




7 






35 15 


0S. 76° W. b'yC. 




12 


20 




33 30 


S. 80° W. bV C. 




18 






29 30 


S. f>5° W. b'v C. 
Lat. 68° 31'.1 N. 

2 0. 




5 37 


8 


26 


45 


38 


35 




30 






30 


57 




15 


N. 1.50 W. by C. 




44 




25 


30 


0N. 130 W. byC. 




47 









N. 12° W. b'y C. 




51 


15 


24 


12 


N. 11° W. bj C. 
Chron. fast on L. M. T. 3" 












41 ». 










Var. 70O.6 W. 





474 



HalVs Astronomical Observations, 1869. 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-'69-Coi3tinuecl. 



ApBIL 26, 1869.-TWENTr-THIKD EUCAMPMENl 



h. m. 

11 41 

45 
49 
55 

5 
11 
16 
20 



43 69 46 



25 
45 
5 
55 
45 

45 
45 



49 
51 
55 
56 
54 
51 
44 
42 



45 33 

48 20 

51 25 

57 25 

58 44 
2 



27 45 

15 

26 42 

25 30 

15 





2 a- On 32', off 32'. 
S. 5]o w. by C. 
S. 52° W. by C. 
S. 53° W. by C. 
O S. 54^ W. h\- C. 
© S. 57° \f. by C. 
S. 57° ^V. by C. 
S. 59° W. bV C. 
S. 60° W. bV C. 
S. 59° (?) at: by C. 
Lat. 68° 29'.9 N. 

2 Q- N". 27° W. by C. 
N. 26° W. by C. 
N. 25° W. by C. 
Chron. fast on M. L. T 1™ 
Var. 610.3 W. 



JtnO! 4, 1869.— FOETT-FIEST ENCAMPMENT. 



3o». 



APKIL 28, 1869.-TWENTY.FOURTH ENCAMPMENT. 



m. 
32 

36 
40 
42 



21 30 

19 
18 
15 



2(0. On 27', off 37'. 
S. 75° W. by {;. 
S. 7(i° W. bV C. 
S. 77° W. by C. 
0S. 80oW.-bVC. 
As. long. S' 55"J W 
Lat. 68° 2'.1 M". 



JULY 31, 1869.-LOW-TIDE Encampment. 



68 35 



67 



18 

3 

51 



2 0. On 32'. off .32'. 
S. 87° W. by C. 
I S. 88° W. by C. 

S. 90° W. by C. 

Cbron. slow on L. M. X 36"" 

Lat. 68° 38' N. 



May 13, 1869.— Thiktieth Encampment. 



b. ni. 8. 



79 45 



45 

45 30 

45 30 

44 30 

41 45 
89 



82 50 

48 
46 
44 
38 
35 
31 



30 



2 0. On 31', off 32' 30". 
S. 59° W. by C. 
S. 60° W. 1)V C. 
S. 61° W. by C. 
S. 62° W. bV C. 
O S. 63° W. b'y C. 
S. 64° W. by C. 
S. 65*0 -RT. i,y Q 
As. long. 5'' 46"' 40' "W 
Lat. 66° 29'.3 N. 



August 3, 1869.— Same place. 



2 0. On 31' 30", off 32' 30" 
O S. 40° E. by C. 
S. 45° E. by C. 
S. 45° E. by C. 
S. 43° E. by C. 
O S. 40° E by C. 
As. long. (;» 2b'° 40« W 
Lat. 68° 23'. 8 N. 



h. m. B. 



o 


, 


,, 


81 


4 






8 


30 




13 






15 


15 




18 


15 




18 


15 




17 






15 


1 



2 0. On 32', off 31'. 



Lat. 66° 29'.5 ISi. 



May 16, 1869.-THIRTY-PIIIST Encampment. 



40 19 

21 
23 
25 
25 



0. Sea horizon. I. C. + 4' 
S. 47° W. by C. 
O S. 45° W. b'y C. 
S. 430 W. b'y C. 
O S. 41° \Y. by C. 
S. 42° (?) W. by C. 
As. long. 6'' 18"' W. 
Lat. 68° 32'. 2 N. 



May 23, 1869.-THiRTY.FiPrii Encampment. 



h. m. 



83 38 

39 
40 
41 
39 



30 



2 0. On 26', off 37'. 
O S. 61° W. by C. 
© S. 62° W. by C. 

S. 64° W. by C. 
CO S. 60° W. b'v (;. 
Ah. long. ()!' 10'" W 
Lat. 680 33'.! N. 



^gust 19, 1869.-NEAB Whale Point. 



h. 


m. 


.s. 





, 


„ 


11 


45 




75 


53 






48 


40 




56 


30 




53 


15 


76 








58 


15 




2 







2 






2 


30 




4 


4b 







30 




10 






1 






13 


25 


75 


.-.8 






17 


40 




56 





2 0. On .33' 30', off 30' 30" 

S. 29° W. by C. 

© S. 30° AV. by C. 

© S. 31J° W. by C. 

S. 33° W. by C. 

S. 340 W. by C. 

S. 350 W. b'y C. 

S. 360 W. bV C. 

© S. 380 ^r |,y (, 

S. 39i W. bV C. 

As. long. 511 51'" 40" W 

Lat. 64° 21'.7 X. 



August 20, 1869.— Same place. 



li. m. s. 

4 21 35 
24 37 
27 
37 



43 11 

42 32 





2 0. On 33' 30". off 30' 30" 



O N". 70° W. by C. 

Watch slow on L. M. T. 30" 

Var. 340.2 W. 



August 29, 1869.-RowE'e Welcome. 



h. TO. 8. 



35 35 



0. Sea horizon. I. C. — 2' 30" 
Altitude of oyp, 14 foot. 
As. long. 5I' ,52'" 29' W 
Lat. 63° 27'.3 N. 



IlaWs Astronomical Observatiom, 1839. 

Astronomical observations made during the years 1864-69 — Continued. 



475 



August 30, 1869.— Eovve's Welcome. 


September 5, 1869.— Hudson's Stuait. 


h. m. 

11 40 
44 
47 
50 
54 
57 


s. 
45 
40 
30 
30 
15 


O ' II 

35 30 30 
32 
32 
32 
31 
30 


Q. I. C. - 2' 30". 
Kyo above soa, 14 feet. 
As. long. 5^ 45°' 42" "W. 

Lat. 63° 8'.9 X. 


h. 

8 


m. 

7 


s. 
20 


' '/ 

26 44 


Q. I.e. -3'. Dip -3' 40". 
Watch slow on L. M. T. 57" 2». 

As. long. 4' SO"" 4' "W. 
Lat. 60° 54'.9 K. 


11 


20 
35 




35 35 
35 


September 6, 1869.— Hudson's Strait. 


September 2, 1869.— Hudson's Stbait. 


h. m. 


8. 


/ " 

?4 32 


Q. Sea horizon. I. C. — 3'. 
As. long. SI- lO" 40> ^V. 
Dip - 4'. 
Lat. 63° 5' N. 


h. 
U 


m. 
16 
25 


s. 
15 
25 


o / '/ 

35 46 30 
42 


Q. I.e. -3'. 
Eye above sea, 12 foot. 
As. long. 4>' S" "W. 
Lat. 60° 20'.8 K. 



APPENDIX II. 



METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL KEPT BY MR. C. F. HALL ON HIS SECOND 
ARCTIC EXPEDITION, JULY, 18G4-APRIL, 1869. 



^PPEIS^DIX II 



HALL'S METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, 1864-'69. 



Tabulated by Mr. R. W. D. Bryan, 

Assistant in the preparation of this Narrative, binder the orders of the Navy Department. 



METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL, t 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 


Monti- 
cello's 
mercu- 
rial 
Barom. 


Wind.: 


Sky. 


Remarks. 


At sea* 


1864. 
July 5, 7 a. m. 
m. 

6, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

7, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

8,7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

!), 7 a. ni. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

10,7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

30, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

31, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

Aug. 1, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

2,7 a. m. 

ni. 

7 p. m. 

1 


o 

64 

68 

65 

67 

69 

09 

71 

70 

60 

64 

68 

58 

54 

57 

60 


In. 

29.80 
.84 
.96 
.97 
.95 
.90 
.88 
.80 
.80 
.83 
.80 
.78 
.80 
.80 

29.97 






Fog; rain. 
























Lat. 42° 15' N. 
Long. 56° 37' W. 

Lat. 420 46' N. 
Long. 54° 56' W. 

Lat. 43° 18' N. 
Long. 53° 15' AV. 

Lat. 52° 27' N. 
Long. 59° 56' W. 

Lat. 61° 36' N. 
Long. 67° 00' W. 

Davis Strait. 
Lat 61° 37' N. 
Long. 67° 17' W. 

Lat. 61° 38' If. 
Long. 67° 34' W. 


































[ 


j 






< 


34 
34 

"'35' 
36 
33 

31 
37 
31 
32 
35 
32 


29. 26 TisK . . 'Fre.sh J 


.30 
.50 
.62 
.75 
29.71 


ENE....Gale. 
E.bvN.-.Gale. 
Calm 


Cloudv 

Cloudy 


Calm 1 


Calm 1 




Aneroid 
Bar. 


Calm 

Calm 

"WNW 2 

W.by N....5 
W. byN.. .4 
SW 4 


Hazy; clear - 
Hazy; clear. 
Haz'v; clear 

Hazv 

Cloudy . ... 
-.do 


29.75 
.74 
.73 
.68 
.66 
.64 


*Hall sailed from Kew London, on board tho bark Monticello, July 1,1864. Observations were generally 
made thrice daily, viz, a. m., noon, and p. m. 

t The defective condition of hisin-strumcntsis frequentlyreferredtoin tho preceding pages of the Narrative. 

* Figures to denote the force of the \vind : 0, calm ; 1, light air ; 2, light breeze ; 3, gentle breeze ; 4, moderate 
breeze; 5, fresh breeze; 0, strong breeze ; 7, moderate gale; 8, fresh gale; 9, strong gale; 10, whole gale; 11, 
storm ; 12, hurricane. 



479 



480 



HaWs Meteorological Journal, 1864-69. 

August, 1864. 



Locality. 



Davis Strait. 
Lat. 610 35' N, 
Long. 67° 51' W, 



Lat. 61° 39' 
Long. 68° 08' 

Lat. 61° 42' 
Long. 68° 26' 

Lat. 61° 48' 
Long. 68° 43 

Lat. 62° 01 
Long. 69° 00' 

Lat. 62° 16' 
Long. 70° 40 

Lat. 62° 43' 
Long. 72° 33' 

Lat. 63° 48' 
Long. 75° 00' 

Lat. 03° 07 
iLong. 77° 08' 



Lat. 
Long 



Lat. 
Long 



Lat. 60° 59' 
Long. 84° 27' 

Lat. 61° 33 
Long. 85° -16' 

Lat. 62° 14' 
Long . . . 



62° 24' 
79° 34' 



61° 43' 
82° 00' 



Lat. 62° 08' 
Long. 88° 40' 

Lat. 02° 09' 
Long. 90° 20' 

Lat. 620 44' 
Long. 89° 40' 



Depot Island 



Lat. 63° 47 

Long. 89° 51' 

Do 



Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 



Date. 



1864. 
Aug. 3, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7p. ni. 

4, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

5, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

6, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

7, 7 a. m. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 

8, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

9, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

10, 7 a. m. 



/ p. m. 

11, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

12, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

13,7 a. m. 

ui. 

7p, m. 

14, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

1.5, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

16, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

17, 7 a. ID. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

18, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

19, 7 a. m. 



7 p. m. 

20, 7 a. 7U. 

m. 

7 p. ni. 

21,7 a. ui. 

ni. 

7 p. m. 

22, 7 a. 711. 

m. 

7 p. ni. 

23, 7 a. m. 

111. 

7 p. m. 

24, 7 a. m. 

III. 

7 p. m. 

25, 7 n. ui. 

III. 

7 p. ni. 



Ther. 



Aneroid 
Bar. 



33 
35 
31 
32 
82 
32 
34 
34 
34 
33 
36 
34 
33 
38 
36 
36 
38 
38 
36 
38 
37 
38 
38 
36 
36 
45 
41 
40 
41 
42 
41 
39 
38 

37 
40 
38 
39 
41 
40 
41 
40 
40 
39 
39 
40 
40 
45 
42 
42 
46 
43 

42 

47 
42 
40 
46 
42 
44 
47 
45 
44 
47 
43 
40 
46 
44 
43 
50 
42 



In. 

29. 62 
.59 
.57 
.25 
.31 
.32 
.42 
.56 
.68 
.77 
.79 
.84 
.91 
.88 
.85 
.75 
.67 
.64 
.55 
.45 
.38 
.37 
.43 
.49 
.53 
.71 
.08 
.62 
.53 
.44 

28.99 
.89 

29.20 

.20 
.26 
.24 
.20 
.18 
.22 
.23 
.34 
.32 
.34 
.38 
.46 
.45 
.47 
.50 
.48 
.47 
.47 

.53 
.58 
.00 
.63 
.65 
.63 
.66 
.60 
.58 
.60 
.01 
. 55 
.53 
.50 
.48 
.,50 
.57 
. 65 



Wind. 



SW 2 

SW 1 

SW 1 

NN"W 2 

NW.byW..5 
NW. tjVW . 
NW. byW . 

NNW' 

W. byN.-. 
W. by N... 
NW. by \f. 

NNW 

NW. byW.S 

WNW 5 

WNW 3 

S. byE 2 

S. byE 3 

S. byE 1 

SE 3 

SE 4 

SE 4 

SE 4 

SE 4 

ESE 4 

Baffling 1 

SSE 2 

SSE 3 

Calm 

Calm 

SE 4 

E 5 

ENE 5 

N 6 



NW 4 

W 4 

W. byS 5 

SW 3 

SW 3 

SSW 3 

NNE 6 

N 8 

NW. bvN...8 

N. byE 8 

NW 7 

NW 5 

NW 4 

NW. byW..3 

Calm 

NW. by W..4 

WNW 3 

WNW 4 



W.byN 3 

NW 2 

NW 2 

NW 4 

NW 3 

S 2 

SSW 3 

SSW 3 

E 

NE 7 

NE 7 

NE 7 

NE 4 



NE. 
NE. 
NE . 

NE. 
NE. 



...4 
...0 
..7 
...0 
..4 



Sky. 



. . cl'dy. 
Hazy; cl'dy. 

...do 

Fog 

Thick fog... 
Cloudy 

..do 

..do 

. do 

. do 

..do 

..do 

Few clouds . 

. do 

..do 

Cloudy 

...do 

Overcast 

...do 

Cloudy 

...do 

Few clouds . 

Cloudy 

...do 

Few clouds . 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 



Rain 

..do 

Threatening 



Gloomy 

Cloudy 

...do 

Few clouds . 

...do 

Threatening 

Overcast 

--.do 

.. do 

...do 

Threatening 

.. do 

Cloudy 

...do 

.. do 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 



...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Overcast. -- 

...do 

Cloiuly .... 
Overcast. .. 

...do , 

Cloudy 

. . do '. 

.. do 

Overcast. .. 
Cloudy 



Remarks. 



Passing showers. 

Sea-water 34°. Hy. 12. 
Sea- water 39°. 

Sea-water 38°. Hy. 12. 



Rain. 
Kain. 
Rain. 

Misty. 
Misty. 



Haz;^. 

Passing showers. 

Hazy i passing showers. 

Hazy. 

Hazy. 



Fog. 
Fog. 

Aurora in evening. 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



481 



August — September, 1864. 



Locality. 


Date. 


TUer. 


Aneroid 
Bar. 


Wind. 


1 

Sky. 


Remarks. 




1864. 


o 


In. 










Depot Island; 


Aug. 26, 7 a. m. 


41 


29.74 


NE 


..5 


Few clouds . 




OutheTendoi- 


m. 1 


50 


.70 


NE 


-.4 


...do 




Helen F. 


7 p. ni. 


46 


.68 


SE 


..1 


...do 




Do 


27, 7 a. m. 


42 


.50 


S 


. 3 


do 


Fog. 




m. 1 


52 


.48 


NW 


.4 


Cloudy 


"Fog-eater" morn, but disap- 




7 p. m. 


44 


.56 


N 


..3 


Few clouds ' 


peared at 8. 


Do 


28, 7 a. m. 


40 


.68 


NNW. . . 


. 5 


...do 






ni. 


44 


.68 


NNW 


..4 


...do 






7 p. m. 


42 


.70 


NNW 


..2 


.. do 




Do . . 


29, 7 a. ni. 


43 


.66 


NE 


. 1 


Cloudy 


Hazy. 


♦Started .from 


*ni. 


52 


.66 


NE. byE. 


.1 


Few clouds - 




Depot Island. 


7 p. in. 


40 


.68 


S 


..5 


-.- do 


Aurora 12 p. m., fine. 




30, 7 a. ni. 


40 


.75 


NNW. ... 


. 5 


Cloudy . ... 


Hazy. 


Lat. 64° 11' X. 


m. 


53 


.80 


NW 


.2 


Few clouds 




|LonK. 88° 41' W. 


7 p. m. 


40 


.81 


S. by E . . . 


2 


.. do 


Aurora. 


Landed 


31, 7 a. ni. : 


41 


.96 


N .... . . 


. 4 


Cloudy 


Hazy. 


1st Enct. 


m. 


48 


.94 


S 


-.2 


Few clouds . 




Lat. 64° 35' N. 


7 p. ni. 


38 


30.06 


S 


..4 


..-.do 




Lons- 87° 32' W. 
















Do 


Sept. 1, 7 a. in. : 


35 


30.00 


s 


..4 


Cloudy 


Misty. 




in. ' 


37 


.12 


s 


. 5 


... do - ... 


[arranged, but retiet. 




7 p. m. 


48 


.18 


s 


..5 


Overcast 


The barometer capsized and dis- 


Do 


2,7 a. ni. 


40 


.26 


wsw 


..4 


do 






m. 


47 


.22 


s 


. 5 


Cloudy 


Hazv. 




7 p. m. 


37 


.24 


s 


-.5 


...do 


Hazy. 


2d Enc't. 


3, 7 a. m. 


38 


.27 


sw 


.4 


...do 




Lat. 64° 50' N. 


m. 


45 


.25 


ssw 


.-3 


.. do 




LonR-. 87° 15' W. 


7 p. lu. 


38 


.37 


s 


-.3 


...do 


Hazy. 


I)o 


4, 7 a. m. 
m. 


41 
48 


.46 
.40 


s 

WS"W 


.3 
..5 


Few clouds . 
...do 








7 p. ra. 
5, 7 a. m. 


39 


.40 


sw 








Do 


40 


.41 


s 


..4 


...do 






m. 


54 


.35 


s 


.5 


Threatening 






7 p. ra. 


42 


.06 


s 


..3 


Few clouds . 




Do 


6, 7 a. m. 


43 


29.93 


s 


..3 


....do 






m. 


50 


.88 


s 


..5 


Cloudy 


Threatening. 




7 p. m. 


41 


.88 


s 


..2 


Few clouds . 




Do 


7,7 a. ra. 

Ul. 


39 
49 


.88 
.76 


N 

E 


-.1 
..1 


.. do 

...do 








7 p. m. 


33 


.84 


NE 


.1 


Cloudy 


Threatening. 


Do 


8, 7 a. m. 


34 


30.02 


N 


. 6 


....do'. 


This morn spit snow. 




m. 


40 


.06 


E.byN... 


.4 


Few clouds . 






7 p. m. 


34 


.14 


N.... 


-.6 


....do 




3d Enct. 


9, 7 a. ni. 


26 


.24 


NE 


-.3 


Cloudy 


Hazy. 1 Encanipiuents Nos. 3, 4, 5, 


Lat. 64° 46'.3 N. 


m. 


40 


.14 


NE 


..2 


....do' 


Hazv. \ C. and 7 were all in the 


Long. 87° 14' W. 
1)0. 


7 J), ni. 


32 


.10 


W 


. 2 


....do 


Hazy. > locality called Noowook. 


10, 7 a. ni. 


25 


.02 


W 


..2 


Few clouds . 






ni. 


47 


29.90 


N. by W. . 


.2 


Cloudy 






7 p. m. 


38 


.93 


SW...... 


..2 


Few clouds . 




Do 


11, 7 a. m. 


38 


.93 


SW 


..3 


Cloudy 






ra. 


42 


.89 


SSW 


-.3 


...do 






7 p. m. 


40 


.95 


sw 


..2 


Overcast 


Kain one hour in the night. 


Do 


12, 7 a. m. 


37 


.79 


ssw 


..2 


Fog; misty . 


Thick fog. 




m. 


40 


.73 


S.byW.. 


-.4 


Misty 


Kain. 




7 p. ra. 


34 


.73 


S. by W... 


-.4 


Overcast 




Do 


13, 7 a. m. 


35 


.54 


E 


..3 


Misty 






ni. 


37 


.32 


ESE 


. 5 


...do 


Eain and heavy sea. 




7 p. m. 


35 


.20 


ESE 


- 2 


... do 


Rain during night. 


Do 


14, 7 a. m. 


37 


.01 


SSW 


2 


Cloudy 


Fog. 




m. 


42 


28.98 


S 


-.3 


....do" 






7 p. m. 


38 


29.04 


NW . . . 


. 2 i....do 




Do 


15, 7 a. ra. 


35 


.04 


N. by W. . 


. -5 


Overcast 






ra. 


38 


.34 


N........ 


. 7 


Cloudy 

Few clouds 






7 p. ra. 


30 


.65 


N 


..5 




Do 


i 16, 7 a. ra. 


24 


1 .84 


N. byW. 


-.3 


Cloudy 






m. 


30 


' .74 


NW 


. 3 


....do 


3 p. m. ring around sun. 




1 7p. m. 


30 


i .78 


NNW 


.1 


....do 




Do 


17, 7 a. m. 


24 


! .76 


) NNE .... 


..1 


....do 






ra. 


31 


1 ..70 


W. bvN. 


.1 


....do 






7 p. ra. 


28 


.62 


1 WSW 


..1 


Few clouds . 




4th Enc't. 


1 18, 7 a. m. 


30 


.46 


S 


.3 


Overcast 




Lat. 64° 4(i'.5 N 


m. 


32 


.45 


1 S 


. 2 


.. do 




Long. 87° 14' \V 


7 p.m. 


28 


.32 


ESE 


..3 


.. do 




S. Ex. i 


11 31 















482 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



Septembek — October, 1864. 



Locality. 



4th Enc't. 
Lat. 640 4C'.5]Sr. 
Long.STo 14' W. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Moved to 5th 

Enc't. 

iLat. 640 4G'.3N'. 

iLoiiK.87014' "W. 

t)o 



Date. 



Ther. 



Aneroid 
Bar, 



Do. 



1864. 
Sept 19, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. m. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

21, 7 a. m. 



7 
22,7 

7 
23,7 

7 
24,7 

7 
25,7 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. ra. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



7 p. m. 

26, 7 a. ni. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 

27, 7.a. m. 

m. 
7p.m. 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. in. 

29, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

30, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

Oct. 1, 6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

2, 6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

3,6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

4, 6 a. m. 

m. 
Cp. m. 

5, G a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

6, 6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p.m. 

7, a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

8,6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

9, « a. m. 

ni. 

6 p.m. 

10, 6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 

11,6 a. m. 

m. 

6 p. m. 



30 
30 
30 

28 
32 
28 

26 
29 
30 
31 
32 
32 
35 
36 
32 
33 
35 
32 
32 
32 

30 
29 
31 
30 
27 
29 
28 
25 
28 
26 
26 
32 
30 
32 
32 
33 
32 
36 
34 
32 
32 
30 
22 
26 
24 
24 
30 
30 
29 
29 
40? 
20 
26 
26 
15 
15 
13 
12 
10 
6 
16 
20 
19 

17 
17 
16 
16 
11 
12 



In. 
29.28 
.36 
.48 
.64 
.70 
.73 

.67 
.62 
.62 
.57 
.58 
.58 
.59 
.58 
.60 
.58 
.56 
.58 
.58 
.50 

.41 
.38 
.36 
.35 
.50 
.49 
.45 
.41 
.34 
.46 
.56 
.58 
.60 
.52 
.49 
.46 
.48 
.44 
.44 
.47 
.51 
.61 
.64 
.55 
.50 
.44 
.45 
.44 
.02 

28.70 
.56 
.90 
.90 

29.02 
.20 
.40 
.50 
.63 
.66 
.64 
.56 
.61 
.58 

.30 
.20 
.20 
. 53 
.64 
.75 



Wind. 



NE 2 

NE. byE...3 
NE. byE...5 

NE 4 

N 4 

N 5 

N 5 

N 6 

N 5 

inSTE 6 

N. bvE 4 

N 2 

S 1 

S 1 

Calm 

S. by W 1 

SW 1 

Calm 

NIj; 2 

ISTNE 6 

N 7 

NNW 4 

NW 6 

NW 4 

N. bvW....2 

NNW 4 

N 5 

NNW 3 

NW. byN. .3 

NW 4 

W 2 

SW... 2 

SW 2 

S 3 

SSE 2 

NNE 1 

S. by E - . . . 1 

SE 2 

SSE 2 

S 2 

N"W 4 

N. by ■W....4 
NW 1 

i NNE 1 

S. by "W 1 

SW 2 

SW 1 

SE 2 

E 9 

NE 9 

I NNW 10 

WNW 11 

NW 9 

NW 8 

NW 9 

NW 9 

NW 8 

NW 5 

NW 4 

NW 1 

ENE .3 

NE 3 

N. byE 4 

N. bvE 5 

N.by E 7 

N 8 

NNE 7 

N 5 

N.byE 4 



Sky. 



Overcaat. 
...do .... 
Cloudy . . 

— do 

Overcast. 
Cloudy . . 

Overcast. 

Misty 

...do 

Gloomy . . 
Overcast. 
...do . .. 
...do ... 
.. do .... 
...do .... 
...do .... 
...do .... 
Cloudy . 

. . do 

Overcast. 



...do 

...do 

do 

Cloudy 

...do 

Overcast . . 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

...do 

Cloudy 

...do 

..do 

Overcast 

...do 

..do 

Fog 

Few clouds 
Overcast . . 

Fog 

Rain 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 
Overcasit . . 

. do 

. do 

. do 

Heavy snow 

.do 

..do 

Snow-dril't . . 

..do 



do 

do 

do 

do 

Few clouds 

.. do 

Clear 

Overcast . . . 
Cloudy .... 
Overcast... 



.. do 

..do 

.. do 

... do 

Very cloudy 
. . . do 



Eemarks. 



Snow-squalls in afternoon. Au- 
rora at night. 
Light snow. 



Snow and raiu. 



Spit snow now and then. 

Spit snow. fnight. 

Spit snow J in. Snow during the 



Snow. .Sun out for one hour this 

a. m. 
Snow. 



Snow began 1 p. m. 



9 a. ni. fog cleared. 
Beautiful weather. 
4 p. 111. bigan to cloud up. 
Rain during night. 
Rain began at 9 a. m., ceased at 
[2 p. m. 
Hazy. 



Spitting snow. 
Spitting Know. 
Spitting snow, 
Galu with snow begun at midnight. 



Gale ceased at 7. 

Ther. lowest in the night, 3°. 

At 7 p. m. fine raiu. Ther. 16°. 

Heavy snow began Bt 6 a. m. 
Heavy snow. 
Heavy snow. 
Snow-drift. 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 

October — November, 1864. 



483 



Loca3ity. 



Date. 



.Oth Enc't. 
L.at. 04°46'.3N. 
Long. 87° 14' "W. 
Do 



Do . 
Do.. 
Do . 
Do.. 
Do.. 



Do ... 
Do.... 
Do..-. 



Do. 
Do 
Do. 



Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 



1864. 
Oct. 12, 6 a. 

6p. 

13, 6 a. 

6 p. 

14, 6 a. 

6p. 
15, 6 a. 

6p. 
16, 6 a. 

6p. 
17, 6 a. 

6 p. 
18, 6 a. 



6p. 1 

19, 6 a. ] 

1 

6p. I 

20, 6 a. 1 

1 
6p. ! 

21, 6 a. 1 

1 
6p. 1 

22, 6 a. 1 

24, 6p. 1 

25, 6 a. ! 

1 
6p. ] 

26, 6 a. ] 

1 

6p. ] 

27, 6 a. 1 

1 

6p. ] 

28, 6 a. 1 

] 

6p. 1 

29, 6 a. 1 

] 

6 p. 1 

30, 6 a. 1 

I 

6p. ] 

31,6 a. 1 



Do Nor. 1,7 a. 

Do i 



6 p. m. 



7p.] 
2, 7 a. 1 



Do. 
Do. 
Do. 



7p., 

3, 7 a. 1 

1 
7p.i 

4, 7 a. 1 

] 

7p.i 

5, 7 a. 1 

1 
7p., 



Ther. 



JAneroiil, 
Bav. 



"Wind. 



5 
12 
13 
26 
30 
28 
27 
30 
28 
30 
32 
31 

9 
18 

2 

1 
12 

2 
20 
13 



16 


11 
18 

3 

3 

5 
15 

6 
15 
20 
26 
16 

■ 18 
. 21 

21 
10 
12 

■ 7 
1 


■ 7 
2 

. 10 

. 7 



■ 10 
. 10 

1 

• 14 

3 
15 
17 
25 
28 
25 
10 
11 

■ 1.5 

■ 10 

■ 15 

■ 31 

• 36 
15 

■ 2 
2 

13 
7 



In. 

29.96 
.98 
.98 

30.00 
.00 
.02 

29.99 
.99 

30.00 
.02 
.01 
.03 
.18 
.21 
.24 
.24 
.19 
.16 
.22 
.20 



.36 
.26 

29.99 
.70 
.90 

30.00 

29.94 
.76 
.65 
.62 
.60 
.90 

30.36 
.47 
.56 



.60 
.52 
.46 
.42 
.45 
.45 
.46 
.46 
.44 
.42 
.32 
.32 
.22 
.06 
.00 
29.87 
.40 
.20 
.18 
.19 
.19 
.18 
.18 
.23 

.2.T 

.30 
.30 
.23 
.10 
.10 
.12 



N 4 

N 3 

N. byE 1 

SE .. 1 

SE 3 

SSE 5 

SE 5 

SE 5 

SSE 6 

SE 6 

SSE 5 

S.byE 5 

NE'. 2 

N.bvE 2 

'S'S^ 1 

SW 2 

"WSW 1 

NNW 2 

N.byE 4 

N.byE 6 



N 6 

SW 2 

SW 7 

NNW 6 

ISTNW 8 

NNW 8 

NNW 5 

N. byE 3 

N 

N 

N. by W 
OTSrCV. . 

N 

N.byE 

N 

N" 

N.byE 4 

N.byE... 3 

N 2 

N. byE.... 2 

N 4 

NNE 2 

N. by W....1 
N. bv"W....3 

N..; 2 

N 3 

NNW 2 

N 1 

Calm 

W 1 

SW 3 

S 2 

SW 4 

S. by W 6 

SW 8 

WSW 5 

SW 4 

WSW 5 

RW 5 

NW 3 

NW 3 

NW 2 

NW ... 1 
N. byE ....3 

NE." 4 

N. by W... 8 

N 7 

E 1 



Sky. 



Kemarks . 



Cloudy 

Overcast. .. 
...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 
do 



...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

Overcast . . 
Cloudy 



Few clouds 

Cloudy i 

Overcast . . 

... do i 

Cloudy 

do 

Few clouds . 

...do I 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 

.- do 

Cloudy - 

— do j 

Few clouds . | 

Clear I 

Cloudy I 

do 

Few clouds . 1 

Cloudy i 

— do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 
. . do . . . 
Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

Clear'. 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 
Overcast . - . 

..do 

... do 

...do 

Snow 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

do 

Few clouds 

do 

Overcast. . . 

...do 

...do 

Snow-drift . 
Overcast . . 
Cloudv . - . 

.do" 

Few clouds 



Light snow between 9 and 10 a. m. 

Snow began at 2 p. m. 

Snow. 

Snow, less than J inch. 



Thick ''liost-smoke" and "fog- 
eater" (foirbow) this a. m. 
Aurora. "Frost-smoke" tiUOp.m. 
Same as morning of 16th. 

Aurora. 

Between 2 and 3 p. m. snow fell. 
The large thermometeis stand 
this evening, one at 5°, the 
other at 6°^ while two small 
ones stand at 11°. I must keep 
register of each separately. 

Aurora. 

Snow began 9 a. m. and ended 5 
[p.m. 
Snow-drift. 
Snow-drift. 
Aurora. Gale ended at 4 p. m. 



Aurora. 
[No record.] 

Aurora not so fine as usual. 

Aurora not so fine as usual. 



1 J), m., sun.dogs. 
Aurora. 

Fog. "Fog-eater" (fog-bow) at 
m. and for some time p. m. Fog 
or frost-smoke nearly all day. 



Snow-drift. 

Aurora. Ther. lowest -f- 25°. 



Snow. Aurora. 
Snow and drift . 



Sun shiuin" from 11 a. m. to 2 p. m. 
through flviuir drift and falling 
snow lip ;:nd f.ir nut from land. 



484 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 

November, 1864. 



Locality. 



Date. 



5th Eiio't. 

Lat. «U0 46'.3N. 

Lons.87oi4' W. 

I 1)0 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



6tli Enc't Olio ' 
mile south of 
5th Enc't. 

Lat. C4°45'.8N. 

Long. 87° 20' W. 



Do. 



1864. 
Nov. 6, 7 a. 1 

7p.: 

7, 7 a. : 

7p. 

8, 7 a. : 

711.; 

9, 7 a. 

7p. 

10, 7 a. 

7 p. 

11, 7 a. 

7 p. 

12, 7 a. 

7 p. 

13, 7 a. 

7p. 

14, 7 a. 

7 p. 

15, 7 a. 

7 p. 

16, 7 a. 

7 p. 

17, 7 a. 
7p. 

18, 7 a. 

7 p. 
1 19, 7 a. 



Ther. 



18 
5 

- 9 

- 3 



-1.5 

-12 

-24 

-6.5 

-25 

-25 

-10 

-24 

-20 

-11.5 

-18.5 

-22.5 

-19.5 

-22.5 

-29.5 

-16 

-27 

-21.5 

-14.5 

- 8 

-15.5 

-11 

-2.5 

14.5 

20 

20 

18.75 
14 
9 

7 

4 

-11.5 



—10 



Aneroid 
Bar. 



In. 

29.22 
.28 
.34 
.39 
.43 
.34 
.63 
.70 
.87 
.01 
.04 
.04 

30.02 

29.97 
.85 
.89 
.89 
.95 

30.09 
.13 
.18 
.19 
.19 
.19 
.20 
.14 
.12 
.11 
.12 
.10 

29.98 
.93 
.80 

.75 
.78 
.84 

.79 
.78 
.83 
.86 
.92 



"Wind. 



WKW 6 

srw 3 

STV 3 

SSW 6 

SW 4 

WS"W 4 

NW 3 

NW 5 

NW 1 

W 1 

WNW 1 

NW 1 

W 1 

Calm 

N. hvW....3 
N. by W . . 4 

N 6 

N 5 

NNW 5 

N. byW... 5 

N 4 

NNE 4 

N 4 

N 2 

N 2 

W 2 

W 2 

WNW 1 

WSW 2 

WSW 2 

SE 6 

S. byE 3 

SE 6 

SE 7 

SE 6 

NNE 2 

N.byE 4 

N.byE 6 

N.b'vE 4 

NNE 6 

NNE 8 



Sky. 



Cloudy 

Few clouds . 

Clear 

...do 

...do 

..-do 

Fc/w clouds 

Clear 

...do 

Few clouds 

Clear 

-..do 

Few clouds - 

Cloudy 

do 

Few clouds . 

Clear 

-.-do 

Few clouds . 

...do 

..do 

...do 

Cloudy 

...do'. 

--.do 

Overcast . . . 

...do 

Froslsinoko 
Overcast . . 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 

..do 



do 
do 
.do 



...do .... 
Cloudy 
Clear .... 
Overcast - 
Snow 



Kemarks. 



Frost-smoke. 



Aurora. 
Aurora. 



Snow-drift. 



Frost- smoke. 
Frost-smoke. 
Fiost-smoko. 



Mistv. 



Snow. 
Snow. 



Snow. 
Aurora. 



Drift. 



* No sign jirefixod in Hall's MSS. 

t For the hrst nineteen days of this month two records were kept, tlio second of which follows. 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



485 



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486 



IlaWs MeteorologicaJ Journal. 



> 

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!2; 






o 
12; 



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1 


Frost-smoke. 

Snow at 5 p. m. for J hour. 
Misty. 

Snow. 
Snow. 

Snow. 

Aurora belt 2° wide, from horizon NW. to horizon 
[SE., through the zenith, continuing 5 minutes. 
Snow-drift and peihai>s snow. 

Sun-dogs, for on(> hour, when sun rose. 
When sun set, glorious .sky opposite from horizon 
up 15°. Aurora lik<' one on eve of the 18th. 

Aurora belt similar to that of the 18th, with rays 
[from W. to SE. 

Aurora. 
Hall sick. 

Snow. 

Hall sick. 

Observed by Too-koo-li-too. 
Observed by Too-koo-li-too. 

Hall sick. 
Aurora. 


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488 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



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33 







HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



489 



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reased 
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NW. 
44°. 

No.O. 




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haps snow, 
baps snow, 
liaps snow. 
o. 7 ther. mar 

ht, -39°, by t 
moon. 

t last night, - 
fine display. 

liSW.toNE. 


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oke. 

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a very 
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By 9 p. m 

to a m 

the nig 

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Snow-dri 

Aurora. 

Snow-dri 

Snow-dri 

Suow-ari 

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Frost-.sm 

Aurora. 

Lowest 1 

Halo abo 

Frost-sm 

Aurora. 

Aurora. 

Aurora ; 
Mercury 

Aurora ; 




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last night, — 26°. 

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503 



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3 ^J£:Sc. c.a.ti 
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HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



505 



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506 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 

July— August, 1865. 



Locality. 



22d Encamp- 
ment; lat.6B° 
19' N., long. 
85° 29' "W. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do 



Date. 



1865. 
July 17, 6 a. 

3 p. 

7 p. 

18, 6 a. 



19, 



20, 



3 p. 

7 p. 

6 a. 

3 p. 

7 p. 

6 a. 

3 p. 

7 p. 



21, 6 a. m. 
22, 



3 p. 

7 p. 
, Ca. 



23, 



24, 



3 p.] 
7p.i 

6 a. 1 

] 
3p. 1 

7 p.] 
6 a. 1 



Aug. 



3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

25, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

26, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 

27, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 

28, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p. m. 

29, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

30, 6 a. m. 

III. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 

lil, a. m. 

m. 
3 p. in. 
7 p. m. 

1, 6 a. m. 

jn. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

2, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

3, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p. m. 



Ther. 3.1 Bar. 



In. 
29.91 



30.03 



.19 
.28 
.33 
.40 
.55 
.56 
.54 
.52 
.50 
.43 
.37 
.12 
.24 
.30 
.35 
.36 



.22 
.22 
.20 
.16 
.15 
.10 
.00 
29.54 



.50 
.48 
.48 
.60 
.71 
.80 
.93 

30.08 
.10 
.17 
.23 
.30 
.32 
.35 
.44 
.50 
.44 
.43 
.40 
.31 
.13 
.00 
.03 
.05 
.03 
.04 
.06 
.08 
.04 
.02 
.02 

29.94 
.92 



.96 
.98 
.92 
.92 
.92 
.84 



Wind. 



NW.. 

N 

NNE , 



ira"E . 

NNE 
NE... 
Calm . 
Calm . 
Calm . 
SSW.. 

SE 

SE ... 

SE 

SE 

NN"W 
NNW , 
NNW . 
NW ... 
NW .. 



"W 

NW.. 

N 

NNW . 

W 

SE .... 

SE 

SE 



SE 

S 

NNW . 
NNW . 
sw ... 
NW... 
NW ... 
NW... 
NW ... 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NE . . . . 
F 

ss'w" ' '. 

SE .. . 
Calm . . 
SSW .. 
SSW . 

SE 

NNW . 
NNW . 
NW ... 
NW ... 
SW ... 
SSW .. 
SSW .. 
SSW .. 

SE 

SE 

SSW .. 
SW . . . . 
Calm . 
Calm . . 
Calm . . 

N 

NW ... 
WNW. 
NNE.. 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NW... 
NW... 



Sky. 



Cloudy 

— do 

Few clouds 



Few clouds 

. . do 

Cloudy .... 

Clear 

Few clouds 
Cloudy 

v. Ao .'.'.'.'.'. 

do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy 

do , 

..-do 

...do 

Few clouds 



Cloudy . . 

V.Ao .'.'.'. 
..do.... 
...do.... 
...do .... 
Overcast . 
...do .... 



.. do 

...do 

.. do 

...do , 

.- do 

Cloudy .... 
Few clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast . . . 

...do 

.- do , 

Cloudy 

...do 

.. do 

Ffiw clouds 

...do 

.. do 

..do 



Clear 

Cloudy .... 

...do , 

.. do 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do , 

Cloudy .... 



Cloudy 

Overcast 

.. do 



Kemarks. 



Overcast 

..do 

Few clouds 

. do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

..do 

Cloudy 

.. do 



Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 39°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 40°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 



Fog. 

Ther. lowest last night, 39°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 37°. 



Fog; passing showers, thunder, 
and lightning ; ther. lowest last 
night, 39°. 

Fog; misty. 

Fog ; drizzling rain. 

Fog ; drizzling rain. 

Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 34°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 
Drizzling rain. 
Drizzling rain. 
Drizzling rain. 
Ther. lowest last night, 34°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 



Hazy. 

Ther. lowest last night, 33°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 36°. 



Hazy. 



Fog; misty; ther. lowest last 

Fog; misty. [night, , 36°. 

Fog. 

Fog. 

Ther. lowest last night, 85°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 39°. 
Kain. 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 

August, 1865. 



507 



Locality. 



[ 

22d Enc't. 
Lat. 60° 19' N. 
Long. 85° 29' W. 

Do 



Do. 



Do. 



*0n jouraey to 
I 23d Enc't. 
I "23d Enc't. 
iLat. 66° 30' N. 
'Long. 86° 3'W. 

Do 



Do 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Date. 



1805. 

Aug. 4, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 

5, 6 a. ra. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

6, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p.m. 

7 p.m. 

7, 6 a. m. 



*3 p. m. 
**7 p. m. 

8, e a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

9, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

10, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

11, 6 a. m. 



3 p.m. 
7 p. m. 

12, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

13, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 

14, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

15, G a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

16, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 

17, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

18, C a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

19, C a. m. 

m. 
3 i>. m. 
7 p.m. 

20, 6 a. m. 



3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 



Ther. 3. 


Bar. 





In. 


33 


29.82 


45 


.78 


42 


.80 


35 


.84 


32 


.92 


44 


.84 


46 


.84 


40 


.85 


32 


30.00 


44 


29. 98 ■ 


44 


.96 


36 


.92 


37 


.74 


47 


.70 


45 


.67 


40 


.60 


38 


.53 


45 


.60 


47 


.64 


44 


.68 


38 


.70 


45 


.67 


50 


.70 


41 


.82 


40 


.90 


42 


.95 


44 


30.02 


40 


.10 


36 


.26 


37 


.30 


39 


.30 


35 


.38 


35 


.45 


46 


.42 


43 


.42 


38 


.45 


40 


.35 


42 


.30 


42 


.28 


40 


.25 


39 


.11 


44 


.08 


42 


.08 


40 


.10 


38 


.12 


48 


.14 


46 


.14 


42 


.10 


42 


.18 


48 


.15 


46 


.14 


42 


.14 


36 


.18 


50 


.08 


44 


.06 


38 


.09 


38 


.20 


50 


.24 


51 


.25 


40 


.33 


39 


.35 


47 


.41 


50 


.46 


42 


.50 


40 


..50 


44 


.52 


42 


..52 


40 


.54 



"Wind. 



KNW 6 

NNW 5 

NNW 3 

WW 4 

NW 2 

S 2 

S 3 

S 2 

wsw !'.!'.!'2 

ssw 2 

SS"W 2 

SE 4 

S 1 

SE a 

SE 3 

NE 4 

NW 3 

NW 5 

N 

SE 3 

W 5 

"W 5 

W 6 

W 6 

WSW 5 

SW 4 

SW 4 

S"W 2 

SSE 3 

SE 4 

SE 4 

ESE 3 

ENE 2 

NE 2 

E 3 

E 2 

ENE 3 

imE 3 

NE 4 

NE 4 

NNE 3 

ENE 2 

SW 1 

SSW 1 

ESE 2 

SSE 2 

SSE 2 

ESE 2 

WSW 1 

W. byS..-.3 

SW 3 

SSW 3 

SE 1 

E 5 

E 6 

ENE 4 

ENE 3 

ENE 2 

NE 3 

E 5 

NE 2 

NE 1 

W 1 

WNW 1 

E 1 

SW 2 

SW 3 

SW 1 



Sky. 



Cloudy . . . . 

. . do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

..-do 

Overcast . . - 

Cloudy 

...do 

...do 

Overcast. . . 

Cloudy 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

...do...... 

...do 

Overcast . . . 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

Eew clouds 
Overcast . . . 
Cloudy 

'.! do .'.'.'.'.'. 
Few clouds 

...do 

Overcast... 

. . do 

...do 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

..do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

Cloud V 

Few clouds 

do 

Cloudy 



Kemarks. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32". 
Ther. lowest last night, 28°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 31°. 



8 p. m., ram. 

Eain ; fog ; ther. lowest last night, 

34°. 
Fog ; great refraction. 
Kam. 
Kain. 
Ther. lowest last night, 35°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 34°. 
Sprinkling now and then. 
Ther. lowest last night, 36°. 



Kain; ther. lowest last night, 

36°. 
Rain. 

Rain. 

Rain; fog; ther. lowest last night, 

33°. 
Rain ; 
Rain; 
Rain; 
Rain; 
Rain. 
Rain. 
Rain. 
Rain; 

39°. 
Rain. 



fog. 

fog. 

ebb tide sets to the SSE. 

ther. lowest last night, 38°. 



ther. lowest last night. 



Fog 
I'og 



Ther. lowest last night, 40°. 

Ther. lowest last night, 36°. 

Rain. 

Raiu ; thor. lowest last night, 38°. 

Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 37°. 
Fog. 



508 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



August-^September, 1865. 



Locality. 



Date. 



Ther. 3. Bar. 



Wind. 



Sky. 



Eemarks. 



23d Eno't. 

Lat. 66° 30' N. 

Long. 80° 3'W. 



24th Enc't. 
Lat. 66° 20' N. 
Long. 86° 18' "W. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



Do. 



1865. 
Aug. 21, 6 a. m. 
m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 
22, 6 a. m. 
m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 
23, 6 a. m. 
m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 
24, 6 a. m. 
in. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 
25, 6 a. m. 
in. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

26, 6 a. m. 
m. 

3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

27, 6 a. m. 
m. 

3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

28, 6 a. m. 
m. 

3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

29, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

30, 6 a. m. 
m. 

3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

31, 6 a. m. 



Do 



Do. 



Sept. 



3 p.m. 
7 p.m. 

1, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

2, G a. m. 

m. 
3 p. ra. 



Do 

25th Enc't. 
Lat. 06° 30' N. 
Lon(r.86°44'W, 

Do 



26th Enc't, Fort 

H()i)o. 
Lat. 66031' N. 
Lonft.SOoSG'W. 
1)0 



Do. 



7 p. m. 


40 


3, 6 a. 111. 


33 


Ul. 




4, 6 a. ra. 


27 


m. 


44 


3 p. Ul. 


44 


7 p.m. 


37 


Tt, 6 a. m. 


25 


m. 


42 


3 p. m. 


40 


7 p. m. 


34 


6, a. ni. 


26 


III. 


48 


3 p. in. 


48 


7 p. m. 


36 


7, 6 a. ni. 


35 


Ul. 


47 


3 p.m. 


."iO 


7 p. m. 


40 



In. 

30.57 
.57 
.61 
.65 
.62 
.58 
.46 
.48 
.34 
.22 
.10 
.20 
.12 

29.94 
.92 

30.00 
.00 
.01 
.02 
.02 
.19 
.24 
.30 
.36 
.40 
.43 
.42 
.46 
.52 
.43 
.40 
.36 
.10 

.10 
.10 
.11 
.32 
.32 
.32 
..SO 
.24 
.14 
.14 
.20 
.30 
.32 
.34 
.34 
.48 
.50 
.48 
.48 
.58 



SW.. 

ssw 

SSE . 
Calm 
S .... 
SW.. 
E... 
E... 
E... 

E 

E 



Overcast 
...do .... 
Cloudy . . 



WTSrW 1 

Cahu 

SE 2 

SE(?) 1 

Calm 

SE. 
SE. 



...1 
...1 

NNW 5 

NNW 2 

NW 3 

NNW 5 

NNW 3 

NNW 4 

NNW 5 

N.by W....5 
N. by W....5 

W 1 

SSE 3 

S 5 

S 6 

SE 5 

SE 4 

SE 2 

NW 6 

NNW 3 



SW 

SSW 

SSW 

SE..., 

SE... 

NE.. 

NE . 

NNE 3 

SE 2 

NW 1 

NW 1 

NNW 5 

NNW 3 

SW 1 

Calm 

NNW 3 



SE 

SE 

SE 

SE 

Calm . . 

SE 

SE 

SE 

Calm .. 

E 

E. 

E. 

E. 



...4 
...3 
...3 
.. 1 



.2 
1 
.1 
.1 

ESE 2 

AV 2 

W 3 



Cloudy 

Few clouds . 
...do 



Cloudy 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

Cloudy . . . . 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

..do 

...do 

...do ...... 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 



Overcast 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

.. do 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

do 

.. do 

Overcast . . . 
Few clouds 

Cloudy 

Few ciouda 
Cloudy .... 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 



....do 

...do 

... do 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy — 

do 

Few clouds 
Clear 



Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 



Fog; 5 p. m., fog-bow. 

Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 36°. 

Fog. 



Fog; ther. lowest last night, 35°. 
Fog. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 34°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 33°. 
Broke other large thermometer. 



Ther. lowest last night, 37°. 
A little rain. 



Ther. lowest last night, 27°. 



Eain ; fog ; ther. lowest last 

night, 34°. 
Eain; fog. 
Eain. 

Ther. lowest last night, 33°. 



Fog. 

Fog; ther. lowest last night, 37°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 36°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 5. 
Snow. 



Ther. lowest last night, 33°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 
Ilalo round sun from 8 to 10. 



Ther. lowest last night, 25°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 25°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 28°. 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 

September, 1865. 



509 



Locality. 



26th Enc't, Fort 

Hope. 
Lat. 660 3VN. 
Lonsi. 86°56'W. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Do. 



Do. 



Do 



Do 



Do. 



Date. 



1865. 
Sept. 8,6 

3 

7 



3 

7 

10,6 

3 

7 
11,7 
12,6 



a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
13, 6 a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 
a. m. 
p. nv 
a. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 



3 

7 
14,6 
16,7 

7 
17,7 

7 
18,7 

3 

7 
19,7 

3 

7 
20,7 

3 

7 
21,7 

3 

7 
22,6 

3 

7 
23,6 

3 

7 

24,6 



p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 



m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 

25, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p. m. 

26, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

27, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 

28, 6 a. m. 

m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 

29, 6 a. m. 

m. 
3 p.m. 
7 p. m. 



Ther. 3. 



22 



Bar. 



In. 

30.54 
.45 
.39 
.34 

29.90 
.87 
.85 
.86 

30.04 



Wind. 



29.90 
.94 
.97 
.98 
.92 
.90 
.88 

30.06 
.02 

29.80 

30.00 
.02 
.20 



.30 
.40 
.46 
.46 
.48 
.50 
.48 
.48 
.50 
.38 



29. 82 
30.00 



.20 
.28 
.33 
.56 



.51 
.30 
.21 

.04 



E 

SE 

ESE.... 
ESE.... 
ESE... 
NW.... 
NW.... 
SW .... 
NW..-. 
SW .... 
WW .... 
N"W.... 
SSE .... 

SW 

sw 

s 



1 

2 
.4 
.6 
.2 
3 
4 
.4 
.6 
.5 
.4 
.1 
.3 
.3 
.4 
4 

SE 3 

SE 3 

ESE 2 

N 5 

W 5 

WSW 5 

WNW 4 

"W 3 

NW 6 

NW 5 

NW 5 

NW 5 

N 2 

N 4 

N 5 

NITW 2 

NW 3 

NW 5 

NW 6 

NW 6 

NW 6 

NW 7 

NW 7 

NW 6 

NW 5 

NW 5 

NW 4 

N. by W... 2 

SE 3 

SE 4 

SE 5 

E 1 

NW 10 

10 



NW .. 

msrw 

N. by ^....8 

NNW 5 

N 3 

N 3 

ENE 1 

SE 1 

SE 3 

SE 4 

SE 4 

29.98 j >r. bv"W....4 

I NNW 7 

I NW 9 

30.30 I NW 10 

.66 NNW 5 

'NNW 4 

t N]^r^y 4 

.80 ; N. by"W....2 

.78 1 NW 2 

I NW 1 

t SE 1 

.60 E 1 



Sky. 



Overcast . 
...do.... 



Overcast — 

..do 

..do 

Few clouds 
Cloudy ... 

do 

Clear 

Overcast 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

....do 

Cloudy 

Overcast. . . 
Cloudy 



Cloudy 

.. do^ 

Overcast .. 



Overcast. 
...do .... 



Cloudy .... 



Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast... 



Cloudy . . 
... do ... 
....do .... 

...do .... 
... do .... 
...do .... 

Overcast. 
... do ... 
... do .... 

.. do .... 



Overcast. 
Cloudy . . 

...do 

...do.... 
Overcast. 
.. do .... 
..do.... 
..do .... 
Cloudy . . 

do 

...do.... 
Overcast 



Remarks. 



Ther. lowest last night, 31°. 

Rain. 
Rain. 
Snow; ther. lowest last night, 32°. 

Mist. 
Rain. 
Ther. lowest last night, 28°. 



Rain. 
Rain. 
Ther. 
Ther. 

Ther. 

Ther. 
Snow. 
Snow. 



lowest last night, 25°. 
lowest last night, 24°. 

lowest last night, 26°. 

lowest last night, 23°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 18°. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. 1 



lowest last night, 18°. 
. lowest last night, 20°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 

Rain and snow. 

Rain and snow. 

Rain and snow. 

Drizzling rain and snow; ther. 

lowest last night, 20°. 
Drizzling rain and snow. 



Ther. lowest last night, 17°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 26°. 

Drizzling rain. 

Drizzling rain. 

Drizzling rain. 

Snow. 



Ther. lowest last night, 9°. 



510 



RalVs Meteorological Journal. 

September — October, 1865. 



Locality. 



Date. 



26th Enc't^ Foi-t Sept, 

Hope. 
Lat. 60° 31' N. 
Lone. 860 56'W. 
So 



Oct. 



Do. 

Do. 

Do.. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do, 

Do. 

Do 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 



1865. 

30. 6 a. : 

3 p.: 

7 p.; 
1,0 a.; 

7 p.; 

2, 7 a. : 

7p.i 
3, 7 a. 1 

1 

7p.] 

4, 7 a. J 

I 

7p.i 

5, 7 a. ! 

] 

7p.] 

6, 7 a. 1 

1 

7p.i 

7, 7 a. ! 

1 

7p.i 

8, 7 a. 1 

1 

7p.l 

9, 7 a. 1 

] 

7p.l 

10, 7 a. ] 

1 

7p.i 

11. 7 a. 1 

7p.: 

12, 7 a. : 

7p.: 

13, 7 a. 

7,..: 

14, 7 a. : 

7p.i 
15,7 a.: 

7 p. 
10, 7 a. 

7 p. 

17, 7 a. 

7 p. 

18, 7 a. 

7 p. 
19,7 a. 

7 p. 
20, 7 a. 



m. 

7 p. m. 

21, 7 a. m. I 

m.i 

7 p. m. ' 

22, 7 a. m. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 



Ther. 3. 



Bar. 



In. 

30.58 
.64 

" .72 
.55 
.72 
.70 
.70 



.55 
.47 
.38 
.25 
.00 

29.80 
.90 
.97 

30.07 
.00 

29.98 
.98 

30.20 
.20 
.26 
.22 
.23 
.26 
.34 
.36 
.38 
.45 
.45 
.46 
.38 
.32 
.36 
.30 
.32 
.34 
.50 
.53 
.54 
.56 
.50 
.37 

29.90 
.85 
.82 

30.05 
.12 
.15 
.10 
.07 
.02 

29.60 
.57 
.58 
.75 
.80 
.85 
.90 

.90 
.88 
.80 

.79 
.88 
30.12 
.20 
.24 



Wind. 



N. by W....2 

N 4 

N. by "W....5 
imW 5 



NW 
NW 

NE 

S. by "W . 

S 

S 

S. by E . . 

s..: 

S. by W . 

SSE 

SE 

SE 

NW 

NW 

lOfW ... 

N W 

NW 

NW 

N"W 

NW 

-KW 

SSW 

SSW 

S. by E . . 

SSE ".'.'.'.; 

NNE.... 

NW 

UW 

Nirw" ... 

uw 

NW 

N"W 

N 

N 

N". by E . 

N 

N .- 

NW 

N 

S 

SE 

SSW 5 

S. by W ... .4 

SSW 5 

NE 1 

W 3 

W 3 



ITNW 

NW... 

NW... 

SE 

SE 

SE .... 
E 

ene'"" 



NNW 8 

NNTV .... 10 
NNW .... 10 
NNW .... 10 

NNW 10 

NNW .... 10 

NNW 10 

NNW ... 10 
NNW .... 10 



Sky. 



Overcast 
Cloudy . . 
— do 



Overcaat. 
...do .... 
..do .... 
...do .... 
...do.... 
...do .... 
...do.... 

...do 

...do 

-..do 



Overcast 

Cloudy 

...do. 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Cloudy . . . . 

'"!.do ....... 

Overcast 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast ... 
do 



.. do 

... do 

... do 

...do 

Cloudy 

.. do 

...do 

... do 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

-.do 

Few clouds 
Overcast... 

..do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Overcast... 

.. do 

-.do 

...do 

Cloudy . . . 
Overcast... 
.. do 



Kemarks. 



Ther. lowest last night, 9°. 

Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 5°. 
Thor. lowest last night, 17°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 27°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 

Fog; rain. 

Karn. 

Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 30°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 26°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 23°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 14°. 
Fog; ther. lowest last night, 22°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 
Snow spitting at times. 

Ther. lowest last night, 19°. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 3°. 

Fog. 

Ther. lowest last night, 5°. 

Aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, 5°. 

Aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, 29°. 



...do 
..do 
. . do 

. . .do 
...do 
...do 
...do 
. . do . 



Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 



Snow j thor. lowest last night, 10°. 

Aurora. 

Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 4°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 26°. 



Snow and drift; thci-. lowest last 

night, 20°. 
Snow and drift. 
Snow and drift. 
Snow and drift; thi>r. lowest last 

night, 20°. 
Snow and drift. 
Snow and drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, 20°, 
Drift. 
Drift. 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 

October, 18G5. 



511 



Locality. 



Date. 





Ther. 3. 


Bar. 




o 


In. 


in. 


3 


30.40 


m. 


5 


.44 


m. 


4 


.48 


m. 


10 


.56 


m. 


18 


.58 


m. 


18 


.72 


m. 


18 


.80 


m. 


23 


.82 


m. 


17 


.85 


m. 


30 


.67 


m. 


29 


.55 


m. 


26 


.47 


m. 


23 


.30 


m. 


25 


.28 


m. 


20 


.24 



Wind. 



Sky. 



Kemarks. 



26th Enc't, Fort 
I Hope. 
Lat. 66° 31' N. 
Long. 86° 56' W. 



Do 
Do 
Do 



1865. 
Oct. 23, 7 a. 

7 p. 

24,7 a. 

7 p. 
25, 7 a. 

7 p. 
26, 7 a. 

7 p. 
27, 7 a. 

7 p. 



NNTV . 
NNW . 
NNW . 
lOTW . 
NNW . 

inrw . 

NW... 
KW... 
WNW. 

w 

SE 

N 

KNW . 

T^rsvf . 

NKW . 



Overcast . . 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

Clear 

.. do 

-.do 

Cloudy . . . . 

...do 

..do 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 



Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 3°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, SP. 

Drift; perhaps snowing. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, 18°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 



Drift; ther. lowest last night, 23°. 
Drift. 

Drift; discovered that ther. Xo. 3 
had air in the bulb. 



512 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



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HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



513 



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514 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



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516 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



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^33 



Hall's Meteorological Journal. 



521 



Makch, 1866. 



Locality. 



Date. 



iTher. 5. Bar. 



Wind. 



Sky. 



Remarks. 



29th Enc't. 
(Sanieas2Cth.) 
Lat. 66° 31' N. 
Long. 80° 50' W. 
1)0 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Do. 
Do- 
Do. 
Do 



Do. 

Do 
Do. 



18C0. 
Mar. 1, 9 a. iii. j 

3 p. m. I 

7 p. m. j 
2, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 
3, 9 a. m. t 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. j 

4, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p.m. 

5, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. I 

7 p. m. I 

C, 9 a. m. ] 

3 p. m. : 
7 p. m. ! 

7, 9 a. m. ; 
3 p. m. I 
7 p. m. ' 

8, 9 a. m. I 
3 p. m. i 
7 p. m. ' 

9, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 1 

7 p. m. 1 

10, 9 a. m. ' 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 
11, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 
12, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. I 

7 p. m. 
13, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 
14, 9 a. m. j 

3 p. m. 



7 p.m. 



3 p. m. ; 

7 p. m. 

19, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. j 
7 p. m. ■ 

20. 9 a. m. ! 
3 p. m. j 
7 p. m. 1 

■<J1, 9 a. m. ! 
3 p. m. j 
7 p. m. I 



— 36 

— 24 
.— 30 

— 32 

— 17 

— 31 

— 14 

— 12 

— 10 

— 19 

— 22 

— 24 

— 26 



15, 9 a. m. 


— 30 


3 p.m. 


— 19 


7 p. m. 


— 25 


16, 9 a. m. 


— 30 


3 p.m. 


— 16 


7 p. m. 


— 34 


17, 9 a. m. 


— 34 


3p. m. 


— 23 


7 p. m. 


— 20 


18, 9 a. m. 


— 6 



16 
16 ! 

22 j 

25 I 
20 I 

6 

5 

5 

4 

5 
12 



In. 

28.00 
.04 

27.95 

28.13 
.08 
.00 

27.60 
.52 
.40 
.53 
.58 
.60 
.70 



24 


.78 


24 


.86 


24 


.94 


19 


.94 


19 


.98 


26 


.96 


18 


.61 


16 


.42 


16 


26.98 


6 


.98 


10 


.98 


20 


.98 


21 


.98 


22 


.98 


23 


29.74 


16 


.76 


29 


.84 


30 


30.04 


22 


.02 


24 


39.82 


20 


.64 



W^'^V 1 

WNW 1 

"VTNW 1 

KJTW 1 

NW 1 

NNW 1 

SSE 4 

NW .... 3 

WNW 5 

NNW 4 

NNW 7 

NT^"W 9 

NXTV 9 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

KNW ... 7 

KXW 8 

NXW 7 

NifW 1 

Calm 

NW 1 

N 2 

NX w !;.... 4 

XW 5 

XW 8 

NXTV 8 

KlfW" 8 

iraW .... 5 ' 



.70 
.70 
.80 
.88 
.83 
.66 
.44 

.36 

.44 
.38 
.34 
.30 
.35 
.44 
.60 
.58 
.50 
.34 

.18 
.18 
.34 

.54 
.52 
.78 
.83 
.86 
30.14 
.52 
.52 



NTV. 



NNAV 1 

Calm 

E 2 

NW 4 

NNW 8 

XN"W 9 

ITNW 10 



E 

EX'E 
ENE 



Few clouds . 

Clear 

.-..do 

....do 

... do 

...do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

...do 

...do 

. - do . . . . 

Few clouds 

Clear 

...do 

Few clouds 



Clear 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

... do 

...do . 

Overcast . . 

...do 

Few clouds . 

...do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 



-10 

..7 
.10 



ENE 10 

ENE 6 

NNW 5 

NNTV 7 

NNW 7 

SSE 

SE 

NW 



I 

NE 2 

XNE 2 I 

XNW 4 

NNTV" 3 

NNW 2 I 

j XXW 6 ; 

i NNW 2 ' 

NNW 1 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

NW 1 

NNW 1 

SE 5 



Cloudy .... : 

Clear' 

Few clouds . ' 

Clear I 

Few clouds . ! 

....do t 

! 

. ...do 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds . 

Clear 

Few clouds . 
Overcast 



Ther. lowest last night, —36°. 



Ther. lowest last nicht, — 35°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —37°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —28°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, 

— 28°. 
Drift. 

Drift; aurora. 
Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 

—25°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 28°. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 16°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, 

— 20°. 
Drift. 
Dritt. 
Ther. lowest last night, —23°; 

barometer set at 29.74. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 35°. 



Drift; ther. lowest last night, 
—24°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 



Few clouds . 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Clear 

Few clouds . 

Clear 

Few clouds . 
Overcast 



Ther. lowest last night. — 35°. 

Snow; at7p. m. Xo."3ther., — 16°; 
No. 4 ther., — 16^; Xo. 5 ther., 
—10° ; No. 9 ther., -12°. 

Hazy ; really aurora diffused 
throughout the heavens. 

Ther. lowest last night, -30°. 

Fog ; halos about sun. 

Ther. lowest last nighi, —36°. 



Few clouds 

Cloudy 

. . do 

Overcast . . . 

Clear 

...do 

....do 



Aurora . 

Ther. lowest last night. —38^. 

Drift. 

Urilt, snow. 

Drift, snow: ther lowest last 

night, —20°. 
Drift, snow. 
Drift, snow. 
Snow and drift ; ther. lowest last 

night, — 10°. 
Snow and drift. 
Snow and drilt; aurora. 
Drift; ther. lowest Inst night, 4°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 6°. 



522 



HalPs Meteorological Journal. 

March — April, 1866. 



Locality. 



Date. 



Ther. 

I 5- 



Bar. 



"Wind. 



Sky. 



Eemarks. 



29th Enc't. 

(Same as 26th.) 

Lat. 60° 31' N. 

Long. 86° Se* W.l 



Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

30th Enc't. 

Lat. 66° 33' N. 

Long. 86° 56' "W. 



1866. 
Mar. 22, 9 a. 

3i>. 

7 p. 
23, 9 a. 

3 p. 

7 p. 

9 a. 



24 



3 p. 



Apr. 



Do 

Do I 

Do 

Do 

3l8t Enct. 

Lat. 60° 40' N. 

Long. 87° 4'.7W. 

Do 



Do 

32<1 Enct. 

Lat. 0(1° 47' N. 

Lons. 87° 10'.7 W. 



l)n 



Do 

33(1 Eiict. 

Lat. 66° 50' K. 

Lonj;. 87° 30' W. 



Do 



25, 9 ; 
3 p. lu. 
7 p. m. 

26, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

27, 9 a. m. 
3 p. 111. 
7 ]!. m. 

28, 9 a. m. 
3 ]). 111. 
7 p. m. 

29, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

30, 9 a. m. 
3 p. 111. 
7 J), m. 

31, 9 a, ui. 
3 p. ui. 
7 p. ni. 

1, 9 a. m. 
3 p m. 
7 p. m. 

2, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. in. 

3, 9 a. 111. 
3 p. m. 
7 !>. m. 

4, 9 a. m. 
3 ]). m. 
7 p. 111. 

5, 9 a. 111. 

3 ]>. 111. 
7 ]>. ni. 

6, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 

7, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 ]). ni. 

8, 9 a. 111. 
3 p. ni. 
7 p. m. 

9, 9 a. ni. 

3 p. m. 

7 II. 111. 
10,9 a. 111. 

3 ]). lu. 

7 I), m. 
11, 9 a. m. I 

3 p. ni. 

7 p. lu. ' 
12,9 a. m. 

3 p. ni. 

7 ]). 111. 
13, 9 a. m. 

3 p. ni. 
7 p. ui. 



° In. 

— 6 30. 54 

— 4 .50 

— 4 ' .47 

— 2 .36 

— 2 .08 

— 4 29. 97 

— 2 .88 
.80 
4 .84 
2 30. 02 

10 I .12 

4 1 .10 

10 . 12 

2 [ .22 

—10 i !22 

—12 .22 

-4 .22 

—10 .20 

—12 .10 

i .00 

—10 ; 29.90 

; .84 

10 ! ..'■)7 

8 . 50 

— 4 I .34 
2 , .42 

—10 . 60 

—20 .70 

—17 ' 

—20 ; 

—13 

— 5 ' 

^1:::::::: 
— 1 

— 2 i 



—10 

—10 , 

10 

13 

10 ; , 

— 6 

— 1 

— 7 

—10 I 

— 5 I 

—13 

—IS 

= ^:::::::: 

4 

9 . ... 


4 

—12 '...'.'.'.'.. 

—12 

—15 

—18 

22 

—20 ........ 

—18 

— 4 

— 7 



NNW 6 

K N"W 5 

NJJW 3 

NXW 1 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

E 1 

NjSTE 1 

NJS'AV 1 

Calm 

Calm . . 

NNW 4 

NNW 8 

NNAV 

NNW .-) 

NNW 

jS'XW 3 

NJJ^W 2 

SE 1 

SE 1 

SSE 1 

SE 3 

ESE 4 

NNW 3 

N. by W... 6 

NN\V 7 

NXW 5 

NXW 8 

NNW 8 

NNW 8 

NKAV 9 

NN\Y 8 

NNW 10 

NNW ... 10 

NNW 10 

NW 1 

NW 2 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

Calm 

E. 1 

NW 6 

NNW 4 

NNW 6 

KNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 

NNW 5 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

SE 2 

SE 

SE 

SE 

NNW 2 

NNW .•> 

NNW 5 

NNW 4 

NNW ......5 

NNW ....7.4 

NNW 5 

NKW 4 

NNW 

NNVV 8 

NNW 9 

NNW .... 10 



' Few clouds . 

Cloudy 

(Ivcrcii.^t 

Cloudy 

. . do 

j Ovt-rcast 

I . . do 

!....do 

I. ...do 

.. do 

do 

\ Cloudy 

] OvL'icast 

! do 

[ Eew clouds 

I . . do 

!....do 

do 

l Clear 

I Few clouds 
I Cloudy 

Overcast 

-. do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

. . do 

Few clouds 

.. do 

..do 



Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 
[—12°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —4°. 
Th<T. lowest last night, - 4°. 

Ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Fog. 

Ther. lowest last night,— 2°. 

Drift. 

Ther. hiwe.st last night, —18°. 
Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, -18°. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, -6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Thor. lowest last night, —20°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 24°. 



Drilt; ther. lowest last night,- 2°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —12°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —19°. 



Overcast .. 

Cloudy ... 

..do 

do 

Few clouds 
...do 

Clear 

...do 

....do 

Overcast . . I Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 
— 16°. 

Cloudy . ... I 

.. do ! 

Few clouds i Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 
I —12°. 

...do I Drift. 

do Drift. 

Cloudy Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 

....do I [-16°. 

Clear 

Few clouds . ' Ther. lowest last night, — 22°. 

Hazy 

Overcast ' 

...do Snow; ther. lowest la.st night, 

—4°. 

do Snow ; fog. 

do I Snow; fog. 

Cloudy ' Fog; ther. lowest last night. —4°. 

do 

do I 

do Fog; ther. lowest la.<t night, —16°. 

Few clouds 

.. do I 

do i Ther. lowest l;isl night, —2.'>°. 

Clear ' 

...do 

Cloudy ' Drift; ther. lowest last uight, 

—27°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 



HaWfi Meteorological Journal. 



528 



April-May, 1866. 



liemarks. 



3:id Enc"t. 
Lat. 66° 56' 
Lons. 87° 30' 



Do 

34th EDC't. 
Lat. 67° 4' X. 
Lons. 87°41' AV. 



Do 

Do 

Do 

35th Enc't. 
Lat. 67° 14' X. 
Lon;;. 87°3r W. 

Do 

36th Enc't. 
Lat. 67° 24' X. 
LODR. 87° 41' W. 



Do 



Do 

37th Enc't. 
Lat. 67° 37' X. 
Long. 88° 8' "VT. 



Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

"38th Euc't. 
Lat. 67° 49' X. 
Long. 88° 25' W. 

39th Enc't. 
Lat. (17° 53' X. 
Lons:. 88°25' '«'. 

»40th Enc't. 
Lat. 68° 00' X^. 
Long. 88° IQ* ^y. 

Do ilay 

Do 

Do 

Do 

4l8t Enc't, same 
as 30th Enc't. 
Do 

Do ! 

42d Enc't., same 
as 38th Enc't. 



i 1866. 

Apr. 14, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 
1.1, 9 a. m. 

3 ]). m. 

7 ]). m. 
16,0 a. TO. 

3 ji. m. 

7 ]). ni. 
17.9 a. m. 

3 ]). lu. 

7 p. m. 

18, 9 a. m. 
3 ]i. m. 
7 i>. m. 

19, 9 a. m. 
3 ]). m. 
7 p. m. 

•J(l, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 
21, 9 a. ni. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 
T2. 9 II. ni. 

3 ]). m. 

I p. ui. 

23, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m 

24. 9 a. ni. 
3 p. 111. 
7 p. m. 

25, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

26, 9 a. ra. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. m. 

27, 9 a. ni. 
3 p. m. 
7 p. ui. 

•28, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p. m. 
29, 9 a. m. 



-3 p. 


m. 






1 P 


m. 


30, 9 a. 


m. 


*3 p 


m. 


' P 


m. 

1 


1. 9 a. 


1 
m. ' 


3p 


m. 


7 p. 


m. 


3. 9 a. 


m. 


3p 


ni. 






"P 




4. 9 a. 


m. 


3 p. 


lU. 






' ]>• 


m. 


,5, 9 a. 


m. 


3 p. 


m. 


7 p. 


m. 


6, 9 a. 


m. 


3 p. 


in. 


' P- 


m. 


7, 9 a. 


m. 


3 p. 


m. 


7 p. 


m. 1 



In. 



18 



ESE. 



3 OviTCast 



8 
5 

- 8 
2 

- 4 

- 7 
3 

- 4 

- 6 
11 

4 

4 

7 

4 
14 
16 



4 

- 3 

- 4 
-10 

V 

12 j 

20 

9 

1 



6 

8 

-12 

10 

4 

-12 

10 

8 

8 

- 4 : 



-10 '• 
-U ! 

_ 2 

-10 

12 

2 I 

- 8 

I 

10 

12 
8 I 
32 i 

30 1 
30 
24 1 
20 ' 
20 
30 
19 
16 
21 
-14 
14 
20 
14 



ESE 2 

ESE 2 

XXW 4 

X 6 

X 7 

X 2 

XW 2 

XW 5 

XW 5 

WXW 4 

XW 6 

XW 5 

XAV .... 2 

WXW 3 

XW 3 

XW 2 

X\V 4 

XNW 3 

X'^W 2 

X\V 2 

X\V 1 

Calm 

SE .. 2 

SE 3 

W 3 

SW 4 

SSW 3 

SSW 3 

XX'W 2 

X 2 

X 1 

X 2 

X 3 

W 3 

W 3 

SE 4 

SW 1 

XW 2 

XW 4 

X'W 4 

XW 6 

x-n^ 8 



. . do 

. <l<) 

Few cloiula . 

Cloudv 

do' 

Few clouds 

. do 

. . . do 

Overcast 

do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

... do'. 

Overcast 



Few clouds . 

Clear 

...do 

Overcast 

Cloudy ... 

do .... 

. do 

..do 

.. do 

.- do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

... do 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

...Ao '.'..'.'. 
Overcast 



Cloudv 
...do'.. 



NXW 6 I Few clouds. 



XW 6 

WXW 5 

XXW 3 

X 2 

NW 1 



.. do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy 



XW ... 


...3 


w 


4 


w 


6 


E 


2 


E 


... 1 


E ... 


1 


XW... 


3 


w... 


... 2 


w 


. . 2 


w 


....5 


w 


....6 


w ... 


...4 


w 


5 


w 


... 6 


w 


4 


s 


....4 


w 


....7 



w. 



Cloudy .. 
Overcast. 



Snow; thcr. lowest last night, 

— 10^. 
Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night,— 21°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 12^. 
Ther. lowest last night, —9°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 4°. 
Ther. lowest last night,— 5°. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 12°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 14°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —2°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 2°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 12°. 
Ther. lowest last night. — 22°. 



Fog; ther. lowest last night, — 1'2°. 

Fog; snow. 

Fog; snow. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, — 7°. 

Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 

— 15°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 12°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —10°. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night. 20°. 



Overcast. 
... do .... 

.. do .... 

- . do j Snow : ther. lowest la.st night , 27°. 

Cloudy 

....do 

do I Ther. lowest last night, 14°. 

do I 

....do 

Overcast .. ! Ther. lowest hist niglit, 12°. 
...do ! Drift. 

. do ! 

Cloudy Ther. lowest hist night, 12°. 

-. do I Drift, snow. 

...do Drift. 



524 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



May— June, 1866. 



Locality. 


Date. 


'^\^^-\ Bar. Wind. 

5. 1 


Sky. 


Remarks. 




1866. 





In. 










42d Enc't, same 


May 8, 9 a. m. 


14 




■w 


..6 


Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last night, 11°. 


as 3Sth Enc't. 


*3 p. ni. 


36 




"W .. 


-.1 


....do 




*43d Eiic't. 


7 p.m. 


18 




SE 


..1 


Overcast 


Snow. 


Lat. 07040' N. 


9, 9 a. m. 


10 




NNW .... 


.4 


Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last night, 3°. 


Lons. 88° 17' W. 


*3 p. m. 


12 




N 


-.5 


Overcast 


Snow. 


*44th Enc't. 


7 p.m. 


10 




K 


..7 


.-..do 


Drift. 


Lat. 670 32' N. 


10, 9 a. m. 


14 




N"W 


-.7 


.-..do 


Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 10°. 


Long. 87° 53' W. 


3 p. m. 


12 




aw 


. 5 


...do 






7 p.m. 


10 




NW 


. 3 


...do 




Do 


11, 9 a. m. 


18 




NNW .... 


. 3 


...do 


Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 11°. 


4jth Enc't. 


3 p.m. 


30 




NW 


..2 


Cloudy.. .. 




Lat. 67° 20' N. 


7 p.m. 


20 




NW 


--2 


Overcast . . 




Long. 87° 52' "W. 


13, 9 a. m. 


28 




NW 


. .5 


Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 




3 p.m. 


33 




NNW .... 


. 7 


...do 


Drift. 




7 p.m. 


22 




J^JSVV .... 


-.7 


... do 


Drift. 


Do 


14, 9 a. m. 


18 




WNW.... 


-.6 


.--.do 


Ther. lowest last night, 13°. 


40th Enc't. 


3 p.m. 


26 




NW 


-.4 


...do 




Lat. 67° 8' N. 


7 p.m. 


20 




'NW 


.-2 


---.do 




Long. 87° 41'.7 W. 


15, 9 a. m. 


10 




NNW ... 


. 4 


Overcast 


Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 14°. 




3 p.m. 


22 




■nrNW.... 


..2 


Cloudy 






7 p.m. 


14 




NW 


..3 


.--.do 




Do 


16, 9 a. m. 


15 




N-W 


..3 


Eew clouds . 


Ther. lowest last night, —10°. 




3 p. m. 


30 


SSW .... 


-.4 


Overcast 






7 p. m. 


18 




NNW .... 


..2 


Cloudy .. > .- 




Do 


17, 9 a. m. 


30 




NW 


4 


Overcast 


Snow; ther. lowest last night, 23°. 




3 p.m. 


38 




NW 


-.2 


... do 






7 p. m. 


24 




NW 


..2 


... do 




Do 


18, 9 a. m. 


34 




N 


-.4 


... do 


Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 30°. 


Do 


19, 9 a. m. 


32 




NNE 


. 2 


Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 


47tli Enc't. 


3 p. m. 


38 




NE 


..4 


Overcast 


Snow. 


Lat. 67° 00' N. 


7 p.m. 


34 




NE 


..4 


.--.do 


Snow. 


Long. 87° 46' "W. 
















*49tli, same as 31st 
















Enc't. 


22, 9 a. m. 












Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 


Lat. 06° 40' N. 


*3 p. m. 


32 




N 


-.5 


Overcast 


Snow. 


Long. 87° 4'.7 W. 


7 p.m. 


24 




N 


.5 


....do 






23. 9 a. m. 


24 




NNW .... 


..7 


Cloudy 


Drift; ther.lowestlast night, 18°. 


50th, same a.s 26th 


m. 














Enc't. 


26, 9 a. m. 


35 




NW 


..5 


Few clouds . 


Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 


Lat. 60° 31' N. 


3 p. m. 
7 p. ni. 


48 




Calm 




Cloudy 

Overcast 




Long. 80° 56' W. 


36 




NW 


-.1 




Do 


27, 9 a. m. 


33 




NW 


3 


Eew clouds 


Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 


51st Enc't. 


3 p.m. 


36 




NW 


-.1 


Cloudy 




Lat. 66° 30' N. 


7 p. m. 


30 




NW 


.1 


...do 




Long. 80° 34'. 5 W. 


28, 9 a. m. 


28 




NW 


..7 


Overcast 


Ther. lowest last night, 23°. 




3 p.m. 


32 




NW 


-.7 


Cloudy 






7 p. m. 


25 




NW 


. 8 


Overcast 




Do 


29, 9 a. m. 
3 p.m. 


27 
25 




NW 

NW 


-.7 
..7 


...do 

...do 


Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 






7 p. m. 


22 




NW 


..7 


....do 




Do 


30, 9 a. m. 
3 p.m. 


28 




NW 


7 


Cloudy 

. do 


Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 




30 




NW 


..6 




7 p. m. 


26 




NW 


..5 


Overcast 




Do 


31,9 a. m. 


28 




N 


6 


Cloudy 

do 


Ther. lowest last night, 23°. 




3 p. m. 


30 




N 


-.6 






7]). m. 


27 




N 


.5 


...do 




Do 


June 1, 9 a. m. 
3 p.m. 


29 
3U 




N 

N 


..6 
..3 


... do 

...do 


Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 






7 p.m. 






NNE .... 


..1 


...do 




Do . . . 


3 9 a. ni 






SW 


3 


do 






7 J), m. 


34 




sw 


. 4 


Overcast 




Do 


4, 9 a. m. 
3 p. m. 


31 
36 




SW 

sw 


.4 
..3 


... do 

Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last night, '28°. 






7 p.m. 


34 




sw 


.5 


Overcast 


Snow. 


Do 


5, 9 a. m. 
3 p. ni. 


"23 










Ther. lowest last night, 22°. 




NW 


.9 


Cloudy 




7 p. ni. 


20 




NW .. . 


.8 


.. do 




Do 


6, 9 a. ni. 


23 




NW 


. 


...do 


Ther. lowest last night, 18°. 




3 p. m. 


20 




NW 


. 6 


Overcast. . . 






7 p. m. 


25 




NW 


. 4 


Cloudy .... 




*52d Enc't. 


7, 9 a. m, 


27 




NW 


.5 


....do 




Lat. 66° 27'.7 N. 


*3 p. m. 






NW 


. 2 


....do 




Loug.S6°2l'.7\V. 


7 ]). m. 






NW 


.3 


... do 





HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



52/> 



June — July — September, 1866. 



Locality. 



52(1 Enc't. 
Lat. 66'5 27'.7N. 
Lon.86o21'.7"W. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

'Starts on sur- 
vey of Ee- 
pnlse Bay. 
Place of 51st 

Enc't. 
54tli Enc't, Ft. 
Hope. 

Do 

55tli Enc't. 
jLat. 60° 25' X. 
iLone. 86° 47' W. 

5TtU Enc't. 

Lat. 06=25' N. 

Long. 85° 28' W. 

60th Enc't. 

Lat. 660 29' N. 

Long. 86° 12' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



63d Enc't, 
near Et. Hope. 
Lat. 660 31' N.i 
Long^86o56'W.| 
Do 



Date. 



Ther. 
5. 



Bar. 



Wind. 



Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 



1866. 
June 8, 9 a. m. 

3p. m. 

7 p.m. 
9, 9 a. m. 

3 p.m. 

7 p.m. 
10, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 
11, 9 a. m. 

3 p. m. 

7 p.m. 
13, 9 a.m. 

3 p.m. 

14, 9 a. m. 

*3 p. m. 

15, 10 a. m. 

54 p. m. 

17, 7 p. m. 
18, 5 p. m. 



July 5, 1 p. m. 



18, m. 

19, m. 

20, 9 a. m. 
m. 

22, 9 a. m. 
m. 
Hi p. m. 
24, 11 a. m. 
25, 9 a. m. 
m. 
3 p.m. 
26, 9 a. m. 
m. 
midnight. \ 
27, 3 p. m. ' 
7 p. m. I 
28, 9 a. m. \ 
m. I 
7p. m. [ 
Sept. 4, 7 a. m. j 
7 p. m. [ 
5, 7 u. m. ; 
7 p. m. 
6, 7 a. m ! 
m. I 
9 p. m. 
7, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. m. 
8, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p.m. 
9, 7 a, ra. 
m. 
7 p. m. 

11, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. ; 

12, 7 a. m. ' 

m. 
7 p.m. 

13, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 



48 
34 
.^7 

36 

40 

30 
40 

54 



50 



52 

50 . 
62 1. 
50 I 



In. 



xxw .. 


...3 


irw .... 


...4 


NW .... 


. .2 


WW .... 


...1 


U" 


...3 


N 


-- 3 


NW .... 


...1 


NW .... 


...1 


SW 


1 


NW .... 


.. 1 


NW .... 


.. 1 


NW .... 


.. 1 


S 


.. 2 


S 


.. 1 


NW .... 


.6 


NW .... 


..6 



NW 

NW 



NW 

SE.., 



NW . . strong. 



W- very light. 
SW . . . light. 
NW Ughtair. 
NW lightair. 
NW. light air. 



NW, 
S.... 
S... 
S ... 
W.. 

W Ught. 

Calm 



light, 
.light, 
light, 
light, 
light. 



Calm 

S 1 

S 

WNW 3 



N 

NNW ... 
NNW ... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

SE 

SE 

SE 



S.... 
SSW. 



.1 NNW , 
." SE.... 

E . .. 
.' ENE 

SE .. 

.; SE 

.i NE.... 
.( NE.... 
.■ NE ... 



Sky. 



Overcast . . . 
Cloudy .... 

— do 

..do 

...do 

do 

Few clouds 

..do 

Cloudy .... 
Few clouds 

.. do 

.-do 



Kemarks. 



Cloudy . 
— do - . 
...do . 



Few clouds 
...do 



Cloudy . . . 
Overcast. 



Cloudy . 



Clear 
...do 
--do 



Sno w ; ther. lowest la.st night, 25°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest la.st night, 24°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 18°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 33°. 
Ther lowest last night, 22°. 

Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 40* 



Hazy I Ther lowest last night, 50°. 



Overcast 

..do 

Cloudy 

..do 

do 

do 

Overcast. . . 
Few clouds 
Cloudy . . 
Overcast . 



Cloudy . . 
Overcast . 
. do ... 



Overcast. 



Ther. lowest last night, 29°. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 29o. 

Ther. lowest last night, Z0°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 20°. 



Rain ; ther. lowest last nightt 36°. 

Kain. 

Eaiu. 



Ther. lowest last night, 24°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow; ther. lowest last night, 30°. 

Snow and rain. 

Snow and rain. 

Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 

Snow and rain. 

Snow and rain. 



526 



HalFs Meteorological Journal. 



OCTOBEl! — KOVEMBER — DECEMBER, 1866. 



Locality. 



Date. 



Ther. 5. ' Bar. 



Wind. 



Sky. 



Remarks. 



69th Enc't. 
near Fort lIo])o. 
Lat. 60° 31' N. 
Long. 86° 56' W. 

Do 

Do '■ 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do I 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

64th Enc't. 

Talloon. 

Lat. 60° 37' >r. 

Long. 86° 42' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

CSdi Knct, 
Shijin' Har- 
bor iNhnuLs. 

Lat. 00° -.6' Jf. 

Long. 860 6' W. 



Oct 



1866. 

7, 7 a. ni. 
7 p. m. 

8, 7 a. lu. I 

m.j 

7 p. m. 
9, 7 a. m. ! 

8 p. m. I 
10, 7 a. m. I 



7 p. m. 

16, 7 a. m. 

m. I 

7 p. m. 

17, 7 a. m. ' 

m.l 

7 p. m. j 

18, 7 a. m. \ 

m. 

7 p. m. 

19, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

21, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

22, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

23, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

24, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. 111. 

25, 7 a. m. 

ra. 
7 p. m. 

26, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

27, 7 a. m. 



In. 



I p.m. 
28, 7 a. m. 



( p. m. 
>'ov. 18, 7 a. m. • 
m. I 
7 p. ra. 

19, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 )). 111. 

20, 7 a. lu. 

in. 
7 p. m. 
21, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. m. i 
22, 7 a. m. 
m. I 
7 p. ni. I 

23, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 1 

24, 7 a. m. I 

m. I 

7 p. m. 

Dec. 1, 7 a. m. 

m.j 
7 p. m. 



W... 

ssw 
s .... 
s .... 

s.... 

s .... 

SSE . 
SSE . 

SE... 



Clear . .. 

Overcast. 
...do .... 
...do .... 
...do .... 
...do ... 
. ..do .... 



20 

22 . 

15 . 
10 ,. 

16 . 
6 . 
6 . 

10 ,. 

8 1 
4i- 

9 i 
6 . 
2 

■ l\: 

-j- 

■\\: 

V: 

5 . 
'. 

6 |. 
16 •. 

5 

2 

■ 3 

■ 3 
1 

■ 4 
17 
24 
10 

4 
12 

8 
14 
14 
10 

- 2 


- 4 

- 4 
2 

- 5 

- 10 

- 17 

- 18 

- 24 



NW 5 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

N 7 



N 

K 

NW .... 
NW .... 
NW.... 
N. 



...7 

•■ 8 
-.5 I 

.::!* 

...3 ' 

.3 

...2 



Cloudy - . 
... do .... 

..do .... 
...do .... 
...do .... 

.. do ... 



22 . 
16 !. 
. . I. 
20 |. 
28 . 
24 |. 
30 j. 
10 . 
IS 
9 . 



NW .. 
NW.. 

N 2 

N 1 

NNW 1 

N 6 ' 

N 6 

N 4 

NW... 5 

NNW 6 1 

NXW 5 \ 

NNW 

NNW 5 

NNW 5 i 

NW C I 

NW .• 6 i 

NW 

NW 7 

NW 7 

NW 7 

NNW 3 

NW 1 

NW 1 

SW 2 

SW 2 

NW 1 

W 3 

NW 1 

NNW 2 

NE 4 

NE 6 

N 6 

NW 6 

NW 6 

NNW 6 ' 

NNW 6 

NNW 5 

NNW 

WNW 2 

WNW 1 

NNW 2 

NW 1 

NW 1 

NW 1 

NNW 2 

NW 2 

NW 3 

('aim 

NW 1 , 

NW 1 

SE 3 

SE .4 I 

SE 3 I 



Clondv .... 
...do .... 

Overcast . . 

Cloudy 

...do' 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

do 

...do .. . 

Few clouds 

....do 

... do 

Cloudv 

... do" 

do 

Few clouds . 
... do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

Cloar 

. ...do . .. 

Overcast ... 

... do 

...do 

Cloudv • 

Kew c'louds 

Cloudy . . . . 

Overcast . 
..do 

. do 

Cloudy 

. .. do 

do . . 

Overcast. .. 

..do . ... 
...do 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

. do 

Clear 

...do 

Few clouds 

Cloudv 

. do ' 

...do 

Clear 

.. do 

....do 

Overcast 

....do 

....do 



Ther. lowest last night, 14°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 28°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 32°. 

Snow. 

Snow ; ther. lowest hist night, 32°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 16°. 

Snow and drift. 

Snow and drift. 

Snow and drift; tlier. lowest last 

S-aow and (bift. [night, 5°. 

Snow iintl drift. 

Tber. lowest last night, 0". 



Ther. lowest last night, 4°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 0°. 



Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 4°. 
Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, — 0°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drill ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Drift. 

Dritt. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Drift. 

Drilt. 

1)1 ilf : ther. lowest last night, —2°. 

Drilt. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — .">=. 



Snow; ther. lowest hist night, — 5°. 
Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 4". 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 14°. 

Snow and drilt. 

Snow iind <lrift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last niglil, — 1°. 

Drift. 

l>i'ift. 

Drift I ther. lowestlast night, — 5°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

'Ther, lowest last night, —18'^. 



Tlier. lowest last night, —24°. 



Ther, lowest last night, —34°. 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 



527 



Dkcember, 18GG — January, 1867. 



Locality. 



65th F.iK't. 
Ships' Har- 
bor Islands. 

Lat. GCOL'C'N. 

Long. 80° 6'W. 

Do 



Date. 



Ther. 5. 



1866. 
Dec. 2, 7£ 



Do. 

Do 

Do. 

Do 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do 

Do. 

Do. 

Do 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do . 

Do.. 

Do.. 

Do . 

Do.. 



Jan 



I p. m. 
7 a. m. 



22, 



p. m. 



I p. m. 
23, 7 a. m. 



( p. m. 
24, 7 a. m. 



7 p. m. 

25, 7 a. 1 



( p. m. 
26, 7 a. m. 



7 p. m. I 

27, 7 a. m. ; 

m. I 
7 p. m. i 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. I 
7 p. m 

29, 7 a. m 

m 
7 p.m 

30, 7 a. m. 



7 p.m. 
31.7 a. m. 



7 p.m. 
1867. 

1, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

2, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

3, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

4, 7 a. m. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 

5, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

6, 7 a. m. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 

7, 7 a. m. ! 

m. ' 
7 p. m. 

8, 7 a. m. , 

in. 1 

7 p. m. I 

9, 7 a. ni. I 

m.' 

7 p. m. 

10, 7 a. m. I 



/ p. m. 

11, 7 a. m. ' 

m. 
7 p. m. 

12, 7 a. m. 

m. I 
7 p. m. 



- 15 

- 14 

- 16 

- 4 

■ 4 

• 5 

- 12 I 

■ 13 

■ 10 

• 13 
. 12 
. 15 
. 22 
. 22 
. 24 

20 

. 24 

24 

32 

■ 28 

■ 28 
15 
10 
11 
15 
15 
20 
26 
23 
28 
28 
24 
20 
15 
14 
12 
20 
23 
25 



Bar. 



In. 



Wind. 



...t SE. 



^tnt; .... 


9 


KXW . . . 


.. 2 


XX w ... 


.. 3 


XNW ... 


.. 4 


xw .... 


. 3 


xw .... 


*> 


wxw... 


o 


NW ... 


1 


xw . . . 


1 


XE ... . 


...2 


XE 


-. 1 


NE 


1 



Sky. 



^Remarks. 



Snow and drift. 



Cloudy i Ther. lowest last night, —24°. 

Overcast 



XXW 3 

XW 2 

X W .2 

X'R' 2 

X W 2 

XW 2 

X 2 

XXW 1 

XXW 1 

X 2 

X' 2 

XW 3 

XW 6 

XW 7 



XW . 
XW. 
XW. 



E 

E. 

E 

XE. 



...3 
...2 
...2 
..2 

XXE 2 

XXE 3 

NE 3 

XXE 2 

XXE 2 



N^W 

XW 

XW 

XW 

NW 

X"W. 

Calm 

X ... 

XE.. 

XTS .. 

XE .. 

XXE 

XXE 2 

X 1 

XXW.... 1 

X 1 

X'XW 1 

XXW 1 

XXW 3 

XW 2 

XXW 7 

XXW 8 

XXW 8 

XXW 8 

SW 2 

SW 3 

SW .3 



Few clouds 

...do 

..do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

...do 

..do 



Ther. lowest last night. — 34<='. 



Ther. lowest la.it night. — 31<^. 



Ther. lowest last night, —32°. 



Cloudy .... Ther. lowest last night. — 15° 

do 

.-do 

Few clouds . j Ther. lowest last night, — 26°. 

Clear j 

Few clouds i 

Overcast . . 1 Ther. lowest last night, — 20°. 

. - do . . . 

...do 

. . do Ther. lowest last night, — 12°. 

Cloudy . . . . , 

Few clouds i 

Overca.st .. 1 Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 11° 

..do Drift. 



Overcast -. I Drift; ther. lowestlast night, — 16°, 

--do '• Drift. 

...do I Drift. 



Cloudy . .. 

— do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy .. .. 
Few clouds 
Cloudy - . . . 

-do 

Few clouds . 

.- do 

. do 

Clear 

Few clouds . 

..do 

Clear 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 

Overcast . . 
Cloudy . . . . 

Overcast . . 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

..do 

...do 

..do 

Cloudy 

...do". 

...do 



Clear 

Few clouds 
.. do 



Ther. lowest last night, — 16°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. 
Ther. lowest last night. — 24°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 30°. 
Ther. lowest last night. —32°. 
Fog; ther. lowest last night, — 28°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —28°. 

Ther. lowest last night. —28°. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night. — 20°. 

DTift. 

DrUt. 

Ther. lowest last night, —20°. 



528 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 

January — February, 1867. 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5 


Bar. 


"Wind. 


Sky. 


Remarks. 




1867. 


o 


In. 










65th Enc't, 


Jan. 13, 7 a. m. 


— 25 




SW 


.4 


Few clouds . 


Ther. lowest last night, —.".1°. 


Ships' Har- 


m. 


— 24 




WSW .... 


. 2 


...do 




bor Islands. 


7 p. m. 


— 24 




SSE 


.2 


. ..do 




Lat. 6G0 2C'N. 


14, 7 a. m. 


— 33 




SW 


.1 


Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, —35°. 


Loiig.86° 6'W. 


m. 


— 30 





SW 


- 2 


....do 






7 p. m. 


— 34 





ST7 





Few clouds 




Do 




36 




NW 




Clear . , 

...do 


Ther. lowest last night, —.36°. 




m. 


— 38 




NN W .... 






7 p. ni. 


— 34 




NNW .... 


..2 


Few clouds . 




Do 


16, 7 a. m. 
m. 


— 31 




NW 


5 


do 


Ther. lowest last night, —31°. 




— 30 




NW 


. .5 


...do 




7 p.m. 


— 27 




NW 


.-4 


...do 




Do 


17, 7 a. m. 


— 31 




NW 


.5 


...do 


Ther. lowest last night, —31°. 




m. 


— 30 




NW 


.5 


...do 






7 p. m. 


— 27 




NTV 


.4 


...do 




Do 


18, 7 a. m. 


— 31 




WNW.... 


. 1 


Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, —31°. 




m. 


— 28 




ENE 


. 2 


.. do 


■ 




7 p. m. 


— 20 




Calm 






Hazy. 


Do 


19, 7 a. m. 


— 15 





NNE 


. 1 


Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last nighf, —15°. 




m. 


— 4 





SE 


..2 


.- do 






7 p. m. 


— 3 




N 


.2 


... do 




Do 


20, 7 a. m. 


— 3 




NNE 


. 3 


Overcast 


Ther. lowest last night, — 3°. 




m. 


— 3 




N 


. 2 


Cloudy .. .. 






7 p. m. 


— 12 




NTV 


.1 


....do 




Do 


21,7 a. m. 


6 




NNE 


.-2 


Overcast 


Ther. lowest last night, -12°. 




m. 


8 




NE 


2 


Cloudy ... 






7 p. m. 


4 




NE 


.1 


....do 




Do 


22, 7 a. m. 


5 




NE 


. 3 


Overcast . . 


Ther. lowest last night, 3°. 




m. 


8 




ENE 


. 2 


...do 






7 p. m. 


4 




NE 


? 




Hazy. 

Ther. lowest last night, —15°. 


Do... 


13, 7 a. m. 


— 14 




NW . . 


o 


Few clouds 




m. 


— 12 




NAV 


. 1 


...do 




7 p. m. 


— 12 




NNW .... 


.1 


-...do 




Do 


24, 7 a. m. 


— 12 




NW 


1 


Cloudy 

do 






m. 
7 p.m. 






Calm 











Calm 




Overcast .. 


Do 


25, 7 a. m. 







NW 


1 


do 


Ther. lowest last night, — 3°. 




m. 


2 




NW 


. 2 


do .. .. 






7 p.m. 














Do 


26, 7 a. m. 


— 20 




NAV 


6 


Cloudy .... 
... do 


Drift; ther. lowest lastniglit, —20°. 




m. 


— 25 




NW 


6 


Drift. 




7 p.m. 


— 30 




NW 


. 4 


... do 




Do 


27, 7 a. m. 


— 33 




NW . .. 


5 


Few clouds 


Ther. lowest last night, — 34°. 




m. 


— 30 




NNW .... 


- f) 


...do 






7 p. m. 


— 26 




NNW.... 


. 3 




Hazy. 


Do 


28, 7 a. m. 


— 34 




NW 


6 


Cloudy 

...do 


Ther. 'owest last ni''ht 34° 




m. 


— 32 




NNW .... 


..5 






7 p. m. 


— 37 




NNW .... 


. 5 


...do 




Do 


29, 7 a. m. 
m. 


— 39 




NW 


o 








— 33 




Calm 




Cloudy 


Fog. "^ ' 




7 p. m. 


— 37 




NNE 


1 




Fog; hazy. 


Do 


30, 7 a. m. 
m. 


— 34 




NNE 


\ 


Few clouds 






— 30 




NE . ... 


.4 


.. do 


Fog.' 




7 p. m. 


— 34 




NE 


.4 


...do 




Do 


31,7 a. m. 


— 20 




wsw 


<1 


Cloudy 

. . do 


Fog; ther. lowest last night,— 34°. 
Fog. 




m. 


— 20 




w 


. 3 




7 p. m. 


— 26 




w 


. 3 


Few clouds 




Do 


Feb. 1, 7 a. m. 


'iO 




N 


T 


Cloudy .... 
do 






m. 


— 24 




NNE 


2 






7 p. m. 


— 28 




NNE .... 


. .2 


l''ow clouds 




Do 




— 28 




NE 


■) 


do 






m. 


— 23 




NE 


. 1 


Clear 






7 p. m. 


— 28 




NE 


. 2 ... do 




Do 


3, 7 a. m. 
m. 


12 




s 


\ 








— 8 




SSE 


. « 


...do 


Snow. 




7 p. m. 


— 5 




SSE , 


..fi 


... do 


Snow. 


Do 


4, 7 a. m. 
m. 


— 22 




NNW 


7 


Cloudy 

do 


Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, —22°. 
Drift. 




— 27 




NNW .... 


.6 




7 p. m. 


— 33 




NNW .... 


.2 


Few clouds 


Aurora. 


Do 




— 39 




NNW 


1 




Ther. lowest last night, —39°. 




m. 


— 29 




SW 


..1 


.. do 


' 


7 p. m. 


— 39 




Calm 




. . . do 













Hall's Meteorolofjical Journal. 

Febkuauy, 1867. 



529 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5. 


Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Komarks. 


6oth Enc't, 
Ships' Har- 
bor Islands. 

Lat. 60°2C'X. 

Long. 80° C'W. 


1«G7. 
Feb. 6, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. in. 




— 40 

— 34 

— 38 


In. 


NNW 2 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 


Clear 

....do 

...do 


Ther. lowest last night, — 40°. 



Eegiisier kept during HaWs journey to hjloolih by Frank Leonard (or Lailorf), a seaman. 



Locality. 



65th 'Enc't, 
Ships' Har- 
bor Islands. 

Lat. eu°2G'N. 

Long. 80° C'W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Date. 



Ther. 5. 



18C7. 
Feb. 9, i 

10, 

11, 

12, 

13, 

14, 

15, 

10, 

17, 

18, 

19, 

20, 

21, 

22, 

23, 

24, 

23, 

2fi, 

27, 



p. lU. 



p.m. 
a. ni. 



p. ni. 



]). ni. 

a. m. 



p. ni. 
a. ni. 



]). m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
]). m. 
a. ui. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



]). m. 



p. m. 
a. ni. 



p. ni. 
a. 111. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



Bar. 



Wind. 



In. 



SK .. 
SW . 

sw . 

NAV . 
NW . 
SNW 
NW . 

~sw . 

NAV . 
XE . 
NE .. 
ENE. 
NW . 
NE .. 
NE .. 
E ... 
E ... 
SE... 
SE... 
NE .. 

NW . 

NW . 

NW . 

NAY.. 

NW.. 

NW.. 

NW . 

NW.. 

NW.. 

NNW 

NNW 

NNW 

NW .. 

NW . 

NW . 

NE .- 

NE .. 

NE .. 

NE .- 

SE . . . . 

SE . . . . 

SE . . . . 

SE . . . . 

SE . . . . 

SE . . . . 
I E .... 

E.bvlST 

NW . . 

NTV .- 
I NW .. 
I NW .. 
i NW . . 
I NW 
t NW 
I NW 

NW 
'■ NW 
1 NW 

NW 



Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Liffht.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Liiht.. 
Light- - 
Light.. 
Light 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Liuht.. 
Strong 
Strong- 
Strong 
Strong. 
.Gale .. 
Gale .- 
Gale .. 
Eresh 
, I'rcsh 
. Eresh 
Strong 
Sti'opg. 
Strung. 
Gale -. 
G.ilc .. 
Gale .. 
Strong 
Ercsir. - 
Fresh- - 
Fre.sh.. 
Fresh. - 
Fresh - - 
LiEht . - 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light-. 
Fresh -- 
Fresh . . 
Sti ong 
Fresh-. 
Fresh- - 
Light . . 
Light.. 
Light - - 
Light - . 
Ligiit . . 
Light . . 
Light . . 
Light . - 
Light . . 
Fresh.. 
Light . . 
Light . . 



Weather. 



Eemarks. 



Fine ... 

...do . 

do .. 

Cloudy . 

Fine 

. . do . . 
. . do . . 
. . do . . 
...do .. 
Cloudy . 

'-'. Olo'.'. 

Fine . . . 

..do . 

..do .. 

Cloudy . 
....do . 

Stormy 

...do'.. 

.. do . 

. . do . . 

...do .. 

. . do . . 

...do .. 

Fine . . . 

...do., 
do.. 

Stormy 

. . do '. . 

.. do .. 

...do .. 

. . .do . . 

.. do -. 

...do .. 

...do .. 

. - do . . 

Fine . . . 
...do .. 
... do -. 

Hazv . . 
. . . .do . . 

Thick 

. . do . 
. . . do . . 
. .. do .. 

Stormy I L'hor 

Thick ! 

. . . .do . . 

Fine Ther. 

. . . do . . 
. . . do . . 
. ...do .. 

. . do - . 

..do .. 

...do.. 
. . . .do . . 
. . . .do. 

...do .. 

...do.. 

...do.. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Tlier. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



lowest last night, — 40°. 
lowest last night, — 44°. 
lowest last night, — 42°. 



Ther. 



Tlier. 



Ther. 



lowest last night, - 
lowest last niglit, • 
lowest last night, • 
lowest last night, • 
lowest last night, • 
lowest last night, - 
lowest last night, - 
lowest last night, - 
lowest last night, - 
lowest last night, - 
lowest la.st night, - 
lowest last uiglit, - 
lowest last night, - 
lowest last night, - 
lowest last night, - 



-38°. 
-10°. 
-20°. 
-3G°. 
-37°. 
-34°. 
-22°. 
-20°. 
-30°. 
-28°. 
-14°. 
-22°. 
-30°. 
- 3(P. 
-38°. 



S. Ex. 27- 



-34 



530 



Hairs Meteorological Journal. 

March, 1867. 



Locality. 



65th Enc't. 
Ships' Harbor 

Islands. 

Lat. 66°26'N. 

LoDg.860 6'W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Ds - 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Date. 



1867. 
Mar. 1, 

2, 

3, 

4, 

5, 



7, 
8, 
9, 
10, 
11, 
12. 
13, 
14, 
15, 
16, 
17, 
18, 
19, 
20, 
21, 
22, 
23, 
24. 



a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. ra. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

ni. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
ii. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. ui. 
a,, m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. ni. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 



Ther. 5. 



Bar. 



In, 



"Wind. 



TV .. 

NE.. 
NE .. 
SE.... 
NE ... 
NE . . . 
NE .. 
N ... 
NNW 
NW .. 
NW .. 
NW .. 
NNE 
ENE.. 
NE... 
NW .. 
NAV .. 
NW .. 
NE .. 
NE... 
NE... 
NE... 
NE ... 
NE... 
NE... 
NE... 
NW.. 
NW .. 
NW .. 
NW.. 
NE... 
NE... 
NW.. 
NE ... 
NE... 
NE... 
E .... 

E 

E 

NE . . . 
NE... 
N.... 
NE .. 
NE .. 
NE .. 
S ... 
SW . 
NW . 
SW. . 
SW.. 
NW . 
NW . 
NW . 
NW . 
N.... 
N.... 
N.... 
NW . 
NW . 
NW . 
NE .. 
SW.. 
W ... 
NE .. 
NE ... 
E .... 
E ... 
SE... 
SW . . . 
s ... 
Calm 
NW .. 



Light . 
Light. 
Light. 
Liffht. 
.Light . 
Light - 
Fresh. 
Light . 
.Strong 
Fresh. 
Fresh. 
Fresh. 
Light . 
Light. 
Light . 
Light . 
Light . 
Light . 
Light . 
Light . 
Light . 
Strong 
Strong . 
Strong 
Light . , 
Light . . 
Light . 
Light - . 
Light - . 
Light . . 
Fresh.. 
Fresh. 
Fresh.. 
Gale... 
Gale . . . 
Gale . . . 
Fresh.. 
Strong. 
Strong . 
Fresh.. 
Fresh.. 
Strong . 
Strong. 
Strong. 
Strong. 
Light . . 
Light . . 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Fresh.. 
Light . . 
Light . . 
Light . . 
Light . . 
Light.. 
Light. . 
.Fresh . 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Light.. 
Fresh . 
Fresh . 
Fresh . 
Strong. 
Strong . 
Fresh . 
Light.. 



Light. 



Weather. 



Fine 

... do 

....do 

Cloudy 

. . do 

Thick 

....do 

Cloudy 

Thick 

...do 

..do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Fine .'. 

... do 

...do 

..do 

... do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

Stormy 

.'.'..Ao .'.'.'.'.'. 

Thick 

Fine 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

Thick 

Cloudy 

Thick 

Stormy 

do '. 

-.do 

Fine 

Thick 

Stormy 

Cloudy .... 

...do 

Stormy 

...Ao '.'.'.'.'.'. 

...do 

Fine 

...do 

Cloudy 

...do 

...do 

Fine 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do , 

...do 

...do , 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Thick 

-.do 

...do 

Stormy 

...do 

Fine 

...do 

...do 

...do 



Remarks. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 42°. 
. lowest last night, — 32°. 
; ther. lowestlastnight, — 24°. 
lowest last night, — 33°. 
lowest last night, — 27°. 
lowest last night, — 38°. 
lowest last might, — 30°. 
lowest last night, — 36°. 
lowest last night, — 18°. 
lowest last night, — 34°. 
lowest last night, — 36°. 
lowest last night, — 23°. 
lowest last night, — 2°. 
lowest last night, — 12°. 
lowest last night, 3°. 
lowest last night, 3°. 
; ther.lowestlastnight, — 5°. 
lowest last night, — 26°. 
lowest last night, — 19°. 
lowest last night, — 20°. 
lowest last night, — 24°. 
ther. lowestlastnight, — 12°, 
lowest last night, 8°. 
lowest Inst night, — 8°. 



Ther. 



Drift 



Ther. 



Drift, 
Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 
Drift, 



Ther, 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Snow 
Drift. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



Drift; 
Drift. 



Ther. 



Ther. 



HalVs Meteorological Journal. 

February — ^Maech — April, 1867. 



531 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5. 


Bar. 


"Wind. 


"Weather. 


Remarks. 


65th Enc't. 
Ships' Harbor 

Islands. 
Lat. 660 26'N. 
Long.860 C'W. 

Do 


1867 
Mar. 25, 

26, 

27, 
28, 

29, 

30, 

31, 

Apr. 1, 

2, 
4, 

5, 

6, 


a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.ta. 
a. m. 

m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

ni. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 




— 4 

— 3 

— 22 

— 12 

— 8 
•— 8 

— 6 

— 6 

— 4 
3 
2 
2 
6 

ll 
18 
14 
14 


In. 


S'W... Light.. 
Calm 


I'ine 

...do 


Ther. lowest last night, —22°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —28°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —9°. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, —6°. 

Ther. lowest last night, 2°. 

Ther. lowest last night, 16°. 
Drift. 

Snow; ther. lowest last night, 4°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 5°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —2°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 18°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —24°. 


SE.... Light.. 
SE.... Light.. 

SE Light.. 

S Light.. 

NE ...Light.. 
NE ...Light.. 
SE... Fresh . 
SE . . . .Fresh . 
E ....Strong 
IfE ...Fresh 
E .... Light.. 

E Strong. 

SE . . . Fresh . 
SE . . . . Fresh . 

SE Strong. 

E Strong 

SE . Fresh . 

E Lieht-. 

'KE ...Light.. 
NE ...Light.. 

N Light.. 

inv ..Strong. 
NW ..Galo .. 
KE ... Light.. 
NW ..Gale... 
NTV . Gale 


...do 

....do 

.. do 

Thick 

Fine 

...do 

Thick 

.. do 

Stormy 

Thick 

Fine 

Stormy 

do 

Thick 

do 

Stoi-mv 

Thick' 

...do 

...do 

...do 

.. do 

Stormy 

...do'. 

Cloudy 

Stormy 

... do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


14 ! 

10 

14 

20 

8 

8 

5 1 

4 



— 9 '. 


Do 

Do 


Do 

Do . ... 


— 8 

— 7 

— 14 

— 14 

— 6 

— 14 




IfW .-Fresh . 
NW ..Fresh . 
N'W ..Light.. 
KW ..Licht.. 
ITW ..Light.. 
N"W ..Light.. 


Fine 

..-.do 

....do 

...do 

... do 

.. do 





Sail's observations on sledge journey to Ig-loo-lik. 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5. 


Bar. 


"Wind. 


Sky. 


Kemarks. 




1867. 





In. 










Ist Igloo. 


Feb. 7,7 a.m. 


— 41 




JS^^W .... 


..1 


Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, — 41°. 


Lat. 66°35'N. 


m. 


— 37 




>ixNW .... 


..1 


Few clouds 




Long.860(?)"W. 


7 p.m. 


— 45 




Calm 




Clear 




Do 


8, 7 a. m. 


-38 




KKW .... 


..i 


Cloudy 


Ther. lowest last night, —45°. 




m. 


-34 




SE 


.3 


Few clouds . 






7 p.m. 


— 36 




Calm 




do 




Do 


9, 7 a. m. 


— 34 




N"W 


.2 


Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, —34°. 




m. 


— 36 





NE 


. 2 


...do 






7 p. m. 


— 42 




NN-W .... 


.1 


do 




2d Igloo. 


10, 7 a. m. 


— 42 




Calm 




Few clouds 


Ther. lowest last nisht, —44°. 




m. 


— 36 




KE 


. 2 


Clear 






7 p. m. 


— 37 





NE 


..2 


.. do 




3d Igloo. 


11, 7 a. m. 


— 44 





SW 


.1 


.. do 


Ther. lowest last night, —44°. 


Boss Bay. 


m. 


— 38 




UW 


.2 


-. do 






7 p. m. 


— 48 




E 


..1 


... do 




4th Igloo. 


12, 7 a. m. 


— 47 




E 


. 1 


Cloudy .... 


Fog : ther. lowest last night, — 50°. 


Near lieebar- 


m. 


— 30 




E 


. 1 


...do 


Fog. 


bic Cr. 


7 p. m. 


— 28 




E 


.2 


...do- .. 


log. 


5th Igloo. 


13, 7 a. m. 


— 34 




NW 


.2 


Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, —34°. 




m. 


— 35 




NW 


. 1 


...do 






7 p.m. 


— 40 




NAT 


. 1 


-do 




6th Igloo. 


14, 7 a. m. 


— 40 




KE 


..1 


Cloudy 


Fog ; ther. lowest last night, — 47°. 




m. 


— 30 




NE 


..2 


...do 


Fog. 




7 p.m. 


- 27 




SE 


. 3 


.. do 


Fog. 


Do 


15, 7 a. m. 


— 16 




NE 




Overcast 


Sdo'w and d'lift * ther. lowest last 














night, —27°. 




m. 


- 15 


NE 


..8 


Cloudy 


Snow and drift. 


1 


7 p.m. 


— 18 


NNE 


. 7 


-...do 


Snow and drift. 



532 



IlalVs Meteorological Journal. 

February — March, I8G7. 



Locality. 


Date. 


rher. 5. 


Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Kemarka. 




1867. 


o 


In. 










6th Igloo. 


Feb. 10, 7 a. lu. 


— 23 




K 


..9 




Drift; ther. lowest last night,— 23°. 




m. 


— 20 




N 


.10 




Drift. 




7 p.m. 


— 24 




W 


..5 


Clear 




Tth Igloo. 


17, 7 a. m. 


— 32 




N 


.1 


.--.do 


Ther. lowest last night, —32°. 


NearPinguar- 


m. 


— 32 




NNW .... 


..4 


... do 




ku Mt. 


7 p. m. 


— 42 




KNW .... 


. 2 


Few clouds 




Do 


18, 7 a. m. 
m. 


— 34 

— 28 





NW 

?iW 


..7 
.6 


Cloudy 

.. do 


Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 46°. 
Drift. 






7 p. m. 


— 23 




NW 


. 6 


. . (10 


Drilt. 


Do 


19, 7 a. m. 


— 21 




NE 


.8 


...do 


Drift ; ther. lowestlastnight,— 23°. 




m. 


— 12 




HE 


..7 


....do 


Drilt. 




7 p.m. 


-23 




KE 


. .5 


.-. do 


Drift. 


8th Igloo. 


20, 7 a. m. 


— 14 




NE 


. .'0 


-. do 


Fog ; f her. lowest last night, — 23°. 




m. 


— 10 




N 


.4 


....do 


Snow. 




7 p. m. 


— 18 




is^W .... 


.5 


Overcast . . . 


Snow. 


9th Igloo. 


21,7 a.m. 


— 37 




KNW.... 


2 


Few clouds 


Ther. lowest last night, —37°. 


Oosooarku. 


m. 


— 15 




NW .... 


.1 


Clear 






7 p. m. 


— 32 




NW 


.3 


....do 




10th Igloo. 


22, 7 a. m. 


— 34 





NW... . 


. 1 


Few clouds 


Ther. lowest last night, —34°. 




m. 


— 18 




NW 


.3 


...do 






7 p. m. 


— 3G 




isrw 


..2 


Clear 




11th Igloo. 


23, 7 a. m. 


— 30 




NW 


. 1 


Few clouds 


Ther. lowest last night, —30"^. 


N'ringnuktoo. 


m. 


— 28 




NW 


.4 


Cloudy 






7 p.m. 


— 20 




s 


. 4 


. do 




12th Igloo. 


24, 7 a. m. 


— 




E 


..5 


Overcast . . . 


Ther. lowest last night, —20°. 


N'rOoglitlsle. 


m. 


— 3 




E 


. 7 


Cloudy 


Drift. 




7 p.m. 


— 5 




E 


..8 


...do 


Drilt. 


13th Igloo. 


25, 7 a. m. 


3 




Calm .... 


.. 


...do 


Snow. 




m. 


10 




NW 


. 1 


.--.do 






7 p.m. 


— 2 




NW 


..1 


-. do 




14th Icloo. 
N'rPinyitkalik 


26, m. 
*27, 7 a. m. 


— 8 

— 36 








...do 


Ther. lowest last night, —16°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —40°. 




KW 


.4 


Few clouds . 


*15th liiloo. 


m. 


— 34 




NW 


. 5 


Cloudv 




Ig-loolik. 
Do 


7 p. m. 


— 38 




NW 


. 3 


Few clouds 




28, 7 a. m. 


— 34 




IJJfW ... 


.6 


Cloudy ... 


Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 38°. 




m. 


— 30 




aw 


.7 


.. do 


Drift. 




7 p. m. 


— 33 




NW 


. 3 


Few clouds 




Do 


Mar. 1,7 a. m. 
m. 


— 40 

— 30 





KW 

NW 


.1 
.1 


-. do 

.. do 


Ther. lowest last night, —40=. 






7 71. m. 


— 43 




>iNW ... 


.2 


- do 




Do 


2,7 a. m. 


— 20 




S 


..3 


Cloudy .... 






m. 


— 17 




S 


..4 


--..do 






7 ]). m. 

3, 7 a. m. 

m. 


03 




s 


3 


do 




Do 


— 29 

— 24 




N 

NNW ... 


.. 3 
. 5 


.-..do 

....do 


Ther. lowest last night, — 32°. 




Do 


7 p. m. 
4, 7 a. m. 


— 30 

— 36 




KW 




Few clouds 
Cloudy 


Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 36°. 


KW 


. . .7 




m. 


— 33 




NW 


. . . 5 


...do 


Drift. 


Do 


7 ]). m. 

5, 7 a. m. 

m. 


— 37 

— 41 

— 33 




NW 


3 


Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, — 41°. 


MNW ... 
XNW ... 


...3 
.. 1 






7 p. m. 


— 4.5 




NNW ... 


*) 


Few clouds 




ICth Igloo. 
Near Igloolik. 


U, 7 a. m. 


- 45 




N 


2 


...do 


Ther. lowest last night, -48°. 


Ul. 


— 39 




NNW ... 


...3 


..do 






7 ]). 111. 


— 42 




NW 


.. 2 


.-..do 




Do 


7, 7 n. ni. 


— 38 




C;;lm .... 




-. do 


Ther. lowest last night, — 46°. 




111. 


— 31 




NW 


...2 


... do 






7 ]!. 111. 


— 36 




NW 


...1 


...do 




Do 


8, 7 a. Ul. 


— 36 




NW 


...1 


Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, — 42°. 






— 28 




E 


3 




Hazv. 




7 p. m. 


— 20 




E 


. 5 




Hazv. 


Do 


9, 7 a. m. 
m. 


— 15 

— 4 




E 

E 


...6 
...4 


Cloudy 

...do 


Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 21°. 






7 p. m. 


— 13 




E 


2 


..do 




17th Igloo. 


10, 7 a. m. 


— 20 




K 


.. 1 


F(^w clouds . 


Ther. lowest last night, -22°. 


Tern I.sl. 


m. 






KNW ... 


'- 


Cloudv .... 






7 p. m. 






JJNW . . . 


...1 


Few clouds . 




! 18th, saiiiir as 


11, 7 n. m. 






Calm 




..do 




llith Igloo. 


7 p. III. 


— 30 




NW 





Cloudy 




Do 


12,7 a. m. 


— 15 




E 


. . 7 


Overcast . . . 


Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 31°. 




m. 







E 


...8 




Snow and drift. 




7 p. m. 


5 




ESE 


...8 




Snow ;iu(l drift. 





naWs Meteorological Journal. 

March — April — May, 1867. 



533 



Locality. 



Date. 



I Ther. 5. 



tSth Ifrloo same 
as 10th. 



Do 
Do 



1st Igloo of IC- 
turu.uearlg- 
loolik. 
Do 



2d Igloo of re- 
tuiu. 

3(1 Igloo of ic- 
tum, en New 
Lake. 

4th Igloo of 
retum. 

5th Igloo of 
j-i'tuni, west 
of Amitoke. 

6th Igloo of 
return, same 
as9tli of out- 
wa'iljounicy, 
Oosooarku.' 

7th Igloo of 
return. 

8tli Igloo of 
return. 

9th Igloo of re- 
turn, n'r Pin- 
ituarku lit. 

10th Igloo of 
return. 

11th Igloo of 
return, mar 
Lyon's Inlet. 

Shi])s' Ilaibor 
Islands. 

Lat. C()=2C'N. 

Loug.8G= G'W. 

Do 



1st Igloo, Fort 
Hope, 

2d Igloo. 
Chiistie Lake. 
Do 



:id Igloo. 
Miles Lake 



Do 



6th Igloo. 
Near Cape 
■Wcvnton. 
Do 



1867. I 

Mar. 13, 7 a. ni. . 

ui. 

7 p. m. 

14, 7 p. m. I 

1.'), 7 a. m. i 

m. 

7 p. m. 

10, 7 a. m. ' 

in. 

7 p. m. 

17, 7 a. ni. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 

18, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

10, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 ]). m. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

21, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

22, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

23, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

24, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

2.5, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

26, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

27, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

Apr.2t,9.30a.m, 

m. 

9.30 p.m. 

25,9.30 a.m. 

m, 

26,9.30 a.m. 



May 1, 7 a. m. 



7 
2,10 

3, 7 a. 



p.m. 
a. m. 



7 
4,7 



•\7 

8,7 

7 
9,7 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 

a. m. 



p. m. 



4 
10 

1 
16 
IG 
13 
16 
17 
12 
14 
15 
15 
24? 
18 
18 
20 
22 
23 
22 



Bar. 



In. 



"Wind. 



SE 9 

SE 8 

Calm 

NE 5 

E 7 

E 6 

SE 5 

SE 5 

SE 5 

Calm 

NW 1 

Calm 

SW .1 

NW 5 

NW 6 

NW 1 

NW 2 

NW 6 

NW 4 

jSW 3 

NW 5 

JfW 5 

NW 1 

SW 3 

SW 2 

NW 1 

S 2 

N 5 

NE 5 

NE 5 

SW 6 

SE 3 

SE 2 

SW 2 

SW 2 

W G 

W 1 

SW 2 

WSW 1 

SSW 2 

Calm 

W 1 

SW 1 

NE 5 

NE 7 

NE 9 

NNE 4 

NNE 3 

NNE 7 

E 3 

NE 3 

NE 2 



Sky. 



Cloudy 

Overcast. . . 

...do , 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy . ... 

Overcast 

Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy .... 
Oveicast . . 
Few clouds 
Clear 



do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

..do 

Few clouds 

Clear 

Few clouds 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy .... 

. - do 

Overcast . . 

...do 

Cloudy .... 
Overcast... 

-. do 

Cloudy .... 
Few clouds 

...do 

.. do 

...do 

.--.do 

Overcast . . 

Clear 

.. do 

Few clouds 
Overcast . . 



Cloudy . 
do .. 



Remarks. 



On journey to Cape 

SSE 

SSE 

SSE 

SSE 

SSE 

NW 

WNW 

WNW 

WNW 

WNW 

NW 

NW 



Weynion. 

Cloudy . . 
...do... 
...do .... 
Overcast. 
Cloudy . . 
Overcast. 
...do .... 



SE ., 
SE.. 

SE . 

SSE. 
SSE. 
SSE. 



Cloudy .... 
Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 
Overcast. . . 

Cloudy 

Overcast. .. 

..do 

Cloudy .... 
Overcast . . 



Snow and drift ; ther. lowest last 
Snow and drift. [night, 5°. 



Snow and drift. 
Snow and drift. 

Ther. lowest last niglit, lfi° 
Ther. lowest last night, — 7= 



Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. 
Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — IG'. 
Drift. 



Ther. lowest night, —20°. 

Ther. lowest night, —24". 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow; ther. lowestlastnight,— 4^. 

Snow. 

Snow ; ther. lowest last night , — 11°. 
Snow. 

Fog: ther. lowestlastnight, — 20°. 
Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —30°. 
Ther-. lowest last night, —2^°. 



Snow ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 26", 

Snow and drift. 

Snow and drift. 

Hazy; ther. lowestlastnight, — 12° 

Ther. lowest last night, — 12" . 
Hazy ; ther. lowest last night, — 10° 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, —5°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —10°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Snow. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, 12°. 

DrUt. 

Ther. lowest last, — 10°. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 18°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Snow and drift ; ther. lowest last 

Snow and drift. [night. 22°. 

Snow and drift. 



534 



Hairs Meteorological Journal. 



May, 1867— April, 1868. 



Locality. 



6th Igloo. 
Near Capo 

AVeynton. 
1st leioo of re- 
turn. 
Enc't No. 120. 
Sbips' Harbor 

Islands. 

Lat. GG° 26' N. 

Loug.80o 6'W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do ... 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



7th Igloo. 
Lake Nappoo. 

8th Igloo. 



ath Igloo, 
lltb I^loo, 
N. cndoiAmi- 
tokc. 
12th Igloo. 



Date. 



1867. 

May 10, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

11, 7 p. m. 



July 15, 
16, 
17, 
18, 
10, 
20, 
21, 
22, 
23, 
24, 
25, 
26, 
27, 
28, 
29, 
30, 
31, 

Aug. 1, 



7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

in. 
7 p. in. 
7 a. in. 

in. 
7 p. in. 
7 a. in. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

in. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

in. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 



Ther. 5. 



Bar. 



In. 



Wind. 



SSE. 

SSE. 
SSE. 
SW. 



SE.... 

E 

E 

E 

E 

SE ... 
SE.... 
SE.... 

E 

E 2 

ESE 3 

SE 2 

"W 1 

N.by'W....l 
N. by W... 3 

NE 2 

WSW 1 

"WSW 1 

W 1 

SSW 1 

W 1 

NW 2 

NW 1 

NW 1 

KNW 1 

N\V 4 

NW 2 

NW 6 

NW 5 

NNW 

NW 5 

NNW 5 

NNW 6 

NNW 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

Calm 

Calm 

NW 2 

NW 4 

NW 3 

Calm 

NW 3 

NAV 4 

NW 3 

NW 1 

SW 1 

Calm 

NNW 5 

NNW 6 

NW 6 

NW 1 



Sky. 



Remarks. 



Overcast. . . 

...do 

...do 

Pew clouds 



Cloudy . . . . 

do 

....do 

Overcast .. 

Cloudy 

do 

... do 

...do 

Overcast... 
....do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

....do 

...do 

Cloudy 

do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy . . . . 

Clear 

...do 

Cloudy . . . 

Few clouds 

Cloudy .... 
do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy .... 
do 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy .... 

Overcast... 

...do 



Cloudy . 
...do .. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
.. do.. 
...do .. 
...do .. 
...do .. 
...do .. 
...do .. 



Ther. lowest last night, 2^°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 

Fog. 

Ther. lowest last night, 38°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 41°. 



Kain ; ther. lowest last night, 40°. 

Kain. 

Kain. 

Ther. lowest last night, 41°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 41°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 40°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 43°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 42°. 
Ther. lowest last night., 44° 
Ther. lowest last night, 42° 

Ther. lowest last night, 40°, 

Rain. 

Ther. lowest last night, 37° 

Ther. lowest last night, 35° 

Eain. 

Ther. lowest last night, 32°, 



Ther. lowest last night, 34° 



On slcdge-jourtiey to Fury and Hccla Strait. 



1868. 
Mar. 30, 7 i 

7 
31,7 



Apr. 1,7 

4,7 

7 
5,7 

7 



p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. ra. 
a. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 
p. m. 



NW 1 

NW 7 

NW 7 

NW 1 

NW 2 

NW 1 

NW 5 

NW 1 

NW 3 

NW 2 

Calm 

NNW 1 



Few clouds 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

...do 

Cloudy .... 

Clear 

....do 

...do 

...do 

...do 



Drift. 
DrUt. 



Hall's Meteorological Journal. 
April — October., 1868. 



535 



Locality. 



13th Igloo. 

Near N. Ooglit 

Island. 

14th Igloo. 
Ooglit l.slands. 
Lat. 6S0 58'.9N. 
Long. 80° 40' W. 

5th Igloo, 
Brevooit River. 
Lat. 69° 42' N. 
Long. 85° "W. 

6th Igloo, 
Encampment 

Bay. 
ILat.690 47'.5:N. 
Long. 85° 15' W. 
Enc't No. ISS," 
Low-title Enc't. 
Lat. 66o29'.4Jf. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Enc't No. 186, 
Talloon Enc't. 
Lat. 660 37'N. 
Long. 86° 42' W. 



Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 



Date. 



Ther. 5. 



18C8. 
Apr. 6, m. 



7. 7 a. m. 



20, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

21, 9 a. m. 

m. 



Aug. 27, 7 a. m. 
28, 
29, 
30, 



7 p. m. 
, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. m. 
, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. m. 
, 7 a. m. 



31, 
Oct. 3, 

5, 

6, 

13, 

14, 

15, 

16, 

17, 

18, 

23, 

24, 

25, 

26, 



7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 



Bar. 



"Wind. 



Sky. 



In. 



WNW 4 



Calm . 
SW.. 



NN"W . 
NNW . 

N 

NW ... 
NW ... 
NW ... 
NW ... 
NNW . 
NNTV . 
NW ... 
NW... 
N"W ... 
NW ... 
Calm .. 
NNW . 

W 

NNW . 
NNW . 
NNW . 

E 

NB.... 

N 

NW ... 
NW ... 
NW... 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NW ... 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NjSTW . 
NW ... 

N 

NE .... 
NNW . 
NW ... 
NW ... 
NW ... 

E 

E 

NNW . 
NNW . 
NTSrW . 
NNW , 
NNTT . 
NNW . 
NNW . 
NNW. 



Clear . 



Cloudy . 
— do - . 



Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy .... 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Eew clouds 

Clear , 

Few clouds 

Clear 

Cloudy . . . . . 
. . do 



Cloudy 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

....do 

Few clouds 

Overcast . . 

....do 

... do 

Cloudy .... 

Overcast 

....do 

Cloudy .... 

— do 

...do , 

Few clouds 

Clear 

....do 

Cloudy .... 

Overcast. .. 

Clear 

Overcast . . . 

...do 

...do 

...do , 

...do 

.. do 

Cloudy .... 

do 

....do , 

Few clouds 

Cloud.y .... 

Few clouds 

Cloudy .... 

Clear 



Kemarks. 



Hazy. 
Hazy. 



Snow. Left thermometer on an 
island near the westeni entrance 
to Fury and Hccla Straits. 

Ther. lowest last night, 34°. 
Ther. lowes* last night, 32°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 30°. 
Ther. lowest last night, 31°. 



Ther. lowest last night, 36°. 
Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 4°. 
Fog. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest la«t night, 7°. 



Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 13°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 4*. 



Ther. lowest last night, —6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last riight, —6°. 

Aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. 

Aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 3°. 



Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift J ther. lowest last night, 3°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, —4°. 

Drift. 

Aurora. 



*The numbers for Encampments beyond No. 65 are tlioae gi\*en in the table which closes these bbservations. 



536 



Hairs Meteorological Journal. 

October — November, 1868. 



Enc't No. 188. 
Lat. C60 31'N. 
Loii''.8G°7'.5\y. 
Euc't No. 189. 
Lat. m° 35' N. 
Lon^.SSoyO'W. 
Euo't No. 190. 
Lat. 6G0 47'N. 
Long. 85° 25' W. 
Enc t No. 191. 
Lat. 06° 58' N. 
Long.85o 19' "W. 
Enc't No. 192. 
Lat. 0G°58'.5N. 
Lone. 85° 23' W. 



Enc't No. 193. 
Lat. GO' 59' N. 
Louj;. 85° W. 
Do 



Enc't No. 194. 
Lat. 07° I'N. 
Lon}:.84°52'AV. 
Enc't No. 195. 
Lai. Gr.o5G'..'"iN. 
Loni;.84° 15' \V. 
Enc't No. lUG. 
Lat. C7° N. 
Long.84° 52' W. 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5. 

o 


Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Semarki^. 


Enc't No. 186. 


18S8. 


In. 










Talloon Enc't. 


Oct. 27, 7 a. m. 


3 




NNW . . . 


.6 


Few clouds 


Drift; tbcr. lowestlastniglit, —3°. 


Lat. 6G0 37'N. 


m. 


3 




NNW ... 


. 3 


Cloudy 




i Lons.8UO 4'2' W. 


7 p. m. 


4 




NNW . - . 


.1 


..do 




Enc't No. 187. 


31, 7 a. in. 


— 7 




NNW ... 


. 8 


...do ... 


Drift; ther. lowestlastniglit, —7°. 


Lake Enc't. 


m. 


— 5 




NNW ... 


. . / 


Few clouds . 


Drift. 


Lat. 6G°33'.5N. 


7 p. m. 


— 10 




XNW .... 


..7 


...do 


Drift. 


Long.8C0 34'W. 


Nov. 1, 7, a. m. 


— 15 




NNW ... 


.-6 


Cloudy 


Drift; ther.lowcstlastniglit, — 15°. 




m. 


— 11 




NNW ... 


..2 


Few clouds . 






7 p. m. 


— 13 




NNW ... 


..1 


....do 




Do 


2, 7 a. m. 


— 10 




NW 


.2 


Clear 


TUer. lowest last night, — 13°. 




m. 


— U 




NW 


-.1 


do 






7 p. m. 


— 12 




NNW .... 


-.1 


Few clouds . 




Do 


3, 7 a. m. 


— 10 




NE 


.2 


Overcast 


Fog; ther.lowestlastnight, — 12°. 




ni. 


— 7 




N 


. 5 


...do 


Drift. 




7 p.m. 


— 9 




N 


. G 


— do 


Drilt. 


Do 


4, 7 a. m. 


— n 


.. ... 


XNVv- ... 


. 9 


Cloudv 


Drift; ther.lowestlastnight, — 17°. 




m. 


— 14 




NNW . . . 


.10 


Few clouds . 


Drift. 




7 p. m. 


- 15 




NNW . . . 


11 


....do 


Drift. 


Do . 


5 7 a m 


20 




C;iliii 




Clear 


Ther. lowest last night, —20°. 




m. 


— 17 




NNW .... 


. 1 


Few clouds 




7 p. ni. 


— 25 




NNW .... 


. 1 


Clear 




Do 


0, 7 a. m. 


— 21 




Calm 




Few clouds 


Fog; ther. lowest last night, — 20°. 




m. 


-18 




NNW .... 


..i 


--- do 


Fog. 




7 p.m. 


-24 




NNW .... 


..] 


Clear 




Do 


7, 7 a. m. 


— 12 




W 


.2 


Overcast 


Fog; ther. lowest lastnight, — 22°. 




m. 


— 10 




W 


. 1 


... do 


Fog. 




7 p. m. 


— 13 




W 


. 1 


Few clouds . 




Do 


8, 7 a. m. 


— 17 




NNW .... 


. 3 


Cloudv 


Ther. lowest last night, — 18°. 




m. 


— 12 




Nxm'W .... 


..G 


Few clouds 


^ 




7 p. m. 


— 18 




NN\V .... 


..5 


....do 




Do 


9. 7 !i. m. 


— o 




S 


. 1 


Cloudv ... 


Snow; ther.lowcstlastniglit, —12°. 




111. 


— 10 




s 


..1 


.. do'. 


Snow. 




7 p. ni. 


— 15 




NNW .... 


..2 


Clear 




Do 


10, 7 a. m. 


— 17 




NNW .... 


. 1 


Cloudv 


Ther. lowest last night, — 17°. 




m. 


— IG 




NNVV^ .... 


2 


Few clouds - 






7 p. m. 


— 24 




NNAV .... 


. 1 


Clear 





Oil jouruv.ij to LijDtiH Inlet to Xovembir 29. 



l],7;l. m. 



"iV 


Ul 


12, 7 a. 


m. 




111. 


Vp 


m. 


13, 7 a. 


m. 




m. 


Vp 


m. 


14, 7 a. 


m. 



15, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

IG, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

17, 7 a. m. 

ni. 
7 p. m. 

18, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. lu. 

19, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. ni. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. ra. 

•22, 7 a. m. 

7 p. ni. 

23, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 



— 27 

— 24 

— 25 

— 22 

— 18 

— 22 

— 14 

— 12 

— 14 

— 12 

— 10 



2 

4 

4 

12 

15 

5 

14 

12 

4 

14 

20 

24 

20 

18 

20 



— 6 
8 
8 
5 

— 6 



NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 

N , 

N 

SW... 
I SW. ... 
SW... 
SW. ... 
SW . . . . 



S 3 

S 5 

S 7 

SW 7 

SW 8 

SW 7 

E 1 

W 1 

AV 1 

NNW 1 

NK 1 

NE 2 

E 1 

SE 1 

E 4 

SE 5 

SSW 7 

S 5 

NNW 2 

NE 1 

.>NE 2 

N 2 

NNW 4 



...do 

... do 

. do 

Cloudv 

Few clouds 

...do 

Overcast... 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Cloudy . .. 
...do' 



Overcast . . . 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 
Cloudy 



Few clouds . 

Overcast 

...do 

. . do 

Cloudy .... 

..do' 

Overcast 



Cloudy 

Overcast . . 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 



Ther. lowest last night, — 27°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —25°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 28°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 14°. 

Ther. lowest last niglit, — 19°. 

Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 



Hazy; snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 4°. 

Fog. 

Fog. 



3''og. 

Drift. 

Aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 0°. 

Snow. 

Fog; ther. lowest last night, 8°. 

yok. 



Hall's Meteorological Journal. 

November— December, 1868. 



537 



Locality. 



Enc't No. 196. 
Lat. 67=' X. 
Long.840 52' \V. 
Do 



Enc't No. 197. 

Lat. 00° .WN. 

Loii!JC.85oiS)'W, 

Enc^t No. 198. 
Lat. 660 47'iW, 
Lon<!;.85^-J5'?N, 

Enc't No. 199. 
Lat. 6GO.'J5'?W 
Louc.85=3G'?N, 

Enc't No. 200. 
Lat. 6e='33'.5N, 
Lonx.8«o34'W. 
Do 



Date. 



Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do.. 
Do . 



Do 

Do 



Do 

Do 
Do 

Do 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 



1868. 

Nov. 24, 7 a. m. 

lu. 

7 p. ni. 

25, 7 a. in 

ni. 

7 p. m. 

26, 7 a. ni. 

ui. 

7 p. m. 

27,7 a.m. 

ni. 

7 p. m. 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

29, 7 a. m. 
7 p. m. 

30, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

Dec. 3, 7 a. m. 

ni. 

7 p.m. 

4, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

5, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

6, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

7, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

8, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

9, 7 a. m. 

m. 



Ther. 5. 



7p 


m. 


10,7 a 


m. 




m. 


7p 


m. 


11, 7 a 


m. 


14, 7 a 


m. 




m. 


•'v 


m. 


15,7 a 


m. 




m. 


Tp 


m. 


16, 7 a 


m. 




m. 


19, 7 a. 


m. 




m. 


7p 


m. 


20, 7 a. 


m. 




m. 


Vp 


m. 


21, 7 a. 


m. 




m. 


7 p. 


m. 


22, 7 a. 


m. 




m. 


Vp. 


m. 


23,7 a. 


ni. 




m. 


7 p. 


m. 


24, 7 a. 


m. 




m. 


7 p. 


m. 



10 
10 
8 
5 
2 

- 6 

- 10 

- 12 

- 20 

- 20 

- 22 

- 22 

- 21 

- 23 

- 20 

- 20 

- 22 
. 20 

■ 18 

- 23 

■ 22 
. 26 
. 22 
. 20 
. 4 



■ 7 

■ 14 

■ 20 
21 
22 
20 
24 
23 
23 
22 
23 
24 
23 
23 
18 

6 
3 
3 



Bar. 



In. 



Wind. 



NNW 4 

NNW 4 

NNW 2 

NE 8 

NE 7 

E 7 

E 4 

E 5 

NNW 1 

NW 1 

NE 1 

NE 3 

SW 2 

SW 4 

SW 2 



Sky. 



Remarks. 



Overcast . 
...do .... 
-. do .... 



NNW 2 

WNW 1 

NW 1 

SSE 2 

SSE 2 

SE 1 

SE 2 

E 3 

ESE 2 

E 3 

E 4 

ENE 7 

NW 5 

NW 9 

NW 9 

NNW 6 

NNW 9 

NNW 9 

NNW 8 

NNW 8 

N 9 

N 9 

N 9 

N 9 

NNW C 

NNW 5 

NW 7 

N 5 

NNW 1 

NW 1 

NE 1 

NE 1 

SE 3 

NNW 3 

NNW 6 

NNW 7 

NW 3 

NNW 3 

NNW 1 

N 1 

N 

N 5 

N. by W....7 

NW 6 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

NW 6 

WNW 1 

ENE 1 

E.SE 2 

SE 1 

N 1 

N 2 

N 1 



Overcast 

...do .... 



Ecw clouds . 
Overcast . . . 

do 

Cloudy ... 
Few clouds 
Cloudy 



Cloudy 

do 

... do 

Overcast. . . 

...do 

....do 

.- do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

....do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouda 

..do 

Clear 

Few clouds 
Cloudy 



Few clouds 

....do 

....do 

Clear 

. . do 

....do 

Overcast . . . 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast . . . 

...do 

. . do 

- -do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

Cloudv 

...do". 

....do 

.-..do 

Clear .... 
Few clouds 
Cloudy 

'.'.Ao '.".'.'.'.' 

.. do 

...do 

..do.., .. 
Clear ...... 

Few clouds . 
...do 



Ther. lowest last night, —8°. 

Drift; snow. 
Drift; snow. 
Drift; snow. 

Snow. 

Tlier. lowest last ni^ht, — 10°. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. 



Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow; ther. lowest last night, 8°. 

Suow. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest lastnijht, — 20°. 

Drilt. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowcstlastniKht, — 22°. 



Drift; ther. lowpstlastBight,— 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowcstlastmjilit,— 

Diift. " ' 

Drift; aurora. 

Ther. lowest last niglit, — 22°. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 26°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —2()°. 



Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 
Drift. 



■10°. 



Th(>r. lowest last night, —24°. 



Drift; ther. lowcstlastni-'ht,— 22°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest l.istnight, — 23°. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —18°. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 5°. 
Fog. 



538 



Hairs Meteorological Journal. 

December, 1868 — Jaxuaey, 1869. 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5. 


Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Kemarks. 


Enc'tNo. 200. 
Lat. 66° 33'.5N. 
LonE.86°34'"W. 


1868. 

Dec. 25, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

26, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

27, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

29, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

30, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

1869. 

Jan. 1, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

2, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

3, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

4, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

5, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

6, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

7, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

8, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

9, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

10, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

11, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

12, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

13, 7 a. m. 

111. 

7 p. 111. 

14, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. in. 

15, 2 a. m. 

HI. 

7 p.m. 

16, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

17, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

18, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 


o 

— 4 

— 4 

— 3 

— 3 

— 2 


— 23 

— 28 

— 24 

— 22 

— 22 

— 22 

— 21 

— 18 

— 22 

— 28 

— 22 

— 18 

— 4 

— 10 

— 12 

— 11 

— 12 

— 14 

— 20 

— 17 

— 17 

— 16 

— 10 

— 18 

— 15 

— 16 

— 18 

— 22 

— 25 

— 30 

— 30 

— 20 

— 20 

— 28 

— 28 

— 32 

— 34 

— 35 

— 36 

— .34 

— 34 

— 32 

— 33 

— 30 

— 28 

— 27 

— 23 

— 21 

— 28 

— 20 

— 25 

— 14 

— 12 

— 15 

— 8 

— 12 

— 14 

— J7 

— 14 

— 17 

— 16 

— 20 

— 22 

— 26 

— 20 

— 22 


In. 


SSE 

SB 

SSE 

SE 

Calm 

K 

ISTNW .... 
NNW.... 

NE 

N 

NW 

lorw.... 

NW 

N 

N 

NNW 


..4 
..2 
. 3 
..1 

'.'.3 
.2 
..7 
.2 
..1 
.1 
.1 
.2 
..2 
..7 
-.6 


Cloudy 

do 

....do 

Overcast 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 
.-- do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 

Clear 


i 
Ther. lowest last night, — 4°. 

Ther. lowest l^st night, —4°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 23°. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 25°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —22°. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 28°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —12°. 
Snow. 

Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther. lowest last night, —18°. 

Hazy. 

Drift; ther. lowestlaatnight,- 22°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —31°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —28°. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night,— 34°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 38°. 

Drift. 

Aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, —33°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —28°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —28°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —27°. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 15°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —18°. 

Ther. lowest last night, -17°. 

Ther. lowest last night, —27°. 


Do 


Do 

Do 


Do 


Do 





ENE 

WJNW 

WNW.... 

NE 

NNE 

N 

N 

NW 

IWW .... 

N 

N 

N 

N 

ENE 

ENE 

N 

N 

N 

N 

N 

E 

N 

N. byE... 

N... 

N 

NNW .... 
NS"W .... 
NNW .... 
NNW .... 
NNW.... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

WNW.... 
Calm 


..1 

..3 
..1 
.1 
.1 
.3 
..6 
..3 
..4 
..4 
..7 
..6 
..6 
..2 
..2 
..1 
..8 
..7 
..7 
..3 
. 2 
.3 
..2 
..3 
..4 
..8 
..7 
.8 
..7 
..6 
.4 
.3 
..3 
.3 


Overcast 

Clear 

...do 

Overcast 

...do 

... do 

Cloudy 

do 

Overcast 

...do 

...do 

...do 

....do 

...do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Few clouds . 

...do 

....do 

Cloudy 

...do 

...do 

...do 

....do 

....do 

...do 

....do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 

Clear 

Few clouds . 
...do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Do 


Calm 


Calm 


Clear 

Few clouds . 
do 


Calm 


Do 


Calm 


Calm 


Cloudy .... 

... do 

...do 

Few clouds . 

Cloudy 

do 

... do 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Few clouds . 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

do 


SE 

SE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

ESE 

ESE 

ESE 

NNW .... 
NNW .... 
NNW .... 

NW 

N 

N 


..1 
. 2 
.3 
..5 
..4 
,.1 
.2 
..2 
..1 
..9 
..7 
..7 
..2 
-.2 
..1 


Enc't Kg. 201. 
Lat. 660 37'N. 
Long.86°42'W. 


Do 


Do 





EalVs Meteorological Journal. 

January — February, 1869. 



539 



Locality. 



Enc't No. 201. 
Lat. S60 37'N. 
Long. 86° 42' "W. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Date. 



Jan. 19, 
20, 
21, 
22, 
23, 
24, 
25, 
26, 
27, 
28, 
29, 
30, 
31, 
Feb. 1, 
2, 
3, 
4, 
5, 



11, 



7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. va. 

m. 
7 p. ni. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

ID. 

7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

i, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 
, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 
7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 



Ther. 5. 



— 37 

— 36 

— 36 

— 35 

— 32 
32 

— 30 

— 29 

— 32 

— 34 

— 34 

— 35 

— 17 

— 10 

— 7 

— 10 

— 9 

— 9 

— 16 

— 16 

— 15 

— 16 

— 16 

— 16 

— 10 

— 10 

— 9 

— 18 

— 17 

— 20 

— 20 

— 18 

— 21 

— 8 

— 6 

— 6 

— 4 

— 4 

— 10 

— 20 

— 28 

— 20 

— 24 

— 17 

— 18 


1 

— 4 

— 14 

— 13 

— 16 

— 30 

— 30 

— 34 

— 38 

— 36 

— 35 

— 35 

— 33 

— 35 

— 20 

— 10 

— 24 

— 28 

— 30 

— 34 

— 37 

— 28 

— 26 

— 38 

— 30 

— 35 



Bar. 



In. 



Wind. 



NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NW 7 

N"W 8 

NW 7 

NW 8 

NW 9 

NNW 8 

NNW 8 

NW 5 

NW 8 

N"W" 8 

NW 10 

NNW 10 

N. by"W...ll 

NW 11 

NW 11 

NW 11 

NW 11 

NW 11 

KW 11 

NW 10 

NW 9 

NW 9 

NW 8 

NW 8 

NW 8 

NW 8 

NW 7 

NW 7 

NNW 5 

NNW 3 

NITW 1 

Calm 

Calm 

SE 1 

SE 2 

SE 3 

NW 4 

:mw 5 

WW 3 

NW 1 

SE 2 

SE 1 

SE 2 

SE 4 

SE 3 

NTV 2 

NW 3 

NW 5 

NTV 6 

N 1 

KNW 1 

NNW 1 

NNW 3 

NNW 9 

NNW 4 

NN"W 2 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

SE 2 

SW 1 

KNW 6 

NW 9 

JTW 8 

NW 7 

NNW 1 

NNW 2 

NNW 2 

iraw 3 

NNTV 3 

NNW 4 



Sky. 



Few clouds 

... do 

...do 

....do 

...do 

...do 

... do 

...do 

.- do 

Cloudy 

— do 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

..do 

Few clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast . . 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

..do 

Overcast. . . 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

...do. 

Clear 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast. .. 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

.. do 

Cloudy 

Clear 



Bemarks. 



Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 37°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 37°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 32°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 34°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 35°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 10°. 

Drill. 

Drilt. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 19°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —20°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —21°. 
Snow; ther. lowestlastnight, — 6°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 20°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —29°. 



Snow; ther. lowestlastnight, — 18°, 
Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 14°. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 30°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —38°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 35°. 



Snow; ther. lowestlastnight, — 37°. 

Snow. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 28°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 37°. 



Ther. lowest last night, —38°. 



540 



HaUs . Meteorological Journal. 

February — :Maech, 1869. 



Locality. 



Date. 



Enc^tNo.201. Fob. 
Lat. 6G 037' N". 
LoBg.SGo 42' W. 
Do 



Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do- 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 



Mai 



1869. 

12, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

13, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

14, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

15, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. ra. 

16, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

17, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

18, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

19, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

21, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

22, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

23, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

24, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

2r>, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

27, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

•. 1, 7 a. m. 



7 p. m. 
2, 7 a. m. 



Ther. 5. 



7 p. m. 

3, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

4, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

.I, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

0, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

7, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 



— 40 

— 36 

— 42 

— 48 

— 38 

— 44 

— 37 

— 3j 

— 40 

— 39 

— 36 

— 38 

— 26 

— 24 

— 20 

— 24 

— 25 

— 28 

— 21 

— 20 

— 18 

— 32 

— 30 

— 32 

— 38 

— 36 

— 38 

— 40 

— 36 

— 40 

— 44 

— 40 

— 42 

— 29 

— 26 

— 32 

— 20 

— 17 

— 18 

— 18 

— 15 

— 21 

— 32 

— 14 

— 14 

— 11 

— 6 

— 9 

— 12 

— 14 

— 25 

— 25 



Bar. 



In. 



"Wind. 



XN"W" 1 

KNW 3 

KjSTW 1 

Calm 

NW 1 

2S^NW 1 

NNW 6 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNAV 7 

NNW 7 

U.NW 5 

NNW 8 

NNW 9 

NNW 10 

NW e 

NW 5 

NW 1 

SE 2 

SE 5 

SE 5 

NN"W 6 

NNW 7 

KNW 6 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 5 

NNW .... 5 

K >fW 6 

NNW 5 

NNW 7 

NNW 6 

NNW 7 

NNW 6 

NNW C 

NNW 2 

SE 1 

SE 3 

SE 2 

SE 1 

NNW 2 

iS'NW 2 

NNW 1 

SE '.....l 

SE 1 

SE 4 

SE 4 

SE 4 

NW 5 

NW 

NNW 5 

NNW 1 

Calm 

NW 1 

NE 1 

E G 

E 4 

NW 2 

NW 6 

NW 2 

NW 6 

E 5 

NW 1 

SE 3 

SE 3 

SE 4 

Calm 

NNW 5 

NNW ..... 

NNW 10 

NNW 10 

NNW 10 



Sky. 



Clear 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Few clouds 

Clear 

...do 

.. do 

Few clouds 
.. do 



..do 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

...do 

Few clouds 
Overcast . . 
do 



...do 

...do 

. .. do 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

Clear 

...do 

...do 

■■ dq 

.. do 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudv 

Few clouds 
Cloudy .... 

..do' 

...do 

Overcast 

Few clouds 
Cloudy . . . . 

!!;do '.'.'.'.'. 

...do 

Overcast... 

...do 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 
... do 



Cloudy 

Overcast . . . 
Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Overcast. . . 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

...do 

.- do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

...do 



Semarks. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 41°. 
Ther. lowest last nisht, —48°. 



Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 44°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest lastnight,— 40°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 36°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, —20°. 



Fog; ther. lowest lastnight,— 28°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight, — 32°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night,— 38°. 

Diift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 40°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowest last night, — 44°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowest last night, — 42°. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, -32°. 
Ther. lowest last night, -18°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —32°. 



Snow ; ther. lowostlast niglit , — 14°, 
Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 17°. 

Drift; aurora. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 28°. 

Fog. 
Fog. 
Drift. 



Drift; fog. 
Drift. 

Ther. lov.-est last night, — 19° 



Ther. lowest last night, — 18<^ 

Drift. 

I>rift; hazy. 

Drift ; thor. lowcstlast night,— 20°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



541 



March— April, 1869. 



Locality. 



Enc't No. 201. 

Lat. 06° 37' N. 

LonK.86° 42' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



EDc't No. 202. 
N. Polo Lake. 



Enc't No. 203. 
Same. 



Enc't No. 204. 
Christie Lake. 



Enc't No. 206. 
Miles Lake. 



Date. 



1869. 
Mar. 8,7£ 



Do- 



Enc't No. 207. 



Enc't No. 208. 
Near Cape 

Lady Pellv. 
Enc't No. 209. 



Enc't No. 210. 

Enc't No. 211. 

Do 



7 
9,7 



10,7 

7 
11,7 



7 
12,7 



7 
13,7 



7 
14,7 



p. ni. 
a. m. 



a. m. 

m. 

p. lU. 



p. ui. 
a. m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a. m. 

m. 
p. m. 
a. m. 

m. 
15, 7 a. m. 



7 
10,7 



7 
17,7 



7 
18,7 



7 
19,7 



7 
20,7 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p.m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p. m. 
a. m. 



p.m. 
a. m. 



Ther. 5. 



— 15 
2 



— 10 

— 26 

— 4 

— 17 

— 2G 

— C 



— 15 

— 18 

— 8 

— 19 

— 20 

— 7 

— 18 

— 12 

7 
4 

— 4 
3 

— 5 


— 12 

— 15 



Bar. 



' p. m. 1 
Observations 



Wind. 



Sky. 



In. 

S 2 j Overcast... 

Calm do 

E 4 ...do 

E 3 Few clouds 

E 6 Clouds 

E 3 Fog 

N W 2 Few clouds 

NW 2 Clear 

N\Y 5 Cloudy... 

NNW 6 Few clouds 

NNW 2 .. do 

NNW 1 Cloudv ... 

NNW 3 Few clouds 

NNW 2 Clear 

NNW 2 Few clouds 

NNW 1 Clear 

Calm do 

NNW 3 Cloudv . .. 

N W 1 Few clouds 

NW 1 ...do 

N 3 Clear 

NNW 5 Few clouds 

NW 6 ... do 

NW 5 Clear 

NNW 5 .do 

NNW 4 Few clouds 

NNW 2 Clear 

C.nlm . Few clouds 

SE 2 Overcast... 

S 3 ... do 

S 4 ...do 

(yiilm Few clouds 

NW 3 Cloudy .... 

NNW 3 Overcast... 

NNW 7 ...do 

NNW 8 ....do 

NNW 7 Cloudy . .. 

on sledgc-journey to King IfiUiam 



Eemarks. 



Apr. 



*23, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

24, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

25, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

27, 7 a. m. 

Til. 

7 p. m. 

28, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

29, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

30, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

31,7 a. m. 

m. 

7 J), m. 

1, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. ra. 

2, 7 a. m. 

in. 
7 p. m. 

3, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 



— 24 

— 10 

— 25 

— 22 

— 16 

— 20 

— 15 

— 5 

— 14 

— 22 

1 

— 12 

— 18 

— 4 

— 10 

— 31 

— 14 

— 30 

— 30 

— 15 

— 21 

— 22 

— 12 

— 24 

— 20 

— 14 

— 29 

— 18 

— 12 

— 28 

— 29 

— 15 

— 23 



NNW 

NNW a 

NNW 7 

NNW 

NNW 6 

NNAT 



NW 
NW 

NW 

sw.. 
sw.. 
sw.. 
sw.. 
sw.. 
sw.. 

Calm 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 



NW , 
NW , 
NNW 
NNW 
W 

w.... 

NW .. 
W 



W 

W ... 
W... 

w... 
w... 

Calm 

W 1 



Few clouds 

(ylear 

Cloudy 

Overcast . . 
Cloudy .... 

do 

Overcast 

Few clouds 

..do 

Clear 

.. do 

...do 

. do 

.. do 

.. do 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

Clear 

.. do 

. . do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

do 

Cloudy 

Clear 

...do , 

..do 

...do 

.. do 



Ther. lowestlastnight, — 5°. 

Snow. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 29°. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 27°. 



Drift; ther. lowestlastnight —26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 24°. 



Snow ; thei . lowestlastnight, — 21°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, — 4°. 

[night,— 3°. 
Drift; snow; ther. lowest last 
Drift; snow. 
Drift. 
s Land. 

Drift ; ther. lowestlastnight, — 24°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,— 26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowestlastnight,- 21°. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 24°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —27°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 35°. 
Thor. lowest last night, — 33°. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 27°. 
Ther. h)WrMt last night, — 27". 
Ther. lowest last night, — 3SP. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 32°. 



* Hall discovers that he has lost two days; probably some time in the winter. 



542 



UaWs Meteorological Journal. 



April, 1869. 



Locality. 



Enc't Ko. 212. 



Enc't No. 213. 
Lat. 68° VS. 
Long:. 88° 48' W. 
Enc't No. 214. 
Lat. 68° 15' N. 
Loiifr.890 17' W. 
Enc't No. 215. 
Lai. 08° 22'.5 N. 
Long. 89° 42' W. 

Enc't No. 210. 
Lat. 08°2e'N. 
Lons.S9°53'W. 
Enc't No. 217. 
Lat. C8° 28' N. 
Long. 90° 7'W. 
Do 



Date. 



Ther. 5. 



Enc't No. 218. 

Lat. 68° 30'. 5 N. 

Lon.90"28'5W. 

Do 



Enc't No. 219. 
Lat. 68°29'N. 
LonK.90°44'"W. 
Enc't No. 220. 
Lat. 68° 26' N. 
Lon.91°07'.5W. 
Do 



Do. 



Enc't No. 221. 

Lat. 68°31'N. 

LonK.91o30'"W 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 



Enc't No. 222. 

L.at. 08°3C'N. 

LonK.92° 3'W. 

Do 



Enc't No. 223. 
Lat. 08° 24' N. 
Loup. 92° '22' W 
Enc't No. 224. 
Lat. 08° 30' N. 
Long. 02° 45' W 
Do 



Enc't No. 225. 
Lat. 08O30'N. 
Lons.JOo 20' W 



1869. 
Apr. 4, 7 a. m. 
m. 
7 p. m. 

5, 7 iv. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

6, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p.m. 

7, 7 a. m. 



7 p. va. 

8, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

9, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

10, 7 a. va. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

11, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

12, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

13, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

14, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

15, 7 a. m. 

m. 
7 p. m. 

16, 7 a. m. 



7 p.m. 
17, 7 a. m. 



7 p. m. 

18,7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

19, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

20, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

21, 7 a, m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

22, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. in. 

23, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

24, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

25, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

20, 7 a. m. 



7 p. m, 
27, 7 a. m 



— 24 

5 

15 
20 
10 
17 
27 
19 
10 

6 

— 

— 4 
4 

— 2 
lU 
14 


2 
20 
6 
8 
9 

— 15 

— 14 

— 8 

— 18 

— 22 

— 11 

— 20 

— 17 

— 10 

— 18 

— 18 

— 12 

— 10 



Bar. 



12 
2 


m. 6 

7 p. m. — 5 



In. 



— 9 I 



Wind. 



Sky. 



AVNW... 
SE .. . . 


...2 
.. 5 


SE 


...9 


SE 


5 



SE.. 
SE.. 
SE.. 
SE.. 
SE 



4 

4 

.1 

, 1 

1 



\VNW 3 



S"W 4 

SW 6 

W ....... 2 

NW 2 

NW 4 

NW 1 

W 3 

N 1 

Calm 

Calm . 

Calm 

SW 3 

W C 

NW 7 

W G 

W 7 

W 1 

N 2 

N 3 

N 4 

NNE .4 

NNE 3 

NW 2 

AV 8 

W 9 

W 9 

W 9 

W 9 

W 9 

W 4 

W 2 

E 4 

W 3 

NE 4 

NE 5 

NE 

NE 5 

NE 5 

NE 7 

NE 7 

NE 7 

NE 5 

E 2 



NW ... 

AV 

E 

S 

AV 

AV 

AV 

W 

E 

E 

SAV 

E 

AV 

W 

W 

W 

W 

AV 

W 



Cloudy 



Overcast. 
...do.... 

...do .... 

...do.... 
...do .... 

...do .... 
...do.... 



...do. 
...do 
...do 
. . do . 
...do 
. . do 
...do , 



Overcast . . . 

.. do 

...do 

...do 

-. do 

Few clouds 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few clouds 

.-..do 

...do 



Few clouds 
...do 



Cloudy . . 
Overcast 
...do .... 
...do ... 
...do ... 
....do .... 
...do .... 
.. do . .. 
.. do .... 
.. do .... 



Kemarks. 



Few clouds 

Clear 

...do 

Cloudy .... 
Overcast . . . 

.. do 

do 

Cloudy . .. 

do 

-. do 

Overcast. . . 

.. -do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Few clouds 

...do 

Clear . 
Few clouds 
Clear 



Fog; thor. lowest lastnight, — 33°. 

Snow. 

Snow ; drift. 

Snow; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Snow. 

Tliick weather; ther. lowest last 

night, 2°. 
Snow. 
Drift. 
Ther. lowest last night, — 10°. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 2°. 
Snow. 

Fog ; ther. lowest last night, 0°. 

Snow. 

Snow ther. lowcstlastnight, — 1°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift; ther. lowcstlastnight, — 24°. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, —33°. 
Ther. lowest last night, —23°. 



Drift; ther. lowestla.st night,— 26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 20°. 

Haze. 

Thor. lowest last night, — K)°. 

Snow. 

Snow. [night, 4°. 

Drift: snow; ther. lowest last 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ; ther. lowcstlastnight,— 6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Fog. 

Fog ; haze. 

Ther. lowest last night, —20°. 



Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther. lowest last night, 8°. 
Snow. 

Ther. lowest last night, 3°. 



Ther. lowest last night, — 15°. 
Fog. 



HaWs Meteorological Journal. 



543 



April, 1869. 



Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 5. 


Bar. 
In. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Eemarks. 


Enc't No. 226. 
Lat. 68° 38' N. 
Lons. 93" 52' W. 
Do 


1869. 

Apr. 28, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p. m. 

29, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 

30, 7 a. m. 

m. 

7 p.m. 




2 

10 

7 

26' 


■W 2 


Cloudy .... 
....do 

Overcast... 

...do 

....do 

....do 

Cloudy 

do 

....do 


Snow. 
Snow. 
Snow. 

Drift. 
Drift. 


SE 

SE 

SE 

SE 


...3 
...4 
.. 7 

. 7 


Enc't No. 227. 
Lat. 68° 40' N. 
Long.94o06'.5"W". 


SE 

SE 


...6 
.. 4 


17 
23 
15 




SE 

SE 


...5 
...5 



Note explanatory of the break from April, 1867, to May, 1868. — By reference to page 320 (Chapter XI) it will be 
seen that HaU's joumalizinj; during the latter part of the year 1867 and the first part of 1868 was occasional only. 
No meteorological notes are found for that period among his papers. 



544 



HalVs Encampments. 



[1864-1866. 



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1866— 1867.] 



HalVs Encampments. 



545 



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-35 



546 



HaWs Encampments. 



[i86r. 



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1867-1868.] 



HalVs Encampments. 



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548 



HalVs Encampments. 



[1868. 



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1S«S-IS«9.I 



IlalVs Encampments. 



549 



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550 



HaJTs Encampments. 



11869. 



O 



H 

p. 





Same Encamp't as No. 211. 

Same Encamp't as Low Tide. 
North of Potter Island. 

On the Ansel Gibbs, bound 
for the United States. 


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APPENDIX III 



OiN THE GEOLOGY OF FROBISHER BAY AND FIELD BAY; A DESCRIP- 
TION OF THE GEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS MADE BY C. F. HALL 
ON HIS FIRST VOYAGE, 1860-'62. 



These collections were presented to Amherst College, Mass., by J. J. Copp, Esq., of Grotou, Conu., 
a graduate of the college. They are discussed in the following pages by Prof. B. K. Emer- 
son, Professor of Geology in that Institution. They are appended to the Narrative as 
exhibiting additional proofs to those given in Chapters I and II of Hall's labors, which 
seeured the outfit for his Second Expedition. 



A^PPENDIX III 



ON THE GEOLOGY OF FROBISHER BAY AND FIELD BAY. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTIONS MADE BY C. F. HALL 

DURING HIS FIRST EXPEDITION IN THE 

ARCTIC REGIONS, 1860-'62. 



By Prof. Ben.t. K. Emerson, of Amherst Colle(/e, Masmchvsetts. 



Oil the return of Mr. C. F. Hall to New London, Conn., from his First Ex- 
pedition to the Arctic Regions, he turned over a part of his collections, appar- 
ently the portion which he considered of the greatest geological interest, to the 
New York Lyceum of Natural History ; and it was the subject of brief reports to 
the Lyceum by Mr. R. P. Stevens upon the fossils and by Mr. Thomas Egleston 
upon the rocks and ores. Mr. Stevens gave a list, without description, of seven 

species of fossils, viz : 

No. of 
specimens. 

Maclurca magna (Les. ) 7 

" " casts of lower surface ;{ 

Endoceras proteiforme ? ( Hall) 1 

Orthoceras (badly worn) ;{ 

MvliolUes (new species) '~J 

Heliopora (new species) 1 

Halysih's caknulaia (Fisch.) 1 

liecejHaculUes (new species) 1 

Mr. Stevens accompanied this list with notes of the stratigraphical position 
of the species in New York, and with the remark, " This collection was made at 
the head of Frobisher Bay, lat. 03° 44' N. and long. 68° 56' W. from Greenwich, 

553 



554 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geologieal Collections. 

at a point w bicli Mr. Hall says is a mountain of fossils similar to the limestone 
bluff at Cincinnati, with which he is familiar."* 

These specimens came manifestly from the ridge at the head of the bay, to 
which Hall gave the name Silliman's Fossil Mount, and which in his Narrative he 
compares to the Cincinnati bluff. Another portion of the collections was stored 
at New London, and, after the departure of Hall ui)on his second visit to the Arc 
tic Regions, was presented to the cabinet of Amherst College by Mr. J. J. Copp, of 
Gi'otoH; Conn., a graduate of the college. It was contained in three large boxes, 
weighing about two hundred pounds; they had not been opened since they were 
packed by Hall in Rescue Harbor, Field Bay. The collection presented, on its 
o]jening, a very unpromising appearance. Having been packed with greasy and 
sooty papers in the Ujloos of the natives or upou the deck of the whaler, and hav- 
ing remained untouched for so long a time, it was covered with mold, and many 
of the labels were illegible. Fortunately, the most interesting specimens had the 
locality marked in ink or pencil upon the surface of the rock itself, and in other 
cases, a studj' of Hall's Narrative enabled one to restore with a good degree of 
certainty the exact localities from which they came. The localities, however, 
quoted in the following paper are, in all cases, those given by Hall himself.t 



* Eeport on the geological and miueralogical specimens collected by Mr. C. F. Hall in Fro- 
bisher Bay. — Am. Jour. Sc, 2d series, vol. 35, 1863, pp. 293, 294; also "Hall's Arctic Researches," 
App. X, p. 594. 

tThe boxes contained specimens from other Arctic Regions besides Baffin's Laud, viz: (1) 
Several from Holsteinborg, Greenland, picked up by Hall when his ship visited that port, and 
(2) several from Melville and Beechy Islands, manifestly collected by McClintock's Expedition in 
1853*, and a number from both shores of Smith's Sound. I think it probable that they were pre- 
sented to Captain Hall in Holsteinborg and packed by him with his other things in Rescue Har- 
bor. It is certain that tlie boxes were not opened after their arrival in this country until they 
lame into my ])ossession. 

The specimens were as follows: 

HOLSTEINBORG. 

l.t Gray translucent quartz. 

2. White granular orthoclase. 

3. Gabbro, a rock of medium grain, consisting of a green compact feldspar resembling 
saussurite, pearl-gray to greenish-gray diallage, brown biotite in abundance, quartz sparingly, 
and carbonates, as indicated by long-continued effervescence with acids. 

Tlu! brown mica is arranged in one ])lane, giving the rock a complete gneissoid structure, 
making the rock in fact a middh; form between gneiss and gabbro. Two narrow quartz veins 
traverse the rock, one in the plane of lamination and the other at right angles thereto. 

4. Pale flesh-colored black mica gneiss. 

5. Dark gray thin-bedded black mica gneiss. 
(>. Gray-bhick mica gneiss. 

7. Reddish hornbleudic gneiss. 

'Journal of tho Koyal Dublin Soc. 1857, p. 215. 

t Till' iiiiiiiImth refer to iiiimbers attached to tho specimens in the coUection of AmherHt College. 



Profpssor Emerson or/ Hairs Geolof/ical Collections 555 

The common crystalline rocks of the Arctic rej^ions, granitic and gneissose, 
made up the bulk of the collection. With these were traps, red massive quartz- 
ites, sandstones, gray and cream-colored dolomites and limestones, and a few 
pieces of black cherty and dark fissile limestones, which furnished so manj' fossils 
new in these regions, and coining from a horizon which had not before been known 
to be represented so far north — that of the Utica slate — that it seemwl desirable 
1o ])ublish their occurrence; and as the west side of Baffin's Bay is so little open 
to exploration, I have given a somewhat detailed account of all the s])ecimens 
which came into my hands. I was the more desirous to do this in order to add 
something to the already very considerable scientific results of this unique 
Expedition, as the single member thereof was accustomed to call it. By the 
careful exploration of Frobisher Bay Hall filled out a considerable gap in the 
geographical knowledge of the northern regions. His full investigations of 
the relics of Frobisher cleared up many points in the history of his brave prede- 
cessor, and recalled very ^•ividly the famous gold excitement of the times 

lUOM BARROW STRAITS. 

8. Browu coal. Thiu laminated, ■with joints at right angles to the lauiiua;; color dull 
black, powder deep reddish-brown; burns with yellow flame, and the flame continues after it is 
removed from the gas-jet; leaves a white ash, retaining the shape and nearly the size of the piece 
employed. Nothing extracted by ether. 

Labeled, '• Specimen of coal from the center of Melville Island. Picked up 1853. — Bj:d- 

FORD PiM." 

This is manifestly a specimen I'escued from the collections abandoned by Captain McClin- 
tock's party in the memorable sledge journey across Melville Island.* 

9. A piece of fossiliferous Upper Silurian limestone, containing the following forms in siich 
poor preservation that the determination is in some cases rather uncertain : Airypa phoca, Salter, 
sp. (young state) ; Loxonema Rossi, Houghton; Favosites gothlandica, Gold. ; Petrcea fti«a(?), Lous.; 
Cladojwra seriata, Hall; Halysites catenulata, L. 

Labeled, " Geological Specimens of the Parry Islands. Picked up on Beechy Island, east 
of the group, 18.5fi. — Bedford Pi:\i." 

FROM smith's sound. 

10. A light gray grauulite, quartz, orthoclase, and garnet, passing abruptly into a black 
mica gneiss. 

Locality, Etah Bay, North Greenland. 

11. Protogine. Deexi flesh-red orthoclase, a bright grass-green chloritic mineral (H = 1.5) 
and biotite altered torubellan, the latter irj small quantity. It seems probable that the chloritic 
mineral, which has exactly the properties of viridite, is aproductof the decomposition of biotite, the 
rubellau representing an intermediate stage. The rock was then originally a red biotite-grauite. 
one of the commonest rocks in the Arctic region. 

Locality, Etah Bay. 

12. Hornblende Schist. For the most part greenish-black hornblende, with a little brouze- 
colored mica and quaiiz. 

Locality, Etah Bay. 

' Remiiiisociicos of Ai-otic Ice-Travel, Jouraal Roy. Dublin See. 1857, pp. 235, 236. 



556 Profeftsor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collection s. 

of Elizabeth. The coals and flaxes brought from England, the anvils and 
trenches, the blooms made in testing for gold, the prospecting-holes, and the masses 
of the " black stone like unto coal," which the London jewelers had declared 
to be gold-bearing, and the full traditions of the natives, all seem like a chapter 
out of our own Western history. " His long and intimate association with the 
luuuit makes his book a mine ot information in Ethnology, and the geological 
collections made by him give us the only information concerning the occurrence 
of the Lower Silurian in the whole of Arctic America north of Eui)ert's Land, 
with the single exception of the fossils collected by Captain McOlin1;ock and 
described by Houghton.*" These were : 

1. Maclurea arctica, Houghton, near M. magna, in white Silurian dolomite from 

Depot Bay, in Be Hot's Straits, 72° N., 94° W. 

2. The same with Chwtetes lycoperdon, H., associated with Upper Silurian fossils 

at Fury Point, 72° 50' N., 92° W. 

3. M. arctica, Hough., Ormoceras crebriseptum, H., Huronia vertebralis, Stokes, 

Orthoceras Canadense, B., Receptaculetes neptuni^ Def., from the west coast 
of King William's Land. 

4. Orthoceras moniliforme, H., Cape Riley, North Devon. 

These localities lie many hundred miles to the northwest of Frobisher Bay, 
and are characterized over wide areas by buff and cream-colored dolomites and 
limestones, are succeeded by the limestones of the Upper Silurian and Carbon- 

i:-5. A reddish-gray quartzite in contorted layers, the ends of the laminae coated with a 
cm-ious coraloidal deposit of brick-red limonite. Locality, Etah Bay. 

14. Beautiful milky quartz, limpid, with pale purple opalescence. Locality, Etah Bay. 
Ui. Coarse garnetiferous gneiss. Fi'om Sontag's grave, at Port Foulke, North Greenland. 

16. Many fragments of same opalescent quartz as above (5). From Sontag's grave. 

17. Coarse granite ; gray translucent quartz ; flesh-colored feldspar in large crystalline 
masses, aud no mica. Locality, Esquimaux Point, North Greenland. 

18. Flesh-colored garnetiferous gneiss, black mica. Esquimaux Point. 

19. A very even-bedded friable quartz sandstone, splitting in laminte 17'"'" thick, and quite 
free from any impurity. The specimen is pure enough for the manufacture of glass, resembling 
closely 1 he St. Peter's sandstone at St. Paul. 

It is labeled, "From Capo Alexander, L. 78° 20' N., L. 73° W." 

These sandstones are mentioned by Sutherland as stretching from Wolstonholme Sound to 
(Jape Alexander, nearly always horizontal (Proc. Geo. Soc. 18.'):?, p. 298), and are compared by 
McClintock with (he sandstone from Byani Martin's Island from the base of the Carboniferous, 
(.lournal Hoy. Dublin Soc. 18.57, p. 199.) 

20. Coar.se granitoid gneiss with large red garnets (12-14'"""). Locality, Cape Isabella, 
Griuuell Land. 

21. Laminated garnetiferous gneiss banded with black mica. Cape Isabella, 

22. Gray granular quartzite, the grains separated by films of kaolin. Cape Isabella. 
•Jonnial of the Royal Dublin Society, July, 1860, Vol. Ill, p. ."iS. 



Professor JEmerson on MalVs Geological Collections. bbl 

iferons, and farther north and west by Jurassic strata, while the outcrops in and 
around Frobisher Bay are in the immediate vicinity of and apparently skirting 
the crystalline rocks, are dark colored, largely argillaceous inshore deposits, con- 
taining a very different assemblage of fossils (though of about the same age) 
from the more western localities, viz: Calymene senaria, Con.; Triarthrus Beckii, 
Green ; Endoceras proteiforme, H., tiattened as in the Utica slate Diplograptvs 
dentatus, Br.; Climacographis quadrimucronatus, H. ; C. Mcornis, H.; Lingula 
curta, H. 

The localities around Frobisher Bay bear, therefore, somewhat the same 
relation to those of Prince William's Land and IJorth Devon which the typical 
localities of the Utica slate and the Hudson Eiver group in New York bear to the 
more western areas of the Mississippi Basin, In Frobisher Bay we have a 
group of fossils unmixed with those of earlier or later date, which mark the 
exact horizon of the Utica slate, and the rocks have a lithological facies recall- 
ing that of the typical localities of this epoch in Kew York. In the north- 
western area the whole Paleozoic series seems to be represented by a nearly 
unbroken succession of limestones, and the subdivisions merge into each 
other as in the central basin of the United States. So that Houghton says 
"the whole of North Somerset, Boothia Felix, King William's Land, and Prince 
of Wales Land is thus proved to be of Silurian age, although the evidence as to 
whether it is Upper or Lower Silurian is contradictory, as characteristic fossils of 
both epochs are found throughout the whole area."* We must, however, associate 
the locality at the extreme upper or western end of the bay already alluded to as 
Silliman's Fossil Mount with the calcarious facies of the Arctic Silurian as described 
by Houghton, since in the smaU list of seven species published by Stevens and 
quoted above, five are probably identical wij;h those described by Houghton, and 
the two others are corals, described as new species ; so that this locality extends 
the great Arctic limestone area greatly to the southeast, and makes it compar- 
able in size with the central basin of the United States. 

CRYSTALLINE EOCKS. 
23. Geanite. 

A large and a small mass of very coarse red granite, containing deep flesh- 
red orthoclase in large crystalline masses, a much smaller amount of gray quartz 
and lepidomelane in black and greenish-black scaly corrugated plates. 

Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 

' Loc. cit., p. 53. 



558 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

24. Gbanitk. 

lu several packages, without special labels, and coming i)robably from 
Field and Grinnell Bays, there were above a dozen specimens of the same coarse 
orthoclase-lepidomelane granite as 23, showing it to be very prevalent. Tn fact, 
many of the descrii>tions ot rocks given bj- Hall will apply only to granite, and, 
taken in connection with the specimens collected, its wide distribution is placed 
beyond doubt. 

Thus in his first excursion in Frank Clark Harbor, on the south side of Cor- 
nelius Grinuell Bay, after mentioning prominent veins of white quartz, Hall 
says : " The rocks about here were indeed very remarkable. One pile consisted 
entirely of mica, quartz, and feldspar, and the nearest approach I can give to its 
appearance is to let the imagination conceive that the feldspar was in a state 
like putty, and worked up into various uncouth figures, the spaces between each 
being filled up with mica, and quartz. Then would there be an appearance to 
what I observed on these rocks, only that ages and ages should be added to cut 
out deeply the mica and quartz [stands thus in the original], leaving the pure 
quartz veins unaffected." p. 112. 

At Point Tik-koon, in Countess of Warwick's Sound, he mentions " granite, 
the usual high old rocks." 
2r). Granite. 

In a large package labeled simply "Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay," and con- 
taining many fragments of Silurian limestones and schistose rocks, there were 
also many fragments of quartz and feldspar, which manifestly came from a very 
coarse granite of a much lighter color than that last mentioned. 
20. (Jkanitk. 

Coarse red feldspar granite exactly like 25. 

Locality, Kiien-gum-mi-ooke. 

27. CrRAMTE. 

A typical fine-grained grauit(^ of deep red color. Gray, granular (juartz 
slightly mon; abundant than the deej) tlesh-red orthoclase. The latter in rounded 
crystalline grains. Dark green mica in minute scales and pyritein small quantity. 

Locality, Frobisher Bay. 

28. Pegmatite. 

Two specimens showing deep flesh-red orthoclase scattered in irregular 
crystalline masses through gray quartz, the quartz greatly predominating. 
Frobisher Bay. 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 559 

29. Granite. 

A pale reddish rock very fresh in the interior but much weathered on the 
exterior, containing a fresh transhicent plagioclase in large quantity, limpid 
slightly amethystine quartz, and sparingly black shining biotite. 

Locality, Frobisher Bay. 

30. Granite. 

A coarse-grained granite, containing flesh-red orthoclase and gray plagio- 
clase in large masses, dark smoky quartz and black mica in small quantity. 

From a package labeled " From various places up Bay of Frobisher and near 
head of it." 

31. Granite. 

A peculiar very coarse-grained leek-green rock, consisting principally of 
grayish to deep leek-green plagioclase, in large cleavable individuals, showing 
very fine triclinic striation, gi'ay translucent quartz, very little flesh-colored ortho- 
clase, and large contorted plates of black shiny lepidomelane. 

Frobisher Bay. 

32. Granite. 

A deep-red rock, fine-grained, with abundant fresh plagioclase, orthoclase, 
black biotite, and large red garnets. 
Frobisher Bay. 

33. Pyritiferous granite. 

A coarse-grained very quartzose granite, with much pyrite in large, quite 
distinct, crystals. Biotite and felds])ar occur very sparingly. The quartz is 
smoky to slightly amethystine. By the decomposition of the pyrite the rock has 
upon the surface and in the fissures a very rusty and glazed appearance; the feld- 
spar is changed entirely to whitish kaolin and the biotite to rubellan. 

Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 

34. Granite. 

A black mica granite passing into quartzite. 

35. Granite. 

A beautiful fine-grained granite of dark color, containing abundantly red 
brown biotite unusually fresh and shining, gray quartz, from which the feldspar 
is with diflBculty distinguished. 
30. Granite. 

A very granular even-grained rock, containing orthoclase, quartz, and bio- 
tite in about equal quantity. 

Labeled, " Azoic Rocks, Frobisher Bay." 



560 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 

37 Gneiss. 

A jiiuy griiiiitoid biotitc gneiss. 
Noitli side of Frobisher Bay. 

38. Gneiss. 

A liiige water-worn bowlder of flesli-colored biotite-gueiss of even medium 
grain, and quite uudecomposed. 

39. Gneiss. 

A large fresh piece of typical gneiss, flesli-colored orthoclase, and more 
sparingly gray plagioclase, fresh black biotite, and limpid quartz. A single 
crystal of wine-yellow titanite. 

Frobisher Bay. 

40. Gneiss. 

A much decomposed biotite-gneiss. 
French Head, Field Bay. 

41. Magnetite gneiss. 

A large unweathered specimen of typical granitoid gneiss, agreeing exactly 
with the second quality of the rock quarried at Westerly, R. I. ; flesh-colored 
orthoclase, sparingly gray plagioclase, fresh black biotite, very sparingly muscovite 
and magnetite, and extremely minute crystals of pyrite. 

Frobisher Bay. 

42. Magnetite gneiss. 

Same as 41, except that tlie foliation is expressed more by the ari-angement 
of tlie flesh-colored orthoclase in bands and less by the position of the biotite. 
I*'robislier Bay. 

43. Magnetite gneiss. 

A rock of medium grain, consisting of rounded portions of orthoclase, quartz, 
and magnetite of about etiual size and quantity, without trace of mica or any 
accessory. The rock is granitoid in texture, yet distinctly foliated, owing to the 
.position of the ditt'erent feldspar crystals ; tinged with rust.. 

Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 

44. Magnetite gneiss. 

A large freshly-broken specimen of gray gneiss. In a reddish-white mix- 
ture of <iuartz and feldspar arc scattered biotite and magnetite in imperfect dodec- 
ahedrons, with striated faces 5-2 mm. diameter. The magnetite is much more 
abundant than the biotite, and both are arranged ])aralli'l to the foliation ])lanes. 
A Acin ol' segregation runs through the specimens, consisting of flesh-colored 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 561 

orthoclase, gray plagioclase and quartz much more coarsely crystallized tliau in 
the mass of the rock. 

45. Magnetite gneiss. 

A fine-grained granitoid gneiss, having at first sight somewhat the appear- 
ance of andesite. The pearl-gray ground mass is a finegrained mixture of quartz 
and a feldspar, mostly tricliuic, and scattered in this abundantly are grains of 
magnetite, and sparingly brown decomposed biotite. 

French Head, Field Bay. 

46. Magnetite gneiss. 

A decomposed granitoid gneiss, closely resembling 43. This occurs in sev- 
eral large pieces. 

47. Magnetite gneiss. 

Contains orthoclase, albite, and quartz in about equal quantities, less abun- 
dantly magnetite, and as a product of alteration chlorite. The rock is fine- 
grained, fresh, ijale flesh-colored, mottled with spots of dark green color, consist- 
ing of magnetite and chlorite, which lie in the plane of stratification. The chlorite 
fills also as thin seams a system of cleavage cracks passing at large angle to the 
cleavage. 

Examined in thin section, the feldspars are for the most part water clear, 
showing only incipient clouding of kaolin on fissures, and extremely delicate and 
minute dentritic infiltrations of ochre. The albite is predominant, and here and 
there grown together with orthoclase. The quartz contains in immense numbers 
small round and large irregular and contorted fluid inclosures, with very large 
bubbles, moving only when heated. The magnetite grains — i to 1 mm. in 
diameter — are surrounded by a ring of bright green plates of chlorite, and from 
these as centers the chlorite passes outward in the fissures, producing the patches 
of green color. , 

Locality, Frobisher Bay. 

48. Magnetite gneiss. 

A fine-grained granitoid mixture of quartz, orthoclase, and sparinglj' a 
tricliuic feldspar, to which granular magnetite, arranged in parallel blotches, gives 
a rudely gneissoid structure. This and the foregoing agree exactly with the Lau- 
rentian gneisses from Grenville, Canada. 

Labeled, " From various places up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 

49. Graphitic gneiss. 

Two large and many small specimens of a decomposed and rusty granitoid 
gneiss of a grey color when fresh. It contains a dark-brown mica, minute crystals 
S. Ex. 27 36 



562 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

of magnetite, and much disseminated graphite in scales up to 1 mm. in size. The 
rock is uniformly much decomposed, and coated in many places with a secondary 
deposit of siderite and limonite. 

Various places in Frobisher Bay. 

50. Epidotic gneiss. 

Small fragments of a red granitoid gneiss with reticulated veins of epidote, 
and of a red gneiss passing into petrosilex and colored apparently by epidote. 

51. Schistose gneiss. 

A broad freshly-broken plate of very thin-bedded biotite gneiss, the feldspar 
not abundant and wholly triclinic. 
Frobisher Bay. 

52. Geanulite. 

A granitoid gneiss, wherein red garnets (1-3 mm.) replace the mica entirely. 
Labeled, "Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 

53. Banded mica schist. 

A large piece of schist, containing biotite and quartz, arranged in black hori- 
zontal bands, 1-12 mm. wide, of fresh black biotite' and granular quartz, the inter- 
vening bands containing little or no mica, and consisting of quartz of two kinds : 
{a) a reddish somewhat friable granular quartz, through which run (6) flat plates 
of a gray translucent infiltrated quartz, placed parallel to the bedding, and mani- 
festly of later formation. 

54. Normal mica schist. 

A typical mica schist of medium grain splitting into flat thin plates, con- 
taining only quartz and biotite much weathered. 

Labeled, " From trench dug by Martin Frobisher, 1578. Ni-oun-te-liliJ^ This 
is an island on the north side of Frobisher Bay. 

55. Mica schist. 

A black wavy mica schist, consisting of black to bronze colored biotite, with 
little quartz. 

Labeled, " French Head, FivU Bay." 
5G. Mica schist. 

A rock agreeing closely with 55, but containing moi'c quartz and a little 
feldspar. 

Labeled, "From various places up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 
58. Petrosilex. 

A band of black compact hornstone 18 mm. wi(l(> runs through a piece of 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 663 

black mica granite like No. 35. It has splintery fracture, and shows glistening- 
points of quartz upon fresh surfaces. 

59. Petrosilex. 

A fresh leek-green felsite or petrosilex weathering white, agreeing closely 
with the green i^etrosilex from Pelham, Mass., which has passed under the name 
of " Shay's flint;" and this rock proves, like that from Pelham, to be a very 
fine-grained silicious variety of hornblendic gneiss. This conclusion is based on 
a study of thin sections of both varieties. 

60. Banded hornblendic gneiss. 

Greenish-black granular hornblende, granular quartz, and some feldspar, 
mostly triclinic. The banded structure is caused by the interposition of more 
compact layers of quartz and feldspar; a little biotite present in brown decom- 
posed scales. 

61. Banded hornblendic gneiss, 

A large mass similar to 60, the dark layers finer grained, and the quartz- 
feldspar layers thick and irregular. 

62. Hornblendic gneiss. 

A thin laminated rock, containing abundantly white to greenish muscovite, 
dark brown hornblende, quartz, and feldspar ; the latter in one instance tricUnic. 
The verj^ bright pearly luster of the mica gives the rock a peculiar sheen upon 
the cleavage face which disajJiJears entirely in other directions. 

Labeled, " Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 

63. HORNTSLENDIC GNEISS. 

Granitoid, with white and red feldspar, black granular hornblende, and 
green mica. 

Locality, French Head, Field Bay. 

64. Foliated hornblendic gneiss. 

Thin folia of black to greenish-black hornblende, separate broader bands of 
a mixtui'e of milk-white orthoclase and quartz, forming a rock of ver\- attractive 
appearance. 

65. Syenite. 

Granitoid and of medium grain. The rounded spots of white orthoclase 
stand out on a background of blackish-greeu hornblende. 

Labeled, " Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 
60. Hornblende schist. 

Several pieces of schist, consisting of black granular hornblende and quartz, 
in one case containing a little triclinic feldspar and clialcopyrite. 



564 Professor Emerson on Hall's Geological Collections 

Labeled, " Azoic Eocks, Frobisher Bay." 

07. Hornblende schist. 

Several pieces resembling 60, but finer grained and more schistose. 
Labeled, " From various places up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 

08. QUAKTZITE. 

Three large masses of a compact jaspery quartzite of deep red color and 
broad conchoidal fracture. They are only slightly banded by a slight concentra- 
tion of the iron in broad bands, and are remarkably homogeneous, and free from 
any other impurities except the red oxyde of iron. They were marked (1) in ink, 
and seem to me to have been gathered by HaU during his first long excursion 
along the north shore of Frobisher Bay, but of this I cannot be certain. 

09. Quartzite. 

Several pieces of a rusty-red quartz sandstone, which seem to be only 
weathered pieces of the same kind as 08. 

70. Quartzite. 

A water- worn pebble of a similar deep red quartzite, slightly micaceous, 
from French Head, Field Bay. 

The rocks described under the last three numbers might almost as well 
have been associated with the Devonian sandstone of Lupton Sound, described 
later (No. 108), or the sandstone from Cape Alexander (vide ante No. 19). It is, 
however, much more indurated, especially 2?o. 08, and has a much older look. 

MINERALS AND ORES. 

71. Quartz. 

Four large pieces of translucent vein quartz. 
From French Head, Field Bay. 

72. Quartz. 

White translucent vein quartz. 

Labeled, " From various plaxies up Bay of Frobisher and near head of it." 

73. (Quartz. 

A fine piece of rose quartz and another of smoky (juartz. 
I'-rom Frobisher Bay. 

74. Apatite. 

Rounded grains of green apatite in white orthoclase. 

Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. 

Frobisher Bay. 

75. Garnet. 

A cleavage piecic of a large deep red crystal of siJbandite. 
French Hciul, Field Bay. 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 565 

7G. Graphite. 

Several large pieces of perfectly pure soft graphite; one also still inclosed 
in quartz. In a bundle marked " (a) Azoic Kocks," by Hall, with fragments of 
Silurian Umestones. 

77. BlOTITE. 

A large crystal 75 mm. long, 50 mm. wide, and 40 mm thick, with irregular 
sides. Adhering to one side is a portion of clear orthoclase, variety sunstone. On 
another side another portion of the same feldspar contains many small wine-yel- 
low Zircons. The crystal is also penetrated by plates 5-10 mm. broad, of a leek- 
green mineral, brittle, with bronze hister and eminent cleavage. Under the 
microscope it shows two cleavages at right angles and a third, prismatic, between 
these, making an angle of 120° 45', and contains abundant iuclosures arranged 
l)aralled to the rectangular cleavages. These i^roperties make it quite certain 
that the mineral is diallage. 

Frobisher Bay. 

iron ores. 

78. Magnetite. 

Several pieces of magnetite in quartz ; one part of a large crystal with a 
piece of iron slag and two pieces of limpid quartz. The label reads, "Much 
like to a sea-coal in color. From Little Bay, Ek-ke-lu-zhun, on cape or point 
where I found coal of Frobisher Expedition of 1578, Tues., Sept. 24, '61. Hall." 
The quotation below, from page 432 of Hall's Narrative, exjilains the above : 
"Ek-ke-lu-zhun, Victoria Bay. Embedded in the rocks I found some heavy 
black substances, larger and more numerous than any I had before seen. These 
I concluded might be the ' stone like to sea-coal ' described by Frobisher in the 
account of his voyages." 

79. Magnetite. 

A larger piece from the same locality — part of a large crystal in limpid 
quartz. Label, " Like to sea-coal in color." Ek-ker-lu-zhun. This label is written 
on the 550th page of Little Dorrit. 

80. Magnetite. 

Large piece of pure crystalline magnetite. 
Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. 

81. Magnetite. 

Three pieces like 80. 
French Head, Field Bay. 

82. Magnetite. 

Three large pieces marked (a). 



566 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

83. Magnetite. 

A large mass, weighing several povinds, part of a large imperfect crystal in 
quartz. The ore and quartz gangue like that from Ek-ker-lu-zhun. This and 
the last may be from one of the localities mentioned by Hall in the Narrative as 
— , page 328 : " This p. m. I visited Cooper's Island, and with chisel and hammer 
dug out some of the black ore, such as was discovered by Frobisher's Expedition 
in 1578, with which many of his ships were laden. This ore attracts and repels 
the magnetic needle about like iron. It is very heavy." The importance of iron 
ore in itself and its connection with Frobisher's Expedition made Hall care- 
ful to collect it everywhere. It is manifestly very abundant both in the gneisses 
of the region and in separate beds. 

84. LiMONITE. 

Several fragments of limonite, cementing quartz and mica, and arising 
apparently from the decomposition of granitic rocks, and representing a deposit of 
no great extent. 
84J. Pyrite. 

A number of fragments in quartz. 

Locality, Frobisher Bay. 

85. Pyrite. 

A large mass of very tough bluish-black quartz, full of pyrite. 

86. Pyrite. 

Three well-worn pieces of pyrite, used by the natives for striking tire. 
With these was another i)iece of magnetite, labeled " Obtained from the natives." 
Hall also mentions iron pyrites at Gold Cove, Frobisher Bay (p. 230). 

copper ores. 

87. BOllNITE. 

Several pieces of pure bornite, of flue color, and a number of fragments of 
quartz with bornite disseminated through the mass. 
French Head, Field Bay. 

88. Bornite. 

A curious pseudo-conglomerate or vein-stone breccia of quartz masses, about 
the size of peas, cemented by a paste of bornite so abundant as to separate each 
grain of (piartz widely from every otlier. 

French Head, Field Bay. 

89. Chalcopyrite. 

Several pieces of a granular aggregate of quartz and black hornblende, in 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 5Q1 

which chalcopyrite occurs dissemmated. The rock is tinged green with malachite 
from its decomposition. 

French Head, Field Bay. 

90. CHAiCOPYBITE. 

Several pieces exactly the same as 88. 
Labeled, " Stones from Kuen-gum-mi-ooke." 

91. Chalcopyrite. 

Galena, siderite, pyrite. A weathered piece, containing amljer-colored side- 
rite, with the other minerals mentioned above. 
French Head, Field Bay. 

92. Steatite. 

A greenish-white compact talc, pale slaty-blue externally, with much hair- 
brown phlogoi^ite. 

Labeled, "At the coal found up Little Bay ten miles from Ni-un-ti-lik." 

93. CORUINTDIJIM. 

A mass larger than a hen's egg of matted crystalline plates of a light pis- 
tachio green margarite, externally weathered to pale straw color. This incloses 
crystalline portions of a deep clear cobalt-blue sapphire, making about one-third 
the mass. The sapphire is very brittle, easily cleavable, and shows imperfect 
•crystalline forms where it projects into cavities in the margarite. It is in places 
separated from the margarite by a thin layer of white calcite. The margarite 
melts under the blowpipe to a white botryoidal enamel. 

CALCAEEOUS EOCKS AND ASSOCIATED MINEEALS. 

94. Gbajstular limestone. 

Thin i)ieces of a fine even-grained statuary marble, pure white and without 
impurities. It was manifestly int«rstratifled with a soft green hydi'ous mica 
schist which still remains attached to one surface. With it were pieces of coarse 
granular limestone containing grains of pale-green coccolite. 

French Head,* Field Bay. 

95. Granular lemestone with coccolite. 

A rock consisting of white calcite, pale green to bottle green and olive green; 
coccolite in rounded gTaius, with fused surfaces ; bronze-colored phlogopite, and 
rarely grains of colophonite and spinel. The three constituents are present in 
about equal quantity, have about the same average size (2-6 mm.), and are so 
mixed as to form a massive granular rock which simulates granite perfectly. 

Frobisher Bay. 



5fi8 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

9G, Granular limestone. 

The contents of this parcel were manifestly scraped up from the foot of a 
limestone cliff where it was exposed to the action of the sea, and includes, beside 
the limestone and its contents, fragments of adularia and of i very ferruginous 
quartzite. The limestone is white, coarsely granular, and very crystalline, and 
contains (1) coccolite, disseminated in grains .1 to 2 mm. in diameter, and rounded 
exteriorly as if fused. The color of these grains is a deep bottle-green. They 
are transparent to translucent; (2) quartz, with rounded fused faces ; (3) minute red 
spinal rubies, octahedra, with rounded edges ; (4,) phlogopite in small prisms with 
rounded prism faces, and of pale plum color to bronze and duU yellow on the 
cleavage faces. 

From White Island on the south side of Frobisher Bay, near the head of it. 

97. Coccolite. 

Large mass of fresh dark-green to blackish-green coarse coccolite. 
From parcel labeled, " From various places up Frobisher Bay and near the 
head of it." 

98. Coccolite. 

A finer-grained somewhat weathered green coccohte. 

French Head, Field B.iy. 

The resemblance of the series of rocks here described to the Laurentian of 

Canada and the Adirondacks and to the Montalban of New Hampshire and 

Massachusetts is very marked. The typical Labradorian rocks are absent. The 

dark-red massive quartzites agree well with the Canadian quartzites of Huron- 

ian age. 

ERUPTIVE ROCKS. 

99. QUARTZDIORITE. 

A grayish- black, compact, trap-like rock, seemingly quite fresh, but eflfer- 
vescing with acids. In powder blackish, with shade of green. The rock is almost 
aphanitic with glimmering luster; with a lens the feldspar crystals can bo seen 
as extremely fine lines. lu sections j^lagioclase in interlaced crystals, mostly 
elongated, is seen to make up the mass of the rock, in the interstices between 
which the other constituents appear. The feldspar is opaque — white by reflected, 
pale l)rown by transmitted, light, being filled with a pale yellowish-brown dust, 
wliicb is sometimes spread over the whole surface of the section. More often, 
however, there is upon this as a back ground a system of darker brown lines, 
parallel to the greatest length of the crystal, formed by an accumulation of the 
same niat(!rial along the lines of boundary between the separate laminae of which 
the crystal is composed (i)arallcl to (/> O co), and to this is sui)eradded in many 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 569 

crystals a seconrt system of lines exactly like and at right-angles to the first. 
This second set of lines is, however, usually only partly developed, appearing only 
on part of the crystal or some of the lines running only part way across the same. 
The lines themselves are generally more evenly spaced, more rigidly straight, and 
finer than the other. In rare cases they are coarser and better developed. 
Finally, some crystals show a beaiitifully perfect and delicate lattice-work, all the 
meshes appearing to the eye exact squares. The second set of lines runs parallel 
to P. In agreement with this, the crystals, when examined with polarized 
light, prove to be polysynthetically twined parallel to co P (X) and O P. Some of the 
crystals also show distinct cleavage planes parallel to the jirism faces, and an 
arrangement of the same particles in these planes. Only with a Tolles lens, of the 
best definition and a power of 1,G00, was it possible to resolve these lines into 
their constituents. They prove to be made up of a multitude of pale-red trans- 
parent plates, with rounded outline, which appear as black spots when in the 
slightest degree out of focus, disai^pearing almost instantly, their place being 
taken by others not in the same plane. A few elongated microlites, apparently 
hornblende and much larger, are arranged in the same plane with the smaller 
plates, but there is no passage from the one to the other. The small plates seem 
to be hematite. The blackish-brown hornblende in broad crystals incloses much 
well-crystalUzed magnetite, many hornblende microlites, also cavities with mo- 
tionless bubbles, and is overgrown and often almost entirely changed into grass- 
green scaly viridite, which has also passed into all fissures in and between 
the feldspar crystals. Quartz in small rounded grains is evenly distributed 
through the whole, and filled with fine magnetite crystals, pale-green hornblende, 
and much smaller and longer apatite microlites, which sometimes pass with great 
regularity from all parts of the surface of the gTain toward the center. In one 
piece long fine red needles of goethite occupy fissures. 

A few crystals of olivine and masses that seem to have arisen from its 
decomposition occur ; also minute secondary aggregations mixed with viridite 
occur. 

Magnetite occurs in large aggregations among as well as in the other con- 
stituents. 

The minerals present in the rock in the order of their frequency are oligo- 
clase viridite, hornblende, magnetite, quartz, hematite, ? calcite, apatite. 
Trap-granulite. 

Trap-granulit. Lasaulx. Elemente der Petrographie, p. 348. 

Diallage-grannlit. Dathe. Die Diallagegranulite der Sachsischen granulit-formatioii. Zeit. 
D. g. G. xxix, p. 274, 1877. 

A large block of a massive brownish-black trap-like rock, breaking with 



570 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

broad conclioidal fracture, and when moistened slightly mottled with green and 
brown. It appears quite fresh in the interior, but efiervesces with acids. On the 
outside is a light reddish-gray layer of decomposition 2 mm. thick. On the fresh 
surface it has a glistening luster, and with the lens one detects minute scales of 
rubellan, fine needles of hornblende, and roundish spots of reddish color, which 
I>rove to be garnets. A few small cavities have been filled with a whitish mixture 
of calcite and a zeolite, in which radiating needles of shining black secondary horn- 
blende appear. The rock affords a reddish-gray powder and fuses at 3 to a whit- 
ish enamel. The powder treated with acid and examined under the microscope 
shows only slight changes; a small quantity of ocher and calcite is removed. 
Examined in thin section, the rock is found to contain the following minerals: 
Garnet, which makes up more than half the mass; biotite next in abundance; 
then hornblende and viridite, and more rarely apatite, hematite, calcite, magne- 
tite, and a zeolite. Cyanite occurs in long flat crystals, transparent, brUliaut, 
cut across by broad cleavage fissures filled with viridite. It polarizes with great 
beauty; occurs commonly in mica. The garnets are scattered through the whole 
mass, gathered in small groups or occurring singly, separated from each other by 
mica and hornblende. Many large garnets occur also in the mica. They occur 
mostly in rounded grains up to .45 mm. in diameter. Imperfect four, six, and eight 
sided cross- sections are not rare, and the smaller crystals inclosed in the larger 
and especially in the mica are often perfect rhombic dodecahedrons. The sec- 
tions of the crystals appear moderately magnified a pale reddish-brown to Isa- 
bella-yellow, being more or less clouded with a brown dust, except at the narrow 
border, where they are quite pellucid and colorless or show a faint tinge of violet. 
The transparent portions are stQl isotrope, and the central portions show aggTe- 
gate polarization, but when highly magnified it is seen that the transparent gar- 
net substance predominates in most crystals. In a few cases the decomposition 
l)roceeds from the circumference, and the center is still quite transparent. The 
dust is made up of chlorite i)lates, blood-red hematite scales, and amorphous 
grains. 

Many small perfect dodecahedra inclosed in the larger garnets are of bright 
lemon-yellow color, and show distinctly cleavage after go O. They are of the 
same yellow color throughout, and show no tendency to the accumulation of 
granular matter at the center. Many — apparently hornblende — microlitcs, ar- 
ranged in an irregular net-work, are found in them, sometimes passing out into 
the surrounding mica. 

Next in abundance is rubellan, in broad, fresh, transparent plates, bright 
hyacinth red to deep blood red, separating the groups of garnets from one 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 571 

auother, and inclosing large crystals of all the other constituents, especially 
garnet and hornblende. Often several garnets or large crystals of hornblende 
lie wholly or partly inclosed in a single mica crystal, or, in the case of the horn- 
blende, run entirely across and divide the crystal into several parts. 

Besides these larger inclosures, there occur in great numbers long flat micro- 
lites, irregularly arranged, and which seem to be themselves of micaceous nature, 
long fine apatite needles, and rarely grains of magnetite or blood-red scales of 
hematite. The blood-red color occurs where the cleavage lines are lacking, and 
the P face is parallel to the section plane, while crystals cut parallel to the 
principal axis, and showing strongly the cleavage lines, are light brownish yel- 
low. In the latter case the mineral is strongly dichroic. The mineral is remark- 
ably fresh and clear in appearance, but is bordered by blackish-green fibrous 
viridite. 

The hornblende occurs in groups of elongated crystals, often fibrous and 
brush-like at their ends. It is mostly grass green, sometimes grass green and 
smoke brown at one end and colorless at the other. It accompanies the rubellan, 
but is less abundant. 

A blackish to grayish-green fibrous viridite surrounds many of the garnets, 
and is accumulated abundantly in the neighborhood of the rubellan and horn- 
blende, from which one would not easily distinguish it if it were not for its slight 
absorption. 

Several small portions of quartz and very rarely a grain of magnetite com- 
plete the list of the minerals observed. 

102. Trap-granulite. 

Not to be distinguished microscopically from the preceding rock, except in 
containing finely- disseminated jiyrite. 

Thin sections show the garnets to be more decomposed, so that there is no 
clear rim left ; also the smaller garnets inclosed in the larger are much decom- 
posed. In the mica, which is exactly like that in the foregoing, very many small, 
perfectly clear, hexagonal cross-sections of apatite occur. Single plates of diallage 
occur. The section contains aggregations of hornblende, grass green or smoke 
brown at one end and colorless at the other, projecting into calcite, which fills 
free spaces in the mica, and is ti^ansparent, showing the cleavage sharply. With 
the hornblende is associated spinel, in separate octahedra, sharply built out and 
in crystalline groups of a deep cobalt to plum-blue color. 

103. Trap-granulite. 

This is a coarser grained variety, but differs in no other respect microscopic- 
ally from No. 101. The garnets, which are the principal ingredient, are distinctly 



572 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

divisible into two groups, large and small, respectively, about ^ and 2 times as 
large as in No, 101. Decomposition has not proceeded so far, the crystals being 
quite translucent, of a faint ocher-yellow color, and in large part isotrope. One 
of the larger and many of the smaller show perfect eight- sided cross sections. 
Many of the larger crystals are grown together in groups of two and three, a little 
more than half of each being present. The larger crystals are affected in various 
ways by decomposition ; some have the center clouded with ocher-yellow, bounded 
by a clear ring, and this by a ring of blood-red rubellan in minute closely aggre- 
gated crystals, which project into the clear ring. Others having the exterior 
ring of rubellan are in the interior clouded more or less with a green material. 
In others this green material is gathered at the center, having a clear yellow 
area between it and the outer ring of rubellan. In others a pale grass green 
spreads over the whole, and finally the whole crystal is changed into a bright 
grass-green viridite, arranged in wavy masses, which recall the fluidal structure 
of obsidians. Cyanite occurs in smaller crystals than in No. 101, with rectangular 
cross sections. It polarizes brilhantly. Magnetite is abundant. The contrast 
of the bright green of the viridite, the deep blood red of the rubellan upon the 
Ijale amber background of garnet, makes this a very beautiful object under the 
microscope. 
104. Trap-granuulte. 

This rock is like No. 101 in appearance, and came probably liom another 
portion of the same mass. It is, however, much more weathered and pitted super- 
ficially by the eating out of calcite, which had filled cavities in the rock. Rounded 
grains of quartz project from the surface. Many of the cavities are not wholly 
emptied, there remaining a soft pulverulent mass, which eflervesces freely with 
acid and is wholly dissolved. Black needles of hornblende, like the calcite of 
secondary origni project into the latter. With tlie lens one sees, especially 
when the rock is moistened, rubellan, hornblende and light gray spots, Avhich 
resemble the flesh-colored ones seen in No. 101, and which are, as in that case, 
garnet. 

The whole rock effervesces abundantly Avith acid. Under the microscope 
the section is iinich clearer, the rubellan more scattered and in larger crystals, 
the rest more uniform and homogeneous in appearance than in No. 101. The 
ground color is pale ocher-yellow, clouded with darker shades of the same color. 
The ground shows distinct traces of tesseral forms, and remains dark under 
crossed Nicols. In the mica small transparent garnets occur. The rubellan 
occurs in large clear pieces deep blood-red and dark orange, inclosing, (besides 
garnets,) hornblende, and needles of apatite; and often bordered by magnetite. 



Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 573 

The hornblende is for the most part deep green. Some crystals are reddish at 
one end, colorless in the middle, and green at the other. They show cross sections 
of 124°. Diallage in pale yellow crystals, with characteristic iuclosures, plagioclase 
in one or two large crystals and orthoclase grown fibrous from decomposition were 
also present. 

105. Trap-granulite. 

This is a fresh fine-grained piece of the same rock, which shows a distinct 
separation into plates half an inch thick by a rude cleavage, which is not accom- 
panied by any parallelism in the arrangement of the constituents. Under the 
microscope it shows all the minerals mentioned under the last rock described, and 
the resemblance is so close as to render a special description superfluous. 

106. Trap-graniilite. 

This piece is very much weathered, of a light chocolate color, mottled with 
large spots of a whitish substance, filled with blackish and greenish grains. The 
colorless spaces prove in their section to be amygdaloidal cavities, filled with an 
outer layer of milk-white zeolite and an inner layer of quartz ; both are filled with 
scales of viridite. The rest of the mass is much decomposed, but seems to have 
been originally the same as those above described. 

107. Trap-granulite. 

A small much weathered piece- 
Labeled, " Found on the route between Eescue Harbor and Or-pung-ne-wing, 
an island in Frobisher Bay. C. F. Hall." 

SEDIMENTAET EOCKS. 

108. Sandstone. 

A slab 12 by 15 inches, of a medium-grained rusty -brown flagstone, the sur- 
face covered with ripple-marks 25 mm. apart. The crests of the ripple-marks are 
weathered ocher yellow. 

Labeled, " Sandstone, with ripi>le-marks. Lupton Chaimel. Silurian." 

The following extracts from Hall's Narrative refer to this rock : " On arriv- 
ing at the next place of encampment, the last before reaching the harbor, where 
I had left the ship, the Innuits informed me that it was called Shar-toe-wik-toe, 
from a natural breakwater of thin or plate stone, the native word meaning "thin, 
flat stone." It is on a tongue of land nearly surrounded by water, on the west side 
of Lupton Channel." (p. 439.) 

Hall also mentions that as he stopped in Lupton Channel on his way home, 
an old Innuit woman brought on board as a present a fish upon a slab of red 
sandstone. 



574 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 

The rock seems to be the same with those of Cape Alexander, Wolston- 
holme Sound, and Byam Martin's Island, and is probably from the base of the 
Carboniferous. 

109. LmESTONB. 

A gray crinoidal limestone, made up of comminuted fragments of corals and 
crinoids, all indistinguishable. Lower Silurian? near head of Frobisher Bay. 
The ostracoids mentioned beyond occur in a similar drab limestone. 

110. LniESTONE. 

A very compact red-gray limestone, deeply corroded by sea-water. Lower 
Silurian. Locality, O in-seen-o-ping ; partly illegible. 

111. Limestone. 

A large flat piece of a compact even-bedded dark reddish-gray limestone, 
breaking with large conchoidal fracture, and containing, besides minute fragments 
of coal, part of the last whorl of a large longitudinally striated univalve. Lower 
Silurian. 

Locality, Frobisher Bay. 

112. LlIVrESTONE. 

A deep black, massive, flinty, bituminous limestone, effervescing abundantly 
with acid, with perfect conchoidal fracture, weathering Avhite externally to a dis- 
tance of .5-2 mm. Utica slate. Localities, Frobisher Bay, Kun-gum-mi-ooke. 

113. LrarESTONE. 

A dark brown, thin-bedded flinty limestone, with spots of coaly matter from 
graplotites, Utica slate. 

Localities, Frobisher Bay. French Head in Field Bay. Fragments of the 
limestones Nos. 112 and 113 were also present in abundance from many other 
points in Field and Frobisher Bay without special labels, and contain all the Utica 
slate trilobites and graptolites found in the collection. 

114. Dolomite. 

A large mass of a ragged cavernous dolomite, very liarsh to the feel, dull 
gray in the interior, but in large part rusty. 
Frobisher Bay. 

115. Dolomite. 

A large mass of compact buff dolomite, clouded with bands of smoke gray, 
containing crinoid stems, Halysites catenulata, Pentamerus conchidium, Dal. 
Upper Silurian. 

Locality, Rescue Harbor. 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 57.5 

116. Dolomite. 

A compact buff magnesian limestone, effervescing very slowly with acid. 
Upper Silurian. % Kud-lu-nann. 

117. Dolomite. 

A yellowish white, very compact and tough rock, without fossils. 
Frobisher Bay. 

118. Dolomite. 

A pale cream-colored magnesian limestone, compact, fine-grained, breaking 
with very flat, broad conchoidal fracture, extremely brittle and ringing sharply 
under the hammer, only slightly whitened by weathering. Several large pieces 
were present, all uniformly and abundantly filled with the minute tubular cavities 
mentioned on page 579. 

Locality, "Hall's Island of Frobisher." 

119. Dolomite. 

Many fragments of gray and buff limestones, all probably magnesian. 
French Head, Field Bay. 

DESCEIPTION OF FOSSILS. 

The fossils described below belong for the most part to two horizons. That 
of the Utica slate in flinty bituminous limestones, and that of the Trenton, rich 
in entomostraca, in gray argillaceous limestone. 
BuTHOTREPHis, conf. gracilis, Hall. Fig. 1, Natural size. ,.*irs)S^aaiii^_ 

Stem stout, subcylindrical surface rough, succulent, ? 
branching. Branches alternate acuminate. 

A unique specimen upon the surface of a piece of com- 
pact gray limestone like that containing entomostraca. The 
stems stand out from the surface of the rock, and are of 
lighter color and rougher than tlie rest of the surface of the rock. At one place 
alternating rounded stems, having a fruit-like aspect, are present, and many short 
separated branches are scattered over the surface. 
Protozoa. 

A small fragment of weathered silicious limestone, black at center, gray 
externally, shows many curious forms, which seem to be sponge spicvdesand tests 
of sihcious protozoa. What appears to be a hexactinellid spicule is repeated 
several times, four hollow tapering tubes, radiating at right angles from a com- 
mon center, with which the cavities of the tubes are continuous, and in which one 
looks down into the cavity of a fifth tube, the sixth having been removed in 
cutting the section. Also many fragments, pierced with close-set hexagonal open- 




576 Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 

ings, like many of the fenestrated polycystina. Other forms imitate the flat circu- 
lar diatoms, and one cross section recalls a sectioD through a single sphere of 
Piilvinulina. These forms require to be magnified 30 to 50 diameters. In small 
pieces of gray argillaceous limestone without special label and not associated 
with other fossils. 
Eeceptaculites (new species). 

" The receptaculites is unlike the several species of the Galena limestone of 
the West or the R. occidentalis of Canada. Mr. Salter speaks of one found in the 
northern part of the American continent: This may be that species or it may 
be a new one ; which it was we have no means of determining." (E. P. Stevens, 
Hall's Nar. Ap. 10, p. 594.) We have made inquiry, but can find no trace of this 
or the other fossils reported upon in the article quoted. 

DiPLOGRAPTUS DENTATUS, BrOUgU. sp. 

1838. Fucoides dentatus. Brongn. Hist. Veg. Fos. pi. 6, fig. 9, 12. 
1865. Diplograptiis pristiniformis. Hall, Grap. Quebec Gr. p. 110. 

1875. Diplograpius dentatus. Hop. & Lap. Grap. of St. Davids, Q. J. G. S., vol. 31, p. 656, pi. 
xxxir, fig. 5 rt-5 A-. 

Occurs ill pieces 25-35 mm. in length, tapering slowly to a blunt point, 
width 2.5 to 3 mm. Hydrothecse 22-34 to the inch, average 30. The many forms 
which I have referred with some doubt to the D. dentattts in the very wide signifi- 
cation given to the species by Hopkinson and Lapworth in the memoir cited 
above, occur i^enetrating the black flinty limestone in various directions, or lying 
upon the cleavage surfaces of the thin-bedded varieties of the same black rock. 
In the former case they cannot be exposed for study; in the latter, beautiful casts 
of the uncompressed polypary are found. Other specimens are variously com- 
pressed, and the series of figures given by Hopkiuson «& Lapworth would serve 
perfectly to represent the various forms. In two cases the proximal end is pre- 
served as in 5 Jc {loc. cit.). Other forms have a more scalariform aspect than any 
there figured. They are all a little moi-e slender than the normal I), dentatus 
from New York. The species occurs in company with Triarthrus BecJdi, Calymene 
senaria, Endoceras proteiforme, &c. 

L K'alities : In dark-browii silicious limestone weathering dove colored 
from Fren<;h Head, Field Bay ; and iu black fissile silicious limestone at the 
ui)per end of Frobisher Bay and along the north shore of the same. 
Climacogbaptus quadrimucronatus, Hall. 

1865. Climacof/rajUus quadrimucron(ilH!<, Hall. Grap. Quebec Group, p. 144, pi. xiii, figs. I-IO. 

Specimens flattened iu various ways represent well many of the drawings 
cited above, and especially a cast in the limestone of an uncompressed specimen is 
almost a facsimile of the restoration of the species there figured {he. cit), excei)t that 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. bll 

only in a few cases and then indistinctly are the characteristic spines indicated. 
As the measurements agree exactly with those of the C. quadrimucronatus, I think 
the specimens may without doubt be referred to that species. Found associated 
with other Utica slate fossils at French Head, Field Bay, and in Countess of 
Warwick's Sound. 
Glimacogeapttjs, sp. 

Many specimens of a form belonging certainly to this genus occur, but none 
are well preserved enough to allow of a determination of the species. Hydrothecae 
30-31 per inch. Greatest width 2.5 mm., tapering slowly from greatest width. 
They occur in the same association as the preceding species, and are closely allied 
to C. bicornis, Hall, but are much smaller. 

SiCULA OF GRAPTOLITES. 

A large piece of chocolate-brown limestone; contains in immense numbers 
the embryonic tubes of a species of graptolite, probably of the B. dentatus, above 
described. These are minute very elongate hollow cones, often flattened; the 
mouth truncated obliquely, and prolonged in a slender rigid thread about the 
length of the calicle itself, which latter is 1.5 to 2 mm. long. 
Ctathophtllum ? PiCKTHORNn, Salter, sp. 

Strephodes Pickthornii, Salter. Sutherland's Journal, vol. ii, Ap. p. ccxxx, plate vi, fig. 5. 
1878. Cyatliophyllum f Pickthornii, Woodward. Geo. Mag. n. s. Dec. II, vol. v, p. 388, pi. x, fig. 
5,6. 

A single cup, of the size and shape of the smaller ones figured by Woodward. 
The lamellae are connected at the bottom by cross plates. In buff limestone. 
Halysites catenulata, L. 

A single specimen in buff limestone with Pentamerus. 

From Eescue Harbor ; quoted also from SiUiman's Fossil Mount of Hall, 
lat. 63° 44" N., long. 68° 56" W., by E. P. Stevens.— Hall's Nak., p. 594. 
Stictopoea kamosa. Hall. ? 

Many weathered specimens occur in the gray crinoidal limestone along the 
north shore of Frobisher Bay. It may be the same as the Alveolites ? arctica. 
Wood. Geo. Mag. 1878, p. 389. 
Heleolites (new species). 
Heliopora (new species). 

"The specimens of corals were very perfect and beautiful, and unlike any 
figured by Professor Hall in the Palaeontology of New York." (E. P. Steveus, 
Hall's Nar., Appendix X.) 

Crinoid stems and fragments are found abundantly, but in all cases round, 
small, and not determinable. 
S. Ex. 27 37 



578 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 

LlNGULA CURTA, Coil. 

Many specimens, retaining tlie black, shining, finely- striated shell, and agree- 
ing exactly with Utica and Fort Plain, N. Y., specimens, occur in the black lime- 
stone associated in different pieces of the rock with all the other Utica slate fossils 
met with. 
Rynchonella, sp. 

Several minute specimens occur, characterized by sharp ribs, very high keel, 
and deep sinus ; in gray limestone with Entomostraca. 
Chonetes conf. striatella, Dal. 

A minute quite convex shell covered with fine ribs not visible except with 
the lens. The ribs anastomose toward the border, and are sejiarated in groups 
of from 8 to 10 by grooves twice the width of those between the separate striai ; 
height 4-6 mm. In gray limestone with Entomostraca. 
Pentamerus conchidium, Dal. 

The large mass of magnesian limestone No. 109, from Rescue Harbor, con- 
tains a single well-preserved specimen of this species and many cross sections, 
showing the characteristic septum. 
Tellinomya levata, Hall. 

1847. Nucula levata, Hall. Pal. N. Y., vol. i, p. 150, pi. 34, fig. 1. 
1875. Tellinomya levata, HaU. Pal. Ohio, vol. ii, p. 82, pi. 1, fig. 23. 

This species is represented by a single sharply defined cast of the beak and 

central portions of the hinge plate. Enough is preserved to show that the shell 

was veutricose, with large incurved beaks and posterior curvature 

of the hinge plate. It agrees in all points with the figure of the 

3 interior of the shell in Pal. Ohio above cited. It occurs in a 

Fig. 3 magnified small fragment of buff limestone from the north side of Frobishcr 

three times. Bay, associated in the same piece with many indistinguishable 

fragments of bivalves, crinoid stems,and a minute Murchisonia gracilis, f 

The figure is drawn from a cast in rubber of the impression. 

CONULARIA TREKTONENSIS, Hall. 

A cast of one side of the shell, retaining in part the substance of the same 
of deep chestnut brown, shows all the characteristics of this si)ecies. In grjiy 
limestone with Entomostraca. 
Gasteropoda. 

Besides the Maclurea arctica quoted by Stevens in the Appendix to Hall's 
Narrative, page 594, the collection examined by me contains single portions of 
several species too fragmentary for determination — a small Murchisonia gracilis, 
Hall ; a Maclurea, and a small turbinoid slicll which may be Cyclonema hilix. 




Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 579 

Endoceras peoteiforme, Hall. 

1843. Endoco-as proteiforme, Hall. Pal. N. Y., vol. i, p. 208, pi. xlv-1. 
1843. ? p. 311, pi. Ixxxv, fig. 1. 

Ten or more specimens of this form are present, which are all flattened, and 
resemble closely the flattened forms from Fort Plain, N. Y., from the Utica slate, 
referred by HaU with doubt to this species. Five of the specimens are flattened, 
showing neitlier septa nor distinct surface markings, but tapering at exactly the 
same angle as the Fort Plain specimens. Four retain very distinctly the exterior 
marking, and agree so exactly with the fig. 3, pi. lix, loc. cit., of the suiface mark- 
ing of E. proteiformCj var. Uneolatum, that it might have been the original from 
which the drawing was made. The surface is covered with transverse striae 3 to 
the mm. Two other specimens show the points of small shells, flattened, septa 
distant not quite ^ of the diameter. The specimens were found one in a gray 
limestone associated with crinoid stems, the others in the black shaly limestone 
with Triarthrus Beckii, Calymene senaria, Lingula curta, Diplograiitus dentatus, 
&c. 
Orthoceras laqueatum. Hall. ? 

Orthoceras laqueatum, Hall. Pal. N. Y., i, p. 206, pl. Ivi, fig. 2 a-c. 

A single impression agrees in the character of the striation with this 
species. In black shaly limestone. 
Tentaculites. ? 

Length of largest piece, 1.1 mm. ; width, .1-.2 mm. Large masses of the 
buff limestone, No. 112, are filled with minute tubular 
tapering cavities, showing traces of delicate transverse 
striation, now covered with scattered elevations, due to 
subsequent crystallization apparently of hematite. These 

Fig. 4 magnified twenty- 
may be cast of a minute shell or of the siculte of grap- seven times. 

tolites fi'om which the chitine has been wholly removed. They are so numerous, 

however, and the limestone is so compact and free from carbonaceous matter, that 

it does not seem possible that they can have been chitinous. Their organic origin 

is not entirely certain. 

Leperditia alta, Con. sp. 

1856. Leperditia alta, Jones. Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. 2d ser. xvii, p. 89, pl. vii, tig. 6, 7. 
Length, left valve, 4mm.; breadth, 2f mm. Carapace valve strongly con- 
vex, minutely papillose under strong lens, pale chestnut brown, slightly oblong. 
Hinge-line straight, angles at end of hinge-line not strongly marked, anterior 
end slightly narrower than posterior, anterior tubercle indistinct, central tubercle 
not seen. 






580 Professor Emerson on HaWs Geological Collections. 

A small fragment of gray argillaceous limestone was filled with specimens 

of this species, mostly as single valves and without admixture of other forms. 

The cleavage face of the rock showed many valves much 

weathered, the color being lost and the surface rough. They 

agree with the L. alta of the Tentaculite limestone. A few 

s 5 a valves slightly larger occur in a second fragment of a lime- 

fit". 5 6 cross-section from stone like the first, but with fossils of many species, espe- 

polislied section. cially Entomostraca, it having furnished all the species 

of that class described below, besides three species of Brachiopoda. 

North shore Frobisher Bay. 

Leperditia canadensis, Jones. 

1858. Leperditia canadensis, Jones. An. and Mag. Nat. Hist. 3d ser. 1, p. 244, pi. ix, f. 11-15. 

Carapace valve minute, mottled brown, uniformly convex, convexity greatest 
in the anterior third, eye tubercle well marked, nuchal de- 
pression sloping equally to dorsal and ventral border. 
Dorsal margin straight, shorter than greatest length, 
^. T . .. , . £ ventral margin obliquelv convex, extremities unequal, 

Fig. 6 a, right valve, X 4; fig. » i .. j i : 

6 6, surface, X 80. Length, anterior angular, posterior broadly rounded. Surface of 
If mm. ; breadth, If mm. yalve covered with fine irregularly placed pustules in the 
specimen figured, in another coarsely and irregularly pitted. The small size and 
the pustulose surface do not agree with the published descriptions of L. cana- 
densis, but the fine hair like pustules, visible only with high magnifying power, 
would generally be wanting, the other valves in the same piece of stone showing 
no trace thereof. 

The specimen figured in a small piece of buff limestone from the north side 
of Frobisher Bay ; other valves in the gray limestone already mentioned. 

Primitia muta, Jones. 

1858. Cytheropsis concimia, Jones. ? An. and Mag. of Nat. Hist. 3d ser„ vol. i, p. 252, pi. 9, f. B. 
1865. Primitia muta, Jones. Ibid. vol. xvi, p. 425. 

Carapace- valve minute, smooth and shining ; deep chestnut brown ; in weath- 
ered specimens dead white; ovate to oblong-ovate ; generally leper- 
^ ditia-shaped in outline, hinge-line straight, ends very unequal, ven- 

Fig. 7 loft valve ^^^^^ edge curved. Occurs in great abundance in company with the 
magnified four other entomostraca described, and alone in several small pieces of 
""^i*" buff" limestone. One piece labeled north shore Frobisher Bay, the 

others without special labels. Forms agreeing with the P. concinua, Jones, from 
the Canadian Trenton, as also with the elongate P. tenera, Linnarsson (Vester- 




8-b 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 581 

gothlands Cambriska ocli Siliiriska Aflagringar, p. 85, fig. 70), from the Trinu- 
clid Skifier of Sweden accompany the typical forms. 
Primitia Frobisheri, u. s. 

Carapace-valve smooth, light-brown, nearly oval, strongly and regularly 
convex, sloping away from the central portion to meet the 
road reflected border at right angles. This border is broad- 
est on tlie ventral side ; is thin and must have been ap- 
l^lied to the corresponding margin of the left valve like 

a flange. On this margin are' placed 9-10 distinct ex- Fig. 8 n/cast of right 
tremely thin elevated ribs, which run up onto the valve "«'aive, x 4 ; fig. 8 6, 

, .,. ■, .,,, „,, , ,, , more enlarged to show 

towards a central point m the middle of the dorsal border; j.^^^^ Length U mm. • 
of these ribs only six are preserved. From the ventral breadth, | mm. 
furrow they may be traced up the valve so far as the shell is present, retaining 
their radial direction, and not anastomosing as is the case in more recent genera. 
Just in advance of the middle line of tbe valve a furrow commences, shallow at the 
dorsal border, grows narrower and much deeper, and ends abruptly at the middle 
of the valve, being represented in the interior by a strong elevation which rises 
nearly to the center of the carapace. This furrow borders at its deepest portion 
a proportionally large hemispherical elevated tubercle, which passes into the gen- 
eral convexity of the valve without the intervention of any depression except ujion 
the posterior side and for a short distance round onto the under side, where it is 
bounded by a shallow furrow prolonged from the central sulcus. The description is 
drawn up from a cast of the interior of a right valve having the shell remaining upon 
the border and half-way up the side and from the interiors of several valves in 
good preservation. It is allied to the ByricMa strangulata, Jones, An. Nat. Hist. 
1855, 2d series, xvi, p. 172, = Primitia nana, Jones and HaU, loc. cit., 3d series, 
xvi, 1865, p. 420, from English Lower Silurian ; also to P. strangulata, Jones, in 
Linnarsson Vestergoth. Camb, o, Sil. Af., p. 85. Differs in the broad-ribbed mar- 
gin, large size, lower position of tubercle and greater convexity. A form which 
I have not found described occurs in the Tentaculite limestone of Schoharie with 
L. alta, which agrees closely with the above-described species. The state of 
preservation made it not possible to determine if the marginal ribs were present. 

Found in the gray limestone with other Entomostraca. 
Byrichia symmetrica, n, s. 

Carapace-valve flattened, elongate. Dorsal and ventral margins parallel. 
Extremities rounded about equally, meeting the dorsal border with slight and 
equal angles. Dorsal marging straight, not quite equaling the longest diameter 
of the valve. Valve ornamented by two irregularly-rounded tubercles, the ante- 




582 Professor Emerson on Hall's Geological Collections. 

rior prominent, projecting slightly over the hinge-Line and running downwards and 

backwards ; the posterior rising abruptly from the broad sulcus and sloping, with 

flat surface to the point of junction of the dorsal and posterior border. The 

broad sulcus is hollowed between these two tubercules, passes around them 

anteriorly and posteriorly, and is bounded on the outside by 

a ridge which starts at the front side of the anterior tubercle 

and arches round till it coincides in direction with the ventral 

margin, which it then follows to the posterior portion of the 

Fig. 9 a, right v.alve, valve, where it curves round sharply to meet the posterior side 

fio- 9 6 1 ' • ' of the posterior tubercle. This ridge is highest in the middle. 

Length, 2|m m. ; and there sharply elevated and bent slightly toward the dorsal 

breadth, li mm. margin, while at both ends it is flatter and less distinctly 

marked off from the rest of the valve. It is separated from the ventral rim by a 

deep, regularly concave groove, which becomes broader and ill-defined towards 

the ends of the valve. The whole valve remotely resembles the cast of a bivalve 

shell with abnormally deep and large pallial and muscular impressions. 

The description is made from two sharplj' marked casts, the shell being 
present only in the ventral furrow, where it is thick, smooth, and light brown. 

Found in the gray limestone with other Entomostraca. 
Triarthrus Beckii, Green. 

The separated heads of this species are very abundant in the black lime- 
stones, and the separated cheeks and tails are also present in great numbers. 
They are all small, the heads being 4-7 mm. in lengtli. The occurrence of this 
common Utica slate species so far north is interesting, and, taken with its appear- 
ance in the Trinuclid Skiffer of Sweden (Linnarsson, loc. cit, p. 70, fig, 27), where 
it is also of the same small size as here, gives it a wide distribution. 
Calymene senaria, Conrad. 

Several small, flattened, well-preserved tails, and one cheek, which belonged 
to individuals not more than 12-15 mm. long, occur iu the black limestone with 
the other Utica slate fossils enumerated. 
Phacops, sp. 

The pustulose elevated glabella of a small individual lias the shape common 
to species of this genus. 

In black limestone. 
Asaphus, sp. 

A stout spine, triangular in cross section, and marked on the under side 
exactly as in Asai)hus gigas. 

In gray limestone with Entomostraca. 



Professor Emerson on HalVs Geological Collections. 583 

Trilobites sp. 

I liave figured a small pygidium, which is broad and flattened, apparently 
acutely terminated behind, with thiclaMied riiu. and broad, very shghtly elevated 
ribs. 

In black limestone. 




Fig. lU, magnified seven times. 

Cyphaspis ? Fbobisheri, n. s. 

The only parts certainly belonging to this species are the impressions of 
two cheeks upon different cleavage faces of a piece of the black limestone 
with Triarthrus BecMi, unless a pygidium upon the same piece, 
which agrees well with that of Cyphaspis Burmeisteri, Bar., in 
shape, may belong to the same individual. The cheek is thin, 
flattened, smooth, very remarkable for its angTilar outline 
and the very abnormal curvature of the spine. The edge is Fig. ii, magnified 

, , , ■■ ^ X X xl.4. Greatest 

separated from the rest of the cheek by a deep groove, flat at lengthof cheek, 
the bottom, broad in front, and narrowing behind. The border is 13 mm. 
formed by the curving upward of the crust and not by its thickening, and the 
spine is a prolongation of this border, having for a time the same dimensions and 
ending abruptly. The suture starts from a point on one side of the central line 
and runs across the border, directed towards the central point of the glabella, 
then continues in a sigmoid curve to the eye, and running around that passes in 
a curve outwardly convex to meet the posterior of the head at a point just inside 
the base of the spine. The eye shows marks of six facets placed in one curved 
line. 

In black limestone — Utica slate. 



APPENDIX IV. 



HALL'S CONVERSATIONS WITH THE INNUITS :-1864, 1868, AND 1869. 
PAPERS A, B, AND C. 



^Fr>E]SrDIX IV 



HALL'S CONVERSATIONS WITH THE INNUITS. 



Prefatory Note to the Extracts prom Hall's Conversations with 
THE Innuits in THE Years 1864, 1808, AND 1869 — Paper A, Conver- 
sations held during the early part of Hall's Arctic resi- 
dence, December, 1864 — Paper B, Conversations held on the 
journey to and return prom the Straits op Fury and Hecla, 
April, 1868— Paper 0, Conversations held with a native of King 
William's Land and with others after Hall's visit to that re- 
gion, 1869. 

The extracts which follow show Hall's carefulness to come at the truth in 
regard to what he was seeking to learn from the Eskimos. His questions and 
cross-questions of individuals— taking them separately and, at times, when as- 
sembled in an igloo — evince care and skill. He availed himself of the watchful- 
ness of his faithful interpreter, Hannah. 

The publication in the columns of the New York Journal of Commerce of 
part of the extracts from his journals, to be found in Paper A, created at the 
time some excitement. Papers B and C are specimens of the talks which are 
found recorded with care in Books A and B, which have been returned to the 
Observatory by the courtesy of Lady Franklin's niece, Miss Sophia Cracroft, of 
London. These two books bear the indorsement of Captain Hall : — 

" This tenth day of January, 1871, sent by Express to England to be deliv- 
ered to Lady Franklin in Trust. Lady P., Miss Cracroft, and Admiral Sir Leo- 
pold McClintock may read them ; no copy or copies to be made." 

587 



588 Conversations with Innuits. wecember, i864. 



PAPEE A. 

EXTRACTS FROM HALL'S CONVERSATIONS HELD WITH THE INNUITS OF REPULSE 
BAY IN THE MONTH OF DECEMBER, 1864. 

December 6th, 1864. — This night I have had a deeply interesting interview 
with several of the natives. On the return of the walrus hunters, tliey almost 
uniformly call at our igloo during the evening to see and talk with me ; this 
evening Ar-mou first comes in. I asked him when he was at Igloo-lik a few 
years ago and what names of Kob-lu-uas he heard of, that he remembered ? 
The answer was Parry, Lyon and Crozier — the first two were Esh-e-mut-tas (chiefs 
or captains), but the latter one was not. 

Ar-too-a, the An-nat-ko, next came in. He has been to Pelly Bay (Ok-ke- 
be-gu-loo-a, as the Innuits call it) which is near Neitcli-il-le (Boothia Peninsula). 
While at my igloo Ai-too-a once told me that he had heard of Crozier when at 
Pelly Bay, that he (C) was one of the Koblunas belonging to the two ships that 
were in the ice near Neitch-il-le for two years before the white men left them. 

I proceeded to ask Ar-too-a the questions of the names of the white men 
he had heard of from Innuits, who had been to Igloo-lik. He said. Parry, Cro- 
zier and Lyon ; — he had heard of others, but could not now remember them. I 
asked him if he had heard a great deal about Crozier, and he replied, with great 
warmth, that he had ; and then went on talking with Ar-mou and Ebierbing, tell- 
ing them how much he knew. 

Oong-oo-too next came in, followed by Ou-e-la and Shoo-she-ark-nuk. The 
latter two, I knew, would be of great service in communicating important facts, 
if such were in their possession. The former is a smart, strong, muscular young 
man, a great musk-ox hunter, but a very small talker. I can never get much 
out of him in the way of tongue work. 

The parties now named were all present. Ar-too-a had become deeeply inter- 
ested in giving all the facts he knew about Crozier. He drew his brothers Oue-la, 
Shoo-she-ark-nuk, and my man Ebier-bing into a general conversation with him 
on the subject. Too-koo-li-too sat at her usual place on the took -too bed before 
tlie fire-lamp, knitting a sack of zephyr worsted to keep my nasal organ from 
freezing when I go out on sledge trips this winter. At the same time she was 
attentively listening to all that was said, that she might, as interpreter, commu- 
nicate the sooner to me. I was seated on my stool, deeply absorbed in all that I 
could understand, which I must confess was very little. 



December, 1S64.] Conversatiofis ivUli InnuUs. 589 

While the parties named were engaged listening to what Shoo-she-ark-nuk 
was saying, I commenced to tell Too-koo-li-too that I wished her to say that the 
Crozier (of whom they knew something about as having been at Igloo-lik with 
Parry twenty -two years after he was at Igloo-lik) left the Koblunar country as 
an Esh-e-mut-ta of one of the two ships that were lost at Neitch-il-le. When I 
had this in mind, I had somehow out of mind the fact that Ar-too-a had previously 
told me that Crozier, the same one who was at Igloo-lik, was in one of the lost ships 
at NeitchiUe. My usual precaution about keeping what I knew about Parry's 
ships and Franklin's to myself, without letting one word out on my part, was not 
now adhered to. 

1 had not got two words out before Too-koo-li-too signaled to me by a motion 
of her hand to keep silent. She then said, " They are saying something that I 
will like much to hear." Of course I waited with great solicitude. Too-koo-li-too's 
face soon glowed with delight as she said ; " That same man, Crozier, who was 
at Igloo-Uk when Parry and Lyon were there, was Esh-e-mut-ta (meaning captain 
in this case, the literal chief) of the two ships lost in the ice at Neitchille. 
Crozier was the onlj^ man that would not eat any of the meat of the Koblunas 
as the others all did. Crozier and the three men with him were very hungry, but 
Crozier, though nearly starved and very thin, would not eat a bit of the Koblu- 
nas, — he waited till an Innuit who was with him and the three men caught a seal, 
and then Crozier only ate one mouthful, — one little bit first time. Next time, 
Crozier ate of the seal he took a little larger piece, though that was a little bit 
too. One man of the whole number four died because he was sick. The others 
all Uved and grew fat, and finally Crozier got one Innuit with his kiak to accom- 
pany him and the two men in trying to get to the Koblunar country by traveling 
to the southward. The Innuits here think these two men and Crozier are alive 
yet; think they may have returned to Neitchille, if they found they could not get 
home to the Koblunar country, and lived again with the Innuits. 

The two winters the two ships were at Neitch-ille were very cold. The 
Innuits never knew such very cold weather — there was no summer between the 
two winters — could catch no seals or kill any rein-deer at most of the uisual places 
where they were most accustomed to find them. 

Eelative to the interview described, I was thankful— delighted, indeed, that 
Too-koo-li-too had checked me when I was about to request her to tell the Innuits 
present what I had in mind. A most important fact came out in consequence, 
showing that the Innuits far and near are conversant with all events of this 
nature that take place in their country. The Pelly Bay Innuits, from what had 



590 Conversations wttli Innuits. [wcccmbcr, i8e4, 

been told them by Innuits who had seen Crozier, knew that he (C.) was not an 
Esh-e-mut-ta (captain) when wdth the two ships that visited Ig-loo-lik and the other 
places. But they knew that ho (0 ) was Esh-e-mut-ta when at Neitch-ille. The 
fact that Crozier was not an Esh-e-mut-ta when at Ig-loo-lik was well known to 
Ou-e-la, Shoo-she-aik-nuk, and Ar-too-a when they were boys. Erk-tu-a knows this 
well, and so it is known all the way from here to Ig-loo-lik and even Pond's 
Bay — I doubt not. How remarkable it is that such matters are perpetuated by a 
peojilc that have no knowledge of books and writings ! But these facts which 
I now give record to cannot be learned in a moment. Friendship and confidence 
must be established first, and even then there are obstacles ever in the way, 
which i^revent rapid acquisition of knowledge among this people. I am blessed 
with having Ebierbiug and Too-koo-li-too for my company and interpreters. 

December 7th, 1864. — This morning Erk-tu-a, the relict of Ewe-rat, and 
old mother Ook-bar-loo, called on me. 

I began my inquiries by asking Erk-tu-a to report to me all the names she 
could recollect of the Kob-lu-nas she saw when at Ig-loo-lik. She began and con- 
tinued thus — Paree, he Esh-e-mut-ta (captain) ; Lyon, he Esh-e-mut-ta (captain) ; 
Par mee, he Esh-e-mut-ta-nar (mate on Lyon's ship) ; Oo-liz-e (on Parry's ship) 
Cro-zhar, Esh e-mut-ta-nar (mate or some ofBcer not so great as captain on Parry's 
ship) ; * * * Erk-tu-a says that Crozier was called Ag-loo-ka bj' the Innuits. Cro- 
zier's name was given to old Ook -bar-loo's sister's son, whose name was Ag-loo-ka, 
and Ag-loo-ka's name was given to Crozier. The Innuit Aglooka is still living, 
but called Oo-li-zhum. 

After Erk-tu-a said this much I opened Parry's work, " Narrative of 2nd 
voyage for the discovery of a North West Passage," and turned to the list of 
officers &c, in the introduction to said work. I readily made out to whom " Par-me " 
(as Erk-tu-a spoke the name) referred. Chas. Palmer was one of the lieutenants 
on board of Lyon's ship, "Oo-liz-e" I could not make out. # * * * * 

Erk-tu-a said there wore dogs at Igloo lik named after Crozier, and also after 
Parry and Lyon, and so the Inimits would name dogs after me in way of respect 
to mo, and in commemoration of one who had treated their people kindly. 
This compliment, though to many it might seem funny, is one that touched my 
heart. * * # 

Relative to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, mother Ook-barloo says (vorj^ 
reservedly — in a way of letting me know of a matter that is a great secret among 
the Innuits) "that two annatkos (conjurors) of Neitchille ankooted so nnich, that 
no animal, no game whatsoever \vt)ul(l go near the locality of the two iships, which 



December, 1864.) Couversations With Innu'its. 59 1 

were in the ice near NeitcMlle many years ago. The lunuits wished to live near 
that place (where the ships were) but conld not kill anything for their food. 
They (the Innuils) really believed that the presence of the Koblunas (whites) in 
that i^art of the country was the cause of all their (the Innuits') trouble." 

Mother Ook -bar-loo continued — " One man would not eat the flesh of his 
frozen and starved companions, and therefore when her nephew, Too-shoo-ar- 
thar-i-u, found Aglooka (Crozier) and three other Koblunas with him, Aglooka, 
who was the one that would not eat human flesh, was very thin and almost 
starved. One of the three men with Aglooka died, for he was very sick. He did 
not die from hunger, but because he was very sick. # * # 

The two an-nat-kos at Neitch-ille were very bad, for they ankooted on pui-- 
pose to have the Kob-lu-nas that were in the two ships two years in the ice all 
starved to death. Sometimes Neitchille an-nat-kos act very badly. 

December 8th, 18G4. — This evening I have had another talk with Ou-e-la, 
Shoo-she-ark-nuk and Ar-too-a about some of the men of Franklin's Expedition. 
The man who caught seals for Ag-loo-ka (Crozier) and some of his men — the thi-ee 
with him — ^is their cousin. His name is Too-shoo-ar-thar-iu. When he first 
found Crozier and the three men with them, Crozier's face looked bad — his eyes all 
sunk in — looked so bad that their cousin could not bear to look at his face. Their 
cousin gave Crozier a bit of raw seal as quick as he could when he first saw him. 
Did not give any to the other three, for they were fat and had been eating the 
flesh of their companions. It was near Neitch-il-le that this occurred on the ice. 
This cousin is now living at Neitch-il-le. When Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u first saw 
Crozier and the men with him, he was moving, having a loaded sledge drawn by 
dogs ; he was going from place to place, making Igloos on the ice — sealing — he 
had with him his wife, whose name is E-laing-nur, and children. Crozier and his 
men had guns and plenty of powder, shot and ball. The cousin took Crozier and 
his men along with him, and fed them and took good care of them all winter. Be- 
side a high cliff Innuits saw something like Now-yers (gulls) fall down to the 
ground, dead, and would not touch them, for Crozier had done something to 
them — they (the Innuits) knew not what. In the summer Crozier and his men 
killed with their guns a great many birds, ducks, geese and rein-deer. Crozier 
killed many — very many of the latter. The Innuits saw him do it. A Neitchille 
Innuit went with Crozier and his remaining two men when they started to go to 
their country. They had a kiak Avith which to cross rivers and lakes. They 
went down toward Ook-koo-seek-ka-lik (the estuary of Great Fisli or Back's Eiver). 
Their cousin liked Crozier very much. Crozier wanted to give their cousin his 



592 Conversations with Innuits. [December, i864. 

gun, but he would not accept it, for he was afraid of it, he did not know any- 
thing about how to use it. Crozier gave him his long knife (sword, as Too-koo-li-too 
and Ebierbing interpret it) and nearly everything he had. He (C.) had many 
pretty things. Crozier told Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u all about what had happened, but 
he could not understand all. This cousin is now alive, and knows all what he 
saw and what Crozier told him. 

The story now is, that Crozier with his two men and a Neitch-il-le Innuit 
started from Neitch-il le — started in the summer or fall — for the Kob-lu-nas' coun- 
try, traveling to the southward on the land. They had a small boat that had 
places on the sides that would hold wind (air) (Ebierbing said to me.) From their 
(our informers') description, the boat must have been an India rubber one, or 
something like it, with hollow places in the sides for wind (air) to hold it up 
when in the water. (By this it would seem that Franklin must have had in his 
vessels a boat or boats called Halkett's air-boats, or its equivalent. But I do not 
recollect of ever reading or hearing about this particular ; however, I believe 
that he (Franklin) must have had something of this kind aboard his ship.) 
There were sticks or holes for this boat, to keep it open (spread) when needed. 

This small boat was wrapped or rolled up in a bundle or pack, and carried 
on the shoulder of one of his men. The sides of this boat, something like Innuits' 
" drugs " that could be filled with air. * * # 

" In-nook-poosh-ee-jook is the name of an Innuit who went with others of his 
people aboard of Ag-loo-ka's ship after the Neitchille Innuits heard that the Kob- 
lu-nas had all left it. This was while Ag-loo-ka and his three men were living on 
the ice in an igloo with her nephew. In-nook-poosh-ee-jook and his companions got 
at that time a great many things out of the ship. This Innuit often visited I-wil- 
lik (Eepulse Bay). 

At 11 a. m. Old mother Ouk-bar-loo came in, bringing a long, thick slab of 
powdered walrus ook-sook (blubber) for our fire-lamp. I proceeded to ask her 
about the interview she had with In-nook-poosh-ee-jook. Ook-bar-loo said : He 
told her how he, his father, wife, and children, and other Innuits, went to a big tent, 
and there saw starved and frozen Kob-lu-nas all dead, many with the flesh aU cut 
off from the bones — the head and necks all whole. Around the necks of several 
were strings of beads. These the Innuits took, besides many tin canisters, cups, 
knives, and other things. After this, these same parties with others, visited the 
ship or ships (the old lady could not recollect whether there was one or two), and 
got a great many things and carried them ashore. No one was on board the ship 
when these Innuits went to it. No Kob-lu-na's dead body was about the ship. 



December, 1864.1 Cofiversations with Innuits. 593 

The Kob-ln-nas, or the Innixits, made a big hole in the bottom of the ship, 
as if they had wanted to sink it. The Innuits got two big long saws from the 
ship that the Kob-lii-nas had used to saw ice with and took them to the land. 
The Innuits saw that nearly the whole of one side of the vessel had been crushed 
in by the heavy ice that was about it, and thought that was why the Kob-lu-nas 
had left it and gone to the land and lived in the tents. By and by the Kob-lu-nas 
froze and starved. Among the things the Innuits got from the ship were a great 
manyood-loos (Innuit women's knives, like our domestic mincing or chopping 
knives in the States). These were all good, just what all the women wanted. 
Every woman had one, and there were more than enough for each woman and 
girl. Besides these, they got a great many knives for the men, such as pe-louds 
and pan-nas (small or short bladed, and long-bladed knives), a great many spoons 
and forks, a good many bright rings for the fingers, a great many round thin 
pieces of metal (medals and pieces of money, Too-koo-li-too says these must have 
been, from old Ook-bar-loo's description). Some were red, some white, and some 
looked like the metal ka-roons (a brass ornament worn on the foreheads of the 
Innuits here and at Neitch-il-le) are made of. (Too-koo-li-too thinks some of these 
money and medal pieces were bright gold and others brass). 

Thursday, De&r 15th, 1864. — 1.30 P. M — The astounding news that Ag-loo-ka 
(Crozier) arrived, with one man, among the Kin-na-pa-toos, his powder and shot 
nearly all gone ! I must give the particulars of the above startling news, as given 
me a few moments ago. At the time I got the above information there were, as 
usual through the day and evening, several Innuits in our igloo. The An-nat-koo's 

(Ar-too-a's) wife, and the wife of , and the old man. See-gar, were all seated on 

the dais or bed -platform, while Too-koo-li-too was at her place by her fire-lamp, en 
gaged telling these visitors about Ag-loo-ka (Orozier). Too-koo-li-too had just 
made the sympathetic remark — " What a i^ity it is that Ag-loo-ka and the two 
men who started together from JSTeitchille for the purpose of getting to the Kob-lu- 
nas country had never arrived." Old See-gar listened, as did the other Innuits 
present, to all that Too-koo-li-too said, and when she made the last remark, See- 
gar sprang from his seat, quick as a flash, and looking staringly at Too-koo-li-too, 
exclaimed with great force and surprise, " What ! Ag-loo-ka not got back ! Why," 
continued See-gar, " the Kin-na-pa-toos (Innuits who belong to Chesterfield Inlet) 
told me several years ago that Ag-loo-ka and one man with him arrived among 
their (the Edn-na-pa-toos) people, and that they (Ag-loo-ka and his men) had gone 
to where the Kob-lu-nas live further down the Big Bay " (to Churchill or Tork 
Factory, as Too-koo-li-too thinks See-gar tried to explain it). I was greatly in- 
S. Ex. 27 38 



594 Conversations with Innuits. [December, is64. 

terested as well as suri)rised, in what See- gar said, as now recorded. I at once 
had Too-koo-li-too ask old See-gar several questions, which he answered by com- 
municating as follows : 

Ag-loo-ka, of whom he (See-gar) had heard Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u tell all about 
at the same time that Ou-e-la and his brother saw him, arrived among the Kin- 
na-pa-toos, having one man with him, and his powder and shot were nearly aU 
gone. The Kin-na-pa-toos told him (See-gar) about this before, See-pee-lar (Cap- 
tain E. A. Chapel) and his brother came the first time into this bay (which was in 
1860). The Kin-na-pa-too Innuits said that Ag-loo-ka and his man had gone on and 
had arrived at the nearest place where Kob-lu-nas live, which must mean Fort 
ChurchiU. Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u told him (See-gar) (this was in the winter of 1853-4 
at Pelly Bay) that Ag-loo-ka would probably get home to where the Kob-lu-nas live, 
unless somebody killed him, for he (Ag-loo-ka) knew all about how to hunt and kill 
took-too (rein deer) and nearly everything else that the Innuits could kill ; knew 
how to keep himself warm, how to Uve, just as the Innuits do ; as he (E.) had lived 
and hunted with him (Too-shooar-thar-i-u) and with many others of the Neitchille 
Innuits. Ag-loo-ka knew all about e:v'erything that the Innuits knew. The Kin- 
na-pa-too Innuits told him (See-gar) about Ag-loo-ka and his men ; did not see 
them ; but said that they had their information from others of their people, 
who did. 

December 22nd. — Old mother Ook -bar-loo gives me a call every morning, 
oftentimes before I am up ; but, nevertheless, she is always welcomed, as I am 
really glad to see her, and have " talks " with one so filled with the traditions of 
her peo])le. Not only does she call every morning, but usually repeats her visits 
two or three times during the day and evening. Her second call to-day was at 
11 a. m. I was engaged writing at the moment of her coming in, and, after my 
usual greeting, continued on with it. Old mother Ook -bar-loo took her seat on 
the snow platform directly before me, and she and Too-koo-li-too did as aU women 
will do — went to talking. 

A few minutes before meridian Too-koo-li-too said to nie : " Ook-bar-loo 
has been telling me about a witch^' — as I understood Too-koo-li-too to say. I 
dropped my pen and looked Too-koo-li-too directly in the face, supposing that I 
might catch the i)eculiar smile indicative that she had a joke on hand for me ; but 
I saw she was in earnest, and that something of unusual interest must be in store 
for me. I therefore earnestly asked, " What did you say, Too-koo-li-too ?" She 
replied, "The old lady has just been telling me of a watch just like yours (mine) 
only not so large, that she saw when at Pelly Bay, which was all in complete order, 



December. 1S64.] ConversttUons with Innuits. 595 

and liad a long chain to go around the neck and a key ; and the old lady, who had 
it, told her (Ook-bar-loo) that it once belonged to one of the many Kob-lu-nas 
that had died near Neitchille." I need not say that I was an attentive listener to 
this. At once I left my " tripod " (seat of three legs), and set myself flat down on 
the fur-bed deer-skins beside both Too-koo-li-too and Ook-bar-loo, and requested 
the old lady to tell me all about this watch. 

Through Too-koo-li-too she said : " When she was at Ok-kee-bee-jee (Pelly 
Bay), which was in the winter of 1853-4), she saw a woman who had a watch, with 
chain and key, which she always kept very carefully by her. This mother was 
mother-in-law of In-nook-poosh-ee-jook, the man who told her (Ook-bar-loo) what 
she related to me the other day. This mother of In-nook-poosh-ee-jook told her all 
about where and how she got the watch. She and her husband went to a big tent 
not very far from Neitchille, and among the frozen mass of human bones and 
bodies that were lying around in it she saw one Kob-lu-na body that had a 
bright white (probably silver) chain around the neck. She knew at once what 
the chain was for, as some of the other Neitchille Innuits had just come into pos- 
session of several watches and chains, which she saw." 

''The body of this man was lying on one side, and was half imbedded in solid 
ice from head to feet. The way the chain was about the neck and running down 
one side of the body indicated that the watch was beneath it; and therefore, to 
get at the watch, she found a difficult and disagreeable task before her. Neither 
she nor her husband had any instrument with them that they would use for any 
such purpose as was desired; therefore, while the husband was seeking around, 
in and about the tent, collecting such things as he fancied would best suit him, 
she i)rocured a heavy sharp stone, and with this chipped away the ice from all 
round the body till it was released. Continued old mother Ook-bar-loo, in a truly 
sorrowful tone of voice : This woman told her that she could never forget the 
dreadful, fearful feelings she had all the time while engaged doing this; for, 
besides the tent being filled with frozen corpses — some entire and others muti- 
lated by some of the starving companions, who had cut off much of the flesh 
with their knives and hatchets and eaten it — this man who had the watch she sought 
seemed to her to have been the last that died, and his face was just as though 
he was only asleep. All the while she was at work breaking the ice near the head, 
especially the ice about the face, she felt very, very bad, and for this reason had 
to stop several times. She was very careful not to touch any part of the body 
whUe pounding with the sharp stone. At last, after having pounded away the 
ice from around and under the body, her husband helped her to lift it out of its 



596 Conversations with Innuits. [April, isos. 

icy bed. Still she was troubled to get the watch from the frozen garments with 
which the body was completely dressed. Finally, the watch and key and chain 
were obtained entire ; and the woman now keeps them very choice, in commemora- 
tion of the terrible feelings she had when getting them from the dead Kob-lu-na, 
whom she dug out of the ice with nothing but a heavy, sharp stone. I asked the 
old lady if this watch was like the one I carried on my person, at the same time 
showing her Eggert & Son's pocket-chronometer (loaned to me by those parties, of 
New York), which is an old-fashioned one, of large size, in a heavy double silver case. 
She had told Too-koo-li-too that it was not so large as this, and she said the same 
to me. I then drew out from under the took-too furs, where I keep it, a small 
pocket-chronometer in silver cases (which I have in my possession by the kind- 
ness of Augustus H. Ward, of New York). Old Ook-bar-loo said it was like 
this, of the same size and kind ; that is, it was of white (silver) metal. It was 
not of such metal as my gold pen, though she (Ook-bar-loo) had seen many parts 
of watches — watches that had been taken to pieces — that were of the same color 
with my gold pen." 



P APE E B. 

SOME TALKS WITH INNUITS : NORTH OOGLIT ISLANDS, APRIL, 1868. 

"After the death of Kia, Koo-loo-a thought he would go deer-hunting in that 
part of the country where Kia had seen the strange person, as he believed he 
might find something that would be useful to him thereabouts, and as he wanted 
some wood with which he might make arrows and spear-handles between Ar-lang- 
ung-u and the N. W. cape of Melville Peninsula. He hunted, but found nothing 
he sought for. Here I asked if he, Koo-loo-a, during his search, found any piles 
of stone, called In-nook-shoo by the natives. He replied that he did. I then got 
Eae's chart and placed it before us. Koo-loo-a soon comprehended its nature, and 
then said that the extreme N. W. jjart of Melville Peninsula, and the sea by it of 
the chart was not as the land and water really are. He said that quite a large 
river runs from the eastward nearly parallel with Adge-go (Fury and Hecla Strait), 
and empties its waters into a bay very near to Cape Ellice of Eae's discovery in 
1847. Near the river, south side of it, Koo-loo-a found a Monument of stone on a 
crest of rising ground, and a little to one side, west of the JMoiuiinent, where a 
curious kind of cache had been made of stones. The cache had been opened and 
the stones all thrown one side. The Monument and the cache stones all showed 
a great degree of freshness. He did not think they were the work of any Innuit. 



April, 1868.) Conversations with Innuits. 597 

He looked carefully about where the cache had been made for the object to learn 
what had been deposited there. No signs that any meat had ever been put 
there. He does not think that any Innuit had ever before been so high up 
from Ar-lang-na-zhu (Garry Bay of Eae's chart). Koo-loo-a was with Kia on 
the deer-hunt when the latter saw the strange man, though not present at the 
time when Kia sighted and followed the strange man. A short time before 
Kia saw the stranger in black clothes Koo-loo-a felt thirsty and came to a 
lake. He had laid himself down to take a draught of water, and at the very 
instant he was placing his face down to it, he heard a loud crack, which he 
thought must be of a gun, for when small and living at Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay) 
he had become familiar with the reports of the guns of white men that came 
there to kill whales. He was at the time so far from the sea that it could not 
have been the noise of ice cracking. Kia was very particular in telling him all 
about the strange man he had seen on Koo-loo-a and Kia meeting each other. 
The strange man was tall and carried some long thing on his shoulder and walked 
very fast. He had a cap on his head that was independent of his coat, but there 
was a hood to the long dark coat he had on. Kia kept himself hid behind the 
rocks and followed the strange man — for some time. Not long after Kia saw the 
strange man, that he (K.) thought must be an Indian; Kia heard a loud crack, 
which made him think of ice cracking, but the sea was too far off to hear so plain. 

Friday April 10th, 18G8. — This another gloriously fine day — succeeding days 
of cloudless ones. Vlll'' 30™ A. M. With Ar-tung-uu I am now to have a talk. 
I may here say that Too-loo-ar-chu and Ar-tung-ian are both old men who remem- 
ber well Parry & Lyon's visit to Ig-loo-lik. Parry was the attata (or father, so 
called of Too-loo-ar-chu, & as he (T.) says). Parry wanted much to have his parents 
consent that he should go home with him to England. Too-loo-ar-chu first saw 
Parry & Lyon at Nu-ee-u-new-gu-a (Winter island) Too-koo-li-too my Interpreter. 

I now ask Ar-tung-un if he ever heard of Et ker lin (Indians) being in this 
country. Ar-tung-uu says many years ago a little while before Koo-pa and his 
companions got so frightened by Et-ker-lin, many natives were there stopping at a 
place called Ing-near-ing up a large Bay to theN. E. of Igloo lik where one night 
in the fall of the year just before the time for snow the dogs commenced barking 
furiously when many Innuits sprang out of their beds and went out of their tents 
to see what was the cause. Some four or five Et-ker lin (Indians) were seen i^ass- 
ing along each conveying in his hand something like a stick. It was not so dark 
but that their figures were distinctly seen cutting sharply the back ground, which 
was the sky. Ar-tung-un was not one of the natives that saw those Indians for 



598 Conversations with Innuiis. [April, ises. 

he was too late getting out of bed, but not thinking it possible there could be 
any Koblu-nas about he thought the strangers must be Indians. The lunuits 
were all so frightened that the next day they removed from Ing-near-ing to an 
island Ki-ki-tuk-che-iik. Following the removal many Innuits together went 
deer hunting when two of their number Ar-tung-un one of the two stopped while 
the others went on — stopped to hunt deer together. The two men or natives 
Ar-tung-un & an Innuit now dead, Aler-gaite, were walking when all at once they 
heard the bang of a gun as Ar tung un thought, for he had heard guns fired many 
times when Parry and Lyon's ships were at Ig-loo lik — then looked around to see 
what made the noise and by and by heard another gun report when they saw the 
smoke as of a fired gun not far oft", arise from behind some land & immediately 
two took too (deer) came running swiftly from that same place from whence they 
heard the gun and saw the smoke. Then Ar-tung-un and his companion were 
terribly frightened and ran to their tents and at once removed their families from 
the main land to South Oo glit by the means of their ki-as ; the distance to Ing- 
near-ing, two sleeps or three days from this island, N. Oo glit. Never saw anything 
more of those Et-ker lin. 

Now Ar-tung-un tells about his son Koo-pa and other Innuits that saw Et- 
ker- lin. One time (not a great whdeafter the above) Ar-tung-uu & Al-er-gaite went 
deer hunting at the same place where they went deer hunting before together 
when they heard the gun reports & saw the smoke at the last report. The par- 
ticular place Ar-tung-un now marks out on Parry's chart & he shews the place 
to be by one of two or three small lakes that extend to the Westward of the vexy 
large lake I discovered and passed over last year on my return to Repulse Bay 
from Igloolik. The place is near the line of mountains Parry has upon his 
chart & on a parallel with Og-big seer ping, or as Parrj'^ calls it Agiviperwicl: 
They killed two deer & made a cache of them & returned to their tents when 
they sent three boys after them. The boys were Koo-pa, In-nu, & Kia ; the latter 
(Kia) In-nu-men's brother. Al-er-gaite was the one who returned to the tent first; 
that is, he got back before Ar-tung-un for the latter remained out overnight to 
watch a deer that he had shot with an arrow which remained sticking in the 
deer's side. Al-er-gaite was the one that sent the 3 boys after the two deer. 
When Ar-tung-un got back the boys had returned without the deer meat — had 
left the meat, dogs and all, for they had seen four Et-ker-lin near where the two 
deer had been deposited. After the deer had been put a part upon the backs of 
the dogs and a part prepared and put upon their (the boys') own shoulders they 
.saw upon a hill not far ott" four Et ker lin each with something like a stick in his 



April, 1868.1 Conversations ivith Innuits. 599 

hand and heard a noise like foxes, then great laughter. The fox noise and laugh- 
ter the boys did not hear until they had thrown away every thing and were run- 
ning away. Before the boys ran they saw the largest or tallest one of the Et-ler- 
kin who was A'ery tall make motions with his right hand which was raised high 
over his head. The motions were swinging motions from the Korth to the South. 
Soon as the frightened boys got back and repeated what they had seen, the 
Innuits all were alarmed and the lifting stone was resorted to, which said the 4 
strange beings were not Ut-ler-Jcin. 

Ar tung un says that a few years ago he was out hunting at Kee- wee-gee a 
place»little back of the line of mountains that run North or Westward of Am-i-toke 
on a parallel of Am-i-toke when too frightened deer ran swiftly past him. Soon 
large grey dog came swiftly on their track which the dog followed by scent. 
When the dog saw him ( Ar-tung-un) it stopped. As Ar-tung-un was about to fire 
an arrow at the beast (dog) he saw that a short string was about its neck — when 
he carefully unbent his bow and tried to coax the dog to him Kod-lu-na way. 
The dog appeared playful but was too shy to allow Ar-tung-un to catch hold of 
the string. The dog was following the deer from the North & when Ar-tung-un 
had tried to catch the dog it ran away to the N. W. as Ar-tung-un shows on 
Parry's chart. The dog had short hair & it did shine very much something like 
one of the dogs Parry & Lyon had, though larger. It had short ears. String 
short ; only touched the ground. His curiosity so excited about the strangeness 
ness of the dog he did not notice what hind of string it was about the dogs 
neck. The time that he saw the dog was before Dr. Eae came to Iwilllik the last 
time. The four or five Et Jeer Un at Ing-near-ing were seen before Dr. Eae came here 
the first time. The time the four Et-ker-lin seen by Koo-pa & the other two boys 
was after Dr Eae wa;; here first time as Ar-tung-un thinks and remembers. The 
dog a very small body, long thin legs & poor, the tail long & curving upAvard 
just like one Parry had only much larger; that is, the dog was the same build 
or form. While Parry's was black, the dog he saw with string around his neck 
was grey — (like in color one of mine old See-gar let me have, " grey.") Ebierbing 
says it surely was a grey hound" from Ar-tung-un's description. Ar-tung-un 
says they had three dogs on board Parry and Lyons ships. Ar-tung-un having 
said this ; I turned to pages 297 & 299 of Lyon's Private Journal & see that 
there was a large Newfoundland dog, a grey -hound belonging to Parry & a ter- 
rier " Spark" belonging to Eeid on board of the "Fury & Hecla." 

(It is with great exertion that I have kept about to day for I have been and 
am now really sick. I caught a severe cold on the day we laid over at our first 



600 Conversations with Innuits. [April, isos. 

Igloo encampment on the sea ice of Fox Channel at Oo-soo ark u. Thus with my 
sprained leg I am forced to think myself partially if not wholly an invalid.) 

" Saturday, April 11th, 1868. — The present notes I make + morning, for 
not until this morning, since Friday night, have I been able to rise from my couch. 
I shall pencil the notes as if made at the date of the heading. 

This morning, according to my previous arrangement, Nub-er-lik, accom- 
panied by Frank Lai lor, my servant, started off with my- sledge and team of dogs 
for I-gloo-lik to get a load of walrus meat belonging to Nub-er-lik and Too-goo-lat, 
which meat is for me and party to use on my proposed journey to Fury and Hecla 
Strait to the Western Sea of Ak koo-lee. Very many calls have I had to-day 
from the now numerous natives here, all sympathizing in my sickness. Almost 
every hour a family from Ping-it-ka-lik arrives here, at once coming in to see 
me, and then proceed to erect an igloo and place their household effects in it. 
My arrival has caused a small village to grow into quite a city. 

The old woman Ar-na-loo-a, of Parry fame, called iu to-day, being her 2d 
call since her arrival here. She expressed deep sorrow that 1 was sick, and said 
she greatly desired that I would soon be about again. She says that she was 
with her husband many years ago when he was hunting deer not a great ways 
from the mountains west of Am-i-toke, He was on one side of the pond and she 
walking on the opposite side. Her husband found a tenting-place at the foot of 
a mountain close by the pond. He found there a large oot-koo-seek, painted red, 
and a tin canister of same color, and he saw half a plate down in the water of the 
pond. There were strong indications that salmon had been cooked iu the large 
tin can, for there were salmon-bones about the can. Everything looked fresh, as 
if done not long before, for there was no moss or rust about the tin cans. Yet she 
and her husband thought no one could have left these things there but Parry or 
some of his men. The large can now at Too-noo-nee-roo-shuk. The small one was 
given to her brother, who is now near Ig-loo-lik. There was a fire-place of stone 
by the tent-place. She saw these things soon after Ar-tung-uu found them. Ar- 
na-loo-a saw the tenting-place near the foot of the mountain by the lake of the 
party that must have left the cans and made the fire-place. Tliis mountain is 
some distance to the of the wall of mountains that extend far to the north- 
ward back or west of Am-i-toke. This evening an Innuit by the name of In-nfi 
came in to see me, he having just arrived from Piug-it-ka-lik, where he and 
family are stopping. I recognized him at once as having seen him at Ig-loo-lik on 
my visit last year. Knowing him to be an Innuit who was of the party of tlie three 
boys who saw the rei)orted four Et-ker-lin many years ago, I raised my liead 



April, 186S.] Conversations tvith Innuits. 601 

from my couch and asked him if he had ever seen any Et-ker-lin. He answered 
quickly " Na-o " (no). Following this, he hesitated a moment, and then cor- 
rected himself, and said, many years ago he and Kia and Koo-pa together went 
after some deer-meat where some deer had been killed ; saw three Et-ker-lin. He 
then most earnestly and most eloquently described the incident, the same, save a 
few minor points, as Koo-pa had told me at Eepulse Bay a short time before start- 
ing on this journey." 

April, 12th, 1868, now l^* P. M. — Ar-tung-nn present as well as half a 
dozen other Innuits, large and small. I now ask Ar-tung-un about his once find- 
ing an oot-koo-seek that once belonged to white men (as told me by his son 
Koo-pa, and secondly by his wife Ar-na-loo-a yesterday). Old Ar-tung-un has 
been ankooting and no answer to my question above as yet. Parry's chart before 
him all the time while ankooting, his withered hand coming down now and then 
for its fate. I had placed it in our laps for the purpose of his showing the locality 
upon the spread chart so forcibly that I felt alarmed where he found the oot-koo- 
seek. He is now through ankooting, and proceeds to tell about the matter. 

Ar-tung-un was hunting took-too one summer a long time ago one day's 
travel from the line of moimtains eastward, nearly on a parallel with the point 
where Lyon turned back when seeking to find a pass through the mountains to 
the western sea in 1823, when he came to where there had been a ten ting-place — 
the shape of the tent as shown by the stones that had been used to fasten it down 
square or oblong, long and narrow. It was not such a tent as the Innuits use. 
The particular spot, near base of a mountain and alongside of a small lake. 

Alongside of the lake he found an ook-koo-seek, about 1 foot by 15 inches 
and 18 inches deep, as shown by Ar-tung-un's measuring with his hand on Parry's 
chart. It was tin, and painted red — completely inclosed except a hole in the top of 
about 3 inches diameter. Inside were some pieces of salmon bones. Besides this 
oot-koo-seek he found a round can about the size of a tin kettle hanging hy our 
flre-lami>, and this was painted red too. No top to this, but there was some very 
white tallow in it. Never saw any cans painted like this on Captain Parry's or on 
Lyon's ships. This can was painted all over on the outside, while those on Cap- 
tains Parry and Lyon's ships were only painted on the tops, with letters on the 
tops. On the other side of the fresh- water pond found an earthern stone jug, that 
is, as Ebierbing says, a jug like one Ar-mou gave me some seal-oil in a little 
while before we left Eepulse Bay, which was an earthen stone jug of light color. 
This jug Ar-tung-un found had its top broken off. These cans Ar-tung-uu found 
were not rusty, nor was there any moss about them; was very much surprised at 



602 Conversations with Innuits. [Aprii, ises. 

the freshness of everything about them, for he certainly thought that nobody 
but Parry or some of his ships' companies could have tented there and left those 
things. Alongside of the tenting spot was a fire-place of two stones and which 
were blackened with smoke. The fire that had been used was the Est-shu-tin 
(Andromeda tetragona), for a little of it was there in a little pile by the fire-place. 
Everything looked as though it had been done only a little while before. The 
smoke on the stones would not have been there on simply burning Est-shu-tin 
more than two or three years, and the wood would have been white and looked 
very different from what it did in less time, says Ar-tung-un. 

The time when he found these things was before he heard of Dr. Eae being 
at Iwillik the first time. He heard of Dr. Eae being at Iwillik the next summer 
after Dr. R. left, which was in 1847. Ar-tung-un does not now think it possible 
that these things could be left as he found them by Parry or his men, for the 
salmon meat that he found in the large red can would have gone, and everything 
else would have looked much older altogether than they did. Koo-pa and the 
other two natives with him saw the four Et-ker-lin before Ar-tung-un found 
these things. The place where the Et-ker-lin were seen was not far from where 
Ar-tung-un found the tenting-place and the things now described. This much 
has Artung-un told me as a man speaking without any thought of deception. I 
can read the man like a book. He means to tell the truth, and only the truth. 

An hour after the above interview I was present at a seal-feast at Nood loo, 
where was congregated a large number of Innuits ; and when through with the 
feast, with the aid of my "Joe" (Ebierbing), I had a talk with Ar-tung un, in 
presence of all the Innuits there, for the purpose of testing the memory and accu- 
racy of the old man. I asked him to tell me about the little dog which was on 
board Parry's and Lyon's ship. He said the little dog was a great favorite with 
everybody, and was a spotted one; one time a wolf came about the ships, and 
this little dog, with Parry's dog, which was a black one, ran after tlie wolf, when 
several white men hastened after the dogs to bring them back. After a while the 
men returned, bringing Parry's dog, but they could find nothing of the little pet dog ; 
so all concluded that the little dog must have been killed and eaten up by the wolf. 
Next day (contiiuied Ar-tung-un) some of the white men went out to see if they 
could find out what really had become of the little dog. When they returned 
they brought the head, it being all that they could find of the little dog. He 
could not remember the name of this dog, but on my telling him it was " Sjiark" 
he then smiled and said it sounded just like it. The old man has not only told 
the facts about this little dog — a terrier — as related by Lyon, whose work I have 



April, 1868.] Conversations with Innuits. 603 

with me, but has told this much more, that the dog was spotted, and that its head 
was found. I asked Ar-tung-un if Parry or any of his (Parry's) people ever had 
a tent or a party at King-me-toke-big for the purpose of killing ducks in the 
summer or for any other purpose. He said "No"; the reason some Innuits think 
so is because some beans and what was conjectured to be a Kob-lu-na tentmg- 
place were found there. Ar-tung-un said Parry and Lyon used to have hunting 
parties stationed at Ar-lang-nuk, but not farther south. 

North Oo-&lit Isles, Monday, April IMh, 1868. — This morning it was 
found that the ice-floe was passing in upon the island from the eastward ; there- 
fore the walrus-hunters were aroused early. Before VP A. M. my igloo had the 
better half of a very huge walrus on its floor, which Too-goo-lut, brother of Ik- 
kti-men, now of Repulse Bay, killed as soon as lie got upon the drif ting-ice. Soon 
as the walrus was killed, Ebierbing took our dogs and drew in the part as indi- 
cated above. 

I am waiting here at N. Oo-glit Isle for the natives to get a sufficient supply 
of walrus-meat for me and party to make a journey to the northern part of Mel- 
ville Peninsula adjoining Fury and Hecla Strait, and then search for white men, 
or such indications as may exist there to prove the truth of the many reliable 
statements that have been made to me by some of the Innuits now of Repulse Bay 
but formerly of Ig-loo-lik, and by some of the natives of this place; I am stop- 
ping also for more kow (walrus-hide) for the dog's food. 

Wednesday, April 15th, 1868. — Now, Xi'-lO™ A. M., and 1 have just had a 
most prompt response to my invitation for certain Innuits to come to my igloo 
and have a good talk with me. The following Innuits are present seated around 
me on our bed-platforms in our capacious igloo: 

Old people that saw Parry: Ar-tung-un and wife Ar-na-loo-a, Ag-loo-ka, 
Koo-loo-a, Too-loo-ar-choo, Oo-shoo, daughter of Tuk-kee-lik-e-ta; Tu-mu-king, 
In-noo-zhoo, Ek-ke-ra, In-nii, wife of Arng-na-look-shoo-shark ; Ebierbing and 
Too-koo-li-too ; Papa and wife. 

The talk begins with Iniui (Joe and Hannah, interpreters) : 

One time long ago In-nu, Kia, and Koo-pa went after some deer meat. When 
they got there, they saw three men on the top of a hill close by ; they had such 
clothes on that they shook very much in the wind. They all were sure they were 
not Innuits, but thought them to be Et-ker-lin (Indians). In-nu was so frightened 
he cannot remember what these men had in their hands. Cannot tell whether 
their clothes were light or dark. The place, near the high land west of Am-i-toke, 
between the large lake Tess-u-e-ark and the high land west of it; the large lake, 



604 Conversations with Innuits. [April, ises. 

the one I and One-la passed over from Ig-loo-lik last year. Soon as he, In-nu, 
and the other boys saw these Indians they threw away their deer meat, leav- 
ing the dogs with meat on their backs, and then ran with all their might for 
home. * * # 

Koo-loo-a says that at the same time he was hunting with Kia he had killed 
a deer and sat himself down on a rock and eat some of the meat. When he was 
through eating, he went to a small pool or lake to drink. He had put his head 
down, and just before getting his mouth to the water he heard something crack, 
which, he says, was ti-mana-to (the same) as the crack of guns ; — he had heard 
the crack of guns when living at Too-noo-nee (Pond's Bay). He could not tell 
from which direction the sound came on account of his position in the act of 
drinking; looked about, but could see no one, and did not hear the noise again. 
The place was near the N. W. extreme of Melville Peninsula, as he, Koo-loo-a, 
points out on Parry's chart. Same day Koo-loo-a heard the crack, as he thought, 
of a gun ; while walking around he came to fresh tracks on some grass and 
the tracks longer than his foot, the tracks so fresh that the blades of earth, 
grass had not all regained their upright position. Some of the grass was then 
graduallj^ lifting up as it had been trod upon. The steps long and foot-marks 
''turning out." 

Next morning after hearing the crack and seeing tracks both Koo-loo-a and 
Kia moved their tents and families away from that place. The next morning 
after moving, Koo-loo-a went to work fixing the skin of the deer he had killed. 

As Koo-loo-a was late in getting ready, Ki-a started off deer-hunting alone. 
By and by Kia saw a man coming up the hill on which he (Kia) was, coming 
directly toward him. Kia thought at first the man to be Koo-loo-a, but on look- 
ing longer and more observingly Kia saw his mistake, for it was not Koo-loo-a, 
but a strange man having a cap on his head that was distinct from his coat. He 
saw that he (the stranger) had strange clothes on and carried something strauge 
in a strauge way on liis shoulder. Kia could not, from his position behind the 
rock, see much of the stranger's face; the clothes not black nor white; coat 
on that came down to or almost to liis knees ; the make of clothes altogether 
different from Innuits. The stranger had something across his shoulder running 
diagonally; this something was long and wide at one end and narrow at the other 
end. He was Avalking rather fast and going directly toward the point on N. W. 
extremity of Melville Peninsula, as showed by Kia on Parry's chart. Kia fol- 
lowed the stranger up for some time and looked sharp at him. Kia kei)t himself 
hid among the rocks all the time. Next morning Kia and Koo-loo-a moved their 



April, 1868.J Conversations with Innuits. 605 

tents and families to the same place as when Kia saw the strange man, and then 
they all saw the stranger's tracks, which showed a long foot narrow in the middle. 
Same day Koo-loo-a, while hunting, saw the monument and cache stones he has 
before described. From there (the place where the tents were, the place where 
strange man had been seen) Koo-loo-a and Kia with their families removed down 
to Ar-lang-na-zhii (Garry Bay), and thej'^ saw nothing more of the kind he (Koo- 
loo-a) has been describing. Now 0"^ 30™ P. M. ; Koo-loo-a and all the Innuits are 
asked to get at the year when the above took place. In 15 minutes the answer 
comes by the show of 13 raised fingers = thirteen years ago last Fall. This brings 
it out that it Avas in 1854 that Kia saw the white man that I have not the least 
doubt was one of Sir J. Franklin's men. * * # 

Now I commence a talk with Oo-shoo, the wife of Too-goo-lat, the latter the 
brother of the good and kind-hearted In nu-men, now of Eepulse Bay, but lately 
of Ig-loo-hk ; Oo-shoo is the daughter of Tak-ee-Uk-ee-ta, whose portrait Lyon so 
faithfully drew for Parry's Narrative of his second voyage for the discovery of the 
N. W. Passage. Oo-shoo says that she was at Koong-wa (the Narrows uniting the 
N. Pole Lake with Christie Lake) many years ago, where a party of her people was 
stopping, deer -hunting, in the fall. There at t?.^ Narrows deer were killed, and 
some placed on deposit under stones ; a pile of Est-shoo-lin (dwarf of shrub An- 
dromeda tetragona), for fuel, was picked by Oo-shoo and the wife of Qua-sher. 
By and by Qua-sher and Too-goo-lat took their ki-as and proceeded on toward 
See-jak-big. Too-koo-lat's step-father (an old man), with the two women and Oo- 
shoot and Kan-wong-a (wife of Qua-sher) stojiped a while at Koong-wa, then 
moved along on the land by Christie Lake in the direction Qua-sher and Too-koo- 
lat had proceeded. Half-way to Nu-ker-ta (the place where Ar-too-a was drowned) 
the woman and the old man made a stop, tenting there. While the old man re- 
mained at the tent, the woman, Oo-shoo and Kan-wong-a, went back to Koong- 
wa (the Narrows) after some meat and things they could not carry the first time, 
and then, after getting what they wanted, they started back. By and by, want- 
ing to rest, they sat down on a stone, and soon Oo-shoo saw what she thought to 
be two Innuits ; soon came to the tracks of two men, which greatly frightened 
the women. The tracks were those of two men — of one large man ; the tracks of 
the two narrow in the middle and long. Before the women got to their tents 
they heard a noise, a shouting noise, but they thought it must have been the old 
man they left at the tent. When they got back to the tent, Oo-shoo asked the 
old man if he had been shouting, and he said no. They told the old man all 
about what they had seen and heard. # * # 



606 Conversations with Innuits. iMay, i8«9. 



PAPER C. 
JOTTINGS ON A SLEDGE JOURNEY. 

I. — INFORMATION PICKED UP MAY 8, 1869. 

Crozier had a little book as he sat in Ow-wer's tent, and wrote notes. He 
said, while in the tent, " Ag-loo-ka wonger," patting his own breast. Outside, he 
said he was going to I-wU-lik, making motions with his hand in that direction. 
No dog with Ag-loo-ka's company ; now-yers, geese, and ducks hanging to the 
boat. One man only very fat, the others all poor. One man with Crozier in Ow- 
wer's tent said. Tier-kin wonger. One man with one of his upper teeth gone, and 
one with marks on the indent or saddle of his nose. Trouble thought to be 
among the men ; but not so. They were putting up the tent and stopped, star- 
ing at the Innuits. When Crozier spoke to them then, they at once resuiAed their 
work. The Innuits left Crozier and men encamped there, and moved inland, sus- 
picious that they abandoned starving men. Crozier described to them the ice 
destroying their vessel, his men dying; the full meaning comprehended afterward 
by the Innuits. An awning over the boat, roof-like. No sword worn by Crozier. 
In a little bay were Crozier's party when the Innuits first saw them. One man 
cross-eyed or squinted. Same boat found on mainland, (or rather isle, as the tide 
is high on the west side of inlet of Point Richardson.) 

Crozier, while in Ow-wer's tent, eat a piece of seal, raw, about as big as fore 
and next fingers to first joint. 

II.— MAY 11, 1869. 

Poo-yet-ta was the Innuit who first found these remains of the five whites. 
The remains, some not buried, but some found lying down on the high parts of 
the island, all close together, and each fuUj'^ dressed ; flesh aU on the bones, and 
uumutilated by any animals. Next to Too-loo-a's body, was one preserved-meat 
can. This can found by Poo-yet-ta beside the body of Tooloo-a unopened. It 
was opened by the Innuits and found to contain meat and much tood-noo with it. 
No bad smell to it. The contents eaten by the Innuits. The meat and fat very 
sweet and good. A jack-knife found in the pocket of one of the five men. 

The graves of the two men (white) that are buried on the point of King Will- 
iam's Land on the east side the mouth of Peflfer River were found by Nee-wik- 
tee-too, a NeitchUle Innuit now dead. His widow, the old lady with shaking head 
at twenty-seventh encampment, whom I saw when there. The bodies buried by 



May, 1869.] ConversttUons with Innuits. 607 

placing stones around and over them; the remains facing upward, and the hands 
had been folded in a very precise manner across the breasts of both ; clothes all 
on ; flesh all on the bones. On the back of each a suspended knife found. The 
bodies perfect when found, but the Innuits having left the remains unburied, after 
unearthing them, the foxes have eaten meat and sinews all oft' the bones. A tent- 
ing-place of the Avhites close by where these two men were buried. Many nee- 
dles and one nail found by the Innuits at this tenting-place. 

These remains found the same spring as those of this island, Kee-u-na. 
There being nothing for the subsistence of any living thing on the isle, it is there- 
fore called Kee-u-na. 

The boat on the west side of the inlet — that is, west side of Point Eichard- 
son — was found same season of same year as remains at Kee-u-na. A keg of pow- 
der found at the boat, and much of contents emptied on the ground ; a gun or two 
found there. The nature and use of these things not known to Innuits till they 
saw Dr. Eae in 1854 at Pelly Bay. Poo-yet-ta had seen gnns of Ag-loo-ka when 
at NeitchiUe, but did not know the nature of the black sand stuff (powder). An 
igloo was blown to atoms by a little son of Poo-yet-ta and another lad, who were 
afterward playing with the powder canister having some of the black stuff in it. 
They dropped some fire into the canister through the vent or opening; their faces 
were awfully burned and blackened with the explosion ; no one was killed, but 
the igloo completely demolished. The grave and remains were in same perfect 
methodical state when found as those at the two at the mouth of Peffer Eiver. 
This grave on King "William's Land about due north of Kee-u-na. The body dug 
up and left unburied by the Innuits. This white man was very large and tall, 
and by the state of gums and teeth was terribly sick (bad state), as lu-nook-poo- 
zhee jook described. 

lU. — TALK IN AN IGLOO ON TODD'S ISLAND, MAY 14, 1869. 

Now, noon and the wife of Tiik-pee-too present in our igloo at my request, 
having understood that she has seen some of the skeleton-bones of the five men who 
died on this island, Kee-u-na (Todd's Isle) ; her name, E-vee-shuk. I now, with 
Jack's assistance as interpreter, ask her two questions : Did you see anything of 
the men who died on this island ? Answer. She has seen five skulls of the white 
men who died a long time ago here. Did you see Too-loo-ark? Answer. Saw the 
bodies of four white men in one place on the island, and of Too-loo-ark a little 
way from the four. When she first saw them flesh and clothing on aU the men ; 
the bodies entire ; and after making tupiks near, the dogs devoured much of the 



608 Conversations with Innuits. [J"iy, iseo. 

flesh of the kob-lu-nas. It was some time after this that she saw the five skulls 
she first spoke of as having seen. She saw these bodies entire one winter after 
Poo-yet-ta found them, and the clothes these men had on were black; — their 
kum-mins (boots) those men had on were of the same kind of leather as the belt 
I have given to In-nook-poo-zhe-jook ; tanned leather from the United States. 
Were these men buried? Answer. No, they were lying as they had died, on 
the top of the ground. Where are the skeletons now ? Answer. On this island, 
some in one place and some in another, but all are under the snow ; have tried to 
find them since we arrived here, but the snow covers them so deep cannot find 
even one bone. When snow is gone all the bones can be seen. Did you ever hear 
of any white men dying on Ke-ki-tuk-ju-a (Montreal Island) ? No, never. Did 
you ever go to the place where the boat with many dead kob-lu-nas were found by 
the Innuits on the other side of the strait? Yes, I have been there. Where is the 
place ? I now show her Eae's chart, and have shown it to her before, but not for 
the object I now have. On ascertaining the position of Point Ogle, Miscononchie 
Isle, and Point Bichardson, she puts her finger on the west side of the inlet west 
side of Point Eichardson, and says that was the place where the boat was found. 
Did you see any bones of white men there ? She did ; the land low and muddy 
there; the sea- water close to; saw pieces of the boat, after the Innuits had broken 
it up. Can bones — skeleton bones — be seen there now, when snow and ice are 
gone ? Answer. She thinks not, for it is so muddy there, and the mud soft, that 
they have all sunk down into it. She continues : One man's body when found by 
the Innuits, flesh all on, not mutilated, except the hands sawed ofl" at the wrists; 
the rest, a great many had their flesh cut off as if some one or other had cut it off 
to eat. 

I now go further on this island than our igloo is, for this woman to show me 
where she saw the five dead men before they were partially eaten by dogs. 

Tuk-pee-too and his wife E-vee-shuk, with one of their little ones, have just 
taken a walk with me, the woman leading me to the place where the five men died. 
It is the southeastern end of the island, within 20 fathoms of the shore. I have 
just marked the spot, on which we shall erect a monument, over which we shall 
pay our humble tribute to the noble dead. 

ONE OF HALL'S CONVERSATIONS WITH IN-NOOK-POO-SHE-JOOK AFTER HIS RETURN 

FROM KING WILLIAM'S LAND. 

July 5, 1869. — Another short inter\iew with In-nook-poo-she-jook this morn- 
ing about ten o'clock, just before he and the Innuits started off" on a sealing ex- 
cursion. Ar-mou assisted me in this brief talk, as Joe and Hannah were both 



July, 1869.] Conversations ivith Inmiifs. 609 

busily engaged outside of the tent. By the by, I can use quite a number of the 
Ee])ulse Bay natives to good advantage as interpreters when I talk with natives 
of distant places, such as Neit-chille, Telly Bay, and Ig-loo-lik. With the English 
Admiraltj^ chart before us, I asked In-nook-i)oo-shee-jook to tell me again where 
the monument had been erected that had the long stone on top pointing toward 
Ki-ki-tuk (King William's Land), which he told me about yesterday. He then 
pointed to the same place as yesterday, to wit, on the coast soutli side of Inglis 
Bay, south of the long narrow island which is but a little way east of the mouth 
of Castor and Pollux Elver, discovered by Dease and Simpson in 1839, the terminal 
lioint of their discoveries in that direction. In-nook-poo-she-jook then placed a 
board-nail which I had in my hand directly over the spot of the monument, the 
same nail j)ointing to Shar-too, and thence on to Point Victory, where another 
monument had been erected by white men and found by the Innuits. I was not 
only deeply interested in this particular description of his, but greatly surprised, 
for he particularly said that the long stone on the top of that monument not only 
pointed in the direction of Shar-too (Cape Colvile, low land opi)osite the S. E. 
extreme of King William's Land) but to the place of the monument that had been 
erected north side of the inlet at the northwest extreme of King William's Land — 
that is, at Point Victory. He said that Innuits who saw the said monument 
south side of Inglis Bay noted what he states. 

After seeing the direction in which this nail pointed to the northward and 
westward, I drew a line in the opposite direction, to the southward and eastward, 
to see if it might not, if prolonged, come near to Repulse Bay, and found such 
to be the fact ; therefore, the pointing stone may have been intended by those 
who placed it there to indicate whence they had come and to what place they 
were bound. But this latter is of my own conjecture, founded upon what lu- 
nook-poo-shee-jook has told, and upon what information has been derived from 
some of the Repulse Bay and Ig-loo-lik natives. 

Before I proceed to note the remainder of the information gained in this 
morning's interview, I will transcribe a few lines from Dr. Eae's report of his 
journey of 1854: — such part of it as refers to a monument he found in the very 
locality pointed out as above by In nook-poo-shee-jook. Dr. Rae at the time was 
in Inglis Bay at the embouchure of Murchison River; when the report reads : 

" The weather was overcast with snow when we resumed our journey at 

8.30 p. m. On the 27th of April we directed our course directly for the shore, 

which we reached after a shari^ walk of one and a half hours, in doing which we 

crossed a long stony island of some miles in extent. As by this time it was snow- 

S. Ex. 27 30 



610 Conversations with Innuits. [Jair, i869. 

ing heavily, I made my men travel on the ice, the walking being better there, 
whilst I followed the windings of the shore, closely examining every object 
along the beach. 

"After passing several heaps of stones which had evidently covered Es- 
kimo caches, I came to a collection larger than any I had seen, and clearly not 
intended for the protection of property of any kind ; the stones, generally speak- 
ing, were small, and had been built in the form of a pillar, but the top had Mien 
down, as the Eskimo had previously given me to understand was the case. Call- 
ing my men to land, I sent one to trace what looked like the bed of a small river, 
immediately west of us, whilst the other men and myself cleared away the pile of 
stones in search of a document. Although no document was found, there could 
be no doubt in my own mind and in that of my companion that its construction 
was not that of the natives. My belief that we had arrived at the Castor and 
Pollux Eiver was confirmed when the person who had been sent to trace the ap- 
parent stream-bed returned with the information that it was clearly a river. 

* # * u Having spent ui)wards of an hour in ft-uitless search for a mem- 
orandum of some kind, we began to retrace our stei)S," &c. 

I will follow the extract with a remark or two. Taking the story of In-nook- 
poo-shee-jook and the preceding extract of Eae's report into consideration, it is 
quite certain that the monument was that of white men. 

Now Dease and Simpson give no account in their first report of having 
erected any mark there — that is, at the place where their discoveries ended — to 
wit, at Castor and Pollux Eiver ; but in the Narrative, Simpson does give the 
account of raising a monument at the extent of their discovery, viz. Castor and 
Pollux Eiver. They also state that they erected a monument at Cape Britannia 
and another at Cape Herschel. To my mind, it appears reasonable that Sir John 
Franklin's Expedition was not idle after getting beset as it did on the 12th Sep- 
tember, 184G, near King William's Land. As the spring of 1847 opened, it is 
altogether likely that exi)loring sledge i)arties were started off, one at least down 
the west side of King William's land to connect the discoveries of Sir John Eoss' 
expedition with that of Dease and Simpson's, while another, quite likely, pro- 
ceeded down the east side to connect discoveries that had been made by the same 
expeditions. Of course, King W^illiam's Land was found to be an island, and 
the whole coast of the mainland (Boothia) from Cape Porter to Castor and Pollux 
Eivers was most undoubtedly explored and a record of these facts made and 
cached, in that parti(!ular moiuiment referred to by Eae in 1854 and now by In- 
n()ok-])oo-slie('-j()<)k. That some party of Franklin's Expedition visited the east 



jniy, 1869.] Converstttions wUh Ifinuifs. 611 

side of King William's Land, we have the trace in the knife at Cape Livingston 
which an Innuit found under some stones, as related by In-nook-poo-shee-jook 
in a late interview, as recorded in this book. I now proceed to note the re- 
mainder of the information old In-nook-poo-she-jook communicated in this morn- 
ing's interview. I asked him where the other monument was with a stone on its 
top pointing in a certain direction that he had told me about when L first met him. 
He said it was at Shar-too, at the same time putting his finger on the chart 
and moving it along down the east coast of Simpson's Peninsula till his finger 
rested on Point Anderson and Cape Barclay, which are at the entrance north 
side of Keith Bay, and then he said, " That is E-to-uki," meaning the projections 
Point Anderson and Cape Barclay. Then he moved his finger carefully along up 
the coast till he got to Points J. & E. Clouston, or Clouston Points, as they are 
called in the Admiralty chart, when he said that is where that monument was, and 
the stone on top was pointing directly towards a small island that is far out 
to the eastward and northward of where the monument was. He furthermore 
said that at the time he was there he was on his way to Eepulse Bay and he saw 
about there, tracks of strangers — not Innuit tracks — but then, no monument was 
there. A short time after, the same season, a party of Innuits passed the same 
place, and then there was a monument with the stone on top pointing towards 
the said islet in the oflflng. 



APPENDIX V. 



DEMAND FOR WHALE AND SEAL OIL IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JUTE. 



^F»PEISri3IX V 



WHALE AND SEAL OIL IN THE MANUFACTURE OF JUTE. 

It is well known that the vicinity of Hudson's Bay has of late years become 
less and less inviting to the whaler in place of proving the more and more prof- 
itable, as anticipated by Hall for his New London friends. In addition to the 
special reasons for this, growing out of the shortness of whaling season there, 
the difficulty of access and of the navigation of the straits and bay, the almost 
entire disuse of whale-oil for lighting and other purposes will be readily remem- 
bered. But it will also be remembered that this disuse was scarcely foreseen 
by Hall in his sincere and sanguine hopes of opening up new fishing-grounds, 
asked for by the whalers when he went out. 

Yet an exhaustion of the whaling-grounds which are now visited may turn 
the ships back to Hudson's Bay ; nor can any one, to-day, foresee that some new 
appliances in the advance of the age may not awaken such large and new demands 
for the oil and the bone as will also justify the revisiting of Hudson's Bay and 
its inlets. 

The following statement of the whale fishery as it was in the year 1865 is 
taken from the Whalemen's Shipping List. 

" On the whole, the success of the northern fleet has not been very encourag- 
ing, for although oil and bone are commanding apparently high prices, yet almost 
every article of merchandise has advanced more than our staples, and the euor 
mous expense attending a whaling voyage in these times will require a much 
larger catch to make any favorable compensation to owners of these vessels. 

"Although the weather in the Arctic and Ochotsk has been very boisterous, 
there have been only two vessels lost the last season — the Henry Kneeland, in 
the Arctic, and the Mary, in the Ochotsk. 

" The success in the Hudson's Bay whaling did not come up to our expecta- 

615 



616 



Whaling Interests, 1865. 



tions the past year. The great difficulty appears to be the short time between 
the breaking up of the ice and the closing up of the same, rendering the season 
available for whaling extremely short. Whales seem to be plenty, but they are 
very shy and difficult to capture. There were four arrivals from Hudson's Bay in 
1864 — three into New Bedford and one iuto New London — bringing 3,454 barrels 
whale-oil and 55,000 pounds bone. There are now wintering in Hudson's Bay 
and Cumberland Inlet twelve American whalers — the Anteloi^e, Ansel Gibbs, 
Black Eagle, Glacier, Morning Star, and Orraj^ Taft, Cornelia, George & Mary, 
Helen F., Monticello, Pioneer, and Concordia, — all of which will probably arrive 
home next fall. 

" Of the American whalers from the north, twenty -three arrived at San Fran- 
cisco, forty-two at the Sandwich Islands, one at Monterey, and one at Panama. 
All the foreign whalers arrived at the Sandwich Islands. 

f ,0f the eighty-one whalers which sailed from home ports in 1864, nineteen 
were bound to the North Pacific, fifteen to Cumberland Inlet and Hudson's Bay, 
fi.ve to Desolation and Hurd's Island, and the balance, sperm- whaling to the At- 
lantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans. 

" From present appearances, the import of sperm-oil will be considerably less 
this year than in 1864. The fleet on the Pacific coast is very small, and doing 
very little, with one or two exceptions. The South Pacific fleet is also much re- 
duced, and lias done poorly. Very few ships are in the Indian Ocean. The 
fleet in the Atlantic has done better, although whaling has been much inter- 
rupted about the Western Islands, the "Two Forties" and other grounds by 
uncommon rough weather. The quantity of oil landed at Fayal in 1864 by 
whalers is 4,862 barrels sperm, 883 barrels whale ; also 1,395 pounds bone. All 
the oil but about 300 barrels has arrived home. 

Exports of sperm-oil, whale-oil, and whalebone from the United States. 



Year. 



1864 
18G3 
1862 
1861 
1860 
1859 



Sperm- 


Whale- 


Whale- 


oil. 


oil. 


bone. 


Barrels. 


Barrels. 


Pounds. 


45, 000 


12, 000 


530, 000 


18, 866 


11,297 


279, 394 


27, 976 


68, 583 


1,004,981 


37, 547 


49, 9()9 


1,145,013 


32, 792 


13, 007 


911,226 


52, 207 


8,179 


1,707,929 



Whaling Interests^ 1865. 



617 



Imports from 1845 to 1864. 



Year. 



1864 

1863 
1862 
1861 
1860 
1859 
1858 
1857 
1856 
1855 
1854 
1853 
1852 
1851 
1850 
1849 
1848 
1847 
1846 
1845 



Sperm- 
oil. 



Whale- 
oil. 



Whale- 
bone. 



Barrels. 

64, 372 

65, 055 

55, 641 

68, 932 

73, 708 

91,408 

81,941 

78, 440 

80,941 

72, 649 

76, 696 

103, 077 

78. 872 

99, 591 

92, 892 

100, 944 

107, 976 

120, 753 

95, 217 

157,917 



Barrels. 
71, 863 
62, 974 
100, 478 
133, 717 
140, 005 
190,411 
182, 223 
230, 941 
197, 890 
184, 015 
319, 837 
260, 114 
84, 211 
328, 483 
200, 608 
248, 492 
280, 656 
313, 150 
207, 493 
272, 730 



Founds. 

760, 450 

488, 750 

763, 500 

1,038,450 

1,337,650 

1,923,850 

1,. 540, 800 

2, 058, 900 
2, 592, 700 
2, 707, 500 

3, 445, 200 
5, 652, 300 
1, 2.59, 900 
3, 966, 500 

2, 869, 200 
2,281,100 
2, 003, 000 

3, 341, 680 
2, 276, 930 
3, 167, 142 



Importation of sperm-oil, whale-oil, and whalebone into the United States in 1864. 



Where. 



New Bedford 

Fairhaveu 

Westport 

Dartmouth 

Mattapoisett 

Sippicau 

District of New Bedford 

New Londou 

Nantucket 

Provincetown 

Salem 

Edgartown 

Falmouth 

Sag Harbor 

Boston 

New York , 

Total 



Sperm- 
oil. 



BaiTcls. 

48, 172 

1,278 

2,241 

500 

881 

155 



Whale- 
oil. 



Barrels. 

35, 883 

711 

32 

525 

4 

9 



Whale- 
bone. 



Pounds. 
224, 250 
600 



700 



53, 227 

915 

78 

1, 8.50 

90 

153 

931 

1,133 

3, 894 

2,101 



64, 372 



37, 164 

8,091 

18 

1,742 

20 

1, 525 

232 

505 

9, 611 

12, 955 



71, 863 



225, 550 
149,000 



2,600 



15, 650 

1, 700 ' 

3,700 

1.59, 000 

202, 650 



760, 450 ■ 



Average prices of oil per gallon and bone per pound. 

Sperm. 

1864 $1 78 

1863 1 61 

1862 1 42i 

1861 1 3U 

1860 1 4H 



Whale. 


Bone. 


$1 28 


$1 80 


9.5J- 


1 53 


59J 


82 


44J 


66 


49^ 


80i 



% 



618 Markham on the Use of Oils in Making Jute. 



THE USE OF WHALE AND SEAL OIL IN. THE MANUFACTURE OF JUTE. 

The reports of Mr. C. R. Markham, one of the Secretaries of the Eoyal Geo- 
graphical Society, London, on the new demand for animal oils in the manufacture 
of the important article of jute, are in point as regards the new uses and new de- 
mands of the day upon the whaler. 

Mr. Markham's paper (Parliamentary) awakened an interest in this direction 
which prompted a request for statistics on the whale trade and its connection 
with the jute manufacture at Dundee. The full reply to these inquiries made by 
United States Consul McDougall, through the State and Navy Departments, is 
here appended as of interest in this twofold relation. 

[Extract from Parliamentary Paper 150 on the Moral and Material Condition of India during the 
year 1872-7:5, presented to Parliament by C. R. Markham, Esq., 1874.] 

" The most valuable special article of export from Calcutta, next to cotton, 
opium, and rice, is jute. The quantity of jute exported in 1828 was 364 cwt., 
worth £62, and the extraordinary increase that has since taken place is .due 
solely to the energy of the Eyots of Bengal. They found it profitable, engaged 
in it with alacrity, and created the trade. The large import of cheap Eussian 
flax into this country at first kept down the demand for jute, but this source of 
supply was destroyed when the Eussian war broke out in 1854, and the demand 
for jute became brisk. The Eyots seized the opportunity without any promiiting 
or assistance. 

" From 1858 to 1863 the average exportation of jute from Calcutta was 
967,724 cwt. From 1863 to 1868 it liad risen to 2,628,110 cwt. The (juantity of 
raw jute exported in lS72-'73 was 7,080,912 cwt., worth £4,142,547, an increase of 
nearly a million hundred-weight as compared with the previous year. Thus the 
Ryots have created and extended an industry in forty-five years to a value of 
more than four and a quarter millions, without any official encouragement or aid 
whatever. 

"In 1872 there were 3,955,455 cwt. of jute imported into the United Kingdom 
from India and 69,000 cwt. from other countries. Of this quantity 3,200,455 cwt. 
are used in Great Britain, almost entirely in Dundee. The remaining 755,000 are 
re-exported. Fi-ance takes 148,876 cwt. direct from Calcutta and 550,500 cwt. 
from England; Trieste takes 9,000 cwt. direct from India; Holland receives 
5,357 from India and 58,610 cwt. from England. In 1872 Germany took 77,831 ; 
Belgium, 31,192; Spain, 20,7«)8; nnd otiier ('0untri(\s, 16,176 cwt. by re-exporta- 



Markham on the Use of Oils in Making Jute. 619 

titm from England. Large power-mills have also been established for spinning 
and weaving the fiber under European management in India. At the Barnag- 
piir Mills, near Calcutta, there were 17 European overseers, 4,700 natives, and the 
mills work up 16,000 tons of jute iu a year. There are also jute-mills at Fort 
Gloster, down the Hugh ; at Budge-budge, at Eishra, at Chapdani, and two at 
Serampur. Women and boys are employed in the spinning, winding, and sew- 
ing, and men in weaving; the rates of wages being for men 11 aunas a day, for 
women 5 aunas 5 pie, and for boys 3 annas 5 pie. The work is ijractically con- 
fined to making gunny bags and cloths, and the total value of the gunny-bags, 
cloths, twine, and rope exported in 1872-'73 was £835,911. The success of these 
jute-mills has been very great, and there are also many jute screw-houses and 
warehouses. 

" It is remarkable how various industries, carried on at A'ast distances, act 
ui)on each other. The growth of jute in Bengal led to its manufacture in Dun- 
dee, and this caused the revival of the whale fishery iu Bafiin's Bay. In 1872 
the quantity of jute imported direct into Dundee was 1,828,614 cwt., and the 
bulk of the whale-oil is required by the jute manufacturers of Dundee and its 
neighborhood. 

" Thus the port of Dundee has now become the center of the whale-fishing 
trade, and cargoes of oil from the Arctic Eegions may be seen discharging along- 
side cargoes of jute from Calcutta, both being essential to the prosperity of this 
industry. The Dundee Chamber of Commerce has represented that an Arctic 
expedition is desirable, in order that new haunts of oU-beariug animals may be 
explored ; and if an Arctic expedition will benefit the jute manufacturers of Scot- 
land, it is equally important to thousands of industrious Bengal Eyots, to whom 
jute cultivation gives employment and the means of subsistence." 



report of united states consul matthew mcdougall, dundee, scotland, 
on the jute manufacture at dundee. 

"Department of State, 

" Washington, January 15, 1878. 
"Sir: Adverting to former correspondence upon the subject, I have the 
honor to inclose herewith, for the information of Professor Nourse, of the Naval 
Observatory, a copy of a dispatch of the 16th of November last, from the Con- 



620 U. S. Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 

sill at Dundee, iii relation to the whale tisliery and jute manufactory carried on 
at that place. 

" I have the honor to be, sir, your obedient servant, 

"WM. M. EVAKTS. 
" The Hon. E. W. Thompson, 

" Secretary of the Navy?'' 



Mr. McBouf/all to Mr. Seward, November 10, 1877. 
[Iiiclosnrc 1 in No. l;57.] 

Consulate of the United States of America, 

Dundee., November 16, 1877. 
Sir : Eeferring to your dispatch No. 72, dated the 2d ultimo, and to my 
acknowledgment of receipt of same per dispatch No. 136, dated the 16th of that 
mouth, I have now the honor to send you " statistics of the whale fishery and of 
the jute manufactory carried on at the port of Dundee for the years 1865 to 1875," 
Avhich are supplemented by flgiu-es relating to the whale fishery for the years 
1876 and 1877 and to the jute trade for certain years previous to 1865 and for the 
years 1876 and 1877. I also give you various other tables connected with the 
development of these industries, and such information bearing on these subjects 
as I consider may be useful. 

WHALE-FISHING INDUSTRY. 

Having entered very fully into this subject in my annual report forwarded 
to your Department for this year, ending 30th September, I beg to state that the 
quoted matter under this heading is taken from that document. 

" The success attending the whaling-fleet belonging to this i)ort was consid- 
erably greater in 1876 than in 1875. All the vessels, twelve in number, prosecuted 
both seal and whale fishing in 1876. The only change in the course usually fol- 
lowed was by one vessel, which went to Labrador instead of Greenland, with the 
other ships. The total catch at the seal-fishing was in 1876 57,776 seals, yield- 
ing 625 tons of oil. Seal-oil last year was valued at £32 i)er ton, and the aver- 
age price for skins was 6s. Taking the 625 tons of oil at £32 gives £20,000, and 
57,776 skins at 6.s'. each i)roduces the sum of £17,332 16s.; so that the value of 
the seal-fishing in 1876 was £37,332 16s. Only one vessel returned clean from 
the seal-fishing. 

The total catch at the whale-fishing was in 1876 64 whales, yielding 824 



TJ. S. Consul McDongaW s Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 62 1 

tons oil and 45 tons of bone. The selling price of whale-oil in 1876 was £35 
per ton; and although as high as £1,200 per ton was got for bone, £800 
was the average price. The 824 tons of oil f)roduced £28,840 and the 45 tons of 
bone £36,000; total for the whale-fishing, £64,840; total for the seal-fishing, 
£37,332 16s. ; total for both fishings, £102,172 16s. Of conrse from this sum falls 
to be deducted the expenses of the fleet, which must necessarily be very heavy. 

In 1875 the value of the seal-fishing was computed at £27,026 7s. Gd. and the 
whale-fishing at £50,325; total for both fishings, £77,351 7s. 6(1. This shows an 
increase in favor of 1876 in the seal-fishing of £10,306 8s. 6(1. and in the whale- 
fishing of £14,515 ; total increase in both fishings for 1870, £24,821 8s. 6(7." 

" This year two vessels went to the seal-fishing in Labrador compared with 
one in 1876 ; and they were so successful, that the Dundee Seal and Whale Fishing- 
Company have resolved to form a branch establishment at Newfoundland, and 
next spring two of their largest and most powerful screw-steamers, instead of 
going to Greenland, will be dispatched to the Newfoundland seal-fishing. The 
company has acquired a piece of ground, on which they are erecting the neces- 
sary buildings for carrying on the work connected witb the fishing, including 
boiling-house, &c. There being no docks for the accommodation of the vessels, 
the company is constructing a wharf in close proximity to its premises, so that 
the steamers will be enabled to discharge their catches almost at tlie doors of the 
establishment. With the two steamers sent out by another company here (those 
which went this year) this will now make four Dundee vessels that will prosecute 
the Newfoundland seal-fishing next sjiring. The effect of this change will of 
course be to give the remainder of the Dundee vessels gotug to Greenland a bet- 
ter chance of success, and it is hoped the results will prove satisfactory to all 
concerned. 

" As all the vessels of the Dundee whale fleet have now arrived from the New- 
foundland and Greenland seal and whale fisheries for the year, I am able to give 
you the number of seals and whales caught and other particulars. The whole of the 
vessels (how thirteen in number) Avent both to the seal and whale fishing this year, 
two going to Newfoundland instead of to Greenland with the other ships. The 
number of seals caught in Newfoundland (Labrador) this year was for two vessels 
46,600 seals, yielding 750 tons oil ; last year one vessel, 4,000 seals, yielding 47 
tons oil ; increase in 1877, 42,600 seals, 703 tons oil. 

''The number of seals caught in Greenland this year was for eleven vessels, 
29,400 seals, yielding 342 tons oil ; last year, for eleven vessels, 53,776 seals, yield- 
ing 578 tons oil ; decrease in 1877, 24,376 seals, 236 tons oil. 



622 U. S. Consul McBougalVs Report on Oils and Jute in Dundee. 

"The number of seals caught in Newfoundland (Labrador), as above, in 1877, 
46,600 seals yielding 750 tons oU; in Greenland, 29,400 seals, yielding 342 tons 
oil ; total, 76,000 seals, 1,092 tons oil. Total in 1876, 57,776 seals, 625 tons oil. 
Increase in 1877, 18,224 seals, 467 tons oil. 

"At present seal-oil is valued at £32 per ton, while the skins average 5s. each. 
Calculating the 1,092 tons of oil got this year at £32 gives £34,944, and 76,000 
skins at 5s. each yield £19,000; so that the total value of the seal-fishing this 
year is £53,944. Last year the total value of the catch at the seal-fishing was 
estimated at £37,332 16s. Increase in 1877, £16,611 4s. 

"Unfortunately five of the eleven vessels that went to the Greenland seal- 
fishing this year returned clean. But at the whale-fishing there was no such 
unlucky experience. The thirteen vessels brought from the Greenland whale-fishing 
this year 81 black whales, yielding 835 tons oil and 42^ tons of bone, and 935 
white whales, yielding 120 tons oil ; total, 1,016 whales, yielding 955 tons oil and 
42 J tons of bone. 

"In 1876 the catch was 64 black whales, yielding 824 tons oil and 45 tons of 
bone. Increase in 1877, 17 black whales, 935 white whales, and 131 tons oil. De- 
crease in bone in 1877, 2J tons. 

"At present the selling price of whale-oil is £35 per ton, and bone may be 
taken at the price £1,400 per ton. The value of 955 tons oil at the price given 
would be £33,425, and the 42i tons of bone would give £59,500. Total value of 
the whale-fishing for 1877, £92,925. The total value of the whale-fishing for 1876 
was £64,840, making an increase in 1877 of £28,085. 

" Total value of the seal-fishing in 1877, £53,944; total value of the whale 
fishing in 1877, £92,925; total for both fishings 1877, £146,869 (of which sum 
the expense of the fleet has to be deducted). Total for both fishings in 1876, 
£102,172 16s. Increase on both fishings in 1877, £44,696 4s. 

"This gratifying result, it will be seen, is greatly due to the remarkable siic- 
cess of the two vessels which went to the Newfoundland (Labrador) seal fishing 
this year. 

"The following is a very complete statement, showing the produce of British 
vessels from 1865 to 1876, inclusive, at the Davis Straits and Greenland seal and 
whale fishing. I also include the number of seals and whales caught this year at 
Greenland and Labrador by the Dundee vessels." 



U. S. Consul McDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 623 



Statement. 



i Year. 



Ports. 



Vessels. 



Seals. Whales. 



1865 PeterLead 

....do 

Dundee 

Kirkcaldy 

Hull 

....do 

Frazerburgh 

Aberdeen 

1866 Peterbead 

....do 

Dundee , 

Hull 

....do 

Frazerburgh 

Aberdeen 

1867 Peterhead 

....do 

Dundee 

Hull 

Frazerburgh 

Aberdeen 

1868 Dundee 

....do 

Peterhead 

....do 

Frazerburgh 

Aberdeen 

Hull 

1869 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do 

Aberdeen 

Hull 

1870 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do 

Aberdeen 

1871 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do 

1872 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do . 

1873 Dundee 

....do 

Peterhead 

1874 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do 

1875 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do 

1876 Dundee 

Peterhead 

....do 

1877 Dundee (Greenland and 

Newfoundland). 



10 sailers 

3 steamers . . . 

7 steamers . . . 

1 sailer 

1 sailer 

1 steamer 

2 sailers 

1 sailer 

9 sailers 

3 steamf^rs . . . 

11 steamers .. 
1 steamer 

1 sailer 

2 sailers 

1 sailer 

8 sailers 

4 steamers . . 

12 steamers . 

1 steamer . . 

2 sailers 

1 sailer 

13 steamers . 

1 sailer 

8 sailers 

4 steamers . . 

2 sailers 

1 sailer 

I steamer... 

II steamers . 

9 sailers 

4 steamers . . 

1 sailer 

1 steamer . . . 

10 steamers . 
7 sailers 

4 steamers- . 

I sailer 

10 steamers . 
(5 sailers 

5 steamers- . 

II steamers . 

5 sailers 

6 steamers. . 

11 steamers. 

1 sailer 

7 steamers. . 

3 sailers 

11 steamers. 

5 steamers . . 
3 sailers 

12 steamers . 

6 steamers. . 

2 sailers 

12 steamers. 
5 steamers . . 

3 sailers 

13 steamers - 



17,291 

10,248 
64, 041 



5 

6 

50 



Seal- 
oU. 



Whale- 
oil. 



Whale- 
bone. 



Tons. Tons. 

195 71 

113 84 

734 547 



5 I. 



12,219 



156 



40 



16, 188 
16, 632 
48, 418 



31 

9 

30 



187 
210 
674 



299 
100 
333 



16 



4,571 



62 



13,208 
21, 368 
53, 822 



9 
16 
4 
2 
2 



160 
287 
619 



100 

151 

29 

22 

26 



8,217 



16, 458 



13, 774 

18, 038 
3,986 

"230 
44, 424 

8,868 
16, 021 



107 
1 

*16 
4 



124 



199 

165 

228 
32 



6 < 



9 

t8 
4 



3 

458 
125 
256 



856 

7 

262 

23 



80 



118 

118 

25 



87, 768 

8,373 

32, 087 



1 
61 

18 



64, 497 
17, 047 
34, 837 
40. 391 

1,851 

8, 442 
25, 480 

4,131 
37, 827 

6,784 
44,087 

8,113 

615 

44,445 

27, 198 



133 
11 

8 

105 

9 

24 

158 



862 
132 

487 



2 

12 

190 



57, 776 

4,180 

371 

76, 000 



79 
t6 
13 
64 

$13 
5 

1181 



652 

194 

481 

410 

. 25 

129 

262 

46 

754 

73 

575 

195 

2 

418 

3.55 



734 
125 



1,163 
105 
80 
969 
131 
293 

1,303 



625 

75 

5 

1,092 



16 

110 

,419 

95 
148 
706 
113 
156 
824 
222 

69 
955 



Cwts. 



650 



60 



373 
"46' 



120 



20 
40 



944 

5 

90 

17 



108 



128 
49 
25 



5 

871 

144 

5 

91 

1,313 

155 

76 

1,032 

132 

292 

1,344 



16 

115 

1,436 

91 
153 
729 

77 
164 
900 
138 

94 
850 



* And 645 white. t And 859 white. t And 360 white. 5 And 700 white. II And 935 white. 



624 U. 8. Consul McDoiigalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 

" It will be observed fi-om the above statement that the whole of the British 
Vessels engaged in the Davis Straits and Greenland seal and whale fisheries now 
belong to this Consular district, and of these the largest number belong to Dun- 
dee, and are all steamers ; indeed, sailing-vessels are quite the exception, Peter- 
head being the only port that has two or three old sailing-ships which go to 
Greenland, and it is i^iedicted that in the course of a year or two these will either 
be turned into screw-steamers or laid aside for steam-vessels." 

2. JUTE TRADE. 

" The staple industry of Dundee and neighborhood is the manufacture of jute 
fabrics, chiefly of a coarse kind, such as double wrap-bagging, sacking, burlaps, 
&c. The bulk of the jute used here is turned into this class of goods, or yarns 
suitable to make the same (these yarns being mainly exported to the European 
Continental factories, to be there woven into cloth), and the balance into a great 
variety of other stuffs of a finer description, called duck-padding, canvas, carpets, 
hearth-rugs, matting, &c. 

"The introduction of jute into Dundee with the view to its manufacture was 
in 1823 or early in 1824 ; but the first experiments made with it were not satis- 
factory. Some years elapsed before any further attempts were tried to manii)u- 
late the fiber. About the beginning of 1832 repeated efforts were made to over- 
come the difficulties in spinning jute by machinery, and by perseverance, skill, 
and improved machinery these obstacles were successfully surmounted, and now 
jute manufacturing has risen to be the principal business in this town, and has 
also been a source of great wealth to this community. 

" The first noticeable impetus given to the jute trade was caused by the 
Eussian war in 1854. The belligerents on both sides jconsumed vast quantities 
of coarse linens. This, together with the supply of flax from that country being 
cut off, created a strong demand for jute material to take the place of that for- 
merly made from flax. The jute trade still retains in a great measure the ad- 
vantage it gained at this time, jute fabrics, by their cheapness and strength, 
having permanently supplanted various kinds of flax-cloth, which it was only 
considered they would substitute in the emergency. The profits then realized 
stimulated enterprise very much, and led to the erection of new works in Dundee 
for spinning and weaving jute exclusively by power, and to substantial additions 
to those works already in existence. 

" The following tables show how many jute factories there were in the United 
Kingdom in 1862, with the number of spindles, power-looms, amount of moving- 



U. S Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 625 



power, and number of persons employed. It will be observed that most of these 
are in Dundee and district : 

Jute Factories in 1862 in the under-noted countries. 



Country. 


County. 


1 

o 
u 

-a 


I) 

a 

■ft 

CO 


i 

u 
o 


Amount of mov- 
ing power. 


ti 

a« 


Steam. 


Water. 


Englaud... 


Dorset 


1 
1 

1 
1 


320 

60 

240 




12 

20 

18 

■ 12 




33 

31 
27 
16 


Lancaster 




Middlesex 


Total .. . 


Surrey 








4 


AOM 




62 




107 








Scotland... 
Total.... 


Forfar (Dundee and district). 

Lanark 

Renfrew 


24 
2 

1 


28,094 
1,000 
1,444 


406 

48 
100 


1,494 

1.53 

90 


20 
46' 


4,828 
216 
374 




27 


30, 538 


554 


1,737 


60 


5,418 






Ireland 

Total.... 


Antrim 


3 
2 


1,824 


194 
55 




385 
57 


Down 








5 


1,824 




249 




442 






Summary. 
England 


4 

27 
5 


620 

30, 538 

1,824 


""'554' 


62 

1,737 

249 


60" 


107 

5,418 

442 


Scotland 


Ireland 


Total 


3G 


32, 982 


554 


2,048 


60 


5, 967 





The majority of the workers in jute factories are females, some boys ; and a 
few men to act as overseers, managers, and mechanics are also employed. 

The remarkable progress the trade made from 1838 to 1860 is exhibited by 
the following note of the imports of jute in three years into Dundee. It will be 
noticed that in 1855, the year after the outbreak of the Eussian war, the increase 
is extraordinary, and that the subsequent years show also a steady increase. 
S. Ex. 27 40 



626 U. S. Consul McDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 

Jute imported into Dundee. 



Years. 


By sea. 


By rail. 


Total. 


1838 


Tons. 

1,136 

2, 411 

2,745 

2,661 

2, 740 

4,858 

5,515 

8,313 

9,230 

6,966 

8,885 

7,946 

6, 335 

7,386 

9,874 

8,165 

6,224 

12, 333 

16, 948 

8,158 

13, 828 

21, 683 

22, 829 


Tons. 


Tons. 


1839 






1840 






1841 






1842 

1843 

1844 

1845 


















1846 






1847 

1848 






20 

4, 196 

7,745 

9, 542 

7,109 

7, 235 

10, 366 

13,561 

14,083 

16, 184 

16, 258 

16,722 

14, 136 


8,905 
12, 142 
14, 080 
16, 928 
16, 983 
15, 400 
16, 590 
25, 894 
31,031 
24, 342 
30, 086 
38, 405 
36,965 


1849 


1850 


1851 

1852 


1853 


1854 


1855 


1856 


1857 


1858 


1859 


1860 



"The enormous consumption of coarse goods by both armies in the American 
war, 1861-'65, gave the next market stimulus to the jute trade. The i^riccs ob- 
tained during this warfor jute goods were unprecedented in the history of the trade, 
and they have never since been so high, and those engaged in the trade during 
this period were thus enabled to amass handsome fortunes. The prosperity gave 
the trade a firm footing in Dundee, and induced spinners and manufacturers to 
build more new works and to go on making additions to the old ones. I cannot 
give you the exact number of jute factories, &c., in operation at the end of the 
American war, but the next statement proves that there must have been a most 
favorable increase of jute machinery in these few years, when it is understood 
that the greater proportion of the total increase here shown refers to the jute 
trade, and almost solely in this locality." 



U. S. Consul McBougaWs Eeport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 627 
Return ofJiajc,jut€, and hemp factories in Scotland, September, 1867. 



Districts. 


Number o f 
works. 


— a 




o a 

o 
'^ ft 


§1' 


Forfarshire (Dundee and district) 


108 

51 

17 

5 

1 


7,715 
2,691 

847 
74 

785 


278, 564 

74, 058 

21,034 

2,818 

16,814 


11,329 
5, 038 
1,348 


46, 571 
11,579 

3,740 
120 

2, 175 


Fifeshire . 


Perthshire . . ... 


KiucardineshLre 


Aberdeen 


428 


Total 

Other parts of Scotland 


182 
15 


12, 112 

2, 840 


393, 918 
93,661 


18, 143 
1,774 


64, 185 
13, 010 


Grand total 


197 
192 


14, 952 


487, 579 
312, 239 


19, 917 

8, 520 


77, 195 
39, 562 


Grand total in 1862 


Increase 


5 




175, 340 


11,397 


37,033 



"After the American war terrninated the trade returned more to its normal 
condition, but still kept on flourishing to 1873 on account of general trade through- 
out the world being vigorous. So rapid had been the advancement of the trade 
in the years 1862 to 1873, that in this last year it was estimated there were upward 
of 100 jute factories in Dundee and immediate vicinity, employing from 60,000 to 
65,000 hands. I here give a table of the amount of the horse-power in the flax, 
hemp, and jute mills and factories in Dundee alone in the years stated. The jute- 
works may be credited with a large share of the increase shown from the years 
1860 to 1874 : 

Horse-power of mills and factories in Dundee. 

Horse- 
power. 

In 1808 63 

In 1820 Ill 

Iul832 805 

In 1860 4,782 

In 1867 7,032 

In 1874 10,000 

" Up to 1873 most of the jute consumed in the United Kingdom was in and 
around Dundee, but the manufacture had now begun to extend in different places 
in this country, on the Continent of Europe, and more especially in Calcutta and 
other parts of India. This competition (particularly that of Calcutta), combined 
Avith the financial panic in the United States in the autumn of 1873, gave the 
trade a severe check, and it has continued very depressed ever since, with prices 



628 U. S Consul McDougaWs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 

at the lowest ijoint, and in the principal portion of the trade unquestionably 
unremunerative. 

"It is affirmed that had it not been for the large sums accumulated by the 
manufacturers in the ten years of good trade previous to 1873, great commercial 
disaster must have been the inevitable consequence of the very unprofitable state 
of the trade here during the last three or four years, 

"Among those manufacturers "who entered into the trade in 1873-'74, when 
trade was beginning to decline, and who consequently did not reap any of the 
good profits yielded in former years, there have been many failures. I have 
again to quote from my annual report for this year : 

" So bad has the trade been considered, that many manufacturers have found 
it more for their interests to close their works entirely than to go on making goods 
at an absoliate loss. 

" The chief local newspaper says there are at present standing idle in Dun- 
dee and district 12 mills and factories employing 3,400 hands, 7 mills employing 
1,770 hands, 4 factories employing 070 hands. Total, 23 mills and factories and 
5,840 hands. 

" Seven of these works have been closed through the suspension of the firms, 
but the majority have been stopped voluntarily, by the owners wishing to with- 
draw from losing concerns and others from the want of orders for the special class 
of goods manufactured by them. A number of these works ceased working six 
months ago ; some as far back as the end of 1876. Nearly the whole of the works 
still in operation are running with fewer hands than at this time last year ; one 
firm alone having 600 less." 

" So that the number of mills and factories in Dundee and district is now 
approximated at from 70 to 80, employing from 50,000 to 60,000 hands making jute 
goods. 

"Without doubt the great production of jute fabrics in Calcutta for the last 
two or three years has been the main cause of the extreme depression of the trade 
here. At any rate, Calcutta is now the most powerful competitor with Dundee, as 
three or four of the largest jute- works in other parts of the United Kingdom have 
recently stopped working, and those in other towns throughout the country are 
working with less hands, thus reducing the competition in this country with Dun- 
dee to a minimum. 

" Calcutta is represented as having 20 mills, 4,780 looms; 80 per cent, of the 
spindles and looms are on double-warp bagging and sacking and 20 per cent, on 
Ilessian or burlap cloth. These figures show that Calcutta is a formidable rival 



U. S. Consul McDougalVs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 629 



to Dundee in the manufacture of the coarse stuffs on the making of which this 
town has always relied. An immense quantity of this quality of cloth is produced 
in this locality, three-fifths of the mills and factories having machinery only 
adapted for spinning the yarus for and weaving this cloth." 

The Calcutta manufacturers are in the mean time underselhng Dundee in the 
Australian, Egyptian, and Californian markets. Of the last-named place, by far 
the most imi>ortant of the three, Dundee once had the monopoly of the business. 
The total value of the jute-bags exported there, declared to at this consulate, was, 
for the four quarters of the years ending 30th September, 1875, 187G, and 3877, as 
follows : 





Quarter ending — 


Total for the 
year. 


December 31. 


March 31. 


June 30. 


September 30. 


1875 

1876 


.$335,440 19 
23, 053 24 


1137, 960 78 
94,610 65 


$;?,686 01 
267, 886 44 


$11,586 67 
39, 008 90 


$488, 673 65 
424, 559 23 


Increase 






264,200 43 


27,422 23 




Decrease 

1876 

1877 


312, 385 95 


43,350 13 


64, 114 42 


. 




23, 053 24 
21,450 71 


94, 610 65 
6,229 23 


287, 886 44 
2, 835 33 


39, 008 90 
1,350 99 


424, 559 23 
31, 872 28 


Iiicrease 












Decrease 

Decrease in 1876 


1,590 53 


83,381 42 


265,051 11 


37,657 91 


392, 686 97 
64,114 42 






Total decrease in t/he two vears 1876 and 1877.. 




456,801 39 











" This demonstrates that at the moment Dundee has entirely lost control of 
this splendid outlet for its goods. Of course some allowance for this almost incred- 
ible decrease may be attributed to the encouragement the San Francisco sack- 
sowers have in the difference of 10 per cent, in the tariff in favor of burlaps, which 
they make into bags on the spot. But even in this way Dundee is not compen- 
sated for the serious loss (as shown by this statement) it has sustained, as the bag- 
makers get large parcels of the cloth they use from Calcutta, which source, it is 
beyond question, must now be supplying California, Oregon, and the Western 
States with millions of bags and thousands of i)ieces of cloth yearly which for- 
merly came from this quarter." 

To give an idea of the connection Dundee has with the United States in the 
jute trade, I submit an " extract of my detailed statement of exports from this 
Consular district to the United States for the four quarters of the year ending 



630 U. S Consul McBougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 

30th September, 1877," which shows a marked decrease during that period. I 
have also added the decrease for 1876, which makes an enormous falling-oif in 
just two years. I may mention that four-fifths of the total valuation is for jute 
goods of every sort, but generally of a coarse quality. 

Abstract. 





Quarter ending — 


Total for tlie 
year. 




December 31. 


March 31. 


June 30. 


September 30. 


Total at Dundee for 
1877 

Total at Aberdeen 
for 1877 


$1,037,811 87 
49, 169 40 


$1, 175, 239 41 
30, 506 93 


$1,154,566 08 
38,134 89 


|1, 302, 977 08 
37, 182 46 


$4,670,594 44 
154, 993 68 


Total from district 
for 1877 

Total from district 
for 1876 


1,083,981 27 
1,101,294 35 


1,205,746 34 
1,459,987 48 


1,192,700 97 
1,782,689 49 


1, 340, 159 54 
1, 129, 172 38 


4,825,588 12 
5, 473, 143 70 


Increase 








210,987 16 


' 647,555 58 
526,769 67 


Decrease 


14,313 08 


254,241 14 


589, 988 52 




Decrease in 187 


6 










Total decrease in the two vears 1876 niid 187^ 




1,174,325 25 











" I have also, at this point, to note the fact that a large proportion of the 
total value of these exports is for goods (burlaps principally) sent to the United 
States on consignment instead of on actual sale. This has come about by the 
American firms who are represented here by their own houses or agents declining 
to purchase. Maniifacturers have thereby been compelled to ship their merchan- 
dise themselves to keep their establishments moving and from accpiiriug stock. 
Business being thus forced has had a disastrous effect on prices in the United 
States, and the account sales have advised in these cases a wide discrepancy 
between the prices realized and the actual cost thereof" 

By again tmuiug to the imijortatioii of jute into Dundee from 1861 to 1877 
(former statement left off at 18G0) a glance at the underuoted statement will show 
how the trade has developed in these years. 



U. S Consul 3IcDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 631 



Total quantity of jute imported into Dtindee. 





te • 

2? 

il 


h 
o 

d . 

_P o 

B 
O 

O 


Eail way (Liver- 
pool and Glas- 
gow). 


o 


1861 


Tms. 
468 
402 

6,997 
12, 173 
11,425 

4,507 
10, 156 

5,437 
27,844 
30, 537 
66, 872 
91, 276 
102, 133 
81, 746 
92, 844 
95, 715 
72, 120 


Tons. 
17, 456 

19, 423 
25, 278 
23, 371 
43, 912 
28,784 

36, 546 
35, 069 
36, 347 
43, 341 
27, 736 
32, 390 

37, 790 
33, 190 

20, 067 

21, 824 
15, 921 


Tons. 
17, 792 
18, 452 
14,710 

20, 860 

16, 365 

18, 888 

16,970 

17, 968 

18, 188 

7,862 

8,236 

3, 524 

3, 227 

2, 439 

1,019 

1, 032 

114 


Tons. 

35, 716 

38,277 

46, 983 

56, 404 

71, 702 

52, 179 

63, 672 

58, 474 

82, 379 

81, 740 

102, 844 

127, 190 

143, 150 

117, 375 

113,930 

118, 571 

88, 155 


1862 


1863 . . . 


1864 . 


1865 


1866 


1867 


1868 


1869 


1870 


1871 


1872 


1873 


1874 


1875 


1876 


1877 (from 1st January to 31st October, 1877) 



This statement shows that the jute imported into Dundee reached the maxi- 
mum in 1873. It also shows that the quantity brought direct from Calcutta is 
considerably under the amount brought iu 1873, in the years 1874, 1875, and 1876. 

The total arrivals of vessels from Calcutta at Dundee from the 1st January 
to 1st October, of this year (1877), were 44 ships, bringing 60,171 tons jute, equal 
to 401,802 bales. The arrivals during the same period in 1876 were 57 ships, bring- 
ing 78,921 tons jute, equal to 527,046 bales, exhibiting a falling off on the nine 
mouths' arrivals of 13 ships, bringing 18,750 tons jute, equal to 125,244 bales. 
Nor is there any prospect of the decrease being made up during the three months 
of the year still to run. From latest advices, I find that there are at sea bound to 
Dundee 3 jute vessels of 4,311 tons, and loading or chartered at Calcutta 23 of 
31,324 tons. The whole of the vessels at sea are likely to arrive before December 
31. Of the ships chartered or loading, 3 steamships of 3,847 register tons and 
5,995 tons gross, will also iu all probability arrive before the close of the year. 
The total jirobable arrivals direct from Calcutta for 1877 may, therefore, be set 
down at 50 ships of 08,329 tons register. 

Taking the vessels arrived, sailed, and chartered, and comparing them with 
last year, they stand thus : 1876, 90 ships of 126,139 tons ; 1877, 70 ships of 95,806 



632 U. S. Consul McBougaWs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 



tons ; decrease, 20 ships of 30,333 tons. This not only speaks of a bad current 
year, but promises very poorly for 1878. 

It is impossible to get the total yards of jute manufactures or the number of 
jute bags made that are sent from Dundee, the returns of the Harbor Board and 
Eailway comi^anies beiug so kept that they only show the total of all manufac- 
tures, including linen and jute manufactures of every kind, and yarns, bags, &c. 
But the extent and importance of the trade can be judged from the following 
tables, compiled by me from the British Board of Trade returns and other official 
statements. The year 1854 is the tirst year jute is given as an article of import 
into the United Kingdom in the above-mentioned returns. Before that time it 
was included among " Hemp and other like substances." The quantity of jute 
exported was not given till 1861. For comparison, I give the quantity of jute 
imported into Dundee, the amounts being the same as in the preceding tables, 
but only changed into hundredweights to suit these Tables. 





1854. 


1855. 1856. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
real value. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
real value. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
real value. 


Total quantity and value of the jute im- 
ported into the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of j ute imported into Dun- 
dee, consumed there and in the district. 

Balance left for consumption elsewhere 


Cwts. 
481, 733 
331, 800 


£553, 993 


CwU. 
539, 297 
517, 880 


£447, 107 


Cwts. 
731, 093 
62 ', 020 


£012, 290 








149, 933 




21, 417 




110, 473 














1857. 


1858. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
real value. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
real value. 


Total quantity and value of the jute imported into the United 


Cwts. 
018, 833 
48G, 840 


£04G, 350 


CwU. 
738, 085 
601, 720 


£019, 008 


Total (juantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district 


Bal.ance left for consumption elsewhere < 




131, 993 




136, 305 












1859. 


1860. 


Qutmtity. 


Computed 
real value. 


Q"-tity. ^z^:iii 


Total quantity and value of the jute im 
Kinjidoni . . 


ported into the United 


Cwts. 
1, 001, 288 

708 100 


£790, 383 


Cw's. 
810, 787 
73fl, 300 


£600, 913 


Total quantity of jute imported into 13 
and in the district 


undee, consumed there 










Balance left fur consumption olsc-wlicn^ i 


)r c\port 


293, 188 




77, 487 








1 



U. S Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 633 



Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 
Kingdom 

Total quantity and value of jnte exported from the United 
Kingdom 



Leaving in the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district 

Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 
Kingdom, or for export next year 



1861. 



Quantity. Comjnvted 



Cwts. 
904, 092 
86, 971 



817, 121 
714, 320 



102, 801 



£709, 961 
68, 490 



1862. 



Quantity. C-fue.^l 



Cwts. 
963, 774 
114, 399 



£930,634 
110, 580 



641, 471 



849, 375 
705, 540 



820, 048 



83, 835 



Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 
Kingdom 

Total quantity and valne of jute exported from the United 
Kingdom 



Leaving in the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district 



Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 
Kingdom, or for export next year 



1863. 



Quantity. Computed 



CwU. 
1, 223, 033 
165, 634 



1, 057, 399 
939, 660 



117, 739 



£1, 525, 996 
206, 352 



1,319,644 



1864. 



Quantity. Comj,uted 



Cwts. 
2, 024, 537 
270, 090 



1, 754, 447 
1, 128, 080 



£2, 192, 498 
292, 598 



1, 899, 900 



626, 367 



1865. 



Quantity. ^Zfue'"" 



Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 
Kingdom 

Total quantity aud value of jute exported from the United 
Kingdom 



Leaving in the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district 



Cwts. 
2, 108, 942 
417, 981 



1, 690, 961 
1, 434, 040 



Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 
Kingdom, or for export next year 



256, 921 



£1, 774, 992 
351, 801 



1866. 



Quantity. Com^p^uted 



Cwts. 
1, 625, 903 
416, 352 



£1, 476, 244 
378,186 



1, 423, 191 



1, 209, 551 1, 098, 058 
1,043,580 



165, 971 



Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 
Kingdom 

Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United 
Kingdom 



1867. 



Quantity. Computed 



Cwts. 
1, 582, 611 
366, 793 



Leaving iu the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and iu th(^ district 



1, 215, 818 
1, 273, 440 



Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 
Kingdom, or for export next year 



*57, 622 



£1,414,321 
327, 057 



1868. 



Quantity. Computed 



Cwts. 
2, 182, 521 
415,206 



1, 087, 264 1, 707, 255 
1,169,480 



597, 775 



£1, 936, 230 
368, 549 



1, 5G7, 681 



* Taken from previous year's stock left. 



634 U. S. Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 





1869. 


1870. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
value. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
value. 


Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 
Kingdom 

Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United 
Kingdom . ...... 


Cwts. 
2, 467, 817 
413, 952 


S.2, 143, 100 
3.18 7.->8 


Cwts. 
2, 370, 690 
425, 712 


S.2, 326, 910 
416, 843 


Leavin'' in the United Kingdom * 




2, 053, 805 
1, 647, 580 


1, 784, 342 


1, 950, 978 
1, 634, 800 


1, 910, 067 


Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district . . 


Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 
"Kin^'loni^ nr for Axpnrt jlOTt ye.ar 






406, 285 




316, 178 












1871. 


1872. 


Quantity. 


Computed 
value. 


Quiintity. 


Declared 
value. 


Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 


Cwts. 
3, 454, 120 

575, 177 


£3, 729, 735 
650, 431 


Cwts. 
4, 041, 018 
755, 120 


£3. 954, 698 
724, 659 


Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United 
Kino'dom 


Leaving in the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 


2, 878, 943 
2, 056, 880 


3, 079, 304 


3, 285, 898 
2, 543, 800 


3, 230, 039 


Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 

7\in<^'lf^m or tor i^'vpnrt Tievt yppr 






822, 063 




742, 098 










1873. 


1874. 


Quantity. 


Declared 
value. 


Quantity. 


Declared 
valiio. 


Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 

Kingdom 

Total quantity and value of jute exported from the United 


Cii-ts. 
4, 624, 918 
790, 344 


£3, 619, 989 
649, 880 


CwU. 
4, 270, 164 
71C, 631 


£3, 553, 179 
603, 619 


Leaving in the United Kingdom 

Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district 


3, 834, 574 
2, 863, 000 


2, 970, 109 


3, 553, 533 
2, 347, 500 


2, 949, 560 


Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 

Tv ipgdoTii, Ol' for OTnort. yievt yen^' 






971, 574 




1, 206, f 33 












1875. 


1876. 


Quantity. 


Declared 
value. 


Quantity. 


Decliired 
value. 


Total quantity and value of jute imported into the United 


Cwts. 
3,410,617 £2,575,512 
1, 050, 389 798, 148 


CwU. 
3,825,259 
933, 667 


£2, 804, 597 
704, 904 


Total "quantity and value of juto exported from the United 
Kingdom 


Leaving in the United Kingdcmi 


2 366 228 1.777.366 


2,891,592 
2, 371, 420 


2, 099, 693 


Total quantity of jute imported into Dundee, consumed there 
and in the district 


2, 278, 600 




Balance left for consumption in other places of the United 
Kingdom, or for export next year 


. .. 




87, 628 




520, 172 











TJ 8. Consul McDougaWs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 635 
Quantity and value of Jute manufactures exported from the United Kingdom. 



Year. 



1861. 
1862. 



Yarn. 



Quautity. 



Pounds. 
7, 047, 217 
G, G15, 882 

1863 7,391,327 

1864 I 5,497,603 

1865. 4,944,230 

1866 7,761, .391 

1867 7,520,911 

1868 8,108.101 

1869 8,041,082 

1870 12,669,948 

1871 13,710,957 

1872 12,715,969 

1873 12,263,805 

1874 15,724,988 

1875 15,942,618 

1876 16,709.239 



Declai'ed 
value. 



£85,126 
96, 152 
154,618 
114,503 
82, 141 
128, 704 
117, 028 
126, 045 
126, 691 
196, 465 
262, 057 
261,239 
206, 521 
245, 784 
225, 836 
226, 813 



Mauufactures. 



Quail tit j\ 



Yards. 

6, 519, 253 

6, 959, 189 

11, 034, 412 

13, 910, 717 

15, 400, 459 

19, 394, 926 

26, 745, 187 

43,081,332 

50, l'.i7, 853 

51,920,808 

62, 310, 463 

84, 452, 457 

95, 935, 108 

112,810,415 

101,105,579 

120, 813, 966 



Declared 
value. 



£127,031 

133, 149 

243, 379 

356,764 

311,540 

361,857 

455, 396 

706, 936 

742, 801 

789, 6.57 

1,026,759 

1,486,484 

1,590,850 

1,679,766 

1,404,997 

1,5.58,256 



Bags. 



Quantity. 



Declared 
value. 



Dozens. 

642, 848 

802, 095 

894. 436 

971,871 

1,137,862 

1,290,677 

1,675,321 

2, 144, 593 

2, 375, 865 

2, 477, 334 

2, 897, 676 

3, 685, 092 
4,430,418 
4,700,759 
3, 680, 073 
4,020,211 



£307, 583 

388, 724 

555, 282 

749, 422 

696, 291 

681,445 

751,369 

860, 543 

946, 378 

913, 642 

1,206,621 

1,627,026 

1,913,153 

1,750,002 

1,264,308 

1,211,728 



By far the largest proportion of these exports are mauufactured in Dundee 
and district, and it must be remembered that these figures do not include the 
home-trade consurajition, which is very large indeed. 

The next table gives an estimate of the jute consumption in manufacture in 

Dundee alone in the years named : 

Ton.s. 

In 1836 300 

In 184G 9, 200 

In 1856 31, 000 

In 1866 50,000 

In 1873 . . 139, 793 

The great expan.sion of the jute trade has benefited the varied interests of 
this town, the harbor finances being considerably augmented within the last ten 
years by the direct importation of jute during that period. The increased rev- 
enue thus derived has i^laced the Harbor-Commissioners in a position to expend a 
large amount of money in making the docks and the entrance thereto suitable 
for the entry of the largest vessels into this port, and in building warehou.ses 
and providing every facility for the discharge of the jute cargoes ; in fact, every- 
thing has been done to encourage this direct trade with India. The statement 
below furnishes evidence that the improvements on the harbor and the am])le 



f)36 U. S. Consul McDougaWs Beport on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 



dock accommodation which has been opened up in late years have had a pow- 
erful influence in fostering the direct importation of jute, which took a sudden 
start in 1863, the effect indubitably of the healthy state of the trade in that 
year. I may mention here that all the American vessels that come into this port 

bring jute cargoes : 

Jute vessels arrived in Dundee, 



Year. 


Number of 
vessels. 


Registered 
tonnage. 


Bales. 


1860 


1 

1 
1 

8 
15 

10 
5 

10 
5 

28 
26 
57 

77 
81 

62 
62 
63 
44 




850 


1861. 


576 
576 

7,778 
12, 735 
11,489 

4,990 
11,080 

5, 900 
£9. 552 
30, 317 
69, 690 
94, 450 
101,446 

77,401 
83, 252 
87, 540 
60, 171 


1862 




1803 




1864 




1865 




1866 




1867 




1868 

1869 






1870 


207, 208 
473, 097 
649, 677 
709, 871 

523, 197 
573, 230 
582, 249 
401,802 


1871 


1872 


1873 

1874 


1875 


1870 


1877 (to September 3) 





As showing how much the harbor revenue has increased by the wise policy 
referred to adopted by the commissioners, I submit tliis list : 

Harbor dues of Dundee, Scotland. 

In 1821 £6,000 

In 1841 18,443 

In 1858 25,420 

In 1868 32,321 

In 1873 44,000 

In 1875 45,234 

The next two statements show the increase in ])opulation and value rent of 
real property in Dundee in the years given, chiefly the result of the great develop- 
ment of the jute trade : 



U. S. Consul McDougalVs Report on Oils and Jute at Dundee. 637 

The facts and figures I have given clearly indicate that the jute trade within 
the last thirtj^ or forty years has advanced to be a most valuable branch of in- 
dustry in this country, and also that this trade has contributed not a little to the 
commercial importance of the nation. It has been shown that the trade has been 
stagnant here for the past three years, but it is thought at last the prospects of 
the trade are beginning to look brighter ; prices Jire better and firm, inquiries 
having been more active during the last month. It is averred, however, that this 
improvement is not tangible, but created by speculation on the market, and that 
this fictitious demand will likely soon pass over and leave the business as hfeless 
as before. This belief, however, is not universal, as one small jute work which 
has been stopped has been started again last week, and it is rumored that portions 
of the idle machinery in the jute factories that are working have been recently 
set agoing. 

Advices from America of the restoration of mercantile confidence and sound 
trade, it is believed, will be the commencement of good trade for Dnndee, seeing 
the connection it has with the United States, and this is adduced as a reason for 
setting the closed works and idle machinery again in motion. I trust, for the 
mutual welfare of both countries, these hopes may be fully realized. 
I am, sir, your obedient servant, 

MATTHEW McDOUGALL, 

Consul. 

Hon. F. W. Seward, 

Assistant Secretary of State, Washington, D. G. 



Il^DEX. 



» 



r 



Agloo, seal, 137, 151, 152, 169. 

Af,-Joo-l-a (Crozier), 108, 255, 257, 397, 406, 415, 
420,589-594,606. 

Ak-koo-lee (Committee Bay), sea of, 2.52, 264, 
316, 383. 

Allen, William. Lelter to Thomas Penn for the 
Philadelphia Arctic Exploration of 17.52, xli, 
xlii. 

American Expeditions for the Northwest Pas- 
sage, xxxix-xlv ; for the relief of Franklin, 
xiii, xxxi, xxxiv. 

Amherst Island visited, 349. 

Amitoke, Hall's visit to, 299. 

Amusements, Innnit, 95, 96, 218. 

Angell, B., invites Hall to lecture, 24. 

Ankooting practiced, 63, 82, 92, 101, 102, 112, 117, 
144, 188, 242-244, 248, 260, 282, 303, 363, 591, 
601. 

Andromeda Tetragona, 65, 178, 426. 

Antoine hired hy Hall, 325; discharged, 362. 

Anthony, Hon. H. B., invites Hallto lecture, 24. 

Ar-cla, a strange animal reported, 105. 

Arctic authorities. Tables of 1818-1860, xlvi-1. 

Argo, the voyages of, in 17,53 and 1754, xxxix- 
xliii. 

Ar-mou, 63, 64, 84, 99, 105, 142, 208, 214, 224 ; his 
map, 225; 238. 

Jr-ioo-a, 63, 86, 99, 101, 105, 156, 167; his death, 
215. 

Ar-tung-iin, 301; hung by his son, 365; conver- 
sations with, 598-605. 

Ar-row-tars, 135. 

Augusta Island, 388. 

Auroras, 83, 131, 167, 204, 229-233, 366. 

Bache, A. D., Superintendent U. S. Coast Sur- 
vey. Letter to Hall quoted, 35; 41. 
Bafltin's, W., discoveries discredited, xxxviii. 



Baker, Captain, 319. 

Barrow, Sir John, on the value of Arctic ex- 
plorations, xxxvi. 

Barrow's, Mr. .John, letter to Hall, 13. 

Bayne, Peter, hired by Hall, 314; 325. 

Bartlett, Hon. .J. E., invites Hall to lecture, 24. 

Beacon Hill, records deposited at, 237, 268, 280, 
287, 318, 325, 424. 

Bears, Polar, captured, CO-55, 76 ; tracks of, 89, 
157 ; Ou-e la's stories of, 104, 142; traditional 
story of, 240; shot by Joe and Hall on 
Whale Point, 430. 

Bechcr, A. B., Commander, R. N., letter, 11,13. 

Beekman, J. W., assists Hall, 41. 

Biglow, John, assists Hall, 38. 

Bishop, Hon. R. M., indorses Hall's appeal, 

XXV. 

Bliss &. Co. assist Hall, 41. 

Blunt, Messrs., assist Hall, 41. 

Bolby, Mr. .John, takes Joe and Hannah to 
England, 443. 

Boston, reported voyage from, for Northwest 
Passage in 1639, xliv. 

Brevoort, J. C, loans his correspondence with 
Hall, xii ; loans Hall his books, 14 ; assists 
Hall, 41 ; estimate of Hall's character, 432. 

Brevoort River, 342. 

Bryan, R. W. D., Assistant in preparation of 
the Narrative; prepares Hall's astronomical 
observations, 63, 452 ; prepares Hall's mete- 
orological journal, 479. 

Budington, Capt. James, rescues the Resolute, 

XXX. 

Budington, Capt. S. O., takes charge of Ebier- 
bing andToo-koo-li-too, 4 ; encourages Hall, 
27 ; brings Eud-lup-pa-mn-nc and Ou-sc-gong 
to the United States, 447. 

Burr, A. W.. assists Hall. 41. 

639 



640 



INDEX. 



Cape Euglcfiold, 348, 349. 

Cape Frigid, 207. 

Cape Fullerton, ISJ. 

Cape Lady Pelly. 252, 2f)2, 264, 316, 383. 

Cape Weyntou, 2f,.'3, 261, 313, 318, 384, 411. 

Chapell, E. H., of New Loudon, receives Hall's 

plans, 28; letter to Hall on -whaling, 34; 

gives free passage on board the Monticello, 

42. 
Chapel, Capt. C. A., comniauds the Monticello, 

43; Hall's letter to, 61, 76,107, 115; letter 

to Hall, lid. 
Chapel, Capt. H. Y., conveys Hall to Whale 

Point, 59. 
Chase, Hon. S. P., indorses Hall's appeal 

XXV. 

Chester, H. C, mate of the Monticello, 50; 
lands Hall at Whale Point, 59. 

Christie Lake, 241, 267, 315, 380. 

Chronometers, 41, 142, 238, 279, 306 ; correction 
of, 380-382; 38.5. 

Cliff at Now-yaru Harbor, tradition in regard 
to, 222. 

Coast Survey, U. S.^ loans a sextant and dip- 
circle, 41. 

Coldeu, Cadwalader, letter from Dr. Franklin 
for the Argo, 1753, xxxix. 

Cold intense, 106, 116, 127, 131, 140, 144, 146, 148, 
150, 157, 161, 207, 295. 

Coleman, Pat, hired, 325 ; shot by Hall, 360. 

Collinson, Admiral R., E. N., his "Three Voy- 
ages of Frobisher," 12. 

Congress of U. S. purchase Hall's manuscripts, 
xi. 

Cooper, Peter, assists Hall, 41. 

Copp, J. J., of Groton, 10, 445, 448; presents 
Hall's geological collections to Amherst Col- 
lege, 454. 

Cracroft, Miss Sophia, receives a Franklin relic 
from Morison & Brown, N. Y., in 1878, xxiii ; 
ret urns books loaned by Hall to Lady Frank- 
lin, 5H7. 

Crane, William, jr., his visit to Hall from the 
Era, 1867, 433. 

Crozier, Capt. F. R. M. (A/j-loo-ka), E. N., xiv, 
xxviii, xxxiii, xxxiv, 108,255-257,397,406, 
415, 420, 589-594, 606. 

Crozier Eiver visited, 341. 

Cud-lar-go's tombstone at Groton, 446. 

Dall, W. H., his application of the terms In- 
nnits, Eskimos, and Orarians, 62, 448. 



Daly, Judge C. P., president American Geo- 
graphical Society, states the results of ex- 
plorations for Northwest Passage, xxxiii ; 
assists Hall, 37; letter to, from Hall, 367. 

D6bri« and rocks on the ice. Hall's observations 
of, compared with Parry's, 193-198. 

De Haven, Lieutenant, U. S. N., expedition, xiii, 

XXX. 

Dennison, Hon. W., indorses Hall's appeal, xxv. 

Depot Island, 56. 

Diligence, the voyage of, from Virginia for 

Northwest Passage in 1772, xliv. 
Dillon, Capt. P., presents 'La Perouse's relics 

to Charles X, 5. 
Dogs, Eskimo, 63, 86, 115, 122, 136, 163, 173, 184, 

209, 226, 239, 247, 250, 251, 253, 254, 279, 295, 

299, 307, 336, 357, 379, 413. 
Donations, list of, acknowledged by Hall be- 
fore sailing in 1864, 44. 
Ducks, the Innuit plan to capture, 103 ; largo 

flocks, 133, 351. 
Dyer, E., ex-governor of Ehode Island, invites 

Hall to lecture, 24. 

Earthquake, supposed, 144. 

Ebierbing (Joe) returns with Hall from his first 
expedition, 4 ; sails from New Loudon, 42 ; 
shoots two polar bears, 51-53; meets the 
Inuuits, 62 ; builds Hall's igloo, 72 ; shaves 
Hall, 75; is ankooted, 82, 92 ; kills a walrus, 
103 ; shoots a seal, 129, 145 ; makes a speech, 
149; kills a walrus, 151; watches over a 
seal-hole, 154 ; kills a seal and walrus, 156 ; 
chases a bear, 157 ; shoots an ook-gook, 161 ; 
snow-blind, 172; hunts with Hall, 203; goes 
with Hall to Colvile Bay, 237; rewards the 
augeko, 248; buries his child, 265; huuts 
t he deer, 286 ; goes with Hall to Cape Weyn- 
tou, 314; to Melville Peninsula, 335; digs 
for the cache, 344 ; goes toward King Will- 
iam's Land, 378 ; shoots a bear, 429 ; notes 
of his life, 441-44(). 

Kik-oo-ar-choo (Jerry), 332, 378, 408. 

Eider-ducks, flocks of, in the Welcome, 133, 151. 

Egg.aet & Son assist Hall, 41. 

Egleston, T., report on Hall's geological collec- 
tions, 10. 

Emerson, Prof. B. K., Amherst College, discus- 
sion of Hall's geological collection, 10; Ap- 
l)endix HI, 553-583. 

E-nook-shoo-lik, encampment at, 274,2711. 

Ermine, 343. 



INDEX. 



641 



Erk-tu-a's superstition, 110 ; traditiou of Oo-oo- 
took oil Parry's ship, 112. 

E-vit-8hung beats the clogs, 183 ; consults " Sid- 
ney " for the safety of her children, 188. 

Explorations for the Northwest Passage, tables 
of English and American, xxvi-xxviii; for 
the relief of Franklin, xxix-xxxii ; results, 
xxxiii, xxxviii. 

Feasts, Innnit, 80, 90, 129, 214, 216, 369, 425, 428. 

Field, C.W., Hall's telegram to, 4 ; assists Hall, 
41. 

Fisher, Captain, 428. 

Floats used by Ou-c-la in caxituring a whale, 191. 

"Fool's gold," Frobisher, 18. 

Fox, Arctic, caught in his own trap, 88, 374. 

Fox Channel, Oong-er-luk's sketch of, 354. 

Fort Hope of Dr. Eae, Hall arrives at, 192 ; 212, 
223, 226. 

Franklin, Sir John, voyage in the Trent, xxvi ; 
land expeditions, xxvii ; expedition of 1845, 
xxviii ; death on the Erebus, (McClintock's 
record, ) xxxiii ; relics of, xxiii ; monument 
in Waterloo Place, xxxiii ; in Westminster 
Abbey, xxxiv. 

Franklin, Lady, desires Hall to go a third time 
for the records, xvi ; correspondence with 
Hall through Mr. Grinnell in 1869, xvii-xxiii ; 
in 1865,283; monument erected by her in 
Westminster Abbey, xxxiv. 

Franklin, Dr. Benjamin, letter to Cadwallader 
Golden on the expedition of 1753 in the 
Argo, xxxix. 

Frobisher, Sir Martin, sails to discover North- 
west Passage, 7 ; Hall's abstract of his voy- 
ages, 15-17 ; narrative of his voyages by 
Collinsou, 12. 

Frozen Strait of Middleton thought by Hall to 
be never frozen, 185. 

Furs, selection of, by the women first, 69. 

Fury and Hecla Strait visited, 331-353. 

Gales, 66, 79, 94, 127, 131, 136, 145, 150, 161, 176, 
206, 238, 314, 324, 337, 379. 

Game abundant, 178 ; on the journey from King 
William's Land, 412. 

Geographical Society, American, Hall's paper 
read before, 8; letter to the President of, 
367. 

Geograxjhical Society, Eoyal, of London, re- 
ceives relics from Hall, 10 ; paper read be- 
fore, 13. 

Geological collections from Hall's first expedi- 
S. Ex. 27 41 



Geological collections — Continued. 

tion donated to New York Lyceum, reported 
upon by Stevens and Egleston, 10; donated 
to Amherst College and discussed by Pro- 
fessor Emerson, Appendix III. 

Gifi'ord Eiver visited, 352. 

Greenwood, Miles, receives a telegram j&om 
Hall, 4. 

Grinnell, H. , loans his correspondence, xii ; let- 
ter from Lady Franklin, xvii-xxi ; from 
Hall, xxi ; his expeditions under De Haven 
and Kane, xxx, xxxi ; states the value of 
Arctic explorations, xxxvii ; telegram from 
Hall, 4; interview with Hall, 26-28; sends 
supplies to him, 42, 283, 327. 

Grinnell Lake, 342, 395. 

Groton, Conn., burial-place of Eskimos, 447. 

Hall, Charles Francis, his three expeditious, xi ; 
purchase of his manuscripts by the Navy 
Department, xi ; resolution of U. S. Senate, 
xii ; his expeditions compared, xiii ; mo- 
tives for the first two expeditions, xvi ; let- 
ter from Lady Franklin to Mr. Grinnell, 
xvii-xxi; replies, xxi-xxiii; appeal and 
lecture, 1860, xxiv ; notes of early voyages, 
xxxix-xlv ; his Arctic authorities, xlvi-1. 

Eetums from his first expedition, 4 ; pro- 
poses to visit England, 5 ; abstract of La 
Perouse's voyage, 5, 6 ; again studies Arctic 
authorities, 8; reads a paper before the 
American Geographical Society, New York. 
8 ; sends Frobisher relics to England, 8 ; cor- 
responds with Barrow, Becher, and Mark- 
ham, 11 ; his paper read at a meeting of the 
Eoyal Geographical Society, Loudon, 13; 
abstract of the Frobisher expeditions, 15-17. 

Lectures for his second expedition, 23-25 ; 
asks aid from Congress, 25 ; interview with 
Mr. Henry Grinnc]], 26; private notes, 26; 
plans submitted to Grinnell and Chapell, 
28-32; correspondence about whaling, 34; 
letter to Professor Bache, 35 ; defers his voy- 
age, 38 ; renews his appeal, 39 ; receives aid, 
41 ; sails from New London, 42. 

Sails from St. John's, 46 ; aids in captur- 
ing two polar bears, 50-54 ; lauds at Depot 
Island, 56; hires Eudolph, 57; arrives at 
Whale Point, 59 ; makes a cache, 60 ; meets 
the Innnits, 62 ; second encampment, 63 ; 
talks with natives about Franklin, 64; re- 
lieves the suflciiiig, 66, 80 ; moves his tiipik, 
67 ; goes into winter quarters, 75. 



642 



INDEX. 



Hall, Charles Frauds — Continued. 

Proposes his plans to the people, 81 ; ac- 
customs himself to luuuit customs and food, 
8-2; builds a magnetic observatory, 84; finds 
his ink frozen, 85 ; makes his first sledge trips 
with the Innuits, 86, 89, 133 ; joins in their 
feasts, 80, 90, 129, 428, 432 ; hunts a seal, 93 ; 
moves to the walrus grounds, 100 ; is an- 
kooted, 102 ; discharges Rudolph, 105 ; cor- 
rects his dates, 114 ; letter to Capt. E. A. 
Chapel, 107 ; receives supplies from the 
whalers, 115, 325 ; joins in a wali-us-hunt, 
119-123. 

Speech on New Year's Day, 130; visits 
the Monti cello, 132 ; experiments with freez- 
ing mercury, 146 ; writes wifji great diffi- 
culty, 148, 150; goes out sealing, 152; suf- 
fers for food, 155; renews his supplies, 156; 
proposes to survey the coast, 158; broken 
health, 159 ; arrives at the Wager, 164. 

Harpoons a seal, 168; arrives at Re- 
pulse Bay, 177 ; visits the whaler Black 
Eagle, 181 ; the Ansel Gibbs, 189 ; capt- 
ures a whale, 190 ; encamps at Fort Hope, 
192 ; his notes on debris found on the ice, 
193-198. 

Hunts Ihe deer, 202; severe exposures, 
204-209 ; his daily subsistence, 211 ; pre- 
pares fur elothiug, 213 ; dresses entirely in 
furs, 213 ; builds his own igloo, 214 ; life at 
Now-yarn, 216-221 ; returns to Fort Hope, 
223; his control of Ar-mou and of the In- 
nuits, 224, 432; meteorological notes during 
the winter, 227-231. 

First advance toward King William's 
Land, 237 ; depositshis records, 241 ; arrives 
at the Sea of Ak-koo-lec, 252 ; meets Pelly 
Bay men, 255 ; returns to Repulse Bay, 261 ; 
buries Too-koo-li-too's babe, 266; journal 
entry on his return, 268. 

Determines to hire Avhito men for a sec- 
ond advance, 260-274 ; meets Pelly Bay men 
again, 275; furthernewsof Franklin's party, 
27() ; annoyances, 277 : begins survey of Re- 
])ulsc. Bay, 279 ; visits the Pioneer and An- 
sell (iibbs, 281; assists the whalers, 285; 
asks their help for men and dogs, 285 ; prc- 
])are8 and ships his whalebone, 287 ; en- 
camps near the ships, 289 ; is refused a team 
of dogs, 290. 

Begins a journey to Ig-loo-lik, 295 ; suffer- 
ings, 297-300 ; buys a team, 302; arrives at 



Hall, Charles Francis — Continued. 

Repulse Bay, 309; is refused leave to hire 
men, 309. 

Visits his cache at Cape Weynton, 313 ; 
makes a new cache, 318 ; goes on a musk-ox 
hunt,319; makespurchases from the whalers, 
323; goes into winter quarters, 325; hires 
five white men, 326. 

Journey to the Strait of Fury and Hecla, 
336 ; arrives on the northwest side of Mel- 
ville Peninsula, 342 ; discovers a new island, 
343 ; finds a monument and a tenting- place 
of white men, 344-340; visits Amherst Isl- 
and, 349; Gilford River, 352; returns to Re- 
pulse Bay, 35() ; shoots a mutineer, 360 ; se- 
cures a whale, 363 ; journey to Lyon's Inlet, 
364; winter quarters at Talloon,368; pre- 
pares pemmiean and ammunition for a final 
sledge journey, 371. 

Pinal journey to King William's Land, 
379 ; arrives at Cape Weynton, 384 ; at Au- 
gusta Island, 388 ; at Simpson's Lake, 394 ; 
at Todd's Island, 400 ; discovers the remains 
of some of Franklin's men, 401-403 ; retui-ns 
to Repulse Bay, 409 ; goes on a musk-ox 
hunt, 413 ; writes to Mr. Grinnell the results 
of his journey to King William's Land, 415; 
recovers his whalebone from the cache, 427 ; 
leaves Repulse Bay, 4~8 ; hunts the bear at 
Whale Point, 429 ; lands at New Bedford, 
430 ; tributes to his work, 431-437 ; astro- 
nomical observations, 451-475 ; meterologi- 
cal observations, 479-550; conversations 
with Innuits, 587-611. 

Harper Brothers assist Hall, 44 ; send the "Arc- 
tic Researches" to Repulse Bay, 283. 

Hayes, Hon. R. B., indorses Hall's appeal, xxv. 

Haviland Bay, encamped on, 187; crossed, 337, 
357, 364. 

Herald, the New York, Hall writes to, 156. 

Hooper Inlet visited, 341, 342. 

Hoppner Inlet visited, 357. 

Igloo, construction of, 72 ; Hall's first, 75 ; lam]), 
75; village, 128; built on sledge jouiiiey, 
134 ; HaU's, at Now-yarn, 214 ; feasting, 220. 

Ig-loo-lik, Hall's journey to, 295-301. 

/«-nooA'-j>oo-5/ie<'-_;"ooA'« account of Franklin's men, 
397 ; map of King William's Laud, 398 ; fur- 
ther account of Franklin's men, 403; fight 
with a musk-ox, 413; interview with Hall, 
419, 60S. 



INDEX. 



643 



Innuits, right use of the terni,G'2; first met, 02; 
division of furs, 09 ; feasts, 80, 90, 309 ; prep- 
aration of fur dresses, 91 ; amusements, 95, 
218, 369 ; superstitions, ^,110, 277, 282, 286, 
322; conversations with, 64, 108; orna- 
ments, 219 ; Hall's control of, 225, 277, 432. 

Iwillik, 64, 95, 227, 324, 364, 369, 424. 

Journal of Commerce, Hall's letters to, 156, 587. 
Jeffries, Captain of the George and Mary, 115. 

Kane, Dr., voyage S., xxx, xxxi. 
Key-low-tik, playing on, 96, 129. 
Ei-as or hjaku of Repulse Bay compared witli 

those of Greenland, 216. 
Kilmer, Captain, 65, 189,285,319. 
King William's Laud (Ei-ki-Uik), first advance 

to, 237 ; return from, 261 ; sledge journey to, 

377 ; return, 409. 
Kin-na-pa-toos, 171; their dogs, 239. 
Knight and Barlow, expedition of, 56. 
Eohhlg and Tiing-nu¥s Franklin relics, 391. 
Eoo-loo-a takes Hall to the cache on Melville 

Peninsula, 341; his report of the white 

men, 596. 
Eok-lee-arvg-vun's relics and stories of Frank- 
lin's men, 255; hung by his son, 277. 
Eom-mong (half tents), 169, 171, 174. 
Eow (walrus hide), 136, 389 ; sled made of, 305, 

307,309. 

Leonard or Lailor, Frank, xxii, 295, 314, 319, 

325, 336, 345, 362. 
La Perouse, expedition of, 5. 
Leach, U. S. Consul, assists Hall, 47. 
Lefferts Marshall assists Hall, 41. 
Lightning and thunder storm, 181 ; Innuit no- 
tions of, 182, 187. 
Lyon's Inlet, journey to, 364. 

Mavi-mark, 128, 226, 245; death, 321. 

Man-liue (rue-i-addies), 246, 373. 

Marble Island, 55, 59, 139, 143. 

Markham, C. R., on the use of oil in the manu- 
facture of jute, 618. 

Marmots (Sixies), 263, 412. 

McCUntock, Sir Leopold F., brings the Frank- 
lin Record from Point Victory, xxxiii ; let- 
ter in regard to Arctic explorations, xxxiv. 

McDongall, U. S. Consul at Dundee ; report of 
the whale fishery and jute, Appendix V, 
619. 

Mercury, experiments with, 146. 



Meteorological Journal, Appendix II, 479-543; 

special observations, 94, 227-231,366. 
Monticello sails from New Loudon, 42 ; from St. 

John's, 48 ; passage through Hudson Straits, 

55. 
Monument found by Hall, with tenting-place, 

on Melville Peninsula, 344-347. 
Morgan, Captain, 283, 285. 
Morison & Brown, expedition for the Franklin 

Records, xxiii. 
Mosquitoes, 75, 322, 426. 
Muktuk relished by Hall, 72, 81, 214, 225, 314. 
Murchison River, 395. 
Musk oxen, 76, 86, 319, 413. 

Nares, Sir George, on Hall's observations. 
Navy Department purchase Hall's manuscripts, 

xi. 
Negus «fe Co. assist Hall, 41. 
Newton, Prof. R. S., M. D. , assists Hall, 41. 
New London, Hall sails from, xiii, 42. 
New Year's Day feast and speech, 128. 
Noodloo's sketch of Murray Maxwell Inlet, 351. 
Noo-wook, 63, 142. 
Nordenskiold's coast-line, xxxix. 
Norton, Silas, 314. 

Norman and Necbarbic Creeks visited, 365. 
North Pole River and Lake, 192, 279. 
Nordhoff, C, assists Hall while preparing his 

"Arctic Researches," 44. 
Now-yam, 214, 221. 
Nu-ker-zhoo (Jack), 63, 105, 152, 168, 378, 394, 421. 

Oog-la-ri-your Island, camped on, 179, 221, 280. 

Oo-glit Islands, 299, 338, 350. 

Oo-oo-took on Parry's ship, 112. 

Ook-gook caught, 161, 181 ; lines made from, 181. 

Ook-joo-Uk (O'Reilly Island), 257, 400, 418. 

Oon-ger-luk's sketch of Fox Channel, 354 ; of Ad- 
miralty Inlet, 356. 

Osborn, Admiral Sherard, the value of Arctic 
exploration, xxxvi. 

Ook-har-loo, 65, 67, 590, 592, 594. 

Ook-har-loo (the son), 99. 

Ok-pas, 49. 

Orarians, use of the term, 62. 

Ou-lig-buck, 66. 

Ou-e-la, the chief of the tribe, 62, 86, 99, 103, 104, 
105, 118, 138, 142, 160, 162, 167, 170, 178, 190, 
225; his map, 278; 300,309,378,394,432. 

Papa-teiv-a goes with Hall to Melville Penin- 
sula, 336 ; sketch of Lyon's Inlet, 364 ; of 
Pond's Bay, 370. 



044 



INDEX. 



Parhelia, 208, 242. 

Parry's flag-staff, place of, visited, 305. 
Petfer Eiver, 401. 
Peto,the,295. 
Petnlarks, 49. 

Pelly Bay natives' accounts of l"^aukliu, 25.'); 
frighten Hall's party, 260. 
Pemiuican, Hall's, 372; Dr. Kichardson's, 372. 
Pingit-ka-lik, 307. 

ritil-ioii-jicr, heights of, 280; monuments, 281. 
I'ike & Son assist Hall, 41. 
Poillon, Messrs., assist Hall, 37. 
Ptarmigan, 71, 76, 210, 341, 412. 
I'luma (Sylvia), 378, 445, 447. 

Quilliam Creek, 341. 

Kae, Dr. John, confirms Hall's statements, 13. 

Rain-storms, 182, 187, 321. 

liefractiou, 179, 207. 

Reindeer (?MA:-too), 63, 70, 7G, 87, 172, 178, 181, 204, 

251,286,319,327,341,413. 
Repulse Bay, arrives at, 171. 
Ross Bay, 296. 

Robinson, Captain, assists Hall, 37. 
Rodman, Maj. W. M., invites Hall tolecture,24. 
Rogers, Captain, assists Hall, 115. 

Salmon, 164, 210, 342, 358, 424. 
Sargent, Hon. A. A. ; resolution in the U. S. Sen- 
ate to preparer a Narrative of Hall's Second 

Exi)edition, xii. 
Saxifrage, the, 178, 426. 
Schwatka, Lieutenant, U. S. A., goes out for the 

Franklin records, xxiii. 
Seals, 49, 90, 93, 145, 149, 152, 1.56, 160, 161, 168, 

170, 171, 172, 279, 303, 352, 396. 
/See-j)««</-tT, careless with his gun, 274; story of 

the monument, 276. 
Sears, President of Brown University, invites 

Hall to lecture, 24. 
Ships Harbor Islands, survey by Hall, 321. 
tihoo-8he-ark-nook, 67, 144 ; death of, 186. 
Sillimau, Professor, invites Hall to lecture, 24. 
Simpson's Lake, 394. 
Sledge journeys, 85, 89, 105, 132, 239, 279, 293, 314, 

336,364,378. 



Sleds, Eskimo, 85, 220, 379. 

Smith, Governor J. Y. , invites Hall to lecture, 24. 

Snow-drifts, appearance of, compared with the 

aurora, 72; difficulty in determining their 

average depth, 227. 
Spermiu. J. S., 325. 
St. John's, N. F., sailed from, 48. 
Stackpole & Bro. assist Hall, 41. 
Stephenson, Capt. R. N., visits Hall's grave, 

437. 
Storrs, Dr. R., invites Hall to lecture, 39. 
Stevens, I. A., assists Hall, 41. 
Stevens, R. P., report on geological collections, 

10, 553. 
Starvation driven off, 149, 156. 

Tagliabue & Co. assist Hall, 41. 

Talloon, 357, 364, 368, 423, 426. 

Tern Island visited, 303. 

Temperatures, 79, 82, 86, 94, 103, 116, 127, 131, 

137, 140, 146, 150, 150, 161,207,267,298,322, 

410, 425. 
Tides in the Welcome, 162. 
Time, how to determine, at the Pole, 141. 
Tu-kee-li-le-ta, 10, 447. 
Too-koo-li-too. (See Ebierbing.) 
Todd's Island visited, 400. 
Tiqriks (skin tents), 65, 69. 
Tyson, Capt. G. E., of the Antelope, 115 ; of the 

Era, 1837, 323. 

Victoria Queen, Hall desires to present the 
Frobishcr relics to, 7 ; Hannah and Joe pre- 
sented to, 443. 

Voyages, early American, for the Northwest Pas- 
sage, xxxis-xlv. 

Wager, the, encamped on, 164. 
Walrus, 50, 76, 103, 118, 151, 156, 325. 
Ward, Augustus, gives Hall a chronometer, 41. 
Welcome, Rowe's, 61; tides in, 162. 
Whales, 65, 190, 286, 363, 428. 
White, Captain, of the Black Eagle, 115. 
Wolves attack dogs, 247 ; tradition of taming, 
239; 290,341. 



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